@@Realisticskateyou only need to if the car is overheating or it won’t blow hot air from the ac that means there’s a bubble in the system. when i had bubbles the temps went crazy, coolant was leaking and there was white smoke coming from engine bay. the only way that worked (for bmw e46) was first raise the front of the car, then remove exp tank cap & bleed screw, then turn key to position 2 & turn ac temp to 91 and fan speed lowest setting, leave for 5-10 min, then take the key out and start to slowly fill w phosphate free blue coolant mixed w half distilled water & keep filling slowly until you see air bubbles and coolant come from bleed screw, keep filling slowly slowly until you don’t really see any air bubbles at all coming out w the coolant from bleed screw, then grab the lower rad hose and squeeze from front to back the entire hose squeeze squeeze, then very important last step is to suck out the extra coolant from the exp tank using either a turkey baster or i use the lotion bottle squirter thing, make sure the float only sticks out half an inch, then retighten bleed screw and exp tank cap, turn on the car warm up keep the heat on if it blows hot after warming up u are good
Air in the cooling system has nothing to do with why a hot radiator erupts when the cap is removed. The cap keeps the radiator under pressure which raises the boiling point of the coolant. When you remove the cap pressure decreases, boiling point drops liquid boils creating steam. Even with proper fill you should never remove the cap on a hot rad.
@@Sak-zo1ui You do it before you drive or after it cools down. If the cap has a lever you can lift the lever to relieve the pressure. If you must check it while hot use a thick layer of rags/towels over the cap and slowly turn the cap while keeping downward pressure on the cap to slowly relieve the pressure. Also be very careful adding cold water to an overheated empty radiator, that will also cause a volcano if you add it too quickly.
To keep it from spilling as you remove the funnel squeeze the upper hose a little and then put the plug in. When you lift the funnel up the coolant will drop a little below the adapter as it’s lifted. Spill free.
350z’s have a coolant bleed valve at the back of the engine! You can bleed the system by using a Phillips head(large) and turning the plastic screw/valve left to open right to close!
Take it from a 20yr tech. Buy a vacuum filling tool like the Bluepoint Radkitplus. You need an air compressor to use it, but it takes all the risk out of filling a cooling system. I've seen brand new engines get ruined by air pockets.
@smerk429 Yep, the thermostat never opened and the engine scuffed the piston skirts and cylinder walls because of it. So yes, damaged from overheating. Mostly cars with reverse flow cooling systems were the hardest to bleed.
This is pretty straight forward. It would work with any vehicle just about. I have yet to find the bleeder on my vehicle but I basically do the same thing when flushing and changing coolant.
As this is a good informal video .vacuum bleeding is the better way to fill the cooling system. Does not matter which vehicle. Or cooling system design. A vacuum of at least minus 25 inches ensures there is almost no air locks in the system. Do it twice. And show a slow stream from the vacc exhaust port. . Squeeze the top hose to listen to the giggle valve in the thermostat. Top the system off. Cap on. And start. Hook up a old reader and watch the temp rise. Once it hits 85c it will drop. Then it will climb to 85c. And stay constant. With no interior fan on the temp will Reach 102c. Then drop down to 92c.
As an HVAC company, people assume AC is cooling but it’s true, heating air is also conditioning the air. Lastly there is no such thing as cold, only a lack of heat and the rate you lose heat makes you feel less hot(cold).
I work on cars from time to time, so I'm not an expert, but I'll take a crack at this. First heat and then AC. The heat for the cabin of your vehicle is extracted from the heat being produced in the engine block, being transferred into the coolant in the coolant passages and then pumped into the radiator to be cooled down and then recirculated. Some of this hot coolant is extracted and sent to the heater core which is usually located on the opposite side of the firewall of the vehicle, The heater core is basically a small radiator full of hot liquid. As the blower motor passes air through the heater core, some of this heat is drawn away into the air so that it can heat the air in the vehicle cabin. This much is usually common knowledge, But the main takeaway is this reduces the temperature of the coolant going back to the engine because if you're extracting heat then you are making the coolant "less hot".. The AC works in pretty much the exact same way, although a little different in its process. The refrigerant used in an AC system is a liquid that responds greatly to thermal energy, When you compress it, it heats up rapidly when you allow it to evaporate it loses heat and exchanges that heat away rapidly. The refrigerant starts at the AC compressor which puts the liquid under pressure preventing it from evaporating and introducing heat into it, as this hot compressed refrigerant passes through the AC condenser, "the second radiator in front of your coolant radiator". This greatly reduces the temperature of the compressed refrigerant carrying that extracted heat into the engine bay, so it is under pressure and colder. There's a few more things that happens here but, it then moves to the evaporator core, Which as its name implies Is a space under low pressure where the refrigerant is allowed to evaporate/vaporize, This process extracts a lot of heat away into a larger volume of a space. Which is where you get the cold air from, It is then blown into the vehicle cabin Which brings the refrigerant to a hotter temperature and it repeats the process. To summarize when you turn on The Heat in the cabin you are extracting heat from the engine bay when you turn on the AC in the cabin you are adding heat to the engine bay.
