Perfect. That was just what i was searching for. For me it looks more logical to drill the endpoint first and then the start, so you can continue right away.
Best of the best video. There can be no better way to keep it this simple, yet informative. The video angles are great. I’m a beginner to use a router but gained confidence after watching your video. Thanks for sharing the tutorial.
Wow, Mark, thanks for sharing this great tutorial on making quick and easy mortises! I've always found mortising to be a time-consuming and fiddly process, but your technique using a plunge router and a simple jig looks like a game-changer. Your step-by-step instructions are clear and easy to follow, and I appreciate the close-up shots that show exactly how to position the router for each cut. I'm excited to try out this method on my next project and see how much time and frustration it saves me. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to watching more of your videos!
A while back I purchased a router guide (CRB7 by MPower Tools) and mortises have been an absolute breeze ever since. It is one of the best tools I have ever purchased. I have no affiliation with them but just love the tool so I'm spreading the word. It sure made my life easier.
I was seriously considering a mortise machine but I watched another video you did on mortises 16 years ago. You covered both ways but this seems easier and a lot cheaper. TY!
Mark, Thank you for what you do! I just finished cutting 32 mortises. My first! and they look good. But I must admit I marked the layout for all 32. OK, I got carried away. Each mortise was 2-1/4 X 1-1/4. I used a template and drilled them out first. I guess if I had a spiral bit I could have skipped the drilling. I hope you do tenons next. Please.
I always enjoy your humour! Couple of points though mark, you don't "need" an up spiral bit, std two flute straights will quite happily route mortices all day long quite happily, although up spirals do help clear deep narrow mortices, people will be in danger of thinking they should go out and get an expensive STC bit when the two flute they have will be fine. Also you say "move the router left to right, push don't pull". But this only applies with the exact same setup you have. With the fence referencing on the front face, but standing on the other side of the router, I should pull, not push. With the fence referencing on the back of the work, You would have routed right to left, from the camera POV, a far simpler way to remember if the same with a bearing guided cutter with the direction of cut being anti clockwise around the outside.... with this in mind, our router fence is also referencing on the outside of the work, so it too should travel in an anti-clockwise direction. Pushing, pulling or twisting side to side becomes irrelevant and only a matter of personal comfort. Also, you move the fence away from the cutter to widen a cut, this keeps subsequent cuts direction of cut the same.
My goal was to keep the video short and sweet. If you try to cover all of the various positions and work orientations, people quickly go cross-eyed. My hope is that if people hear me say, "always go left to right and push away from your body", they'll realize the ramifications of putting their body on the other side or possibly putting the fence on the other side of the work. For the bit, I think you must have better bits than I have. While my two flute straight bits can indeed cut mortises, they aren't happy about it. They tend to burn when being plunged into the work and they provide more resistance and friction throughout the cut. So if someone is looking to make mortises as easily as I make them and in the quantity I make them, I do feel a spiral bit is highly recommended. Just like a plunge router isn't totally necessary, but highly recommended.
The Wood Whisperer "line the fence up on the edge of the work, and route along the mortice ensuring the fence is traveling in an anti clockwise direction along the work". Yes spirals clear the chips better, but they aren't needed. I never care about a bit of burning in a mortice, I either cut slightly less per pass, or just fill it with a tenon.
I'd recommend getting an extra guide fence and using the pair to prevent any sideways drift by running one on each side of the work , been using a double fence on my trusty GOF 1700 to rout locks in doors for thirty years now , takes maybe a minute as opposed to the dinosaurs that still drill and chisel them in ... :-)
Very helpful. The advice about moving the Router away from one is good. I've been doing it the other way..and losing control. Thanks. this is a very clear video.
Hi are used to do this years ago all of the mortises for mortise and tenant joint and sometimes for locks but a better way to do it is actually buy a second fence and make sure the rods are long enough and put the second fence on the other side that way you can centralise the router. And it will stop it from cracking on wondering off-line and if you're coming to the end of a piece of wood it is best to put another piece of wood the same thickness but up against the end so you can run through it further without the router dropping off the end. And I hope you're wearing a dust mask a defenders and I protection I'm sorry to go on a bit but I'm 68 years old retired living in France in lockdown ,. 17 April 2020. Anyway keep up the good work. Regards Phil from the Moulin in France
Great video, I am looking forward to graduating to this type of joinery very soon in my DIY lifestyle. Just so you know an acronym is an abbreviation that spells something readable. For example, DARE (Drug Abuse Resistance Education) 4 letters that mean different things, an abbreviation, that also spells out a word which makes it also an acronym.
