I agree! here's my experience with damaging (not snapping) 3 fingers on each hand in August from overuse/too much crimping 5 days a week: -Taping I did first, but I found that it decreased blood circulation and allowed me to climb harder than I would be able to (which in turn damaged my fingers more) - I tried full rest for 3 weeks, found that every time i attempted climbing after that my fingers were throbbing - I found that my personality doesnt do well with "not going hard" so i decided to explore different ways of strengthening : Yoga to improve flexibility and cycling for leg and core strength = ie Full rest of fingers -when I tried climbing again 4 months later i still felt throbbing after climbing, so i went to see a specialist- he did xray and oddly enough ultrasound on my hands (for scar tissue or something) and said not tendonitis and that the ligaments had micro tears of some sort (honestly he was just doing an elimination process because no one knew what the fucj was goin on), I would highly recommend you go see an orthopedic if you hear a popping or experience massive pain after a session. but what he told me was exactly what mani said, try to introduce climbing back, going easy 1-2 times a week no more than an hour, and easy holds. Again, if you're not that type of person to take it easy, i found that keeping an eye out for STEMY CLIMBS like corner ones that use the wall or the arete, are excellent to go hard on because you can get away with using your palms and strengthening your legs massively. Also climbs where you have to trust your feet (smears) or super balancey, are excellent to get good on. because those are skills that helped give me the edge to achieve my handful of v6s and a first v7 yesterday. My hands arent even perfect yet. I still shy from crimps out of fear but i feel them getting better and the rest of me getting stronger. I remember it was really heartbreaking not being able to climb as i love it so much, so i want to share this so that someone can benefit and not feel stuck and defeated! Work on those weird climbs and make up your own weird climbing beta to avoid the finger. you can even check out shauna coxsey's instagram for inspiration, she climbed one handed for months because of a pulley injury and the vids are dope!
Totally relate to this. Been four months now that I started getting swelling of the large knuckle of the middle finger. Two months total rest did nothing major for healing the finger. I have started climbing again now. I try to keep it to easy stuff but those tricky climbs are just too tempting sometimes - this is always detrimental and the swelling comes back. So I agree that one must try to keep to easy climbs and that this moderate exercise helps the tissue to heal. I'm glad to see someone else with a similar experience. So frustrating!! I have actually started taping in between sessions as a sort of splint because even things like doing my laces up can sometimes tweak the knuckle and cause the swelling to come back. I admit I havent yet been to see a specialist but given the swelling but no real acute pain as such I believe that I have climbers finger and some kind of damage to the capsule of my knuckle joint. Annoyingly one particular session where I pushed it too hard brought about the same swelling on the index finger. I think it was compensating for the weaker middle finger. So from now on, its easy climbs and climbs that put more emphasis on positions and legs as you suggest Zoe. I'd been interested to know how you're getting on now.
Although you're not a heavy user of tape, I might have a few helpful tips: When applying the 8-tape bend your finger slightly. By that the tape restricts the finger from overstretching and therefore supports the capsule, if thats what troubles you. When using the rings or the H-Tape, do not attach them on the pulleys but behind (A2) or before (A4) them - basically always next to the PIP joint. That way the tape helps to keep the flexor tendons closer to the bone in those parts of the finger, where they are not supported by the pulleys, which will reduce the work the A2, A3 and A4 need to do. It is a bit like adding another pulley to the system.The tapes you applied where stretched out a bit to far. It still might help, but it is always the best to keep the taped up parts minimal. Anyway, great video like always. Cheeers, Ralf P.S. Falls nicht ganz klar geworden ist, was ich meine, erklär ich es auch gern noch mal auf Deutsch. Fällt mir wahrscheinlich leichter. Aber da der Channel ja auf Englisch gehalten ist. ;)
Total rest for my ring finger A2 pulley injury/soreness hasn't worked for me either...I gave it almost two weeks of total rest to heal up where pressing the pulley wasn't sore or tender anymore...but then coming back to bouldering (even at a lower intensity) still caused soreness by the end of the session. So my strategy is to openhand grip everything to keep the muscle/tendon strength etc. while still stressing the pulley a little to activate healing/getting stronger, but not too much to cause any further damage. Seems to be going well so far. You've got an awesome channel btw!
