You can change 1 at a time to prevent mixups. Leave the coils attached because those clips break easy. A magnetic flexing sparkplug socket is like $15 and worth it. Power tools are fast, but take your time with manual on your own vehicle because screwing up a sparkplug thread can result in big$$$ fixing it.
I watched this video three times and I'm so glad I stuck around the third time for the outtakes. 😂 This was my first time changing my own plugs and it was a success! thank you for this great tutorial.
Hey Drew thank you for watching. I'm glad I could help. Of course please don't forget to hit that subscribe button. Hopefully I'll have some more Mazda videos for you soon.
DO NOT tighten your spark plugs with a battery drill/impact gun as shown in this video! It can damage the threading on the cylinder head, the spark plug is steel while the cylinder head is aluminum, screwing it in with your bare hand can avoid cross threading which can damage the aluminum threading easy, so its recommended that u screw and tighten your spark plugs with a rachet
I'm pretty sure if you watch the whole video you'll see that I say to thread it in by hand and you can run it up with a gun. I've done this for the last 25 years and haven't had an issue so yeah. Obviously you don't use a gun to initially thread a spark plug in.
Thanks for the video my 2014 mazda 3 just started having less power but no check engine light was on so I changed all the spark plugs and noticed the problem was stil there still with no check engine light. So the next day I went and bought 4 new coil packs changed them all and then the problem was still there it actually got worse and the check engine light came on.
Hey Mario, the best advice is to put back the stock spark plugs and coils. Then run the car with a scanner that will tell you live data, generally when you have a lack of power it could be related to a number of things depending on mileage and maintenance. I would need a bit more information to put you on the right path but I would say check the live data to see what your fuel trim numbers are. Also see what your oxygen sensors are doing. I would also look at the air filter if it's never been changed of course this all depends on mileage. If you're close to the Toronto area the easiest thing would be just to come by. I hope this helps you
I changed the spark and coils on . 2012 mazda 3, but I still get missed fire on 3rd cylinder. What can be other issues. You advice will be highly appreciated
Hi, if you change the ignition portion the first thing I would do is switch the coil or spark plug with any other cylinder that is good and see if the problem follows. If it does either spark plug or coil is defective. If it doesn't you may have an issue with many other possible things. The first thing to do would be to check compression, the second thing to do would be to do a leak down test if compression is low. Or if compression is fine it's still a good idea to do a leak down test. If all of those tests check out the next thing to do would be to check out the fuel delivery system. It may just be a bad or going bad injector. It could be wiring to the injector or coil possibly. But start with the basics by doing a coil Swap and then checking compression.
Great video sir!just made me realize that on my same mazda I have a solid oil spill/leak on the generator...you have any ideas what causes it? It kinda makes me nervous. Wish to hear you from! Thanks
I'm not sure what would cause the oil leak. The best thing to do would be to wash it off and then start the vehicle up to see where it might be leaking from. I have a video on how to power wash an engine bay so that you don't make any costly mistakes. Check that video out before you power wash your engine bay and don't forget to hit that subscribe button. I hope this helps you.
Hey jeffrey, it is not recommended to use anti-seize on spark plugs. It really depends on the type of spark plug and head material. There are very few instances where it is a good thing. Whenever you have a steel spark plug going into an aluminum head it's not generally a good idea. It also depends on the type of anti-seize and the duration of the plug is supposed to be used for. In short there are many different factors that determine whether you should or shouldn't and it is almost always better not to have anti-seize in that specific area.
Generally in most cases you won't see a noticeable increase in performance in terms of horsepower. Over time with long trips you may see a slight increase in fuel mileage. But that mainly has to do with the plugs being new, of course depending on how old your original plugs are also. Most newer cars come with a platinum plugs so I'm assuming that yours probably are. NGK is a great company so whatever plug is recommended by them should work really well. Also check the cost of the stock replacement plug. Sometimes the dealership is actually cheaper than aftermarket replacement. Good luck 👍
Why would you not use a torque wrench if you have it to tighten them in after the power tool if you have one? Seems like an unnecessary step that could cause overtorquing the spark plugs (even if that's not likely to cause any major issues). Just a minor point.. otherwise excellent video!
