How Much Damage Does Dropping A Valve Seat Cause? - 5.7L Hemi V8 Failure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 เม.ย. 2021
- Today we are taking at look at the fatal flaw of the Gen III 5.7L Hemi V8, which is dropping valve seats. This issue was found in many of the 2003-2008 Hemis (pre-Eagle Hemi), engines under the hood of 9 different vehicles and many generations. This was an extremely popular engine, found in 9 different vehicles, and chosen on over 45% of cars and trucks where it was an option. It was also built at a profit, making it a financial success. But we’re not here today to talk about the success of the 5.7 Hemi, but rather the fatal flaw that has killed so many engines. This recently affected my Dodge Charger with the 5.7, so I decided to research the issue and look into it further, and shed some light on this issue, especially if you are considering buy a used vehicle that has this Hemi. In this video, we will look at the specs of the engine, and then look at the major issue of premature dropping valve seats, including what it is, what it affects, and how to prevent it from happening.
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#Hemi #Hemivalveseatdrop #HemiFlaw #5.7LHemi - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hey- ran a production engine shop that rebuilt 6000 engines a year in Nashville- did a lot of the Gen III hemi motors so we were very involved with the valve seats dropping - The vast majority of them dropped the intake valve on the right front cylinder so we started by replacing it on every head whether it had dropped or not only to have it drop another one shortly after it was installed so we decided to replace all of the intakes with new seats that were thicker and larger in diameter with a 0.007" press fit. I think the reason we had problems after we rebuilt the heads was because we cleaned them by baking them in the oven at 400 degrees for about 8 hours and shot blasted them afterward. This process worked fine on all other aluminum heads except for the 3.7L/4.7L and 5.7L Chryslers, because they all shared the same problem with the intake seats. We managed to remove some seats without damaging the bore and found that they had about 0.003" press fit which wasn't enough to hold them in the bore. We believe that the seat was structurally too thin- it measured 0.220" - to hold a press fit, especially when you see how much of it was removed at the top edge to create the angles for the valve seat. It is so thin at the top that you couldn't do a valve job on it and you could nearly cut your finger on the edge of it. It's interesting that the right front intake is located at the highest point in the cooling system so it would likely be the first to expand in a hot soak. Doug Anderson @ dougnash3@comcast.net
I didn’t have a valve seat drop but I had a rod bearing spun on my crankshaft a had to replace it. 400 for a brand new crankshaft not bad. I also had a valve job done on my heads. Because the fear of a valve seat dropping. So engine had 128,000 miles before the damage. Now my engine is back in the car and driving strong. I really enjoyed your videos.
I still love all the MOPAR engines
So do i
Love hate relationship. I feel like they're reliable until they're not.
Oof
Well they do say love is blind
I'm going through this right now with a 2017 Ram. Just under 100k, out of warranty and three years left to pay on it. It's a real kick in the nuts
Wish you the best of luck brother
My condolences did you get it done
Hey Frank, Ya I had to RnR the engine. Got a reman long block, had it installed, got the truck back and the motor blew next day. Builder said it was because I used the original intake manifold but the mechanic cleaned it and scoped it. The builder fixed the motor and I got a new manifold. Funny thing is I couldn't find an intake manifold anywhere because all the dealers had people waiting for warranty work on dropped valves. Cost me over 12k in the end.
...Seven months without the truck to boot, borrowing wheels to keep working.
Despite improvements to the Hemi, heat soak is still a issue, only now it affects lifters, instead of valve seats. The takeaway I get is let the engine fan do its job before shutting down your car, avoid excessive idling, and basic preventative maintenance done on a regular schedule.
Using a "turbo timer" on an aftermarket remote start system can help with the cooling off before shutdown issue!
Hyped for this 6.5L build bro giving me ideas for when I get my hemi!
Looking forward to the new build. Have one getting built by Ned as well. Hopefully get these built soon and get some testing this year.
Great video showing the effects of what can happen to an engine without warning of a potential problem. Shit happens!
