Jacks Transmissions SST Teardown and Inspection Dual Clutch
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มี.ค. 2021
- Jacks Transmissions SST Teardown and Inspection Dual Clutch. We specialize in SST repair and upgrades. We build our own parts in-house and thoroughly test each unit before heading back to the customer.
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I just love watching and rewatching you tear this SST down. You're very thorough and systematic. The way you explain while you work is priceless. I cant wait to get my funds together so I can send you my trans, my ACD and my AYC all for a rebuilt. Maybe a bit overkill - but you can't put a price on safety knowing all those units were looked and rebuilt by someone like you. Thank you.
Wow thanks! We have so many more parts and changes we can now make after this video was made. Let us know when you're ready and we can do anything you want!
I was thinking that was my SST...mine is holding up great! Runs like a different car! Thanks Jack!!
Awesome videos sir! Very informative and very awesome to see the breakdown of what you guys do. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you sir for the detail vid with forming an understanding of the SST issues as you are walking through the video. Honestly i appreciate it 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
thank you for the video jack transmission for showing and efforts ! need more video of SST tear down and repair videos :D
Had mine done by you guys, I have new appreciation for what you guys do after watching your videos. I always hear people say to stay away from Jacks and only go to Kozmic. I think I'll stick with Jacks Trans...
Nice to see a knowledgeable tech. I was going to get a ralliart, but this transmission changed my mind.
Great video! I’m about to send my SST to you guys. Stopped shifting and had a leak. Not excited but I’m happy I don’t have to pay the OEM price :)
Hell yeah! I'm the dope from North Dakota that left the line filter on. And shipped it with a rope holding it to a pallet lol sorry. What a coincidence that you just did the video. Also I broke the vent off the shift linkage. I'll be learning from you for a while
About time you guys made a video on this SST 😅 I love seeing these tear downs. Keep it up 👍
Within the next couple weeks will have another on how to replace the speed sensor in the SST.
@@GVR1670 I wish this was available years ago, I had to make my own tear down install videos to help others who were struggling.
You have all my future business. 👍
full send bro never lift! mobbin deep!
Jack u the man
Great videos! 👍👍 What kind of cleaning solution are you using on the inside parts to avoid damaging ferrous parts like bearings etc?
💪🏾💪🏾
This video was awesome. The SST seems delicate in some regards but also looks to be a pretty amazing piece of engineering, just some poor design decisions like using glue that that seems to fail on the fork magnets. Seeing all the gears and baskets and keeping it straight seems like quite a task for a newb. My ‘11 MR only has about 55,000 miles on it.
Oh man! Jacks Transmission. If this is the brand/company I’m thinking about I was hoping years ago you’d be the SST guys. I want to have some peace of mind with mine (100k)
What he took out at 6:56 is that the mechatronic unit?
Sir Make a complete rebuilt and inspection video of gr6 transmission
still doing SST services? im thinking in shipping mine overseas to you guys!
when you locate it please tell me i do have lancer ralliart 2009 same sst trans
Hi Jack, just out of curiosity in regards to the shift fork magnets. Wouldn't be a better idea to replace ALL of the magnets with the full billet magnets instead of just the 2-4? Also in regards to the axle seals for the SST front driver side, how are those removed and installed? Can you make a video one that in the future? Thanks
None of the others have the issue with the magnets. Sometimes 3/5 fork will get a little loose but it’s rare.
The axle seal is like any other axle seal for the install. Nothing special there. However, Mits did have different sized seals for that area (of course) and you just need to make sure you get the right one. There are ways to check the case so as to know what you need.
More!
They're so complex and delicate it's a wonder they work at all! Incredibly, my 08 Evo has over 300,000km on the clock and is still on its original clutches with (touch wood) no problems yet. Jack, can you recommend any place in Australia for a trans service for when the time inevitably comes? Thanks, and very informative video!
Unfortunately, I do not know. Jacks Transmissions in the USA can ship parts you need and give tech support if you can find someone to do the work.
@@GVR1670 thank you, that's good to know.
@@emlix1depending on where in aus you are, ak racing in brissy and rp Motorsport in syd
hey jack, i’ve got 08 Ralliart and the cars been on and off the p1875 code for around a year, car hasn’t gotten better or gotten worse, would you recommend just changing the torque damper sensor? i’ve already got a upgraded shift fork waiting to go in
It’s hard to say without having it apart. This platform is aging so it likely needs more than just a sensor and fork. You can try, but getting to the speed sensor requires tearing the whole trans down.
I'm wondering where is your shop located?
