Beginner Wood Filling Mistakes | How to Fill Cracks and Gaps
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2024
- Wood has defects, it's something we just have to learn how to deal with as woodworkers. Fortunately, there are quite a few fantastic products out there that make it super easy! BUT if you use the wrong one for the wrong purpose... you can regret it later. Here's an easy guide to always know how to fill wood voids!
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This is the most thorough explanation I've seen of void filling solutions. I have a heavily checked piece that I want to have a natural look but I also have a 5 year old who will inevitably spill things on it so I've been struggling to find a good solution.
I want to thank you, and everybody out there who do these videos.
I think you're brave, with a type of confidence I could never ever ascend to.
I have never once been disappointed❤
Thanks!
Anything is possible. You too could ascend to this level of confidence. It will take practice. There will be failures. But remember, YCMT2 didn't start at the top, no one does. He worked his way there. As we all can. I know from experience.
Love the “realness” in your vids!! Thank you for being yourself!!
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for sharing. I enjoy all your videos. I've tried mixing the matching sawdust with the finish I'll be using first then mixing it with the either CA or PVA glue. Not sure if this would work with all stains or finishes but it color matches better. It does act like endgrain which ends of darker if your patching over edge or face grain but still closer than having a pale patch or line. Also I have added slivers of wood and sanded them down which works better if you have a linear gap. Even if it's not perfectly linear I've added a tiny sliver and then the sawdust mixture around it. Looks more random like it was just part of the natural wood variation.
Ah true, I should've mentioned patching. Little more time consuming, but solid results.
I never knew there were glues that were anything other than clear! Cheers, you just earned my sub.
Thanks!
Fun to watch. I like the way the video was cut, too. Found it entertaining, engaging, and the goofy yet clever humor is perfect for me personally. Freshly subscribed. Great work
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@YouCanMakeThisToo lol i didn't like the cut at all....tbh i stopped watching it because of the over-editing. there is no need for that in this type of video. good info, chill way of transmitting it, agressive cutting of shots. i just couldn't concentrate on the info because my attention was broken every 3 seconds with a sharp change. it's not a short
@@mikesthoughts7161 yes, jump cuts are totally distracting. cut them down 90% ok.
A lot of valuable information packed into a short video. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I love this series of videos restoring "The Free" Thanks a lot!!!
Thanks for watching
Learned a lot. Love the editing. Going to incorporate some of it into my Brides videos.
Thanks for sharing these great tips and tricks!!!
Thanks for making great products and engaging!
Just what I needed to know and when I need to know it! Thanks so much my friend👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Perfect, glad it was here for you!
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the detailed descriptions! Do you have a recommendations with filling small and large gaps in redwood? I was planning on using Odies Oil for the finish and would like to keep the natural look.
That could be VERY challenging depending on how big the gaps, seems or cracks are. Best bet would probably be the sawdust/glue method
Loved the video.
You deserve more followers.
Thanks for the advice!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video.Lots of good ways to fill those cracks and gaps. Have you ever tried Laquer and Wood dust. I used to sand hardwood floors and we would use the dust from whatever floor ( Oak, Maple, Pine etc... ) and mix with a gallon of Laquer. And apply with a Putty Knife or Trowel. Depending on how many cracks. Not as durable as Epoxy for sure. But it did the job. Thank you for the video.
I haven’t tried saw dust and lacquer. Honestly don’t use lacquer very much
What kind/Brand of Laquer do you use?
@@dunedainmom That was a long time ago, But I believe it was Minwax. Not for sure though.
Thanks!!
Great overview of the different alternatives! Cheers!
Thanks!
Thank you. Very informative and very well prepared.
This is very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Good content. Camera effects and retakes are engaging and fun. Keeps interest and adds some humor...Good Job!
Thanks!
What a good tutorial thanks!!
You're welcome!
Love the out take method really fun
THanks!
Thank you for bringing up the glue and saw dust method. I have always hated this method, for the reasons you brought up. The only time I would use this method is when the surface will be painted, in which case, I'd prefer using Bondo as a filler. I have done this many times. No problems.
Great tip!
what is a good filler for live edge table with similar long cracks as shown in video? I am looking for a filler where I do not need to sand and stain after, because it's a big slab of dining table, and only a small area has started to show cracks.
Excellent information here. Thank You!
Very informative and lively presentation! Can you please advise how to fix a mistake using eopxy resin in various depth cracks in cedar? I had high hopes; it looked great until it settled. I let it sit for over 2 weeks and when I started sanding/vacuuming the sawdust, drops of liquid resin emerged and the sandpaper (220) scratched the resin so it now looks cloudy. Any advice?
