1997 Subaru Legacy Front Axle Replacement -EricTheCarGuy
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So while I was doing an oil change the other day I found that the axles on my Subaru Legacy were quite loose on their mounts. I thought the easiest thing to start with was to replace the axles and recheck for the condition. I had read somewhere where aftermarket axles had caused a hesitation on acceleration and wondered if my loose axles could be causing that condition for me. Replacing the axles didn't solve the hesitation problem but it did make for some good video on the process. I also hope to go back and see how to set the preload on the carrier bearings, that will be in another video. Till then enjoy this axle installation video.
Stay dirty
ETCG
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Great video. It was instrumental in me getting the job done! To those who find the roll pin as frustrating as I did: If your roll pin doesn't go into the differential and you know you are lined up rotate the axel 180° and you'll be good to go. Take a look at the grooves on your axel and the grooves on differential. You'll find that a "peak" goes through the middle on one side and a "valley" through the middle on the other.
When I was a Subaru tech in the mid to late nineties, we used the female end of a long 1/4 inch extension to hold the roll pin and install it in the axle. Just drop the pin in the cavity, give it a few taps and then finish it of with a non-tapered punch. Great video, I enjoyed it!
Getting ready to do one on my 98 Forester. This is by far the best video on TH-cam for Subaru CV Axle replacement.
How did job go? My forester keeps throwing cv axels....
Still referring back to this 9 years later! Thanks!
Hope to see you back soon!
Thanks Eric. After a two hour wait at the dealership and a $612 quote for the part alone, I went to Auto Zone, bought the CV Axel for $99. An hour later (with a few breaks to revisit your video), and I was up and running. I have a 2012 Forester, so it installs with a "C" spring rather than a pin, simply pry and push.
Eric, last year I sold my 95 Legacy but over the years I have had to change many axles in Subaru's not just due to them being defective but also due to transmission issues. All the steps you show will save people time and aggravation.
I also support a Subaru Rally team and we have this CV axle swap down to about 3 minutes in the pits!!
Thanks for the GREAT tips!
Jeff Lehmann,
Burlington ON
Canada
understand this is old vid,,,
But I appreciate all the videos that you're doing to your 97 Subaru!
Just did this over the weekend with my sons 2002 Subaru Forester, spot on. Thank you so much for this video. Thanks to this video, I went back to the store and bought a punch set to get the pin out and then back in, saving me a trip in the middle of the repair. Love your videos, clear and concise.
The amount of rust underneath these "salt country" vehicles never ceases to amaze me. I have to admit that I am somewhat spoiled, as I have lived in California (where salt is not used on snowy roads) since 1972...prior to that, I lived in Omaha, NE, which IS "salt country", as far as I know.
I currently own 2 (two) 2001 Subaru Foresters, one (the builder, a 148K mile car, with a blown transmission) spent some time in Massachusetts... as there is a "Tufts University" parking sticker on the left rear quarter window. The engine from this Forester went into my '02 Subaru Outback Wagon. That left me with the '01 Forester 'roller', which I had originally planned to sell off.
After driving the Outback for a few months, I decided to sell it, as at 68 years of age, I found it somewhat difficult for me to get in and out of, due to its low stance, and on-the-floor seating. I checked out the Forester 'roller', and found it much easier to get in and out of, and its stance is higher, along with it's seats not being on-the-floor.
The parts car, another '01 Forester is a salvage-titled car, having been hit hard in the right rear corner, knocking the tailgate and it's opening out of whack. The parts car came complete, I bought it and drove it home from San Francisco, before plucking its 92,000 mile drive train and installing in into the 'builder' '01 Forester.
"Creeping" around under both Foresters during the transition really brought home the difference between the two vehicle's underside conditions as a result of the winter environments which they spent most of their lives in.
I'm getting ready to do this to my '97 Legacy Outback. Unfortunately my barn floor is dirt, so I have been stacking up on clean cardboard to make it less gritty. Great information. I hope mine goes as smoothly as yours did.
Great video I was going to take the subi to the shop to get replaced but after seeing the video one time I replaced mine and works great the differential was nice and tight and everything was a breeze. thanks
Me Too. Just changed it today. Great Right?
