Climbing Related Shoulder Injuries: Prevention
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- My Top Tips for Preventing Climbing Related Shoulder Injuries, which occur quite often amongst Progress Oriented Climbers for obvious reasons. A good prevention strategy is key to avoid most short term accidents and long term overloads, both of which can develop into real throw-backs.
The shoulder is a relatively complex joint in the human body, which is emphasized by the amazing range of motion that we as monkeys possess compared to other animals.
On an inner, skeletal level it is held together by a bunch of tendons and ligaments and stuff, in a more distal direction it is sheathed by a great number of muscles, which ensure mobility and protection of the healthy shoulder.
If you want to avoid shoulder injury in general, use those muscles, and use all of them. Warm up properly, and throw in some corrective exercise from time to time. Do not fall into your open shoulder, as this will wear out those inner structures, which take a long time to heal and adapt. Be careful on extreme gaston moves.
Don't forget to like, share and subscribe if you've got something from this video, and I would also like to encourage You to share Your experience with injury in the comment section, as I'm sure a lot of people including myself would like to learn from them as well, so that we can prevent some upcoming injuries from happening Thank you for your attention, see you soon!
Climbing Related Shoulder Injuries : Prevention by Mani the Monkey
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![SLAP Tear Rehab Explained [WORKOUT INCLUDED]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z2agRYd6FFE/mqdefault.jpg)
who else watching this vid a bit late
Me
Lol
Lmao
Watching this after a hill sacks bankart dislocation with torn connectors 😢
How about that second video for already acquired shoulder injuries? :)
Did you ever find this video?
*Would really try the exercise in **_Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff_** - will save you a lot of pain and agony.*
Dang! 2 years later and still no corrective exercises video up...not gonna hold my breathe for it....but this video explained what I did to injure myself (if only I saw this video first....then I wouldn’t need the part 2 that never came out) (I’m salty cuz my shoulders hurt and you have all the answers lol)
The biggest thing for me aside from engaging my shoulder/scapula and being careful with hard gastons is careful footwork - just gaining confidence in properly weighting my feet and knowing which positions to avoid when the feet are bad. (I've dislocated my shoulder more times than I'd like to admit...)
Awesome video. You are totally right about the gaston moves. I've recently suffered a minor shoulder injury and have been thinking back to what may have caused it. I thought it might have been over training but then I realized I was projecting a boulder problem where the crux was the gaston move. Thanks Mani for the tips.
I just had to stay, Mani, I agree with all of this 100%. I have a friend who tore her labrum during a fall where she tried catching herself one armed on a good hold. And recently I tweaked my shoulder repeating a hard Gaston move more times than I should have. I've rehabbed it with stretching, bands and weights, but I'll never obsessively try a hard Gaston ever again and I've made shoulder stretches part of training now.
Thanks Mani, great video. Am looking forward to the shoulder injury prevention exercises video very much.
One other thing I would add is paying attention to your form. Especially when lead climbing, it's easy to get into the bad habit of disengaging the shoulder muscles (i.e. hanging like a "bag of rocks") while you pause to make a clip or re-chalk. That really wears on the rotator cuff over time.
no
Excellent advice; very well explained and easy to understand. Mani has a better command of English than many native speakers of the language.
Nicely done :) good point on the individual character of these injuries, sadly for me it seems to be an inherited thing after my mother who suffered from really severe shoulder problems and I seem to have these joiints rather fragile as well. I increased the intensity of my trainings from 1-2 times a week to 3-4 times a week after a 3 years period of climbing just for fun and damn, after mere 6 months I realised my shoulders click and creak all the time and got an inflammatory state shortly after pushing it too hard on a boulder problem. The pain would keep me awake at night. I did quite decent warmups and tried to be careful but it just wasnt enough. Now I'm gonna try to get back to climbing after 6 months of rest and corrective exercises and really hope to avoid shit like this in the future. Keep up the good work and wish me luck ;)
Thanks for sharing your story, long term injury is truly a pain in the ass. Keep up the corrective exercise, and good luck ;)
I injured my left shoulder during a boulder festival, where I lost my foot in a move and fall on my open shoulder... I manage to match hands and do another move with my left arm, which made some strange noises on my left shoulder joint.