What a heartbreaker! As stated, a couple of things combined to cause this...including whether or not a valve comes to rest in the open position. I can't imaging a valve seat having time to drop while running, but during cool down there's plenty of time. Someone here suggested cast iron heads for the new engine. I strongly agree with that idea. Sorry you had to find out the hard way.
I have so many parts to these engines because of this issue. The lifter rollers can be fixed very cheaply when you have alot of crap lying around. Push the bad pin out of the lifter, Go find lifters from a Chevy 350 with rollers or a 3.0L Ford Vulcan V6 OHV cast iron engine from a Ranger or Taurus. The Rollers are identical to the Hemi rollers. Note: The lifters themselves are not compatible, just the pin and rollers. Use grease to hold the needles in the rollers or you are going to have a headache on your hands....and head. I have several other roller lifters around my garage, and ALL of them have been compatible with the hemi rollers, so there is other engines that share these parts...just can't remember what they are. Edit: 2.2L ohv 4 banger from a 96 Pontiac Sunfire....really any GM OHV engine from the 90's seem to have compatible rollers. 3.8L v6 GM .
Hey bro, have you heard anything about the supposed upcoming release of a HELIPHANT powered 2022 Dodge Charger??? I just watched a short vid on this beast that Dodge is going to put out soon. Could you do a video on it, frankly your vids are always much more informative than the average Dodge dudes channel's. 👍💯
I have an 06 rt. My formula is a 180 t-stat, turn off mds, and setting cooling fans to come on at 195 degrees. I also keep pit stops to a minimum. If i have to get gas I try to fill up when the engine is moderately cold or leave the engine running while pumping.
This EXACT same thing happened to me with my 260k mile LS3! Stopped for a fountain soda, started up again, heard a click noise from the engine and immediately turned it off. Wouldn't start again. Pulled the engine out and when I took the heads off I found a dropped seat. Luckily it didn't detonate the piston! I'm stripping the block and taking it along with the heads to a machine shop for rebuilding but when you described what happened to you, that's precisely what happened to me, and with no overheating.
We do take for granted that cars used to be built to last only 100k if lucky. The odometer only went to 99,999. My old Buick with a rocket olds 350 only put 170hp out and wasn’t designed to last for 100k. Now we expect engines to last at least that long with over double the power. I have a 13 rt plus awd with 100k I just bought and has had perfect maintenance. I use auto stick on the highway to disable the cylinder shutdown. It has an after market exhaust and had a bad drone at 70 when the cylinders deactivate. But goes away when I put it into 5th gear. I’m hoping it helps, but who knows. If it does go, I’ll just put another motor in an run it till the car dies. Here in pa, the bodies usually go before motors though.
The valve seats were too small for the machined hole in the heads. Chrysler knows of this problem but did nothing to address it because most dropped seats happened after the warranty expired. The problem has been addressed in subsequent engines.
I heard that its good before shutting them down is to let these motors idle to cool down a little. It was just a matter of time. I hope the block can be saved. I'd like to swap a 5.7 into my D150. When people have lifter issues with the older Hemi they should also rebuild the heads to deal with the valve seats.
X2 true. I've seen one hemi rebuild twice because of shrapnels left in the intake manifold
Yep, #6 also, I sent you a couple of pictures on Instagram DM, I found a 04 truck engine, different timing cover, different intake definitely but those should swap right over, never had DOD I don't believe I will miss it hit me back when you get a second.
That's terrible. Such metallic carnage. Made me cringe. Sorry that happened. It's nice you put out the video. Don't know what you can do to prevent this other than reworking the heads on a high mileage engine (new valve seats). But that would be EXPENSIVE. As far as heat soaking goes, you'd have to drive the car mildly after flogging it before shutting it off. That would be a major inconvenience.....but could save thousands of $$.
I’ve experienced this too lol luckily cylinder 1 was the only bit of damage replaced piston and head all good still clean at 187k miles🙌🏾
Did u have to hone the cylinder wall?
This recently happened to my 06 dodge rt I'm devastated right now and don't know where to go next I might do a rebuild myself.
