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Finger tape for pulley injuries (climber's finger)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video we show three different techniques for taping your fingers in the event of a pulley injury: the ring method, the X method and the H method.
Ultimately pulleys need time and rest in order to fully heal; this can take several weeks depending on the injury. Disclaimer - www.obsessioncl...
Nice video. 3 pointers from experience working closely with injured climbers:
1. A2 pulley (commonly injured) is often located more proximally (further from the fingertip) than people realise.
If your tape doesn't seem to be helping, try moving the tape slightly in this direction.
2. taping with the PIP joint (the middle joint on your finger) slightly bent often provides more relief. It's rarely essential to fully extend this joint during climbing so try applying the tape with the finger slightly bent.
3. Be careful with concentric taping (eg. "ring method"). If the you fingertip blanches (goes pale) when flexing your finger after applying tape, its too tight. Either remove or (to save tape), try using scissors to (carefully!) cut both sides of the tape in slightly different locations, over the back of your finger. This is called "Z-lengthening" and works quite well.
Happy climbing! PW
Do Not aggravate the injury. If taping applies discomfort then it's serving to cause problems. All recovery for hand injuries stems down to one thing. Do Not Aggravate the injury. And that simply means climbing less extreme climbs. Taping does not help. It's only serves to give you false confidence and hurt yourself more. Do not aggravate an injury
The X method is my go to method when taping, however the way the taping is done in this video does absolutely nothing to protect the A2 pulley (or A4) from being overstressed. When applying the X-method, keep the finger bent and try to make the X section as tight as possible. The wrapping around the finger itself doesn't need to be tight and if done too tight can restrict bloodflow.
Do 2 passes of the "X". You will know you've done it right when you try to straighten your finger but are unable to. A friend and long time climber recently recommended buddy-taping the strained finger to its next, stronger finger and I've found it to offer even more relief.
When you're climbing you hardly ever need to straighten the finger, so you won't notice any major disadvantage when climbing.
Excellent demonstration! Clear visuals and concise explanations. Many thanks!
Best description of what the injury actually is. 👍👍
@ObsessionClimbing I wanted to share a little trick I came up with for a more efficient taping method. I basically use the H method but instead of cutting the tape up to the middle from both sides (which makes things a bit complicated to then apply it around your finger) I make a small cut, about 2 to 3cm on one side and cut a long on on the other stopping at about 1cm away from the short cut. What this methods improves is that it's easier to tape your fingers and it stays better even after a long climbing season. Also doesn't need to be re-taped on top like Volker shows on his videos. I know almost nothing about climbing I literally just started but your videos did help a lot, I hope this becomes useful to you!
Thanks ;)
Smart, gets rid of the overlapping issue
Your videos are so clear and easy to understand! I can tell you're really passionate about climbing and climbing knowledge.
I would've assumed taping was only for skin protection. I wouldn't have pepped it for tendon and pulley protection. If my tendons are in danger, I stop climbing and rest. Skin is a different story. That'll heal in days, so I push it and if it rips, it rips. Tape it and go!
Nicely explained, thanks! I suffer from hyperlaxity issues and crimp beyond control :/
Thanks, just started climbing and i want to prevent injury from overuse. Trying this at the cliff tomorrow :)
Excellent video mate! Clear, informative and super useful, thanks a bunch!!
Guys,
Just to be sure and sleep well, use the "wrap-the-whole-goddamn-finger" method. I am not being sarcastic or in any way undermining this video and the author. Quite the contrary actually.
Make sure your joint is wrapped up as well to restrict some movement (not the whole movement of course) so you can get actual support from the tape. Simply wrapping the pulleys does incredibly little. You need to prevent the finger from bending below 90 degrees, because that is when the danger of tear skyrockets.
Just my two cents.
Otherwise - thanks a lot for this video! It is very informative and well done :)
Martin Uzunov "wrap-the-whole-goddamn-finger" i know exactly what you mean
Thanks a bunch. This was very helpful as I have TERRIBLE memory and constantly forget how to wrap with the second method. lol
Super informative video, thanks my guy!
Nice Tipps for taping! Thanks. Tom
Thanks for this. I just had a “light” a2 pully injury today and will use the H method to climb again tomorrow. Or should I not?
I have a trigger finger which locks when it closes and this works well
I invented the I method. 1peace of tape that go down the finger under the joint then the ring method where the tape ends like a capital I. you can tape up to the tip of the finger like a rail or ladder.