It worked great! But it did take a while (4 months) to get back to pushing my limits again without any tenderness whatsoever - which has been true for the past month which feels great! Ligaments just seem to take quite a while to fully heal. Once I started true openhanding everything (with no/little bend at PIP joint - for me to get this I had to drop the pinkie and just use front-3 fingers) it took two weeks before there was no tenderness at the end of each session. So then I started to slowly add back in the half-crimp until my A2 got a little tender - here I was trying to stress the A2 a little to keep pushing it a little to get stronger. So I'd half-crimp during a problem, then press it to see if it's getting tender. I usually did this towards the end of a session and once it started to get tender I would end the session. Within two months I was back doing the same grade of problems I was doing before with just a little tenderness at the end and usually gone by the next day. But it did take 4 months get back to pushing my max without any tenderness whatsoever. All the best with your recovery!
Awesome video and caveats. My experience is that with overuse injuries - e.g. joint inflammation at the middle joint - I can hang board 3 days a weak, including crimp, and recover...but I cannot boulder hard. The hang board routine allows for careful measure of being in the "pain free" zone, while bouldering is much riskier since mid-route it is hard to calibrate. Given hang boarding might be a more productive way to gain strength, this is a good use of mild injury time. When you do boulder, I am taking the approach of only doing routes 2-3 letter grades below my limit and focusing on technique and other abilities rather than strength development.
I really appreciate all your videos brother, Very helpful. I'm dealing with a minor pinky injury i say minor because it doesn't hurt at all unless i actually try to crimp something like my table for example just to test out the pain. I'm not exactly sure how to go about taping it but i will try your methods. Thanks for all the great vids and info. keep up the great work!
Good video! I used to be one of the people who can't pull themselves together. My solution to this was to define some rules for a maximum amount of training volume and intensity that I didn't exceed. Helped me get rid of golfer's elbow and messed up wrists on both arms sucessfully. To me the most valuable information to do this was the minimum amount of training that I can get away with without getting weaker. This helped me find the "perfect" middle ground between resting and training. Also, in my experience, with that approach I usually had really good progress as soon as I could start proper training again, as the additional training is kind of a "new" stimulus. BTW, I feel the same way about overuse injuries. Using exessive amounts of tape makes you dependent on it in the long run, so I try to keep it to a minimum.
Great vid man ! I have had gradual a2 pain in my ring finger that gets worse and worse. It’s definitely chronic no acute injury. I’m gonna climb lower intensity for a month and see if my pain goes away.
Had a broken bone from Bicycle Accident. Surgery and total rest for 2 months, then some careful exercise for 1 month to rebuild strength. Now im back to climbing, it worked well like this.
The same happened to me - In November I broke a bone between the wrist and the pinky finger, fortunately without any displacements of the bone structure. My whole hand was plastered for a month, except for the first three fingers, and a little bit of the ring finger. So when they removed the plaster in December, I couldn't move my pinky at all. Now it's the beginning of February and I can move it without any trouble. However, I still feel pain if I squeeze the finger, and the finger is especially stiff in the morning or if I've forgotten to move it during the day. I've been swimming since 2 weeks or so after they removed the plaster, so I'm doing some exercise of the upper body part, however nothing apart from that (and running if that counts). I'm thinking of focusing more on upper body exercises that are not using the wrist/fingers and then starting climbing again, but with easy routes, with main focus on the legs and using the hands only for a support. Using the fingers more when I see how it goes when some time passes. Do you guys think this approach is okay? Should I use any plaster or do anything else? I don't think it's okay to use it cause I won't be able to feel well if I should stop and take a break. However, I was wondering whether I should limit the pinky and ring fingers at the beginning so that I don't use them when I'm back to climbing.
I agree with bouldering less, if at all. I also sport climb 5-6 grades under my limit and avoid crimpy climbs. I am able to climb the same length of time and really work on technique instead of increasing my rating.
@ManiTheMonkey I wanted to share a little trick I came up with for a more efficient taping method. I basically use the H method but instead of cutting the tape up to the middle from both sides (which makes things a bit complicated to then apply it around your finger) I make a small cut, about 2 to 3cm on one side and cut a long on on the other stopping at about 1cm away from the short cut. What this methods improves is that it's easier to tape your fingers and it stays better even after a long climbing season. Also doesn't need to be re-taped on top like Volker shows on his videos. I know almost nothing about climbing I literally just started but your videos did help a lot, I hope this becomes useful to you! Thanks ;)
Thanks for your tips Mani, you are a legend. Strained A2 by bouldering in the gym without resting adequately. Been climbing and and stopping when i have pain and my open crimps are getting strong but i am having trouble with pain when gripping jugs, even on super easy routes. It's probably a technique issue and I was wondering if you have any advice to get me raising my grade on juggy overhung climbs?
