Awesome video and explanatioin, thanks Alex. I'm doing the full RockAuto 'brembo' upgrade to my 2020 WRX. Essentially its all 2017 STI brakes; calipers, rotors, upgraded pads, SS lines, and a fluid flush. My question is, should I flush the brakes last? First? I plan to upgrading also to DOT4 RBF600 from Motul as the car does see some track time. Thanks!
Glad you found the video helpful 👍. I would flush the brakes last. You'll have to fill your reservoir with new fluid anyway to fill the new brake lines. Doing it last will also make it easier to know when you're done. Once you start seeing that clean fluid coming out you know you're done. And tbh, unless the car has a ton of miles with the original brake fluid, it shouldn't be that dirty, so it should be fine to flush through the new lines. Good luck!
Hmm, yea I looked it up. It looks like it has something to do with the ABS system in Subaru's. I did the brake flush in the traditional way. Haven't had any issues. I think the most important thing is that your flush out all of the old fluid.
Nooooooo! Don't use this video as an example of how to breed the brake system...4 or 5 things that you should never do... 1) Loop the tube above the bleed nipple to eliminate any air recirculating back into the caliper 2) use the ring end of the spanner... using the open end allows the possibility of rounding the bleed nipple... 3) Suck out the brake reservoir prior to bleeding the brakes... This makes the bleeding process quicker as you're not pumping old fluid through the master cylinder. 4) When the looped tube is attached and the bleed nipple is open, only pump the brake halfway down... Don't pump the foot pedal down all the way...Pushing the pedal all the way will cause the seals to travel into an area of the master cylinder that under normal driving conditions never gets touched... This may damage the seal surface... 5) Most importantly. Never under any condition push the caliper pistons back into the housing when changing brake pads without first opening the Bleed nipple and looping the tube... With a pair of brake clamps or Vice grips put pressure onto the rubber brake hose... Fluid should never travel back up through the ABS module... 6) Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so in humid locations or under heavy braking conditions it's best to change every 2-3 years... If you do a lot of highway Ks and little braking it is a time period rather than Mile's or KM distance requirement... Professional underbody mechanic speaking, not a novice...
Regarding your point 1, what exactly is the issue? Points 2 and 3 I agree, I just used the open ended portion of the wrench because it was easier and my bleeder valves were in good condition, a 6 pointed wrench would have been ideal. I didn't have anything to suck out the old fluid when I made the video so I left it as is. Didn't take that long. Regarding your point 4, I should have specified but we didn't push the pedal all the way down to the floor. Regarding your point 5, good to note. Most people do brake jobs by just opening the cap on the brake reservoir and pushing in the brake pistons. I have done numerous brake jobs throughout the years, on old cars, new cars, different makes and models, never had an issue but good to note. Regarding point 6, good to note. The manual for these cars says every 30k miles or 3 years I believe. I do mostly highway driving and don't put that many miles so my fluid wasn't as bad as I expected it to be.
@@alexs_wrex point 1) when looping the tube the air can't travel back up the line as the loop limits the fluid travel. Kinda like an fluid block. 5) regarding the ABS system there are little valves that open n close depending on wheel lock up etc... If a wheel locks up, that isolated line valve opens, releasing the fluid pressure so the wheel is free to rotate etc. By pushing fluid back up the line as you push the caliper piston into the casting, theres a chance of disturbing the seating surface of the ABS module valve in the line. Remembering the brake works on pressure, so if a valve doesn't seal correctly in the ABS module you won't have a sealed circuit but an open system where fluid bypasses the line to the caliper. 4) By sucking out the old fluid prior means A) you don't need to pump the pedal to remove all old fluid. (Start at the nearest wheel to master cylinder 1st). B) you're wanting to remove the old fluid from the system, why push it through the line, when theres 3 or 4 means of suckkng out the fluid and sediment in the bottom of the reservoir.
@@DankyDre420 don't worry if it hasn't affected your brake pedal... We were doing 20+ brake jobs a week, so the chances of issues increased, so it was a precaution rather than a greater issue. All depends on the age and condition of said fluid.
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Doing this on my 2017 this Thursday. Grateful for this content - thank you!
Glad the video was helpful! 👍
good point with keeping that tube at the bottem to prevent air,
last video I watched didnt mention that, probably saved me a headache there
Yea last thing you want is air in your lines. Good luck!
Awesome video and explanatioin, thanks Alex.