Using original heads on a rebuild that had 183 k on the clock of course engine hours being higher and one thing being a master technician I've learned about this... The hemis do not like running hot... Now at 223,734 mi engine still purrs like a kitten using the original heads just took them apart cleaned them lap the valves new valve seats clean the heads plane them... And simply run it on 91 or higher octane with a 180° thermostat it runs cool I get heat sooner in the winter and it's stable in the summer makes plenty of power and I'm writing this to you while idling in the 05 Durango with 223,734 miles on it purring like a kitten. The only reason why the engine was redone is because I bought the truck for 500 bucks and the lady didn't put oil in it for 3 years and the motor seized up. So using the original block I got another Durango for parts for 500 bucks... And I simply use the crank and heads from the 183,000 mi Durango that had a bad piston in it due to detonation from low octane gasoline. Been builds up on the low octane gasoline around the edge of the piston slowly pushing on the head on every cycle over time until it blows a head gasket. This happens to all engines running cast iron blocks with stretch head bolts and aluminum heads. The higher octane Burns cooler which is always forgotten of course it's higher resistance to predetonation due to heptane levels... But simply put you are with you eat. Total cost for building the Hemi since I used the truck for other parts... Using my original engine block and the crank and heads and intake from the donor. (By the way both trucks had 183,000 on it which was weird but meant to be I guess.) I spent $415 for rods Pistons rings and rod bearings from an 09 ram that had 5,000 miles on it totaled by a tree I got off a guy on eBay... So all I had to do was the hand work all in house gaskets main bearings water pump timing chain timing chain guides basic bull crap for an additional $265... I built the whole motor installed TurnKey for $680 + my labor... Yes you lose a little bit of compression with the smaller domed Pistons that they move higher on the rods but they are stronger but I'm still using the stock original high mileage heads and valves matter of fact the rest of the vehicle is still mechanically all original just maintained with proper fluids... But no valve seat drops or rod piston issues. Run good gas 91 or higher octane with a 180° thermostat and you will notice a huge difference in startup and performance of the vehicle by your second tank once you've given the computer a chance to map out your driving habits throttle responses etc even though there is a base tune. On a technical note using 09 rods and pistons from a 09 and up 5.7 l in an older 03 to 08 5.7 l you will notice the Piston does not come all the way up to the deck by a few tho. By doing this makes the stock tune a performance tune then run 91 on the stock tune with those rods and pistons and it will be the same as the stock rods and pistons with a 91 tune aftermarket. I didn't have to buy a tuner for pushing performance out of the old girl because where the Piston stops for the deck the computer thinks it is the original rods and pistons as designed so the ignition timing is maxed out perfectly with the lighter rods and pistons which are also stronger which lightens the rotating Mass and has allowed my 223,000 mi 05 Hemi Durango pull away from my 06 16,000 MI yes 16,000 original mile Hemi limited Durango 2006. I have one at high mileage and one at low mileage and the 16,000 mi Durango simply got super unleaded or 91 or higher octane with a 180° thermostat and she runs cool and clean no issues and don't expect to have any. For the guys running super unleaded or 91 or higher octane and keeping their fluids clean is not enough the thermostat must be a 180. That 180 thermostat coupled with 91 or higher octane that burns cooler and do the research on temperature Burns for octane levels and you will find cooler gases escape faster through the exhaust system... The cooler burn and thermostat help against thermal expansion in the head and head gasket as well as temperature surface across the face of the piston as well as the valves and valve guides especially the exhaust valve guide. I'm out here to argue or debate this I have done it it has worked and I have 40,000 miles on top of old equipment with new gaskets and seals and bearings I tow with the vehicle and I drive it hard and put it away wet... And I'm still using the original valve seat pressed heads off the parts Durango that came off of an 04 which was built in 03 which were the problematic ones. You ask why I didn't use the heads that were on my Durango is because of the oil situation and the fact that they were warped bad and not worth the effort to rebuild even though they did not drop a valve seat. Took both trucks made one truck after 5 months still drive it to this day.