Epoxy Resin PRO Tips!
th-cam.com/video/jKCGwD_eHag/w-d-xo.html
Sounds like you mixed improperly.. the video above I did will help with that.
Also the cloudiness is normally. Epoxy needs to get sanded to at least 400 and then hit with a buffing compound
I used to think CA glue sensitivity/allergy is nonsense. But after developing my own CA glue sensitivity i know it is not a myth. if i catch one whiff, I will have cold like symptoms within 2 days for a day or more. Very sore nose and sneezing. take care everybody. Maybe 10 years ago I made a crazy mistake and used CA glue as a grain sealer/filler on a whole guitar body. Since then, i have this CA glue allergy/sensitivity. Great video, so much information, thanks.
That really sucks. Sorry to hear you developed a sensitivity. It’s definitely a real thing
thank you for the amazing video!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I subbed thus video of the homie personality alone. Learning new things today about carpentry.
Haha thanks! Glad you learned too
Thanks for the great information.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Save for future reference Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Hope you can help. I have a Bubinga wood staircase that I need filling the little holes/gouges in many places. Going with Pure tung oil finish (planning 5 coats sanding in between). Looking for that clear look so I get the rich grains from the Bubinga wood. What filler do you recommend that will match the deep brown/red tones of the Bubinga wood?
Needing advice - have a light coloured unsealed door - probably ablonde oak is the closest. It's developed some weather cracking since installation due to shrinkage?. I wanted to just keep it same colour but varnished/gloss. Any recommendations on how to deal with the cracking and still keep a varnished/gloss finish? (i.e. no painting and no darking staining?). Or am I doomed?
Hi Caleb, this video was helpful... I'm getting ready to sand and refinish a 140+ year old pine floor, but the surface is badly splintered in several places. Do you a suggestion on which on e of these techniques would work best on a pine floor? I won't be staining the floor, I like the o'naturale look. Thanks! @youcanmakethistoo
For splintering you probably wanna epoxy or glue the splinters down before sanding. Or you can cut the splinters out and use wood filler or patch with real wood.
There are several ways in which this might be a dumb question, but could you stain some scrap (preferably from the project), sand it (rinse, repeat, until you have enough) then use _that_ sawdust mixed with glue to get at least a _similar_ look to the surrounding stained wood?
Also, if you need to do a more structural fill but don't love the look of epoxy, could you fill with epoxy resin just bit shallower than the void itself, then fill the remaining space with something like a sawdust/glue mix to visually cover the look of the epoxy?
Apologies for any terminological mishaps -- I typically only work on projects for myself, and I don't really ever have to talk out loud (type out loud?) about what I'm doing/thinking about doing.
Use hide glue or fish glue. It stains fine. Only pva and super glues don't stain. Aot if TH-camrs sleep on hide glue but that was glue for a thousand years before the plastics.
Also the best wood filler is Goodfilla. It's not even close.
Fish glue is actually the strongest wood glue it's just also the most expensive. Homemade hide glue is around the same as pva wood glue which is basically no different than school glue just juiced up some. Hide glue is better priced than fish but nothing is as cheap as pva glue. There is some minor prep work. Basically need and electric warmer for hide glue. But all hide glues save so much time in cleanup compared to pva glue. Plus it sticks to itself so better for repairs.
Like most things in the modern world pva is just the cheap mass produced crap.
No. The glue is the enemy. It prohibits any stain from giving you a uniform color. Also, staining the wood first, then sanding it wouldn't help either. You're just removing the stain while sanding.
What would you recommend for repairing a split in a fairly thin wood front door panel? I believe the door is oak and at least one side will be restained. It seems like everything I would use would ooze out the other side.
Great useful tips 👍👍
Thanks!
Hi. Thanks for making this very informative video! I would love some advice from you just to make sure that I do not mess up my project... I have been refinishing my kitchen cabinet doors- they have solid maple stiles/rails with a plywood maple veneered central panel. I just discovered a big gouge in the back side of the kitchen cabinet door- this gouge is under the top rail and runs horizontally about 6 inches or so. These kitchen cabinet doors were never stained so I had to strip off the chipping poly with a chemical stripper, sand the doors (both steps done!) and have to now apply the poly top coat. I will be using the Arm R Seal (Satin) top coat (oil based poly). How do you suggest i fill in that gouge? Wish i could upload a pic here. Thanks.
This was a really good video, I would love to see a video on making a mould - my next project involves refinishing a Victorian 10 ft mahogany dining table. The previous owner's dogs chewed a small piece off of the scalloped edge so I think I will have to fill a mould with epoxy resin and attach it to the edge (somehow). I'm okay on the finishing but I think it will be tough for the mould piece to stay attached... do you ever use dowels?
