Great video, thanks. But this is so disappointing that these don't last more than 70k miles on avg. Honda Civic had 225k with no clutch issues. Time to rethink the manual transmission :(
I had to replace my accord clutch way sooner then 225K I am thinking of a crosstrek with a manual but I am afraid that by the time the clutch goes garages wont work on it
62k and mine just went a few days ago, i bought it at 59k-ish. mine isn't this bad, but I can hear it. No telling how the dude before me drove it, but 75k seems to be about normal for these unfortunately.
May get the whole shibang from rockauto. Just replaced the oem clutch with a Excedy clutch kit 18 months ago, includ t the rear main seal. $1800 dollars at a subaru only shop. I'm pissed
Just get the LUK repset as a baseline. You won't know if you need more until you get the transmission out. The repset comes with everything you need unless there are other defects.
i was just overthinking it. ended up getting a clutch kit from autozone (throwout bearing went out right in front of my shop). didnt have much choice on where to get parts in a hurry lol. ended up using an OE throwout bearing i had purchased a year prior instead of the autozone one. didnt end up needing anything that wasnt included in the kit. had the flywheel resurfaced (for peace of mind )same day.
Release bearings do that too. They tend to rattle when they get loose and applying alight pressure quiets the rattle down. I would suspect your chirp is similar to a rattle. Plan on doing the clutch kit.
i have a 2022 crosstrek, so far it seems like a decent vehicle. it is incredible performing on bad roads. i have the 6 speed manual and i am hoping i get atleast 100K out of the clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing. what can you say about the shifter linkage, i know it's cable driven..... does the length of the cable create a problem. also it looks like that car has seen some mud, maybe the clutch saw some abuse? currently my car only has 20K on it.
Well, just about everything front wheel/awd is a cable shifter so no big deal there. One cable does the front rear motion and one does the left right. So if the front rear cable was loose you may lose 1,3,5 engagement, or 2,4,6. Where if it was the left right cable you may lose 1,2 or 5,6 (I don't recall where reverse is. I wouldn't worry about it. Run it. They are pretty good cars if you maintain them. Don't go skipping oil changes.
@@paulkelley86 i do my own oil changes, at 4K. i used store branded (usually walmart supertech) full synthetic 0W20 oil.... i dont use the most expense oil BUT i am religious about the 4k oil change. the manufacture calls for 6K oil changes and i just think that's too long. i think im better off with the manual i have and not the CVT. i think it's a little more durable and certainly a more simplified unit.
Roughly 6-8 hours labor multiplied by shop labor rate which varies hugely. Low end here is $100 per hour, high end is over $200 per hour. Parts vary based on markup. They cost me $250 online. Your estimate window is huge. $1000-$2000 plus.
Paul Kelley How long have you been driving with squeak clutch? I have the same problem in my manual XV. Oem was exedy clutch? Is there any problem with starting the car on new clutch?
It wasn't mine, a friend/customers. Squeaking release bearing are fairly common. But it is not clear what are asking. If you have this noise how long can you drive it before it causes major damage? No one can answer that. This one was going to let go soon, like I don't think it would have lasted the day. But this is what I do for a living and have a lot of experience so I factor a lot of things when I say that. Just asking someone with a description of "squeak clutch"... whatever answer you get you might as well throw in the trash. They don't know, I don't know. And I have no idea what you mean by starting the car on a new clutch. Cranking it with the starter? Starting off moving? The engine won't start? Is the clutch disc new but not the rest of the parts as recommended in the kit like I did?
@@paulkelley86 I have the same noise i(dentical )when i'm hitting the clutch. The sound disappears when the clutch is pressed. For sure it is this bearning. So far I have no problems with driving and shifting gears. The question is how long can i ride with it ? I heard that non-oem clutches cause starting problems -the car shakes when letting go of the clutch
@@TheKarasso from the start of bearing failure to bearing seizing or exploding and causing more damage.... timeline unpredictable. All you can do is monitor for daily changes. Safest bet to fix it now. As for aftermarket clutch. Like the video shows, I recommend OEM but like you picked up exedy makes it for subaru. Subaru nor other manufacturers actually make the clutch parts. They purchase them from vendors and have it reboxed in a subaru box. Use an oem supplier. Exedy would be great LUK makes them too There are other brands, but basically use OEM or whoever makes the OEM. I don't typically recommend non OEM supplier aftermarket due to unpredictable issues. And I'm not pulling the transmission twice due to cheap parts. I don't even give customers the option. I'll just let someone else do the job twice for the price of one time. Same reason I do the entire kit. Not pulling the transmission in another month to replace the bearing I looked at and let stay in there, even if the customer asks for just the clutch disc and pressure plate. Not going to do it, do the whole kit or have someone else do it with risk of come back. Take the wisdom. It is not from a book or a forum. It is from the school of hard knocks.