I have been following looking at your videos for about 3 months now I'm about to buy a 06 RT special road edition I'm going to make sure as soon as I'm bad that I have all three valve seats replaced as well as the cylinders thank you so much for the advice
Yeah definitely do it. I was going to but I didn’t and look what happened lol
If it weren't for you I might know neither old school chargers are about to become the next 64 Impala
I mean all of the engines from the FCA side of Stellantis has it's issues some worse than others. But I still love them all except the TigerShark.
Sorry for the engine loss, on a different side note, do you think there will ever be a hellcat 300?
Just got my 06 Daytona with 120k lifters just started eating the cam. Sending the heads to get ported and valve seats staked in. Ring gap cam and nitrous.
I wondered if it was more of a newer generation of 5.7s but I guess it's possible 4 all 5.7 hemi's to drop valve seats,, so it would be better to remove the heads and replace em w aftermarket ones ( performance ) before this happens
Cool vid, love the Mopar muscle!!!! 💪
Mine dropped months ago but instead of buying new engine. I want to rebuild. Is it possible even with the damage done to cylinder?
Hemi last forever, mine got almost 300,000 and has over heated twice, no valve seat issue. If you don't - upgrade- plugs or spark, you will probably never see a valve seat issue with these engines. This explains why it's almost unheard of in fleet use.
Joe Gibbs, So, are you saying that when you put in new plugs just go with the same factory type?
Ommm I'm a new subscriber and I would respectfully like to say thx u....for narrating it over pls dont ever do anything else....makes it more understandable and way more informative....🥺😂🙌🏾So yh instead of seeing a person face we see the car and u narrating so we can relate to it u get what is actually going on.....understand I'm trying to say.......
Same here just started to look for a new engine swap
Is think the same thing happened to my 05 5.7 recently.. what did you do , did u drop a new engine in to get rid of it. Idk what to do next , I just got my whip towed to my home. Do u suggest getting a new engine or fixing it.
3 valve Ford 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8 Triton engines can have the same issues as well to a certain extent. More common on the 5.4 engines.
Dropped valve seat on my #2 cylinder piston shot see no signs of damage on any other cylinders is it possible to replace piston and have heads done or will there be metal still in the engine
I've heard that a 185 thermostat will help with the issue keeping the engine a little cooler.
You can also turn on the AC (which turns on the engine cooling fan) and put the heat on full blast to cool and coolant before shut down just for a minute or 2. This cools the coolant way down. Kinda excessive but it really works if you have been racing or something lol.
What are your plans for the car now ¿ , not really sure what I would do myself
it looks like there was significant run time after the seat dropped. You probably should have stopped it immediately when it sounded bad. But that could be hindsight, I dunno.
Did you reuse your block did you have to bore it or did you just hone it
Sucks man! Love the Hemi but they’ve got too many Issues. I had one eat a cam due to lifter that came apart at 130k. Never had any other issues with it
I think heat soak/overheating have big influence but still is not direct reason. There are other engines with aluminium heads and deactivated cylinders, and they don't have that problem which btw dissappeared with Eagle generation Hemis. This gets me to conclusion that Chrysler had insuffiient quality control/tooling at that time.
Yep my 07 did it little under 100,000. Same thing I shut off the car ate my lunch tried to start it up 20 min later and wouldn't start making strange sound finally started and making all kinds of sounds! Mine also was doing something before the dropped seat that I couldn't figure out what was going on. Once engine was nice and warmed up and driving in traffic at a stop light it would have a strange stumble at idle then be fine. A few times it stalled and didn't want to start then was fine. Only did it after being nice and warm for a while and then would do it at regular intervals. No doubt in my mind the valve seat was trying to drop out while sitting there idling at a stop. Was wanting to mod it anyway so now gathering parts to stroke her to a 396.