I'm not a fan of dowels. They're tedious and need perfect alignment if you're using more than one. I'd use a thickened epoxy like FixWood from total boat
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Thanks!
good presentation. I have a house front door with some termites holes what can I used to patch it with?
Depending on how much sun it gets you may want to use something with UV inhibitors
Thanks Caleb for this great video. I made a table top with planks. I filled the small gap with wood glue and wood sand. But after a couple of days the gap where the filler is cracked again. How can I stop it from cracking after applying the wood filler??
Any tip would be much appreciated
Either the wood isn’t dry or hadn’t acclimated to the environment.. in which case it’s gonna keep cracking until it settles. Or, the filler just cracked as it dried and shrunk. Do it again and should be fine
I have used Lepages Plastic Wood and seems to work well. Just need to be sure not to over do the amount used and give it good time to set/dry.
I’ll have to check that out, haven’t heard of it before
Not sure you’ll see this since the video is a few months old, but I have a coffee table that I bought from someone who had painted it already. The paint is now peeling off so I want to try my hand at refurbishing. The table has two large cutout designs in it, which resulted in gaps that catch all the crumbs and crap from three kids. I’m wondering if the glue option would work best for this after sanding, if I plan to repaint anyway. Does that make sense? Any thoughts or advice? Thank you! Helpful, informative video!
I use Bondo if it’s getting painted. That’s pretty much everybody’s go to for paint grade.
Thank you! Although not sure we get all those products here in South Africa….
Ah true, probably not.
This show is great!!
Thank you!
could you pre stain some scrap wood from the projext for the saw dust you use with the glue?
Stain doesn't penetrate deep so you'd pretty quickly sand right through it and just have dust. If it's critical.. make a wood patch, or just use something like Timbermate.
What was the color and the brand you mixed the polyester resin with?
My husband just put in a butcher block countertop and splintered some of the edges where my sink went in. He filled in the splintered areas, some were fairly deep, with wood filler and applied mineral oil. It looks like several of the pieces are trying to lift. I am at a loss on what I need to do as I am afraid of any areas getting wet and ruining my new countertop. Any suggestions on what I need to do.
Thanks
Daphna
Since it’s a wet spot the best fix would be epoxy, or putting in a wood patch with a water proof glue.
Question: I recently bought a 108 year old historic house with lots of wood panel doors that have veneer panel insets back to back. Many of these have severe cracks in them up to 1/4" wide. I assume this is from either lack of keeping the wood hydrated, or just humidity causing it to be moist and then drying out. Regardless, I need to fix them. I guess I can use a syringe to glue the veneers back down flat, but what would I use to fill and color the cracks?
You’re talking restoration which is a world I avoid. The right answer is repair the veneers. Sand everything. Color match a fill as close as possible. Then refinish it all as close to original as possible.
There are folks that can do spot repairs. They’re incredibly talented artists with an understanding of woodworking.
Really helpful advice, thanks 👄🙋♀️☯️
Thanks for watching!
Good video. I’m refinishing my cedar deck and railing. I’m thinking of a solid stain for the railing and I’ve been using Wood Epox to fill in voids. Will the stain cover up the Wood Epox?
On the deck I’m using black resin and probably a semi transparent stain. Is this ok?
Thanks,
Paul
Depends on the specific epoxy and stain. If the epoxy accepts stains, is exterior rated, and the stain is opaque - shouldn’t be a problem.
Great tips! Thank you. I have an 8 foot cedar that I am making into a table. There is a large hole in the center that does not go all the way through. I am looking for the best product to fill it with the most natural finishing look. Any ideas?
You’ll probably want to route it to an easy shape and make a cedar plug to glue in.. if it’s large and you want natural
I’m making a wavy blue line flag for a customer and I have a long crack along one of the black (stained)stripes- it’s about 1/8” wide and 24” long, u recommend black CA glue?
That’d work well if you get the thick formulation
Can totalboat fixwood take black pigment? Or should I go with the starbond CA? I just have small checks and knots.
If it’s small stuff I’d use CA glue, especially if you want it black. It takes a lot of pigment to get most compounds actually black and not just grey.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo thanks! I really appreciate the fast reply! It's two end tables made of walnut with knots and cracks (kinda rustic). I don't know how much I'll need and can't decide between the epoxy mix or the CA glue. Sounds like the putty isn't for me.
Fuck it I'll get both lol.
Is timber-mate weatherproof can I use it outside?
Can you stain the sawdust before mixing with the glue using the titebond II?
