This is one item I had written down and forgot to mention. Yes it’s correct it needs to be “ON” the vector. So I made 3 tests for the allowance. The 0.2mm was too loose, the 0.1mm was still loose but good for many joints that will need to be glued. 0mm was difficult to get together and I just used some CA Glue here and there. Make sure the material thickness is set correctly and that the diameter of the bit is correct. That’s really all you can do.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. You indirectly answered a question I could not find the answer to. It was not necessary to run the Dogbone Filleter Gadget because the Box Creator added it to the toolpath. Thanks again.
With me the buttons were also not visible, but I made the window a bit larger by pulling on the underside until I could see the buttons. Now I can see the whole window everytime.
I found I can change my screen resolution and get the buttons to show up. One time I couldn't get them to show up by trying to scroll down so I figured it out by increasing my screen resolution and limiting my screen magnification. I wished the HTML screen was just one page so we wouldn't have to scroll down.
Good video, thank you! In regards to the tolerances, obviously you can go beyond 1 decimal and use 0.08 and such, most modern machines are able to work that precisely. I suggest clamping ANY wood joints together regardless of tolerances, with that your pieces will be literally welded together. Dont just rely on tight joint and tolerances IMO.
I think in wood and using metric you will really never need the second decimal place. Also a joint too tight has no room for glue and squeezes everything out let alone the difficulty of assembling it. So yes I am a woodworker and I think a joint benefits from the right tolerance depending on the type of glue used. Epoxy for instance needs no clamps while polyurethane glue will push every joint apart during curing if not clamped. Anyways use the box maker gadget to make boxes quickly.
Thank you very much for putting this together. I had been using online box creators and Adobe Illustrator, then importing the svg file into Aspire. After following your tutorial I noticed that there is no intuitive way to indicate how many finger joints per side on the gadget. It seems to use a default. For example, what if I wanted 3 per side instead of 4 or vice versa. Does that make sense?
So the only way you can change the amount of fingers is by the dimension of them. It really is a simple tool to make a simple box. If you like to make changes then you can by creating the box drawing and changing it by editing the drawing itself. But then I think I would just start from scratch not using the box creator
One more observation. The gadget only allows for an equivalent bottom and top box configuration. There are far too many use cases where the bottom is larger than the top…or vice versa. For example some planters or garbage bins are smaller at the bottom than the top (say 30mm squared at the bottom and 40mm squared at the top). Is it possible to address this within the gadget? Or does this need even further adjustment in Vectric Aspire?
Yes, I do explain that I think in the video where I make the spoil board. So if you Zero on the machine bed any material variation from plate to plate or batch to batch will be invisible to the Z setting. You will always cut all the way through the material AND avoid cutting into the spoil board. Hope this short explanation makes sense.
@@JBWorx just watched th-cam.com/video/YVEvCBv6PM0/w-d-xo.html and i didn't hear anything about the Z-0 to the spoilboard (but perhaps i missed it). i'm not sure why 0-ing to the material surface made more sense as a beginner (i've only been doing CNC for 8 months) but what you said above makes sense since otherwise you're thinking depth-of-cut rather than thickness of material after cut. perhaps it varies by project and i haven't done enough projects that make more sense zeroed to the spoilboard.
Yes there are times were you need to have a price depth of a pocket for instance without surfacing the material first. Now you need to zero out on top of the material. If I have to cut through the material I always prefer to zero out on top of the spoil board.
Yes certainly. You can select 2 tools in V- carve and use one for the Final Cut. However I think I would just run a 1/8” and see how you like it. The finger joint fillets are almost not noticeable.
Nice project!. Not sure I want to buy a Vectric license along with the annual F360 lic though :( Good results with the 1/8" bit! I'm guessing 4 passes? was surprised you weren't running a higher spindle speed...
Yes it’s a bit of a cost but for woodworking you can’t beat the Vectric software. I usually have low feed rates because I have time, I don’t mind if my project takes 5min longer to cut and with that I can use a lower spindle speed. Yes the 1/8” bit I like a lot for projects like this. It’s great for cut outs in 1/2” ply. Thx for reaching out.
my problem have not can install gadgets, version 8, but gadget not have selection "install new gadget" and has try add box creator gadget to gadget file folder, no working.
Yes it works the same. Look on the support board for Box Creator 1.5 It has some fixes in it to remember the settings and has comments in the LUA file to change the defaults from dovetail to box joint and flat lid to tabbed. Also to not add the ramp and the tabs. So I can run it most every time with out having to change those settings each time.
