Looks just like the one I pulled out and changed today. I cannot tell you what a difference it made. The engine runs super smooth again. I cleaned a lot of creamy sediment out of the air tunnel too. The old PVC was shot and had been shot for a long time.
Two tips for this: 1. To pull out the PCV I used a locking plier with cardboard around the metal. It didn't want to come straight out but by twisting it it just almost fell out. So if not budging straight up, clamp onto it and give it a slow twist. 2. When drilling, do so horizontally to minimise the potential for metal shavings to fall inside.
Nice vid! However, you are actually supposed to apply a sealant before inserting the new PCV Orifice (or Valve), based on the Workshop Manual. Also, when you insert it, you need to twist it in order to eliminate any vertical leak paths in the sealant (still based on the manual instructions). By the way, the manual I have is for a 2008 - 2011 Cadillac CTS, which includes 3.6L V6 LLT engine (same as yours) and other different types of engines, but this procedure would also apply to yours. Some RTV sealant would work (Permatex Red High Temperature RTV for example). I have the same engine on my 2008 Cadillac CTS and I am planning to do this soon in addition to doing some manual intake valves cleaning (which requires removal of intake manifold, etc.)...right before the next oil change. Free advice, I would also encourage doing the following to improve your vehicle's performance. I have personally done these and can't be any happier. You can research about it if you don't trust me or are not confident enough: - Use some Fuel System Cleaner in the gas tank (STP worked greatly for me) - Replace the engine air filter (if needed and based on maintenance schedule) - Clean the Throttle Body Assembly - Clean the Mass Air Flow sensor - Add some Lucas lube in the oil (make sure the oil level doesn't go over the limit on the dipstick) - Replace the spark plugs if needed There are many other things you could do to improve your car's performance. Cheers! 😉
Thanks for the added instructions! My manual doesn't have any RTV needed, but it's always good practice to put a little in these sorts of applications. It can't hurt in sealing 100% any vacuum leaks. I haven't done a smoke test on my car, but it runs really well with no codes so I'm pretty sure the PCV Valve mod is working well.
And for Australia there was the GMH (General Motors Holden) engine made in Australia from 2004 until October 2017 known as the Alloytec (3.6L), which started life in Australian cars with the VZ Commodore in 2004. Also has the PCV valve.
To be fully honest, my PVC valve wasn't clogged or anything when I performed the modification; however I felt after watching many videos on the subject that it couldn't hurt to do the modification, especially since GM enlarged the PVC valves on all 2014/later Camaro models. If GM did it, there must be a good reason. And with a catch can, hopefully that will stop valve choking due to the GDI issue.
Shoot a couple of squirts of throttle body cleaner down the pcv now and then, keeps it clean, we have a 2005 Caddy srx pcv looks brand new, also put some grease around base of pcv, easy in and out.
Possibly. If there is too much positive crankcase pressure it could create overheating problems, or blow-by. I think the timing chain issues are due to these cars consuming a lot of oil, the owner not routinely checking the oil, and therefore lack of oil stretches out the chains and causes failure.
I'm guessing this same technique would apply to an SV6 Commodore with the LY7 Alloytec. Have a catch can that seems to be empty. Yet my air intake has a trickle of oil into it from the PCV intake
probably. Do those engines have small holes that need expanding due to potential sludge buildup? I'm only familiar with the LLT. although I do know that the Commodore is based on the LLT. So in theory, they probably do. You could always pull the PVC valve and check the size of the holes. If the 7/64th or 5/64th bits don't fit, then drill them out a little bit and put a catch can on the car.
I haven't yet, but I am planning on putting a second catch can on the "clean" side of the engine. It would make sense to do both since gasses vent out of driver-side valve cover into the air intake same as the passenger-side valve cover. I hope it works out
@@bigilworth I've yet to install my clean side one. Car got T boned few weeks ago driving home from work. It wasn't a hard hit fortunately. Until I get it back from being repaired it's all going to have to wait
While I will be using your solid advice. I just don't see the point of buying a new one once it is drilled out the old one would be no different than a new one . Also may I suggest using a socket to refit the valve instead of hitting it directly. Cheers
Absolutely true! I bought a new one so that I would have the old one as a spare in case the job didn't work for some reason and I needed to switch back to the old one.
What is the tube coming from left aft side of the engine and connects to the intake tube near MAF sensor? I have cold air intake and oil near MAF sensor
The tube connecting the back of left side to air intake tube is another pressure release area. Unlike the PCV side, the left side is under less pressure, so less to zero oil should escape that side. I have oil coming from that side too and it pools near the throttle body. I've been wanting to put another catch can on that side of the engine, but I have not gotten around to it. You'll notice if you take the hose off that there is NO PCV valve regulating how much pressure can flow through the hole.
@@bigilworththank you sir. what about to disconnect it from the intake and left it freely, let the oil drop down under the car. Or it will not work because of some vacuum inside intake manifold?
@@bigilworth One more. I asked same question from the overseas forum and they said that our engine is going to die.. Oil comes into intake only when compression rings (piston rings) are worned out and all rings have to be replaced. I don't know how to proceed now
@@DIABLO_4_Tester_Sacramento Do not do that - its illegal for emissions and will cause engine damage, the Tube attached that you are talking about connects to the T-intersection between the Throttle Body and downsteam of the MAF sensor, so any air the PCV/CCV system uses is metered air by the MAF entering the crankcase via this tube, if you disconnect this "clean tube" inlet - you mistakenly will a) let non ECU metered air enter the crankcase and b) suck in dust and debris that will damage the internal bearings, oil pump, and cam phasers etc. The opposite rocker cover that this video is showing the mod for has engine vacuum (post throttle body) on it 95% of the time during idle and low revs, so this promotes it sucking new air from anywhere else - this is the purpose of the clean air tube - to let in filtered and ECU measured air on your "passenger side" rocker cover/ The PCV system really should be called the "Positive Displacement Ventilation System" - as the engine vacuum on the PCV port promotes positive displacement and suspends the acids and blow by in the air. If the Clean Air tube all the way through crankcase to the PCV orifice/valve is not gas tight - including a badly sealed Oil Cap and Dipstick if will stuff up the proper ventilation causing stagnate foul sludge to sit in the engine, and can even cause engine lean out as its a unmeasured vacuum leak around the throttle body essentially - This is the reason modern Oil Caps and Dipsticks have O-rings on them.