I just recently found your channel again. I was planning on getting hellcat replica wheels for my 2012 charger se. I was wondering if 20x9 rims would be a good fit on a 265/40-20. I dont want my tires to be stretched and dont want the rims to stick out of the tire. I would like it to be a near perfect fit inside the tire
Hey yeah that’s a seemingly perfect fit in my eyes. Not too wide. The 20x9 and 265 should be great if you don’t want the oversized look, and it won’t stretch out the tires
@@MarspeedCars thank you so much man for the feedback. Just subbed
I have been driving Mopars all my life I'm 66 now still have my first car a 71 Charger needs restoration but that's another story but right now I have a 2013 Ram with only 30K I'm retired don't drive much and had a 09 Challenger only two of the 3 gen hemis I've had experience with so no high mileage experience yet but in all my years of driving Mopars with the older small and big blocks I never had any major issues with those engines so this problem with the new hemis is very discouraging I'm not giving up I have always done my own work on everything and for other people on the side so I guess I will see what happens right now I am using royal purple oil in the Ram I do regular service on the other stuff so I will see these cars and trucks these days cost to much to keep replacing.
I fw that beat fr fr
You always know it's a marspeed video when the Buddha music kicks in. lmao
I have a 07 jeep commander with the hemi with 180k miles. Still drives with no issues
With respect towards Chrysler products, because I loved my '98 Durango 5.9 4x4, I'm going to have to give a hard pass on the Hemi. Not all of us have the money to throw a new engine into a car 🤷. But to each their own...
The newer hemi's with the Eagle heads don't have this as often. it's mostly the older ones.
@@ryotaryuu But the newer engines fail from lifters eating the cam lobes.
It doesnt' happen to all of them. I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum RT I bought new and it hasn't happened to mine YET with 116k miles on it. I love the car and I don't regret buying it. People who are that worried could pull the heads and get the seats replaced. If the seats don't drop the hemi will last many hundreds of thousands of miles.
@@williamwhite9767 that has been proven to to be in less than 5% of all hemi's.
@@williamwhite9767 I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 with 180k miles and haven’t had this happen and I drive it A LOT. Actually just changed the spark plugs on mine recently too I love these cars you just gotta keep up with them
Wow!! Hopefully you can build a healthy engine
Mopars are awesome... ESPECIALLY the classic ones from the 1950's-1970's... But , When Daimler got ahold on the company, a lot of things started to go wrong. The 3rd gen 'Hemi' engines, are not actually HEMI-spherical combustion chamber designed... Aluminum is light and looks good, but problems with warping and softening when being overheated has always meant that it is not as durable as cast iron... Many OHV & OHC engines with aluminum heads have problems retaining hardened valve seats, like what happened here... And the results are DISASTROUS on interference engines, as seen here when that happens... Not to mention that other problems have developed with these 3rd generation 'Hemi' engines... Like the issues with the failures of lifters and camshafts... These later 3rd gen 'Hemi' engine designs, have not held-up well at all after some miles were put on them... It is one of the MANY reasons, that the earlier cars & trucks , especially those from the 50's - 70's , typically have so much more interest from potential buyers... Less to go wrong, more reliable....
They run hot, you need vents to keep the engine bay from retaining the heat, and proper cooling system maintenance, and potential high performance fan.
Well glad they fixed the issue with the newer 5.7s
how what did they fix??
@@dawonnejackson7316 the valve seats in the pre eagle 5.7s they tend to drop valve seats after 100k cause they used steel valve seats on a aluminum head so the head would expand more more so the seat would drop and when you go to start it it would basically destroy the motor
question, so if the block is ok and all that was damaged was the heads and pistons, could i just replace them instead or you think i should just swap it
Yes absolutely, I kept my block as well in my new build. Everything else was new
Rebuild (if possible) or crate engine will be a lot cheaper than buying a new 30k+ vehicle. Don't give up!
I’m doing a 6.5L stroker motor build, all NA! Thanks man
@Don't get well boi , The 'crate' engine, would probably save money, VS an overhaul... But, it would probably still have the same inherent problems, waiting to surface - that this machine had... The crate engine, would facilitate the sale of this troublesome vehicle, and the owner could then recover a fraction of the $ they have poured into it... Maybe they could re-invest into a restored classic Mopar, or other make of vehicle, from the 50's-70's.... THAT, would then generate the performance the owner deserves.... RESALE VALUE...
@@MarspeedCars Do you think when my 5.7 gives up what should I do ?