Next month it was pretty much traversing using my right arm.
After 2 months I started some physio exercises.
After 3 months I was climbing again. Started slowly.
After 6 months I was completelly healed...
From that day on I started to pay attention to my warm ups, and do some injury prevention routine exercises every day. With patience and perseverance all injuries heal and make you stronger and more connected with your body. THanks for the video!!!
Thanks for you detailed input Bruno!
Great Video!!
great video man!! I've had bursitis and tendinite on my left shoulder on June 2016... I struggled with them for 5 months... lost almost all the climb season in Brasil. .. today I am gaining momentum again, but as you stress in your video warm up and correct exercise 3x a week is a must.
Thank you thank you! Another hugely helpful video. My daughter and I are big fans.
I have always had bad shoulder pains after climbing. Avoiding crimps in favour of open hand helped a lot. Another terrible idea is to play on the PlayStation after a hard climbing session!! But still the tendons around my right shoulder are fragile, and this is PRECIOUS info for me. Danke!!!
Interesting about playing PS after climbing... I play piano and I used to get sore hands a lot from playing, especially in a cold room. Since I started climbing, the hand soreness from piano playing has decreased a lot. I'm not really sure how to explain this. I think I have crappy bloodflow to extremities normally and climbing was just what was needed to get blood pumping to the fingers !
PLEASE WE NEED THE VID WITH CORECTIVE EXECERcises
Yeah, I'm waiting for it too!
Mani - any idea on a timeframe on a follow up vid for this?
cristobal rencoret hand is up for the follow up vids
I had a minor subluxation from basically swinging around on really long gymnastics rings. This healed to an extent, then i tweaked it again jumping to a compression move with two sidepulls on a 90 degree overhang. I probably abruptly loaded the connective tissues since i didn't catch the move with my arms bent or anything. I'm working on some rehab exercises now and taking the climbing really easily so that my shoulders can be really strong before i go back to climbing hard. Some aspects of my climbing style probably need to change too, specifically not catching things with completely straight arms, but rather with slightly bent arms to absorb more force in musculature before convective tissue.
I just hurt my leg tendons at Saturday while climbing. What I have learned is - when doing something hard, don't just push, or just pull. Do it either both (push and pull at the same time) or nothing (try new position, jump off)
Be smart. Instead of pushing your whole body weight on a single leg, place the other foot on the wall, where you'd like a foothold. And help yourself with hands. It's good to have your legs working, but feel other muscles in your body, too.
If you feel that something's super hard, think about this: take a huge risk and get injuried (that means - not climbing for about a month) or try something easier and kick ass there?
Great stuff! Thanks.
First of all: as a climbers we have to work on your posture to avoid climbers hunchback! Climbers posture is inward rotated shoulders which leads to shoulder problems at first. I like some of Kelly Starrett books and YT films and "chest up!" ;)
second: Mani my friend, when I look at your finger nails I see that you need some supplementation with zinc and iron! :)
Superuseful🙃
err.. . I'd check out BULLETPROOF YOUR SHOULDER. Its the bestselling shoulder book at amazon.
Got it.
Really nice editing mani, this is very instructive!
Not just a straight arm under load/sudden impact is problematic but a straight arm with an unengaged scapula and upper back
I am really looking forward impantiently for corrective excercises with thera bands!!
Do you have any tips/videos on how to recover from wrist injuries? I've been having a chronic, but mild pain every time I climb for a few months. I even stopped bouldering for three weeks and when I started again the pain was there after every session.
What about dyno's? :-) When I first started climbing I often fell into an open arm when landing a dyno, which I then realised - since I've started doing lock-off exercises and deadhangs with engaged shoulders it's gotten much better and I feel I can engage my shoulders much better when I land a dyno... I'm pretty sure it's a source of injury for a lot of people, though! :-)
I can only agree, thanks for pointing that out Kat!