@@paulkelley86 Thank you very much. I appreciate your advice. I will repair it right after Christmas . I have another question : does each clutch kit ( i want to buy exedy kit)includes this little small bearing ? Best Regards!
I hate luk throwout barrings now they must be junk I just replaced mine on my ranger 5000 miles ago with a new autozone transmission an duralast clutch an it is now rattling an squeaking when I push the clutch goes away when it’s not pushed in so annoying it’s second time I’ve changed it the last one lasted only 3000 miles like why would it fail so fast? I don’t get it it’s one of those internal hydraulic slave cylinder throwout barring
One theory is: you could have your clutch pedal to clutch master pushrod adjustment too long which will constantly put hydraulic pressure on the bearing (partially releasing the clutch) But my gut feeling is sub quality parts. No surprise on the duralast. But you sure the other one was a LUK? Also even brand new I notice they can be a little rattle sounding, my theory is they make the bearing clearance kind of loose so in the likely event clutch dust ends up inside it wouldn't cause it to seize or squeek as easily. My own theory, never got to discuss it with an engineer or anyone who could confirm. But for sure replaced them with OEM and noticed the rattle noise that decreases with the slightest pedal pressure. Good luck. The style you describe is called concentric slave cylinder.
@@paulkelley86 yes it is a luk it is the older design one that doesnt have the cover around it to keep dust out of it i try to use a duralast one but some how the fitting connection was different only one i could find that would work was luk from advanced auto parts
And deal with coolant and recharging AC? Maybe easier if you are working without a lift, but even still, gotta get the bellhousing bolts from the bottom.... I would pull the transaxle every time.
I usually pull the engine so I can do the oil pan gasket too.
Great video, thanks. But this is so disappointing that these don't last more than 70k miles on avg. Honda Civic had 225k with no clutch issues. Time to rethink the manual transmission :(
I had to replace my accord clutch way sooner then 225K I am thinking of a crosstrek with a manual but I am afraid that by the time the clutch goes garages wont work on it
Both pilot and throwout are going out at 137,000 miles. Gonna be a fun repair
62k and mine just went a few days ago, i bought it at 59k-ish. mine isn't this bad, but I can hear it. No telling how the dude before me drove it, but 75k seems to be about normal for these unfortunately.
16 Forster 6 Speed
Mine went out at 72k
I just hit 76k on my Impreza and it went out today.
Great vid , thanks
May get the whole shibang from rockauto. Just replaced the oem clutch with a Excedy clutch kit 18 months ago, includ t the rear main seal. $1800 dollars at a subaru only shop. I'm pissed
complete list of parts replaced would be much appreciated
Just get the LUK repset as a baseline. You won't know if you need more until you get the transmission out.
The repset comes with everything you need unless there are other defects.
i was just overthinking it. ended up getting a clutch kit from autozone (throwout bearing went out right in front of my shop). didnt have much choice on where to get parts in a hurry lol.
ended up using an OE throwout bearing i had purchased a year prior instead of the autozone one. didnt end up needing anything that wasnt included in the kit. had the flywheel resurfaced (for peace of mind )same day.
forgot to add. 2015 with 79k on it. rear wheel bearing is also starting to go (in case anyone is getting up there in mileage)
Hi what would be the opposite problem / fix .. chirpping on idle until you press down or slightly press down on clutch the chirp goes away ?
Release bearings do that too. They tend to rattle when they get loose and applying alight pressure quiets the rattle down. I would suspect your chirp is similar to a rattle. Plan on doing the clutch kit.
Just found this. 2006 sti same problem. Draw out bearing or clutch fork no bueno
This video was intense with that E
i have a 2022 crosstrek, so far it seems like a decent vehicle. it is incredible performing on bad roads. i have the 6 speed manual and i am hoping i get atleast 100K out of the clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing. what can you say about the shifter linkage, i know it's cable driven..... does the length of the cable create a problem. also it looks like that car has seen some mud, maybe the clutch saw some abuse? currently my car only has 20K on it.
Well, just about everything front wheel/awd is a cable shifter so no big deal there.
One cable does the front rear motion and one does the left right.
So if the front rear cable was loose you may lose 1,3,5 engagement, or 2,4,6. Where if it was the left right cable you may lose 1,2 or 5,6 (I don't recall where reverse is.
I wouldn't worry about it. Run it. They are pretty good cars if you maintain them. Don't go skipping oil changes.
@@paulkelley86 i do my own oil changes, at 4K. i used store branded (usually walmart supertech) full synthetic 0W20 oil.... i dont use the most expense oil BUT i am religious about the 4k oil change. the manufacture calls for 6K oil changes and i just think that's too long.
i think im better off with the manual i have and not the CVT. i think it's a little more durable and certainly a more simplified unit.
