@@Freeney3 I ended up making my own based on Black box's double vacuum motor unit design. It was a lot of work and if I had to do it over, I'd probably just buy the Black box until. Keep in mind that it's loud! Imagine two regular shipping vacs running.
Suppose you used tile gaskets. Have you run trials to see if you could eliminate tabs altogether? To me that would be the ultimate use of vacuum tables.
The plunge rate is proportional to how many flutes, or cutting edges, on your bit. If your bit has 1 flute, the plunge rate is the same as the feed rate. If your bit has 2 flutes, the plunge rate is 1/2 the feed rate. If your bit has 3 flutes, the plunge rate is 1/3 the feed rate.
Once again Ryan … knocked it out of the park! I was unfamiliar that node hack made suck a difference. HUGE thanks for that. As for hack #5, I do that all the time. I’d rather have one bys in the standard dimensions and just slap it in table and go. Even when I get a file from elsewhere, I can’t see gluing up multiple panels and those odd sizes. I’d rather take the extra time and edit it to fit on a 1x6, 1x8, 1x10 or 1x12. Unless it needs to be a large object, but for most part you can twist, nest, or angle most cuts to fit on a standard size.
Goes to show a pro CNCer can still learn tricks. Kyle has the best Vetric course money can buy. He is a great teacher. Great tips in this video. Thank you.
Of course, some of us actually like all of that work you're trying to get rid of, but it's nice to know that things like this are out there. I can see if you're trying to make money and save time, premade panels would be a no-brainer. But for custom one offs, sometimes that "drudgery" and customization is part of the journey.
I run my endmills around 150 ipm (onefinity woodworker). My slowest bit is a 90v I use for miters at 40 ipm and 0.25" DOC. The miters fold into a box. I've tried running it faster but the miter quality goes down. I started doing onion skins when i realized tabs were trash
I bought one of those boards. I was impressed by how flat and how square the edges were. As little as my wood experience is, that caught my attention right away.
All great tips, I do a lot of pockets so the tip with the stepped inside profile after roughing the pocket will be a great time saver. I know you roughed your pocket to .47 in this case, what was your DOC for the stepped edge prior to bringing in the bowl bit for final pass?
I did that at .24 inches deep. Since I was going down .5 inches with the bowl bit and it has a .25 radius, the max I would go down with that step is .25 inches.
@@cutting-it-close I figured you were making the step equal the radius but just wanted to confirm. That will definitely help cut down on time and make my bowl bit last longer so thank you for the response
@@cutting-it-close just got my golden boy and used this exact method with the step before finishing with my bowl bit and it sped up my process drastically
I feel like some of that advice only applies to Vectric. I don’t think my Shapeoko does the same thing when running the v-bit to add the chamfer. It always runs smoothly and doesn’t go node-to-node like his did before smoothing out all the nodes. Am I wrong?
I know your a busy man but if you could answer a quick question I would appreciate it. My wife and I are retiring next year, probably around September and want to start buying our tools.......... and start our cnc Journey. What brand Cnc would you recommend for us to buy with approximately 5 thousand or so to spend on a CNC Machine. We are new to this but want to have a go in this direction. I really appreciate any help you can offer. Thank you and God Bless
@cutting-it-close thank you very much. My wife and I so excited to get into this adventure but I have to admit I'm a little overwhelmed. Watching your work here on TH-cam is very helpful. Thank you very much
Leaving eggshells is great if you have to engrave something after cutting... If you don't leave eggshells, than you have to pull out your product, clamp it again, hard to find zeros of it's irregular shape... Great and clever 👍
Very informative and awesome insights. A few followup questions please. You may have answered but I didn't them. Great demonstration of cutting with lots of nodes and a few nodes. Q!) Was the bowl bit you used a downcut bowl bit - most of the ones I know are up cut. So if not a down cut, how did it cleanup the tear out you show in your ruffing bit section. Q2) How much step did you leave for the bowl bit to clean up. q) Last question because you have a Laguna IQ, what is the max speed you have run that machine on. I thought it was limited to 5000 mm/sec (or 197 in/min). Do you run the IQ faster than that - Laguna IQ users want to know 😂😂😂 Again great videi
Whenever I use the raster method to rough out a lot of material, I plan the bulk of the raster passes to be on my Y axis (on my CNC that is along the gantry) so that the X axis (gantry) moves the least. The gantry is bulky and heavy on my CNC (Legacy Maverick 3 x 5 ATC).
You've changed my mind about you. I didn't like your messaging toward hobbyist and how its impossible to compete against the bigger producers and turn your serious hobby into a business, even though you found early success that way. This is your best video yet, you have me as a subscriber now. I'm going to tryout some of your products and consider your course.