Hey John. That's the whole point of the joke. Did you notice that I actually "pronounced" it as a word? I do know the difference between acronyms and initialisms.
If the mortise needs to be central, it's good practise to route from both sides. You don't to do many to make it worthwhile making a stabilising jig to help with the tipping problem, side to side and particularly over the end.
Thanks, Marc. I still have to bang mine out with mallet and chisel, but whether using a plunge router, hollow chisel mortiser, or whatever, the "L" part is probably the most critical. If your layout is off then it'll show in your project. Thanks for sharing these tips!
your video is great for someone like me who doesn't have professional tools. I'm inspired to try making the mortises and tenons on the door I am building.
Yes I was watching the video and I think that my mind was so preprogramed that there was going to be a tenon part that It came like a shock when I was seeind that the video was coming to an end...hope you have the time to do an easy tenons too. Thank you stlll for this video...greetings from Canay Island.
Nice video and description! Thanks! Your videos, as well as others have inspired me to try my hand at my woodworking hobby. Starting with nothing and working my way up was intimidating, but the TH-cam community helped me gather the courage to try! Subscribed! Thanks for all the wonderful info!
I just use a Mor-tend jig. This has been serving me well for over 10 years and is almost fool proof and I have made many pieces of furniture with it. It takes about 3 minutes to make the mortise.
Such an easy to pronounce acronym! haha. Good note on using one hand at the bottom of the base. I've done that and it does feel like it gives me some more control. - Jim
Any recommendations for cheap (without being so cheap it sucks) plunge router? I'm happy to buy used, just not sure what is a good starter weekend-warrior model! Cheers, love your videos!
If the width of the mortise matches the width of the bit, which it will in many cases, the direction of the rotation means nothing. The real concern is being able to stop the router at the ends of the mortise. To give more control, don't take more than about 3/8" in depth on each cut. That will minimize the grab. Plunging the holes at start and stop is very helpful, as shown in the video. Easier still... clamp stops to your workpiece.
My thoughts exactly. It would seem that, along the axis of travel, one side of this bit is "pulling" in the direction of travel while the other side is "pushing" back. Wouldn't those two forces tend to balance when moving in either direction?
Rotation matters because of the router guide that rides along the side of the work piece. If you could put it on the other side of the router, you'd want to go in the other direction. It may not seem intuitively apparent, but if you go in the wrong direction, the guide will want to drift away from the piece. You can keep it against it, but you really need to pay attention. Do a hundred of these on a baby crib or something, and you'll know what I mean. Unless you want a curved mortise, you may want to listen to the man. I found this out myself, and created a few new curse words in the process.
You are probably right about the importance of rotation direction, but the unanswered question is WHY it is important in this application. The explanation given in the video is not accurate, as that example does not apply to the forces at work in a "plunge" cut. If the bit was moving right-to-left in the plunge cut shown, the rotating "leading edge" (arc) of the router should tend to pull the router toward the fence. This force can cause the fence to lose contact with the guide, resulting in the curved mortise that you describe. Moving the router left-to-right, in this example, has the cutting forces pulling the router fence toward the guide, which would tend to help maintain a straight cut.
Thanks for this excellent video to learn how to make mortises. I am to buy a router, can you please tell what is the model you are using with the guide?
If you have multi pieces just make a simple jig, screw three wood stops on the stabilization piece . Two for the router on the top one on the side for the positioning of working piece .
+The Wood Whisperer for how long those spiral bits stay sharp ? Theres no possiblity to sharp them again am I right? I consider getting one but Im thinking about carbide-tipped straight bit also. Cannot decide. Straight are cheaper but more hard in use I suppose.
Don Vanco They're floating tenons. Either buy them premade or make them with a router and roundover bit.. then just cut to length.. I've been using a chisel and mallet all this time, but it's time consuming.. I might actually start using my router someday after I evict the bird that built its nest behind it on the shelf.
i was about to ask you if you are Italian from Italy , then i saw a video on your channel, and nope , your english is to god to be a born and raised in Italy :) Anyway , greatings from Parma ;)
Very nice marquetry of your logo on the workbench. How did you cut it? It seems too big for a fretsaw. Cut by laser? What veneer is the orange color (e.g. sides of the plane in the logo)? Or is it died veneer? Beautiful color. Thanks for reply.