@@robywankenobi32 thank you for reply. I improved pcv valve. Per your opinion, does 6.2 engine more reliable than 3.6? I would change car because of 3.6 eats oil and transmission is very weak
@@bigilworth If you look at the applications for the PCV valve (click the part number to see them) on Rockauto, it covers up to 2017 models, although not the Camaro. Was the fix not applied to other models with the 3.6L? Or maybe it was, and the PCV valve is a revised part?
@@brianleeper5737 To my knowledge the PCV valve only needs modification for 2010-2013 models. In 2014 GM "fixed" the issue by enlarging the holes. Before I did the mod, all the websites I consulted referenced just buying a new 2010 PCV valve and enlarging the holes. I could have probably bought a 2014 PCV Valve to see if it would work (since they are so cheap) but I never did.
@@bigilworth If this PCV valve weren't so difficult to remove you could just pop it out and hit it with some carb cleaner once in a while, like we did with the older cars. It's in the back valve cover on the 3.6L Impala (which I assume has the same issue as the Camaro with it plugging up over time)...which wouldn't be so bad if it weren't in there so tight.
My 2020 had a misfire the other day it didn’t stall out and it hasn’t happened again but I’m bringing it today to get look at by Chevy I hope it’s nothing serious
My car misfires all the time. I bought one of those code reading devices. My Camaro misfires because of a detected O2 sensor fault, but I've changed out the O2 sensors and I still get the fault. So my guess is a vacuum leak and I'm too cheap to buy a smoke machine or have a mechanic do it. I would suspect your misfire is due to a vacuum leak rather than the positive crankcase pressure which is what this video is about.
I found mine on Amazon and I could drill it out myself but I want it today and the dealership has one, do you think the parts from the dealerships were modified or just the ones installed in cars post 2012? Thanks in advance
Buy the one from the dealership and check the hole size with the proper drill-bits. If they are too small, then you know you'll need to drill them out and make larger.
I'm SO glad I've watched vids about this issue!! I've got a gorgeous Cranberry colored 2015 Impala LTZ, with the 3.6L VVT. 70,000mi on her now in Feb. 2022. YES! Somebody brought up Seafoam!! For yeeeeaars now, I've been adding 1 Cup of SF to my Crankcase 1-2 weeks before an Oil-change. NEVER more than 5K mile intervals!!! Always Mobil-1. Per the Owners-manual, the ONLY Gas it's ever seen is NO-ETHANOL Certified TOP-TIER CLASS Premium.....from Shell or Holiday Stations. Once a month, when the tanks are @ 1/4, I put 1/3 bottle of SF into the tanks. ALL my engines (big & little) are running STRONG & clean. How many bottles of SF did I buy in 2021??? >>> TWELVE
Thank you, glad you liked the video. My Camaro has 145k and still going strong. I don't anticipate any issues with it at all. Have you installed a catch can on your Impala?
My catch can is always empty? Engine runs fine. Last 100mile trip and about 50 miles city driving gas millage was 25.4 mpg. What'd you think? p. s. Got 101,155 miles on engine. Always use Pennzoil platinum. Never removed intake though..
That's crazy that your catch can is empty. I literally just opened mine after 5000 miles and had 4 ounces of oil/water mixture. If you checked it after 100 - 200 miles, you probably didn't drive enough to generate any oil. Check after 1000 miles and I guarantee that you'll have 0.5 - 1 ounces of oil come out. I've been using Royal Purple for the past 2 years, (22,000 miles) and I've noticed less oil consumption but no change in the amount of catch can oil coming out of the PCV. Let me know after 1000 miles how much oil got caught by the catch can. I'm curious.
@@bigilworthI just changed my spark plugs. "probably could have cleaned them and reused them" I didn't have a bore camera, but my intakes were clean. Take my word for it. I used an inspection mirror and narrow beamed high intensity flash light. Nothing in catch can, but a light film. It hardly showed on my finger when I wiped the inside of the can. The only problem I had was removing the plugs. they were a little too tight, and I took my time. Used anti seize on new plugs Looking for another 100k. Hope I didn't jinx myself. P.S I don't sissy my car. I never was a putt, putt driver. I get on it whenever I can.
Not sure if you can buy one with bigger holes. But you can buy a new one and drill out the holes. If you have a vice and a drill, you can get the job done!
yes. It's just an open chamber that creates a specific bar of pressure. If your PCV valve is all gunked up inside, you'll want to clean it out with brake cleaner.
The hose that connects to the PCV valve has a little sliding lock mechanism that you slide to the left. Slide to the left and pull up. Should do the trick.
Not sure, but the PCV valve is so cheap, it wouldn't hurt to try a 2014. Get the correct drill bits and test the holes in the 2014 to make sure they're the correct size.
that's correct. Crankcase builds up pressure and the PCV valve has specific size holes to allow the pressure to escape - but you need a catch can because oil droplets are mixed with the gas.
For this project, I drilled out the holes, and then I added a catch can. I've put 15,000 on the car and I do not notice any performance difference. Before I did this, I took the plenum off and did a manual cleaning of the valves (at 107,000) to get all the gunk off. I suppose the real test is to see how much gunk buildup there is since doing this project. Is it worth it? I'm not sure. I can say with a certainty that my catch can captures about 4oz of oil/water mixture every 5-6k oil change I do. So I must be avoiding some damage to the intake by preventing all that oil from coating the valves. I think at the very least, you should put a catch can on your car.
