Finger tape for pulley injuries (climber's finger)

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 60

  • @paulwelford1804
    @paulwelford1804 8 ปีที่แล้ว +115

    Nice video. 3 pointers from experience working closely with injured climbers:
    1. A2 pulley (commonly injured) is often located more proximally (further from the fingertip) than people realise.
    If your tape doesn't seem to be helping, try moving the tape slightly in this direction.
    2. taping with the PIP joint (the middle joint on your finger) slightly bent often provides more relief. It's rarely essential to fully extend this joint during climbing so try applying the tape with the finger slightly bent.
    3. Be careful with concentric taping (eg. "ring method"). If the you fingertip blanches (goes pale) when flexing your finger after applying tape, its too tight. Either remove or (to save tape), try using scissors to (carefully!) cut both sides of the tape in slightly different locations, over the back of your finger. This is called "Z-lengthening" and works quite well.
    Happy climbing! PW

    • @RekySai
      @RekySai 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Do Not aggravate the injury. If taping applies discomfort then it's serving to cause problems. All recovery for hand injuries stems down to one thing. Do Not Aggravate the injury. And that simply means climbing less extreme climbs. Taping does not help. It's only serves to give you false confidence and hurt yourself more. Do not aggravate an injury

  • @Drinkyoghurt
    @Drinkyoghurt 6 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    The X method is my go to method when taping, however the way the taping is done in this video does absolutely nothing to protect the A2 pulley (or A4) from being overstressed. When applying the X-method, keep the finger bent and try to make the X section as tight as possible. The wrapping around the finger itself doesn't need to be tight and if done too tight can restrict bloodflow.
    Do 2 passes of the "X". You will know you've done it right when you try to straighten your finger but are unable to. A friend and long time climber recently recommended buddy-taping the strained finger to its next, stronger finger and I've found it to offer even more relief.
    When you're climbing you hardly ever need to straighten the finger, so you won't notice any major disadvantage when climbing.

  • @Rycamcam
    @Rycamcam 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Your videos are so clear and easy to understand! I can tell you're really passionate about climbing and climbing knowledge.

  • @Julian.Heinrich
    @Julian.Heinrich 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Excellent demonstration! Clear visuals and concise explanations. Many thanks!

  • @dariovalsagna4356
    @dariovalsagna4356 8 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    @ObsessionClimbing I wanted to share a little trick I came up with for a more efficient taping method. I basically use the H method but instead of cutting the tape up to the middle from both sides (which makes things a bit complicated to then apply it around your finger) I make a small cut, about 2 to 3cm on one side and cut a long on on the other stopping at about 1cm away from the short cut. What this methods improves is that it's easier to tape your fingers and it stays better even after a long climbing season. Also doesn't need to be re-taped on top like Volker shows on his videos. I know almost nothing about climbing I literally just started but your videos did help a lot, I hope this becomes useful to you!
    Thanks ;)

    • @toy23machine
      @toy23machine 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Smart, gets rid of the overlapping issue

  • @gklack105
    @gklack105 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Best description of what the injury actually is. 👍👍

  • @martinuzunov9346
    @martinuzunov9346 8 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Guys,
    Just to be sure and sleep well, use the "wrap-the-whole-goddamn-finger" method. I am not being sarcastic or in any way undermining this video and the author. Quite the contrary actually.
    Make sure your joint is wrapped up as well to restrict some movement (not the whole movement of course) so you can get actual support from the tape. Simply wrapping the pulleys does incredibly little. You need to prevent the finger from bending below 90 degrees, because that is when the danger of tear skyrockets.
    Just my two cents.
    Otherwise - thanks a lot for this video! It is very informative and well done :)

    • @sririjani7448
      @sririjani7448 8 ปีที่แล้ว

      Martin Uzunov "wrap-the-whole-goddamn-finger" i know exactly what you mean

  • @supernovaa11
    @supernovaa11 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Nicely explained, thanks! I suffer from hyperlaxity issues and crimp beyond control :/

  • @derekbrown5123
    @derekbrown5123 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I would've assumed taping was only for skin protection. I wouldn't have pepped it for tendon and pulley protection. If my tendons are in danger, I stop climbing and rest. Skin is a different story. That'll heal in days, so I push it and if it rips, it rips. Tape it and go!

