How's up for some Capri Sun? 😁 You'll see why I'm asking that if you watch the video 😂 BTW. do we have any CSL DD owners here, what's your experience? Sim Racing on BIG TV - th-cam.com/video/SdwKHiSg2V4/w-d-xo.html THREE REASONS You NEED a Sim Racing Rig - th-cam.com/video/QcHfKPaNQQw/w-d-xo.html
@@MattsPaddock can't buy a fanatec in my country, only Logitech is available. The T300RS GT and Alcantara Edition is crazy overpriced here because it costs more than $500 - around $550
great video, thanks! Just wanted to add it's possible to buy the 5Nm version and then buy the 180W boost kit to 8Nm, that's the same price as buying the 8Nm directly... So I would recommend to buy the 5Nm and then buy the kit if you feel you need it! You end up with a 8 Nm with an extra 90W transformer.... Isn't that right?
@@GorillaGoat21 Just curious as I can't seem to find a definitive answer, does the 8 NM PSU just add force that the wheel uses which makes it harder to turn or does it provide more feedback over the bumps and whatnot? I have the 5 NM version but it feels "squishy" and not very responsive (esp. in the Next Gen) but not sure if the 8 NM wheel would fix that or not. Or maybe its just my FFB settings I need to adjust in Fanalabs? Thanks for any insights!
Hi. I noticed that the maximum measured power for 8Nm was 54W. Have you tried to mod the 5Nm brick in order to have 2V+ and 2V- and check if you get boost? Considering the power is well below 90W it should work like a charm.
In theory, yes, but it's possible that the peak spikes are not recorded with this power meter, plus maybe there are some scenarios that could pull above 90 Nm, but I couldn't replicate it.
I'm new to sim racing, guys One question : if I get the 8NM one, can I adjust it from the Fanatec driver settings, to behave as the 5 NM one ? Thank you
I'll try to get my hands on one, would really really love to see it in action (I think I could get away with only the wheelbase, since I have the rest)
Yes. Actually, you can do better. But the CSL Elite power brick and make a barrel plug to 4-pin adapter. It's the exact same power supply. Just a different end
Warning! Within 4 months of light use my FANATEC McLaren wheel cracked at the shifter pivot point and where it mounted to the QR. I was accused of over tightening although I used a torque wrench set at 3nm. FANATEC then replaced the wheel chassis admitting in writing it was a weakness in the wheel. Very soon after my CSL load cell pedal failed. I sent a video before sending the pedal set back as requested. I was required to make a follow up email after not hearing back. FANATEC said they can not fault the pedals asking if I want then sent back which I found a strange thing to ask? Eventually they were returned however within minutes I experienced the same issue which was consistent with magnetic interference from the CSL DD wheel base before the load cell pedal would completely shut down. I was beyond my limits at this point and driven to warn as many potential customers as I could while demanding a replacement. Following the usual delayed response, FANATEC then offered a replacement only if a show proof that they faulty load cell was again on its way back to them. FANATEC’s poor response time drove me to desperation. Keep in mind I have owned this new product for around 6 months when 2 major failures occurred. An electric technician overheard my experience and offered assistance. I was able to demonstrate the issue and within minutes the technician diagnosed a defective voltage regulator attached to the load cell circuit board. The voltage regulator is designed to reduce 5 volts coming from the wheel base or USB down to the required 3.3volts. There was no signal out of the regulator which he replaced. No thanks to FANATEC I am now enjoying my sim racing again while I hold my breath for the next FANATEC failure. Please take my advise and look at the FANATEC’s own forum in regards to all the issues they have and their terrible customer service.
Might as well grab an R9 set and ditch this, them not including the QR1 for 250 fucking euros for a fucking power brick already says everything about how much they care about their userbase.
My T300 RS GT needs to arive on Saturday, please bro just one question, IS YOUR FAN ALWAYS ON? I’m so afraid because I’m from Bosnia, and I ordered mine from Germany, imagine waiting if something happens… and I read a lot about this problem. Thank you very much bro, enjoing in your videos and driving.