Thanks for the comment Tim. So the general process for doing spark plugs and the reason why I use a power tool is only to run down the spark plug because a lot of newer plugs are quite long. Essentially the power tool acts as a speed handle would. But in no way shape or form should you ever use a power tool to tighten up a spark plug. You should always use a torque wrench to torque the spark plug to the correct tightness required. Power tools like an air ratchet or impact driver are quite violent so if you try to apply torque you can easily break the spark plug which would be a bad day. I hope this answer helps you. Of course don't forget to hit that subscribe button if you haven't already.
Unfortunately my friend I do not know that information. The best thing you can do would be to call your local dealership with your VIN number and they'll be able to give you the appropriate spark plug needed for your vehicle. Please Subscribe if you haven't already. Thank you
Unfortunately my friend I don't remember what the spark plug part number, the best thing to do would be to get the part number off of the spark plug that is in your engine if you know it is the original plug. If not I would suggest taking your Vin number to your local Mazda dealership parts department where they will be able to tell you what the exact part number is that is needed. You can then take that part number and cross-reference it to get the correct plug with any parts store. Hope that helps don't forget to hit that subscribe button.
To be honest I can't remember what the torque spec is. But as long as you don't go too tight you'll be fine. You can make those decisions based on the length of the spark plugs threaded portion as well as the type of material the head is. 20 foot pounds Maybe tight in comparison to what the manufacturer says but I haven't had any issues doing this through the years.
This is the part number that I got offline ILKAR7L1, it's an NGK part number. But it is best to check with the dealership to see what is appropriate for your VIN number.
Hey bobby. I don't remember exactly what I said but if you don't need to disconnect the connectors to change the spark plugs that doesn't mean that you can't. In my case I always take the ignition coils off inspect them clean them and put them back into the car which is much easier to do with the wiring harness disconnected. Hopefully that answers your question. Thanks for watching don't forget to hit that subscribe button.
Hey TJ Eclipse, antiseize is generally not needed. If you are going to use it you can use copper antiseize. In regards to the Gap these plugs were from Mazda, I did check the gap to make sure that they were all the same across the four. Unfortunately I don't remember off the top of my head I will look it up for you.
Gap Used Plug 1.05 - 1.40mm New Plug 1.05 - 1.15mm I hope this helps you. I have also updated the description with the same information. Please don't forget to subscribe if you haven't already. Thank you :-)
You can change 1 at a time to prevent mixups. Leave the coils attached because those clips break easy. A magnetic flexing sparkplug socket is like $15 and worth it. Power tools are fast, but take your time with manual on your own vehicle because screwing up a sparkplug thread can result in big$$$ fixing it.
I watched this video three times and I'm so glad I stuck around the third time for the outtakes. 😂 This was my first time changing my own plugs and it was a success! thank you for this great tutorial.
Hey Drew thank you for watching. I'm glad I could help. Of course please don't forget to hit that subscribe button. Hopefully I'll have some more Mazda videos for you soon.
how much did u save from the dealership
Good vid... and I liked it when you air blew the dust and debris before removing coils
A lot of great advice! The magnet tip really helped. Great demonstration. Thank you!
Thank you for the compliments :-)
DO NOT tighten your spark plugs with a battery drill/impact gun as shown in this video! It can damage the threading on the cylinder head, the spark plug is steel while the cylinder head is aluminum, screwing it in with your bare hand can avoid cross threading which can damage the aluminum threading easy, so its recommended that u screw and tighten your spark plugs with a rachet
I'm pretty sure if you watch the whole video you'll see that I say to thread it in by hand and you can run it up with a gun. I've done this for the last 25 years and haven't had an issue so yeah. Obviously you don't use a gun to initially thread a spark plug in.
nice video!!.. straight to the point👍.. no unnecessary info
Awesome step by step breakdown!