I guess? But it's still just mixed in glue which is also gonna stand out... just seems like a lot of work when you could just use similar colored stainable wood putty.
How can someone remove non-hardening wood putty from wood? I mistakenly applied minmax non-hardening wood putty to unfinish-wood. It wasn't until a few days later when I checked the putty and found it had not hardened/dried. Any advice would be most appreciated!!!
Not easy way. Just start digging it out with whatever you can
Hey Caleb I have a large hole about 2” deep an 2” height that runs about 10” long on the bottom of 3 old outdoor wood widow frame that will be covered with a piece of trim after filled
What would you use to fill this?
I was ready to use wood glue and sawdust mix tell I saw your video
Could you please advise what you would do ???
I've used Bondo for similar situations.
That'd be my recommendation
Really excellent tips, Caleb! Thanks! 😃
But yeah, I've used a lot the glue and saw dust trick and it always worked great. But I usually don't stain wood, so... 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks! Like everything, the answer is always "it depends" :D
Black CA. Brilliant!
It’s so handy!
What kind of color dye do you mix with the bondo?
I think I used pigment dispersion from total boat in this
Would epoxy work in gaps between two planks if i make sure its watertight?
Yep
I'm sure it's already been said somewhere here, but stain some small scrap with intended finish stain, sand it lightly, capture dust .. mix and apply with pva ?
But then you've gotta sand it smooth after you apply and ruin the stain job on your piece. Even if you do it perfectly and don't have to sand.. depends on the topcoat. Glue won't take oil. I'd just as soon use a wood filler as part of the sanding process.. far fewer steps and it'll take the stain and finish just like the wood.
Yeah .. I guess the scrap/donor stain wouldn't be that resilitent to a proper sanding
What did you use to color the bondo
TotalBoat Pigment Dispersion www.totalboat.com/product/pigment-dispersions-epoxy-resin
One more trick: water based stain mixes in PVA good. Just don't use too much.
I dropped a heat lamp face down unto the base floor of a walk in shower. Partical board has been burned, of course the fiberglass base was burned through. All around a 6" hole. My landlord said if you can fix it great. Otherwise we are going to have to trare out the shower and replace the shower base.
Any suggestions?
That’s a cut out and patch in new material job. Fillers aren’t made for large load bearing stuff like that. Particle board isn’t made to be repaired. If it’s damaged it’s done
Thank you
You're welcome
What about big fist-sized home in a window sill that will also need a little moulding?
If it was broke, I’d Bondo. If it’s rot, replace the sill.
First time watcher! Great content also! :D
The video keeps jumping though, in and out of closer and further away shots with frequent cuts as well. The action had a strobing effect on me and made it hard for me to watch. :(
Sorry about that. You won’t find it on other videos. We were playing with editing style and got a lot of similar feedback immediately.
Thanks for watching! Hope you enjoy more 😊
I'll say it again, you need to conduct live classes. You make things interesting and aren't afraid to make mistakes and correct them. Stay safe.
Thanks for the support, Robert! That's definitely the plan, just not there yet.
Powdered concrete dye works really well to color Bondo
Good tip!
If I have a broken bed and the wood is split. Would wood glue keep the board together?
Probably, be sure to clamp it. I'd be tempted to add a little reinforcement on the inside though since clearly the board wasn't strong enough for the application to begin with
Can you stain the glue first? Mix stain and wet glue...
If the piece of wood is soo damaged that it requires structural wood filer should you use it in the first place?
Structural in the context of making furniture, not a building. And I wouldn't use a piece that is entirely punky. But I've used a lot of slabs that had rotted/punky spots that needed some help.
Can't one mix some sawdust with that epoxy? Would add streaks of fiber, that take color... Idk, it's a question.
You can. But the epoxy will saturated the dust and it won’t take any stain or penetrating finishes.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo I c, cool, ty. Been wondering about that. I'm serious about the Modge Podge. Grab a bottle, it'll become a staple quickly. It's basically white glue, but formulated to take finish. They have matte and gloss to choose from. peace
Ive had good luck with water putty. Cheap, paintable, rock hard and dries in minutes. Unfortunately doesnt take stain...
Great for painted projects though
0:15 oh my
Could you please touch on, even do a special video of filling in wood that has a grain say on a lux wooden window frame, that has some finishing nail holes that you want to fill in and make disappear. How does one fill the holes to match both the slight variance in colour with the wood and the Grain and the whole is right half on the Grain and half in the lighter colour wood.