Love your videos, What is your opinion on using creams like antihydral to increase skin friction? And do you use chalk with a drying agent? Many thanks, keep up the good work.
Hey Manni! What do you do when your muscles can handle your climbing, but your sinews need more time to get stronger in order to get to your muscles level?
I seem to get a pain in the fingertips under the nail, its that feeling of the tips of my fingers being squashed and then the next day or two after, any pressure on the end is sore - cant find any information on what this could be or what could help prevent it. does anyone have any ideas
Why does taping help to support tendons? I don't quite get it. The weight of your body is still on tendons. Not on tape. This looks a placebo method for me because I do know how it feels. Or I'm missing something?
@@zraybroske2416 I think you mean to say Annular Pulleys, not Flexor Tendons. Flexor Tendons are precisely what transmit force from the forearm flexor muscle to the phalanges. Otherwise your bandaid metaphor is great! Cheers! @dirtysouthclimber
I think it also depends on how long you have been climbing. A new climber with weak tendons probably would benefit from some resting and then coming back slowly with pain free climbing. any thoughts on that?
A good point. As a new climber one is usually progressing fast, and a lot of strength gains occur. As mentioned in the prevention episode: Take care if you've gotten stronger.
How is there no info nowhere on this skin issue that everyone has, you know, when your skin does a hole under one of the joints so its painfull to bend the finger or do a "fist" ? Its always right in the midle of a joint, where the finger bends. How do you avoid this ? And how do you cure it ?
A two weeks rest once a year (doesn't necessarily need to be the end of the year) is definitely a good idea, especially if you're having a progression oriented approach to the sport thus do lots of training.
I broke my 4rth metacarpal 3 months ago I'm back into climbing with a bit of pain. Do you know other similar cases and any advice for rehab? Thanks, love your channel!!
Great Video man. I have one question to you (but also to all other climbers here). I climb since one year now and maybe 4 or 5 weeks back i started with more difficult climbs (i climbed UIAA 5+ - 6+ and now i try routes in the 7th grade and sometimes a little higher.) So the gripps become smaller and more negative. So do you think it is a good idea to use tape to prevent injuries? Or should i progress slower? Or is it even a problem to progress as fast as i do? I ask because since i focus more on the technic (alot from your video's;-) ) i progress alot faster. Maybe anyone can help me
Great to hear the technique videos do their job ;) I would definitely not use tape to prevent injury (except for some surface/skin stuff maybe), rather I would go with the second option and progress slower. As mentioned in the injury prevention video: Take care if you're getting stronger, and thus progressing fast. Give your body some time to catch up. Ultimately you have to decide what that means for your climbing and training now, always listen to your body.
You would be better off slowing down the process, if you have a feeling that you might hurt yourself. Taping really isn't something you should use when it comes to injury prevention, except from rare occassions. (e.g.you need to hold an sharp pocket that cuts your skin). Theoretically it is possible to use tape to reduce the strain you put on the inner structures of your finger, but that would contradict the idea of training because you need that strain in order to get stronger. Hence taping might help you scale a difficult route but at the same time will keep your fingers from adopting correctly. Ultimatly this could lead to injuries when you start hanging on the same small holds without tape. Just take your time, train with reason and remember that climbing is not all about the grades. ;)
The campus board is destroying my finger skin. I've added one day a week right before a couple days off of rest but it is overwhelming my healing process. I've not gotten carried away and have followed all your campus advice but I'm just not sure my skin is cut out for it.
hey, i think i got a tear in my tendon from climbing. When i was on the wall on a small crimp i think i heared a little pop or a little tear, i forsure felt something. i can still use my finger, but when i load it on it's own it hurts like crazy. hanging from all my fingers is completely fine though. would you recommend still climbing but just easier stuff that doesn't hurt? because i don't want to sit here doing nothing in my vacation. Thanks in advance.