Yeah I'm going thru the exact same thing right now 😩
Can the block be reused ?
What will scratches to the block cause to happen if just replacing the pistons
And not repairing the scratches
This is a cool video
Let me ask. I have a 2005 dodge ram 1500 4.7 and this guy Martin on TH-cam keeps telling me that I have a dropped seat valve. I don't believe it because the truck starts up fine, there is no banging sounds, no smoke. I do have 60lbs compression in cylinder 8, when I removed the valve cover on the passenger side, the rocker arm fell off from cylinder 8, the very last rocker arm. I tried putting it back on and it's loose and pops back off. The horsepower is horrible and so is the gas. I also put a new spark plug in cylinder 8 and less than 5 minutes it was black already.
Just started going through this in my 5.7 300, engine swap has to be done block was ruined, we loves these cars but man oh man it's a price we pay lol
My car dropped 2 valve seats, smdh I almost gave up on Mopar. That is a terrible feeling. 2 motors in 3 years.
Pot metal pistons?
Could i drop a 09 engine in 08 body??
2005 Jeep GC same issue here
I saw a vid a while back where this mopar guy tore down the 5.7 and examined it. His observations were something along the lines of a very restrictive oil routing.
Side note: Am I the only one who finds the 5.7 engine cover hideous!?
Yeah, I took mine off my 05 Magnum RT
Love hemi’s bro but down the line the motors be expensive asf cause of said problems. I was going to buy a magnum RT but decided to stick with jdm/ Japanese makers cause of reliability and quality as well as prices for parts and labor lol well plus you know, it’s uhh American 😅😂
I heard the Hemi out of the jeeps dont have the drop seat problem and are direct drop in?🤔🤔🤔
Any 5.7 after 2008 doesn’t have this particular issue. They have their own problems
Jeez!! The well known sludge monster 2.7s don't destroy themselves THAT bad!!
I'm at 243,000kms on my 2009 300c Hemi and not a tick or anything to be heard. How to I keep from dropping a valve seat?
You’re not affected, only 2003-2008 hemis, so no need to worry
@@MarspeedCarsohh Sweet but I still could have lifter problems? Sounds pretty healthy, just the typical injector sound
I feel for ya. My 2010 RT 5.7 has 201,000 miles and running like a champ *knock on wood*.
I believe the 2009 and newer ones have their seats pressed in better?
@@carlweeks9256 yup.
Have you had to replace cam and lifters yet?
@@xMarkie nope. Absolutely no major engine work.
@@13slot28 Damnnn!
My seats dropped 4 weeks ago, I’m doing a complete performance build but am sticking with the 5.7 displacement so I can run more boost in the future
Adding displacement will not limit boost. Adding compression will.
@@chrishernandez2490 adding displacement weakens the block, I’m not planning on running a supercharger, I’m planning to go with turbos
@@chearchie4472oh ok, I guess yeah if you have it bored out. I was thinking of a stoker kit.
@@chrishernandez2490 well a lot of strikers require the bore to be bored out somewhat from my experience, but I think that bigger displacement works well with superchargers but not so much with turbos
@@chearchie4472 I have seen and worked on Mining equipment engines having over 3,600 cid and 4 Turbo chargers, Producing about 2,200 dependable - extended duty HP, and we'll over 3,200 lb-ft of torque... But to that high output, there is a price... Weight, complexity and HUGE amounts of heat that has to be dissipated... Because of the complexity, size and weight of that machine, the CO$T of operating it is very high... Why not stick with a good running naturally aspirated machine? Fewer things to go wrong, less trouble to work on and much less $ to operate... Just saying...
This will prevent me from getting dropping valve seat on my 2006 dodge ram 1500 5.7l hemi.
My other video explains tips that *might* help prevent it, but you can also just fix the heads which will definitely prevent it just costs $$$
@@MarspeedCars thanks
@@MarspeedCars what do u mean by “fixing” the heads? Do u mean replacing the valve seats or something?
Question: Could the insurance company have written you a check and you could have bought a new Charger?
