Make sure you check out part 2 where i swap the bolts around to ensure the torsion bar doesn't fould the bolts. th-cam.com/video/zYK5jMT5tNs/w-d-xo.html
This video alone gave me the confidence to do my BMC on my own 1957 moggy. A job which garages were quoting me £500+ to do! Thank you for saving me a monkey!!
I was expecting 🤬, anger, veins popping on foreheads... From factory the bolts were on the other way round, that's why the complaining about the torsion bar being in the way. Great vid! Looking forward to see how you get on! 👍👍👍
The bolt heads are thinner to clear the torsion bar. The special tools required to remove and replace the bolts are: a foot of two by two, a length of medium thickness rope and a long (6 to 8 foot) length of stout bar. Tie the rope around the torsion bar between the bolt holes, rest your bar in the rope with the end of the bar on your 2x2 which you situate under the master cylinder. Get someone to bear down on the bar (or get your leg over it if you're on your own), the bolts clear the bar easily. When you put them back use some short bolts on the inside end to line things up!
I have done this on my morris. The bolt heads are made about half the width of a normal bolt so that they don't hit the torsion bar. I found that on mine the bolts were rubbing on the bar the other way around. I just levered the bar down with a pry bar and they went in OK
Make sure you check out part 2 where i swap the bolts around to ensure the torsion bar doesn't fould the bolts. th-cam.com/video/zYK5jMT5tNs/w-d-xo.html
This video alone gave me the confidence to do my BMC on my own 1957 moggy. A job which garages were quoting me £500+ to do! Thank you for saving me a monkey!!
Thanks for watching!
Well mate. Don't let those few ' know all' guys get you down. Great video Thankyou .
Thanks 👍
Thanks a lot Mark. I'm looking forward to buying a 4 door minor in the next 2 or 3 months.
Thanks for watching
I was expecting 🤬, anger, veins popping on foreheads...
From factory the bolts were on the other way round, that's why the complaining about the torsion bar being in the way. Great vid! Looking forward to see how you get on! 👍👍👍
Thanks mate. I might see how it goes with the bolts this way though I suspect the torsion bar may hit the threaded ends
The bolt heads are thinner to clear the torsion bar. The special tools required to remove and replace the bolts are: a foot of two by two, a length of medium thickness rope and a long (6 to 8 foot) length of stout bar. Tie the rope around the torsion bar between the bolt holes, rest your bar in the rope with the end of the bar on your 2x2 which you situate under the master cylinder. Get someone to bear down on the bar (or get your leg over it if you're on your own), the bolts clear the bar easily. When you put them back use some short bolts on the inside end to line things up!
Thanks. Great idea. I actually ended up using a screwdriver and a jack as can be seen in part 2 as I didn't have an assistant
@@MarksWheels I've done more than I care to think about on my own that way. At 74 I don't think I'll ever do any more!
Thank you friend .I am from sri Lanka
Thanks for watching
I have done this on my morris. The bolt heads are made about half the width of a normal bolt so that they don't hit the torsion bar. I found that on mine the bolts were rubbing on the bar the other way around. I just levered the bar down with a pry bar and they went in OK
Cool. Thanks for that. Ill turn them around at the weekend