My mechanic didn't bleed the system properly after heater core change. When I drove my car home, the coolant level almost dropped down to the bottom of the reservoir. When I called him back, all he said "meh, can you add coolant yourself?" My alternator and starter went out a week later. I feel it was related.
That has nothing to do with the coolant totally different thing just might’ve been coincidence. Trust me. I am (Mechanic) by Hobby but I know what I’m telling you.
WTF, please tell us how coolant level and your starter and alternator are related? Coolant in the reservoir meant the radiator is full, so no problem there.
@@buddyrebel_Garcia I’m thinking my mechanic did the same. Or it was just never filled when I got home I found it very low and stopped by today to have it added. My question is, what happens if you only fill through the reservoir to the fill line and do no more? That’s what a mechanic did to my car. Am I good to go or should there have been additional steps?
@@LeviWalton777if you just filled coolant and it becomes low or empty then most likely there is a leak. If low, refill coolant up to the line as indicated because of high pressure during operating temp when engine is running, prevents stressing the coolant system and possible overflow. Some cars have two locations to hold coolant, with one being a reserve tank, but make sure when engine is cool to check both for its levels.
Lol I just remove the top radiator hose that goes to the engine block and add coolant through there and the radiator. Still got to warm up the car and make sure coolant level is at proper specifications.
On my e39 I open the cap Turn the car on heat full blast not all the way on Add coolant slowly and remove bleeder screw. Wait till all bubbles disappear from resivour . Close both. Ride away I only advise this if you have to consistently top off your system
Even if you get all the air out of the cooling system, if you open the pressure cap when it's warm, that will happen. Cooling systems run at roughly 16PSI....
The blend door is what makes the hot air come out, the coolant flows through the heater core no matter what. You can turn the heat on as an indicator to feel if coolant is running through it, but the heater core doesnt open up. Im not 100 percent sure on this ride so i could be wrong.
Bro just get a vacuum style coolant refill system you need an air compressor but I literally just create a vacuum then use the adapters to suck up coolant at hyper speed from the gallons I have it’s awesome
Maybe, but if you can't jack it, just go up a hill and make sure your car is aimed up a bit, make sure the parking break is on etc., and that should help, as the car being tilted or leaned back is good for the air to escape as heat rises etc..
The car exploded in the guy’s face because he took the coolant cap off before waiting for his car to cool down first. It’s a pressurized system when it’s hot, you’re never supposed to take off the coolant cap after driving the car, just wait for it to cool off first and that won’t happen to you.
i almost did that few weeks ago on my bmw e46 lol thankfully i kept a close eye on my temps and shut it down right away but i realized quickly i was supposed to bleed the system after changing my expansion tank smh rookie mistake
@@46god I wasn’t so lucky. I was on the highway and I overheated my engine like 8 times. I’m surprised it only needed a head gasket. Replaced it myself and all is good and now I refuse to let that happen again
firs hold the bottle side ways second if you got a bleeder on your car you dont need this fancy funnel just add fluid to the top open the bleeder a lil bit let air out but nice car
@@RnGRacing 💀💀💀the video you were talking about was literally a 5 second clip of someone removing the reservoir/radiator cap and it exploding coolant from the pressure change 😂😂😂😂
I had that happen before. It shot out so hard and hot for like a minute with steam and all the radiator fix crap I had in there. It was crazy. I was having overheating issues at the time.
Nice! Now you can open the rad cap while at operating temp, since the coolants been flushed. Recommended to do so as soon as possible after vehicle is turned off!