Mani, when writing them down you mix up short term with long term injuries. You talk about it how you mean to,but then you write that you can climb on a blown pulley, but must not climb at all on a ruptured pulley, which is the opposite of what you are saying when this is happening. Just wanted to point it out. :)
Weare you ever not able to bend one or more fingers in the morning? I cant and i have been at doc and PT and after few months not muc changed. Massaging top of the finger and hand helps, is it possible it is antagonist injury?
I think there is some additional things worth noting, one being diet,, hydration, also herbs. There are healing herbs that help treat musculoskeletal injuries, and all climbers should be familiar with these herbs. Arnica, Comfrey, Calendula, Solomon's Seal, St. John's Wort; all carry a quality to promote healing in bone, ligaments, skin, tendons, or even prevents inflammation, and pain when used externally as a salve.
Seriously, this is the best climbing channel on TH-cam. Hands down. Keep it up, brother!
Thanks man, I really appreciate that :) I will!
I agree! here's my experience with damaging (not snapping) 3 fingers on each hand in August from overuse/too much crimping 5 days a week:
-Taping I did first, but I found that it decreased blood circulation and allowed me to climb harder than I would be able to (which in turn damaged my fingers more)
- I tried full rest for 3 weeks, found that every time i attempted climbing after that my fingers were throbbing
- I found that my personality doesnt do well with "not going hard" so i decided to explore different ways of strengthening : Yoga to improve flexibility and cycling for leg and core strength = ie Full rest of fingers
-when I tried climbing again 4 months later i still felt throbbing after climbing, so i went to see a specialist- he did xray and oddly enough ultrasound on my hands (for scar tissue or something) and said not tendonitis and that the ligaments had micro tears of some sort (honestly he was just doing an elimination process because no one knew what the fucj was goin on), I would highly recommend you go see an orthopedic if you hear a popping or experience massive pain after a session.
but what he told me was exactly what mani said, try to introduce climbing back, going easy 1-2 times a week no more than an hour, and easy holds.
Again, if you're not that type of person to take it easy, i found that keeping an eye out for STEMY CLIMBS like corner ones that use the wall or the arete, are excellent to go hard on because you can get away with using your palms and strengthening your legs massively. Also climbs where you have to trust your feet (smears) or super balancey, are excellent to get good on. because those are skills that helped give me the edge to achieve my handful of v6s and a first v7 yesterday. My hands arent even perfect yet. I still shy from crimps out of fear but i feel them getting better and the rest of me getting stronger.
I remember it was really heartbreaking not being able to climb as i love it so much, so i want to share this so that someone can benefit and not feel stuck and defeated! Work on those weird climbs and make up your own weird climbing beta to avoid the finger. you can even check out shauna coxsey's instagram for inspiration, she climbed one handed for months because of a pulley injury and the vids are dope!
Totally relate to this. Been four months now that I started getting swelling of the large knuckle of the middle finger. Two months total rest did nothing major for healing the finger. I have started climbing again now. I try to keep it to easy stuff but those tricky climbs are just too tempting sometimes - this is always detrimental and the swelling comes back. So I agree that one must try to keep to easy climbs and that this moderate exercise helps the tissue to heal. I'm glad to see someone else with a similar experience. So frustrating!! I have actually started taping in between sessions as a sort of splint because even things like doing my laces up can sometimes tweak the knuckle and cause the swelling to come back. I admit I havent yet been to see a specialist but given the swelling but no real acute pain as such I believe that I have climbers finger and some kind of damage to the capsule of my knuckle joint. Annoyingly one particular session where I pushed it too hard brought about the same swelling on the index finger. I think it was compensating for the weaker middle finger. So from now on, its easy climbs and climbs that put more emphasis on positions and legs as you suggest Zoe. I'd been interested to know how you're getting on now.
Although you're not a heavy user of tape, I might have a few helpful tips: When applying the 8-tape bend your finger slightly. By that the tape restricts the finger from overstretching and therefore supports the capsule, if thats what troubles you. When using the rings or the H-Tape, do not attach them on the pulleys but behind (A2) or before (A4) them - basically always next to the PIP joint. That way the tape helps to keep the flexor tendons closer to the bone in those parts of the finger, where they are not supported by the pulleys, which will reduce the work the A2, A3 and A4 need to do. It is a bit like adding another pulley to the system.The tapes you applied where stretched out a bit to far. It still might help, but it is always the best to keep the taped up parts minimal.
Anyway, great video like always.