@@JBWorx you just have to buy a specific machine and use specific software with specific add ons. Or you can use fusion, or any parametric modeling software, which already has a box generator, and post the code to any machine. With a full suite of options so your tabs and joints actually fit. But hey. Shill on.
@@JBWorx I just found the box creator gadget puts them in places that are not easy to sand. So I don't use the tabs. I just shoot a 23 gage pin nail so the parts don't move around. I have a version 1.5 of the box creator gadget that remembers the last settings used in all the fields and I modified it to default to tabbed lid instead of dovetail. Also turned off the ramping as well. SharkCNC fixed a few of these things for me. The file is on Vectric User Support Board.
Nice thank you !! Instead of shooting the nails you can make a test using a compression bit. It will pack the chips very tightly into the path of the tool so that the part that gets cut out stays in place. It works in many situations.
My Bosch Router blows out the chips and clears the cut as it goes along. The heavy pieces will stay in place most of the time but the smaller 1/4" material parts will get blown around. So the 23 gage pin nails are my go to choice. The holes are hard to see in the material as they are like a straight pin in size.
Struggling to get joints as tight as yours. Looks as if mine creates on the vector rather than outside.
This is one item I had written down and forgot to mention. Yes it’s correct it needs to be “ON” the vector. So I made 3 tests for the allowance. The 0.2mm was too loose, the 0.1mm was still loose but good for many joints that will need to be glued. 0mm was difficult to get together and I just used some CA Glue here and there. Make sure the material thickness is set correctly and that the diameter of the bit is correct. That’s really all you can do.
For the USA folk I use a .01 inches for my allowance in the Box Creator.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. You indirectly answered a question I could not find the answer to. It was not necessary to run the Dogbone Filleter Gadget because the Box Creator added it to the toolpath. Thanks again.
Your welcome, I am glad you liked it
With me the buttons were also not visible, but I made the window a bit larger by pulling on the underside until I could see the buttons. Now I can see the whole window everytime.
Excellent thank you for the Tipp
I found I can change my screen resolution and get the buttons to show up. One time I couldn't get them to show up by trying to scroll down so I figured it out by increasing my screen resolution and limiting my screen magnification. I wished the HTML screen was just one page so we wouldn't have to scroll down.
Well once you know it’s not really a hassle just a small inconvenience
Good video, thank you! In regards to the tolerances, obviously you can go beyond 1 decimal and use 0.08 and such, most modern machines are able to work that precisely. I suggest clamping ANY wood joints together regardless of tolerances, with that your pieces will be literally welded together. Dont just rely on tight joint and tolerances IMO.
I think in wood and using metric you will really never need the second decimal place. Also a joint too tight has no room for glue and squeezes everything out let alone the difficulty of assembling it. So yes I am a woodworker and I think a joint benefits from the right tolerance depending on the type of glue used. Epoxy for instance needs no clamps while polyurethane glue will push every joint apart during curing if not clamped. Anyways use the box maker gadget to make boxes quickly.
@@JBWorx americans, I swear always got an opinion where its not needed, I apologize for my countryman some of us dont have any manners
No problem all good. 👍 and thank you for reaching out.
Thank you very much for putting this together. I had been using online box creators and Adobe Illustrator, then importing the svg file into Aspire. After following your tutorial I noticed that there is no intuitive way to indicate how many finger joints per side on the gadget. It seems to use a default. For example, what if I wanted 3 per side instead of 4 or vice versa. Does that make sense?
So the only way you can change the amount of fingers is by the dimension of them. It really is a simple tool to make a simple box. If you like to make changes then you can by creating the box drawing and changing it by editing the drawing itself. But then I think I would just start from scratch not using the box creator
One more observation. The gadget only allows for an equivalent bottom and top box configuration. There are far too many use cases where the bottom is larger than the top…or vice versa. For example some planters or garbage bins are smaller at the bottom than the top (say 30mm squared at the bottom and 40mm squared at the top). Is it possible to address this within the gadget? Or does this need even further adjustment in Vectric Aspire?
The gadget can only make straight boxes. Anything tapered you will make a classic design by drawing every piece out in the Vectric software.
i have yet to find a video where you explain why you zero Z at the machine bed. will keep hunting; hopefully i can find your reasons soon.
Yes, I do explain that I think in the video where I make the spoil board. So if you Zero on the machine bed any material variation from plate to plate or batch to batch will be invisible to the Z setting. You will always cut all the way through the material AND avoid cutting into the spoil board. Hope this short explanation makes sense.