It's definitely a nissan 350z thing. I've done the coolant on my z this way before... still can have air in the system. I bought a refill evac tool to remedy this problem. Best $80 I ever spent.
How about on a 21 Acura? I just flushed my car, and filled it back up, using the same funnel, but now I’m only getting hot air on Hi setting? If I go down to say, 87, 86,even 75, my air goes to room temperature? I only get hot air on Hi. Any help would be great? Thanks
In some cars or situations a funnel won’t help. For example my Ford Galaxy overheated after a change with this funnel. I ended up buying a pressure based bleeding device to get a vacuum before filling up.
I just did my brothers Subaru, i filled it and let it idle and it overheated, texted one of the techs from work and asked him, he said throttle it when the thermostat opens and run heat on max, it definitely worked.
Filled my 95 Toyota Tacoma with 229k miles with hose water because I’ve been flushing the system or whatnot. I’ve replaced the thermostat and today I filled the coolant system up again and ran the truck at idle while adding water until it stopped bubbling. I put the cap on and drove it on and off all day. All of a sudden it just randomly overheated and blew a 4 inch crack in the top of the radiator right next to the pressure cap. I’m frustrated.
this is stupid, 1 never open the radiator of a hot engine, and 2 you don't need to buy all that stuff. just fill the coolant keep the cap off of the radiator then start your engine, wait til the thermostate opens. then add more coolant close the cap of the radiator and fill the coolant reservoir and check on it from time to time
Those funnels are stupid. Lots of cars have an angled fill neck. My cars manual literally tells you to park on a steep hill or jack the front end up to let air out of the cooling system. 1998 ford escort zx2.
I had to burp the air out of my system today. I literally just used the coolant bottle and poured it in, turned car on and off and repeat. No more air no more overheating.
On my BMW they used a plastic bleeder screw and I stg it's too easy to break. The first time bleeding the system the head snapped off and I had to replace the entire hose because now it was a coolant leak.
@@tonycerini9306usually the heater core gets coolant flow right away before it enters the block, and gets recirculated constantly - the thermostat opens to allow coolant to flow from the block to the radiator once the engine is hot
When you turn your HVAC control to the hot setting, it opens a little valve that lets the hot coolant run through your heater core, otherwise it is closed off if it is set to cold
When doing a coolant change at a Honda dealer, to get the air bubbles out they literally bounce off the limiter for over a minute. My friend sent me a video once and it’s was so funny
I just manually squeeze the steaming hot pipes like a real man to pump the bubbles out 😏😂
Both
I’ve done this but it didn’t help a huge amount.
That’s what I learned to do from my granpa didn’t even know this way bouta go do it to my car prolly needs it
@@Realisticskateyou only need to if the car is overheating or it won’t blow hot air from the ac that means there’s a bubble in the system. when i had bubbles the temps went crazy, coolant was leaking and there was white smoke coming from engine bay. the only way that worked (for bmw e46) was first raise the front of the car, then remove exp tank cap & bleed screw, then turn key to position 2 & turn ac temp to 91 and fan speed lowest setting, leave for 5-10 min, then take the key out and start to slowly fill w phosphate free blue coolant mixed w half distilled water & keep filling slowly until you see air bubbles and coolant come from bleed screw, keep filling slowly slowly until you don’t really see any air bubbles at all coming out w the coolant from bleed screw, then grab the lower rad hose and squeeze from front to back the entire hose squeeze squeeze, then very important last step is to suck out the extra coolant from the exp tank using either a turkey baster or i use the lotion bottle squirter thing, make sure the float only sticks out half an inch, then retighten bleed screw and exp tank cap, turn on the car warm up keep the heat on if it blows hot after warming up u are good
That doesn’t help open the thermostat though.
Air in the cooling system has nothing to do with why a hot radiator erupts when the cap is removed. The cap keeps the radiator under pressure which raises the boiling point of the coolant. When you remove the cap pressure decreases, boiling point drops liquid boils creating steam. Even with proper fill you should never remove the cap on a hot rad.
This. Guy doesn't know what he's talking about lol.
You can open it. Just do it slowly. Properly working radiator cap should bleed excess pressure above 1.3 bars (approx.)
How do you check the coolant level then on a vehicle without an expansion tank?