Problem with too much nodes for me is exact the opposite. If I don't design curves with certain amount of nodes it doesn't make a nice smooth curve.i think also this depend on aspire, acc parameters are related to nodes, I have two CNC, one with proprietary software and one I run with artcam . But my engravings are more on details focused vs max speed
Can anyone help me understand why my machine is cutting curves so slowly? Like %25 of the feedrate. When cutting parts that have straight lines and curves it makes it impossible to get the right chip load.
That’s why you use the proper chipload. Lots of hobbyists don’t run their NEAR what they should or could and end up burning them out and breaking them because of it.
@@allboutsean5483I just ran a 1/2" bit (down cut) for a few hours this weekend in oak and had no issues. I thought I was running it a little conservatively at 200ipm because I wasn't confident in my hold down at first. The bit wasn't even hot. Adaptive clearing, low step over, and long depth of cut don't put that much stress on the part. The machine is definitely rigid enough for a 1/2" bit.
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This is probably the best video you ever made. I love these practical tips and tricks about running the CNC
There will be more to come like this! Getting back to old school teaching!
@@cutting-it-close thanks a lot, love it! Would also like a more in depth lesson about onion skinning. Thanks again, you're killing it
agreee!
After our conversation at Work Bench Con, you helped our cut times to half of what they were. This video is about to do that again. Thanks Ryan!
Give the Gold diggers a try, you’ll love them!
@@cutting-it-close Just ordered 2! Cant wait.
Hack #6: vacuum hold down. Saves so much time clamping, no tabs, no vibrations, etc. Single greatest upgrade I've done in years.
Which one did you get??
@@Freeney3 I ended up making my own based on Black box's double vacuum motor unit design. It was a lot of work and if I had to do it over, I'd probably just buy the Black box until. Keep in mind that it's loud! Imagine two regular shipping vacs running.
Suppose you used tile gaskets. Have you run trials to see if you could eliminate tabs altogether? To me that would be the ultimate use of vacuum tables.
@JeffDenig I no longer need tabs on 90% of what I do.
@ very interesting. Are you using a downdraft style cnc?
The plunge rate is proportional to how many flutes, or cutting edges, on your bit.
If your bit has 1 flute, the plunge rate is the same as the feed rate.
If your bit has 2 flutes, the plunge rate is 1/2 the feed rate.
If your bit has 3 flutes, the plunge rate is 1/3 the feed rate.
Once again Ryan … knocked it out of the park! I was unfamiliar that node hack made suck a difference. HUGE thanks for that. As for hack #5, I do that all the time. I’d rather have one bys in the standard dimensions and just slap it in table and go. Even when I get a file from elsewhere, I can’t see gluing up multiple panels and those odd sizes. I’d rather take the extra time and edit it to fit on a 1x6, 1x8, 1x10 or 1x12. Unless it needs to be a large object, but for most part you can twist, nest, or angle most cuts to fit on a standard size.
Goes to show a pro CNCer can still learn tricks. Kyle has the best Vetric course money can buy. He is a great teacher. Great tips in this video. Thank you.
Of course, some of us actually like all of that work you're trying to get rid of, but it's nice to know that things like this are out there. I can see if you're trying to make money and save time, premade panels would be a no-brainer. But for custom one offs, sometimes that "drudgery" and customization is part of the journey.
Naaah
I run my endmills around 150 ipm (onefinity woodworker). My slowest bit is a 90v I use for miters at 40 ipm and 0.25" DOC. The miters fold into a box. I've tried running it faster but the miter quality goes down. I started doing onion skins when i realized tabs were trash
All of the tips are amazing! Number 4 blew me away!
A lot of great information in this video. Thank you for passing along this knowledge.
Another awesome video. I've got a question about your point cutting tool path, is that a profile on the line or do you do offset it
Offset. I move it 0.75 mm
Thanks for the tips. Will try this on my DIY CNC maybe save some time. Hope one day, own a onefinity and can speed up everything.
I bought one of those boards. I was impressed by how flat and how square the edges were.
As little as my wood experience is, that caught my attention right away.
The nodes hack is a lifesaver! Great video and remember, "If you ain't cutting few nodes you ain't cutting it right" ahahhahahah
quick question...what was the process to cut the piece out from the onion skin? did you run another pass or something else?
I was wondering the same thing. Maybe utility knife and sanding?
I use a flush trim router bit and or a 7 degree carbide bit
we need a part 2 of this :D
Great video dude!
All great tips, I do a lot of pockets so the tip with the stepped inside profile after roughing the pocket will be a great time saver. I know you roughed your pocket to .47 in this case, what was your DOC for the stepped edge prior to bringing in the bowl bit for final pass?
I did that at .24 inches deep. Since I was going down .5 inches with the bowl bit and it has a .25 radius, the max I would go down with that step is .25 inches.
@@cutting-it-close I figured you were making the step equal the radius but just wanted to confirm. That will definitely help cut down on time and make my bowl bit last longer so thank you for the response
@@cutting-it-close just got my golden boy and used this exact method with the step before finishing with my bowl bit and it sped up my process drastically
I feel like some of that advice only applies to Vectric. I don’t think my Shapeoko does the same thing when running the v-bit to add the chamfer. It always runs smoothly and doesn’t go node-to-node like his did before smoothing out all the nodes. Am I wrong?
crossed expansion and contraction with those thick layers? looks really nice though!
