Calibrating Z-Offset With A BLTouch Bed Levelling Probe
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Z-Offset Instructions:
1. Home 3D printer
2. M851 Z0 - Reset Z0Offset
3. M500 - Store setting to eeprom
4. M501 - Set active parameters
5. M503 - Display Active Parameters
6. G28 Z - Home Z Axis
7. G1 F60 Z0 - Move nozzle to true 0 offset
8. M211 S0 - Switch off soft endstops
9. Move nozzle towards bed slowly until the paper can barely move
10. Take note of the Z on the printer display (take that number and add the measurment of the calibration sheet or device used)
11. M851 Z X.XX (X.XX being your z offset achieved)
12. M211 S1 - Enable Soft Endstops
13. M500 - Save settings to Eeprom
14. M501 - Set Active Parameters
15. M503 - display current settings
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I know it's been years since you posted this, but I really love this video. I find myself coming back to it periodically when I have to recalibrate my printers.
Thank you for not only taking the time to make this video, not just for explaining each step so we're not blindly following instructions, but for making it entirely generalized: anyone with a BLTouch and a Marlin printer can make use of this and it's wonderful. 10/10.
After days of unsuccessful attempts to get my BLTouch to work, YOU finally got me through it with my sanity intact. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!
2024 and you still help people who are starting out in 3D printing. thx a lot
Perfect! Thank you. I have used this several times on many printers. Most recently with the Ender 5 Plus that I installed the new silent board on.
Great video. If anyone else is coming back to this guide for a refresh of the commands, here's the step by step.
Calibrating Z-Axis
1) Home your Z
axis
2) M851 Z0 // Reset Z offset to 0
3) M500 // Save to EEPROM
4) M501 // Set EEPROM
5) G28 Z // Home Z only
6) G1 F60 Z0 // Move to Z = 0
7) M211 S0 // Soft endstops off
8) Paper technique with z change to figure out correct Z0. M114 to get current pos
9) M851 Z [current Z position including - if it exists] // Set z offset
10) M211 S1 // Softenstops back on
11) M500
12) M501
I was just going to type these down for the little cheat sheet I'm making but here it is. Thank you!
HEY MAN MY NOZZLE DOESN GET CLOSE TO BED AFTER DOING YOUR STEPS, EVERYTIME I DO HOME OR START A PRINT IT HOVERS OVER THE AIR ABOUT 2MM PLEASE HELP I HAVE CR10 S5
@@ewaynetm9261 mine too i have a ender 3 pro
@@Franx1122 hey I was able to fix mines with pronterface
I followed this guide multiple times untill it worked now my printer is printing like a pro. Good luck
Thanks man.. I installed a bltouch on my ender 3 and I couldn't set the z offset correctly after several attempts but thanks to your video now I can print correctly.
I'm an engineer and work in the industry. I've been using this video for close to 4 years. If this ever goes away, I'll be SOL 😅 thank you so much.
Hi Joe, Thanks for publishing this. I have lost count of the times I've referred to these instructions, as they're a Never-Fail way for me to calibrate Z Offset! Thank you so much!
Worked perfectly. Thank you for this tutorial. You saved me a ton of frustration!
Propably one of the best videos for Z-offset, if not the best. Thank you so very much
I can't thank you enough for posting this! I have been out of commission (unable to print) for a week already. I was getting very close to removing the BL Touch and just going back to leveling the bed manually. THANK YOU!!!
I've kept threatening myself to use this guide, and just did so with my CR-10 Max. Please take a bow Sir. Fantastic. Very easy to follow and superb results.
This video is super. I always forget the sequence and have redone this about twenty times now on a few of my 3D printers. Thanks so much for your efforts :)
This was a "lifesaver." Thanks so much! I am regaining my sanity.
Thank you for making this video. It worked perfectly for me and my Prusa i3 clone with an inductive proximity sensor. There plenty of videos out there about this subject, but many of them, including Tom's, skip over that VERY important M211 command. That was exactly where I kept getting stuck.
finally have my CR-10 bed leveled, getting good adhesion over the full bed. Best instructions I have seen so far, Thanks
Oh man, just got my bltouch and z offset dialed...WOW. THIS IS THE BEST FIRST LAYER EVER....
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! someone that finally dumbed it down to an understandable level!
Great tutorial, you are very well spoken, clear instructions and just what I need to get my printer back on track, I will try this tomorrow morning... thanks for the video and keep up the good work!