Thanks for watching! As for the positioning, I'm always moving about as I test new gear, so the result is not always be 100% right seating and wheel height/depth, especially with different style of games in the mix. I'll be testing a couple of new rigs in the next few videos, ones that are a bit easier to adjust on the fly compared to something like the P1X or TR160 I've reviewed before, so be sure to check that one later on 😉
Question: Whose DD Base also makes a very slight noise when it is switched on? It‘s a very slight high frequency noise. I use it with the Boost Kit which also emits a high-frequency noise. I would appreciate if you could let me know if your Base (and PSU) is COMPLETELY silent - when it's on. THX 🙏🏼
with the csl dd release, they had to push it back and redo stuff, this is most probably what happened. Was probably gonna be quite a bit more expensive (and maybe with more drawbacks).
Look here's reality. Since the announcement of a "Thrustmaster DD release" potentially either end of 2021 or early 2022 i held off from buying my wheel base. Now this "Hype" is more frustrating as anything for a First time buyer when I literally have access to the CSL DD today and get it by Wednesday. Im pretty sure it will give me a great experience and my story can be over lol
I got the 5nm bundle and the koad cell kit. My dilemma now is whether to get the 8nm boost kit first which is £160. Or the mclaren gt3 wheel first which is £220 Lol...
How's up for some Capri Sun? 😁 You'll see why I'm asking that if you watch the video 😂 BTW. do we have any CSL DD owners here, what's your experience?
Sim Racing on BIG TV - th-cam.com/video/SdwKHiSg2V4/w-d-xo.html
THREE REASONS You NEED a Sim Racing Rig - th-cam.com/video/QcHfKPaNQQw/w-d-xo.html
I don't have a racing wheel currently, might buy myself a T300RS Alcantara Edition, your video is nice though.
Thanks! How are the prices right now for T300RS?
Dont buy that thrustmaster crap. Invest in fanatec dog
CSL DD is definitely the better option, if you already have a wheel, I would rather save up some more and get it down the line
@@MattsPaddock can't buy a fanatec in my country, only Logitech is available. The T300RS GT and Alcantara Edition is crazy overpriced here because it costs more than $500 - around $550
Genuinely can't wait for thrustmaster to release the worlds first all plastic direct drive.
😂😂😂
Let’s give them benefit of the doubt first 😊
And thesame plastic toy kids pedals that comes with ridiculous bundle witch I used everyday when I'm on the race 😆 lol.
@@mrvtec1922 nah, tm pedals are good for their price, both t3pa and t3pm (when buy with wheel, maybe not standalone)
It coming
@@TheGRANCRU yeah, in 2024
I think for someone moving up from a Logitech G27 I think 5mn will do
you can always get an ebay boost kit for around $50 which is way cheaper than the $150 dollar fanatec one
@@Hunnidd100 this is my move. Gonna go with the five and get the Amazon brick. Reviews say it still register as Fanatec? Any truth to this?
great video, thanks! Just wanted to add it's possible to buy the 5Nm version and then buy the 180W boost kit to 8Nm, that's the same price as buying the 8Nm directly... So I would recommend to buy the 5Nm and then buy the kit if you feel you need it! You end up with a 8 Nm with an extra 90W transformer.... Isn't that right?
Yes, that's correct!
Iam gonna do the same , if the 5nm doesnt feel as sturdy as i want. Iam going to buy the boost.
@@GorillaGoat21buy the QR1 as well, no way the fucking plastic QR is gonna last
@@GorillaGoat21 Just curious as I can't seem to find a definitive answer, does the 8 NM PSU just add force that the wheel uses which makes it harder to turn or does it provide more feedback over the bumps and whatnot? I have the 5 NM version but it feels "squishy" and not very responsive (esp. in the Next Gen) but not sure if the 8 NM wheel would fix that or not. Or maybe its just my FFB settings I need to adjust in Fanalabs? Thanks for any insights!
Hi. I noticed that the maximum measured power for 8Nm was 54W. Have you tried to mod the 5Nm brick in order to have 2V+ and 2V- and check if you get boost? Considering the power is well below 90W it should work like a charm.
