How to keep your GM 3.0 or 3.6 V6 running forever - **High Feature V6 LY7 LLT LFX LGX LGZ**
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2020
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As these GM High Feature V6 engines age, many have been subject to timing change stretch issues. To prevent this from happening altogether, you need to diligently keep up on the maintenance on these engines. Here are some tips and tricks to keep your engine happy and healthy well past 200k miles.
The early High Feature V6's had a very restrictive PCV valve (more like an orifice) that caused the rear valve cover and valvetrain underneath to build up immensely with sludge. Around 2014-ish, the factory began enlarging the holes in the PCV valves of the 3.6's. So by drilling out the holes of the PCV to the larger sizes the factory has since done, you reduce the restriction, thus the chance of sludge buildup on the top side of the engine.
The owner's manual specifies synthetic oil be used in this engine (the newer 3.6's require DEXOS approved oil.) The reason for using a high quality synthetic and changing it often is twofold. 1. The timing chain tensioners on this engine are notoriously fickle. If you continue to neglect changing your oil, the oil passages in said tensioners clog up and eventually cause the timing chains to stretch and jump timing. Using inferior dino oil has the same effect. 2. The very fact that it's a Direct Injected engine causes the natural blow-by of crankcase vapors to collect on the intake valves and turn to hard carbon deposits. Since the fuel injector now sprays fuel directly into the cylinder rather than at the back side of the intake valve, there is no "washing" effect to clean off said deposits. Using a high-quality DEXOS synthetic reduces blow-by, thus carbon buildup. This leads to why I recommend installing a catch can.
Bottom line, these engines aren't like the older GM pushrod designs, where you could neglect them for 20, 30k without consequence. These require much more attention and more rigorous maintenance to keep them happy.
How do I know if my car has a High Feature engine? From Wikipedia:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_High...
TH-camr "WatchJRGo" did a series on a 2011 Camaro with a sludged-up 3.6 LLT in which he had a service performed called "BG Products Dynamic Engine Cleaner." What they do is run chemicals through the fuel system, induction system, and engine oil to clean out the sludge inside the engine, the fuel injectors, and the carboned-up intake valves:
• FIXING The UNFIXABLE E...
• ENGINE TIME MACHINE: C...
• My CHEAP Camaro ENGINE...
• The 3 DAY Timing Chain...
Catch Can:
www.amazon.com/Sporacingrts-C...
Catch Can install video:
• 2012-2016 Impala/Limit...
Clean side separator install video:
• GM 3.6 Liter V6 High-F...
Link to the PCV mod:
• 3.6L LLT PCV Valve Bre...
BG EPR Engine Flush video:
• BG "Engine Performance...
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Couple tips I almost NEVER see people mention!!
# 1) Use of Top-Tier Fuel.
* See your Owner's-Manual! GM "Recommends use of Top-Tier Fuels...".
* This is an actual class of Gasoline. Moderately higher levels of Detergents to help keep Valves/etc. cleaner.
* I've got a beautiful "Cranberry" colored 2015 LTZ, with the Factory 20" Rims.
* Now at 70,000 miles, She runs STRONG! I got it in 2017 as a CPO with 24,000 mi.
* Never more than 5,000 miles on an oil-change. ALWAYS Full-Synthetic since I've had it.
* The ONLY Fuel it's seen is Certified T-T PREMIUM from Shell or Holiday Stations.
#2) SEAFOAM......USE IT!!
* Once a month, when our gas tanks are ~ @ 1/4, I pour a 1/3 bottle in the Tank.
* My small-engine stuff has a STEADY diet of a little SF added to the same gas that I use for the Impala.
* Also....a few days (a week usually...) before an Oil-Change, I put a Cup of SF into the Engine-Oil.
* Even a MONTH after an O/C, I'll check the Oil, & it still looks pretty clean!
* Overall, it uses VERY little oil.
* An aside- My 25 yr-old Snowblower made it TWENTY-TWO years with the Original Carb, because of the above Fuel & Oil practices.!!
* The only reason I had to get a new Carb was because the Throttle-Shaft had worn the Carb body slightly, so extra air was coming in that was causing surging. There's no fix for THAT. Snowblowers vibrate quite a bit, so that wear area eventually affects the airflow.
* The inside of the Carb was SPOTLESS! >>> I think we all know WHY now!
I should've mentioned that about the gas. I only put 91 Octane non-oxygenated Top Tier gas from Kwik Trip in my car. I NEVER put any E-10 in it, and I especially don't put E-85 in it!! I won't get into how much of a sham Ethanol is, but what it does to fuel systems is inexcusable!! Good advice about the Seafoam, it's always a good idea to run some through the engine on a regular interval (through the tank, the crankcase, and the brake booster hose.)
@@CertifiedShadetree -
Good Man CS! I believe this Impala V6 has been labeled "Flex-Fuel" for a few years now. I know that badge is on mine.
* As I mentioned....it hasn't seen anything but NO-ETHANOL T-T Premium since July 2017.
* I mentioned my old Snowblower. Had to use it a couple times in the last few days. New T-T Premium with a bit of Seafoam, and VROOOOMM..... blowing snow!
* I checked how many bottles of SF I bought this year.....TWELVE! 🤓
@@Wyn61 I had a hand-me-down snowblower when I bought my first house. After 1 winter, I learned the hard way what ethanol does to a small engine's carburetor!! Now I only put "True Fuel" in my snowblower. It's $20 a gallon at Home Depot, but it's shelf stable and if I forget to empty the fuel bowl at the end of winter, the carb will still be pristine when I go to start it the fall!!
@@CertifiedShadetree where is the bank 2 knock sensor on this car? The one closest to the bumper
Top tier fuel and other detergent mumbo-jumbo is not doing any good for direct injection engines. Fuel does not spray on the back of the valves. High-octane, no-ethanol gas is also a useless, expensive voodoo myth. The compression ratio of the LLT engine is 11.3:1 - no need for high octane. My CTS owner manual does not mention top-tier fuel. It DOES say use only synthetic oil, also marked on pool-filler cap. I have almost 100K miles on my CTS with the LLT engine and it runs fine. I get the oil changed every 8K miles +/-.
I can't believe that the 3.6L LFX is still getting dissed for common issues that ANY direct injected 4 cam engine would experience if NOT properly maintained. I have a friend with 215k on the clock in his 2012 Impala V6, runs perfectly fine...no issues at all. I purchased my 2013 GMC Terrain V6 3 years ago with no regrets whatsoever. Change the oil every 3k miles with full synthetic Dexos and a "real" oil filter and this motor will continue to run strong. I've had no oil consumption or timing chain issues, no leaks, and I'm not even running an oil catch can. Now, the 2.4L 4cyl. is a totally different story!.
That’s right. Maintain the 3.6 perfectly and it’ll last to 250k miles easily. But they are very picky about their oil and do not tolerate neglect.
I have a 3.5 and a 3.6 impala from the 2006-2016 model years both in matching silver. The 3.5 is much more reliable, its an absolute workhorse. Mine has 302k miles on it, still running. The 3.6 is almost an entirely different experience. Its less reliable, but a little quicker and a LOT more responsive. When its working properly its a very refined experience. Ive outran police cars in it with ease. They are deceptively quick, and eat corners wonderfully. The 3.6 is sitting at 247k miles with regular high speed cruises. If you’re going to drive a 3.6 like a maniac, check and change your fluids way before they are scheduled. Fresh fluids is crucial, if you neglect that they start making funny noises and throwing weird issues at you. Inspect for oil leaks regularly. The rest is pretty much like checking a track car, make sure brake system is okay, check all the rubber bushings in your suspension. Its a heavy car and its very stressful on those components particularly.
