I enjoy playing with my bike, and I ain't afraid of getting dirty and diggin around on the inside, but your attention to detail and the precision you employ in your workmanship reminds me of the "hillbilly" that I truly am. KUDOS to you for your talent , your humility, (clearancing the rocker bow 2x to get it right) and your willingness to share your abilities and "tricks" with us.
Love your videos ,I’ve been wrenching on Harley shovelheads for almost 50 years,but just recently bought an 08 twin cam and have been trying to learn as much as possible ,I’m learning new stuff everyday from you, keep up the good work.
Great video, pushrod adjustment is confusing for a lot of people and you explained it extremely well. I've had people that didn't know what brand pushrods they had and they were all freaked out until I told them is really doesn't matter as long as you know the thread pitch. The same with the lifters just go with the average and check for binding and you'll be fine. Its not rocket science.
After graduating from TH-cam tech, I’ve failed on a dyna I’ve been working on. After so many different tries I finally came across your video and was able to adjust my pushrods correctly. I feel like every other video I watched said the complete opposite for tdc during adjustments
Your an amazing Meticulous Mechanic with very high Standards and Morals with everything your do. Doesn't matter if it's a Engine build or your sweeping the floor. You do the very best job that you can no matter the task. You are also very good at articulating how and what to do directly and discreetly to the task leaving. No questions should be asked, because of you being so thorough in explanation. Your knowledge of your craft is second to none , THANK YOU!!!
I make sure both cams of the cylinder that I’m installing pushrods on are on their base circles by feeling or looking at the other cylinder lifters. When the other cylinder is on overlap and both lifters are in motion, the cylinder I’m working on will have both cams on their base circles.
Is it a bad thing that I now have an overwhelming urge to tear down the motor in my Softail and check everything? Kevin, you are a joy to watch and a great teacher. I am slowly working my way through all your videos with great intrigue and enjoyment! Well done Sir.
Best way to adjust push rods with adjustable push rods is to start at the bottom and come back up whatever the threads are easiest way to determine how many turns is 32 threads put a dot between three and two 3.2 turns 24 threads 2.4 turns etc reason I know I invented them in the early nineties
For real kevin your work is teaching me tons in only the two days I have watch your chanel names Angel been a body man 30years nothing touching or rubbing peace brother
I love these videos you do a great job. Truly enjoy you showing the engines going back together and the diagnostics of what went wrong. These are the videos that truly help someone like me and I watch them 20x over
Thanks greatly for this video Kevin. I am actually underway with a can/cam plate upgrade with lifters and pushrods. Even though I was extremely particular in my pushrods there's always that apprehension of doing it right. Your video helped me make sure I was on the money. Always enjoy your topics and instruction. Greatly appreciated buddy
I have a 2003 heritage. B motor. I built it to a 95 with S&S 509 cams, stock heads, this spring. Cam plate up grade ect.. Good tune and runs well. However I got a little heavy handed on the throttle a few times. Got 4000 miles on build. Developed a slight knock. Random. Not constant like a rod knock. And a whooshing sound in the motor. I hear the knock when I put my stethoscope on the front of the engine block. Picked up some vibration as well. Compensator was checked. Clutch was replaced soon after I built it due to it slipping when I got on it a couple times. So I ruled that out. Long story short I'm tearing it down to verify issues. I believe I have issues in the counterbalancing setup. That being said, since I'm in there I'm going to have the crank checked and trued and welded along with the token bearing conversion. So to my question.. since I'm doing a complete rebuild on the bottom end I was wondering about having the case bored to accept 107 pistons and cylinders a d keep TV he existing 4" stroke. What are your thoughts on the stock stroke 107 build? Thanks. Appreciate your knowledge.