In theory, yes, but it's possible that the peak spikes are not recorded with this power meter, plus maybe there are some scenarios that could pull above 90 Nm, but I couldn't replicate it.
Dig these vids. Decided to sub. Keep up the good work!
Thank youuuu
Looking at getting the 8nm with the McLaren gt3 wheel do i need the qr1 over the qr1 lite.
I will be looking at getting the qr2 in august
Thank you
From one CC to another. Nice video. 8NM it is!
Thank you!
Great little video. Really good.
I like the style, too... Reminds me of someone.. Captain Jeremy Hammond 😉🙃👍
Or was it Slow Richard Clarkson? 😁
Yeaaah
Do you notice any smoothness difference between the CSL DD vs Simucube, any cogging on the CSL? Thanks.
Not worth 100+$ i bought a 50$ one off amazon
Does the wheel base work for ps5 and the f121 game?
This particular one no, but there is a DD Gran Turismo version od it that does, you can find iz on their website at the link in the description box!
I'm an xbox and PS5 user so I picked up the GT DD Pro and also a McLaren Xbox wheel and can now use my wheel on both consoles.
why
I'm new to sim racing, guys
One question : if I get the 8NM one, can I adjust it from the Fanatec driver settings, to behave as the 5 NM one ?
Thank you
why would you do that lol just turn down gain in game settings
The tgt2 is heavily criticized, but remains out of stock and impossible to get for under 1300 dollars in North America. Crazy.
I'll try to get my hands on one, would really really love to see it in action (I think I could get away with only the wheelbase, since I have the rest)
Kirlin Expressway
Kshlerin Course
Dickinson Springs
Watsica Circle
Tracey Estates
Kacey Village
Can you use the Fanatec Clubsport pedals V3 with the GT DD Pro?
Yes, you can (and should)
Yes, without a problem!
Purdy Island
Klein Walks
You remind me so much of integza! Even though subject are entirely different the jokes mixed with quality knowledge and the accent all similar!
Thanks, I'm gonna check him out!
Alene Route
Turner Drive
Sipes Camp
Laisha Union
or diy your own power adapter for like 20 bucks
could i just buy an aftermarket 180w brick to get the 8nm? over $200 seems crazy for a power brick
Yes. Actually, you can do better. But the CSL Elite power brick and make a barrel plug to 4-pin adapter. It's the exact same power supply. Just a different end
Giovanny Junctions
Warning!
Within 4 months of light use my FANATEC McLaren wheel cracked at the shifter pivot point and where it mounted to the QR. I was accused of over tightening although I used a torque wrench set at 3nm.
FANATEC then replaced the wheel chassis admitting in writing it was a weakness in the wheel.
Very soon after my CSL load cell pedal failed. I sent a video before sending the pedal set back as requested.
I was required to make a follow up email after not hearing back.
FANATEC said they can not fault the pedals asking if I want then sent back which I found a strange thing to ask?
Eventually they were returned however within minutes I experienced the same issue which was consistent with magnetic interference from the CSL DD wheel base before the load cell pedal would completely shut down.
I was beyond my limits at this point and driven to warn as many potential customers as I could while demanding a replacement.
Following the usual delayed response, FANATEC then offered a replacement only if a show proof that they faulty load cell was again on its way back to them.
FANATEC’s poor response time drove me to desperation.
Keep in mind I have owned this new product for around 6 months when 2 major failures occurred.
An electric technician overheard my experience and offered assistance.
I was able to demonstrate the issue and within minutes the technician diagnosed a defective voltage regulator attached to the load cell circuit board.
The voltage regulator is designed to reduce 5 volts coming from the wheel base or USB down to the required 3.3volts. There was no signal out of the regulator which he replaced.
No thanks to FANATEC I am now enjoying my sim racing again while I hold my breath for the next FANATEC failure.
Please take my advise and look at the FANATEC’s own forum in regards to all the issues they have and their terrible customer service.