I'll change it in two weeks 👍
09Mrsubaru same here aren't subaru and eric great people making these things easy
I know this video is old but I have a 1997 Subaru legacy gt 2.5l sedan. I'm replacing the cv axles because they make lots of noise when turning and have been going out for a while. I'm getting the parts from a local parts store for 94 bucks after core exchange. That's for both of the front ones. They are remanufactured and have a warranty. I'm replacing both of them very soon. Thanks to your video. I have the confidence I can do this myself. I'm borrowing some tools from a mechanic buddy . like the 32mm socket, impact, and braker bar. So its saving me hundreds of dollars. Thanks for the video. There's not really much on TH-cam about 1997 Subaru legacy's.
It helps to disconnect the sway bar endlinks to gain more movement out of the LCA
Eric thanks for the video. I just did both my fronts on a 1997 Legacy Outback and your video helped me finish both sides in just over an hour. I’ve never done CVs before. Thanks again.
I’m about to do mine on my 97 legacy outback as well... there’s a lot of rust though and I don’t have many tools so I know it’s gonna be a pain in the ass. Doing the pads and rotors took a while because of the rust
Pro tip: you can disable most Subaru seat belt alarms by turning the key until you hear the seatbelt chime, then buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 20 times within 30 seconds. Then turn key to off position for 5 seconds. Then turn key until the seatbelt chime starts. The Sounds should cycle once and then it will stop. If you've done it correctly the seat belt light on the gauge cluster won't be lit after the first set of chimes. Your welcome
Sir, I tip my hat to you. Your video was tremendously helpful. Many thanks! I honestly never would have thought to hit the control arm with a hammer because I tend to be wary of hitting things with hammers when I am not sure if I will break something, but it worked wonders! I replaced both of my half-shafts in my 2000 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport today because the inner CV boots were torn. It took much longer than your video because I ran into two problems: 1. The cotter pins in the castellated nuts were so tight that punching the cotter pins out was a no-go for me.I was forced to break off both ends and drill out the rest of the cotter pin. Fortunately for me, the cotter pins were very soft metal and did not take long to drill out. I used a 1/8" titanium drill bit. 2. Boy, did that roll-pin on the passenger's side inner joint above the catalytic converter give me trouble! What caused me the most consternation was that I could not simply push the inner joint all the way in and punch in the pin. I had to pull the inner joint out ever so slightly to align it with the hole properly. I am sure you said it already, but proper hole alignment is critical (I can hear the jokes already). Probably should have figured that out earlier, but live and learn. I also used a long 1/4" ratchet extender to drive the roll-pin in. I placed the roll-pin into the end of the extender that connects to the ratchet, that way it would not slip off. Is there a special tool mechanics use with which to drive those roll pins in hard to reach spots? Once again, great video.
... only to discover the timing belt was off by one tooth! I'm about to do the belt on my '97 Outback Sport and am glad I watched your last video on the Legacy. You had this car for a long time!
I did the same job on my 2K Outback. Removing the sway bar from the control arm makes it much easier to slip the lower ball joint out. Also good time to inspect/replace ball joint. Eric, yours looked loose. A trick for aligning & installing the roll pin is to use a small piece of masking tape to hold it on the end of the same diameter punch used to remove it. Aftermarket axles are well known to have vibration problems at idle or rolling in Subarus. I encountered it with Autozone axles, so I rebuilt the inner torn boot, swapped both originals back in and vibration problem solved.
OEM subaru axles last a long time unless a boot breaks. Also, it looked like the shaft into the differential had the play not the axle. Also, it's usually easier to lift the hub off the ball joint. I like to use a spud bar. Slip the flat end under the unibody support behind the wheel well toward the back of the car and put the shaft of the spud bar over the lower control arm and you have enough leverage with a six foot bar to pull the ball joint out of the hub with one hand. Without disconnecting the sway bar. Also, it's easier to punch out from the side with the larger tapered hole. And you can pull the airbox and put the punch in the vice grip and tap it out from the top.
The fronts from side to side are but they are not interchangeable with the rear axles.
Eric I just follow your steps - and I had change my front drive shafts pretty easy, thanks and regards. Subaru legacy 2.5 , 2003 GX.