You are the greatest mechanic I have ever run across on TH-cam, HOWEVER, your head mounted camera causes such problems with my vertigo, that I can no longer watch. Last week I was actually sick for three days after watching your very exacting too end assembly. Today I am shutting down after only a few minutes. I am sorry, it is such a great learning experience for me, who has been wrenching on Harleys for almost 30 years and still learning.
thank you for the kinds words sir. i hate to hear of your troubles viewing the videos. many of our past and upcoming videos will not be filmed in that format. i had so many requests from viewers who wanted to see my perspective, i cant think of any way to do it. to accommodate, i will be more descriptive so you can at least listen.
There's a blue bike sitting behind where you're working... (Teal Blue). That's exactly what I have here! I haven't been able to tell if it's a Heritage Softail you have there. But it's a close match to mine. "Lots of chrome!"
Would you reccomend a new o-ring for the Breather? GREAT tip with cleaning material and making space for the Valve springs! I never would have thought to check that.
I don’t care what anyone says Harley Davidson has some of the most outdated engines out here in 2021. HD has been using 1950’s/1960’s technology so long and it’s caught up to them. This labor intensive engines are and have been a problem that other manufacturers have designed their engines around such as 3 hole oil changes, a huge primary chain rotating, rocker arms. Let hope Harley jumps on the thought out revolution max engine format they currently have in two bikes as of 2021.
Sir what a video..... awesome... clear,informative and by far the best out there and I’ve watched quite a few, I’ve just started a rebuild of my 01 twin cam and you’ve definitely helped ... instantly subscribed !!! Keep well 🤘😎🤘
Thank you for your Harley Tech tips. Learnt more about Harley engines in the last 4 weeks watching them than years of tinkering with engines. However, new to Harleys I have a 2018 Slim now thinking I should have stayed with a more reliable design ie 2014+ Sportster. Again thank you for your excellent explained videos.
12 RK. I had the dealer install the S.E. 103 to 103 kit. Then on the front head exclusively exhaust valve came the chatter. I suspect either the tech didn't center the lower box or the clearance issue procedure you demonstrated with the valve spring. Great tech skills Ken!!
Point of interest for people wondering why the engine is being rotated one full turn (360 degrees), the cams rotate 1/2 engine speed, thus one turn of the crankshaft (360 degrees) is equal to 180 degrees rotation of the cams.
This is cool. I have my fuel pump out of my old twincam Heritage right now. I have has a new noise up top since I put the 551 cam chest upgrade in it. I re did the breathers then. I wonder, I may not have got the base plate centered on reassembly. Its too damn hot to ride here right now so its perfect timing. Thank you for that. I have a set of centering bolts. For the old style oil pump that was in it. Thank you Kevin.
I recently installed a new DarkHorse Man O War compensator in my 2023 Road Glide Limited. I used the center on the torque spec (84-120 in lbs) on my primary cover and it leaked. I backed out the bolts and re-torqued to 120 in lbs - and no leaks.
Greetings from Oregon Kevin sometimes when I'm watching you my wife says dinner is ready 😉 I find I can't pull myself away even though I can hit the stop button lolololololol and dinner is cold thanks brother
I'm glad I found this video because I'm in the process of a cam change complete and really don't understand the 100 thousands gap but I do now, so do you have to soak the new lifters in oil before installing then let them bleed down again?
Awesome tutorial. My question is why not use solid 1 piece pushrods? And if using solid pushrods how do you measure for proper length if you are using a variety of aftermarket parts from different manufacturers?
Your attention to detail is phenomenal! Couple things I've picked up on. First why don't those housings have locating dowels machined in by the factory and second increasing clearance as you've done, won't that risk flaky chrome coming away inside the rocker box?
Another great bolt cleaner is an ultrasonic cleaner off Amazon. Some heavy duty simple green gets em cleaner then I can using a wire wheel or brake clean.
Great video as alway, do you find a need to go back and adjust the push rods after a couple thousand miles. I am trying to determine if it’s normal valve train noise from my SS475 cam and lifters or they need to be readjusted.
occasionally yes...but you shouldn't have to. that can be an indication of a less than perfect lifter or lifter to bore clearance. sometimes you may have to find a "sweet spot" of a lifter to get em quiet...but you shouldnt HAVE to do that.