@@bigilworth yeah mate, I did the whole drill it out thing, with the same drill bits you showed, waiting on the catch can in the mail.... My pcv vavle was clogged an all the hose were clogged, it was in terrible state I just bought the ute.. so hopefully it's not too far gone! God knows how long it's been like that for! Probably never got change from day 1:(
@@markpalmer9360 Wow that's awful that everything was clogged up. Your PCV valve sounds much worse than mine. In your situation, modifying the PCV valve should absolutely make a difference. And a catch can will truly help prevent coking of the intake valves. If you're skilled enough, I would take the plenum off and see how bad the intake valves are coked with soot. A manual cleaning would go a long way. Also, you might want to try some sea foam added to the oil to help loosen up any deposits that might be floating in the heads or the timing chains.
@@bigilworth yeah matey, It's not good I was getting gunk on the oil lid, like yellow stuff it's not a blown head gasket thank God, Its consendation from having pcv clogged I guess, yeah so, seafoam is the way to go mate ? And with the covers do you need a certain torque on the bolts when you tighten them back up ?
@@bigilworth hey mate installed the catch can and it filled up in the matter of a drive around the block, I take it that's not normal,,, Or maybe it's been clogged up for that long it's just come out,, I dont know what's your opion ?
I took a pair of pliers and pulled upwards on the PCV valve. It's a little hard to get out, but it does. No need to replace the valve cover. In my video I show how I get the PCV valve out at 3:06. Good luck! Let me know how it works out for you.
Alright thanks I’ll give it a try, I have a 2013 Cadillac XTS with the GM 3.6 VVT direct injection engine, and I couldn’t find anything online about how to remove it, some sites say to replace the entire cover.
@@Jbrown99th Oh yea I definitely don't believe you need to replace the entire cover. I have removed the valve about 4 times so far and no leaks or vacuum leaks.
CHEVROLET 2010 CAMARO 3.6L V6 Exhaust & Emission PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS V518 {#12574094, 12583384} I bought it from Rock Auto. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2010,camaro,3.6l+v6,1444222,exhaust+&+emission,pcv+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+valve,5052
I installed an oil catch can right after performing this job. Jd5179, you are correct that a catch can is extremely important after performing this service. I didn't address that in the video, but it is my suspicion that anyone willing to perform this service will have fully investigated the oil catch can need.
I fail to see the logic in any of these comments. Nor do I think it's truly possible to get 5-10% hp gain from any modification unless it is turbo or nitro. I would highly discourage drilling out the PCV valve or plugging the manifold intake port. First, routing from the PCV to the throttle body doesn't lessen the issue. It just makes the throttle body the first contact for all the gasses and particles, creating a situation to gum up the throttle body. Second, don't just grab 300,000 miles out of the air. Comments like this with no research or even rational theoretical deductive reasoning are not helpful. Third, the vacuum comment makes not sense either. Unless you're venting into the atmosphere, if you're routing the gasses from the PCV back into the engine, the gasses and particles will have a chance to coke the valves. WHICH IS THE ENTIRE FLAW OF ALL DIRECT INJECTION ENGINES. BECAUSE DIRECT INJECTION DOES NOT PASS FUEL OVER THE VALVES, VALVES WILL COKE DUE TO PCV GASSES!! End Result: Either clean the original PCV holes often and perform an intake valve cleaning every 50k. OR Enlarge the PCV holes TO REDUCE BACK PRESSURE and add a catch can AND perform an intake valve cleaning every 50k. OR Keep everything original, add a catch can, and perform an intake valve cleaning every 50k. Bottom line: Add a catch can, do something to keep the PCV holes from clogging, perform an intake valve cleaning as part of general maintenance. Do these 3 things and you have a CHANCE of getting these engines to 300,000 miles.
Just stop with the 3k B.S. just use full synthetic oil and a premium filter! GM uses 5w30 oil in these so dealerships can offer those cheap oil changes! All modern engines need synthetic oil! GM owners are also known for being lazy on maintenance as well
@@krystal5887 I was saying they made it 5w30 so the dealerships could sell cheap oil! If you use synthetic it helps with the sludge issues these engines have!
@LF X you should be fine I don't know how many miles you drive a year but as long as every week or so you take a trip and let the engine get to full operating temp you can go way longer then 3or4 k! I'd change it every 6 months if you're really concerned!
@ LF X It barely uses oil because it’s a thicker viscosity when hot. You know what else it isn’t doing? Going through the dozens of tiny orifices that this engine has for the insane number of moving parts. Oh yeah.. 0 weight when cold with the proper oil filter with anti-back flow? Oil will be right there. You’ll get no startup rattles.. but as the oil heats up and thickens you’re going to get serious damage. Basically the same as you’re trying to avoid with insufficient oil that overheats and stretches the timing chains except in this case it’s flow instead of quantity causing the problem. Trust me. I ran a 2004 F-150 FX4 with the dreaded and absolutely awful 5.4 3V Triton. I got 240,000 miles out of it on the original cam phasers and the next owner drove it away with them working fine. The reason is because I checked and changed the oil religiously, I used the Motorcraft oil filter with the silicone anti back flow valve, and I used the manufacturer recommended 5W20 oil. Yeah, it used oil, and the valve cover gaskets sweated. But those are tiny issues compared to dynamic components being starved for lubrication because you put in maple syrup instead of oil.
This is modding the engine PCV to match the research and modifications done to later motor revisions, its retrofitting knowledge learnt... only can be a good thing.
Was there anything wrong with it in the first place.? These things are designed by engineers the hole sizes are scientifically calculated the fact that the later models holes are bigger is irrelevant. It is a different model. This guy should have used a piece of pipe to knock back in.
It is a known GM default in engineering. The crankcase builds up too much pressure, causing excessive oil consumption. Check out many of the videos and literature on GM 3.6L V6 engines from 2010-2013. I even believe GM put out a bulletin on this.
