This is so easy to do, I'm disappointed in myself that I chickened out and had the dealership do it the first time. I'll do it myself from now on. Thanks for the video!
Great video! FIY to anyone working on a 2021 Mazda3 turbo. They have an extra 8mm bolt on the plate and an extra 10mm bolt on the heat shield. Found that out when doing my plugs yesterday.
Yup, I was confused at first. Also, I don’t know if the clearance is different on the ‘22+, but I was really struggling trying to seat the rightmost coil pack because of the hoses on my ‘21. The hose bracket is attached with two more 8mm bolts and I instantly got the coil pack in after I removed them
@@VECTlONI was in the middle of this on my 21 and just didn’t have the clearance until I read your comment and removed those two bolts on the bracket. Great comment.
Excellent video. Dealership quoted me $350, so I appreciate you taking the initiative on creating and submitting this video! Now I can put that money towards other mods!
Not removing the hose at the end puts you at the risk of cross thread on coil packs bolt due to mis angle. Also prevents the coil pack from engaging the spark plug all the way.
You're probably right, but there is enough room to get the coil and the bolt on straight, it's just a little tough to hold the hose and put the coil on at the same time.
I just replaced mine at 62k miles. Still running perfectly fine, no problems. A mechanic buddy of mine said plugs can easily go 75-100k miles and he asked me why I was doing it. The dealer was bugging me each time I went in so I just wanted to get them off my back. They quoted me $414 but I did it myself for $80. I will add that you should check the gap. Yes the plugs come pre-gapped but they could’ve been bumped in shipping. Mine ranged from .036-.040. Original plugs were gapped a lot tighter: .020-.026
I learned that on our cars(mazda3 turbo) it’s important to do our spark plugs every 40k miles because ours technically wear twice as fast. This is because of something mazda implemented called “Spark Controlled Compression Ignition”. This is part of the cars knock avoidance system.
Thank you! I'd always recommend using a torque wrench when you can. That being said there are some people on the internet that swear by getting them hand tight and then tightening another half turn. You can pick up a torque wrench for fairly cheap though and certainly cheaper than if you were to have a dealer install these for you.
Yes you can...as you tighten the plug, you will feel the plug's washer touch the cylinder head, continue to slowly tighten until you feel that the washer has totally "collapsed"...that's it. Careful: the cylinder head is aluminum! Also, PearlTurbo did not mention anti-seize, I recommend a dab of it on the plug threads...
@@jwsnyder5021 Thanks for the reply, I specifically did not mention anti-seize because NGK specifically says not to use it on their website... Here's the article: ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs#:~:text=Thread%20breakage%20can%20sometimes%20involve,unnecessary%20and%20can%20be%20detrimental.
I didn't use any on mine and it's definitely not a requirement, but if you have or want to use some it's not a bad idea! It's cheap and easy to use so it's probably a good idea to keep some on hand.
This is the second video I watched on this topic, and neither one said to use spark plug grease on the tip of the boot that comes in contact with the top of the spark plug
excuse me, great explanation video! I also have a question, I have been trying to find out the torque needed for the spark plugs for my Mazda 3 2021 turbo sedan, the same color as yours actually. I have looked on the owner's manual and online and I could not find the specification for the torque needed, where did you find it? Thank you!
The bolt on the heat shield is not coming off, it’s in there very sturdy. If i try to torque it too hard to remove the bolt it starts actually bending the bracket instead. I don’t want to break anything. Any idea of how to get this off smoothly?
This one: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-ft-lbs-to-100-ft-lbs-3-8-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H3DTWA-03/316924567?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-MB-HUSKY_3350-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK685842200-NA-NBR-3350-NA-NA-NA&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-MB-HUSKY_3350-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK685842200-NA-NBR-3350-NA-NA-NA-71700000113751401--&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlb15OYex3xNtSPPz_Eim08IwS9BqQe-VKlOKoV-RSyW0G7u1ghq3-VBoClesQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Yes. Dunno why he's using SAE measurements. The bolts are 8mm & 10mm, the plugs are 14mm, and the torque is 15-20Nm or 12-14 ft-lbs. Use the middle torque value so it's within error of your wrench's calibration.
@@Omnis2 Appreciate it. I got the NGK OE 90288 at Rock Auto and noticed on the site is says "Pre-Set Gap: 0.030" - and am wondering if that's correct for this power plan. Are they supposed to be 0.030" or 0.040"? Thanks.
@@davidgot86 Is that 0.05 a huge difference, enough to change them out? Bought them at Rock Auto and it was listed under the 2023 2.5T as a direct oem replacement outside of the ones branded with the Mazda logo?
Years ago, a mechanic showed me a k&n filter in the dark with a flashlight. He said if you can see the light through it, dust will go through it. Sure it will flow more air, but if you want your car to last, don’t use them.
While I'm sure you're probably right, most of these (if they're properly maintained, clean and oiled) will do a good job at preventing debris from entering the engine. Mazda doesn't void the factory warranty for a high quality aftermarket intake so that has to say something.