Hey, Kevin! I'm curious about something here. My OCD is catching up to me, or maybe rather my worry, but is there a list of specific engine components that need to be replaced when doing a complete tear down/rebuild? More specifically all the bolts e.g. rocker box bolts torqued to the head. Curious your thoughts!
What I do is 1 valve at a time... roll motor over until front intake lifter is at its highest... (roll over a few times to verify) then go to rear intake and adjust, then roll rear intake lifter at highest then do front...vise versa with exhaust valves.
It seems a lot easier to work on the engines when they are out of the frame. Perhaps one of the next videos you do will show taking an engine out of the frame and then putting it back in.
Im suprised you didnt talk about the clearance issue with the notch on the rocker shat and its ability to hammer on the rocker assembly bolt and the use of rockouts or rocker lockers to cure this problem .
I’ve never understood adjustable pushrods. With .100 compression on the lifter it seems hinky to use adjustable pushrods when a pushrod length checker could be used to get the correct length when checking clearance then order proper length pushrods.
one help...makes cam install easier by not having to remove rocker boxes. when custom machining...the length can vary quite a bit. that would require MANY MANY length pushrods. i have made my own many times...for high rpm and race engines. but for street engines, adj is perfectly fine.
Another great instruction video Kevin, but i'm sending you a virtual kick in the peaches for having bare arms and a short sleeve shirt on in February. We're still ass deep in snow up here in Beaver Valley. Come on man!!! LOL
Let me ask a question on the rocker box. When u torque the rocker box down at 20 ft/lbs won't that mess up the torque on the other bolts that u torque at 12 ft/lbs
Not really. The rocker box bolts are perimeter bolts. The rocker arm bolts are more "interior" and the box would flex slightly. Regardless...its such a small amount, that the gasket makes up the difference. Great question.
I recently replaced my rocker box gaskets and breather assembly. I did not replace the stock OEM pushrods. Should I have replaced them. Why adjustable vs solid pushrods?
I put together 110 kit on my 07 Electra glide classic 96 cubic inch motor had about 3,000 miles on it had a base gasket leak pulled it apart this spring found scratches in cylinders with skirts are on the Pistons looked a little closer with the lifter lifter bore broke out exhaust lifter bore have you ever seen this
What is the difference in use for loc-tight vs Anti-seize compound?????? I know Anti-Seize is messy and it seems if you get a spot of it on your hand pretty soon you'll have most of your body covered with it. Don - Peoria, AZ
I have a question that I have never seen addressed anywhere. In one of your previous videos you said you had experience with hot rod auto engines. I'm sure you remember the racer's trick of adjusting the hydraulic lifters to top of travel zero lash. Start the engine after a preliminary adjustment and slowly loosen the rocker locknut until the lifter clicks, then tighten until the click stops, then go 1/16 to 1/8 turn more, semi-effectively turning them into solids. Makes it impossible to pump the lifters up at high RPM, although you can still float the valves. Can this trick be used on Harleys? I don't see why you couldn't. Any opinion?
If the umbrella valve prevents the air from getting sucked in the engine during the upstroke of the pistons, is there some other valve that allows air back in the crankcase? Or do the pistons have to overcome the effects of negative pressure during the upstroke?
Uhhh, there’s a little debris on the floor man…..just kiddin’. Your videos are wonderful. Do you know if there are any expert engine builders with your knowledge and expertise in Colorado. Winder, Georgia is a long way from here?
because the height of the cylinder head changed. between head gasket thickness, head thickness after machining, cylinder height, case deck height, etc all changed due to machining processes. A custom length pushrod could be used but that's not always cost effective for a street engine.
Why do all that just leave the cam cover off and use the timing marks for exact TDC? Timing marks facing each other on each cam sprocket then it's TDC for rear, both timing marks on the top of each cam sprocket and inline with hash mark on cam plate then front is TDC
Have you any experience with the chapstick type loctite? Its not as wet and can be put on the threads without having to wipe off your fingers after smearing it all over the threads.