You must be fun at parties smart arse, if all the people relied on "was there anything wrong with it in the first place.?" we would've stuck on bathing in lakes every month so no need for this Cummie bs alright. This defect is since the 2005 in the LY7s & probably almost all GM H-FV6s, leaving it will have your engine start experiencing the following not very long passing the 25k miles! their occurring order is unmistakable to their owners & they know better. - overheated bank 2 - malfunctioning vvt solenoid - damaged cam phasers - uneven camware - gunked up intake-valves - increased oil-contamination - increased crank-case pressure - increased oil-consumption - enormous engine knocking - contaminated catalytic-convs. - all kinds of leaks - oil-pump starvation - low oil pressure - multiple burnet-out oil-level sensors & many many other sensors - never ending open-loop drives > good luck with the fuel consumptions - vehicle going to limp-mode during heavy traffic in 40c+ - insane engine-ware - never ending overheating drives - spun-bearings Here's a seized engine at 150k miles for ya, for the "MoDerN oIlS cAn Last For 15k MiLeS" crowd that's a 100, were these issues also designed by engineers? Oh yeah, I don't know if anyone noticed it before but my 1990 MB 220E with a 2.2 L four-banger have the same paper-type oil-filter on top of the engine & without any exaggeration the filter is double the size that of the GM 3.6 that's double the filtration capacity, sloppy engineering by GM?... Naaah that must be some kind of generosity from Mercedes-Benz
That pcv system was a great idea but it has many flaws .... 1: it only works during cruise speeds... its practically closed during idle and wot or heavy acceleration... 2: its pulling in nasty blowby from the crankcase back into the engine which crudes up the valves and piston tops which lowers octane levels and raises compression = more heat 3: the pcv will work better if that check valve was not in there... if it was a straight thru fitting, then the intake manifold vacuum could extract that blowby the entire time the engine was running .. the only downfall is that your combustion chamber will build up that crud that much faster ... on all 3 of my vehicles i route the pvc & valve cover into the exhaust ..
@@Wes_5kyph1 the hole point to to get rid of that nasty crank case fumes ... you dont want that going back into your engine to gunk up your valves and piston heads ...
That can always be remedied with a catch-can if it's that bad. The reason for pre-TB is to restore the engine vacuum the PCV normally steals when it's vented through intake manifold. Manifold vacuum port should be capped off for crankcase venting, otherwise it's a designed vacuum leak under the guise of "pollution control" ..more vacuum to engine = better combustion = less blowby
Dude my voice is horrible for radio. But it's what I got. If i had money, I'd have someone do professional voice over work. Hope you learned something in that minute!
There needs to be a little bit of resistance for the proper amount of pressure to build up. Maybe you drilled them out too big. Did you buy a new PCV to fix the rough running issue?
venting to atmosphere breaks the system (especially on cars with MAF sensors as they measure the air entering for the CCV as the dirty side extra air" going around the throttle plate as a bypass needs to be metered to control the AF ratio), a vacuum sucking out the fumes is better than it wearing out the oil and engine components, think of vacuum assisted crankcase ventilation as taking out the trash each week, venting to atmosphere is like filling a bin that is already overflowing.
@z Baba Booey x The world is not confined to the borders of the USA haha, PCV style systems were introduced in the 1950/60's because you had a massive issue to do with smog in the US, GM found 50% of the emissions from a car was due to the crankcase venting to the atmosphere, venting a car that has perfectly working PCV crankcase system will also render your car illegal for road use in pretty much every country that is developed, that includes india and china as both have a massive export for domestic cars and trucks so have to comply in order to sell outside their borders.
I've got 139,000 miles on this vehicle with nothing but oil changes. The only problem is these engines create a lot of crankcase pressure causing oil consumption.
Looks just like the one I pulled out and changed today. I cannot tell you what a difference it made. The engine runs super smooth again. I cleaned a lot of creamy sediment out of the air tunnel too. The old PVC was shot and had been shot for a long time.
Fantastic! Glad that it helped to change it!
how did you clean out the air tunnel??
Where can I buy one?
Happy Gilmore would be proud,"just tap it in" . Nice work.
Ha! Just a little taperoooo
Two tips for this:
1. To pull out the PCV I used a locking plier with cardboard around the metal. It didn't want to come straight out but by twisting it it just almost fell out. So if not budging straight up, clamp onto it and give it a slow twist.
2. When drilling, do so horizontally to minimise the potential for metal shavings to fall inside.
great advice! It never would have occurred to me to drill horizontally to minimize shavings getting inside the PVC
I brought my car to the dealership to have them look at it said it was fine it’s been working fine ever cents so maybe just like a glitch
Nice vid! However, you are actually supposed to apply a sealant before inserting the new PCV Orifice (or Valve), based on the Workshop Manual. Also, when you insert it, you need to twist it in order to eliminate any vertical leak paths in the sealant (still based on the manual instructions). By the way, the manual I have is for a 2008 - 2011 Cadillac CTS, which includes 3.6L V6 LLT engine (same as yours) and other different types of engines, but this procedure would also apply to yours. Some RTV sealant would work (Permatex Red High Temperature RTV for example).
I have the same engine on my 2008 Cadillac CTS and I am planning to do this soon in addition to doing some manual intake valves cleaning (which requires removal of intake manifold, etc.)...right before the next oil change.
Free advice, I would also encourage doing the following to improve your vehicle's performance. I have personally done these and can't be any happier. You can research about it if you don't trust me or are not confident enough:
- Use some Fuel System Cleaner in the gas tank (STP worked greatly for me)
- Replace the engine air filter (if needed and based on maintenance schedule)
- Clean the Throttle Body Assembly
- Clean the Mass Air Flow sensor
- Add some Lucas lube in the oil (make sure the oil level doesn't go over the limit on the dipstick)
- Replace the spark plugs if needed
There are many other things you could do to improve your car's performance. Cheers! 😉
Thanks for the added instructions! My manual doesn't have any RTV needed, but it's always good practice to put a little in these sorts of applications. It can't hurt in sealing 100% any vacuum leaks. I haven't done a smoke test on my car, but it runs really well with no codes so I'm pretty sure the PCV Valve mod is working well.
Just saw y’all know, this is for all 3.6l V6 from GM from 2003-2014. My 2005 caddy had positive crank pressure.
And for Australia there was the GMH (General Motors Holden) engine made in Australia from 2004 until October 2017 known as the Alloytec (3.6L), which started life in Australian cars with the VZ Commodore in 2004. Also has the PCV valve.