Now imagine having a race car and having things break 😅 hope you don't have issues any more
Might as well grab an R9 set and ditch this, them not including the QR1 for 250 fucking euros for a fucking power brick already says everything about how much they care about their userbase.
Read the manual. It says max 1Nm torque, while you say you used 3Nm.
@@AndrewTSq I have an email from FANATEC’s Service Team confirming 3 Newton meters is required if it continues to come loose which it was doing
Viva Flats
Johnathon Falls
My T300 RS GT needs to arive on Saturday, please bro just one question, IS YOUR FAN ALWAYS ON? I’m so afraid because I’m from Bosnia, and I ordered mine from Germany, imagine waiting if something happens… and I read a lot about this problem. Thank you very much bro, enjoing in your videos and driving.
I have this wheel and have never noticed the fan even come on tbf but always get a weird burning smell after long sessions
@@deemacdon90 I’m using it every day for 2-3 hours fan is always on with T-LCM pedals work perfectly so far!
@@deemacdon90samen here
I think your wheel is too far from you but I’m just telling. Nice video your very helping me in my passion of simracing. ❤️
Thanks for watching! As for the positioning, I'm always moving about as I test new gear, so the result is not always be 100% right seating and wheel height/depth, especially with different style of games in the mix. I'll be testing a couple of new rigs in the next few videos, ones that are a bit easier to adjust on the fly compared to something like the P1X or TR160 I've reviewed before, so be sure to check that one later on 😉
Sir for long time use like 10 years which MSI 1650 card is recommended MSI 1650 ventus or msi 1650 gaming X please reply
Gaming X!
@@MattsPaddock sir which processor is good for MSI 1650 gaming X: Intel i5 11400 or 12400
Why is the TGT 2 considered a flop?
What size is that LG tv?
48”!
@@MattsPaddock Thank you! I was wondering which I should get the 42" or the 48" and you answered my question
Question: Whose DD Base also makes a very slight noise when it is switched on? It‘s a very slight high frequency noise. I use it with the Boost Kit which also emits a high-frequency noise.
I would appreciate if you could let me know if your Base (and PSU) is COMPLETELY silent - when it's on. THX 🙏🏼
I'll check that and get back to you!
@@MattsPaddock he never got back💀💀💀
@@MattsPaddockstill havent got back 😂
huge upgrade from a G923?
Definitely!
HUGE
Labadie Track
What kind of size tv is that? Looks like a perfect size
It's this, 48" one - th-cam.com/video/SdwKHiSg2V4/w-d-xo.html
I'm really disappointed with thrustmaster really
Which one? 😅
@@MattsPaddock the brand as a whole. Stringing us on with the DD release
with the csl dd release, they had to push it back and redo stuff, this is most probably what happened.
Was probably gonna be quite a bit more expensive (and maybe with more drawbacks).
I think he's referring to the Thrustmaster DirectDrive release 😄
Look here's reality. Since the announcement of a "Thrustmaster DD release" potentially either end of 2021 or early 2022 i held off from buying my wheel base. Now this "Hype" is more frustrating as anything for a First time buyer when I literally have access to the CSL DD today and get it by Wednesday. Im pretty sure it will give me a great experience and my story can be over lol
Morissette Creek
Isaiah Via
Thompson Michael Thomas Angela Brown Dorothy
sir which processor is recommended for MSI 1650 gaming X: Intel i5 11400 or 12400
I got the 5nm bundle and the koad cell kit.
My dilemma now is whether to get the 8nm boost kit first which is £160.
Or the mclaren gt3 wheel first which is £220
Lol...
I would suggest looking up for a diy 8nm boost kit...i would never pay 150€ for a power supply
Remember to buy the QR1 so the dogshit plastic QR won't break on you
One of the best video intros I’ve seen no cap
8 ..... just go for 8 unless you care about not putting too much strain on the shaft :)
I'm always up for putting strain on the shaft 😁 🤣
@@MattsPaddock Hahhaha how hard can it be?
Depends on which game is on the screen 😂
@@MattsPaddock epic comment :D
That's not how it works though, is it?