Enjoyed the heck out of this series. Next the M8 episode which I have in my 2018 Softail Deluxe. Kevin, have you ever given any thought of opening a shop here in Colorado Springs?
Why adjustable push rods on a a complete engine build the engine is out and you have all the room in the world? I can understand using adjustable on a pure cam swap only......Not being critical; honestly just trying to understand why you wouldn't use a non adjustable pushrod?
I have 14 fat bob would improper adjusted push rods cause a back fire out the intake,my bike has s&s adjustable rods with tw-777 cams and every time I start after it sits for a while and is cold,I start it and let it idle and it will idle fine for a little while then it almost sounds like a misfire,then sputters and backfires out the filter and stalls. But it starts back up and when I go for a ride it never does it again until it cools again. I’m thinking I miss adjusted the push rods
How critical is it to make sure rocker assemblies get reinstalled in exactly the same spot they came out of? Do you make sure they stay together as a unit?
Any cons to using adjustable pushrods? I'm planning a cam swap and wonder if I want to keep the OEM pushrods or go adjustable. I know it's a difference in labor.
Kevin I have just received my S & S cam chest kit for my M8 and the instructions say to adjust the pushrods 4 turns should I ignore this and go with 3.2?
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I enjoy playing with my bike, and I ain't afraid of getting dirty and diggin around on the inside, but your attention to detail and the precision you employ in your workmanship reminds me of the "hillbilly" that I truly am. KUDOS to you for your talent , your humility, (clearancing the rocker bow 2x to get it right) and your willingness to share your abilities and "tricks" with us.
Kevin your videos are top notch. I feel like im sitting in a classroom .
I learned more here and collecting/ using service manuals than I did at MMI.
Love your videos ,I’ve been wrenching on Harley shovelheads for almost 50 years,but just recently bought an 08 twin cam and have been trying to learn as much as possible ,I’m learning new stuff everyday from you, keep up the good work.
nothing finer than a tradesman that pays attention to the details, it's the details that decide a win or fail on any job. great job Kevin!
Know this is an old video but just got my bike back from shop and could hear the lifters ticking, readjusted and it's so quiet now ,thanks keven
Great video, pushrod adjustment is confusing for a lot of people and you explained it extremely well. I've had people that didn't know what brand pushrods they had and they were all freaked out until I told them is really doesn't matter as long as you know the thread pitch. The same with the lifters just go with the average and check for binding and you'll be fine. Its not rocket science.
After graduating from TH-cam tech, I’ve failed on a dyna I’ve been working on. After so many different tries I finally came across your video and was able to adjust my pushrods correctly. I feel like every other video I watched said the complete opposite for tdc during adjustments
Oh man Kevin, I'm headed to the garage to check my rocker box covers. Haha! Your attention to detail is keeping me very busy. 👍
Rock on!
Your an amazing Meticulous Mechanic with very high Standards and Morals with everything your do. Doesn't matter if it's a Engine build or your sweeping the floor. You do the very best job that you can no matter the task. You are also very good at articulating how and what to do directly and discreetly to the task leaving. No questions should be asked, because of you being so thorough in explanation. Your knowledge of your craft is second to none , THANK YOU!!!
Couldn't watch it live, but I need to watch every one KB does.....KNOWLEDGE!!!
thanks Marty!
I make sure both cams of the cylinder that I’m installing pushrods on are on their base circles by feeling or looking at the other cylinder lifters. When the other cylinder is on overlap and both lifters are in motion, the cylinder I’m working on will have both cams on their base circles.
The cyl. ur working on will be at TDC ;)
That pushrod tube tool is amazing. Jims is top notch. Thanks for all the great content from Kingston Ontario.
Yes it is. Sure beats a screwdriver and it wont chip powder coat. I loved my visits to Kingston. Beautiful city. Thank you
Is it a bad thing that I now have an overwhelming urge to tear down the motor in my Softail and check everything?
Kevin, you are a joy to watch and a great teacher.
