I’ve never fought something in my life as much as I had to fight this lower control arm. The arm would not for the life of me go into the frame correctly. Ended up using a ratchet strap around the sway bar and subframe to pull the arm in. After I got the bolt in the first half, I used the ratchet strap around the arm and the other side of the subframe and pulled it in the rest of the way. This was on a SW, but the sway bar should be the same. It was a complete pain in the ass.
"It's that simple." LOL. Yeah, right. Among countless other jobs, I've done a couple sets of lower control arms (LCA's), and even with a winch strap taking the tension off the sway bar (which he apparently didn't use), it can be a battle. They did not come apart or reassemble as "simple" and "easy" as what is shown in this video. Each of the three attachment points for the LCA can be a PITA to take apart and get back together. For those about to do this job, I recommend watching several of these LCA how-to videos made by different people and combine their demos into what works best in your individual situation. I've seen several variations for which point to attach first, second, and third during reassembly. It can be a wrestling match.
I Use a winch & hook up on the sway bar & the other end of winch on the opposite side of cruddlel /cross member. To increase tension & move arm into position to insert a bolt ! Yes I use a chain hook it around the sway bar then attach hook, to winch with its other side hook attached to other side of cruddle/cross member then winch it tight to bring arm into postion to insert bolt trough cruddle attachment point. The whole suspension tightens because of that method !
Fantastic job! What ever camarer equipment you have you used to the fullest for all of us who have watched this! The close ups are what made this so great. Thank you.
If you got that control arm in without using a ratcheting cable puller or similar on the sway bar, you got a more serious problem than a bad ball joint. It is important to have the sway bar centered in the bushing.
Thanks for response :) Well, been a ASE Certified mechanic over 25 Years now & if you look on the internet, there are a select few who make repair videos for vehicles :( These cars are no longer being made and people want to keep them running. When you get one that gets 40-45 Mpg you want to keep it on the road. Not only that, they are easy to work on. Takes about 5-6 hours of video editing per video, but it's worth it..
Here in Minnesota we have to use a lot of Pats Buster or Liquid Wrench on the bolt/nut securing the lower control arm to the frame. The removal can take hours. If you have air tools you can use a blunt end chisel. (Leave the nut attached to the bolt to prevent damaging the threads.) If you find it necessary to replace the nut or bolt make sure to buy it from the dealer. These pats are hardened. Getting the nut started should be easy but it may seem like it is cross threaded as you tighten. This is because either the nut or bolt is slightly elliptical. That is how they get away without using a lock washer.
You are a SAINT...Thank you very much. I have a 1995 and 2001 SL-1s. My wifes 2001 has 62,000 miles and my 1995 has 122,000 miles. They both are still really tight and in decent shape. We live in SC. They get 42 plus mpg. and no car payments are great. I do odd jobs and have a mini machine shop. I still have one yr. to go before retirement. My wife is a drafter. We get by fairly good,but if we didn't have the Saturns we would have to eat cat food.Honestly.
I already posted a thank you and great video comment on your tie rod end video earlier, but, you're instruction is super valuable to me! thanks again FiremanCV!! Please let me know how I can contribute financially to your self-help video endeavors. Cheers!
Where did you place your jacks? I see you have one under the center of the engine area. But where else. I'm having a hard time getting my Control Arm installed.
What does the car do to make you think you need to replace the ball joint? My saturn makes a popping sound/feel when turning at slow speeds. Would this be a ball joint or an axle issue? Or something else?
@11:40 Sorry, that ball joint DID NOT last 200K, it was wasted. On paved roads you might get 60-70K out of em. Don't wait till their toast. On this job your sway bar is the enemy, you need to compress it, ratchet straps work fine, or a come-along. When you compress the sway bar.
I’ve never fought something in my life as much as I had to fight this lower control arm. The arm would not for the life of me go into the frame correctly. Ended up using a ratchet strap around the sway bar and subframe to pull the arm in. After I got the bolt in the first half, I used the ratchet strap around the arm and the other side of the subframe and pulled it in the rest of the way. This was on a SW, but the sway bar should be the same. It was a complete pain in the ass.
"It's that simple." LOL. Yeah, right. Among countless other jobs, I've done a couple sets of lower control arms (LCA's), and even with a winch strap taking the tension off the sway bar (which he apparently didn't use), it can be a battle. They did not come apart or reassemble as "simple" and "easy" as what is shown in this video. Each of the three attachment points for the LCA can be a PITA to take apart and get back together. For those about to do this job, I recommend watching several of these LCA how-to videos made by different people and combine their demos into what works best in your individual situation. I've seen several variations for which point to attach first, second, and third during reassembly. It can be a wrestling match.