What do you do with the round corners? You square them with a chisel? Do you round off your tenons? Or you leave the mortices round and the tenons square, but making sure the part that has the tenon covers the entire mortice? Thanks.
In English (as spoken by the English in England and many others across the Commonwealth), an acronym is a PRONOUNCEABLE word, e.g. radar, laser, FLIR, NATO. What you refer to is an initialism.
Mark I haven't been keeping up lately. That was not a 1,000 Festool router.. then I remembered you decided to step down the price point of your everyday tools to help with your channel appeal since anyone using a 1,000 router is likely not checking TH-cam for mortise advice and people enjoy seeing things made with tools they are likely to own (Your words). This type of video and format has a similar and enjoyable aspect to it.
@@86c5corvette That's a great idea! We've definately been discriminated against and are victims. We need action!if people don't believe in mortis and tennon joints then they are spreading hate.
Another reason you push with the edge guide on your right is that the leading edge of the router bit is rotating towards the edge guide and so it is pulling the edge guide tighter to the wood. If you go the other way you will be fighting to keep the guide against the workpiece.
The Wood Whisperer Ahh, I misunderstood what you were saying at that point. It sounded to me that you were saying it would tend to slip in a way that would make the mortise longer. I was thinking of preventing it from going wider or diagonal.
Routers are just too messy for me to want to use them as often as I should. I go the drill press / chisel route for mortises, takes longer, but no dust.
Stupid question...because I don't remember if you are left or right handed... when you push the base of the router with your left hand is that because you are controlling the top of the router with your right hand at the top or because you are controlling the base of the router with your left hand at the bottom? :\
I am right handed. And the direct answer to your second question is both. I am pushing forward with both hands but most of the forward motion is coming from my left hand. My right hand is controlling the top side of the router helping to prevent tipping and just keeping things balanced.
Just finished my first 16 mortises EVER.
Followed the procedure exactly.
Marc, you would be proud at how they came out!
Thanks for the millionth time.
Perfect. That was just what i was searching for. For me it looks more logical to drill the endpoint first and then the start, so you can continue right away.
Best of the best video. There can be no better way to keep it this simple, yet informative. The video angles are great. I’m a beginner to use a router but gained confidence after watching your video. Thanks for sharing the tutorial.
Wow, Mark, thanks for sharing this great tutorial on making quick and easy mortises! I've always found mortising to be a time-consuming and fiddly process, but your technique using a plunge router and a simple jig looks like a game-changer. Your step-by-step instructions are clear and easy to follow, and I appreciate the close-up shots that show exactly how to position the router for each cut. I'm excited to try out this method on my next project and see how much time and frustration it saves me. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to watching more of your videos!
A while back I purchased a router guide (CRB7 by MPower Tools) and mortises have been an absolute breeze ever since. It is one of the best tools I have ever purchased. I have no affiliation with them but just love the tool so I'm spreading the word. It sure made my life easier.
Love how simple you made it. Especially the repeated mortises with the start and ends
Hi, Does anyone know where I could purchase the adjustable square t with the longish ruler stop used in this very informative video please ?
I was seriously considering a mortise machine but I watched another video you did on mortises 16 years ago. You covered both ways but this seems easier and a lot cheaper. TY!
Great tips for mortising without needing to make a jig. I like the suggestion to rout full depth on each end so you can feel the edges.
some times we forget...the simpler methods.....thank you for reminding me.....cheers mate
Thanks you for the info just one more question what's max depth of a cut for a router I'm getting lots of burn out just smoke lol 😅
Mark, Thank you for what you do!
I just finished cutting 32 mortises. My first! and they look good. But I must admit I marked the layout for all 32. OK, I got carried away. Each mortise was 2-1/4 X 1-1/4. I used a template and drilled them out first. I guess if I had a spiral bit I could have skipped the drilling.
I hope you do tenons next. Please.
I always enjoy your humour!
Couple of points though mark, you don't "need" an up spiral bit, std two flute straights will quite happily route mortices all day long quite happily, although up spirals do help clear deep narrow mortices, people will be in danger of thinking they should go out and get an expensive STC bit when the two flute they have will be fine.
Also you say "move the router left to right, push don't pull". But this only applies with the exact same setup you have. With the fence referencing on the front face, but standing on the other side of the router, I should pull, not push.