  • @continentalgentleman6778
    @continentalgentleman6778 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks, just started climbing and i want to prevent injury from overuse. Trying this at the cliff tomorrow :)

  • @GorhamP
    @GorhamP 6 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Excellent video mate! Clear, informative and super useful, thanks a bunch!!

  • @landongeorge8725
    @landongeorge8725 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks a bunch. This was very helpful as I have TERRIBLE memory and constantly forget how to wrap with the second method. lol

  • @bartd8516
    @bartd8516 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thanks for this. I just had a “light” a2 pully injury today and will use the H method to climb again tomorrow. Or should I not?

  • @TuTuBo1055
    @TuTuBo1055 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I invented the I method. 1peace of tape that go down the finger under the joint then the ring method where the tape ends like a capital I. you can tape up to the tip of the finger like a rail or ladder.

    • @TuTuBo1055
      @TuTuBo1055 8 ปีที่แล้ว

      Great minds Indeed.

    • @toy23machine
      @toy23machine 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Gunna need some ultrasounds BUD

  • @nmwag88
    @nmwag88 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi, does h taping help during the immobilisation phase, immediately after a (A4) pulley rupture, or is it just for climbing?

  • @gabskings
    @gabskings 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Super informative video, thanks my guy!

  • @leshopkins45
    @leshopkins45 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have trigger finger on my bowling finger would this work for me?

  • @disgruntledwookie369
    @disgruntledwookie369 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Worrying amount of people in these comments who aren't climbers... Why are you people even here lmao this isn't something just anyone should be doing. Not even regular climbers should be doing this. If you do it all the time it's only going to prevent you from building a natural tolerance to the strain. This is for injury treatment/prevention in the extreme case. Unless you're a V7+ climber doing a lot of crimps, you have no reason to be taping up like this.

  • @gregoryconnor9670
    @gregoryconnor9670 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a trigger finger which locks when it closes and this works well

  • @denninosyos
    @denninosyos 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    It's also great when working with repetitive heavy lifting!

  • @FuegoPiqante
    @FuegoPiqante 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Does the H or X method support the pulleys better than 2 individual rings?

  • @Kez_abi
    @Kez_abi 8 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    What type of tape do you use?

  • @henryhoffman1109
    @henryhoffman1109 9 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    'X methos' i prefer, H is just to bloody fiddly, and often leaves trailing ends on the tape under your fingers and it peels easier.

  • @stephenturner968
    @stephenturner968 9 ปีที่แล้ว

    So would you this as a preventative measure? I've kind of only used tagore if I felt a blister coming on, that's down to breed to climb and complete ignorance about the purpose of tape. :/Again, really like the videos. Very clear and simple.

  • @verticalnetwork1
    @verticalnetwork1 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice Tipps for taping! Thanks. Tom

  • @keitsukishima8850
    @keitsukishima8850 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Could u use it for other sports as well

  • @AcfLavertyy
    @AcfLavertyy 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great stuff. I needed this video. Thankyou!

  • @Fintoy
    @Fintoy 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What kind of tape so you use?

  • @lostaxisgis
    @lostaxisgis 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the great info!

  • @Haberly
    @Haberly 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks!

  • @NeoMororo
    @NeoMororo 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    What about small finger , do u tape it to the ring finger?

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  8 ปีที่แล้ว

      +neo moro Very rarely tape the little finger as it's not usually under as much pressure as the others

    • @NeoMororo
      @NeoMororo 8 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      +Obsession Climbing I ask cus I twisted my pinky finger lol I have five fingers and I use them all five .