This is what I did and like he said "its that simple" once you have the ratchet strap lol
I Use a winch & hook up on the sway bar & the other end of winch on the opposite side of cruddlel /cross member.
To increase tension & move arm into position to insert a bolt !
Yes I use a chain hook it around the sway bar then attach hook, to winch with its other side hook attached to other side of
cruddle/cross member then winch it tight to bring arm into postion to insert bolt trough cruddle attachment point.
The whole suspension tightens because of that method !
Fantastic job! What ever camarer equipment you have you used to the fullest for all of us who have watched this! The close ups are what made this so great. Thank you.
i knew alot of this already but you are one great refresher course...thanks guy
If you got that control arm in without using a ratcheting cable puller or similar on the sway bar, you got a more serious problem than a bad ball joint. It is important to have the sway bar centered in the bushing.
Awesome job, made easy work of fixing mine after watching you.
Thanks for posting this! I feel pretty confident I can do this now!
you're welcome
Good stuff thanks for sharing. Gonna tackle mine this weekend.
it's funny you should mention that I have to do one this weekend myself. lol
Thanks im doing boths sides tomorrow on our ion.
Thanks for response :)
Well, been a ASE Certified mechanic over 25 Years now & if you look on the internet, there are a select few who make repair videos for vehicles :(
These cars are no longer being made and people want to keep them running.
When you get one that gets 40-45 Mpg you want to keep it on the road.
Not only that, they are easy to work on.
Takes about 5-6 hours of video editing per video, but it's worth it..
How did you get away with not using a ratchet strap to hold the sway bar In place? Doing this job very soon on my Saturn on both sides
@@simonkisner3401 I just used a prybar :)
What about the full bolts on the sub frame don’t have to come out
Awesome video, thank you so much, you are a live saver.
Aw man your videos are just so helpful!!
Here in Minnesota we have to use a lot of Pats Buster or Liquid Wrench on the bolt/nut securing the lower control arm to the frame. The removal can take hours. If you have air tools you can use a blunt end chisel. (Leave the nut attached to the bolt to prevent damaging the threads.) If you find it necessary to replace the nut or bolt make sure to buy it from the dealer. These pats are hardened. Getting the nut started should be easy but it may seem like it is cross threaded as you tighten. This is because either the nut or bolt is slightly elliptical. That is how they get away without using a lock washer.
FiremanCV, thank you so much for your videos on Saturn S series, you save me a great deal of money.
Keep the good work !
Luis Barrios
You are a SAINT...Thank you very much. I have a 1995 and 2001 SL-1s. My wifes 2001 has 62,000 miles and my 1995 has 122,000 miles. They both are still really tight and in decent shape. We live in SC. They get 42 plus mpg. and no car payments are great. I do odd jobs and have a mini machine shop. I still have one yr. to go before retirement. My wife is a drafter. We get by fairly good,but if we didn't have the Saturns we would have to eat cat food.Honestly.
Thank You, this is really In depth and in detail thank you so much.
You are a very good teacher, sir!
Thanks for the great video! After replacing the control arm, should I take it in to have a front end wheel alignment?
I already posted a thank you and great video comment on your tie rod end video earlier, but, you're instruction is super valuable to me! thanks again FiremanCV!! Please let me know how I can contribute financially to your self-help video endeavors. Cheers!
Need a video on a saturn sc1 steering box change out, please help !
swissskier03
what year do you have ?
2000 sc1 with power steering rack and pinion
Nobody fitd ball joints with grease fittings today-why? Would they last longer?
Where did you place your jacks? I see you have one under the center of the engine area. But where else. I'm having a hard time getting my Control Arm installed.
I can't get the hole to line up for the bolt on the frame, I have almost 0 wiggle room. I followed the video to a T.
excellent Video. Well done.
what a great video, very good job. Thank you.
Good video, except I had to use a clamp on the swag bar to get the bolt in at the frame. Other than that good.
Try using a flat screw driver to open a cotter pin. then it is easier to bend
thanks for the helpful information.
What does the car do to make you think you need to replace the ball joint? My saturn makes a popping sound/feel when turning at slow speeds. Would this be a ball joint or an axle issue? Or something else?
So you put the bushing bolt in before the ball bearing bolt... That would have saved me some time
@11:40 Sorry, that ball joint DID NOT last 200K, it was wasted. On paved roads you might get 60-70K out of em. Don't wait till their toast.
On this job your sway bar is the enemy, you need to compress it, ratchet straps work fine, or a come-along. When you compress the sway bar.
... getting the bolt thru the body side is easy.
Correct ! So Use a winch & hook up on the sway bar & the other end of winch on the opposite side of cruddlel /cross member.
awesome, thank you. now i can fix my car, thanks for the example.
guys... it's that simple
Thanks for the nice vdo!
you must have alot of patience to work on cars and make a video at the same time.