I am slowly working my way through all your videos with great intrigue and enjoyment!
Well done Sir.
Best way to adjust push rods with adjustable push rods is to start at the bottom and come back up whatever the threads are easiest way to determine how many turns is 32 threads put a dot between three and two 3.2 turns 24 threads 2.4 turns etc reason I know I invented them in the early nineties
For real kevin your work is teaching me tons in only the two days I have watch your chanel names Angel been a body man 30years nothing touching or rubbing peace brother
I love these videos you do a great job. Truly enjoy you showing the engines going back together and the diagnostics of what went wrong. These are the videos that truly help someone like me and I watch them 20x over
Thank you very much!
Thanks greatly for this video Kevin. I am actually underway with a can/cam plate upgrade with lifters and pushrods. Even though I was extremely particular in my pushrods there's always that apprehension of doing it right. Your video helped me make sure I was on the money. Always enjoy your topics and instruction. Greatly appreciated buddy
glad it helped! thanks for your support sir.
In&&&&&&bbb
This is the best video I've seen on this subject. Love the go pro angle too. Seeing things as they are for me is really helpful.
Best Twin Cam engine on the planet is what I’ll bet on! Great job Kevin!
Absolutely the best how to videos out there. Kevin, thanks so much for sharing with us. Happy I joined as a member.
Awesome, thank you! appreciate it bob!
I have a 2003 heritage. B motor. I built it to a 95 with S&S 509 cams, stock heads, this spring. Cam plate up grade ect.. Good tune and runs well. However I got a little heavy handed on the throttle a few times. Got 4000 miles on build. Developed a slight knock. Random. Not constant like a rod knock. And a whooshing sound in the motor. I hear the knock when I put my stethoscope on the front of the engine block. Picked up some vibration as well. Compensator was checked. Clutch was replaced soon after I built it due to it slipping when I got on it a couple times. So I ruled that out. Long story short I'm tearing it down to verify issues. I believe I have issues in the counterbalancing setup. That being said, since I'm in there I'm going to have the crank checked and trued and welded along with the token bearing conversion.
So to my question.. since I'm doing a complete rebuild on the bottom end I was wondering about having the case bored to accept 107 pistons and cylinders a d keep TV he existing 4" stroke. What are your thoughts on the stock stroke 107 build? Thanks. Appreciate your knowledge.
One of my favorite builds! Doing 3 of them now. 4" stroke on a 4 1/8" bore. Awesome.
You are the greatest mechanic I have ever run across on TH-cam, HOWEVER, your head mounted camera causes such problems with my vertigo, that I can no longer watch. Last week I was actually sick for three days after watching your very exacting too end assembly. Today I am shutting down after only a few minutes. I am sorry, it is such a great learning experience for me, who has been wrenching on Harleys for almost 30 years and still learning.
thank you for the kinds words sir. i hate to hear of your troubles viewing the videos. many of our past and upcoming videos will not be filmed in that format. i had so many requests from viewers who wanted to see my perspective, i cant think of any way to do it. to accommodate, i will be more descriptive so you can at least listen.
KEVIN.THE ONLY ONE.
try a dramamine non drowsy
There's a blue bike sitting behind where you're working... (Teal Blue).
That's exactly what I have here! I haven't been able to tell if it's a Heritage Softail you have there. But it's a close match to mine. "Lots of chrome!"
Thank you for taking time to explain this part of a build..
Would you reccomend a new o-ring for the Breather? GREAT tip with cleaning material and making space for the Valve springs! I never would have thought to check that.
Imagine Baxter and Tatro working in the same shop...sitcom comedy genius.
I don’t care what anyone says Harley Davidson has some of the most outdated engines out here in 2021. HD has been using 1950’s/1960’s technology so long and it’s caught up to them. This labor intensive engines are and have been a problem that other manufacturers have designed their engines around such as 3 hole oil changes, a huge primary chain rotating, rocker arms. Let hope Harley jumps on the thought out revolution max engine format they currently have in two bikes as of 2021.