@@da_poopoo_dealer3152 So you actually admit you outran the police? What'd you do?
@@thedirtybubble9613 i didnt do anything other than speed lol theres only 3.5 miles between the two exits on the freeway that runs through my town, by the time they pull out of the median and get up to speed, im at the next exit getting off and hitting corners
Almost 300K miles on my 2012 Impala. I bought it when it was a year old rental car. I've been running nothing but Valvoline full synthetic every 3K miles. I never modded the pcv system or installed a catch can. It is whisper quiet. You have to listen hard to hear it idle. It has all the power it had when I first bought it. My son is driving it now and it may do another 100K! An incredible engine!
That's damn impressive!!
225,000 on my 2014 impala 3.6. I change oil and filter every 4,000 miles. I use a blend oil, castrol mostly. Best thing GM has made in years.
That's what I'm talking about!!
That makes me so happy man I’ve got 108k on my 2014 ltz and it’s been such a damn good car hoping it last till 300k
I have a 2020 Blazer with same engine (I believe). Have you had to clean the valves - because it’s a Direct Injection???
@@arcad1an292 No. Just keep the oil clean and replace plugs every 50,000-75000 miles.
@@jamesdunning8650
That’s impressive. Because from what I know the intakes will absolutely get clogged up. Thanks for the feedback.
Got a 2010 ve LLT just modded the pcv, fitted an oil catch can and installed a new evap solenoid. Easy to do and peace of mind
We have a 2005 Caddy, 255.000 miles on it, twice a month I shoot a couple of squirts of throttle body cleaner down the pcv, also don't let the oil get below half a quart, and I change it every 2.500 miles, oil is cheap.
As an Aussie it's funny seeing these Engines in transverse mount... They're known here as the "Alloytec" LY7.. I've got one in my 2006 Holden VZ Calais
Sadly, pretty much everything is FWD in America ☹️.
I love they put this motor for rear drive Holden's. Makes oil changes so easy. With the drain plug in the forward position and oil filter on top.
Makes my VE SSV oil changes seem like a arduous chore.
Easier to get to that damn thermostat tho…
@@brettcaddy7395 That is so true.
Thanks for the advice, getting a 2013 LTZ in a few days, already ordered a catch can for it, going to do this right away. 👍
Congrats on the purchase!! Good luck with the install! 🍻
Thanks👍
Yes, you can drill out the PVC valve to decrease the velocity and that will often reduce oil loss. GM also came out with a new valve cover gasket that restricts the air/oil flow to the PCV valve. The early engines did suck oil thru the PCV and low oil will damage timing chains, both thru heat and also the tensioners are hydraulic pistons using engine oil pressure. Oil gets low, the pressure drops, the timing chain is cooled by oil so they get hot, and the tensioners start to collapse so the chains get loose. Absolutely, keep your oil full and changed. OFTEN! 3K at a minimum..
Preach it!!
my mom has a 16’ cadillac srx with one. this video has helped a ton
🍻
In australia the last two revisions of the commodore had the 3.6 and the ecotec v6 before it, the ly7 is perfect for bunrouts
I have a 3.6 in my Cadillac CTS. I absolutely love it!! I keep the oil changed in it quite regularly with nothing but full synthetic, of course. It’s never given me a liquor trouble! Doesn’t usually coil nothing. Love this engine!
Right on!
How is that caddy? Lol I've always looked at those and laughed my impala loves racing for a cheaper price. But eventually I'll have those transmission issues lol 😂 it also doesn't help I don't wanna pay that much for a cadillac
I do agree 100% with you... very good advice... I have a llt version of the contraption, I do change the oil every 3 000 miles, the thing has 200 000 miles so I did replace the timing chains / sprockets as prevention . And yes check your oil often as it does use some a little when they age. Thanks for posting....
Did you go the timing chains yourself? If so, how did that go?
@@CertifiedShadetree yes i did it is was a long job that i ve done twice as one one of the tensioners was not not set right in the box... so I had a nice chain rattle on startup
thanks to Cloyes... so reset the tensioners before assembling.
Oh wow, that's shitty to have to go through all of that work only to find one of the tensioners was garbage!
I almost have 250k miles on my 2014 Impala, which was a police interceptor at one point. I change the oil at every 5k miles, and the trans fluid at every 30k miles. Damn thing is quiet as a mouse, and it still shifts smoothly. I think it can go another 200k+ miles easily. If you take care of them, they'll take care of you.
Listen to this man, people!!!
Another thing about these engines is the PCV valve. GM didn't make the holes big enough so it creates positive crank pressure. If you're getting oil in your plug wells, that's what it is. You can drill it out to GM's "fix" spec. 5/64 on one side, 7/64 on the other. Smaller one for the small holes big one for the big hole, you can figure it out. Not difficult. I would get a valve cover gasket set and do it all after that. No more oil in the plug wells because the pressure problem is fixed. Make sure you clean the PCV very well before reinstalling. Blow it out with air to get all the metal shavings out and soak it in brake cleaner or something of that nature. Blowing out again right after that. 3.6 Cadillac CTS 2011.
I mentioned this in the video (and the description!)😂😂
I’m so glad you mentioned the timing chain thing, huge issue for my car it seems.
Indeed it is!
I have a 2012 Impala LT 3.6 with 208k miles. I recommend doing a BG Engine Performance Restoration (EPR) flush every 15k miles. It helps with carbon build up that makes the piston rings stick, which can lead to burning oil. Also doing and intake valve cleaning. I usually have my mechanic do a BG Air Induction Service or when I do it myself, I use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner from O'Reilly. Very simple to do. When my engine feels sluggish, I do these services and it restores performance. Also, great tip on resetting a trip odometer. I usually set my Trip B and make sure I don't go over 5k miles between oil changes.
How much does your mechanic charge for each BG service? I posted links to WatchJRGo in another video where he had the service done to an 11 Camaro LLT. Think he said he spent $350 all said and done. I have used the CRC GDI spray before, but haven't used it since installing the catch can.
My first experience with a 3.6 (being the LFX) was in a 2012-2013 Chevy Impala I used for a week in preparation and taking my driving test many years ago. Acceleration felt effortless but you have to rev the piss out of it to hit the 300 hp. Most of them may be rental cars but that thing moved.
It's a bit jarring when you first drive an LFX Impala if you're used to driving an Impala with the pushrod motor. You fully expect the power to come on in the low end of the rev range, and when it doesn't you mash the throttle and BAM, those 303 ponies hit you upside the head!!
The LF3 version of the 3.6 is a fun engine
WIsh that was an option on the Impala!! I bet the FWD transaxle couldn't handle the extra torque, though..
You have a great channel.... Subbed.
THANK YOU!! 🙏 I'm a big fan of your channel, as well!!
85,500 on my 2012 Chevy impala 3.6LT car still runs great with horse power still kicking in. Thanks for the video will start using the oil filter and other tips ASAP.
She's barely broken in!! 😁 Hope she gives you many more years of trouble free life!! 👍
LeaderOfWagons thanks my friend I’m really appreciate it
No problem, and good luck!! 🍻
I hope you don't mind I shared your link to a form that I belong to on Facebook called Midwest Impalas most of the guys their own the 06 through 13 model and it's so hard to find good TH-cam videos on how to fix things so I thought they might like to view your videos. If you don't want me to share that let me know and I'll pull it down
I don't mind at all!! I'm not on FB, but the whole reason I post videos is to help out where I can!