Yea this seems to be a problem for lots of brands of cars built between 2005 - 2020
I didn't think you was going to show how you took it off. Thanks
Thank you! Hope the video helps
Oh yeah very helpful. Appreciate you
Mines was super nasty. I'm going to do a engine cleaning because the old owner didn't change the oil.
@@lloyd899 That sucks about your engine man. A couple 3k oil changes with high quality oil should hopefully clean out most of that stuff. Good luck!
You can drill the holes with a bit of bearing grease to catch the swarf if you worry about metal swarf contamination,👍
awesome advice!
@@bigilworth thanks ,just dont melt the grease or its not so good lol
just done this At 94, 000 miles, I have a catchcan systen sense 30,000 the pvc was clean no clogs
To be fully honest, my PVC valve wasn't clogged or anything when I performed the modification; however I felt after watching many videos on the subject that it couldn't hurt to do the modification, especially since GM enlarged the PVC valves on all 2014/later Camaro models. If GM did it, there must be a good reason. And with a catch can, hopefully that will stop valve choking due to the GDI issue.
@@bigilworth does this help with oil consumption
Servicing a PCV valve is one of the simplest & important things you can do for your car.
Did mine 6 years ago and it's still working well!
Shoot a couple of squirts of throttle body cleaner down the pcv now and then, keeps it clean, we have a 2005 Caddy srx pcv looks brand new, also put some grease around base of pcv, easy in and out.
great advice!
So. It is the reason. VE had a problem with timing chain.
Possibly. If there is too much positive crankcase pressure it could create overheating problems, or blow-by. I think the timing chain issues are due to these cars consuming a lot of oil, the owner not routinely checking the oil, and therefore lack of oil stretches out the chains and causes failure.
thank you for shopping at Lowes ..
yea man!
I'm guessing this same technique would apply to an SV6 Commodore with the LY7 Alloytec.
Have a catch can that seems to be empty. Yet my air intake has a trickle of oil into it from the PCV intake
probably. Do those engines have small holes that need expanding due to potential sludge buildup? I'm only familiar with the LLT. although I do know that the Commodore is based on the LLT. So in theory, they probably do. You could always pull the PVC valve and check the size of the holes. If the 7/64th or 5/64th bits don't fit, then drill them out a little bit and put a catch can on the car.
@@bigilworth I've got a catch can already.
Not much ending up in the can.
Been getting more crap coming out of the inlet side instead.
I haven't yet, but I am planning on putting a second catch can on the "clean" side of the engine. It would make sense to do both since gasses vent out of driver-side valve cover into the air intake same as the passenger-side valve cover.
I hope it works out
@@bigilworth I've yet to install my clean side one.
Car got T boned few weeks ago driving home from work. It wasn't a hard hit fortunately.
Until I get it back from being repaired it's all going to have to wait
I hope your car gets fixed and it all works out! Keep the thread updated if you do the clean side catch can.
While I will be using your solid advice. I just don't see the point of buying a new one once it is drilled out the old one would be no different than a new one . Also may I suggest using a socket to refit the valve instead of hitting it directly. Cheers
Absolutely true! I bought a new one so that I would have the old one as a spare in case the job didn't work for some reason and I needed to switch back to the old one.
What is the tube coming from left aft side of the engine and connects to the intake tube near MAF sensor? I have cold air intake and oil near MAF sensor
The tube connecting the back of left side to air intake tube is another pressure release area. Unlike the PCV side, the left side is under less pressure, so less to zero oil should escape that side. I have oil coming from that side too and it pools near the throttle body. I've been wanting to put another catch can on that side of the engine, but I have not gotten around to it. You'll notice if you take the hose off that there is NO PCV valve regulating how much pressure can flow through the hole.
@@bigilworththank you sir. what about to disconnect it from the intake and left it freely, let the oil drop down under the car. Or it will not work because of some vacuum inside intake manifold?
@@bigilworth One more. I asked same question from the overseas forum and they said that our engine is going to die.. Oil comes into intake only when compression rings (piston rings) are worned out and all rings have to be replaced. I don't know how to proceed now
@@DIABLO_4_Tester_Sacramento Do not do that - its illegal for emissions and will cause engine damage, the Tube attached that you are talking about connects to the T-intersection between the Throttle Body and downsteam of the MAF sensor, so any air the PCV/CCV system uses is metered air by the MAF entering the crankcase via this tube, if you disconnect this "clean tube" inlet - you mistakenly will a) let non ECU metered air enter the crankcase and b) suck in dust and debris that will damage the internal bearings, oil pump, and cam phasers etc. The opposite rocker cover that this video is showing the mod for has engine vacuum (post throttle body) on it 95% of the time during idle and low revs, so this promotes it sucking new air from anywhere else - this is the purpose of the clean air tube - to let in filtered and ECU measured air on your "passenger side" rocker cover/ The PCV system really should be called the "Positive Displacement Ventilation System" - as the engine vacuum on the PCV port promotes positive displacement and suspends the acids and blow by in the air. If the Clean Air tube all the way through crankcase to the PCV orifice/valve is not gas tight - including a badly sealed Oil Cap and Dipstick if will stuff up the proper ventilation causing stagnate foul sludge to sit in the engine, and can even cause engine lean out as its a unmeasured vacuum leak around the throttle body essentially - This is the reason modern Oil Caps and Dipsticks have O-rings on them.
@@robywankenobi32 thank you for reply. I improved pcv valve. Per your opinion, does 6.2 engine more reliable than 3.6? I would change car because of 3.6 eats oil and transmission is very weak
Ok my freen very good 👍
Thanks!
Why not just buy the newer version of the PCV valve with the larger holes?
money
I wasn't aware that the 2014 fixed PCV valves fit in the 2010 model.
@@bigilworth If you look at the applications for the PCV valve (click the part number to see them) on Rockauto, it covers up to 2017 models, although not the Camaro. Was the fix not applied to other models with the 3.6L? Or maybe it was, and the PCV valve is a revised part?