  • @kishorpandey1745
    @kishorpandey1745 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Whats the name of tape

  • @ansharora24
    @ansharora24 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Which type of tape is used

  • @vladimirkolosov8836
    @vladimirkolosov8836 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    omg thank you, I can play guitar again

  • @xShpooplex
    @xShpooplex 9 ปีที่แล้ว

    Should you be using fat pieces of tape like you used in the video or thinner pieces and wrap more? I know when you wrap your tips you don't want bulky tape.

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  9 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      +Sam Roehrich It's down to personal feel and how big your fingers are; we've experimented with thin and thick tape and generally speaking find fatter tape with less wraps more helpful.

  • @Abi-qk5fw
    @Abi-qk5fw 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    👍👍👍👍👍

  • @jonalynburgos5795
    @jonalynburgos5795 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    whats the name of the tape guyz.?

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      +Jonalyn Burgos Lyon Finger Support tape 1.25cm, loads of good brands out there if you can't find this one

    • @gregoryconnor9670
      @gregoryconnor9670 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's just basic clothe tape that comes in most 1st aid kits

  • @silverkinjal
    @silverkinjal 8 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Have to say I think the logic for this method is flawed in that although the taping methods presumably are beneficial : A2 and A4 pulleys are the principle pulleys from the palmar crease down to the distal phalangeal crease that hold the flexor tendons tight to bone and these do not rupture internally.
    Crimping doesn't lead to bowstringing so much as risking a finger with a mallet injury or boutonniere deformity.
    The tape is probably stabilising the lateral bands of the extensor tendon- the crimping position (as your fingers nicely demonstrate) gradually migrate to the palmar surface over time leading to a Boutonniere deformity where the PIPJ is hyperflexed and the DIPJ is hyperextended and the tape is presumably stabilising that lateral band palmar migration. Bow stringing occurs when the A2 or A4 pulley is completely transected after eg tendon repair and reduces controlled glide of the flexor which loses position in a bowstring during flexion. Anyway will be interesting to hear more on this subject.
    One stands to be corrected by greater minds.

    • @DanaDeGeweldige
      @DanaDeGeweldige 6 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      I'll have to google about 1/3rd of this entire comment to figure out what you're trying to say.

    • @gregoryconnor9670
      @gregoryconnor9670 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Try me I use it and it is a great relief. I discovered it accidentally.

  • @weazidaki6293
    @weazidaki6293 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    WHY WONT ANY CHANNEL TELL THE NAME OF WHAT TAPE THEY FOCKIN USEEE.

    • @williamwedmedyk3927
      @williamwedmedyk3927 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      medical tape(and/or) athletic tape. get the cloth kind not the shiny plastic type. its at most pharmacies

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      +Weazidaki there are plenty of manufacturers that create "finger tape" although that is a fairly misleading name for a product that has multiple uses. In this case the tape that was used was made by DMM.
      Head to any online climbing retailer and search "tape" you should see numerous options. In this instance I would go for 1.25mm tape as it's thin enough for your fingers.
      Peace

  • @noone-4029
    @noone-4029 ปีที่แล้ว

    Climbing tape

  • @LukeSnowmaker
    @LukeSnowmaker 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    nope. nope. nope. taping does not offer any support, any treatment, any help. The only use could be skin protection. People saying the opposite, fool themselves and are on the best way to reach serious injury while trying to recover from some finger injuries using taping and climbing unless fully recovered.

    • @Drinkyoghurt
      @Drinkyoghurt 6 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Whilst I agree that taping your fingers as shown here doesn't do anything to aid recovery, taping properly so that your finger can't (over)extend really stabilize the finger/pulley and definitely aids in recovery.

    • @BertBoute
      @BertBoute 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      This is indeed completely trash... The way the guy is demonstrating, the tension of the tape is way too low for offering support to a tendon (or pulley).

  • @k-popshorts223
    @k-popshorts223 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you please speak louder