Cheeers,
Ralf
P.S. Falls nicht ganz klar geworden ist, was ich meine, erklär ich es auch gern noch mal auf Deutsch. Fällt mir wahrscheinlich leichter. Aber da der Channel ja auf Englisch gehalten ist. ;)
Keep up the good work man I look forward to each video you release
Total rest for my ring finger A2 pulley injury/soreness hasn't worked for me either...I gave it almost two weeks of total rest to heal up where pressing the pulley wasn't sore or tender anymore...but then coming back to bouldering (even at a lower intensity) still caused soreness by the end of the session. So my strategy is to openhand grip everything to keep the muscle/tendon strength etc. while still stressing the pulley a little to activate healing/getting stronger, but not too much to cause any further damage. Seems to be going well so far. You've got an awesome channel btw!
Thanks for sharing your experience. Your strategy is EXACTLY how it should be done in my opinion. You'll be back on track soon ;)
It worked great! But it did take a while (4 months) to get back to pushing my limits again without any tenderness whatsoever - which has been true for the past month which feels great! Ligaments just seem to take quite a while to fully heal.
Once I started true openhanding everything (with no/little bend at PIP joint - for me to get this I had to drop the pinkie and just use front-3 fingers) it took two weeks before there was no tenderness at the end of each session. So then I started to slowly add back in the half-crimp until my A2 got a little tender - here I was trying to stress the A2 a little to keep pushing it a little to get stronger. So I'd half-crimp during a problem, then press it to see if it's getting tender. I usually did this towards the end of a session and once it started to get tender I would end the session.
Within two months I was back doing the same grade of problems I was doing before with just a little tenderness at the end and usually gone by the next day. But it did take 4 months get back to pushing my max without any tenderness whatsoever. All the best with your recovery!
When you were trying to slight stress your A2, did you have it taped up?
Awesome video and caveats. My experience is that with overuse injuries - e.g. joint inflammation at the middle joint - I can hang board 3 days a weak, including crimp, and recover...but I cannot boulder hard. The hang board routine allows for careful measure of being in the "pain free" zone, while bouldering is much riskier since mid-route it is hard to calibrate. Given hang boarding might be a more productive way to gain strength, this is a good use of mild injury time. When you do boulder, I am taking the approach of only doing routes 2-3 letter grades below my limit and focusing on technique and other abilities rather than strength development.
Has your inflammation stopped at this point?? Very curious I can't get rid of my joint inflammation
Hi Manuel. Thanks for consistently sharing the secrets. Do you have any plans on making a shoulder injury video?
Thanks again.
I'm glad it's appreciated, and yes, definitely.
Very nice! Just what I was looking for! Thanks a lot, again!
Was a pleasure to me!
I really appreciate all your videos brother, Very helpful. I'm dealing with a minor pinky injury i say minor because it doesn't hurt at all unless i actually try to crimp something like my table for example just to test out the pain. I'm not exactly sure how to go about taping it but i will try your methods. Thanks for all the great vids and info. keep up the great work!
thank you for this video, I really like this approach.
Good video! I used to be one of the people who can't pull themselves together. My solution to this was to define some rules for a maximum amount of training volume and intensity that I didn't exceed. Helped me get rid of golfer's elbow and messed up wrists on both arms sucessfully. To me the most valuable information to do this was the minimum amount of training that I can get away with without getting weaker. This helped me find the "perfect" middle ground between resting and training. Also, in my experience, with that approach I usually had really good progress as soon as I could start proper training again, as the additional training is kind of a "new" stimulus. BTW, I feel the same way about overuse injuries. Using exessive amounts of tape makes you dependent on it in the long run, so I try to keep it to a minimum.
Great to hear you could heal up your stuff, golfer's and wrists can be a pain in the ass. Thanks for sharing your story and opinion!
Vegan Rockclimbing Always welcome, thanks for the video!
Great vid man ! I have had gradual a2 pain in my ring finger that gets worse and worse. It’s definitely chronic no acute injury. I’m gonna climb lower intensity for a month and see if my pain goes away.
Perfect timing. Thanks.
No problem, glad it helped.
Vegan Rockclimbing it surely did and is helping right now.
Had a broken bone from Bicycle Accident. Surgery and total rest for 2 months, then some careful exercise for 1 month to rebuild strength. Now im back to climbing, it worked well like this.