I’ve been climbing for ten years, injury free for six and then like a freight train, WHACK. Elbow tendinosis three months off. A few months climbing and boom, small tfcc tear that turned to wrist tendinitis, another three months off. Few more months climbing and,,,, the elbow tendinosis makes a savage return sooooooo eight months off this time with consistent PT stretch and massage and all the bs (cbd, prp, acupuncture, grafting etc). Finally get it under control for a few months but wait there’s more it came back again only now both arms hooorrrayyyy. I’ve never tweaked a finger or shoulder. But I can honestly say I’d rather snap a few pulleys and never get tendonosis again.
Good video valuable insights ...climbers need to be aware of the situations these traumatic injuries can occur......what I would like to add to what you've spoken about (being an exercise scientist and climbing researcher ) is that chronic shoulder injuries, as in shoulder impingement, are much more common in climbers. On that point the exercises shown at ~ 6:57-7:00 are not good for the shoulders (depending on the individual at best they are a high risk exercise at worst a really effective way to injure your shoulder ). Weights lifted overhead or on an outstretched arm in front or to the side can cause or exacerbate shoulder impingement (if one already has it from climbing or otherwise). In some cases if these sort of execises are performed with chronic shoulder impingement this sort of lifting or indeed other things such as climbing can precipitate a rotator cuff/ long head of biceps tear. These exercises my not cause issues for those maintaining perfect scapular etc. form, who have no mobility issues or strenght deficits in scapular/peri-scapular etc. muscles (like yourself ...seemingly). Most people have imperfect shoulder strenght, posture, mobility and so on. For most people, certainly anyone with shoulder problems these exercises should be avoided. Thanks
Man I love your videos. Straightforward, useful info explained in a way that's easy to understand.
Great job.
I hurt my left shoulder while swimming 4 years ago, and it has been slightly weaker since then. I have to be careful about catching Dyno jumps with just my left arm.
Nailed it. 👍
I'm probably an odd case among climbers in that I'm triple discipline fitness wise. I long distance run, heavy weight train, and climb. I do these things because I enjoy them all but as a consequence of a very active lifestyle I'm always at the edge of over-training and at risk of injury. It took me having a bad year to give up just trying to do everything all at once. Something like, run 3 miles to crossfit, do crossfit workout, run home, go to work, and then climb in the evening would have been common place 4-5 days a week. After a lower back injury (crossfit), a shoulder injury (climbing) and a strained hip flex (running but it's hard to say where I did the damage) I had to get my head on strait and make a workout schedule that had some synergy. I stopped crossfit and adopted a planned controlled lifting regiment (531 if your wondering) with my assistance work being all core and mobility. Running on it's own day and only as far as makes sense given my training week. Finally climbing 4 days a week but a planned pyramid each day 3 of the days and campus training the last day. I still have to balance things week to week drop a climbing day, shorten my run, or combine lifting days as it makes sense for me that week. I guess what I'm getting at is when you love doing stuff it's easy to go to far and we have to learn to know what we can do in a given time frame without hurting ourselves because once you are hurt you will lose a lot more time then just skipping a run or a campus day.
Man that indeed sounds like a lot of training to digest, take care of your body. Thanks for the input!
Mani the Monkey It is but I've settled into a realistic pattern now. Thank you for the videos.
WHat kind of shoulder injury did you have ?
@@gandalfcar I had a full frontal dislocation. I suffer from chronic partial subluxations and pain related to joint instability and inflammation. It’s not that bad though. :)
@@harveyts3 Your rotator cuff was ok ?
love the channel, can't wait for the corrective exercises video!
great video, I can tell you're really improving your shooting, talking end editing skills! keep it up!
In Poland, we call it " Klątwa Mechaniora"
Hey dude,
again a really good video! nice overview about the topic. just one criticism:
the exercise you do at 7:34 onwards (outward rotation rotator cuff) is poorly executed imo.
The elbow should be touching your body at all times (but a pice of paper inbetween, if it falls down: wrong!). You will probably have to restrict your range of motion in this particular exercise to achieve this.
Looking forward to that video on corrective exercises!
You've got sharp eyes, I remember I actually tried keeping my elbow close to my body but somehow my lat got into the way XD I'll learn it for the corrective exercises episode.
Looking forward to the follow up rehab vid (hint hint ;) ) i realise shoulder injuries are often unique and it is a complex subject but i imagine there are many people, myself included who could benefit from more climbing specific rotator cuff rehab ideas. Keep up the good work
one of the best advices with a really good information!! thank you very much!