Thank you very detailed, and helpful. Well done
I would also suggest rolling the pushrods on a flat surface to ensure they are true/straight.
great suggestion sir. i do that...just forgot to mention. thank you.
Sir what a video..... awesome... clear,informative and by far the best out there and I’ve watched quite a few, I’ve just started a rebuild of my 01 twin cam and you’ve definitely helped ... instantly subscribed !!! Keep well 🤘😎🤘
Thank you for your Harley Tech tips. Learnt more about Harley engines in the last 4 weeks watching them than years of tinkering with engines. However, new to Harleys I have a 2018 Slim now thinking I should have stayed with a more reliable design ie 2014+ Sportster. Again thank you for your excellent explained videos.
12 RK. I had the dealer install the S.E. 103 to 103 kit. Then on the front head exclusively exhaust valve came the chatter. I suspect either the tech didn't center the lower box or the clearance issue procedure you demonstrated with the valve spring. Great tech skills Ken!!
hard to speculate. many places.... thank you sir!
Point of interest for people wondering why the engine is being rotated one full turn (360 degrees), the cams rotate 1/2 engine speed, thus one turn of the crankshaft (360 degrees) is equal to 180 degrees rotation of the cams.
I feel like your the professor and I’m the student in college great 👍 knowledge and skills
Another excellent installment - Informative AND entertaining - Many Thanks
This is cool. I have my fuel pump out of my old twincam Heritage right now. I have has a new noise up top since I put the 551 cam chest upgrade in it. I re did the breathers then. I wonder, I may not have got the base plate centered on reassembly. Its too damn hot to ride here right now so its perfect timing. Thank you for that. I have a set of centering bolts. For the old style oil pump that was in it. Thank you Kevin.
I recently installed a new DarkHorse Man O War compensator in my 2023 Road Glide Limited. I used the center on the torque spec (84-120 in lbs) on my primary cover and it leaked. I backed out the bolts and re-torqued to 120 in lbs - and no leaks.
Such a great series. It’s great to watch a professional and to know my process lines right up with his.
Yeah, I want a treat like that 😒
Thank you Kevin for amazing videos!
The best HD engine put together videos I have ever seen so far !
👌👍💪
Thank you very much! appreciate it
So many things are shiny!
Greetings from Oregon Kevin sometimes when I'm watching you my wife says dinner is ready 😉 I find I can't pull myself away even though I can hit the stop button lolololololol and dinner is cold thanks brother
The pause button is there for a reason. Eat that dinner hot man and watch over dessert! LOL. Thank you !
I'm glad I found this video because I'm in the process of a cam change complete and really don't understand the 100 thousands gap but I do now, so do you have to soak the new lifters in oil before installing then let them bleed down again?
Your customer is going to be very happy. 👍
I think so too!
Top work & we'll explained for us mere mortals 😅👍
Glad you liked it thanks
Excellent tips, thanks Kevin
Happy to help! Thanks for your support!
Awesome tutorial. My question is why not use solid 1 piece pushrods? And if using solid pushrods how do you measure for proper length if you are using a variety of aftermarket parts from different manufacturers?
Love that new tool for push rod covers
its slick. wont scratch either.
Your attention to detail is phenomenal! Couple things I've picked up on. First why don't those housings have locating dowels machined in by the factory and second increasing clearance as you've done, won't that risk flaky chrome coming away inside the rocker box?
Wow. If i ever want an engine rebuild I would want you to do it. OCD like a Jarhead. Lol. Thank you sir.
Another great bolt cleaner is an ultrasonic cleaner off Amazon. Some heavy duty simple green gets em cleaner then I can using a wire wheel or brake clean.
Great video as alway, do you find a need to go back and adjust the push rods after a couple thousand miles. I am trying to determine if it’s normal valve train noise from my SS475 cam and lifters or they need to be readjusted.
occasionally yes...but you shouldn't have to. that can be an indication of a less than perfect lifter or lifter to bore clearance. sometimes you may have to find a "sweet spot" of a lifter to get em quiet...but you shouldnt HAVE to do that.