What's the best bit for cutting out 2" lumber?
What kind of wood is that? Seem like its layered? Where can i find that?
It’s called BamX it’s layered and food safe, it’s legit! cicworkshop.com/collections/materials/products/bamx
I know your a busy man but if you could answer a quick question I would appreciate it. My wife and I are retiring next year, probably around September and want to start buying our tools.......... and start our cnc Journey. What brand Cnc would you recommend for us to buy with approximately 5 thousand or so to spend on a CNC Machine. We are new to this but want to have a go in this direction.
I really appreciate any help you can offer.
Thank you and God Bless
I have an Altmill coming in a week, I will compare it to the Onefinity, Laguna in a video in a few weeks!
@cutting-it-close thank you very much. My wife and I so excited to get into this adventure but I have to admit I'm a little overwhelmed. Watching your work here on TH-cam is very helpful. Thank you very much
Leaving eggshells is great if you have to engrave something after cutting...
If you don't leave eggshells, than you have to pull out your product, clamp it again, hard to find zeros of it's irregular shape...
Great and clever 👍
I LOVE LOVE LOVE the Golden Girl!!
Dude a question! What size is this CNC ?
48x48”
@@jmspex really? Wow I was betting it was 32x32
Very informative and awesome insights. A few followup questions please. You may have answered but I didn't them. Great demonstration of cutting with lots of nodes and a few nodes.
Q!) Was the bowl bit you used a downcut bowl bit - most of the ones I know are up cut. So if not a down cut, how did it cleanup the tear out you show in your ruffing bit section.
Q2) How much step did you leave for the bowl bit to clean up.
q) Last question because you have a Laguna IQ, what is the max speed you have run that machine on. I thought it was limited to 5000 mm/sec (or 197 in/min).
Do you run the IQ faster than that - Laguna IQ users want to know 😂😂😂
Again great videi
Whenever I use the raster method to rough out a lot of material, I plan the bulk of the raster passes to be on my Y axis (on my CNC that is along the gantry) so that the X axis (gantry) moves the least. The gantry is bulky and heavy on my CNC (Legacy Maverick 3 x 5 ATC).
How much time one tool change takes?
You've changed my mind about you. I didn't like your messaging toward hobbyist and how its impossible to compete against the bigger producers and turn your serious hobby into a business, even though you found early success that way. This is your best video yet, you have me as a subscriber now. I'm going to tryout some of your products and consider your course.
Another great video!!! Thanks!
What material (wood) did you use
I saw the whole vid. We used birch plw.last and we had some problems
We used BamX it’s the 3-layered material. cicworkshop.com/collections/materials/products/bamx
Nice tips 👌
What’s the max feed rate of the onefinity?
I believe they list it at 400ipm
Problem with too much nodes for me is exact the opposite. If I don't design curves with certain amount of nodes it doesn't make a nice smooth curve.i think also this depend on aspire, acc parameters are related to nodes, I have two CNC, one with proprietary software and one I run with artcam . But my engravings are more on details focused vs max speed
Can anyone help me understand why my machine is cutting curves so slowly? Like %25 of the feedrate. When cutting parts that have straight lines and curves it makes it impossible to get the right chip load.
great info man!
Balls deep plunges ... cuz I love breating bits. :) good advise.
That’s why you use the proper chipload. Lots of hobbyists don’t run their NEAR what they should or could and end up burning them out and breaking them because of it.
i run 3/8 compression bits at 720ipm
I love cnc terminology frizzies . Lol Great video.
those feed rates might work on veneer plywood, but running in solid white oak is a different story
you should time stamp this one brotha, so that after the first watch, we can come back and quickly refresh certain things later
your bits seems really good. too bad you don't ship to EU :P
More info on each step would have been great - like zooming in on the screen.
great video
CIC 👍
Could you do a video on using 1/2” bits with the pwncnc and onefinity machine? 🙏
Get a 3/8” EM. The 1F machines aren’t rigid enough to run 1/2” EM to their proper chiploads. They can run a 3/8” EM really well though.
@@allboutsean5483 ya, this makes sense!
@@allboutsean5483I just ran a 1/2" bit (down cut) for a few hours this weekend in oak and had no issues. I thought I was running it a little conservatively at 200ipm because I wasn't confident in my hold down at first. The bit wasn't even hot.
Adaptive clearing, low step over, and long depth of cut don't put that much stress on the part. The machine is definitely rigid enough for a 1/2" bit.
Hack: crude or unskillful. When you see "hack" in a title, RUN, DON'T WALK to the nearest escape key.
Why do you need 1 inch of cutting face for a bit you are advertising for wood cnc projects where you will only use the very end of the bit?