All the sheriffs and constables still drive 2012-16 Impalas man I love them cars
I wish I could still buy one new!!
I have a Pontiac G8 with the 3.6 everyone told me to stay away (its my daily commuter) and that its gonna blow up and the chains will fail. I bought the car with 200k miles and im only a few hundred miles away from 240k and this motor has been nothing but good to me. Still has plenty of power, nothing catastrophic has happened and i change the oil every 3-5k miles with Mobil 1 Synthetic dexos oil. I have my fun with the car but i never beat on her too hard. Dont be scared of GMs 3.6 its a great motor just gotta take care of it!
Proof positive that if you meticulously maintain a 3.6 it'll give you years of trouble-free service!
I'm running shell rotella gas oil 0w20 in my 2016 Silverado. So far so good.
🍻
Very nice video 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you! 🍻
140K on my '12 Enclave; runs so smooth at idle, I can't even tell its on. I agree with you but I'd add once they get to 100K miles or more I top them off halfway between the oil change intervals. I don't bother with high mileage oils either; just get the full synth 5W-30 on sale (honestly for me the brand does not matter, I just get the cheapest). Too low oil will stretch that timing chain faster than running old oil in there for a few thousand miles. So far, so good.
I wouldn't recommend the high mileage oil either. Mine has 175k and even with the catch can installed, I don't need to top it off at all between OCI's. I absolutely attribute that to the Valvoline Modern Engine oil. Keeping the intake tract clean is just as important as changing the oil in these engines!!
@Thunderbolt The 3500 is a solid engine. It's the most refined of the old pushrod GM 60* V6's. Although unremarkable, it's extremely reliable, and not prone to the issues that plagued the earlier 3400's & 3100's.
People say that this engine is too high tech to be reliable like the old 3.5 or 3.8's. I say people are too lazy or stupid to realize that the vvt system requires clean and full oil level in order to function properly. The old engines couldn't pass today's emission standards and fuel economy standards. That 300HP comes with some responsibility on the owner's part.
You speak 100% truth!!
My holden Commodore omega alloytec is LE0, 180kw motor. Strange seeing you guys having the engine a different position. Mines at 185,000km+, going strong. Change oil every 5000km. Only issues I had were coolant leaks, thermostat housing and water pump. Besides that, solid.
Yep, aside from a couple of Cadillacs and the Camaro, everything in the States these engines come in is FWD.
I love videos from guys who draw blanks!
🤣🤣🤣
I just hit 211k on my 2012 Impala with the 3.6 v6 no issues at all besides some suspension problems I used it for a lot of city driving a lot of idling hours and she still running strong. The main thing is to change the oil every 3-5k miles and using seafoam every oil change. I highly recommend Pennzoil Full Synthetic High Mileage and AC Delco Filters.
I avoid Pennzoil like the plague with this engine. Didn't matter if I was running Ultra Platinum or regular Platinum, the oil consumption with Pennzoil was unbearable!! Consuming 1 quart every 3k is unacceptable to me, especially when running Valvoline Modern Engine it only consumes 1/4 quart on a 4k OCI.
@@CertifiedShadetree I been using Pennzoil ultra platinum ever since I got the car and everytime I change the oil I check the level and it's always at the full mark so I don't think mine burn oil at all. And the oil it's always golden so I know the inside of the engine is squeaky clean.
@@YanilMiami305 Interesting.🤔 I've ran Ultra Platinum in 3 separate 3.6's and all had the same result. I'll absolutely run it in anything else, it's been my go-to oil for years. I just haven't had any luck with it in my 3.6's..
@@CertifiedShadetree yeah I been running pennzoil on all my vehicles and never had the burning oil issue. This is the first time I hear that about pennzoil. I even ran it on my old GMC Yukon with the 6.2 v8 and AFM and never burnt oil and those v8s with AFM are notorious for burning oil
@@YanilMiami305 I have a malibu 3.6l 2009 215.000kms i use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, have no leaks and dosen't burn oil, i wonder if i should change to Pennzoil Full Synthetic High Mileage
The 3.6 from gm is stupid powerful I've driven several impalas with this engine and they have no problem getting out of their own way
And with a couple mods, they'll run 13's in the quarter!
@@CertifiedShadetree it's quite insane my mother has a 2020 acadia 3.6 and that think will hit 100 flat in no time when entering the freeway it can achieve 90 before hitting the 4 lanes
It's powerful but not reliable ,I prefer GM 3800 engine
@@theshield1613 yeah that 3800 was indestructible but it was underpowered. Really slow engine the 3.6 can be reliable if you take care of it. I have an 12 impala with 211k
@@CertifiedShadetree what mods? There's really no aftermarket parts for the 3.6 unless it's the camaro 3.6
I drive a 2008 Holden commodore with the famed LY7 engine and with nearly 300k km on it, I still haven't done chains yet and I've owned mine since 137k. Servicing is key to these engines and keeps them going. Mind you i give my car hell and she still goes.
Congrats!🍻 We need to keep repeating it to anyone within the sound of our voices to service the shit out of these engines!!
Lmao 300k?? I bought a 2006 Holden VZ Calais at the end of last year with the same LY7 and it only had 150,000 KM on it...don't know how, must've been some old timer owning it along the way or it's been garaged for sometime... The 2004 VZ SV6 I ditched prior had about 280,000KM.. had oil leaks, and I suspect a crank angle sensor issue, cause it stalled twice and the steering wheel would lock up!! Very scary situation while driving!!
.these engines can be F'in headaches!!! Not to mention a lot of them here in Oz have been thrashed.
the last part of your paragraph is the reason your car has lasted as long as it has ! being a holden mechanic i have noticed a trend where the ones with low KM and are not driven very far over the 9 month intervals are the ones with Timing case leak issues. The ones that are driven more then 15000km WITHIN the 9 month periods usually have little to NO issues with them . i worked on a MY2015 Calais V6 with 240k km which is HUGE KM for such a short time and it Had ZERO issues , vehicle looked Brand new. not a single leak anywhere and suspension components were perfect.
general rule of thumb for these engines - Drive it long , Drive it hard.
Glad to hear you stopped using Pennzoil. My experience is oil ports clogging. I change my oil at 2000 miles, but I have a 5.3 l vortec.
Oh wow, I never had issues using it in my 04 Impala's 3400. Won't ever use it in a DI engine, that's for damn sure!!
I have an 09 Saturn Aura with this exact same engine that is coming up on 270K miles and it's still running like it did 200,000 miles ago. For the first 100K miles of it's life (I didn't intend on keeping the car long) I changed my oil every 5K miles but used a good conventional oil. Once I decided to keep it, I switched to synthetic but still continued changing it every 5K miles. I'm sure the synthetic oil could have lasted longer but I wasn't concerned with it breaking down so much as getting dirty or running low as I was burning a quart or so between changes. These engines can burn oil due to the design of the PVC system so it's important to check your oil level every 3000 miles and top it off if necessary. I have zero reason to believe that this engine will not go well over 300K miles without a major issue
That's an impressive number, no matter the engine, but all the more impressive considering most people don't get to 200k with a 3.6. The one good thing about the LY7 is it doesn't have direct injection, so when the PCV system dumps oil into the intake, the port injectors wash off the backs of the intake valves. The next version, the LLT, is the one that is notorious for carbon buildup and timing chain stretch.
After watching the video and reading the comments (such as yours) I’m a little gun shy now about getting one. I thought my experience with this engine was common, looks like I might have just been lucky.