@@Sak-zo1ui You do it before you drive or after it cools down. If the cap has a lever you can lift the lever to relieve the pressure. If you must check it while hot use a thick layer of rags/towels over the cap and slowly turn the cap while keeping downward pressure on the cap to slowly relieve the pressure. Also be very careful adding cold water to an overheated empty radiator, that will also cause a volcano if you add it too quickly.
@@Sak-zo1ui There are vehicles without expansion tank?
You dont know how much i appreciate this being 57 seconds long
Seriously, why are cooling systems so poorly designed just changing the coolant takes a lot longer and risks damaging the engine.
Not that bad and how does it risk engine damage???
Its because every radiator and engine is different
To keep it from spilling as you remove the funnel squeeze the upper hose a little and then put the plug in. When you lift the funnel up the coolant will drop a little below the adapter as it’s lifted. Spill free.
That is genius!!
350z’s have a coolant bleed valve at the back of the engine! You can bleed the system by using a Phillips head(large) and turning the plastic screw/valve left to open right to close!
Take it from a 20yr tech. Buy a vacuum filling tool like the Bluepoint Radkitplus. You need an air compressor to use it, but it takes all the risk out of filling a cooling system. I've seen brand new engines get ruined by air pockets.
Literally the best way to bleed a system. And it takes maybe 5 minutes after you vacuum down the system.
exactly airlift. but avoid headache.
The comment I was looking for. Does nobody know the existence of that tool??
The engines got ruined by air pockets or by overheating caused by having air pockets ?
@smerk429 Yep, the thermostat never opened and the engine scuffed the piston skirts and cylinder walls because of it. So yes, damaged from overheating. Mostly cars with reverse flow cooling systems were the hardest to bleed.
This is pretty straight forward. It would work with any vehicle just about. I have yet to find the bleeder on my vehicle but I basically do the same thing when flushing and changing coolant.
As this is a good informal video .vacuum bleeding is the better way to fill the cooling system. Does not matter which vehicle. Or cooling system design. A vacuum of at least minus 25 inches ensures there is almost no air locks in the system. Do it twice. And show a slow stream from the vacc exhaust port. . Squeeze the top hose to listen to the giggle valve in the thermostat. Top the system off. Cap on. And start. Hook up a old reader and watch the temp rise. Once it hits 85c it will drop. Then it will climb to 85c. And stay constant. With no interior fan on the temp will Reach 102c. Then drop down to 92c.
I just run the car with no radiator cap and wait for thermostat to open
How do you prevent it from bubbling over?
crank the a/c to heat! 😂
I also like the part where he says to wait for the "heater core" to open up (I think he may have meant thermostat?)
ac means air conditioner, doesn't specify hot or cold.
@@jay-gt8re except it does. My car doesn't have ac but sure has a heater
@@Makaya9s no it doesnt.
As an HVAC company, people assume AC is cooling but it’s true, heating air is also conditioning the air. Lastly there is no such thing as cold, only a lack of heat and the rate you lose heat makes you feel less hot(cold).
I work on cars from time to time, so I'm not an expert, but I'll take a crack at this. First heat and then AC. The heat for the cabin of your vehicle is extracted from the heat being produced in the engine block, being transferred into the coolant in the coolant passages and then pumped into the radiator to be cooled down and then recirculated. Some of this hot coolant is extracted and sent to the heater core which is usually located on the opposite side of the firewall of the vehicle, The heater core is basically a small radiator full of hot liquid. As the blower motor passes air through the heater core, some of this heat is drawn away into the air so that it can heat the air in the vehicle cabin. This much is usually common knowledge, But the main takeaway is this reduces the temperature of the coolant going back to the engine because if you're extracting heat then you are making the coolant "less hot".. The AC works in pretty much the exact same way, although a little different in its process. The refrigerant used in an AC system is a liquid that responds greatly to thermal energy, When you compress it, it heats up rapidly when you allow it to evaporate it loses heat and exchanges that heat away rapidly. The refrigerant starts at the AC compressor which puts the liquid under pressure preventing it from evaporating and introducing heat into it, as this hot compressed refrigerant passes through the AC condenser, "the second radiator in front of your coolant radiator". This greatly reduces the temperature of the compressed refrigerant carrying that extracted heat into the engine bay, so it is under pressure and colder. There's a few more things that happens here but, it then moves to the evaporator core, Which as its name implies Is a space under low pressure where the refrigerant is allowed to evaporate/vaporize, This process extracts a lot of heat away into a larger volume of a space. Which is where you get the cold air from, It is then blown into the vehicle cabin Which brings the refrigerant to a hotter temperature and it repeats the process. To summarize when you turn on The Heat in the cabin you are extracting heat from the engine bay when you turn on the AC in the cabin you are adding heat to the engine bay.