Great minds Indeed.
Gunna need some ultrasounds BUD
It's also great when working with repetitive heavy lifting!
Great stuff. I needed this video. Thankyou!
'X methos' i prefer, H is just to bloody fiddly, and often leaves trailing ends on the tape under your fingers and it peels easier.
Worrying amount of people in these comments who aren't climbers... Why are you people even here lmao this isn't something just anyone should be doing. Not even regular climbers should be doing this. If you do it all the time it's only going to prevent you from building a natural tolerance to the strain. This is for injury treatment/prevention in the extreme case. Unless you're a V7+ climber doing a lot of crimps, you have no reason to be taping up like this.
Thanks for the great info!
So would you this as a preventative measure? I've kind of only used tagore if I felt a blister coming on, that's down to breed to climb and complete ignorance about the purpose of tape. :/Again, really like the videos. Very clear and simple.
Hi, does h taping help during the immobilisation phase, immediately after a (A4) pulley rupture, or is it just for climbing?
I have trigger finger on my bowling finger would this work for me?
Thanks!
omg thank you, I can play guitar again
Does the H or X method support the pulleys better than 2 individual rings?
Could u use it for other sports as well
What type of tape do you use?
Is that tape or some kind of bandage?
Rex 19 its a tape
@@anmolkaur7835 ok thanks!
Should you be using fat pieces of tape like you used in the video or thinner pieces and wrap more? I know when you wrap your tips you don't want bulky tape.
+Sam Roehrich It's down to personal feel and how big your fingers are; we've experimented with thin and thick tape and generally speaking find fatter tape with less wraps more helpful.
Climbing tape
What kind of tape so you use?
Whats the name of tape
What about small finger , do u tape it to the ring finger?
+neo moro Very rarely tape the little finger as it's not usually under as much pressure as the others
+Obsession Climbing I ask cus I twisted my pinky finger lol I have five fingers and I use them all five .
WHY WONT ANY CHANNEL TELL THE NAME OF WHAT TAPE THEY FOCKIN USEEE.
medical tape(and/or) athletic tape. get the cloth kind not the shiny plastic type. its at most pharmacies
+Weazidaki there are plenty of manufacturers that create "finger tape" although that is a fairly misleading name for a product that has multiple uses. In this case the tape that was used was made by DMM.
Head to any online climbing retailer and search "tape" you should see numerous options. In this instance I would go for 1.25mm tape as it's thin enough for your fingers.
Peace
Have to say I think the logic for this method is flawed in that although the taping methods presumably are beneficial : A2 and A4 pulleys are the principle pulleys from the palmar crease down to the distal phalangeal crease that hold the flexor tendons tight to bone and these do not rupture internally.
Crimping doesn't lead to bowstringing so much as risking a finger with a mallet injury or boutonniere deformity.
The tape is probably stabilising the lateral bands of the extensor tendon- the crimping position (as your fingers nicely demonstrate) gradually migrate to the palmar surface over time leading to a Boutonniere deformity where the PIPJ is hyperflexed and the DIPJ is hyperextended and the tape is presumably stabilising that lateral band palmar migration. Bow stringing occurs when the A2 or A4 pulley is completely transected after eg tendon repair and reduces controlled glide of the flexor which loses position in a bowstring during flexion. Anyway will be interesting to hear more on this subject.
One stands to be corrected by greater minds.
I'll have to google about 1/3rd of this entire comment to figure out what you're trying to say.
Try me I use it and it is a great relief. I discovered it accidentally.
Which type of tape is used
Climbing tape
👍👍👍👍👍
whats the name of the tape guyz.?
+Jonalyn Burgos Lyon Finger Support tape 1.25cm, loads of good brands out there if you can't find this one
It's just basic clothe tape that comes in most 1st aid kits
nope. nope. nope. taping does not offer any support, any treatment, any help. The only use could be skin protection. People saying the opposite, fool themselves and are on the best way to reach serious injury while trying to recover from some finger injuries using taping and climbing unless fully recovered.
Whilst I agree that taping your fingers as shown here doesn't do anything to aid recovery, taping properly so that your finger can't (over)extend really stabilize the finger/pulley and definitely aids in recovery.
This is indeed completely trash... The way the guy is demonstrating, the tension of the tape is way too low for offering support to a tendon (or pulley).
Can you please speak louder