With the fence referencing on the back of the work, You would have routed right to left, from the camera POV, a far simpler way to remember if the same with a bearing guided cutter with the direction of cut being anti clockwise around the outside.... with this in mind, our router fence is also referencing on the outside of the work, so it too should travel in an anti-clockwise direction. Pushing, pulling or twisting side to side becomes irrelevant and only a matter of personal comfort. Also, you move the fence away from the cutter to widen a cut, this keeps subsequent cuts direction of cut the same.
My goal was to keep the video short and sweet. If you try to cover all of the various positions and work orientations, people quickly go cross-eyed. My hope is that if people hear me say, "always go left to right and push away from your body", they'll realize the ramifications of putting their body on the other side or possibly putting the fence on the other side of the work. For the bit, I think you must have better bits than I have. While my two flute straight bits can indeed cut mortises, they aren't happy about it. They tend to burn when being plunged into the work and they provide more resistance and friction throughout the cut. So if someone is looking to make mortises as easily as I make them and in the quantity I make them, I do feel a spiral bit is highly recommended. Just like a plunge router isn't totally necessary, but highly recommended.
The Wood Whisperer "line the fence up on the edge of the work, and route along the mortice ensuring the fence is traveling in an anti clockwise direction along the work".
Yes spirals clear the chips better, but they aren't needed. I never care about a bit of burning in a mortice, I either cut slightly less per pass, or just fill it with a tenon.
I'd recommend getting an extra guide fence and using the pair to prevent any sideways drift by running one on each side of the work , been using a double fence on my trusty GOF 1700 to rout locks in doors for thirty years now , takes maybe a minute as opposed to the dinosaurs that still drill and chisel them in ... :-)
Very helpful. The advice about moving the Router away from one is good. I've been doing it the other way..and losing control. Thanks. this is a very clear video.
Hi are used to do this years ago all of the mortises for mortise and tenant joint and sometimes for locks but a better way to do it is actually buy a second fence and make sure the rods are long enough and put the second fence on the other side that way you can centralise the router.
And it will stop it from cracking on wondering off-line and if you're coming to the end of a piece of wood it is best to put another piece of wood the same thickness but up against the end so you can run through it further without the router dropping off the end.
And I hope you're wearing a dust mask a defenders and I protection I'm sorry to go on a bit but I'm 68 years old retired living in France in lockdown ,. 17 April 2020.
Anyway keep up the good work. Regards Phil from the Moulin in France
Great video, I am looking forward to graduating to this type of joinery very soon in my DIY lifestyle. Just so you know an acronym is an abbreviation that spells something readable. For example, DARE (Drug Abuse Resistance Education) 4 letters that mean different things, an abbreviation, that also spells out a word which makes it also an acronym.
Hey John. That's the whole point of the joke. Did you notice that I actually "pronounced" it as a word? I do know the difference between acronyms and initialisms.
You are amazing at explaining the process so it is easy to understand. I have been avoiding making mortises...I may give it a go now. Thank you!
Cut some motrices using a forstner bit and chisels yesterday avo. Now I’m going to get out my router and do the rest. Thank you 🙏
Finally a simple explanation and thanks for that. I think this is the simplest way and had already tried everything before. Cool.
Please explain different between router and trimmer?
Gotit. Lieutenant Bondage and Degredation! Perfect! I'll never forget that now.
If the mortise needs to be central, it's good practise to route from both sides. You don't to do many to make it worthwhile making a stabilising jig to help with the tipping problem, side to side and particularly over the end.
Thanks, Marc. I still have to bang mine out with mallet and chisel, but whether using a plunge router, hollow chisel mortiser, or whatever, the "L" part is probably the most critical. If your layout is off then it'll show in your project. Thanks for sharing these tips!
your video is great for someone like me who doesn't have professional tools. I'm inspired to try making the mortises and tenons on the door I am building.
Yes I was watching the video and I think that my mind was so preprogramed that there was going to be a tenon part that It came like a shock when I was seeind that the video was coming to an end...hope you have the time to do an easy tenons too. Thank you stlll for this video...greetings from Canay Island.
what is the name of that tool you are using to measure and mark your wood around 0:35
Nice video and description! Thanks! Your videos, as well as others have inspired me to try my hand at my woodworking hobby. Starting with nothing and working my way up was intimidating, but the TH-cam community helped me gather the courage to try!
Subscribed! Thanks for all the wonderful info!
Must mortise videos don't go into detail and this one did. Thanks for sharing
I just use a Mor-tend jig. This has been serving me well for over 10 years and is almost fool proof and I have made many pieces of furniture with it. It takes about 3 minutes to make the mortise.