@@brianleeper5737 To my knowledge the PCV valve only needs modification for 2010-2013 models. In 2014 GM "fixed" the issue by enlarging the holes. Before I did the mod, all the websites I consulted referenced just buying a new 2010 PCV valve and enlarging the holes. I could have probably bought a 2014 PCV Valve to see if it would work (since they are so cheap) but I never did.
@@bigilworth If this PCV valve weren't so difficult to remove you could just pop it out and hit it with some carb cleaner once in a while, like we did with the older cars. It's in the back valve cover on the 3.6L Impala (which I assume has the same issue as the Camaro with it plugging up over time)...which wouldn't be so bad if it weren't in there so tight.
My 2020 had a misfire the other day it didn’t stall out and it hasn’t happened again but I’m bringing it today to get look at by Chevy I hope it’s nothing serious
My car misfires all the time. I bought one of those code reading devices. My Camaro misfires because of a detected O2 sensor fault, but I've changed out the O2 sensors and I still get the fault. So my guess is a vacuum leak and I'm too cheap to buy a smoke machine or have a mechanic do it. I would suspect your misfire is due to a vacuum leak rather than the positive crankcase pressure which is what this video is about.
I found mine on Amazon and I could drill it out myself but I want it today and the dealership has one, do you think the parts from the dealerships were modified or just the ones installed in cars post 2012? Thanks in advance
Buy the one from the dealership and check the hole size with the proper drill-bits. If they are too small, then you know you'll need to drill them out and make larger.
Do you need to put any glue for securing the PCV valve in place?
No need to add glue. It's a snug, direct fit.
I'm SO glad I've watched vids about this issue!!
I've got a gorgeous Cranberry colored 2015 Impala LTZ, with the 3.6L VVT. 70,000mi on her now in Feb. 2022.
YES! Somebody brought up Seafoam!! For yeeeeaars now, I've been adding 1 Cup of SF to my Crankcase 1-2 weeks before an Oil-change. NEVER more than 5K mile intervals!!! Always Mobil-1.
Per the Owners-manual, the ONLY Gas it's ever seen is NO-ETHANOL Certified TOP-TIER CLASS Premium.....from Shell or Holiday Stations. Once a month, when the tanks are @ 1/4, I put 1/3 bottle of SF into the tanks.
ALL my engines (big & little) are running STRONG & clean. How many bottles of SF did I buy in 2021???
>>> TWELVE
Thank you, glad you liked the video. My Camaro has 145k and still going strong. I don't anticipate any issues with it at all. Have you installed a catch can on your Impala?
@@bigilworth -- Forgot about this video! No, I haven't installed one yet. She doesn't use any oil thankfully!
Can I install a 2014 Camaro valve on a 2008 Commodore, what do you think
Maybe - they are not that expensive ($10) so you could buy it and see if it fits. Otherwise, might be best to modify the existing one.
My catch can is always empty? Engine runs fine. Last 100mile trip and about 50 miles city driving gas millage was 25.4 mpg. What'd you think? p. s. Got 101,155 miles on engine. Always use Pennzoil platinum. Never removed intake though..
That's crazy that your catch can is empty. I literally just opened mine after 5000 miles and had 4 ounces of oil/water mixture. If you checked it after 100 - 200 miles, you probably didn't drive enough to generate any oil. Check after 1000 miles and I guarantee that you'll have 0.5 - 1 ounces of oil come out.
I've been using Royal Purple for the past 2 years, (22,000 miles) and I've noticed less oil consumption but no change in the amount of catch can oil coming out of the PCV.
Let me know after 1000 miles how much oil got caught by the catch can. I'm curious.
@@bigilworthI just changed my spark plugs. "probably could have cleaned them and reused them" I didn't have a bore camera, but my intakes were clean. Take my word for it. I used an inspection mirror and narrow beamed high intensity flash light. Nothing in catch can, but a light film. It hardly showed on my finger when I wiped the inside of the can. The only problem I had was removing the plugs. they were a little too tight, and I took my time. Used anti seize on new plugs Looking for another 100k. Hope I didn't jinx myself. P.S I don't sissy my car. I never was a putt, putt driver. I get on it whenever I can.
The best part about video is the claw hammer. Don’t home mechanic’s have the right hammer ??
Definitely didn't have the correct hammer around when making that video
Where do i buy the pcv that is already bigger for my 2012 impala
Not sure if you can buy one with bigger holes. But you can buy a new one and drill out the holes. If you have a vice and a drill, you can get the job done!
Am I supposed to be able to see through it?
yes. It's just an open chamber that creates a specific bar of pressure. If your PCV valve is all gunked up inside, you'll want to clean it out with brake cleaner.
I had to twist the pcv . vavlve with small chanel lock.
Same for me too. Getting the PCV valve out is probably the most annoying part.
Help a lot thanks
Glad it helped!!
After enlarging the holes on the PCV valve, do you still need to add a catch can?
It would be recommended to get a catch can. They will catch most of the oil blow-by and prevent oil from gumming up the air intake passages.
How did you get the hose to clamp off mine doesn’t budge
The hose that connects to the PCV valve has a little sliding lock mechanism that you slide to the left. Slide to the left and pull up. Should do the trick.
Aren't the new ones made correctly. Why not get a new one instead of drilling the old
I don't think the new ones have the correct size holes - but I made this video 5 years ago - GM might have fixed the replacement part.
Will the new updated valve from the 2014 camaro fit the 2010? 🤔
Not sure, but the PCV valve is so cheap, it wouldn't hurt to try a 2014. Get the correct drill bits and test the holes in the 2014 to make sure they're the correct size.
@@bigilworthwhere can I get the valve?
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6995428&cc=1444222&pt=5052&jsn=11@@edforthewin8574
@@bigilworth thank you sir!
Positive crankcase valve valve?
that's correct. Crankcase builds up pressure and the PCV valve has specific size holes to allow the pressure to escape - but you need a catch can because oil droplets are mixed with the gas.
Yes 😅 of coursd he's not gonna call it the PC valve as mechanics know it as PCV
Hows the car going now have you had any more problems with the wholes drilled out
For this project, I drilled out the holes, and then I added a catch can. I've put 15,000 on the car and I do not notice any performance difference.