@@andrewdonohue1853 all that sounds fine/accurate.
How much for this repair cost in total? Rough estimate?
Roughly 6-8 hours labor multiplied by shop labor rate which varies hugely. Low end here is $100 per hour, high end is over $200 per hour. Parts vary based on markup. They cost me $250 online. Your estimate window is huge. $1000-$2000 plus.
10 hours for a sti in ct
*I had the same thing with my 2016 Crosstrek the clutch pedal stuck and won't return. It happened 152k miles*
amazing!
Paul Kelley How long have you been driving with squeak clutch? I have the same problem in my manual XV. Oem was exedy clutch? Is there any problem with starting the car on new clutch?
It wasn't mine, a friend/customers.
Squeaking release bearing are fairly common. But it is not clear what are asking.
If you have this noise how long can you drive it before it causes major damage? No one can answer that. This one was going to let go soon, like I don't think it would have lasted the day. But this is what I do for a living and have a lot of experience so I factor a lot of things when I say that. Just asking someone with a description of "squeak clutch"... whatever answer you get you might as well throw in the trash. They don't know, I don't know. And I have no idea what you mean by starting the car on a new clutch. Cranking it with the starter? Starting off moving? The engine won't start? Is the clutch disc new but not the rest of the parts as recommended in the kit like I did?
@@paulkelley86 I have the same noise i(dentical )when i'm hitting the clutch. The sound disappears when the clutch is pressed. For sure it is this bearning. So far I have no problems with driving and shifting gears. The question is how long can i ride with it ? I heard that non-oem clutches cause starting problems -the car shakes when letting go of the clutch
@@TheKarasso from the start of bearing failure to bearing seizing or exploding and causing more damage.... timeline unpredictable. All you can do is monitor for daily changes. Safest bet to fix it now.
As for aftermarket clutch. Like the video shows, I recommend OEM but like you picked up exedy makes it for subaru. Subaru nor other manufacturers actually make the clutch parts. They purchase them from vendors and have it reboxed in a subaru box.
Use an oem supplier.
Exedy would be great
LUK makes them too
There are other brands, but basically use OEM or whoever makes the OEM.
I don't typically recommend non OEM supplier aftermarket due to unpredictable issues. And I'm not pulling the transmission twice due to cheap parts. I don't even give customers the option. I'll just let someone else do the job twice for the price of one time. Same reason I do the entire kit. Not pulling the transmission in another month to replace the bearing I looked at and let stay in there, even if the customer asks for just the clutch disc and pressure plate. Not going to do it, do the whole kit or have someone else do it with risk of come back.
Take the wisdom. It is not from a book or a forum. It is from the school of hard knocks.
@@paulkelley86 Thank you very much. I appreciate your advice.
I will repair it right after Christmas . I have another question : does each clutch kit ( i want to buy exedy kit)includes this little small bearing ? Best Regards!
Depends on the clutch kit Exedy stage 1 is oem compatible. Stage 2 gives you a stiffer clutch pedal feel
I hate luk throwout barrings now they must be junk I just replaced mine on my ranger 5000 miles ago with a new autozone transmission an duralast clutch an it is now rattling an squeaking when I push the clutch goes away when it’s not pushed in so annoying it’s second time I’ve changed it the last one lasted only 3000 miles like why would it fail so fast? I don’t get it it’s one of those internal hydraulic slave cylinder throwout barring
One theory is: you could have your clutch pedal to clutch master pushrod adjustment too long which will constantly put hydraulic pressure on the bearing (partially releasing the clutch)
But my gut feeling is sub quality parts. No surprise on the duralast. But you sure the other one was a LUK?
Also even brand new I notice they can be a little rattle sounding, my theory is they make the bearing clearance kind of loose so in the likely event clutch dust ends up inside it wouldn't cause it to seize or squeek as easily. My own theory, never got to discuss it with an engineer or anyone who could confirm. But for sure replaced them with OEM and noticed the rattle noise that decreases with the slightest pedal pressure.
Good luck. The style you describe is called concentric slave cylinder.
@@paulkelley86 yes it is a luk it is the older design one that doesnt have the cover around it to keep dust out of it i try to use a duralast one but some how the fitting connection was different only one i could find that would work was luk from advanced auto parts
What brand clutch did you go with?
Luk repset
@@paulkelley86 I put a new luk clutch kit 4 days ago but throw out bearing was making a noise I put a new t/o and still the same noise
@@illuminatikid4767you sure it was the throw out bearing? Describe the noise
*She is doing the same to me*
*What's the cost of fixing all that **#clutch*
its way easier to pull the engine for clutch replace on a Subaru
And deal with coolant and recharging AC? Maybe easier if you are working without a lift, but even still, gotta get the bellhousing bolts from the bottom.... I would pull the transaxle every time.