Hi Jack. I've got a question about preventative maintenance with these SSTs. I have a 2014 MR I bought new in 2013. During break-in and the warranty period I was overtly gentle with the car. After its warranty expired I did the whole bolt ons route, tune, and some other work and got the car to the upper 300 wheel HP. I have the Kozmic Motorsports Dodson Heated Sump kit which adds the built in thermostat to protect from overheat, the larger billet transmisison pan for larger capacity, and plumbs into the car's heater hose piping to be warmed during startup and cooled during operation from the car's radiator. (Also have an upgraded Mishimoto radiator to keep up with the additional heat being put into the sytstem from the trans). On top of that I also replaced the OEM trans cooler with an AMS cooler, and during all this also changed the transmission fluid and put in the stainless steel washable reusable filter from SSP.
This was around 2017. When I did the fluid change the transmission fluid looked like it had come out of a car with 200,000 miles on it. It looked bad. Didn't smell burnt or anything it just looked god awful dirty. I remember it bothered me enough to call the dealership to ask if Mitsubishi put a break-in oil in these cars that was supposed to be changed out after 500-1,000 miles or something. As I said before, I grandma'd this car for 95% of its time on the road, with the other 5% just legal speed "spirited" driving on public roads. I bough this car in my 20s with my own money so I have always had a bit of mechanical empathy with it. The car gets garage stored during the winter, and has just over 20k miles on it, but I have always wondered why in the world the trans fluid and filter looked like it came out of a junkyard truck from the 70s. I have had some slight issues with the transmission "slipping" where you give it gas and the car just acts like it doesn't want to go until it will finally "catch" and go. It has also thrown a trans code once or twice, but once cleared never triggered again; its been so long I don't even remember what code it was. So with all that backstory aside, with the issues these transmissions can have, and me just now finding out about the potential broken spring issue, is it worth the trouble and expense to pull the unit from a working running car with relatively no issues (aside what I stated), to basically "bulletproof" it and add the upgrades just to get it done and over. If anything else than to get that ever present worry in the back of your head of "I hope the trans doesn't go" to be a little less prevalent so you can worry about the next thing.
Yes unfortunately everything you thought was right is in fact wrong. The SS Line Filter doesn’t filter anywhere near as well as the OEM paper element. So by installing the filter you are allowing more material to pass through the system and more chances of that material getting caught in the pump, sump filter and solenoids. On top of that the heated sump doesn’t work. It is popular and we remove every single one of them that we see on any unit that arrives at our facility. Your fluid and how it looks is common as the heated sump burns the trans up.
1) Remove the heated sump junk and reinstall the OEM pan. I don’t know who said those are a good ‘upgrade’ but they are not.
2) Remove the SS Line Filter and install a paper filter that will actually catch something.
Unfortunately it might be too late in your case. The paper sump filter deep inside the trans has likely been working double duty thanks to the SS Line Filter and is likely not allowing the volume needed to pass. Also, the solenoids on the valve body are likely plugged up with a mixture of metal and clutch material goo. The solenoids attract this inside the body and they become lazy causing inconsistent fluid pressures and clutch crossover.
Sorry but your issue is far too common. It is repairable and we are more than happy to help. New sump filter, rebuilding the valve body and removing the aftermarket parts will allow the unit to function correctly again and not kill the fluid.
@@GVR1670 Well I appreciate the information and I'll deffinitely think on it. I'd deffinitely want a few more second opinions before ripping off parts. There's just a few things I want to clear up:
I don't know if I specified time frame, but that fluid that looked horrible was taken out as I put the mods ON the car, not from fluid after they were put on. That was from a complete factory car. There weren't mods on the car to ruin the fluid. So it's not as if aftermarket mods were the cause. That fluid had around 12k miles on it when I changed it over, and the car was the same was it was when it left the dealer.
As for the heated sump, how do you remove them when they show up? The only part that would be on the transmission itself would be the larger pan. I don't mean to sound distrespectful here I am just generally curious. Larger fluid pans equate to more thermal mass and have been a 'upgrade' on cars or even trucks for that matter for decades. It's thermodynamics, more fluid means more thermal mass to prevent spikes, and then you cool said fluid. I've seen it work very well on hot days at a track, whereas with the OEM setup I literally had the transmission overheat and go into limp mode on a very hot day in bumper-to-bumper traffic. In this setup I've had it run on a road course and the temperature never budged. So I am just generally curious why you would think they aren't useful, and even dentramental enough to want to remove them?
As for the SSP filter, I agree the stock paper filters have a better micron rating. When I put that on the car the OEM filters were pretty expensive, especially if coming from the dealer. I got the filter during a sale and figured I'd end up saving over the next few years, but the price for new paper filters is now like 20 bucks so that one didn't pan out so well.
@@fubar5884 we have put a huge amount of work learning about the valve body for many years. Everything from the issues which plaque them to the software. We can get the mechatronic to shift the SST like an r35 GT-R in normal mode with no slip at all. We have noticed that a large number of people using the heated sump run into early valve body failures. Units we received with the heated sump typically have a failed valve body. So on paper it may look great, but the reality is parts are failing with that part installed. Don’t you have an issue right now with your trans?