My mechanic didn't bleed the system properly after heater core change. When I drove my car home, the coolant level almost dropped down to the bottom of the reservoir. When I called him back, all he said "meh, can you add coolant yourself?" My alternator and starter went out a week later. I feel it was related.
That has nothing to do with the coolant totally different thing just might’ve been coincidence. Trust me. I am (Mechanic) by Hobby but I know what I’m telling you.
WTF, please tell us how coolant level and your starter and alternator are related?
Coolant in the reservoir meant the radiator is full, so no problem there.
@@buddyrebel_Garcia I’m thinking my mechanic did the same. Or it was just never filled when I got home I found it very low and stopped by today to have it added.
My question is, what happens if you only fill through the reservoir to the fill line and do no more? That’s what a mechanic did to my car. Am I good to go or should there have been additional steps?
@@LeviWalton777if you just filled coolant and it becomes low or empty then most likely there is a leak.
If low, refill coolant up to the line as indicated because of high pressure during operating temp when engine is running, prevents stressing the coolant system and possible overflow.
Some cars have two locations to hold coolant, with one being a reserve tank, but make sure when engine is cool to check both for its levels.
You sound like a dummy
Lol I just remove the top radiator hose that goes to the engine block and add coolant through there and the radiator. Still got to warm up the car and make sure coolant level is at proper specifications.
Best explanation ever thank you 🤦🏾♂️
Too confusing, blew up my car
😭😭
Very informative 👏🏼 👌🏼
On my e39 I open the cap
Turn the car on heat full blast not all the way on
Add coolant slowly and remove bleeder screw. Wait till all bubbles disappear from resivour . Close both. Ride away
I only advise this if you have to consistently top off your system
Easiest way to bleed a vq is to throw the whole car away
You forgot to add another 5 quarts of oil after revving to 3K 🤯🤯🤯
Haha
Even if you get all the air out of the cooling system, if you open the pressure cap when it's warm, that will happen. Cooling systems run at roughly 16PSI....
The blend door is what makes the hot air come out, the coolant flows through the heater core no matter what. You can turn the heat on as an indicator to feel if coolant is running through it, but the heater core doesnt open up. Im not 100 percent sure on this ride so i could be wrong.
Crank our AC to full Heat 😎
Air conditioning doesn't specify hot or cold
Foo gave me a flow rate like I got a meter in my pouring arm or something
Hahahah
Bro just get a vacuum style coolant refill system you need an air compressor but I literally just create a vacuum then use the adapters to suck up coolant at hyper speed from the gallons I have it’s awesome
Will it still work if you can’t Jack up the vehicle ?
Maybe, but if you can't jack it, just go up a hill and make sure your car is aimed up a bit, make sure the parking break is on etc., and that should help, as the car being tilted or leaned back is good for the air to escape as heat rises etc..
Did this to a honda crv and the head gasket was bad so it shoot coolant about 30ft high , broke my funnel kit though
Being a Nissan and not a BMW also helps prevent that. Coolant issues are just common bmw things lol
Gotta c240 Benz How can I Get the air out once I flush all the old coolant and replace it with new coolant antifreeze do I just sqweeze the hose?
The car exploded in the guy’s face because he took the coolant cap off before waiting for his car to cool down first. It’s a pressurized system when it’s hot, you’re never supposed to take off the coolant cap after driving the car, just wait for it to cool off first and that won’t happen to you.
“Open the heater core” lol
That is fucking cring every time I hear someone say that
😂😂 should be thermostat
@@kevinbmx9826 I don’t remember what happened on the video and don’t feel like watching again but yeah. Or bleeder valve if it has.
Will any liquid be spilled if you don’t slowly get up to 3000 reps?