Thanks for sharing. It takes some time, but usually people come back stronger after such a long rest.
The same happened to me - In November I broke a bone between the wrist and the pinky finger, fortunately without any displacements of the bone structure. My whole hand was plastered for a month, except for the first three fingers, and a little bit of the ring finger. So when they removed the plaster in December, I couldn't move my pinky at all.
Now it's the beginning of February and I can move it without any trouble. However, I still feel pain if I squeeze the finger, and the finger is especially stiff in the morning or if I've forgotten to move it during the day.
I've been swimming since 2 weeks or so after they removed the plaster, so I'm doing some exercise of the upper body part, however nothing apart from that (and running if that counts).
I'm thinking of focusing more on upper body exercises that are not using the wrist/fingers and then starting climbing again, but with easy routes, with main focus on the legs and using the hands only for a support. Using the fingers more when I see how it goes when some time passes.
Do you guys think this approach is okay? Should I use any plaster or do anything else? I don't think it's okay to use it cause I won't be able to feel well if I should stop and take a break. However, I was wondering whether I should limit the pinky and ring fingers at the beginning so that I don't use them when I'm back to climbing.
I agree with bouldering less, if at all. I also sport climb 5-6 grades under my limit and avoid crimpy climbs. I am able to climb the same length of time and really work on technique instead of increasing my rating.
I find repeaters on the hangboard to be a very therapeutic excercise for injured fingers. Pain free and streghtening at the same time
Please make the shoulder treatment video
@ManiTheMonkey I wanted to share a little trick I came up with for a more efficient taping method. I basically use the H method but instead of cutting the tape up to the middle from both sides (which makes things a bit complicated to then apply it around your finger) I make a small cut, about 2 to 3cm on one side and cut a long on on the other stopping at about 1cm away from the short cut. What this methods improves is that it's easier to tape your fingers and it stays better even after a long climbing season. Also doesn't need to be re-taped on top like Volker shows on his videos. I know almost nothing about climbing I literally just started but your videos did help a lot, I hope this becomes useful to you!
Thanks ;)
Thanks for your tips Mani, you are a legend. Strained A2 by bouldering in the gym without resting adequately. Been climbing and and stopping when i have pain and my open crimps are getting strong but i am having trouble with pain when gripping jugs, even on super easy routes. It's probably a technique issue and I was wondering if you have any advice to get me raising my grade on juggy overhung climbs?
Love your videos,
What is your opinion on using creams like antihydral to increase skin friction?
And do you use chalk with a drying agent?
Many thanks, keep up the good work.
Hey Manni!
What do you do when your muscles can handle your climbing, but your sinews need more time to get stronger in order to get to your muscles level?
I take it easy and do nothing that hurts.
sorry the music is far too loud. It is interesting listening to you. No distraction required.
Thanks for the feedback, my audio is definitely my weakness. I'm workin' on it.
I seem to get a pain in the fingertips under the nail, its that feeling of the tips of my fingers being squashed and then the next day or two after, any pressure on the end is sore - cant find any information on what this could be or what could help prevent it. does anyone have any ideas
Why does taping help to support tendons? I don't quite get it. The weight of your body is still on tendons. Not on tape. This looks a placebo method for me because I do know how it feels. Or I'm missing something?
Just want to be clear. I saw other videos on youtube where climbers try to fix synovitis with taping.
Gregory Stein The tape redirects some of the load on the injured area onto other parts of the hand
Tendons make your finger pull. Flexor tendons hold them in place (like a bandaid around your tendon). Tape holds that close to the bone.
@@zraybroske2416 I think you mean to say Annular Pulleys, not Flexor Tendons. Flexor Tendons are precisely what transmit force from the forearm flexor muscle to the phalanges. Otherwise your bandaid metaphor is great! Cheers! @dirtysouthclimber
I think it also depends on how long you have been climbing. A new climber with weak tendons probably would benefit from some resting and then coming back slowly with pain free climbing. any thoughts on that?
A good point. As a new climber one is usually progressing fast, and a lot of strength gains occur. As mentioned in the prevention episode: Take care if you've gotten stronger.
How is there no info nowhere on this skin issue that everyone has, you know, when your skin does a hole under one of the joints so its painfull to bend the finger or do a "fist" ? Its always right in the midle of a joint, where the finger bends. How do you avoid this ? And how do you cure it ?