Very nice video mani! I think that I have quite strong shoulders too but I ve seen a lot of people dealing with these kind of problem.. Very helpful thanks!
good... thanks
Thank you Mani, Ive been climbing for about a year now and couldn't figure out why it would just wreck my shoulders this helped a lot!
Was a pleasure to me Jacob!
yet another really informative, interesting vid. thanks very much mani.
Hello mani. I'm a fairly new climber and i have a giant issue in climbing up the top edge of a problem. I climb it by doing a big pull up, from down to up where the edge is touching my hips. It causes internal rotation and pain to my. Can you make a video of how you correctly climb on the top edge of a problem without internal rotation. Thanks
thanks for the info, slightly tweaked my shoulder on a gaston move yesterday. Taking it easy for some days now.
thank you
I haven’t injured my shoulders but for the past couple weeks when I go climbing my right shoulder around the back deltoid is acheing quite noticeably. I cannot find answers to this problem so hopefully you have some advice? If you by any slim chance read this comment. Thank you!
this first clip hurts
Ive had experience with rule #2. I impindged my shoulder during a session when I was repeatedly doing a super deep right arm gaston. As I got more tired I stopped engaging my scapula the way I should have and that lead to the injury. Took over a month to heal and severely limited my climbing.
Corrective exercise video when?
Hey,
Regarding some complementary exercise for climber I recommend a book written by a pair of physiotherapists working with climbers in Poland: "Trening uzupełniający dla wspinaczy i nie tylko". I dont think there is English edition but still there is more images than the text itself, and its available as an ebook. Cheers ;)
Great vid, thanks! Could you please release the follow up?
Great video! Right on.
Awesome video Mani !
When I do Hangboard exercises it feels like my left wrist gets pulled apart while my right wrist feels stabil. At first I thought I just wasnt strong enough but it didnt really change over the last few months. Have you ever experienced a similar problem?
Thanks man, which grip do you use? I think sometimes this occurs when hangboarding with 3 fingers open (because some people don't have the forearm and hand in one straight line while hanging (the hand is bent a bit forward), which results in that feeling in the wrist, likewise when grabbing really big slopers if you know what I mean..) or the 4 fingers open (this one sometimes tilts the hand slightly, because pointer and pinky are straight despite the difference in length). In both cases a temporary switch to the half crimp could solve the problem. If you don't know which grip types I mean, check out my video on gripping technique.
Mani the Monkey I use the 4 finger open grip and I actually don"t have my arm and my hand in a straight line so I should work on that.
Thank you !
Do you plan on making any wrist injury videos? Great content!
Thanks Joseph, I'll do my best!
Where's the corrective exercises video? My shoulders pull themselves back too much and it causes me neck pain.
Hi MAni! Great Channel, you are really improving :) Could you do a video about your gear and good accessory & your editing? Would be really great to get a glimpse behind the scenes! Keep on rockin'!
Will definitely do something like that in the future, it may take some time, but stay tuned :)
Thanks so much pal!
great and important, thanks!
awsome video...i should have watched this before i injured my right shoulder. I was on the beach and there are some ropes hanging from the trees...and i can climb them without feet so i did that but without warmup or any exercise before...and as i pulled i heard something in my right shoulder and it hurt really bad...in the beggining i couldnt lift my arm i would just felt so powerless and my arm would just drop...and now i can properly do like 98% of climbing and its not bothering me that much...but i cant do pushups or plank...it hurts decent amount and its not very pleasing feeling...what do you suggest me do to...bcs plank is really good and effective way of building abbs strength and pushups are just...pushups haha
Sorry to hear that man, basically take it easy, do nothing that hurts, and low impact exercise (eg swimming) to get the blood flow going. Let it heal properly.
yea i actually thought the same thing about swimming....to go to pool and casually swim for a few hours....im pretty sure that it helped me alot this summer bcs i was swimming every day....tnx alot will do that after the holidays :D
Sometimes i wonder about my shoulder because i can rotate my shoulderblade outwards in a very strange way. But only my left one. And when i pull my shoulders back my left one feels like it come out of the jointpocket and when i release it i slides back in.
