AIRFIX METEOR FR.9 2023 CLUB KIT how to build it!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
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Today I'm building the Gloster Meteor FR.9 in 1/72, the 2023 Club kit from Airfix. How do you do it?
00:00 Introduction
02:29 Cockpit
07:09 Fuselage
09:40 Wings
20:09 Paint
25:30 Undercarriage
29:37 Final details
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/giulio-fazio/the... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hi Gary, I have the new 1/72 F8 I think I'll just build it wheels up in flight mode. Thanks Gary for the nose wheel tip, keep up your amazing channel........🇬🇧🐶
Even with the walls of the wheel wells, your voice is sounding better already 👍☕🐢
Thanks! 😃 coffee is doing wonders for me...
@@garys_stuff 😁☕☕
@@garys_stuff : That'll be the Airfix coffee, of course..... 😉😆
I only drink Tamiya coffee. It's more expensive but the beans are all identically sized.
@@randytaylor1258 and the Tamiya beans always fit the coffee maker ☕☕☕🐢
It's veeeeery interesting for me to watch your building videos, Gary! While lack of time to build my own planes i satisfy myself with your lessons, thank you!
A lovely looking kit main reason i would get club some point this year
You sound tonnes better Gary. That's a nice meteor 👍
I had this for Christmas. The 1/48 was a great kit. I'm looking forward to building this one soon.
Very attractive build and well-done video. To me, the reconnaissance versions of most jets look the best, the Meteor being no exception. I would add RF-4, RF-101, and Mirage IIIR as further examples. I like the slimmer nose shapes.
Another fabulous build, thank you
Lovely Meteor, Gary.
Every time I’ve built a Meteor I’ve had a problem with the undercarriage, next time I build one it will be in flight!
Ian
I found that I had to sand the tires halfs on the flat side till about a mm per side is gone--then the tires fenders dont have a open seam
@@bullitt3980 is that the Airfix one? I’ll save that for the next time 👍🏼
Ian
Nice build Gary! Thanks for sharing. 😎🇨🇦
Hi Gary, that was a absolutely outstanding build, sir, it turned out perfectly, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia 👍👍
Many thanks Les!
Sounding better my friend. It is still a nice looking craft despite the fiddly bit. The airfix club really does not make sense for anyone outside the UK, but no reason to start making sense at my age (club and kit ordered). If your tasting apparatus is back to normal we expect the airfix coffee and tea review shortly. We need a good English biscuit to go along of course. 😊
The tea and coffee review is imminent, as taste buds have resumed normal service!
@@garys_stuff excellent build. have the old Matchbox kit in my stash...never been opened as it still has the plastic wrapping around the box.
@@garys_stuff crumpets? Hmmm 🤔. Now I'll need comparison to Belgian coffee/Expresso, of course. ☕🐢
A nice candidate for building in flight. Perhaps some kits in the future? Great job as always my friend.
I may well do, perhaps where I've already done a build with the gear down...
Very handsome build!
A couple of questions.
• What silver did you use on the fuel tanks?
• Considering there's nothing behind the camera windows, would they look better painted black on the inside?
• I get nervous mounting clear parts with anything stronger than white glue -- any comments?
• Stencils. Have you seen a 1:48 Phantom II in SEA camo with stencils in 2 different colours?! At least, as you say, they're all present for you so you can choose what to apply. (Is the aircraft modelling equivalent of a rivet-counter a stencil-counter?)
Again, very handsome. Thanks for fighting the COVID for us.
Hey Randy! The silver is Vallejo Metal Color aluminium over grey primer. Interesting point about the windows - I like them clear but then I'd have liked an F24 on a mount behind the windows! Clear parts - larger ones I've tended to use PVA of some sort but small light covers I find a tiny bit of extra thin works OK as it follows the seam by capillary action. Phantom stencils scare me- I've got one to do in 1:72 and there are lots of them. I'm sure it's a case of make sure they are all there or there will be trouble - doesn't mean everyone will use them. Hope that helps!
@@garys_stuffjust finished the Matchbox meteor...option i chose to do is the NF-14 model of no 85 squadron,Royal Air Force Church Fenton,Yorkshire,1958
Im working on the f8 version and Ive never had such assembly troubles in a new Airfix. Im still not happy with how the nose fits and the landing gear looks like a good ideal but takes a lot of sanding to avoid a gap in the wheel splash guards.
I' with you on that. The nose seems to be one of those will it / won't it things. I've had one go straight on no worries. The I've had one that was the devil's own job to fit. Thing that bugs me most of all is the nose wheel leg habit to be installed so early when it will plainly get broken. Not their finest hour, sadly.