This is a rarity I had 2007 burnt oil smoked and oil in the spark plugs died at 110k Miles what a pos
@@CertifiedShadetree Is 200K viable with the change though?
@@mrghost12121 The odds are greater with each engine revision. LFX, LFY, LGX, or LGZ I'd say it's a certainty.
Awesome video, I have a 2015 Impala with the 3.6 and I love the engine, but I am considering selling it. Only has 44k on it. The engine is strong, but with gas prices I am going to get a Sonic or a older civic. I just don't trust these GM engines either. It's fun and smooth but I'll go with a reliable little tank type car in these times. I never knew of these problems with this engine, what a shame. You know they can build a flawless car, but margins are better when you skimp and put profit ahead of quality.
That's a shame, but I get it. If these 3.6's were built like the old 3800's I bet GM wouldn't have cancelled all but a couple of their sedan offerings!!
But just to offer a bit of solace, my '12 Impala with the 3.6 now has 180k on it. Still runs like a swiss watch, too (I'm knocking furiously on wood as I say that)!!
@@CertifiedShadetree That's awesome to hear someone has had good luck with the 3.6. And I 100% agree about the 3.8 I had a LeSabre 01 with that engine.....what a great engine, a tank for sure. Now the tranny in that Buick is another story. I had to rebuild it at 115k. Kept it until 175k and that engine did not burn oil, started every single time. And 200 horses was plenty even in that big boat.
Yeah those 4T65-E's were pretty hit and miss, especially the pre-03's without the hardened 4th gear spline. I lucked out on an 04 Impala I used to own, never had any issues with the shift solenoids or the 4th gear spline. Made it to 220k before I sold it. The 3400 was a different story!! 🤣
Speaking of tips, my late husband worked in a circumcision ward. He said he always enjoyed the tips ! ! ! !
He wasn't a Rabbi was he? 🤣
THX for the video. I drive a '19 Camaro with the LGX w/ 23K on the clock. Bought used. Did the first oil change after 2800 miles mainly because I didnt know what type of oil was in it. It was fresh when I bought it. Put Dexos approved Mobil 1 full synthetic in the thing. IT HATES IT. Was a very quick car. Now... sluggish. I've always ran Mobil 1 in my cars. Can't wait to get it out of this one. Never known oil to have that kind of affect.
Did you use the recommended viscosity? The only time I can recall an instance like that happening to me was when I put Mobil 1 10w30 in a 3100 V6 in the summer instead of the recommended 5w30. Car ran like complete ASS with the 10w30. Ran completely fine after I drained out the 10w30 and put Mobil 1 5w30 back in.
@@CertifiedShadetree thx for your reply. It calls for 5w-30. That's what it got. When I say it hates it, it still runs fine but it definitely had a negative impact on performance. Bought it from Carvana. No idea what they had in it. Had a Motorcraft filter on it!
My only other thought would be to check the API standard the car requires, and if the oil matches or exceeds it. One would think Mobil 1 would be up to the current standard, but you never know anymore!! Also the bobistheoilguy.com forums would be a good place to seek answers.
@@CertifiedShadetree bro I feel like an idiot. It wasnt the oil. I'm not sure why I was so convinced it was. Anyway, I had taken it out of sport mode! Didnt realize until a few hours ago. Huge difference. THX for your help.
@@chadpugh1490 Glad to hear it wasn't an oil issue!! 😌
Got an 09 Chevy Malibu LT with a 3.6 also going 172 miles strong
That's pretty damn good for an earlier 3.6!!
@@CertifiedShadetree yessirrr
Hey mate good video.
🍻
Great advice here! Just bought a 2017 Holden Commodore (Aussie car) with the 3.0L V6 & 85K km [55K miles] on it and will be changing my oil every 5000km [3K miles], just like I do with all my other vehicles. I think a major problem was GM's specified service interval for oil changes which is just way too long at 15K km [9375 miles] for this particular vehicle (not sure what GM's service interval is in the 'States), even with synthetic oil and was leading to a lot of the oil contamination and sludging issues that was made worse by poor crankcase ventilation due to a bad PVC valve design. They did make a slight change to the service interval in later years here in Oz, reducing it from 12 months/15K km to 9 months/15K km however I doubt that this makes a huge difference to the outcome.
I've heard it suggested that these long service intervals are also responsible for a lot of the lifter failures on GM's LS V8 motors with the AFM/DOD cylinder deactivation system, as oil contamination was leading to blockages affecting oil pressure at the DOD control manifold which was killing these complicated DOD lifters (I have this exact issue on one of my LS vehicles).
Yep 100%. Changing the oil often is the best thing you can do on these engines!!
they want you to buy new cars well before 200k...in response to long oil change interval recommendations
True , I have a Holden Commodore HFSV6 , with the 3.6 litre , I change oil every 5000 KM , it will go to the dealer for its scheduled service at 15000 KM , the intervals are way to high on these engines
How's this for way too high: I just changed the oil when I hit 5k miles since the last oil change and the Oil Life Monitor said 42%!!
4.0ltr
It is way too high, they recommend 12,000 to 15,000km every service, as they were trying to compete locally in that regard against the Ford falcon and Toyota aurion, any oil over 7000km in this engine = goodbye timing chains. Flawed pcv system you really can't afford sludge in any form. I do 5000km as well.
I have the 3.6 in my 2012 LaCrosse. I should mention the reason to change the oil more frequently, is the VVT. I believe there is a flash update for these cars for the oil minder to change the oil more frequently because the VVT's were failing due to extended oil changes. I haven't had mine reflashed yet, but I'm changing the oil and filter at %75 now.
I've heard they were doing the reflash as well, but it still wasn't conservative enough, so I say stick with 4-5k intervals. Also, the timing chains stretch and jump time when the hydraulic chain tensioners fail due to the extended OCI's and/or lack of maintenance (either by dirty oil or no oil.) This happenes on the older non-VVT engines as well. So add in the VVT cam phasers failing for the same reason, you have a recipe for disaster!! 💣💥
I have the 13 lacrosse with this engine vvt. I just got it and when I hit the gas it does not take off till after 12 sec. What can I do to fix this
Any check engine light? Without knowing what codes it's throwing, I'd focus on the throttle body, MAF sensor, and the high-pressure fuel pump.
Got a 3.0 LF1 on my middle east edition 2014 malibu it's running 300K kilos (about 200K miles) no problems at all and a i do is flush clean and change oil
That's how it's done, right there!! 👍
That’s what I thought! I was seeing 2014 impalas with 200k + on the market! N ppl were telling me “oh nooo the timing chain!!!” Im like well if I get an extremely low mileage one, I always change my oil every 3k, it should last a minute!!!!! I keep up with my cars most definitely as well. Knew I wasn’t crazy!
Got my 2012 3.6 up to 181k before I sold it with nary a timing chain issue!
I wish here in australia we keept on using the ecotec 3.8 liter cast iron motor it was a lot more reliable and easy to work on cheers.
I feel the same way!! One of the best motors of all time!!
Still driving my 05 Lesabure. 3800 with only 120,000 miles.
Best engine ever!
@@tiredofit1429 120k? It's just a baby!!
