I'm so glad I found your channel today as I own a 2016 journey and was always scared to work on it myself but after watching your videos that are well explained and very detailed I feel confident about doing work on mines. I appreciate the videos brother keep em coming.
I would rather watch you do the job on most vehicles, your explanations are much better along with your fun to watch. Thanks my friend for giving all of us another great video. Keep up the good work. Along with the front wheel bearing on the Dakota which I forgot to comment on. Keep doing a great job.😉
Thank you man! Sincerely I appreciate the time and effort you put into making this video. I don't know if I can do this successfully but I feel confident enough to try now.
We are about halfway through and working on the right valve cover. The video doesn’t really mention it, but do I need to disconnect the stuff near the pcv valve to get that cover off? Great video-we are loving it!
Yes, there is a PCV valve in the back. I thought I put that in the video it was an accident if I didn’t include it, but yes that needs to be taken off in order to remove the back valve pan cover.
Thanks for the quick answer! We are hoping to finish the second part today. I feel like that’s where the issue is. You did mention that the valve is near there and how to slide the valve cover to the right as you remove it, just not what to remove before that. We have a 2011, so it’s a little different and we also couldn’t get the bracket near there off, but have worked around it. Your video is amazing and full of great info. Thank you again for posting!
We got that figured out but are having the hardest time getting the right side block in place between the timing chain sprockets. We are using the correct part and we cut it down as indicated. Any secret trick? We don’t have room to pound it.
@@SallyKrug-Shaffer OK the secret to that is. There is a bolt on the crankshaft pulley and you want to get a breaker bar or a longer ratchet to be able to move it back-and-forth just a little bit and when you move it to the left and to the right, you just simply push the cut off plastic wedge into place and you don’t have to really pound it into place because I know there’s not enough room to pound it with a hammer when you move, the cam back-and-forth by slightly turning the crankshaft to the left and to the right it will move those cam phasers the teeth on them, and you should be able to wedge that plastic tool right on in and then it should lock them in the place. I hope that makes sense to you.
Around 45mins into ur video did you have to release the pin to get your cam lock in place? I can get 1 side to line up with the teeth but not the other then if u try rotating the motor then the lines dont line up im really start to hate dodge
There’s only one small hole and it releases the piston so that the timing chain can be loosened from the tensioner and it gives you a little bit of slack. There is only one hole though that it will fit in. You should be able to see it and you’ll know you’ve got it right when you see that there is less tension on the timing chain.
The oil bolts on front bank were loose and I forgot all about it. And started car and few seconds later I heard rattle then engine stopped on own. The left exhaust camshaft was almost disconnected from phaser and their dots weren't lined up so I removed oil bolt to try to align. The 2 gzayo pics is my current status, how to fix? I can't get the needle tool inside the small hole to get chain slack
Do you mean you took it all apart and you checked every lifter because you can’t just look at them and know if they’re OK or not and you should also check your camshaft lobes. But if you check them, then it could be a variety of things going on if you could click on my Instagram at the top of the channel and send me a message and I will try to help you.
You are right I was just looking at the cam shafts and the appeared to be fine I started with the intake and it was fine (still replaced rockers and lifters) but when I got to the exhaust cam the 5th lobe from the phaser the rocker baring was shot ...thank you for the cool videos and all the help they provide!
Just make sure it’s not low on oil and do a new oil change if it’s not been changed in a while. If you still hear the ticking sound you will need to do the process in this video.
I can agree with you on the replacement of all while you’re in there. However I have to disagree on using offshore parts. For corporations the bottom line is all about profits. Experience has proven that ALL 3 auto manufacturers use China to cut costs on parts manufacturing. No one can prove that the “Mopar” part is not made in China.You only have someone’s say so and if you trust their word then I feel sorry for you. For the DIY person the replacement cost is pertinent. In Canada here I have used offshore engine parts and OE parts. Occasionally the OE parts fail also and the offshore part gives good performance. This job for me in Canada for just the lifters and rockers cost me for OE 24 of each = $672.80 …Amazon $160.00. Given that Mopar Gen 2 lifters and rock arms only got this engine to 132000 mi I’m willing to bet that Chinese manufacturers can get another 130000 miles and by that time if I still need to change them I’d do it again if needed. Just saying.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm so glad I found your channel today as I own a 2016 journey and was always scared to work on it myself but after watching your videos that are well explained and very detailed I feel confident about doing work on mines. I appreciate the videos brother keep em coming.
You are very welcome, my friend👍
I would rather watch you do the job on most vehicles, your explanations are much better along with your fun to watch. Thanks my friend for giving all of us another great video. Keep up the good work. Along with the front wheel bearing on the Dakota which I forgot to comment on. Keep doing a great job.😉
Thank you for the kind words, my friend and keep on putting out the awesome resident evil 4 videos 👍
Thank you man! Sincerely I appreciate the time and effort you put into making this video. I don't know if I can do this successfully but I feel confident enough to try now.