Got my first printer (Ender 3 pro) Back in October. Found this video when I added the Bltouch a month later and have used it multiple times since, recommended it to others and have added it to my 3D Printing playlist. Thanks for the awesome tutorial!
thanks for the Z offset instructions I did not know how to turn off soft end stops great video thanks Joe keep up the good work.
+jim. c you’re welcome buddy :)
This video has come in handy so many times. Great job :)
This video was a lifesaver for me and my CR-10 Max. It's built so much differently than the other CR models, none of the generic hot ends work quite right, so you have to follow your instructions here as well as change the location of both the BL touch and the mounting position of the hot end. Thank you!!!!
Awesome video! Your clear explanation of things allowed me to get my printer up and running in no time flat. Thanks!
Dude I owe you a beer. This is amazing, I used to spend so long trying to find the right offset
Same man. Two weeks I struggled. This guy is a God.
Thanks so much for this, it helped me resolve the issues I was having. Nozzle was crashing into my bed because it had an incorrect Z Offset of -6.60mm! I had no idea this setting was in eprom on my CR10S Pro. Thanks
Andy Bexx how’s it been since? I’m having the same exact problem with my cr10s pro.
OMG man you are a the savior of the nozzle printer crasher. I just follow every step of your video and my printer is finally printing correctly and the nozzle is not crashing in to the bed. Thank you so much for helping us with your videos! 🙏🏼✌️
Hi Joe, thanks for the clear and concise instructions. I was pulling my hair out as I could not get the nozzle below Z0 until I followed your vid and saw the M211 command. I had gone to the extent of tuning off this command permanently in the firmware which wasn't clever. Also these instructions were a lot more logical than other instructions tendered elsewhere. Again thanks for making the time to do these fantastic videos. Bravo.
Many thanks for this very clear and concise video. You saved me a lot of headaches as I had been messing around with the Z offset for days after I installed a new V4.2.7 mainboard on my Ender 3 Pro (with BLTouch) and I was getting nowhere fast. For those with the same printer as mine (and with the V4.2.7 mainboard), for some reason the display does not show the Z offset but you can use the M114 command line in Pronterface to get the Z offset value.
Just a perfect job of going through the process, a real find after lots of searching to listen to this video Nice Job
Joe, thanks for this. Got my self leveled perfect!
This is the sole guide that I could wrap my head around and one that I find myself coming back to time after time when I need to calibrate my offset. Thank you so much for this!
The thickness of the measuring device (paper) is 0.1 as author said but in the video author added just 0.01 (2.49 + 0.01 = 2.50)
yea I'm also confused. so the actual offset should have been -2.59?
I think he just misspoke, meaning to say .01, kinda like he misspoke again at 5:23 when he said "click on homo" when he meant to say home.
@@PaganWizard You might have thought he mispoke, but you misheard, sounded like he said "home all"
@@PaganWizard this is incorrect because 0.1mm is indeed 0.00393 in. which is the equivalent thickness of a piece of paper, so no, still confusing
@@nicholasblumling2117 this is driving me nuts - the most important part, and it's explained incorrectly, lol
Hi Joe! Great job done here, it summarizes in a few minutes what you can partially read o see in some videos and blogs but I couldn't find the whole story in one single brief place like you do here. Great job.
I'd probably suggest two small adds, if you think are accurate. One is to always remark that all this operation has to be done with bed and extruder at operating temperature! Some might skip this part and all the work will have no value once it gets to print, right?
Second thing, that it drove me nuts after instaling my BL Touch and upgrading to Marlin 1.1.8 is the M420 S1 command. I tried and retried and my first layer was still skewed only to find out that by default (at least on my case) the auto bed level was off (which you check with a simple M420). The simple solution was to add a M420 S1 after the last G28 on my printer settings commands, but nobody seems to talk much about it and all the auto bed leveling is useless unless you ensure you have the feature turned on. Do you agree? Do everybody need that or was it just me?
Best regards and again, congratulations on this video.
@@cordellabney This behavior has now been clarified in the Marlin documentation.
Thanks a lot! Turns out mine was also off!
I struggled witj my sensor an literally spent around 7-10hours to make this damn thing work. Finally your video did the job! Thank you!
This video is one of the best videos I've ran across on the subject. I used OctoPrint and your directions worked amazing!
there's something i don't understand, great video btw. but when you say you have 2.49 and add the paper 0.1 doesn't it have to be 2.59? i am confused a bit?
me too... been looking at all the comments, a few people have picked that up, but I haven't found an answer so far though... will reply again if it was answered
OP did confirm (2017 reply) the error; correct setting for this example is 2.59
Just so everyone is aware, a piece of paper is more like .1mm. You said it right "zero point one millimeters" but you added .01mm to your z-offset.