Well I have a 2016 Impala LTZ Limited my daily commute is 100 miles which 95% of it is Highway I do use full synthetic oil and also use the oil monitoring system I have 184,000 on it so far so good
Nice! 👍
The car that I had previous to the Impala was a 1998 Monte Carlo LS with a 3.1 l bought it used to years old in 2000 owned it for 17 years oil changes back then every month using 10 W 30 believe it or not 378 thousand miles and some change the transmission went out on it Thank You For You video and Responding back I guess what I'm trying to say is that if you take care of your cars regardless of the make and manufacturer that these cars can last
@@mikeberthold1593 That's impressive!! Did you always run the 10w30 from the very beginning or was that after she accumulated a few hundred thousand?? I'm remembering the first 3100 I had, I put 10w30 in it during the summer and it ran like shit. But the car only had 25k or so on it at the time, so the tolerances were still tight. 5w30 smoothed her right back out and I've never ran anything but in subsequent 3x00's. Not too surprising the transmission went out at that mileage, tho. If you had a 3800 in front of that 4T65-E it would've failed much sooner!!😁
I have a 2012 Malibu with the LY7. Still runs smooth at 126,000 miles. Oil change les than 5k. only use dexos oil with Wix filter. I tried pulling the pcv from the back of the engine, and modifying it. Not much room and its in there very well. Hopefully the car will last 200,000+ miles especially considering how ridiculous car prices have become.
Yeah, this year has been an insane one as far as car prices go!! Luckily car part prices haven't gone up too terribly, otherwise all of us DIYers would be doubly screwed!!
Ever since Holden in Australia moved from the 3800 Buick to these, loads have defected to the Ford rival as it's 4.0 Barra inline six never needs worries like this. A True Aussie motor -no worries!
Fortunately for us in the states, Ford never had such a motor for disenfranchised 3800 owners to defect to!!
@@CertifiedShadetree it'd be abit of a stretch fitting a Barra DOHC six transversely. It's already a shoehorn fitting it into a RWD sedan.
They're so good that even Toyotas that had the legendary 2JZ have had them installed. You can get massive gains with a relatively stock motor in turbo form. Word has spread and overseas people want them now. It was only sold in Australia and NZ.
It was a staple for taxi fleets here for many years as they handled the work with ease.
I personally don't care for the sound of the things and actually prefer the high feature V6 sound in our later Commodore. I also love how the 3800 sounded in your front drive GM products more than in our rear drive Holdens, although they were enjoyable to listen to in their own right.
For sure! Ford just doesn't have an engine worth a damn on sale in the states. They're putting their EcoBoost engines in everything, and they grenade before 100k. Putting a car engine in an F150 and adding a shitload of boost is a recipe for disaster!!
Hot Rod Garage on MotorTrend had an episode where they attempted to build a "better" Barra by using a 4.2 inline 6 out of an early 2000's Chevy Trailblazer. Their whole reason for it was they had trouble getting their hands on a real Barra, and the 4.2's are cheap and plentiful. So there is a bit of a buzz over that engine over here.
@@CertifiedShadetree I came across an Aussie discussing this GM 3.0 and 3.6 V6 and how it's actually a good powerful motor with good economy and not deserving of the terrible rap it's had here. The first lot were pretty ordinary but ones in later models were much better. He went though the same points you made about the PCV valve and how you must do your oil changes in time.
He also mentioned the water pumps are prone to failure as well as gunk getting under the rocker covers that have to be cleaned from time to time, not sure that is purely to do with the PCV valve issue alone or just how they are. It's a pity it's not a totally set and forget engine but videos like yours offer a way to keep it viable as a long term ownership prospect.
@@jamesfrench7299 From what I've read, the valve cover getting sludged up is a direct result of the restrictive PCV, and it tends to only happen on the valve cover with said restrictive PCV. I haven't personally experienced any issues with the water pump (knock on wood) but it's a good thing to keep in the back of your mind.
I always do fully synthetic oil changes at 3K. Mobil 1 keeps them clean.
You're wasting money by changing the oil every 3K miles with synthetic.
First, thanks so much for your videos and taking the time to reply to your viewer's questions with DETAILED answers, very nice of you sir. I live in Montreal and winters can get pretty horrible here. I honestly don't know much about cars but I am shopping for one at the moment and fell in love with the Lacrosse, my goodness that car is dreamy and cozy. I'm looking at either a 2010/2011 CTS with the 3.6 LLT vs 2012 with the 3.6 LFX. Is there really a big difference between the 2 in your opinion? Should I just focus on trying to find a 2012 LFX because of the known issues with the LLT ? Looking to buy one with around 100k miles more or less, and I hope to keep it for very long. Also, I'm wondering if you have more info about suspension within those models ? So many potholes in Montreal, I really want a car with the best suspension possible and best comfort. In your opinion is there a big difference between the HiPier Strut + H-Arm in the 2012 Touring model vs the MacPherson + 4-link in the Prem 2 model ? Thank you so much for your help and time.
I haven't had any experience with the HiPer Strut (yet) so I can't comment on ride, handling, replacement costs, reliability, etc. As far as engines go, I would absolutely recommend the LFX over the LLT! Just read the comments on my injector replacement video - the LLT sounds like an absolute nightmare of an engine (on top of that, I can't believe GM continued to install it in the Lambda crossovers until 2017!) Good luck with your search!! 🍻
@@CertifiedShadetree Thank you so much for your reply my friend, i will most definitely watch your other videos ! Have a great summer !
Thank you, and you as well!! 🍻
wow , i thought i was the only person who ever did that , i like using my trip meter to see how many miles are on my car oil , i use trip A , thats so easy , those stickers up on the windshield are junk , they fall off . at least i can look back anytime and see my miles on the oil
Looking at installing a catch can for my LFW engine soon. After it's next service!
👍
I have a 2005 Buick Lacrosse with the 3.6 250,500 miles on the clock and my timing chain is stretched.
Honestly, that LY7 had a good run. I wouldn't be disappointed in getting 250k out of an early 3.6 at all..
Any tips to keep the GM transmission that’s paired to these engines?? I have a 2016 impala with 3.6, I love my car, it’s my first American car always been a Asian car fan.
Drain and fill the fluid a couple times a year, then go on an every-other year drain and fill. ONLY USE DEXRON 6 (Dexron VI) fluid in these transmissions!! I have a video in the archives of my channel..
You helped guide me to save my 2010 Malibu 3.6 so hell yes! Anything you can do to catch can the rear PCV? I’ve got a new one drilled and replaced and I’ve got a catch can for my air intake PCV side too. I want to permanently fix this tho so I didn’t know if there was a way to modify the rears outlet to get a catch can on it?
Here's an old video: (ignore the part where I say it's not worth it - it totally is!!)
th-cam.com/video/-XlG5po15Fw/w-d-xo.html
I install a clean side separator in this one:
th-cam.com/video/hu57lGzxiRY/w-d-xo.html
Honestly this car impressed me I got my 15 limited LT with 82k miles and I use it for work (I drive a lot) and I’m currently at 162k and all I’ve had to do is oil changes and brakes also the infamous impala actuators 🤣. Running it on e85 really makes a difference too its quicker.
No injector issues with the E85?
@@CertifiedShadetree Not yet🤞🏽 hoping it stays that way lol
@@CertifiedShadetree I always switch back and forth between e85 and regular gas ( I run it down before Mixing them) and no problems tbh
@@cc56782 That's good!👍
@@CertifiedShadetree Piston rings can also develop issues with e85 the stuff is like glue especially if the car is not driven daily.
Nice bro. If mine lasts over 200 I hope the transmission can hang lol
Keep up on those fluid changes!
Had a 2008 3.5 v6 impala with 320,000 miles on it. Still running strong but the transmission had enough of my crap and gave up. Never ever broke down or left me on the side of the road
Those pushrod 60° V6's will outlast the 4T65E transmission 2 or 3 times over!!