Sir, which bit and how many of them
Thank you! 👍
Brother is feeling very good. I really needed this video
Nice! Straight to the point instructional video without the special effects and bullshit. Therefore, I will stay as a subscriber.
Hi Mark
GREAT tutorial any chance of a series on easy ways to make joints
Thanks, that’s exactly what i needed 😁👍
Hi, can ve make mortise and tenons easily with a fixed based 6 mm Makita 3709 router?
Best explanation of a climb cut
Such an easy to pronounce acronym! haha. Good note on using one hand at the bottom of the base. I've done that and it does feel like it gives me some more control. - Jim
Could you make a video tutorial on the Bosch router? It would certainly help me out and other new woodworkers. Thanks.
Your instructions are clear, explanations helpful and examples very helpful. Thanks a lot , will be practising this today.
Also: Look Twice Before Drilling. Nice, quick video!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've been struggling with a mortice attachment on a pillar drill with no success at all.
th-cam.com/video/57i9lpOOpCs/w-d-xo.html
Wthout end mill bit is there any other but as cheap one,
Any recommendations for cheap (without being so cheap it sucks) plunge router? I'm happy to buy used, just not sure what is a good starter weekend-warrior model! Cheers, love your videos!
If the width of the mortise matches the width of the bit, which it will in many cases, the direction of the rotation means nothing. The real concern is being able to stop the router at the ends of the mortise. To give more control, don't take more than about 3/8" in depth on each cut. That will minimize the grab. Plunging the holes at start and stop is very helpful, as shown in the video. Easier still... clamp stops to your workpiece.
+TomKaren94 rotation direction always matters.
My thoughts exactly. It would seem that, along the axis of travel, one side of this bit is "pulling" in the direction of travel while the other side is "pushing" back. Wouldn't those two forces tend to balance when moving in either direction?
Rotation matters because of the router guide that rides along the side of the work piece. If you could put it on the other side of the router, you'd want to go in the other direction. It may not seem intuitively apparent, but if you go in the wrong direction, the guide will want to drift away from the piece. You can keep it against it, but you really need to pay attention. Do a hundred of these on a baby crib or something, and you'll know what I mean. Unless you want a curved mortise, you may want to listen to the man. I found this out myself, and created a few new curse words in the process.
You are probably right about the importance of rotation direction, but the unanswered question is WHY it is important in this application. The explanation given in the video is not accurate, as that example does not apply to the forces at work in a "plunge" cut. If the bit was moving right-to-left in the plunge cut shown, the rotating "leading edge" (arc) of the router should tend to pull the router toward the fence. This force can cause the fence to lose contact with the guide, resulting in the curved mortise that you describe. Moving the router left-to-right, in this example, has the cutting forces pulling the router fence toward the guide, which would tend to help maintain a straight cut.
What is meant by “loose” tenon and mortise ?
The upcut bit is where its at. I use an Onsrud 1/4 inch bit.... love it.
Move from left to right
Or from right to left ?
Love you work and teaching us new bee's. Do you recall exactly the bit you used in this video
Which is the best bit for mortise..
LTBD - looks totally badass dude!
paid comment ? hmm?
Paid comment?! BWAHAHAHA!
Thanks for this excellent video to learn how to make mortises. I am to buy a router, can you please tell what is the model you are using with the guide?
If you have multi pieces just make a simple jig, screw three wood stops on the stabilization piece . Two for the router on the top one on the side for the positioning of working piece .
Thanx! You remain incredibly composed & articulate. Keep up the good work!
If you put a dust collector addon to the router it should provide you some protection for your fingers.
I used to use forstner bits on a drill press to drill a mortise and then clean it with a chisel but this is so much better imo.
+The Wood Whisperer for how long those spiral bits stay sharp ? Theres no possiblity to sharp them again am I right? I consider getting one but Im thinking about carbide-tipped straight bit also. Cannot decide. Straight are cheaper but more hard in use I suppose.
Check out solid carbide end mill bits.
could you please try to do angle heat vent register
Great explanation . I still need some practice .Pushing against the left side now makes sence
What kind of router bit should I use?
Great, but how do you make the tenons??
Thanks for the vid. The acronym was awesome! Don't think I'll ever forget LTBD
Hi. What's the name of that adjustable ruller in the first of video?
Great video, it really helped me with my first mortises
Is it only work with up-spiral bit ?
Could you use a drill press to make a mortise?
Yup. The drill press can hog out the bulk and then you can use a chisel to clean up the walls and square the ends.