So this is pretty much the same process for the 3rd gen legacy (2000-2004 models)? No seals that are different or anything?
93 awd impreza, same issues. Thank you for a a good start. Please keep up the videos.
Eric, I believe that a '97-'99 Legacy with auto transmission has an electronically controlled AWD system. If you suspect the AWD system, you should be able to pull the AWD fuse, which will essentially turn it into a FWD car.
I drive a '98 stick shift Legacy, I used an extra long pin punch from Company 23 to do my roll pins, it's a really nice tool as it has a step machined into the tip which holds the roll pin on the punch while you get it into position.
I am so glad I found this video as my u-joint on my axle just went to shit as I was leaving work. Just need to get an axle and get it to my buddies garage and this seems like a very easy fix.
I think your video was hundred!!! way better than any other videos out there on axle replacement at least.
Hey Eric. Thanks for the vid. Very helpful. FYI, I have a 1998 Legacy 2.5GT with a hesitation that I could not diagnose for years. A random mechanic told me to replace the knock sensor since the original sensor was too sensitive. Solved my problem. This applies to the 1997 too.
Taking the steering knuckle loose from the lower ball joint is the CORRECT way to do this. Congratulations. TH-cam is filled with videos showing the knuckle being removed by take the top of the knuckle loose, which requires messing with camber shims and most likely requiring an alignment afterwards.
I can not say It is fixed but it runs better. LOL. As an owner of older Subaru wagons for a lot of years,This is reality with old Subies.
It's fun to watch these videos even though I have no idea what is happening
Something of which to take note: hammering the control arm after removing the castle nut to release it from the lower ball joint stud *may* mess up your lower ball joints. Here is why: shortly after successfully replacing my axle shafts, I noticed a clunking sound coming from the front end whenever I sharply cornered to make a right turn. The sound went away for a while, so I didn't worry about it. However, once the weather turned colder, I started to notice the same sound again, only more frequently. After some research, I think that my lower ball joints need to be replaced. I am not sure if the ball joints were already starting to go bad, or if hammering the control arm to release it from the lower ball joint stud may have contributed to it. What do you think Eric? Did this happen to you as well?
Thanks for the overview and info. Got the same project coming up and its nice to have a general overview of the process before i start. Thanks again.
I was watching newer subaru videos on how to replace your clutch dropping the trans only, and couldn't figure out why my axles weren't coming out, LMAO, thank you so much.
Quick tip to ease the separation of ball joint stem out of the lower control arm: disconnect the sway bar link connection to the LCA! Notice that when he prys down on the LCA with the link connected it fights against his force...I disconnected the sway bar end link to the LCA and was able to pry with my breaker bar to disconnect the ball joint stem.....and much easier going back in. My car is 02 H6 Outback....great vid overall.
EXCELLENT discussion on the PIA roll pin !!!
Awesome. :) Thank's to these videos, I was able to replace one of the drive shafts on my Renault myself. It was much easier than I thought it would be, and now the car doesn't knock in turns anymore. Me happy! :) I don't know if Eric mentions this, but on some cars it is very important to tension the centre nuts to the correct specs. Some cars has the centre nuts putting load on the wheel bearings which means that if you overtension the nuts, your wheel bearings could become all chewed up! I don't think ALL cars has this kind of design though, but it's worth checking.
GMs pretty much ALL do
.
That's why people think GMs eat wheel bearings
People impact them on (bad)
And then over tighten them (really bad)
.
.
Another great job, thanks! I have to change my balljoint & this video although was not meant to address this gives a clear view of how I will proceed. I have to work outside for car repairs & it is great to see assembly before I get under.
Thanks! I really appreciate you documenting the process here. I did the driver side CV on my '97 Outback last weekend after watching your video and it went smooth and fast because I already knew what I was up against. Thanks again!
This video was very helpful changing my wife's 2005 forester. Almost the same just no roll pins. Thanks for a great video.
Very helpful video! I found it easier to disconnect my anti-sway bar when I did mine. You don't even need a pry bar to move the lower control arm then.
how did you get the axle out?