Dude you work so nice smooth and clean like my mechanic Master use to 😉Thx remember me this days .
tks again Kevin!
Great video
Hey, Kevin! I'm curious about something here. My OCD is catching up to me, or maybe rather my worry, but is there a list of specific engine components that need to be replaced when doing a complete tear down/rebuild? More specifically all the bolts e.g. rocker box bolts torqued to the head. Curious your thoughts!
for those type of bolts typically not. bolts like stator bolts, certainly...because its a high torque value relative to the size of the bolt.
Great video Kevin, let's get those M8s rocking!
What I do is 1 valve at a time... roll motor over until front intake lifter is at its highest... (roll over a few times to verify) then go to rear intake and adjust, then roll rear intake lifter at highest then do front...vise versa with exhaust valves.
It seems a lot easier to work on the engines when they are out of the frame. Perhaps one of the next videos you do will show taking an engine out of the frame and then putting it back in.
Very informative videos! Is there a drill spec for the drain holes on the breathers!??
many will drill them to .060 or .080 to return oil quicker.
@@KevinBaxter thx! U don't like to drill them??
great video
Im suprised you didnt talk about the clearance issue with the notch on the rocker shat and its ability to hammer on the rocker assembly bolt and the use of rockouts or rocker lockers to cure this problem .
ive spoken of them before.
Thanks Sir.... excellent presentation
Great video and instruction! Looking forward to more of your videos!
Another great video! Thank you for doing these!
Hey Kevin. with your cam cover off you can line up your timing marks up for TDC on the rear cylinder, right? That's what I've done with 3 cam swaps.
Great video. I didn't see the date it was uploaded. Did I miss it if you said weather or not the rocker support plates are reversible?
I’ve never understood adjustable pushrods. With .100 compression on the lifter it seems hinky to use adjustable pushrods when a pushrod length checker could be used to get the correct length when checking clearance then order proper length pushrods.
one help...makes cam install easier by not having to remove rocker boxes. when custom machining...the length can vary quite a bit. that would require MANY MANY length pushrods. i have made my own many times...for high rpm and race engines. but for street engines, adj is perfectly fine.
Hi Kevin, great vids loving the tuition .. where are the other vids in this series?
Agreed...top notch 👌
Outstanding video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Another great instruction video Kevin, but i'm sending you a virtual kick in the peaches for having bare arms and a short sleeve shirt on in February. We're still ass deep in snow up here in Beaver Valley. Come on man!!! LOL
What are your thoughts on putting in rocker lockers? Even as a preventive measure.
Great video Kevin. Thanks very much.
Very welcome
Nice video but the camera keeps moving fast and we didn't see when you need to extend the pushrod after the zero lash i believe 3 turns and quarter .
Ahh.. a wrencher is easy to entertain.. “let me test myself on my torque value”.. I do it too.. nice thing is, the wife ALWAYS knows where we are
Let me ask a question on the rocker box. When u torque the rocker box down at 20 ft/lbs won't that mess up the torque on the other bolts that u torque at 12 ft/lbs
Not really. The rocker box bolts are perimeter bolts. The rocker arm bolts are more "interior" and the box would flex slightly. Regardless...its such a small amount, that the gasket makes up the difference. Great question.
Kevin 5 Stars !!!!! Thanks !!!! Is that a Craftsman wrench you are using on that Briggs and Stratton motor LOL
hahaha. yes...back from when craftsman wrenches were good. ive had those for over 35 years.
I recently replaced my rocker box gaskets and breather assembly. I did not replace the stock OEM pushrods. Should I have replaced them. Why adjustable vs solid pushrods?