When i went to a chiropractor he said that it is no wild thing and that it is just because i can aktivate single muscles in my back like someone who can wiggle with his ears. But i'm not quite sure if i should trust him or if i should go to another dic 😂 But luckyly it never inference me with climbing until now
Great idea to make whole video aimed just on rotator cuff corrective exercises. :)
i broke my shoulder before i started bouldering. it took months for the 2 parts to grow back together and couldn't move it for months. apparently it grew together a bit off centered and not 100% like it's supposed to be. i can't reach as high with my left arm as with my right. it has also been weaker ever since then my right one which causes pain and troubles after most sessions. i continue to train my shoulder every day, give it 1 rest day a week and visit my therapist frequently. i can manage, but do you have any tips in general that could help? cheers!
Hi Ben, sounds like some tedious stuff, and some fractures simply don't come back to a full 100% in terms of mobility and so on (I've had a Talus fracture in my left foot so I can relate a bit). All I can tell you is to not give up, keep up the complementary exercise and get your recovery as complete as possible in order to avoid future disbalances. One rest day per week seems to be very few rest for a recovering shoulder. Maybe give it a bit more time to regenerate.
Mani the Monkey thanks, giving up was never part of the plan, i'll keep pushing until i'm at the best i can possible be. all i need is motivation, which i'm not lacking. thanks again! -Ben
Ben Heirbaut like Mani said, you should train your shulder only every second day. So that you have one day for regeneration between. And increase the exercises every week but just a little bit. You also should switch between different exercises. So for example at Monday you do exercise A and B then a rest day, wednesday you do exercise C and D, rest day, and on friday you do E and F, or on the last day you pick two exercises for example A and C and then you increase the difficulty but then you should switch weekly between A/C and B/D. The last day could have a higher difficulty in general because you have two rest days after it. The System behind it is that you trow the muscles out of balance so that they adapt to a new higher level And at least stretch it every day and do mobilisation movements.
But maybe you should talk with your therapist about this first.
Because when you overdo it it would be contraproductiv.
Semjon Borzutzki thanks a lot for the help! i currently train my shoulder pretty much every day in the week, and only leave a rest day when it hurts or just feels very exhausted and stressed. i go bouldering monday, tuesday, thursday, friday and sunday which also puts some effort onto my shoulder. luckily i can visit my therapist as soon as i want and usually go twice a week for mobility and other necessary treatment. i've only been doing 1 shoulder exercise with an elastic that my therapist described to me. i could ask for some variation. thanks again for the detailed tips you gave me, i'll definitely look into it and inform my therapist as well. cheers!
hey Mani to you think u could talk about climber elbow in the next vid?
The elbow is definitely on the list, I'll do my best!
Thanks mani great vid
I'm trying to make my TH-cam channel grow and my dream is for it to grow as big as yours, any tips for me?
thank you!
Start 2:10 TML
Controled shoulder engagements, aka....start of a pullup not using arms....on a bar with around 150% body weight if you can do 20 pullups in a row normally.
Safer strengthen them in a controled manner than damaging them cus they are weak. Also helps one arm hangs, doing one armers and with campus boarding
Hi mani, another super video, thanks a lot! By the way i want to congrate you to your new name, you could not find a better one😄
I should have seen it some months ago :D
Is das ein Fingerschinder der da in der Ecke ist
100 Subscriber Wenn du das in seinem Zimmer meinst, das ist ein Hangboard
This is the best Vid I could find on the subject. Thank you.
yo Mani. Any chance you can do a video on core strength, grip strength for the poor climber who dosent have equipment to aid them?
Informative Video ! Thanks for this one, I'd really like to see that corrective exercices video. Thanks Mani!
Do you or can you make a vid about how to maintain good skin condition with such frequent climbing period?
👍
Great Video, can´t wait for the corrective ex. video! Schönes WE!
If anything, you're gonna get more injuries after filming this video...
Definitely felt my shoulders after recording this, but I can handle it. True dedication to get the info out!
Mani the Monkey next video: controlled falling from Boulder problems (with examples of what not to do) ;)
seconded
Thanks Mani, great video. Am looking forward to the shoulder injury prevention exercises video very much.