When I was younger I didn’t know you had to burp a car afterward from a coolant flush and I ended up blowing my head gasket lol
i almost did that few weeks ago on my bmw e46 lol thankfully i kept a close eye on my temps and shut it down right away but i realized quickly i was supposed to bleed the system after changing my expansion tank smh rookie mistake
@@46god I wasn’t so lucky. I was on the highway and I overheated my engine like 8 times. I’m surprised it only needed a head gasket. Replaced it myself and all is good and now I refuse to let that happen again
@@michaelstevens04 damn bro well honestly it could have been much much worse like a warped block
@@46god luckily these trition motors are completely cast iron so it’s almost indestructible
@@michaelstevens04 what car was that? that for sure saved you though lol i got an aluminum block so much scarier when you get cooling system issues
How many cars still have a valve going to the heater core??
firs hold the bottle side ways second if you got a bleeder on your car you dont need this fancy funnel just add fluid to the top open the bleeder a lil bit let air out but nice car
That bmw e36 blowing out coolant... Been there, done that too many times
Uh, maybe stop taking the cap off while it's hot?... Just a thought idk maybe you don't think much...
@@sethdrak3 it blew various hoses off as it overheated because of air trapped in the system, try thinking before writing ignorant comments
@@RnGRacing buddy that still doesn't explain why you took the cap off when it was hot😂😂😂😂😂
@@sethdrak3 buddy I never said I took the cap off
@@RnGRacing 💀💀💀the video you were talking about was literally a 5 second clip of someone removing the reservoir/radiator cap and it exploding coolant from the pressure change 😂😂😂😂
Why cant we add a bleeder screw
03:50 Z 💀
“open up the heater core” ok
I don't have a funnel nor a bleeding valve, what should I do?
I had that happen before. It shot out so hard and hot for like a minute with steam and all the radiator fix crap I had in there. It was crazy. I was having overheating issues at the time.
Seriously thought there were tadpoles in your coolant from the thumbnail 😂
Nice! Now you can open the rad cap while at operating temp, since the coolants been flushed. Recommended to do so as soon as possible after vehicle is turned off!
Love the 3:50 Z, which was released by Nissan 20 minutes before the 3:70 Z
Full heat but lowest fan speed
What does it mean if coolant stops coming out of the bleeder all together, and its just steam?
Someone please answer this
Maybe it's just a Nissan thing I don't know but I topped mine off with the cap off and I've never had an explosion in 25 years of doing this
It's definitely a nissan 350z thing. I've done the coolant on my z this way before... still can have air in the system. I bought a refill evac tool to remedy this problem. Best $80 I ever spent.
Lol my 2003 ford focus just has a drain port at the bottom of the rad, unscrew the cap on the overflow and it all comes out the bottom.
How about on a 21 Acura? I just flushed my car, and filled it back up, using the same funnel, but now I’m only getting hot air on Hi setting? If I go down to say, 87, 86,even 75, my air goes to room temperature? I only get hot air on Hi. Any help would be great? Thanks
If you have access to an air compressor, but a vacuum filler. Makes it 100x easier
You can pour as much coolant as you want lol. That's what the funnel is for it burps itself
In some cars or situations a funnel won’t help. For example my Ford Galaxy overheated after a change with this funnel. I ended up buying a pressure based bleeding device to get a vacuum before filling up.
I just did my brothers Subaru, i filled it and let it idle and it overheated, texted one of the techs from work and asked him, he said throttle it when the thermostat opens and run heat on max, it definitely worked.
Filled my 95 Toyota Tacoma with 229k miles with hose water because I’ve been flushing the system or whatnot. I’ve replaced the thermostat and today I filled the coolant system up again and ran the truck at idle while adding water until it stopped bubbling. I put the cap on and drove it on and off all day. All of a sudden it just randomly overheated and blew a 4 inch crack in the top of the radiator right next to the pressure cap. I’m frustrated.
Hose water?? Are you being facetious?
I am no expert, but I think the hose water has minerals that can damage the insides of the car, so always use distilled water...
Thanks couldnt remember exacrlt how i did my g a coupl3 years ago, gotta repalce my atlenator so gonna have to bleeed my system a bit
"Crank the ac to full heat". That made me giggle.
Like a school girl !!
"crank A/C to full heat" 😂
ac = heating or cooling air. air "conditioning"
I work in HVAC and can confirm. 👍
Where do I buy the kit
I've heard the vq engines are fun trying to bleed the cooling system
the adapters never work right, u got the golden egg
this is stupid, 1 never open the radiator of a hot engine, and 2 you don't need to buy all that stuff. just fill the coolant keep the cap off of the radiator then start your engine, wait til the thermostate opens. then add more coolant close the cap of the radiator and fill the coolant reservoir and check on it from time to time
That trick don’t work on alot of these new vehicles
@@kellismith4329what about a 2001 saab?