Did this job on an 03 Olds Alero. That thing had those stub shaft adapters. One side went slick and easy. The other side...fought me every step of the way. At least once done the car drove better, both sides were shot.
Hey Eric been off YT fo 9 months, glad you still have the car, its looking real good.
I think Eric has mentioned in a past video that you can basically keep using the driveaxle with split-open boot until it starts making noise when turning corners. For my 99 Legacy BK I'm seeing ebay prices from $40-$90 and Subaru parts website prices $180, and my mechanic here in Pittsburgh told me $100 part and $75 labor.
The play in the axles you show at around 2:50 is actually not play in the axles themselves, but wear on the preload shims for the center differential stubs that come out of the sides of the transmission, this is common but causes drivetrain lag when decelerating and accelerating
Nice and informative vids Eric. I have a 99 Legacy GTB and I am sure the front axle is stuffed. Car makes a knocking noise under the left front floor and the boot on the axle next to the diff is gone completely.
Great video, I was able to replace both CV axels on my legacy and saved about $500. Your method of separating the axle from the control arm was different from some other videos on this topic, but it saved me from a locked nut and I didn't have to worry about alignment. Many thanks! Can you do a video on the rear CV axel on the same car? At this point I wouldn't tackle that job without seeing it done first.
Eric; obviously the roll pin locks the CV axle onto the stub protruding from the Case. I saw 4-6mm of end play on video. Side end play spec should be available. There will not be an almost zero end play, or side loading of carrier bearing will destroy it.
After axle replacement they always seem tighter since roller balls were replaced in a good reman unit. Complaint of front rear awd hesitation? Maybe power transfer governor pressure inside the case. Sticking-burrs or varnish etc. Worn degraded seals or shims on main planetary shaft that need replaced. Shim packs one is always bearing majority of the load in any automatic. Improper little metal shim costing a few pennies in a bad rebuild will cause main-shaft catastrophe of excess free-play walking backwards in the case.
I've seen the axle nut back off before, because it happened to me! haha. I learned the hard way to bend that piece. The manufacturer recommends 137 fb.ft of torque. I noticed you just wrenched that sucker on there, so maybe less likely to back off for you. I'm no expert but in theory, it could reduce the life of the new part. So, if you're going by manufacture specs, its essential to bump that notch.
a trick to pulling the control arms down to get them off of the ball joint stud is to make a short chain and connect it into a loop and hook it over the control arm and place your pry bar in from the bottom and pry solely against the control arm itself and it works wonders
I had the same car a few years back. Everytime I replaced the axles the stub shafts would come out from the diff. They shouldn't do that but they did, which made it really east to take care of that roll pin, although the added length meant I had to drop the tie rod to get it out. The replacement axles I used from advance were junk, but since both axles are the same and they had a lifetime warranty, i could change one out every six months or so....
Hi Eric,
Any reason why you didn't just disconnect the swaybar endlink? I assume you were just trying to save time, but it looked like the swaybar was deflecting a lot while you were prying down on the LCA. It seemed like disconnecting the endlink would make it a lot easier to move the LCA and it wouldn't take too long to do. Anyway, thanks for another informative video!
a little trick i use for the rollpins is to put the tapered end in the vice and close it up slightly it helps with alignment of the pin and it might stay put in the hole so u dont have to try and hold the pin and punch with one hand then hit it with a hammer great vid i think u might have some diff bearing issues judging by the play in the diff output shafts.
I don't recommend that practice, it will actually cause the splines to bind and all it does is make a mess.
Both ways work, it's just a matter of preference.
I was reading online that people had problems with aftermarket axles causing vibrations with automatic transmissions while in gear sitting still. That only using OEM axles can prevent this? Theres a major price difference
That's no good if we're talking about symetrical AWD. To check the problem more closely lift the car, then give it gas a bit. You'll notice small difference as the front wheels turn slightly faster, but that's normal. If the rear wheels aren't moving at all, then you've got a serious problem with the all-wheel-drive system.
Excelente...sumamente didactico y practico, muchas gracias Eric, pude cambiar yo mismo el axle de mi 98 Subaru impreza.
That was part of the performance series.
Handbrake not to be applied before raising vehicle with a floor jack. No wheel chocs placed by rear wheels...
thanks Eric for all your time and vids no doubt help alot of people.