I have the same issue but no solution 😯
What do you think of nerve injury especially ulnar nerve(the ring finger)
Hey Mani..so do you reccomend climbing-free rest at the end of the year? If so, for how long? Thanks and keep up the ood work! ;)
A two weeks rest once a year (doesn't necessarily need to be the end of the year) is definitely a good idea, especially if you're having a progression oriented approach to the sport thus do lots of training.
Thank you!
Does crimping overtime start to bend your a5 pulleys
I broke my 4rth metacarpal 3 months ago I'm back into climbing with a bit of pain. Do you know other similar cases and any advice for rehab? Thanks, love your channel!!
THXX!!
Great Video man.
I have one question to you (but also to all other climbers here). I climb since one year now and maybe 4 or 5 weeks back i started with more difficult climbs (i climbed UIAA 5+ - 6+ and now i try routes in the 7th grade and sometimes a little higher.) So the gripps become smaller and more negative. So do you think it is a good idea to use tape to prevent injuries? Or should i progress slower? Or is it even a problem to progress as fast as i do?
I ask because since i focus more on the technic (alot from your video's;-) ) i progress alot faster.
Maybe anyone can help me
Wenn's unverständlich ist kann ich es auch gerne nochmal auf Deutsch schreiben.
Great to hear the technique videos do their job ;) I would definitely not use tape to prevent injury (except for some surface/skin stuff maybe), rather I would go with the second option and progress slower. As mentioned in the injury prevention video: Take care if you're getting stronger, and thus progressing fast. Give your body some time to catch up. Ultimately you have to decide what that means for your climbing and training now, always listen to your body.
You would be better off slowing down the process, if you have a feeling that you might hurt yourself. Taping really isn't something you should use when it comes to injury prevention, except from rare occassions. (e.g.you need to hold an sharp pocket that cuts your skin). Theoretically it is possible to use tape to reduce the strain you put on the inner structures of your finger, but that would contradict the idea of training because you need that strain in order to get stronger. Hence taping might help you scale a difficult route but at the same time will keep your fingers from adopting correctly. Ultimatly this could lead to injuries when you start hanging on the same small holds without tape. Just take your time, train with reason and remember that climbing is not all about the grades. ;)
Thanks for the fast answers and the advice. The point that taping to prevent injuries would reduce the trainingeffect makes totaly sense.
The campus board is destroying my finger skin. I've added one day a week right before a couple days off of rest but it is overwhelming my healing process. I've not gotten carried away and have followed all your campus advice but I'm just not sure my skin is cut out for it.
hey, i think i got a tear in my tendon from climbing. When i was on the wall on a small crimp i think i heared a little pop or a little tear, i forsure felt something. i can still use my finger, but when i load it on it's own it hurts like crazy. hanging from all my fingers is completely fine though. would you recommend still climbing but just easier stuff that doesn't hurt? because i don't want to sit here doing nothing in my vacation. Thanks in advance.
How can I diagnose an injury, I know I injured a pulley or tendon or something in my finger/forearm but I don't know what it was.
You go to a doctor.
Is there another word for pulleys?
I think Annular Ligament is the medical term.
Mani, when writing them down you mix up short term with long term injuries. You talk about it how you mean to,but then you write that you can climb on a blown pulley, but must not climb at all on a ruptured pulley, which is the opposite of what you are saying when this is happening. Just wanted to point it out. :)
Great video, as always. Thanks Mani!
- @dirtysouthclimber
Why the music!!! Very distracting. Otherwise awesome channel.
Weare you ever not able to bend one or more fingers in the morning? I cant and i have been at doc and PT and after few months not muc changed. Massaging top of the finger and hand helps, is it possible it is antagonist injury?
Look up Trigger Finger. Thats probly what you have
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I think there is some additional things worth noting, one being diet,, hydration, also herbs. There are healing herbs that help treat musculoskeletal injuries, and all climbers should be familiar with these herbs. Arnica, Comfrey, Calendula, Solomon's Seal, St. John's Wort; all carry a quality to promote healing in bone, ligaments, skin, tendons, or even prevents inflammation, and pain when used externally as a salve.
Thanks for the input, never thought about herbs!
Hello i just broke my distal phalanx finger.
Eish, Sorry :(.
Hooray! Vegan Power! Vegans heal faster! Steve Thaw, Moraga, California