You’re welcome, my friend. Always believe in yourself.
Great video and excellent explanation.
Thank you for your kind words. 👍
Simply the best.
The plastic clip on mine @13:26 is like stripped right out theirs no head on it to grab. Any ideas?
We are about halfway through and working on the right valve cover. The video doesn’t really mention it, but do I need to disconnect the stuff near the pcv valve to get that cover off? Great video-we are loving it!
Yes, there is a PCV valve in the back. I thought I put that in the video it was an accident if I didn’t include it, but yes that needs to be taken off in order to remove the back valve pan cover.
Thanks for the quick answer! We are hoping to finish the second part today. I feel like that’s where the issue is. You did mention that the valve is near there and how to slide the valve cover to the right as you remove it, just not what to remove before that. We have a 2011, so it’s a little different and we also couldn’t get the bracket near there off, but have worked around it. Your video is amazing and full of great info. Thank you again for posting!
@@sallykrug-shaffer4067 you are welcome, my friend. 👍
We got that figured out but are having the hardest time getting the right side block in place between the timing chain sprockets. We are using the correct part and we cut it down as indicated. Any secret trick? We don’t have room to pound it.
@@SallyKrug-Shaffer OK the secret to that is. There is a bolt on the crankshaft pulley and you want to get a breaker bar or a longer ratchet to be able to move it back-and-forth just a little bit and when you move it to the left and to the right, you just simply push the cut off plastic wedge into place and you don’t have to really pound it into place because I know there’s not enough room to pound it with a hammer when you move, the cam back-and-forth by slightly turning the crankshaft to the left and to the right it will move those cam phasers the teeth on them, and you should be able to wedge that plastic tool right on in and then it should lock them in the place. I hope that makes sense to you.
Love the details
Thank you for the kind words.
Around 45mins into ur video did you have to release the pin to get your cam lock in place? I can get 1 side to line up with the teeth but not the other then if u try rotating the motor then the lines dont line up im really start to hate dodge
Thanks for posting this, at what milage did the rocker arms/lifters start making noise. I have 63,000. miles on mine but no noise yet.
They can fail at different mileage, but on this particular vehicle, it was at 103,000 miles.
Thank you@@Mr_Goody
@oiygfdxssfgg you’re welcome my friend. 👍✌️
At marker 46:12, are you trying to get the wire stick into the small hole left of the screw or is there another small hole behind it?
There’s only one small hole and it releases the piston so that the timing chain can be loosened from the tensioner and it gives you a little bit of slack. There is only one hole though that it will fit in. You should be able to see it and you’ll know you’ve got it right when you see that there is less tension on the timing chain.
The oil bolts on front bank were loose and I forgot all about it. And started car and few seconds later I heard rattle then engine stopped on own. The left exhaust camshaft was almost disconnected from phaser and their dots weren't lined up so I removed oil bolt to try to align. The 2 gzayo pics is my current status, how to fix? I can't get the needle tool inside the small hole to get chain slack
Man I have the same noise but I checked and everything looks good ?!? Any opinions?
Do you mean you took it all apart and you checked every lifter because you can’t just look at them and know if they’re OK or not and you should also check your camshaft lobes. But if you check them, then it could be a variety of things going on if you could click on my Instagram at the top of the channel and send me a message and I will try to help you.
You are right I was just looking at the cam shafts and the appeared to be fine I started with the intake and it was fine (still replaced rockers and lifters) but when I got to the exhaust cam the 5th lobe from the phaser the rocker baring was shot ...thank you for the cool videos and all the help they provide!
@albuquerque505newmexico you are welcome, my friend. I’m glad they’re able to help you and help the people that they do.
My car is started.to.make.that noise is not to loud but i can heard it can i use any special oil or anything. So it can save me the $$$
Just make sure it’s not low on oil and do a new oil change if it’s not been changed in a while. If you still hear the ticking sound you will need to do the process in this video.
I can agree with you on the replacement of all while you’re in there. However I have to disagree on using offshore parts. For corporations the bottom line is all about profits. Experience has proven that ALL 3 auto manufacturers use China to cut costs on parts manufacturing. No one can prove that the “Mopar” part is not made in China.You only have someone’s say so and if you trust their word then I feel sorry for you. For the DIY person the replacement cost is pertinent. In Canada here I have used offshore engine parts and OE parts. Occasionally the OE parts fail also and the offshore part gives good performance. This job for me in Canada for just the lifters and rockers cost me for OE 24 of each = $672.80 …Amazon $160.00. Given that Mopar Gen 2 lifters and rock arms only got this engine to 132000 mi I’m willing to bet that Chinese manufacturers can get another 130000 miles and by that time if I still need to change them I’d do it again if needed. Just saying.
Everybody is entitled to their opinion, my friend. 👍✌️
One other guy said this and you're taking his thing you're just following exactly what he is saying
I don’t understand what you’re saying or what you mean?