Ummm you didnt even do this correctly. Your too weak with no upper body strength to fix it properly. You need a man. Lol You need two part epoxy in a needle applicator and you squirt it in there and then use a pole like a broomstick handle to poke the spot flat. You must have a small area of impact (point of impact small) to make the apot lay flat. It naturally doesnt want to go down and that is why it is bowing up. Heat it with a heat gun first very carefully and then squirt a two part epoxy like the jb weld in the two bottles that is about $21.99 at home depot. Its pricey but the container is big and you get like 8 or 10 ounces in each bottle. Mix it up on a thin piece of card board and pour it in the cut ypu made or use a needle or a baby medicine dropper from cvs or a pet store. Then put a small pice of duct tape over the laminate and then a metal square the size of the tape that is thick wnough to not bend when applying pressure. It should be the size of the crack but just a little bit bigger by a half inch. Put the broom handle onto the metal square or even a piece of thin wood if that is all you have but it cant bend. Then put your hands on top of the broomstick handle and pull it down onto the ground onto the metal and squish the seam down while it is still warm and the epoxy wet. The duct tape will prevent the epoxy from leaking upwards onto the floor surface and the laminate is heated so it will form and cool flat with the pressure as long as you reallly smash hard. Remember the more pressure the better. You can even use the broomstick alone and just poke it with the tape on the flooring but be careful not to make an indention because after you heat the vinyl the cheaper stuff is liable to make a divet especially if you heat it a lot. There is an art to doing this and it all depends on what is under the laminate, aome people have moisture barrier and some dont. Some people have plain wood or concrete or subfloor that is plywood. You need to judge it but mostly you use epoxy and heat and then pressure at the same time while letting the epoxy cure and the laminate cool and then you take the pressure off after five or ten minutes and remove the tape. Any residual tape left over and atuck with epoxy gets peeled and scraped and wiped with a goof off product then soapy water quick as to not let the chemical start to break down the laminates finish. As i said there is an art to it. I have laminate that has been in my homw for 25 years since plank laminate was invented. The original sticky plank stuff. Thin too. I often have to use a heat gun gently to heat up the plank corners where they are coming up and i uae a 5 in one scraper to pull up the corners and edges then goof off to clean the surfaces of the sticky parts of the laminate plank where the tabs stick out underneath the next planks underside. I then scrub the dirt and crap that has inevitably stuck to the sticky tabs because it has been coming apart for some time and dog peed on it and dirt accumulates and so on... Then after scrubbing it vlean while its heated and bent a bit from the heat gun, which is the only way to really lift them safley, i then apply a good loctite superglue gel or even an epoxy if i want but gel superglue is fine. Then i smash it down while it is glued and still warm and i tape it up and stand on the seam for like a minute or two until the seam and glue bond. The glue dries, the seam and plank edge get cool and form straight and then i peel off the tape and anything left of the tape and glue comes up with a very very lightly applued goof off on a paper towel but just a small small pinch of papertowel soaked in good off and then immediately wipe off with soapy water rag and scrub so the goof off doesnt go crazy and break down the laminates coating or anything crazy. Like i said there is an art to this and once you are a seasoned pro at redoing your floors you will be amazed how quickly you can fix them. Feom start to finish is like 10 minutes for me to fix a bad seam now and they stay like that forevwr better than the original install. I have had to do it on the rental units i have and the bathrooms and kitchens and the bedrooms and living rooms and even my own home the kitchen and two bedrooms have it and they are both from 2006 and get peed on like clockwork each morning and i start my morning with the smell of boston terrier urine and bleach at 500am. Every morning in the same spot. I put a pee pad thwre and the monster goes on the giant designer rug in the middle of the tile floor. Hmmmmmm😂
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bzivN4KDg-k/mqdefault.jpg)
Looks the same, but now is completely unrepairable.
Now you have a glued bubble.
"Now that my slit is open.."
Oh my..
😂😂
Looks the same, lol.