@@Unsheltered_Raptor Think about it. Why does a filter need oil? They are hoping the fine particles don’t get thru, might stick to oil. Everything is a trade off. Better flow vs engine longevity. I’m so impressed with my first mazda, just got a 22 cx-5 turbo w 30 k on it. Its’s that gorgeous red. Soon I will need to change the plugs and this excellent video shows how. I’m a biker but this is just as fun to drive as my goldwing. My last car was 27 years old, a Toyota Avalon. This is truly a fun to drive vehicle.
URGENT ‼️ I am not able to insert 4th pipe(from left) in right now. It does not sit properly no matter what . I tired 100 times and it’s not sitting. Please help !
Anyone else’s Mazda running poorly after replacing spark plugs? I’m stressing. Don’t want to go to the dealer. I’m pretty sure it could be a cpu issue since I unplugged the battery.
Which plugs did you use? First thing I’d do is make sure all of the coils are seated correctly on the plugs, then disconnect the battery for like 10 minutes and try again.
@@enrikefranco8725 that’s my best guess too. As long as they’re the right plugs and everything is connected properly it should be good to go! Lemme know if I can help in anyway.
@@Unsheltered_Raptor got you. So do all that and then disconnect the battery right? Or should I disconnect it prior to removing/reattaching the coils? Thanks
@@enrikefranco8725 probably a good idea to disconnect it first, that way it can reset while you’re adjusting the coils. Also reduces any risk of getting shocked by any electrical components
This is so easy to do, I'm disappointed in myself that I chickened out and had the dealership do it the first time. I'll do it myself from now on. Thanks for the video!
Glad it helped! It can certainly be nerve racking working on a new car if you don’t have clear instructions!
Nice vid! At which miles did they ask you to change the spark plugs?
Great video! FIY to anyone working on a 2021 Mazda3 turbo. They have an extra 8mm bolt on the plate and an extra 10mm bolt on the heat shield. Found that out when doing my plugs yesterday.
Yup, I was confused at first. Also, I don’t know if the clearance is different on the ‘22+, but I was really struggling trying to seat the rightmost coil pack because of the hoses on my ‘21. The hose bracket is attached with two more 8mm bolts and I instantly got the coil pack in after I removed them
@@VECTlONI was in the middle of this on my 21 and just didn’t have the clearance until I read your comment and removed those two bolts on the bracket. Great comment.
Excellent video. Dealership quoted me $350, so I appreciate you taking the initiative on creating and submitting this video! Now I can put that money towards other mods!
Thanks for watching! Happy I could help.
They quoted me 650!!! While the parts are only 140 for a set of spark plugs from them
Sweet tutorial! Can't wait for more.
Not removing the hose at the end puts you at the risk of cross thread on coil packs bolt due to mis angle. Also prevents the coil pack from engaging the spark plug all the way.
You're probably right, but there is enough room to get the coil and the bolt on straight, it's just a little tough to hold the hose and put the coil on at the same time.
I just replaced mine at 62k miles. Still running perfectly fine, no problems. A mechanic buddy of mine said plugs can easily go 75-100k miles and he asked me why I was doing it. The dealer was bugging me each time I went in so I just wanted to get them off my back. They quoted me $414 but I did it myself for $80. I will add that you should check the gap. Yes the plugs come pre-gapped but they could’ve been bumped in shipping. Mine ranged from .036-.040. Original plugs were gapped a lot tighter: .020-.026
I learned that on our cars(mazda3 turbo) it’s important to do our spark plugs every 40k miles because ours technically wear twice as fast. This is because of something mazda implemented called “Spark Controlled Compression Ignition”. This is part of the cars knock avoidance system.
@@Ali-sh4ib I am at 52200 on my CX5 turbo, and am doing my plugs this weekend.
great video!
Thank you!
Great video/tutorial. I have 2019 hatch NA, my question is can i replace the spark plug without using a torque wrench? TIA.
Thank you! I'd always recommend using a torque wrench when you can. That being said there are some people on the internet that swear by getting them hand tight and then tightening another half turn. You can pick up a torque wrench for fairly cheap though and certainly cheaper than if you were to have a dealer install these for you.
Yes you can...as you tighten the plug, you will feel the plug's washer touch the cylinder head, continue to slowly tighten until you feel that the washer has totally "collapsed"...that's it. Careful: the cylinder head is aluminum! Also, PearlTurbo did not mention anti-seize, I recommend a dab of it on the plug threads...
@@jwsnyder5021 Thanks for the reply, I specifically did not mention anti-seize because NGK specifically says not to use it on their website... Here's the article:
ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs#:~:text=Thread%20breakage%20can%20sometimes%20involve,unnecessary%20and%20can%20be%20detrimental.
thanks a lot !! really appreciated video!
Thanks for watching, happy I could help!
Do you recommend having some dielectric grease or just skip it all together?
I didn't use any on mine and it's definitely not a requirement, but if you have or want to use some it's not a bad idea! It's cheap and easy to use so it's probably a good idea to keep some on hand.