Yeah I've had to replace my transmission in the driveway, not to tough, but other then that.. great car
THANK U
🍻
I just did my timing-chains..i used felpro's new/improved valve cover gasket that restricts more oil from passing through the cover and reaching the pcv valve....
Curious what engine you have? I've heard the LFX's had the improved valve cover gaskets from the get-go.
@@CertifiedShadetree 2011 gmc acadia 3.6L vvt
High feature v6
@@allentraylor5659 Ah, okay. That would be the LLT engine. They wouldn't have had the improved gaskets (or larger PCV orifice) from the factory, so good call on the FelPro's!
I've drove my 08 Cadillac Cts with the the DI 3.6 for almost 100k miles whilst using mobil-1 and have never had any issues. Itry to always get the oil changed around 5k miles. The miles are 98% highway and very little short trips done.
Thanks for this, I’m looking at a 3.6di 2009 cts and all of this timing chain stuff somewhat scared me away.
IMO there is no need to do ANY modifications to these engines so long as you maintain them . Check the oil level every week , service the car at 10000km MAX intervals and most of all DRIVE IT .. I honestly believe these engines DO NOT like being driven short distances over long periods of time .. had a 2016 Holden commodore evoke come in for a service some time last year.. had almost 170k km on the clock which is huge distance for its age... the whole car was IMMACULATE. Interior was showroom condition and the engine and underbody looked like the car had just come in for its first service it was bone dry.
The HFV6 engines get way to much hate because of bad maintenance . But if you follow the steps mentioned above they won't let you down.
I work as a Holden mechanic and I know a gold master technician for GM that swears by the V6 over even the LS powered commodores. He is quite literally one of the best GM mechanics on earth .. so that says alot for these engines.
I agree completely about the engines, but I believe the same could be said for GM vehicles in general. People bag on GMs for being unreliable, but it's truly the dipshits that don't maintain their vehicles properly that are the ones complaining the loudest!
Don't need to say it to you, but a WELL MAINTAINED vehicle, regardless of make, will run forever!
I own a 2011 Cadillac CTS4 3.6l with 31,000 miles and I am very worried about what I hear dealing with the timing chain. I run Mobile One in it since it was new am I doing anything wrong, is there something more I could do like run Royal Purple? I heard about the PCV valve enlargement, should I buy a new one (does it have enlarged holes new?)?
Thank you will change oil every 3000 and keep it running as long as possible
I had a Buick the same engine and never had problems that had 187,000 mi on it and my brother raced this thing everyday a hundred plus miles per hour no problems
He was giving it regular "Italian tuneups"!! 🤣🤣
@@yunusquddusofficialactor From my understanding, every once in a while it's actually good for these engines (or any modern engine for that matter) to put the hammer down on the highway. It gets the oil moving through the engine parts real nice and keeps it lubed.
I switched to full synthetic oil, and change oil and filter 4,000 117,000 and i use my trip A meter to calculate the miles on my oil
Righteous! ⭐
You mentioned drilling out the PCV valve holes, and also the catch can. Imo assuming the larger PCV holes for better ventilation. Why the catch can? I am very hesitant to buy a GM vehicle with the 3.6 V6 because of this timing chain fiasco I see every time I pull into a shop. I have a GM 3.1 liter V6 with almost 300k miles. Still runs like the day it left the lot. Never had to do anything to it other than replacing the intake manifold gaskets. Why doesn't GM make engines like this any more? Do the new 2020 and 2021 3.6L engines have the same issues? Sorry for all the questions.
Lemme first say I agree with you 1000% on GM not making pushrod V6's anymore. I'm actively looking for cars for both of my stepsons that have 3800's in them (kinda hard to find one that's not rusted all to hell, considering 2008 was the last year they made them.) I might compromise and go 3.5/3.9 (takes you to 2011) but you're still dealing with all of that VVT shit. Still better than dealing with the finicky 3.6, tho!!
So in regards to the PCV, you hit the nail on the head. GM did resolve this issue around 2014, but it's best to check anyway. So like I said in the video, these issues all stem from lack of maintenance, however the rear valve cover is the first place the carbon buildup starts, due to the restrictive PCV. The catch can is to keep oil out of the intake tract. The problem isn't unique to the 3.6, it's very common on all direct-injected engines. All engines experience a bit of oil blow-by, but port-injected engines naturally wash all of this off of the intake valves due to placement of the injector right outside the intake valve. With DI, no such thing happens due to the fuel being sprayed directly into the cylinder, so the oil collects on the intake valves, turns to carbon, and builds and builds, and builds until it chokes off the intake valves' operation. The catch can's purpose is to intercept this oil blow-by before it enters the intake tract and wreaks havoc on the valves.
Getting back to the 3.6, they are known for oil consumption and oil in the intake when cheap oil is used. I haven't heard any horror stories on the latest LGX and LGZ yet, as GM seemingly makes incremental improvements to every iteration of this engine. But let's not kid ourselves here, these engines are a far cry from the old pushrod GM engines where you could neglect them for 50k miles or more before you 'd have any problems. My main reason for this video is not to discourage anyone from purchasing a vehicle with this engine, mainly for people who already own one. I'm saying if you maintain these engines exceptionally well, you will never have any issues. I'm not sponsored by them, but I stand by my claim that Valvoline Modern Engine 5W30 is the best oil to use in these engines. If you use this oil, there is no need for a catch can.
Hope this clears up any confusion!!
@@CertifiedShadetree question in low idle when starting the car I hear a small noise the motor or timing chain. also when I slow drive like 10 12 miles per hour. Can you do a video of normal engine sound at starting and 2 -5 10-12 miles an hour probably a timing chain issue i recently did a change oil pennzoil. I have a 13 ls direct injection vv
@@cristiansalcido471 Until I do such a video, check out these instead:
Driving around at the beginning, outside with the hood raised and engine running at the end: th-cam.com/video/Aqf5SqxdvPE/w-d-xo.html
Starting the engine and revving it near the end of this video: th-cam.com/video/VXTp1nOvfVI/w-d-xo.html&
2018 Chevy Colorado 3.6 L, use Mobil 1. Change oil at 5-6k miles with Mobil or Wix filter. It does not burn oil. 59k miles on it.
Are you using "plain" Mobil 1 or the Extended Performance? I read the M1 EP is good at preventing carbon deposits on GDI engines.
Yes. Mobil 1 extended performance.
That’s NOT the same engine. The new 3.6 engine has no shared parts just same displacement.
Reminder there are 2 PCV hoses on a 2009 3.6L Direct Injection VVT engine. 1. Clean air intake or FRONT of engine and 2. Dirty air REAR of engine hard to find but on drivers side rear of engine where actual PCV lives. Great video at 3:12 showing REAR pcv actual valve thanks.
You are correct. I've since made a video installing a clean side separator on my 3.6. Keeps the oil that gets pulled into the intake tube under acceleration out of the tube..
But how do you change it. I can’t find one video on it.
@@LoeNateDogg The PCV? I have one video showing you how to access it. After that, just grab the end of it with a pliers, wiggle it back and forth, and pull straight up.
th-cam.com/video/-XlG5po15Fw/w-d-xo.html
ams oil Royal purple and valvoline full synthetic are the best in that exact order
Nowadays I'd rank Valvoline Extended Protection #1, merely due to the price. It's only a couple bucks more than the "regular" Valvoline synthetic and it doesn't burn off like the rest of them do. I would agree with you regarding RP & Amsoil if you were using it in a pushrod engine and going for a 20k drain interval. Would be a complete waste of a good oil in one of these engines..
i love the tips , awesome video , whats the purpose for the pcv again ?