May I ask where you got your ruler stop? The brass one with lettering on it. Thank you.
I really hope this is going to be followed up with "Quick & Easy Tenons"!!
was gonna say the same thing
Don Vanco They're floating tenons. Either buy them premade or make them with a router and roundover bit.. then just cut to length.. I've been using a chisel and mallet all this time, but it's time consuming.. I might actually start using my router someday after I evict the bird that built its nest behind it on the shelf.
pics or it didn't happen
i was about to ask you if you are Italian from Italy , then i saw a video on your channel, and nope , your english is to god to be a born and raised in Italy :)
Anyway , greatings from Parma ;)
He's got at least one video specifically about cutting tenons, but yeah I do agree. I think people would like that.
cool...now for the tenon?
Very nice marquetry of your logo on the workbench. How did you cut it? It seems too big for a fretsaw. Cut by laser? What veneer is the orange color (e.g. sides of the plane in the logo)? Or is it died veneer? Beautiful color. Thanks for reply.
What do you do with the round corners? You square them with a chisel? Do you round off your tenons? Or you leave the mortices round and the tenons square, but making sure the part that has the tenon covers the entire mortice? Thanks.
In this case he was making mortises for loose tenons. Essentially using a router instead of a festool domino.
In English (as spoken by the English in England and many others across the Commonwealth), an acronym is a PRONOUNCEABLE word, e.g. radar, laser, FLIR, NATO. What you refer to is an initialism.
Did you not hear the man's flawless pronunciation of the word LBTD??
I agree with Don ... could you not also use a drill press?
+Michael Dillon of course, but you'll have a lot more work to do
Good video, what is the name of ruler you are using? Also brand of your spiral drill for use with router. Thank you.
Mark I haven't been keeping up lately. That was not a 1,000 Festool router.. then I remembered you decided to step down the price point of your everyday tools to help with your channel appeal since anyone using a 1,000 router is likely not checking TH-cam for mortise advice and people enjoy seeing things made with tools they are likely to own (Your words). This type of video and format has a similar and enjoyable aspect to it.
MorRobots screw that I wanna see the 10k dollar tools being used so I can Drool
Regarding the image on wood over your left shoulder, have you done a video on how you made that? If not, will you?
Great info. Next with the multi-router.
Thanks brother your teachings are unique , understandable.
Whats is the name of the drill in the market
Now we want a quick and easy tenon video!
just found this. Thank you for explain that and showing how it is not that difficult to do.
The LTBD community would like to thank you for this PSA.
I think we need a LTBD march in Washington for equal rights for the LTBD community.
@@86c5corvette
That's a great idea! We've definately been discriminated against and are victims. We need action!if people don't believe in mortis and tennon joints then they are spreading hate.
Another reason you push with the edge guide on your right is that the leading edge of the router bit is rotating towards the edge guide and so it is pulling the edge guide tighter to the wood. If you go the other way you will be fighting to keep the guide against the workpiece.
I said that. :) th-cam.com/video/yZr_tvra--0/w-d-xo.htmlm56s
The Wood Whisperer Ahh, I misunderstood what you were saying at that point. It sounded to me that you were saying it would tend to slip in a way that would make the mortise longer. I was thinking of preventing it from going wider or diagonal.
Can this also be done on router table?
What's that bit called?
Thanks for your presentation
Routers are just too messy for me to want to use them as often as I should. I go the drill press / chisel route for mortises, takes longer, but no dust.
What's the maximum depth per pass when mortising?
What is that drill bit?
What is the name of machine and bit name and how many mm
Use a pillar drill with a bit the same size as your mortice then just trim the rest with a chisel. Essentially using a morticer. Easy.
Hello, at :30 of this video, where can one find the sliding engineer square, please?
Hi there. Whats the name of the tool he used for layout?
What the name of the bits Sir and the size
Stupid question...because I don't remember if you are left or right handed... when you push the base of the router with your left hand is that because you are controlling the top of the router with your right hand at the top or because you are controlling the base of the router with your left hand at the bottom? :\
I am right handed. And the direct answer to your second question is both. I am pushing forward with both hands but most of the forward motion is coming from my left hand. My right hand is controlling the top side of the router helping to prevent tipping and just keeping things balanced.
Do you have a link that you can share where you got the apron from that you're wearing? Thanks
So how's this work with a mortising machine?
Thanks Mark, now I finally have a use for the turret control on my router...
Is the traditional mortising machine dead?
Ummm what has happened to your right arm?