This is the second video I watched on this topic, and neither one said to use spark plug grease on the tip of the boot that comes in contact with the top of the spark plug
@@chrisjarkovsky1655 NGK specifically says not to use grease..
@Unsheltered_Raptor didn't know that. I've always used it on any spark plug job that I did
Great tutorial 🤙🏼
Thanks! Hope it helps!
excuse me, great explanation video! I also have a question, I have been trying to find out the torque needed for the spark plugs for my Mazda 3 2021 turbo sedan, the same color as yours actually. I have looked on the owner's manual and online and I could not find the specification for the torque needed, where did you find it? Thank you!
I honestly found it from someone who posted it in the Mazda 3 Turbo Facebook page lol
14lbs was sweet spot for me. no problems. engine is very sensitive to improper torque lbs.
What intake you got on your car? Just change my plugs to a one step colder spark plug for a tune my tuner gave me. It’s some GTR spark plugs NGK 93026
It’s the Burger Tuning stage 1 intake that I had powder coated. A step colder is definitely a good idea
Greetings , would anyone be able to help me , so I have the exact same car so 4th gen BP , but mine is the EU skyactiv X do I torque the same amount ?
It should be the same amount!
@PearlTurbo3 appreciate it thank you
The bolt on the heat shield is not coming off, it’s in there very sturdy. If i try to torque it too hard to remove the bolt it starts actually bending the bracket instead. I don’t want to break anything. Any idea of how to get this off smoothly?
My best advice would be to get some WD-40 or PB-Blaster and let that bolt soak for a bit. Some heat might loosen it up as well.
What torque wrench you using?
This one:
www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-ft-lbs-to-100-ft-lbs-3-8-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H3DTWA-03/316924567?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-MB-HUSKY_3350-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK685842200-NA-NBR-3350-NA-NA-NA&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-MB-HUSKY_3350-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK685842200-NA-NBR-3350-NA-NA-NA-71700000113751401--&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlb15OYex3xNtSPPz_Eim08IwS9BqQe-VKlOKoV-RSyW0G7u1ghq3-VBoClesQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@Unsheltered_Raptor How did you torque it to 14 ft-lbs if the range for this wrench is 20-100?
Will a 14mm work inatead for the plugs?
Yes. Dunno why he's using SAE measurements. The bolts are 8mm & 10mm, the plugs are 14mm, and the torque is 15-20Nm or 12-14 ft-lbs. Use the middle torque value so it's within error of your wrench's calibration.
@@Omnis2 Appreciate it. I got the NGK OE 90288 at Rock Auto and noticed on the site is says "Pre-Set Gap: 0.030" - and am wondering if that's correct for this power plan. Are they supposed to be 0.030" or 0.040"?
Thanks.
@@DavidTMSN Dealer's gap is around 0.25" in Turbo
@@davidgot86 Is that 0.05 a huge difference, enough to change them out?
Bought them at Rock Auto and it was listed under the 2023 2.5T as a direct oem replacement outside of the ones branded with the Mazda logo?
Years ago, a mechanic showed me a k&n filter in the dark with a flashlight. He said if you can see the light through it, dust will go through it. Sure it will flow more air, but if you want your car to last, don’t use them.
While I'm sure you're probably right, most of these (if they're properly maintained, clean and oiled) will do a good job at preventing debris from entering the engine. Mazda doesn't void the factory warranty for a high quality aftermarket intake so that has to say something.
@@Unsheltered_Raptor Think about it. Why does a filter need oil? They are hoping the fine particles don’t get thru, might stick to oil. Everything is a trade off. Better flow vs engine longevity. I’m so impressed with my first mazda, just got a 22 cx-5 turbo w 30 k on it. Its’s that gorgeous red. Soon I will need to change the plugs and this excellent video shows how. I’m a biker but this is just as fun to drive as my goldwing. My last car was 27 years old, a Toyota Avalon. This is truly a fun to drive vehicle.
URGENT ‼️ I am not able to insert 4th pipe(from left) in right now. It does not sit properly no matter what . I tired 100 times and it’s not sitting. Please help !
🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thanks!
Odd that Mazda wouldn't use all metric?
Maybe a carry over from it's Ford origins?
Anyone else’s Mazda running poorly after replacing spark plugs? I’m stressing. Don’t want to go to the dealer. I’m pretty sure it could be a cpu issue since I unplugged the battery.
Which plugs did you use? First thing I’d do is make sure all of the coils are seated correctly on the plugs, then disconnect the battery for like 10 minutes and try again.
@@Unsheltered_Raptor thanks. I’ll have to remove the coils again and replace them back. That has to be it.
@@enrikefranco8725 that’s my best guess too. As long as they’re the right plugs and everything is connected properly it should be good to go! Lemme know if I can help in anyway.
@@Unsheltered_Raptor got you. So do all that and then disconnect the battery right? Or should I disconnect it prior to removing/reattaching the coils? Thanks
@@enrikefranco8725 probably a good idea to disconnect it first, that way it can reset while you’re adjusting the coils. Also reduces any risk of getting shocked by any electrical components