It was too restrictive and not only raised the internal crankcase pressure, it caused sludging inside the rear valve cover. The factory increased the bore sizes in later model years, but it's always a good idea to check whether or not yours has the enlarged holes. I take the PCV valve out every oil change and spray some carb cleaner inside it just for good measure..
@@CertifiedShadetree post more videos i love watching about vehicles i learn a lot . Thank u buddy
@@myfavorites1016 For sure!
@@CertifiedShadetree hey mate. I have a Holden Calais ( Buick Regal) in US. 2018 version of the 3.6. Was the valve size modified in this? Thanks in advance.
Yes it was. It has a completely different PCV valve design from the LFX, and the holes are larger..
My wife’s 2009 Pontiac g8 has a 3.6. 135,000 miles and have always changed the oil at 5k miles with Valvoline synthetic. I has the dreaded code for timing chain. The thing is, that light has been on since 50k miles. The engine isn’t noisy like the chains have stretched.
Try cleaning the VVT solenoids, the crank sensor, and the cam sensor first. Might be something that simple..
i have a 08 saturn vue xr with the 3.6 im using the valvoline high mileage ill run some marvel mystery oil in it every now an then seems to work well
Yeah that's not a bad idea. I've been running BG EPR once a year in mine..
I'd like to hear more details on WHY the timing chain issues are happening with this engine.
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand, the timing chain tensioners apply their tension via the engine oil pressure. When oil changes are neglected, over time the engine sludges up, resulting in less oil pressure being fed to the tensioners. The chains therefore go slack, leading to them jumping timing. Another side effect of poor maintenance is the VVT solenoids sludging up, causing even more timing issues.
@@CertifiedShadetree In one way it's a bad design if compared to the previous model GM V6 engines. A engine with cam chain usually lasts the life of the engine, heat, low oil never had much of an effect on the life of the cam chains in previous engines, but not these engines. As you can see, everyone is asking the same questions? Backwards technology???? Everybody I know would prefer the older GM V6 engine tech.
@@billielockman7347 If I had my way it would be 350's and 3800's forever!!🤘🤘
@@CertifiedShadetree Yes, back to something decent. These new sophisticated designed engines are problematic and extremely stressful to own. I have had 2 engines blow on me in the last 10 years, the first was the dreaded Nissan Patrol with a 3l turbo diesel and just recently Ford Ranger turbo diesel. My mates Nissan Navara turbo diesel blew up around 4 years ago. These new diesels are pathetic as far as reliability goes, no way would I take a modern 4x4 diesel on a bush trip, not a chance! And as for these new designed petrol engines needing new cam chains ??? That's a major component we never ever had trouble with in previous models, but at least you get warning.
Low oil levels = high heat = stretched chains. check your oil level and never let it get too low. chains will last a long time if you do that.
I have a 2010 Chevy impala LT, any tips around what fuel to use? I currently use flex fuel.
I wouldn't use e85 every single time you fill up. Throw in a tankful of regular ole 87 octane every 3rd or 4th fill-up.
All i use is flex,I have no issues
can you make a video on the best way to carbon clean the valves on an LLT?
Already have:
th-cam.com/video/LXZ8cIZeDGA/w-d-xo.html
I got a 2016 impala ltz limited 3.6 having trouble finding a good way to change my map sensor on this vehicle motor type haven’t seen a impala with the same motor or any videos expect this one appreciate the tips on keeping my motor up to date
The intake is off the car, but here's how I got mine off:
th-cam.com/video/6D-pyT3iVZA/w-d-xo.html
Half the Impalas MADE are that engine!! Why do think you need to change the MAF?? There's all kinds of videos here.....
On a car that new, a bad MAF is probably NOT an issue!!
I have always been a Mobil 1 guy but in my Ram Hemi just switched over to Shell Rotella Gas Truck full synthetic. I noticed it quieted down any lifter noise quite a bit compared to the Mobil 1. Check out the Project Farm channel for a really great comparison test between the two. It is also Dexos 2 approved. Plan on putting it in my 2012 CTS 3.6 that I just bought next oil change. 91,000 miles on it but it seems to be in great shape, time for plugs at 100K though. I have also heard there is a new cam cover gasket by FelPro that can help reduce that PCV oil consumption somewhat. Can anyone confirm that?
I know what you're talking about, they made changes to the valve cover gaskets. There's a relief cut out in the area under the PCV. I believe the LFX's already have the revised gaskets.
LGZ is a really a different engine. They changed the timing chain from 3 chains to 2. New heads, intake, Pcv system. They just kept the 3.6 moniker. All though keep changing you oil every 5k miles with synthetic oil!
Good info, thanks for sharing! 🍻
It's actually a completely different engine. A new generation engine you would say. Same family, new design.
LGZ and LGX engines have Active Fuel Management.
@@atx-cvpi_99 I thought they had auto stop/start, not AFM. 🤷♂️
@@atx-cvpi_99 They also have auto stop start!
I change mine every 2000 miles plus a bottle of rislone, 2005 Caddy srx.
👍 That'll keep 'er running a long time!!
this is also the motor in saab v6’s they just have lower compression and a turbo
All tips can just be "CHANGE YOUR DAMN OIL!"
Pretty much!!
That's a good idea for a short, TBH..
Amazes me how many don't do the most basic thing, I change the oil on my 2002 Trailblazer and my 2013 Impala every 5000 miles and add Lucas oil treatment every time.
@@davidahart2476 It just doesn't register with some people!
Is there any videos for changing that pcv?
Yes, I have a link to one in the video description.
I have 133K miles on my 2012 Impala. Only engine issue so far has been a purge solenoid. I use full Dexos approved synthetic every 3 to 5K miles. I usually change it at around 50% on the oil life monitor. The transmission takes 5 quarts btw. I drain that every 30K miles or so. It runs, sounds, and drives like a new car still. I would think that 200 to 250K miles is attainable without any major issues like timing chains. If you follow the oil life monitor you could expect half of those miles before the timing chains fail. Great engine if it is maintained properly.
Couldn't agree more! I change my trans fluid every spring, usually about 5.3 qts. I have 175k on my '12, and she runs like a shaved ape!!
@@CertifiedShadetree Maintenance is the key!
@@CertifiedShadetree Let me know how many miles you get out of it. I am shooting for 200K at least.
For sure! I figure I'll hit 200k two years from now if I continue to drive the same amount of miles as I am now. I will surely record the moment for TH-cam posterity!! 😁
@@CertifiedShadetree It's a shame that these cars and engines get a bad reputation. It's mostly due to lack of oil changes. I will watch for it!
Enlarging pvc holes sounds good but it will lead to increased oil dump on cylinder heads, the problem that you start with.
Installing a catch can will take care of that.
Hey man I just bought an 08 Cadillac CTS4 with the 3.6 L engine in it. I don’t know a lot about cars, so how can I tell if my timing chain is going bad (or if it has a lot of sludge inside the casing) and what do I do as regular maintenance to keep the timing chain healthy other than changing the oil often. Any comments are appreciated!!
To start off on the right foot, I'd have a BG Dynamic Engine Service performed. They'll clean all the sludge out of the engine, clean the intake tract, and clean the fuel injectors. Do the PCV mod and install the revised valve cover gaskets. If you're having timing chain issues, there'll be codes set that'll indicate as such.