Before I did this, I took the plenum off and did a manual cleaning of the valves (at 107,000) to get all the gunk off. I suppose the real test is to see how much gunk buildup there is since doing this project.
Is it worth it? I'm not sure. I can say with a certainty that my catch can captures about 4oz of oil/water mixture every 5-6k oil change I do. So I must be avoiding some damage to the intake by preventing all that oil from coating the valves.
I think at the very least, you should put a catch can on your car.
@@bigilworth yeah mate, I did the whole drill it out thing, with the same drill bits you showed, waiting on the catch can in the mail....
My pcv vavle was clogged an all the hose were clogged, it was in terrible state I just bought the ute.. so hopefully it's not too far gone!
God knows how long it's been like that for!
Probably never got change from day 1:(
@@markpalmer9360 Wow that's awful that everything was clogged up. Your PCV valve sounds much worse than mine.
In your situation, modifying the PCV valve should absolutely make a difference. And a catch can will truly help prevent coking of the intake valves.
If you're skilled enough, I would take the plenum off and see how bad the intake valves are coked with soot. A manual cleaning would go a long way.
Also, you might want to try some sea foam added to the oil to help loosen up any deposits that might be floating in the heads or the timing chains.
@@bigilworth yeah matey,
It's not good I was getting gunk on the oil lid, like yellow stuff it's not a blown head gasket thank God,
Its consendation from having pcv clogged I guess, yeah so, seafoam is the way to go mate ?
And with the covers do you need a certain torque on the bolts when you tighten them back up ?
@@bigilworth hey mate installed the catch can and it filled up in the matter of a drive around the block, I take it that's not normal,,,
Or maybe it's been clogged up for that long it's just come out,, I dont know what's your opion ?
wow...sexy voice.great video, ty very much.
Ha thanks! I might have had a cold when I audio recorded this video.....
How did you remove the PCV from the valve cover, I thought they weren’t removable and the entire valve cover had to be replaced.
I took a pair of pliers and pulled upwards on the PCV valve. It's a little hard to get out, but it does. No need to replace the valve cover. In my video I show how I get the PCV valve out at 3:06. Good luck! Let me know how it works out for you.
Alright thanks I’ll give it a try, I have a 2013 Cadillac XTS with the GM 3.6 VVT direct injection engine, and I couldn’t find anything online about how to remove it, some sites say to replace the entire cover.
@@Jbrown99th Oh yea I definitely don't believe you need to replace the entire cover. I have removed the valve about 4 times so far and no leaks or vacuum leaks.
Do you have the part number of the pcv?
CHEVROLET 2010 CAMARO 3.6L V6 Exhaust & Emission PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS V518 {#12574094, 12583384}
I bought it from Rock Auto.
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2010,camaro,3.6l+v6,1444222,exhaust+&+emission,pcv+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+valve,5052
part # chevy, v518
@@-MrRichBiker1967what about for the 2014 Camaro and no it’s not plastic, it’s the same as 2010 models but with one bigger hole instead of 2
You will speed up the carbon deposits in your engine if you do this . You need an oil catch can to resolve the issue .
I installed an oil catch can right after performing this job. Jd5179, you are correct that a catch can is extremely important after performing this service. I didn't address that in the video, but it is my suspicion that anyone willing to perform this service will have fully investigated the oil catch can need.
I fail to see the logic in any of these comments. Nor do I think it's truly possible to get 5-10% hp gain from any modification unless it is turbo or nitro.
I would highly discourage drilling out the PCV valve or plugging the manifold intake port.
First, routing from the PCV to the throttle body doesn't lessen the issue. It just makes the throttle body the first contact for all the gasses and particles, creating a situation to gum up the throttle body.
Second, don't just grab 300,000 miles out of the air. Comments like this with no research or even rational theoretical deductive reasoning are not helpful.
Third, the vacuum comment makes not sense either. Unless you're venting into the atmosphere, if you're routing the gasses from the PCV back into the engine, the gasses and particles will have a chance to coke the valves. WHICH IS THE ENTIRE FLAW OF ALL DIRECT INJECTION ENGINES. BECAUSE DIRECT INJECTION DOES NOT PASS FUEL OVER THE VALVES, VALVES WILL COKE DUE TO PCV GASSES!!
End Result:
Either clean the original PCV holes often and perform an intake valve cleaning every 50k.
OR Enlarge the PCV holes TO REDUCE BACK PRESSURE and add a catch can AND perform an intake valve cleaning every 50k.
OR Keep everything original, add a catch can, and perform an intake valve cleaning every 50k.
Bottom line: Add a catch can, do something to keep the PCV holes from clogging, perform an intake valve cleaning as part of general maintenance. Do these 3 things and you have a CHANCE of getting these engines to 300,000 miles.
@@Wes_5kyph1 0
@LF X so no more oil consumption ?
Change your oil every 3000 miles instead.
Just stop with the 3k B.S. just use full synthetic oil and a premium filter! GM uses 5w30 oil in these so dealerships can offer those cheap oil changes! All modern engines need synthetic oil! GM owners are also known for being lazy on maintenance as well
@@krystal5887 I was saying they made it 5w30 so the dealerships could sell cheap oil! If you use synthetic it helps with the sludge issues these engines have!
@LF X you should be fine I don't know how many miles you drive a year but as long as every week or so you take a trip and let the engine get to full operating temp you can go way longer then 3or4 k! I'd change it every 6 months if you're really concerned!
@ LF X
It barely uses oil because it’s a thicker viscosity when hot.
You know what else it isn’t doing? Going through the dozens of tiny orifices that this engine has for the insane number of moving parts.
Oh yeah.. 0 weight when cold with the proper oil filter with anti-back flow? Oil will be right there. You’ll get no startup rattles.. but as the oil heats up and thickens you’re going to get serious damage. Basically the same as you’re trying to avoid with insufficient oil that overheats and stretches the timing chains except in this case it’s flow instead of quantity causing the problem.