@@JBWorx just watched th-cam.com/video/YVEvCBv6PM0/w-d-xo.html and i didn't hear anything about the Z-0 to the spoilboard (but perhaps i missed it). i'm not sure why 0-ing to the material surface made more sense as a beginner (i've only been doing CNC for 8 months) but what you said above makes sense since otherwise you're thinking depth-of-cut rather than thickness of material after cut. perhaps it varies by project and i haven't done enough projects that make more sense zeroed to the spoilboard.
Yes there are times were you need to have a price depth of a pocket for instance without surfacing the material first. Now you need to zero out on top of the material. If I have to cut through the material I always prefer to zero out on top of the spoil board.
@@JBWorx that makes total sense.
Give it a try, I think you will like it.
Nice video, cant believe I haven’t tried this.
Could you use a 1/16” compression bit and a 1/8” as a clearance?
Yes certainly. You can select 2 tools in V- carve and use one for the Final Cut. However I think I would just run a 1/8” and see how you like it. The finger joint fillets are almost not noticeable.
Nice project!. Not sure I want to buy a Vectric license along with the annual F360 lic though :( Good results with the 1/8" bit! I'm guessing 4 passes? was surprised you weren't running a higher spindle speed...
Yes it’s a bit of a cost but for woodworking you can’t beat the Vectric software. I usually have low feed rates because I have time, I don’t mind if my project takes 5min longer to cut and with that I can use a lower spindle speed. Yes the 1/8” bit I like a lot for projects like this. It’s great for cut outs in 1/2” ply. Thx for reaching out.
my problem have not can install gadgets, version 8, but gadget not have selection "install new gadget" and has try add box creator gadget to gadget file folder, no working.
So you can go directly on the Vectric website and download the gadget.
Can you get this gadget to work on VCarve Pro vs 12.004?
Yes it should be running on all newer versions starting from V9 on forward
Yes it works the same. Look on the support board for Box Creator 1.5 It has some fixes in it to remember the settings and has comments in the LUA file to change the defaults from dovetail to box joint and flat lid to tabbed. Also to not add the ramp and the tabs. So I can run it most every time with out having to change those settings each time.
Thank you.
Thanks for reaching out
Amazing! We can s custom-supply the CNC cutter at the best price, no matter what materials. pls contact me if you need it, tks.
Dear, i made this model, unfortunately two sides not accurate.
Hmm 🤔 not accurate how? Did you use the allowance? And how much ?
zero allowance@@JBWorx
With zero allowance the parts will fit together only by using a hammer … at leased if your machine cuts accurately.
Is this a Vectric product or a third party ?
I think it’s from Vectric as you download it directly from their website
just make a parametric model in fusion. voila. done.
The point of this video is that you don’t have to design anything. It’s the easiest and fastest way to make a box.
@@JBWorx you just have to buy a specific machine and use specific software with specific add ons. Or you can use fusion, or any parametric modeling software, which already has a box generator, and post the code to any machine. With a full suite of options so your tabs and joints actually fit. But hey. Shill on.
Ok
@@JBWorx just the facts.
Certainly a good option if you make boxes of various sizes all day long.
Tabs in wrong place.
Yes the software will put huge tabs in the design. However you can delete them and place our own with the dimension and position you like.
@@JBWorx I just found the box creator gadget puts them in places that are not easy to sand. So I don't use the tabs. I just shoot a 23 gage pin nail so the parts don't move around. I have a version 1.5 of the box creator gadget that remembers the last settings used in all the fields and I modified it to default to tabbed lid instead of dovetail. Also turned off the ramping as well. SharkCNC fixed a few of these things for me. The file is on Vectric User Support Board.
Nice thank you !! Instead of shooting the nails you can make a test using a compression bit. It will pack the chips very tightly into the path of the tool so that the part that gets cut out stays in place. It works in many situations.
My Bosch Router blows out the chips and clears the cut as it goes along. The heavy pieces will stay in place most of the time but the smaller 1/4" material parts will get blown around. So the 23 gage pin nails are my go to choice. The holes are hard to see in the material as they are like a straight pin in size.
Yes they is a good solution. You could also check into the fiberglass nails. More expensive however
Your accent - you keep switching between the European one and English one with your pronunciations.... it's messing with my brain 😅
Cool project tho.
Funny fact first time I video recorded myself and listend I could not believe the accent I have 😂😂 I don’t here one at all when I speak 😀
you need change you brains.
Interesting fact … my English in school was very bad, I have no talent for speech or writing.