Excellent video. You have a natural way of explaining things
Very understandable. What should I do if the inside gear/spines come out with it. There is a retaining ring which keeps it from supposedly coming out now keeps it from going back in. 1993 Subaur
Roll pin is first and last. I liked EMPI axles but they will as always click with a 3" lift. Nice vid.
The ETCG drinking game! Every time Eric says penetrating oil, take a shot. Great vid.
I'm having a hell of time getting that roll pin back in. Trying for days can only get it in so far.
There is a viscious diff. that splits power between the front and rear axles. There is also an electric clutch that engages that diff. There is a little fuse box under the hood, rh side, on the firewall that controls it. Pop in a 20 amp fuse and you have a FWD subaru, which really tears those front axles up, but they were free....
Thank you bro... had problems until i watched your video ,so glad you told use about only two holes to put pin in . I had the one on the shaft right but the spindle wrong , thank you again.
I have a Subaru outback 97 olso and thanks for teach how remplace myself amazing video great job buddy
Definitely enjoyed that. I'm going to have to do an axel boot change at the very least on my Subaru Outback Limited 10/1998 MY-99 2.5 Litre wagon.
Considering a front axel change out as they've done a lot of miles.
But I'm definitely going to have to change at least one "front axle seal" on the transaxle as it's leaking a bit of fluid and I'm hoping it's fairly straight forward?
Your videos are awesome for the home mechanic. 👌
My gf...exgf... just rolled my 94 Legacy Turbo... I am sad panda...I had just replaced the bearings, weather stripping and CV's too :(
On a side note... GREAT videos Eric.... Really.
I know that you may have already resolved the issue but it sounds like your having an all wheel drive clutch problem. if you set it up on a rack or jack up all four wheels and run it to about 15mph and use the FWD fuse under the hood and let them slam together and separate about ten times by inserting and removing the fuse it should resolve you issue
Hey Eric, Check the U- joints on the rear drive shaft they are non serviceable on this vehicle and often go bad, which may also add to that hesitation feel!
I saw that too, except it looks like he had enough leverage to do the job without bothering to loosen the endlink. If I had to loosen any part of the sway bar, I would go for the bushing mount up top because chances are they're easier to remove (i.e. seizing).
My rear pads are 50%+ worn or so and my parking brake comes right up like that too. The easiest indication is that the brake reservoir is a little low, if there are not other known fluid leaks, then the pads are somewhat worn. The park brake requires zero adjustment normally and it's just a pad replacement needed.
thanks so much for this. i had been dreading doing this to my impreza and this gave me the confidence and everything i needed to know to pull if off
Hey Eric, if you're interested in reading about a cool handsfree HD camera...check out the "hero gopro" types of cameras. Just a FYI.
Thanks for your time and effort. Well appreciated.
I use an old 10" 1/4" extension and place the roll pin in the female end. It keeps it captive while you hit the other end of the extension
No real torque spec for the axle nut just a few real runs on the impact?
The front driver cv boot is ripped on my 97 legacy outback and it’s making noise on left turns, It’s rusted to hell and I have minimal tools and space to do this but I’m gonna give it a shot and do one for now and do the other later. I’ve never done a job like this so it should be interesting
see the briansmobile1 video on doing the axles. you do not have to remove the balljoint, just the two upper strut bolts and the axle nut then it has just enough room to wiggle out.
After doing this exact job I went out and bought a set of Mayhew roll pin punches. Too much of a hassle!
IT IS GOOD TO BUY A CAR FROM ERIC... HE HAS CHANGED EVERYTHING;)
Fuel tank of fuel, Nice. I haven't done that to my car in a while mainly because in the UK, filling your tank to Max is a serious bank buster.
Wow, 600k! That's impressive. I'm not a tech, but I drive a suby and have swapped a full drive line. While I've never opened up a transmission case I believe, if you are getting power to the front wheels and not the rear, it's going to be an issue with the center diff. Subies have a center diff that splits the power between and front and rear diff. I believe all three are open differentials on your year/trim. If your fronts are moving and neither of the rears budge...
EricTheCarGuy for President.