Excellent video my 2014 is due for spark plugs soon!
Awesome I'm glad you liked the video. If you haven't already please consider subscribing to help me out. 🙂🙃😉
Thanks for the video my 2014 mazda 3 just started having less power but no check engine light was on so I changed all the spark plugs and noticed the problem was stil there still with no check engine light. So the next day I went and bought 4 new coil packs changed them all and then the problem was still there it actually got worse and the check engine light came on.
someone help lol
Hey Mario, the best advice is to put back the stock spark plugs and coils. Then run the car with a scanner that will tell you live data, generally when you have a lack of power it could be related to a number of things depending on mileage and maintenance. I would need a bit more information to put you on the right path but I would say check the live data to see what your fuel trim numbers are. Also see what your oxygen sensors are doing. I would also look at the air filter if it's never been changed of course this all depends on mileage. If you're close to the Toronto area the easiest thing would be just to come by. I hope this helps you
What model TESLA is this ?
link to that badass magnet thing you have? thanks for the vid
Hey Kalen can you link the time in the video that I used the tool and I will post the part number for you or a link if it's available on amazon.
I changed the spark and coils on . 2012 mazda 3, but I still get missed fire on 3rd cylinder. What can be other issues. You advice will be highly appreciated
Have you checked the fuel filter & fuel hose? They could be clogged
Hi, if you change the ignition portion the first thing I would do is switch the coil or spark plug with any other cylinder that is good and see if the problem follows. If it does either spark plug or coil is defective. If it doesn't you may have an issue with many other possible things. The first thing to do would be to check compression, the second thing to do would be to do a leak down test if compression is low. Or if compression is fine it's still a good idea to do a leak down test. If all of those tests check out the next thing to do would be to check out the fuel delivery system. It may just be a bad or going bad injector. It could be wiring to the injector or coil possibly. But start with the basics by doing a coil Swap and then checking compression.
Hey, good suggestion but I don't think that would be the next step. Check out my reply if you'd like to find out more. Thanks for trying to help out.
Great video sir!just made me realize that on my same mazda I have a solid oil spill/leak on the generator...you have any ideas what causes it? It kinda makes me nervous. Wish to hear you from! Thanks
I'm not sure what would cause the oil leak. The best thing to do would be to wash it off and then start the vehicle up to see where it might be leaking from. I have a video on how to power wash an engine bay so that you don't make any costly mistakes. Check that video out before you power wash your engine bay and don't forget to hit that subscribe button. I hope this helps you.
@@JimmysAutoClinic thanks for the answer, going to check it and hope for the best!
Next video; rotary engine swap on a Mazda 3. Give the people what they want Jimmy! 😂
Maybe one day LOL
Nice vid. Why didn't you use ant-seize on the new plugs ?
Hey jeffrey, it is not recommended to use anti-seize on spark plugs. It really depends on the type of spark plug and head material. There are very few instances where it is a good thing. Whenever you have a steel spark plug going into an aluminum head it's not generally a good idea. It also depends on the type of anti-seize and the duration of the plug is supposed to be used for. In short there are many different factors that determine whether you should or shouldn't and it is almost always better not to have anti-seize in that specific area.
@@JimmysAutoClinic correct..NGK Laser Iridium comes with anti seize coating
Is it better to replace the stock with ngk iridium sp for mazda 3 2018? Is there a significant difference in performance and gas consumption?
Generally in most cases you won't see a noticeable increase in performance in terms of horsepower. Over time with long trips you may see a slight increase in fuel mileage. But that mainly has to do with the plugs being new, of course depending on how old your original plugs are also. Most newer cars come with a platinum plugs so I'm assuming that yours probably are. NGK is a great company so whatever plug is recommended by them should work really well. Also check the cost of the stock replacement plug. Sometimes the dealership is actually cheaper than aftermarket replacement. Good luck 👍
@@JimmysAutoClinic thank you so much.