Trust me. I ran a 2004 F-150 FX4 with the dreaded and absolutely awful 5.4 3V Triton. I got 240,000 miles out of it on the original cam phasers and the next owner drove it away with them working fine.
The reason is because I checked and changed the oil religiously, I used the Motorcraft oil filter with the silicone anti back flow valve, and I used the manufacturer recommended 5W20 oil.
Yeah, it used oil, and the valve cover gaskets sweated. But those are tiny issues compared to dynamic components being starved for lubrication because you put in maple syrup instead of oil.
This is modding the engine PCV to match the research and modifications done to later motor revisions, its retrofitting knowledge learnt... only can be a good thing.
I thought it was 7/64 drill bit for all 3 holes ??
I read in online forum
Just for the two small holes. The exit hole needs to be bigger. At least that's what I read on numerous forums.
Was there anything wrong with it in the first place.? These things are designed by engineers the hole sizes are scientifically calculated the fact that the later models holes are bigger is irrelevant. It is a different model. This guy should have used a piece of pipe to knock back in.
It is a known GM default in engineering. The crankcase builds up too much pressure, causing excessive oil consumption. Check out many of the videos and literature on GM 3.6L V6 engines from 2010-2013. I even believe GM put out a bulletin on this.
You must be fun at parties smart arse, if all the people relied on "was there anything wrong with it in the first place.?" we would've stuck on bathing in lakes every month so no need for this Cummie bs alright.
This defect is since the 2005 in the LY7s & probably almost all GM H-FV6s, leaving it will have your engine start experiencing the following not very long passing the 25k miles! their occurring order is unmistakable to their owners & they know better.
- overheated bank 2
- malfunctioning vvt solenoid
- damaged cam phasers
- uneven camware
- gunked up intake-valves
- increased oil-contamination
- increased crank-case pressure
- increased oil-consumption
- enormous engine knocking
- contaminated catalytic-convs.
- all kinds of leaks
- oil-pump starvation
- low oil pressure
- multiple burnet-out oil-level sensors & many many other sensors
- never ending open-loop drives > good luck with the fuel consumptions
- vehicle going to limp-mode during heavy traffic in 40c+
- insane engine-ware
- never ending overheating drives
- spun-bearings
Here's a seized engine at 150k miles for ya, for the "MoDerN oIlS cAn Last For 15k MiLeS" crowd that's a 100, were these issues also designed by engineers?
Oh yeah, I don't know if anyone noticed it before but my 1990 MB 220E with a 2.2 L four-banger have the same paper-type oil-filter on top of the engine & without any exaggeration the filter is double the size that of the GM 3.6 that's double the filtration capacity, sloppy engineering by GM?... Naaah that must be some kind of generosity from Mercedes-Benz
That pcv system was a great idea but it has many flaws ....
1: it only works during cruise speeds... its practically closed during idle and wot or heavy acceleration...
2: its pulling in nasty blowby from the crankcase back into the engine which crudes up the valves and piston tops which lowers octane levels and raises compression = more heat
3: the pcv will work better if that check valve was not in there... if it was a straight thru fitting, then the intake manifold vacuum could extract that blowby the entire time the engine was running .. the only downfall is that your combustion chamber will build up that crud that much faster ...
on all 3 of my vehicles i route the pvc & valve cover into the exhaust ..
How did u do that( route the pvc & valve cover into the exhaust )
These ones are straight thru, there is no check valve inside, holes are too small tho and do need to be drilled out or it clogs up easily...
Could also vent to pre-throttle-body intake
@@Wes_5kyph1 the hole point to to get rid of that nasty crank case fumes ... you dont want that going back into your engine to gunk up your valves and piston heads ...
That can always be remedied with a catch-can if it's that bad. The reason for pre-TB is to restore the engine vacuum the PCV normally steals when it's vented through intake manifold. Manifold vacuum port should be capped off for crankcase venting, otherwise it's a designed vacuum leak under the guise of "pollution control" ..more vacuum to engine = better combustion = less blowby
Great video but I couldn’t watch past a minute the voice kinda creeps me out
Dude my voice is horrible for radio. But it's what I got. If i had money, I'd have someone do professional voice over work. Hope you learned something in that minute!
love his voice...could picture that ass in tight boxer breifs.ohhhhh
I just drilled the holes out as large as I could
How did it run after you did it ?? I drilled mine out as much as I could and its running really rough
@@craigshuttleworth9422 runs perfectly fine
@@craigshuttleworth9422 make sure you put all your vacuum lines back on
There needs to be a little bit of resistance for the proper amount of pressure to build up. Maybe you drilled them out too big. Did you buy a new PCV to fix the rough running issue?
lmao just vent to atmosphere
You can be a douche bag and vent to atmosphere, or you can help lower emissions.
Just scrap you car and you'll be looking at no emissions.
venting to atmosphere breaks the system (especially on cars with MAF sensors as they measure the air entering for the CCV as the dirty side
extra air" going around the throttle plate as a bypass needs to be metered to control the AF ratio), a vacuum sucking out the fumes is better than it wearing out the oil and engine components, think of vacuum assisted crankcase ventilation as taking out the trash each week, venting to atmosphere is like filling a bin that is already overflowing.
@z Baba Booey x The world is not confined to the borders of the USA haha, PCV style systems were introduced in the 1950/60's because you had a massive issue to do with smog in the US, GM found 50% of the emissions from a car was due to the crankcase venting to the atmosphere, venting a car that has perfectly working PCV crankcase system will also render your car illegal for road use in pretty much every country that is developed, that includes india and china as both have a massive export for domestic cars and trucks so have to comply in order to sell outside their borders.
@xl_Graveyard _lx by "atmosphere" you are venting it your face, especially with defrost or outside air vent. In traffic it Probly wreaks.
Garbage disposal GMC and Chrysler Dodge And Ford
I've got 139,000 miles on this vehicle with nothing but oil changes. The only problem is these engines create a lot of crankcase pressure causing oil consumption.
Or... just buy a new valve for $10?
Its not a valve, its a controlled orifice that isn't big enough