I'm doing the full RockAuto 'brembo' upgrade to my 2020 WRX. Essentially its all 2017 STI brakes; calipers, rotors, upgraded pads, SS lines, and a fluid flush. My question is, should I flush the brakes last? First? I plan to upgrading also to DOT4 RBF600 from Motul as the car does see some track time. Thanks!
Glad you found the video helpful 👍.
I would flush the brakes last. You'll have to fill your reservoir with new fluid anyway to fill the new brake lines. Doing it last will also make it easier to know when you're done. Once you start seeing that clean fluid coming out you know you're done.
And tbh, unless the car has a ton of miles with the original brake fluid, it shouldn't be that dirty, so it should be fine to flush through the new lines. Good luck!
Quality content and good tips throughout, much appreciated
Thanks! Glad you found the video helpful!
Really helpful, thanks for making this my dude
Glad you found the video helpful!
At what mileage do l need to do this?
Subaru recommends doing this every 30k miles.
Actually on subarus the sequence is different no idea why but look it up its confirmed
Hmm, yea I looked it up. It looks like it has something to do with the ABS system in Subaru's. I did the brake flush in the traditional way. Haven't had any issues. I think the most important thing is that your flush out all of the old fluid.
Looked it up it's RF, LF, LR, RR. Not exactly sure why subaru recommends that order.
Yup ford is the other way around , good to note for the subie 🤙
wait, wait, how many wheels are on that car?
Lol, only 4 but I was switching out my summer wheels for my winter wheels when I took this video.
Nooooooo! Don't use this video as an example of how to breed the brake system...4 or 5 things that you should never do...
1) Loop the tube above the bleed nipple to eliminate any air recirculating back into the caliper
2) use the ring end of the spanner... using the open end allows the possibility of rounding the bleed nipple...
3) Suck out the brake reservoir prior to bleeding the brakes... This makes the bleeding process quicker as you're not pumping old fluid through the master cylinder.
4) When the looped tube is attached and the bleed nipple is open, only pump the brake halfway down... Don't pump the foot pedal down all the way...Pushing the pedal all the way will cause the seals to travel into an area of the master cylinder that under normal driving conditions never gets touched... This may damage the seal surface...
5) Most importantly. Never under any condition push the caliper pistons back into the housing when changing brake pads without first opening the Bleed nipple and looping the tube... With a pair of brake clamps or Vice grips put pressure onto the rubber brake hose... Fluid should never travel back up through the ABS module...
6) Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so in humid locations or under heavy braking conditions it's best to change every 2-3 years... If you do a lot of highway Ks and little braking it is a time period rather than Mile's or KM distance requirement...
Professional underbody mechanic speaking, not a novice...
Regarding your point 1, what exactly is the issue?
Points 2 and 3 I agree, I just used the open ended portion of the wrench because it was easier and my bleeder valves were in good condition, a 6 pointed wrench would have been ideal. I didn't have anything to suck out the old fluid when I made the video so I left it as is. Didn't take that long.
Regarding your point 4, I should have specified but we didn't push the pedal all the way down to the floor.
Regarding your point 5, good to note. Most people do brake jobs by just opening the cap on the brake reservoir and pushing in the brake pistons. I have done numerous brake jobs throughout the years, on old cars, new cars, different makes and models, never had an issue but good to note.
Regarding point 6, good to note. The manual for these cars says every 30k miles or 3 years I believe. I do mostly highway driving and don't put that many miles so my fluid wasn't as bad as I expected it to be.
@@alexs_wrex point 1) when looping the tube the air can't travel back up the line as the loop limits the fluid travel. Kinda like an fluid block.
5) regarding the ABS system there are little valves that open n close depending on wheel lock up etc... If a wheel locks up, that isolated line valve opens, releasing the fluid pressure so the wheel is free to rotate etc. By pushing fluid back up the line as you push the caliper piston into the casting, theres a chance of disturbing the seating surface of the ABS module valve in the line. Remembering the brake works on pressure, so if a valve doesn't seal correctly in the ABS module you won't have a sealed circuit but an open system where fluid bypasses the line to the caliper.
4) By sucking out the old fluid prior means A) you don't need to pump the pedal to remove all old fluid. (Start at the nearest wheel to master cylinder 1st).
B) you're wanting to remove the old fluid from the system, why push it through the line, when theres 3 or 4 means of suckkng out the fluid and sediment in the bottom of the reservoir.
I just did mine and stepped on the brake all the way down 😣 how do I know if I caused any damage
@@DankyDre420 don't worry if it hasn't affected your brake pedal... We were doing 20+ brake jobs a week, so the chances of issues increased, so it was a precaution rather than a greater issue. All depends on the age and condition of said fluid.