Nice build Gary. I want this kit and some other Meteor variants now. 😅 I wish Airfix would start including a seated pilot and a stand with their kits again. This looks ready to be modelled in flight, except for those omissions. Finding aftermarket seated pilots to match my models is quite difficult or painfully pricey if I do find them.
You may be on the right track in one regard, the club kit. Even if it's a smaller extra sprue added for the base and a pilot. Probably could be reused over several years. Maybe have 2 or 3 versions of that sprue, depending on what the club kit is that particular year -- ex- #1 extra sprue fits WW2 pilot and stand for 72nd scale, #2 extra sprue fits jet era pilot and stand, etc. Can spread the cost out over 10 years that way and add a bit something to the club kit. 🤔🤔
Some kind of consistency would be useful. Some kits do have them, others don't. The Mosquito has a pilot but no navigator - the Lancaster just a pilot. And so on. I can understand it with bigger kits, but they must have a gallery of aircrew in 3D ready to drop into a frame in design in 1:48 and 1:72.
@@garys_stuff might be a good one to toss at Dale/Pramjet. Old lesson from a boss when I was very young, never just hand the boss a problem without a solution. 2 or 3 if possible. As I got older and further up the food chain, it became option 1 has these plus/negatives and cost, option 2 has different plus/neg, etc. Dropping something into molds may have further redesign costs. As those get updated, to keep costs lower in meantime here's a small frame option (and can be done locally) to add in, while differentiating Airfix as "We listened to customer feedback, heard you and are adding pilots and stands back to our lineups" thus the only kit manufacturers to do that. Win hearts and minds of customers at low cost while standing out from the pack. It's low hanging fruit and easy to change verbage and still hits home.
Just more of the late night last cup of coffee ☕ as the brain winds down.
@@crazylocha2515 great idea. Hope the guys at Airfix are listening.
@@garys_stuff agreed. Or put out pilots, navigators and other crew as separate sets for use with the model planes.
HI Gary, Glad to hear your on the mend and still showing how to be philosophical with tricky issues such as nose gear-build. Just wondering what your take is on the setting of Air supply pressures for painting.
Do you set recommended or your preferred pressures with the airbrush blowing or not blowing? My gauge drops quite significantly when the button is pressed, it can be 8 - 10 psi depending on the needle size so I end up wondering if one would be better than t'other. 🤔
Sorry to say it depends on what I'm doing! I use higher pressures for things like varnish where I'm doing large coats, much lower if I'm trying top add spots of colour. I'm around 6-7 psi (0.5 bar) for the smaller work, maybe 15 psi (1 bar) for varnishes. But that's just me!
@@garys_stuff That’s ok thanks, but my main question was, are you setting the regulator pressure with the airbrush blowing or closed?
Mine had 2 bits missing and the tail hadnt molded properly
Garry I got a tip, use gloves because magnified out hands and vingers look verry dirty.
And get manicured weekly. Because, you know, you're a star. 😎
Hi Gary do you have any of the weights spare can’t find then any ware tried tire places and bike shops around stoke
I got mine online: amzn.to/3FFgPer
Stencils are a bit much on a 1/72nd kit lol
Wait till you see the Phantom!!!
@@garys_stuff btw, that particular one you pointed to, said "pull". Fitting since you're "pulling" our leg, you love stencils sooo very much 😁☕🐢
Busted, I can’t get enough of them…🤣
My question why do people paint everything to far ahead them the part don't hold up when glueing it best to glue thing in then paint they say painting and glue does not hold a strong join the paint after dry ozes out after glueing the halves together when I glue I make sure all parts are glue to plastic them paint the part after even the halves are holding better with out seams of paint showing through the seams I be doneing these model for many years mine are neat and tidy. Joint I've seen mamy people do this on there channels it just not a strong bond paint and glus never hold up
The rule about scraping paint and chrome away is because plastic cement only bonds plastic to plastic. Other cements -- white glue/PVA, super glue/ACC, etc. -- are surface cements. The joint may be a little weaker but it's usually fine for smaller parts, and can be debunked if needed with water (white glue) or acetone/nail polish remover (super glue). Super glue also dries quickly and that can be quickened with accelerator.
Depends on the part and how easy it will be to access once it's fitted. It's easier for me to paint things like ejection seats, stores, undercarriage and the like off the kit. Sometimes I'll gently sand off a bit of paint on a bonding surface (or to get the fit correct).
@garys_stuff
A nice thing about modern fighters is that ejection seats are designed to exit in emergency, so they can slide in after painting, later in the build.
Calm down