Removing it is simple. You pull it off, throw it in the trash and reinstall the plastic pan. More fluid in the unit makes no difference. I’ve been fighting with this logic for years across the board on all DCT units. In fact, most larger sumps will create cavitation issues with most units that are road raced with them. The factory pan and factory fluid fill works just fine if you’re using a good cooler. Thermal mass will only make a difference (and a very small almost unnoticeable difference) if you have a problem- like overheating. It will not stop the overheating, just delay it. I see this with ALL platforms. People have an issue, install a bigger pan and the issue is still there. It’s an excuse for people to make money building useless ‘billet’ parts that look cool.
Sandwich coolers have been used more on modern cars to get them up to temp. For an engine it is critical to get it up to normal operating temp ASAP and they work well with that. The cooler you have is not a sandwich cooler. It’s just a tub that holds coolant and you hope that the heat or cold will transfer quickly via the cooling system when the fluid is up against the sump. With the SST we found that the cooler it is the better. Whoever put it out there that you need to have your trans up to 200+ F ASAP is costing people mechatronic units. The SST is not happy doing this. We have put a huge amount of time studying this and low temps in the SST is fine. The reason they may feel more slippy when cold is all in the software. It is NOT a hardware cold temp issue. There are only so many 200f cycles it can have until it fails. If we have a failing mechatronic we make it fail via high temps. At 180f or above the mechatronic will act up and fail our tests if it becomes problematic. These units do not like anything over 180f. With your cooler, you ate forcing it over 180f every time you drive it. Then the mechatronic fails, you have pressure and clutch crossover control issues and well- here you are.
Hey. Where can I buy a speed sensor for the SST box? I can't get it anywhere, please help. It is for three wires, from the dct 450 box it does not fit.
We would need to see your speed sensor. We can likely match to something here. email at shop@jackstransmissions.com
awesome video! i'm actually about to tear mine apart because it has a p184b shift fork magnet issue. do you have any recommendations for forewarnings?
It’s not too bad. Likely the magnets are loose or broken on the fork. If you need a replacement I have billet ones in stock :)
@@GVR1670 that would be awesome! where would i be able to buy them?
You can email me directly. I don’t think we have them on our website but I have them in stock. We install the billet magnet upgrade on all of the SST units as it’s a common issue. My email is shop@jackstransmissions.com
@@GVR1670 bro i need you help
So I hVe a brand new sst and it drove fi e but next day lost R 3 4 5 6. Any ideas If trans need to be re but or is it possible it's a faulty Valvebody?
Was it rebuilt by someone or was it a replacement from Mitsubishi?
hello. wheres the part where u replace the damper speed sensor?
Did you not watch the vid? It's toward the end where I check it on our test station and everything.
How big should the gap be in the clutch? I have heard that 4mm is too much and 2mm is ok. How little can it be?
What brand clutch frictions are you installing?
@@GVR1670 Don't know what brand, no name maybe. I have a problem that when I try to run Clutch System Learn with Forscan, I get the error code Clutch Ventilation Learn Error. I thought it has to do with there being a very small gap in the plates after I changed to the new ones (gap is ~0.5 mm). Thought that if it is tight between the plates the flow will be too low and it will result in Clutch Ventilation Error. But I really have no idea what Clutch Ventilation is. If you believe or can confirm my theory, I will remove the transmission from the car again and change back to the old friction pack. Am I on the right track or do you have another suggestion?
@@chrilleerikson5560 Do you have a pic of the clutch frictions? I'll know by looking at it. If you reinstall the OEMs you will get random fork errors due to clutch drag, so I wouldn't recommend that either. Reinstalling used OEM frictions never works in the SST. We've tried it countless times. It will look like it works, then the errors start coming.
I know I'm supposed to use OEM transmission fluid in my sst. Have you seen problems with Amsoil DCT?
Have not tried it but I can't imagine it would be an issue. Should be totally fine.
@@GVR1670 thanks for the advice. The Amsoil DCT has been in my Trans for a few months now working great shifts smooth..
Where I can find you guys if I need a transmission problem
Hello, we are located in Colorado:
Jacks Transmissions
3920 N Weber St
Colorado Springs, CO. 80907
719-268-6011
Can the 4B10 engine be fitted with TC SST?
I have no idea.
Can a 4b11 with CVT be converted to SST? TIA!
Yup it's possible but you'll have to add the awd components
are you located in the usa
Yes in Colorado:
Jacks Transmissions
3920 N Weber St
Colorado Springs, CO 80907
719-268-6011
But what did it cost
Final Cost probably about 5k. At least that's what I was quoted a month ago.
@@AkedaLvl999Do you just ship your whole car to them?
P1833