What is the torque specs for the sparkplug?
I think I mentioned the torque in the comments somewhere or in the video.
How long they need to be change the spark plug?
I'm not sure what the interval is my friend.
75000 miles recommended
Why would you not use a torque wrench if you have it to tighten them in after the power tool if you have one? Seems like an unnecessary step that could cause overtorquing the spark plugs (even if that's not likely to cause any major issues).
Just a minor point.. otherwise excellent video!
Thanks for the comment Tim. So the general process for doing spark plugs and the reason why I use a power tool is only to run down the spark plug because a lot of newer plugs are quite long. Essentially the power tool acts as a speed handle would. But in no way shape or form should you ever use a power tool to tighten up a spark plug. You should always use a torque wrench to torque the spark plug to the correct tightness required. Power tools like an air ratchet or impact driver are quite violent so if you try to apply torque you can easily break the spark plug which would be a bad day. I hope this answer helps you. Of course don't forget to hit that subscribe button if you haven't already.
podrias decir el codigo de las bujias que utiliza?
Sorry I don't understand Spanish
@@JimmysAutoClinic Could you tell the code of the spark plugs it uses?
Unfortunately my friend I do not know that information. The best thing you can do would be to call your local dealership with your VIN number and they'll be able to give you the appropriate spark plug needed for your vehicle. Please Subscribe if you haven't already. Thank you
what is the part number of the plug?
Unfortunately my friend I don't remember what the spark plug part number, the best thing to do would be to get the part number off of the spark plug that is in your engine if you know it is the original plug. If not I would suggest taking your Vin number to your local Mazda dealership parts department where they will be able to tell you what the exact part number is that is needed. You can then take that part number and cross-reference it to get the correct plug with any parts store. Hope that helps don't forget to hit that subscribe button.
Wish my 2017 mazda 3 was this easy I had to torque for 5 min and the spark plug never released
I read that the torque spec should be 10 - 14 Nm , wouldn't that be roughly 7 - 10 ft lbs? You tightened them at 20 ft lbs, which over double .
To be honest I can't remember what the torque spec is. But as long as you don't go too tight you'll be fine. You can make those decisions based on the length of the spark plugs threaded portion as well as the type of material the head is. 20 foot pounds Maybe tight in comparison to what the manufacturer says but I haven't had any issues doing this through the years.
What plug
Sorry my friend, can you be more specific?
2016 Mazda 3 2.0 skyactive hatchback spark plugs. Dealer not answering phone.
This is the part number that I got offline ILKAR7L1, it's an NGK part number. But it is best to check with the dealership to see what is appropriate for your VIN number.
"WTF Kevin" LOOL
If you don't need to disconnect the connectors for changing spark plugs, why did you? Makes no sense...
Hey bobby. I don't remember exactly what I said but if you don't need to disconnect the connectors to change the spark plugs that doesn't mean that you can't. In my case I always take the ignition coils off inspect them clean them and put them back into the car which is much easier to do with the wiring harness disconnected. Hopefully that answers your question. Thanks for watching don't forget to hit that subscribe button.
No antisieze or gap mentions tho.
Hey TJ Eclipse, antiseize is generally not needed. If you are going to use it you can use copper antiseize. In regards to the Gap these plugs were from Mazda, I did check the gap to make sure that they were all the same across the four. Unfortunately I don't remember off the top of my head I will look it up for you.
Gap Used Plug 1.05 - 1.40mm
New Plug 1.05 - 1.15mm
I hope this helps you. I have also updated the description with the same information. Please don't forget to subscribe if you haven't already. Thank you :-)
Shouldn't use antiseize with aluminum, and the gap from NGK will be factory done. He did everything right man..
12-14 ft/lbs.. guys don't use power tools for this..
I agree if you don't know how to use power tools you shouldn't be using them. The same also applies to hand tools or common sense.