I tried sending getting some sawdust using 15-second Carpenter's glue but find that the glue dries to a darker colour and much sanding is necessary bringing down a layer of the wood. Could you please do a video on the process. And please p. M. Me ASAP I'm working on a beautiful log home. And a video on how to fill holes on Cedar with the various colours shades of pink purple tan and white all in the beauty of cedar. How to fill holes and foot paint to possibly use to try to match the green and how to seal this? All the above is using Clear Stain. Glacier satin Clear Stain
amzn.to/3LAJyEf
If you wanna get that particular then you’re looking at custom mixing wood filler for each spot. Getting the color nailed is trial and error. Something like the product above will help a lot.
Or you just use saw dust and bone glue. It takes stain, oil, whatever like a pro and creates a TOUGH structure if brushed quite thinly into rotten/weak or porous woods. Sometimes the "old stuff" is the best stuff.
good info but the camera cuts and the amount of camera sway made me really nauseous...
I agree, extremely jarring. Nothing that can't be fixed, though!
Agreed
I never notice these things, but I sure noticed it here. Felt like I was drunk on a small boat. Had to click away
Thanks for the feedback, this was a new approach we took - we're gonna pull it way back though after the feedback, so thanks for letting me know.
Oh really it wasn’t that bad!
I did not get the name of the glue gun and sticks you were using can you list them please
I think it’s a glubot
Also, I think he was using ice picks made for wood working.
us.rangateknotfiller.com/products/rangate-knot-filler-heat-gun
They're Rangate. us.rangateknotfiller.com/collections/all?sort_by=best-selling
the constant in and out camera zoom was rough, but great info
The editing style is an outlier, got a lot of that feedback and adjusted accordingly
All u need is bondo doesn’t shrink or crack and is harder than any wood filler
Can't be used for structural repairs though, nor does it accept stain. So not suitable for all applications. But there is a place for it.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo true
I see the cuts were done to try to accentuate the audio. I suggest using like text or some other layover graphic to accentuate the audio occasionally instead of just using the jump cut 100% of the time
Thanks!
very informative videos but these edits are making me dizzy.
Thanks for the feedback, it was a new approach. We're toning it back.
🙏 Thank YOU for your knowledge, and I really enjoyed your video. Haters are going to always hate-that's probably only thing that brings them any joy in their miserable lives, so hit them with a🖕and just keep doing your thing, my man. Because you've just gained a new subscriber in me. Stay😎!!
Much appreciated, thanks!
"pile it up on your crack" hehe
🤷🏻♂️
Hide/protein glue takes dyes or stains better
I wonder if using ca glue without accelerator make it absorb stain better? Probably not
Nah it’s the same. Just cures slower.
My boys somehow ripped the screws out from underneath the ping pong table which is particle board. I’m trying to figure out the best way to fix any suggestions
There are screws for particle board. Probably have to make new holes. No good way to repair particle board to hold again
How do I fix a chip in a Trex deck board?
Hopefully they've got some information on it. I've never messed with composite boards
Good content, the editing is way too distracting.
It was an experiment, we pulled it back for the follow up. Check out the sanding video we just released and let me know if that’s more balanced pleased 👍
The zoom effect becomes quite annoying
Stain first...even a first finish coat then fill or glue
thumbs way upppp uppp uppppp
Thanks!
The biggest problem with that stuff is the shelf life is only about 2 years. Once you open it and even if you don't. I've had it be hard as a rock. Small portions is probably best
Which stuff?
@@YouCanMakeThisToo puddy.. wood filler. Anything is a tub
I’ve had some timbermate for over 3 years and it’s fine. If it gets a little dry a few drops of water brings it right back. Great stuff.
Thanks Caleb.
Thanks for watching!
Your video is very informational but for the love of god stop editing so crazy. The pop jumps in and out make it really hard to watch.
This video was an experiment with that, it's the only one that way
Other than that, it is very informative.
Good advice but the camera editing had the likes to give me a seizure. I don't think it's necessary. Just my honest opinion.
That's common feedback on this video, it was a new take and we immediately pared it way back. Thanks for reaffirming that was the right move
I had to rewind least 3x. I laughed so hard. Cause we all do this. We all practice an make so many awkward gestures. But honestly keep them pleaseee. Lol. You are a flawed man. Haha. You are a NORMAL MAN. DONT REDO THESE NO MO. You ARE WAISTING TIME. AN NI ONE LIKE PERFECT. I’m sure your wife just loves You for You. An prob laughs at You too.
Haha thanks! I appreciate it. Try to keep it real around here
My ex-roomate forget his door key so he pried the door open. The door wood is chewed up near where the latch is. The rest of the is fine. What should I use?
Any of the paintable Elmers or 3M stuff from a home improvement warehouse will be fine for that. Could even use lightweight spackle