But it’s not fixed…
This is no good. Don’t do this people
starbond.com/?rfsn=6950941.50443a&.50443a
Use code JCVINTAGE10 for 10% off your order
Looks worse lol
😂
Looks like sht
mmmm.........k...
Ummm you didnt even do this correctly. Your too weak with no upper body strength to fix it properly. You need a man. Lol
You need two part epoxy in a needle applicator and you squirt it in there and then use a pole like a broomstick handle to poke the spot flat. You must have a small area of impact (point of impact small) to make the apot lay flat. It naturally doesnt want to go down and that is why it is bowing up. Heat it with a heat gun first very carefully and then squirt a two part epoxy like the jb weld in the two bottles that is about $21.99 at home depot. Its pricey but the container is big and you get like 8 or 10 ounces in each bottle. Mix it up on a thin piece of card board and pour it in the cut ypu made or use a needle or a baby medicine dropper from cvs or a pet store. Then put a small pice of duct tape over the laminate and then a metal square the size of the tape that is thick wnough to not bend when applying pressure. It should be the size of the crack but just a little bit bigger by a half inch. Put the broom handle onto the metal square or even a piece of thin wood if that is all you have but it cant bend. Then put your hands on top of the broomstick handle and pull it down onto the ground onto the metal and squish the seam down while it is still warm and the epoxy wet. The duct tape will prevent the epoxy from leaking upwards onto the floor surface and the laminate is heated so it will form and cool flat with the pressure as long as you reallly smash hard. Remember the more pressure the better. You can even use the broomstick alone and just poke it with the tape on the flooring but be careful not to make an indention because after you heat the vinyl the cheaper stuff is liable to make a divet especially if you heat it a lot. There is an art to doing this and it all depends on what is under the laminate, aome people have moisture barrier and some dont. Some people have plain wood or concrete or subfloor that is plywood. You need to judge it but mostly you use epoxy and heat and then pressure at the same time while letting the epoxy cure and the laminate cool and then you take the pressure off after five or ten minutes and remove the tape. Any residual tape left over and atuck with epoxy gets peeled and scraped and wiped with a goof off product then soapy water quick as to not let the chemical start to break down the laminates finish. As i said there is an art to it. I have laminate that has been in my homw for 25 years since plank laminate was invented. The original sticky plank stuff. Thin too. I often have to use a heat gun gently to heat up the plank corners where they are coming up and i uae a 5 in one scraper to pull up the corners and edges then goof off to clean the surfaces of the sticky parts of the laminate plank where the tabs stick out underneath the next planks underside. I then scrub the dirt and crap that has inevitably stuck to the sticky tabs because it has been coming apart for some time and dog peed on it and dirt accumulates and so on...
Then after scrubbing it vlean while its heated and bent a bit from the heat gun, which is the only way to really lift them safley, i then apply a good loctite superglue gel or even an epoxy if i want but gel superglue is fine. Then i smash it down while it is glued and still warm and i tape it up and stand on the seam for like a minute or two until the seam and glue bond. The glue dries, the seam and plank edge get cool and form straight and then i peel off the tape and anything left of the tape and glue comes up with a very very lightly applued goof off on a paper towel but just a small small pinch of papertowel soaked in good off and then immediately wipe off with soapy water rag and scrub so the goof off doesnt go crazy and break down the laminates coating or anything crazy.
Like i said there is an art to this and once you are a seasoned pro at redoing your floors you will be amazed how quickly you can fix them. Feom start to finish is like 10 minutes for me to fix a bad seam now and they stay like that forevwr better than the original install. I have had to do it on the rental units i have and the bathrooms and kitchens and the bedrooms and living rooms and even my own home the kitchen and two bedrooms have it and they are both from 2006 and get peed on like clockwork each morning and i start my morning with the smell of boston terrier urine and bleach at 500am. Every morning in the same spot. I put a pee pad thwre and the monster goes on the giant designer rug in the middle of the tile floor. Hmmmmmm😂
Women ☕️