Noticed that aswell... common mistake. Otherwise great concise and clear video. I prefer to have the machine set to the paper thickness and substract it in my start g-code keeps the nozzle from damaging on glass beds.
Me Too, so it should be 2.49 + .1 = 2.59 right ?
@@acestu Yeah whatever your z-offset is add .1mm
@Johnno9999 I just responded to this 3 months ago when I watched the video. I'm sure the author has moved on since then. Otherwise I found the video to be exactly what I needed and very informative.
@@acestu So if it's -2.49 and you need to add .1 then it goes to -2.29 right?
wow.. idk how many guides and vids I went thru misery... this is by far the clearest and most informative video of all offset probe calibration:) thank you so much
This video is great. Had nothing but problems with my Ender3 and the BLTouch. After following your instructions I have a perfect first layer all around the bed. Thanks a lot!
Thank you for a very helpful tip on the topic. There is however a question concerning the adjustment for the paper thickness at time 4:20 where you execute the command M851 Z-2.50. Shouldn't it have been Z-2.59 instead? The manual Z adjustment yielded -2.49, then you added the paper thickness of 0.1mm.
That's what I thought as well but hey might be very very thin paper he was using ;-) But all jokes aside, it's more the process that counts not really the actual figures.
That’s what I was thinking, that would leave it off the bed by 0.09mm. And the paper I measured is actually 0.07mm not 0.1mm. But I’m still setting up so have no idea what I’m talking about..
from what Im understanding is this procedure measures the offset of the BLtouch from absolute zero of the nozzle touching bed so you have to add the adjustment from the bed to nozzle using the paper for proper distance.
@@x0atm3alx Yes, but in the video, he added 0.1 to 2.49 and came up with 2.5, which means he only added 0.01 for the paper, not 0.1.
Happy to see this comment. Was thinking I was crazy :P
Thanks, but don't forget add right G-codein cura
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28
G29
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 E3 F600 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
M106 ;fan on
M117 Printing...
thanks to Natan Kozerev
If you set it in the EEPROM I don't think you need to add any code.
New to 3D printing and just got a BLTouch for my Ender 3. Your guide is refreshingly concise, cheers...
This video is BEYOND helpful, its much more than I was hoping to find but really happy that I found it. As soon as I get home I am going to get this finally done.
Thanks again for an AWESOME video!
Great video but z - 2.49 + 0.1 (paper) = - 2.59 not how you spell it - 2.50
actually that is 2.39 ...-2.49 + .1.... should we be adding or suubtracting it?
Bigger negative is closer to bed, so you need to do the operation to increase the negative, in this case subtract
In simple terms if it’s -10 it will be farther but if its -1 it will be closer
This video has been referred to a lot by me lol, it's great! Now I'm into marlin 2, and I follow every step (mini e3/ender3/2.0.1Marlin) it always seems to IGNORE any z offset?? I'm going slightly insane. I've set it this way, and the lcd, soon as I home again it's too high. Set it yet again through terminal in octo, home, back too high again. Circles. I have real memory issues but I'm missing some real basic thing here. EDIT: Marlin bug it seems, lots are saying this.
I’m having the same issue right now. Did u ever resolve it. My printer is printing great ... just don’t want to screw it up chasing the bltouch issue. Later
Robert Avery it was a fault in marlin, fixed in later editions.
As of today, this video is still relevant. I thank you dearly dear sir. This was out of my scope of knowledge and you did a great job explaining. The M211 commands were not recognized on my end, but it allowed me to still lower, I guess I don't have soft endstops anyway, everything else was spot on. just did a bed level print with BL touch for the first time and it was awesome. Again, thanks.
This has fully resolved the issue I have been having with my CR-touch on my updated Ender 3 Pro.
Thank you much.
This is BY FAR the best Z Probe Offset video in existence. Thank you so much for doing this! The only critique I could make is that I wish you had shown how to do everything with the pronterface serial/CLI interface. It's pretty easy to do if you use `G91` to switch to relative position/motion mode, and use `G0 Z-0.1` repetitively to close the gap. Then use `G90` to switch back to absolute position/motion mode. But as is, this video can serve as a "model/manufacturer independent, all pronterface, no LCD/TFT/Dial/Touch" method for everyone. And for that, I thank you. (--Daniel Tosh) ☮❤🌈🧘🏽🕉☸☯
I agree. I always come back to this video every once and readjust my z offset on my E5.
Why am I only getting "echo:busy:processing" when I send commands to my printer (even homing) ??