EDIT: I recognize the amount on the check might not be enough for a new Charger with a HEMI engine.
Love this song
Same 😅
Do you have to do the timing again
Can you let me know
My R/T road and track just did the same thing now it a shinny brick
How many miles what year ?
Exactly same problem with my 4.7 H.O 😤🤬
The 3.7 V6, 4.7 V8, and 5.7 V8 during this time 2003 to 2008 could have this issue.
Hey , do they make "HEADS" that are "CAST IRON" for those motor? If so, I'd get them, instead of the "Same old shit" happening again!!!!!!!!!
It's the 5.7. They make everything for these. The real question is, what will he go with?
I’m doing a 6.5L stroker custom motor, the only Hemi part left are the blocks and using eagle heads
I doubt any aftermarket head will have this issue, factory has build variance a cylinder head company has much better craftsmanship and tolerances.
And why add 60lbs?
I plan on buying a pair of remanufactured heads after watching this for my 06 Chrysler 300c. Rather be safe then sorry.
🔥🔥👍
Heh viper v10 swappl
6.5L stroker swap instead! Viper woulda been nasty though haha
Even the viper has been known to drop a valve seat during those years, 2003 to 2008.
It´s easy to prevent these HEMI´s of that dropping valve seat issues, i´m very sure about that.
Anbd that is to get a electric water pump, what would turn the cooling water circle after the engine is turned off...for round about 10 minutes or something else like that. That´s it in my eyes, because in the highest point of the cooling liquid/water circle the cooling isn´t right after shut off the engine. Because heat bubbles in the water circle are the problem in my eys. and the highest point of that water circle is even the area arround the valves. and when heat bubbles instead of cooling water/liquid in this area can´t cool the aluminium of the cyl.heads like it should be, or is when the engine is running and the water pump turns the water arround all areas of that cooling water circle. So if you could make that the water circle is turning for a while after the engine is shut off, you should not get that much of the heat expansion of the aluminium. The heat expansion arround the valve seat rings is that little to high, that the rings can fall off the bore where they´re located/pressed in. And if you´re using a little electric 2ndary water pump, that will let the water circulate in the system, the problem should be solved. because then there shouldn´t be that problem of the heat bubbles that come on when the water isn´t moving arround the hottest area, what is that highest area arround the valves/seats.
I often give you such comments that would help a lot, and i hear that you never thinked about that or told it in your videos for example, what i told in this particular comment, what really could solve that issue. I hope it isn´t a problem that i´m from Bavaria, Germany or something else like that , but i really think about why there isn´t any answer from you on any of my importand comments here.... Can you tell me that, please???
Because my most intention is to help the guys & girls who loves these nice Mopars, with that nearly perfect modern HEMI V8 engines, that could be a lot more perfect if these little "Build in issues" could be solved. And vola, that´s my intention; TO HELP TO SOLVE THE PROBLEMS....
Before you got your Daytona, i got mine 2006 Daytona, Top banana! with nearly 140.000mls on the odo. The 1st what i did was change the stock water thermostat into a 180°F/82°C Thermostat. & because the Motor Oil Temps was a little to high for my taste, i also build in an 15-Row Radiator for the Motor Oil Circle. I mounted it with an aftermarket Oil Filter Adapter what is also with an thermostat that opens also at 180°F/82°C, that the Motor Oil can circulate to the Radiator & cool down. Now tha whole opperating temperatures droppet round about 25-30°C what is a really nice drop. But even because i think the problem is that about that there would build up heat bubbles arround the Valve Area in the heads when the engine is turned off, i thought to solve that with even that i told above; a 2ndary electric water Pump, that go to work when the engine is turned off, for roundabout 10-15 minutes. Then that issue of droping valve seat rings should really be solved.....That´s what everybody should do to prevent that. And in my eyes it isn´t that hard to make this little upgrade/modification to the car. It could safe you tons of money, tons of work time &tons of nerves, too! & it could be safe a lot of nice cylinder heads & also whole 5.7L HEMI engines that really could life nearly forever, if the owner would to the right things with it.