Glad I watched this video before I attempted to change my front axles on my 1994 Sub Leg L 5 spd, didn't know it had that pin in the axle. Wonder is it's the same on my year, only one way to find out..................
Eric, another great video. I have a 98 Legacy & need ball joint replaced. This video is a help for me. Do you have a video showing ball joint replacement?
Thanks
It would be interesting to see how the AWD actually works. 4WD is simple enough, but AWD seems like another beast entirely. The answer to intermittent lag may be there....
Great Video. My 1997 Subaru is clicking when I turn the steering wheel right or left, would this fix that problem?
Eric, I was watching a scotty Kilmer video and he was fixing a car with hesitation and it turned out the be the mass air flow thing. Hope this helps.
Same issue with 2000 Volvo with the play in axle shaft and vibration while accelerating. Replacing passenger side axle tomorrow if it comes in
Cause it's the oil pan that's leaking.
one thing i allways loved with Subaru is the 4WD transmission but that Flat (Boxer) Engine if for say a head gasket fails it would be one hell of a repair to replace it i mean that means you have to take out the entire engine? well yes many cars of the era also had 4WD hell even 4 Wheel steering (Mostly Mazda and Ford what i know of), Like VW synchro, Mercedes Benz 4Matic, and even Volvo and Ford, dont know whos system was more reliable but these are just things i know.
Also, a tip...
I am terrified of removing the ball joint crown nuts sometimes... Salt usually gets the better of them and I end up replacing a balljoint...(which is another nightmare) But then, this has been my luck on 3 cars... It may not be true for other people...
INSTEAD... I mark/score the knuckle to the strut for camber alignment and remove the outer tie rods and lower strut bolt. This gives me to room to pull axles and replace bearings as well!
Just my $.02 for what it is worth.
...I would look at the center or rear differentials. Now I am going out on a limb here, but I believe the center diff is an "open" diff, so it should transfer the power to the side of the differential with the LEAST TRACTION. So if you fronts are slipping, the center diff may not be "locking-up" and transferring any power at all to the rear differential. What I'm saying is that this may be normal behavior. STi and certain WRX and LegGT have "Limited Slip diffs" to prevent this.
also for getting the spring pin started I take a long socket just big enough to put the pin in then I use a long exstenton and tap it in!
My 99 subaru when is going 20 mph and shift to ne next I feel a push and hear a noise on the diver side. Yo think is trans. Issues or cv axle? Keep the good work Eric
Hey Eric I have a 1997 as well 5speed though. You might look into a stiffer engine and trans mount. I replaced mine and it made a huge difference on shifts. I could definitely feel the drivetrain boat around a on shifts or throttle on or off.
Thanks for the lucid video, Eric. I wonder if you can help. I am trying to
diagnose a ticking sound coming from the bellhousing area of the drive
train on my 97 Subaru Outback. When running at high speed, the tick in
inaudible, except on deceleration. The sound is most pronounced at idle.
Listening from underneath, the sound appears to come from the
bellhousing area.(The car is AT) From the area of the flywheel that is
visible, the flywheel appears to be burnished in comparison to that of
my other 97. I thought that maybe a stone or something found its way
into the bellhousing because there is no cover for that space. (If the
stone were trapped, centrifugal force would keep it stationary at high
speed.)
I made a chalk mark on the balancer and manually rotated the crank. A
pronounced clink occurs at the same spot with each rotation. I had a
friend rotate the crankshaft while I lay underneath. The sound came from
the transfer case area on the driver side. When the crank came 360
degrees from my mark, I got the same sharp click, like a drop. At 180 to
my mark, there was always another barely audible click. (like something
re-setting at 180 and dropping at 0/360.
I should mention that the car drives well with no signs of diminished
function in any area.
I have a '96 Subaru, which should be quite like this one. However, I have to take off some of the exhaust because they are under the inside of the CV joint. Why wasn't that an issue with this car or did he skip taking off the exhaust?
*have only just begun watching*
Is it just the rear CVs that have pins locking them into the diff? My coworker Just told me about that, as my new (Jap imported) legacy i bought for 80 needs 2 CVs O the LH side, amd a tyre to pass inspection
Not bad for $80