That should go away once the command is executed. So, after homing is complete it will stop sending those messages.
Been messing around for hours trying to get this right, followed your directions and had it working in 5 mins, thanks for the brilliant tutorial
Awesome! I am glad you listed the steps. It helps this old man understand how it works. Thanks
I don't have a display how do i see the position?
I used the command M114, which showed all current positions!
Wish I did this before I scratched my bed up
Yeah, me too. On the bottom of everything I print is the outline of my screw-up!
Scratches are just a little memento mori. Grow beyond your mistakes but remain humble.
Haha noobs
@@ezearo everyone starts somewhere
I scratched 2.. this is insane.
Thank you so much for this video... I was able to modify your instructions slightly and correct my makerbase tft28 leveling issues.
Beautiful video very clear and straight to the point. All other YT instructional videos should take notes here this was a VERY well done video and is on a FAV list for sure. Thank you so much for this.
Hi Joe. If the initial z adjustment was -2.49mm and the paper was 0.1mm should the adjusted figure not be -2.59?
+Neil Watts well spotted Neil. In fact it should be -2.59 apologies, almost 1am lol it did work in the end for me as I pushed the nozzle down to the bed more than the thickness of the paper
3D Maker Noob. Great vid and always love your channel. One of few I subscribe too 👍
Was about to mention the same, good thing I decided to read the comments first!
Average paper is indeed .10 but lately I've been getting all sorts of irregular sizes so I've decided to move off to feeler gauges.
So, say I'm using glass? i subtract the thickness of the glass + the paper (feeler gauge)?
Great channel you got going here. Thanks for all the work and effort.
Cheers
did subtract the thickness of the glass + the paper?
Feeler is more precise - if for isntance the .15 fits in under your nozzle and .2 doesn't means you've got no more then .05 of an error.
I'm confused. In the video you said you add the thickness of the paper ".1" to the z position "-2.49". If my gradeschool math doesn't fail me the correct answer is -2.39 not -2.50 nor is it -2.59 as some others have stated. Or did you misspeak by saying add when you meant subtract?
Thank you for an amazing tutorial on how to do this, I was about to go mental :), now I have perfect prints all the time.
Man I searched and searched and this was the video that made it simple and clear. I then realized how old this video is. Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I subscribed and am looking forward to looking through your videos.
I've tried this process 8 times now, I'm having absolutely no luck with this. I've tightened down all 4 springs and re calibrated Z Offset and still the nozzle doesn't come down to the bed close enough to put a good first layer down..
Use the z step in tune and then lower it
@@bruhboi554 This is the way. I had the same thing happening and tuning while doing a test print solved my issue.
I've followed these steps exactly, but every time I check by hitting home, then move Z to 0, it ends up stopping above the bed in the same position it was prior to starting the process. Could there be anything else making it not save my changes?
Same for me.
@@butcharuski Same here...
Same..
Same here. I have an ender 5 pro.
Late reply, but if someone's reading; Try storing the offset directly on the printer instead, not in Pronterface. Worked on my Ender 5 Pro.
This helped me with my Ender 3, although I had to finish it off through the control panel. Had been having major issues with it ever since I installed the BLTouch last week ago. Now it seems to be working fine.
Thanks for this. Super easy and took less than 5 mins watching this video to not only set the Z-offset correctly but understand the how's and the why's. Perfect for this noob to 3d printing.
Shouldn't -2.49 + -0.1 = -2.59?
Everytime I see this video I am more confused. At least someone is asking the right question. What is wrong? The calculation or the paper thickness?
Joe.
I have just realized that I had been using your method of setting up the Z offset for at least a year before I found you again for ideaMaker (and subscribed). Have just accessed the method again to reset Z for my Micro Swiss hot end and direct drive - off to do a fine tuning calibration print and live Z offset tuning next. Thanks for everything you produce.
I hope that you are keeping safe from the Covid 19 spike there.
David
Thanks 3DMN! This makes life easy. Most will say this has to be changed in firmware, intimidating for most. This process also applies to the X and Y offsets, only input your measurements from the nozzle to probe on X and Y.
Well .... went through the process on my CR10S Pro. Your setup is right on and it works. Just one problem with a printer like mine. The setup on the screen does the same thing. It will override the setup you recommend and re-establish a new set point. So ... I really appreciate you taking the time to present this ... it’ll definitely work out on the printer I’m building. Worth learning this. Thanks.
Hi. This video has been absolutely great for me. I have been struggling with my BL touch and bed levelling on my Ender 3. After following your guide, I have finally successfully set up my printer. Thank you for your efforts.