I think i really could help a lot of owners of these amazing nice vehicles to really have fun with it for a long long time, even with such a comment... Hope to hear from you &/or about this optional modification to prevent th dropping valve seats in your next videos about this topic ?! :)
Have a nice day & a lot of fun with your Daytona! :)
Cheers Till
Oh, and just look at "HEMI-spherical", what is new channel, where you could see my Daytona at the pictures, some videos will follow this summer when i´m doing the next modifications about the electric water pump to prevent droping valve seats. My Channel has the intention to help owners of these Mopars and many more witt even such topics. But it´s new and still in the moment, in the winter time i´m not driving the Daytona in the salty, snowy condition bavarian roads, even to prevent rust! ;P
Time for some 6.4 Heads...
If MOPAR was "smart" they would "comp" your new engine....
The last engine with this issue was a 2008, 13 yrs ago. Never would even consider it.
🔥🔥🔥👌💯💯
Damn…
What is MDS?
Multi-Displacement System. 4 cylinders shut down at low power to save fuel. The lifters collapse so the valves don't open and the fuel injectors are shut down.
One has to love that Fiat Chrysler quality. After this, they made them with the cam so high in the block that the splash system wouldn't properly lubricate the roller lifters when idling and that's why there's so many police cars with rounded off cams and worn-out roller lifters. Such quality. I bet the new French owners will do even better than this! There is no more Mopar and there hasn't been for years.
The 5.7 Hemi is pretty much all Mopar as it was on the table when DumblerBends married Chrysler and ran off with Chrysler’s $billions in a war chest.
The 2003 to 2008 hemis are the same design as far as cam/lifter placement. Something different causes the lifter/cam failures in the 2009 up hemis. 2009 is when they went to variable cam timing and something isn't right.
I really wanted one of these cars and as far as the so-called retro muscle cars goes oh, I like it the best but I just can't afford to deal with the valve train failures which I know I will eventually encounter. There's also a rust problem with the challenges because of all that foam they pump into the rocker panels and rear quarters. But it's still my favorite looking of all the Retro muscle cars of lately.
@@jameswood678 Lots of new vehicles have their own issues. Even toyotas aren't as reliable as they used to be because of all the complex designs that have been added for emissions and economy reasons. Buy what you want, not what cosnsumer reports recommends is my philosophy.
@@williamwhite9767 they've been making the internal combustion engine over 100 years by now and they still can't manufacture a reliable valve train in a pushrod engine Chrysler or Fiat or whoever the hell they are now. That has nothing to do with whatever Consumer Reports says. That is just sad.
Nice car
Thanks!
Reasons why I skipped on a C6 Z06. Good luck man!
Time for a crate engine! Or Hellcat engine.
Well... I still live mopar. I’d be upset a little but probably not a lot.
My wallet feels for you!!! Do similar things happen to Chevy and Ford V-8 engines?
Ford guy checking in here,
The 4.6 3V Triton engines have cam phaser and catastrophic timing chain tensioner failures.
@@chrishernandez2490 the 5.4 3V Tryton is the worst.
And the chevy engines from about 2007 up have lifter/cam failure problems when they went to "Active Fuel Management", their version of MDS.
Hi dude when ur is ur car be ready
Yes I Love Dodge in Forza Horizon 4
Srt ghoul broooooo
Time for a 6.1 swap
*6.5L stroker! 🤤
I'm currently paying $3300 for this & I never rev the engine, just local driving,no hauling ..nothing...So how the fuck does this happen to a truck I baby & only have 62000 miles on & it's a 2015 ....I'm questioning what I'm gonna do with this truck cuz it obviously cant handle all the wear and tear of being parked 90% of the time
Not your fault, it’s just a design flaw. All the Hemis have something that affects them one way or another and it can happen to any engine at any mileage. Sorry to hear you’ve had problems
yes why would anyone want to stop refuel then continue driving thats silly
that a lot of damage dodge wrong for this
Lord the good guy charge me 1600 labor charge 250 to send the heads off to get repaired. And buy my own parts.
Honestly seems about right for what a shop would charge. The engine is basically in need of a rebuild