Vacuum bleeder is better
There is safety tabs underneath cap to prevent it from shooting up and the hot fluid shoots downward. Don't ever turn cap all the way just loosen it
Never open a hot radiator. If you do keep.pressure on the cap those tabs arent reliable with the amount of pressure
Those funnels are stupid. Lots of cars have an angled fill neck. My cars manual literally tells you to park on a steep hill or jack the front end up to let air out of the cooling system. 1998 ford escort zx2.
Can I do the same with my Acura tl 2004
I had to burp the air out of my system today. I literally just used the coolant bottle and poured it in, turned car on and off and repeat. No more air no more overheating.
What happens if you only fill through the reservoir to the fill line and no more? That’s what a mechanic did to my car.
Vau so cool tech!
What about a reverse cooling system
That thing with the blue car also happened to me with my si
That’s just a typical e36 after a nice day of driving
Bro I’ve got the same head unit 👌
i just dump coolant and run my truck and just fill it up whenever it goes down lmao
Same. Never hurt any car I did it on.
Good idea!
"Open up the heater core"
Normal cars have always a way to purge the system, in this way i guess the air will never come all out.
Or vacuum refill and be done in 30 secs…
Crank the air conditioning to full heat. Gotcha.
I’ve used this on my E46. The closest cap for it is crap. I’m guessing you’ve used it on your E36.
only used it on my Z so far
Ericthecar guy taught you this didn’t he
On my BMW they used a plastic bleeder screw and I stg it's too easy to break. The first time bleeding the system the head snapped off and I had to replace the entire hose because now it was a coolant leak.
On my first e46 I bought the brass screw to replace the plastic one before it broke off
Crank our A/C to full heat…yeah let’s trust this guy to know what he’s talking about 💀😂
Did you drop out of middle school or something? Since thermal expansion seems to be a new concept to you.
@@Zaggy221 I meant to say “Full” you don’t turn on your Air Conditioner to get heat.
@@Zaggy221 also your heater core doesn’t “Heat up” 😂 The thermostat opens when the car gets to operating temperature 😂😂😂
@@tonycerini9306usually the heater core gets coolant flow right away before it enters the block, and gets recirculated constantly - the thermostat opens to allow coolant to flow from the block to the radiator once the engine is hot
@@kellismith4329 A heater isn’t the A/C guy
How does one "open up" their heater core?
When you turn your HVAC control to the hot setting, it opens a little valve that lets the hot coolant run through your heater core, otherwise it is closed off if it is set to cold
I always melted the solder out with a torch just like every other radiator repair man does..
Crank the ac or the HEATER ?
Ohhhh slowly.... Whoopps
AC to full heat??
you look like Kobe from the profile
Open up the heater core? IN WHAT WORLD ARE YOU LIVIN??
Some vehicles have diverter’s that bypass the core in non heat function
Electric water pump gang WYA?
Just get a vacuum bleeder. Dirt cheap and gets it done way easier and faster
Dirt cheap?? Like how cheap
@@Vanguard-gh8ov 40$
It is worthwhile getting one for sure, alot of systems are difficult to bleed - I have had too many hoses blow off etc from hot spots/air pockets
Good tutorial bad tutorial, if you speak so fast and move everything on speed forward is hard to understand every part.
Where can I buy the funnel kit
Lots of options on Amazon
When doing a coolant change at a Honda dealer, to get the air bubbles out they literally bounce off the limiter for over a minute. My friend sent me a video once and it’s was so funny
THE FORBIDDEN 350z GATORADE 🐊 🍹 😋
I like those funnels
Ah yes… AC to full heat
Yeah…
I’m just gonna get the mechanic to do it
In my Toyota I just squeeze the hose to bubble out the air. 11 years no problem
its a little different for each car, my car literally just took a shit on itself yesterday and this video helped me fix it lol
i just fill it up, let it warm up, top it up again, drive it for a couple minutes, let it cool, pop the cap and top it off.
It will not bleed properly if you do that. it will just be more coolant and air that would be in the cooling system
@@deluxegdm7435 never had a problem with that on my cars
Gotta love the old cars. My 81 mustang don't have air issues.
Dude added 40 steps