I just want to reiterate how helpful this video is. I've used it 4 times now. I was ready to throw my Ender 5 Plus out the window until I found your video. Thank you so much for creating the video and making it easy to follow. :)
Thanks for making that incredibly clear and easy to follow. Your channel is one of the best for 3d printing.
Very good tutorial! I would say though that the BLTouch is measuring a point that is offset from the nozzle. With most beds that won't be a major problem, but strictly speaking, you ought to move the nozzle to the BLTouch probing position before setting the offset. In any case, it's still a very good and clear tutorial and better than most I have seen, so thanks for that!
Thank you very much for the video, just got my bl-touch working with my wombot. After your video it was just adjusting the z probe offset to have the correct z offset for filament level
Love your videos, got my bltouch up and running spot on. Really appreciate what you do.
Been fighting with this printer for days! Thank you so much!
Thank you. I was trying to sort out the Z offset from the "official Creality video. As good as it is for basics, she goes off on some wild tangent that had me totally confused. Watched your vid and Z Offset is simple. Especially as I connected my Ender 3 to my PC and have it controlled through Matter Control. Cheers
you also helped me get started with manually entering gcode commands and reading marling docs with this. kudos.
Great Video! Used your suggestion of M211 S0 to validate my mesh parameters for UBL adjustments using M421.
For real thank you so much this has been my problem all day today and you just helped me fix it. I don’t really have a big maker community here so thanks for making it bigger. Keep on keeping on.
Thank you SO much. I wrestled with this ALL day. It was the M501 M503 that was messing me up. This was great. Subbed and bookmarked.
Hi Joe, yours is one of my fav vlogs, it helped a lot with simple approach. Thanks
rudedog
Thank you for proving conscientious video and documentation. I was really struggling trying to get this working on my cr-10s.
The instructions I was following were miss some key commands that you provided. I commend you!
Oh god, thanks for making this video. Been having leveling issues with an Ender 3 for years and am still kinda new to the concept of auto leveling, this video quickly helped me fix the problem and get nice first layers finally!
I come back to this over and over again to get myself set up. Such a good tutorial!!! Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. Installed a cr touch and my first layer went to crap and now it is perfect again.
Thank you so much for this. I did a board swap & added a BLTouch and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to set this properly. Now I'm back in business.
I just got a 3d printer for the first time and this video was exactly what I needed. Thank you very much!
For days I was trying to get the proper z offset on my Ender 3 following several different instructions from the web. nothing worked. Finally, with your instructions, I was able to set it properly and the prints are fine now. Three thumbs up for you. The only caveat I was encountering was, my Pronterface (Linux) didn't work. It didn't get any feedback from the printer. I used than octoprint and it was working fine. Hallellujah.
Joe, this is a great video, clear and easy to follow. And if eeprom is not set the only thing to do is to write the z offset to the firmware code and to use G28 and G29 at each start of print. And these codes are Marlin, Repetier has different M codes but same procedure follows.
Absolutely brilliant! The current (2020/12/22) official Creality firmware for Ender 5 does not allow the Z offset to be saved, so this was a lifesaver! Thank you!
This was the most helpful video ever. I had BL touch on my old 4.2.2 motherboard and I just had some issues with my printer so Creality sent me 4.2.7 upgrade. It so silent, however I couldn't probe the Z into minus. This video is so easy to follow, straight forward for a newbie like me. Thank you so so much!
P.S. Higly highly recommend upgrading motherboard, I don't hear a sound while printing except fan.
Really clear tutorial - very easy to follow - I learned a lot! Keep up the good work!
Hi Joe, Thanks... Fitted an SKR mini V2 and was clueless about setting the z off set probe distance. Did find that even with your guide I still needed to take off another .2 as was too close to the bed. Am off and running now, so great guide!
Thank you, just upgraded my printers with BLTouch and 3DTouch and this was invaluable.
Greetings to the beautiful Malta and thanks for this excellent video. It is by far the most to the point tutorial for this topic, including your before touch probe video. Greetings from Herri in China.
THANK YOU!
I was going mad trying to set a proper negative offset on my ender 3.
It was extremely useful and so FINALLY I could setup my BL TOUCH! Thanks a lot for this video, Noob. Greetings from Sao Paulo, Brazil.
This helped me a lot 3DMN always nice to see you're tutorials! Greetings from Belgium :)
By far the easiest method for doing the z offset. Thanks so much.
Something went south on my E5 to where the nozzle was getting buried into the bed when printing. I went through your procedure and got two different readings. I went with the second reading for the offset and now things are running well again. Thank you!!!