I always change at 3000 miles.....OIL IS CHEAPER THAN PARTS! I do coolant at 40k and transmission every 30k. on my Impala.
I’ve change everything on the motor it has a rough idle I keep the oil change
The catch can is more for direct injection to keep the oil off the back of the valves, because there is no fuel being sprayed into the port to clean the valves, just air with the PCV oil which cooks onto the valves and clogs up the engine.
Indeed it is!
Catch can is great for the LFX, the LGZ has a redesigned PCV system and eliminates the need for a catch can.
What does drilling out the pcv valve prevent or why should I do it? I just got a new 2012 Chevy impala with 41k miles on it and I want to keep it running forever.
Due to the holes in the PCV being undersized, the airflow through the dirty side is restricted too much and as a result carbon builds up under the rear valve cover, and eventually spreads to the timing chain and the rest of the valvetrain. The factory (supposedly) corrected this issue in 2014 on the LFXs by installing PCVs with the enlarged holes. I say supposedly 'cause when I pulled the PCV on my 15 Limited, it still had the smaller-holed PCV (Camaro guys swear their 14 & 15 LFXs have the enlarged holes - take that for what you will..)
@@CertifiedShadetree ok cool! Thank you!!
@@CertifiedShadetree If the holes are restricted, could that cause moisture buildup issues in the crankcase?
@@socialjusticewarrior9601 I haven't heard of any moisture buildup issues, just carbon sludging. The engine will burn that off right away anyway..
@@CertifiedShadetree could you make a video on how to do this? I don’t want to mess it up.
I change mine at 3,000 miles, and use full synthetic everytime! I got a 2014 Camaro V6 VVT GDI, that I drive hard. Now my concern is tires and suspension due to all the potholes in the State of Michigan
Ah you gotta love potholes. We have a metric fuck-ton of 'em here in MN as well!! I posted a vid recently where I replaced inner tie rod ends on an Impala, and one of 'em was completely bent to shit!!
@@CertifiedShadetree I can imagine it! I heard MN gets lumped into the rust belt. Potholes are the only reason I dislike owning any car period. But It's just not as fun trying to peel out in a pickup truck with oversized tires lol. If only there was a way to permanently end potholes forever.....
They gotta have a reason to keep those state employees employed!! 🤣🤣🤣
For a 2017 lgx on a camaro, is the pcv mod not required? I am asking because in your description it says they began doing it from factory for a few years now
No, the LGX/LGZ engines are completely redesigned. See the pinned comment at the top of the comments section.
Would a 2023 Camaro LGX require the PVC drilling or this correct the issue by then? I do my oil changes at 5k with Mobil 1 Extended Performance full synthetic. Thanks for the vid!
No, the LGX has a vastly improved PCV valve. I would consider a catch can and clean side separator, however. Check out Elite Engineering, they have both specifically for 6G Camaros.
Does this apply to the 3.6 in the Cadillac XT6? Mine is a 2023 and I'm wondering if this is still a issue or not for the 2023 model year. I use Mobil one extended life oil in all my cars which is good for 20,000 miles but i change it somewhere between 7,000 and 9,000
Except for drilling out the PCV (due to it being a different design,) absolutely. Although the XT6 has the much improved LGX engine, you should still religiously maintain it. That includes 4-5k mile oil change intervals.
@@CertifiedShadetreegot it, leave the pcv valve alone and change the oil between 4009 and 5000. Thank you
🍻
What are your thoughts on ACDelco full synthetic oil?
TBH, I haven't tried it yet. That's an excellent idea for a future video, though!!
@@CertifiedShadetree Thanks. Appreciate your content!
Thanks, I appreciate the compliment!! 🍻
Thinking about getting the Commodore with the LFX and an aisin manual, would this similarly apply?
Yes.
Great site! I got a lot of good tips for my 2012 Chevy Impala, I went ahead and bought a new PCV valve (barb) and drilled it out to specs but I ran into a problem I cannot get that old PCV out no matter what I try any helpful tips???
Since you have a new one you don't have to worry about destroying the old PCV. Clamp a vise grip onto the nipple and rock it back and forth and twist it while you pull up. You can also pry underneath with a flat blade screwdriver.
@@CertifiedShadetree Great! I'm going to try it thanks for the info
@@markmcginnis7892 Best of luck!🍻
yep yep , i have private mechanic , he said the same thing about timing chains , he said he would never go 5,000 on the oil , he has seen lots of problems from not changing oil regular , and even tho oil changes are more up in price , its better than internal wear from not changing regularly . i have been firm believier in 3,000 oil changes , that oil life junk , i would never go by that , im old school everything is ontime
Not to mention it's extremely easy to change the oil and filter on these cars yourself, so there's really no excuse NOT to change your oil!
@@CertifiedShadetree oh i agree 100% , pure laziness when oil isnt changed at least every 3,000 , we did at one time go 2,000 in winter and 3,000 summer
Thank you for prompt response 👍
@@myfavorites1016 🍻
I will leave question in the comments of what im dealing with tho with my 2013 chev impala. Bought it in 2016 with 34,041 one owner. I will write u soon .
Are the holes in the PCV already inlarged after 2014 or should they be enlarged also on models after 2014?
I'm 0 for 2 on 2015's being enlarged from the factory, so you're likely going to need to enlarge yours as well..
@@CertifiedShadetree watch JR go mentions the newer enclaves have them but doesn’t mention the year
If it's a 10th Gen Impala, then I doubt it received the updated PCV, even up to 2020. The 2018+ Enclave and Traverse have a variation of the old LFX called the LFY (it's basically an LFX with auto-stop/start) that are most likely the engine he's speaking of. I would still check, however.
Any other 3.6 past 2016 is the all new design LGX or LGZ that has a completely different PCV system (well obviously not the old Traverse & Enclave, they had the old, OLD LLT engine until 2017 - that engine is SHIT!!)
@@CertifiedShadetree imagine if they would had just perfected the 3.8 engine and transmission combo. GM must have been getting to close to producing a actual reliable engine. So of course let’s just scrap that idea lol
I think they had the right idea with the Gen V 4.3 V6, just sucks they used it in base model work trucks and not as a replacement for the 3800. They managed to jam a 5.3 LS under the hood of a W-Body, that LT 4.3 would've easily fit FWD applications..
Thinking about buying a 2015-2017 Impala tenth gen with the facelift, not sure if the 3.6 V6 in these are the same as the 3.6 your working on, also wondering if your tips would also apply to the 10th gen Impala.
Yes, the 10th Gen has the exact LFX 3.6 engine and 6T70 transmission as the late 9th Gens (well, not ALL 10th Gens, a 4 cylinder engine was available also 🥺 which I would avoid at all costs!) That being said, the same maintenance tips apply.
I've got one of the 3.6 LY7s in my Holden SV6 Commodore.
The engines get such a bad reputation all because of bad maintenance.
I change my oil every 5000km
Currently have 310,000km on the clock.
Also have drilled out my PCV outlet and have a catch can installed.
Great torque for a V6. I have to be careful not to light the rears up in 2nd gear in the wet lol
I'm pinning this comment! You, sir, are the embodiment of what I'm trying to get across in this video!!
@@CertifiedShadetree saying that I've changed the water pump. Gearbox rear seal and driveshaft couplings and centre bearing
@@CertifiedShadetree and I'm thinking my AirCon compressor is dying lol it's noisy as hell when running
Could just be the compressor clutch going bad. It's not that hard to change out, either!
@@CertifiedShadetree I only noticed it the other day. It's getting the time around work to do it. Hopefully won't need the AC much this summer