I put together 110 kit on my 07 Electra glide classic 96 cubic inch motor had about 3,000 miles on it had a base gasket leak pulled it apart this spring found scratches in cylinders with skirts are on the Pistons looked a little closer with the lifter lifter bore broke out exhaust lifter bore have you ever seen this
What is the difference in use for loc-tight vs Anti-seize compound?????? I know Anti-Seize is messy and it seems if you get a spot of it on your hand pretty soon you'll have most of your body covered with it. Don - Peoria, AZ
I have a question that I have never seen addressed anywhere. In one of your previous videos you said you had experience with hot rod auto engines. I'm sure you remember the racer's trick of adjusting the hydraulic lifters to top of travel zero lash. Start the engine after a preliminary adjustment and slowly loosen the rocker locknut until the lifter clicks, then tighten until the click stops, then go 1/16 to 1/8 turn more, semi-effectively turning them into solids. Makes it impossible to pump the lifters up at high RPM, although you can still float the valves. Can this trick be used on Harleys? I don't see why you couldn't. Any opinion?
Great video. Thanks Kevin.
Thanks for watching
If the umbrella valve prevents the air from getting sucked in the engine during the upstroke of the pistons, is there some other valve that allows air back in the crankcase?
Or do the pistons have to overcome the effects of negative pressure during the upstroke?
you dont WANT air back inside. pistons have to overcome it BUT its so minimal.
Uhhh, there’s a little debris on the floor man…..just kiddin’. Your videos are wonderful. Do you know if there are any expert engine builders with your knowledge and expertise in Colorado. Winder, Georgia is a long way from here?
Question: why would you use adjustable pushrods here? Since you have everything apart it seams that solid would be the thing to use? Thanks.
because the height of the cylinder head changed. between head gasket thickness, head thickness after machining, cylinder height, case deck height, etc all changed due to machining processes. A custom length pushrod could be used but that's not always cost effective for a street engine.
Why do all that just leave the cam cover off and use the timing marks for exact TDC? Timing marks facing each other on each cam sprocket then it's TDC for rear, both timing marks on the top of each cam sprocket and inline with hash mark on cam plate then front is TDC
Kevin question on the turns so it’s 3 full turns and 2 flats or 1 flats to be 3.2
Have you any experience with the chapstick type loctite? Its not as wet and can be put on the threads without having to wipe off your fingers after smearing it all over the threads.
yes. it works. just not a fan myself.
Thank u
Enjoyed the heck out of this series. Next the M8 episode which I have in my 2018 Softail Deluxe. Kevin, have you ever given any thought of opening a shop here in Colorado Springs?
My body doesnt like the cold. LOL
Why adjustable push rods on a a complete engine build the engine is out and you have all the room in the world? I can understand using adjustable on a pure cam swap only......Not being critical; honestly just trying to understand why you wouldn't use a non adjustable pushrod?
I have 14 fat bob would improper adjusted push rods cause a back fire out the intake,my bike has s&s adjustable rods with tw-777 cams and every time I start after it sits for a while and is cold,I start it and let it idle and it will idle fine for a little while then it almost sounds like a misfire,then sputters and backfires out the filter and stalls. But it starts back up and when I go for a ride it never does it again until it cools again. I’m thinking I miss adjusted the push rods
Thanks so much for this.
You're very welcome!
Hard to find the next video in this build series.
Just curious, why are you using adjustable pushrods if you already have the rocker box opened up?
How critical is it to make sure rocker assemblies get reinstalled in exactly the same spot they came out of? Do you make sure they stay together as a unit?
you should do some black rocker boxes with "skunk works" engraved on the side .
oooooooooo.....nice idea. thanks.
@@KevinBaxter when I get my motor to ya ill Definatly get a set !
Do you like to use roller rockers if yes what brand? Thanks your video’s are awesome!!!!
Any cons to using adjustable pushrods? I'm planning a cam swap and wonder if I want to keep the OEM pushrods or go adjustable. I know it's a difference in labor.
not for a street engine. racing may be a little different story. Just make sure they are adjusted properly.
Kevin I have just received my S & S cam chest kit for my M8 and the instructions say to adjust the pushrods 4 turns should I ignore this and go with 3.2?
i would go with 4 as the instructions suggest.