Nice video Scruf! Just to clarify what that check valve is there for and what it's not there for. It is there so that if the filter never gets changed and gets to restricted the check valve will open and let a little oil by and it won't be enough to save your engine unless you shut it down right way. Also, for those that don't know, most quality filters have a check valve built into them these days that will open if there is a problem with the filter getting clogged up. Most people that buy parts like the Bypass Delete keep their oil and filter clean anyway so it’s not a problem. The check valve works off a pressure differential. That means that when the pressure jumps up like when you rev the engine and the pressure gets a little higher for a second on the outside of the filter element then on the inside of it, the check valve will open letting unfiltered oil in for a second. All those seconds of it cracking open lead to a lot of unfiltered oil unnecessarily entering the bearings and lifter needle bearings. That being said, its ok if the oil pressure gets a little lower on the inner part of the filter, its brief and its not that low and plenty of oil is still flowing through the filter. As a matter of fact, it usually is a little lower on the inside of the element and the oil pressure gauge is reading that pressure. The check valve doesn’t know the difference between a clogged filter and a brief difference in the pressure differential that’s why it’s always opening and closing. Letting unfiltered oil through. The check valve is not there for cold oil, especial with the light weight oils we use these days. We always recommend warming your engine (oil) up before you start being hard on it anyway. Deleting the check valve will not cause the oil pump to cavitate, it is after the pump so the oil already went through the pump before it hits the filter. Dirty oil kills modern engines with tight clearances like the LS series engines. Engine builders have been blocking the check valve since the old school small blocks so this is nothing new. They new unfiltered oil is not a good thing. We at SacCityCorvette have been running these deletes and our Billet Barbells that also keep unfiltered oil out in some very pumped up Corvettes, Cadillac Cts-V’s and Camaros for quit a while now. We have torn some of the engines down that we run these parts in that keep unfiltered oil out and the bearings don’t have those tiny particles embedded in them and we haven’t had a lifter failure yet on them, which is pretty common in LS engines, especially with big cams and heavy spring pressures. We feel that keeping the small particles out of the lifter needle bearings contributes to them holding up so well. Thank you, Christian SacCityCorvette
Wix filters for Corvette DO NOT and most others with the Corvette part # do not have the spring loaded valve that you'd see the same filters in other cars. I can look in my new wix xp right now, nothing on the bottom on the inside, their logic is that C5Z has it built into the car
@CorvetteTrev really? I my Yukon has the 6.2 l94. I run the napa platinum 47070, basically wix, and there's a check valve in the bottom center. Corvette guys don't get those on reccomended wix filters?
Ok i been around a while and the last hot rod i built a 302 chev that i use to buzz up to 7.5 k pretty often i had blocked the by pass with flat washer . I found the information in a book written by Bill Jenkins . He recommended using the one quart truck filter which i think was the same length as the 6 qt vet oil pan i ran . I think he stated it lout flowed two ph8a filter on a remote block . that was a long time ago ok .My short block was sprint car and the top end was off a G gas car . It ran ok and i never had any problems with the engine . The filter on the ls3 in the SS camaro is not any bigger than the one on my money pit harleys . A SS 124 and a SS 143 engines
You need to tag this to Chevy Trucks! Common problem on all of the LS engines. It does not cross reference, this video is like gold to us. Don't want to have to fun over your vet:-)
I agree most of the LS motors are such dirty motors on the inside and personally I think it’s because of this check valve letting stuff just go right back into the motor I also updated to a wix Filter that is a lot bigger than the stock filter they tell you to buy and it’s helped out quite a bit
This bypass valve is opening more than you think. Cold oil has more pressure, upper rpms and high oil pressure, cheap oil filters, and debris getting in it. An idiot light would be a good addition to blocking it off.
Just for the record, I think it's a bad idea to eliminate the bypass. It should only allow flow if the filter becomes too plugged up. I can see stiffening, ie. increasing bypass minimum pressure in a race or high pressure application but don't know why you would ever eliminate this feature.
Honestly, as easy as you pushed that valve down for bypass, I bet that thing opens before 30 lbs. of oil pressure. You put probably 10 lbs of pressure on it.
Hello I have an aftermarket oil pan like yours but the original size oil filter doesn’t fit I am using ph3506 what kind of oil filter did you use on your pan- thanks
Wouldn't this bypass work on a pressure differential concept meaning if flow is good , that flow /psi thru the filter would hold the by-pass closed . When flow thru the filter (thus lower psi) is not good , 30 psi would allow the by-pass to open due to the lack of pressure holding the by=pass closed . My 2 cents .
Correct, the bypass is working on a pressure differential. It's just that the spring is very soft, so it's often bypassing unfiltered oil even when there isn't a significant restriction. So if you do the bypass delete, it's very important to run a quality high flow filter. Typically a 100% synthetic media type filter.
I can't say for sure, I haven't looked at an LM7 block. The next time you do an oil change, look and see if you have a bypass valve in the block like is shown in the video. You can use a screwdriver to press it in and see if it's sticking. Of course, if it is stuck, you'll want to investigate why... is there debris in there? If it's not stuck, but you still feel like it's bypassing oil, then it could be that the filter is clogged. You can buy a tool to cut open your oil filter; kinda like a big can opener. Doing so will allow you to inspect the filter media and see if there's debris or sludge clogging it.
So my car is NOT a DD and I ALWAYS drive the car easy and let it fully warm up before driving it hard. If you're the sort that likes to start the vehicle and immediately take off, then I would leave the bypass valve in place.
Me too what have you found out I’ve getting a oil leak and don’t understand it using to much oil but I remembered removing this Val e and leaving it out . Oh no did I mess up or what
Not sure about deleting the filter bypass, I know a couple guys that used a remote oil filter system to conduct brand to brand filter comparisons. They found most all oil filters had plugged enough to elevate the pressure to a bypass state within 200 miles of the oil change. Some better than others but all bypassed.
I'm building an ls3 and I am getting away from the tight tolerances, going to open up to 2 2.5 thou. Run 15 40 oil and not worry about it. Moving oil out of the bearing is more beneficial
The thread shaft that your oil filter screws on to (remove at the 2 min mark for reference) overlaps the delete plug (in the same way it overlapped the stock bypass valve).
Yes, the valve could open during cold start depending on how well your oil filter flows. But realize when that valve opens, it is letting unfiltered oil into your motor. So that said, if you delete this valve, it is extra important to let the motor warm up before driving it hard. It is also important to run a high quality oil filter. There are a number of brand options, but I recommend something with a fully synthetic filter media (as opposed to a cellulose media). These filters will flow and filter better. I personally like the Purolator Boss filter but there are others that are good too. Also, most oil filters also have a bypass built into them which bypasses oil if the pressure differential becomes too great across the filter element. While that does allow unfiltered oil in, it is a final fail safe.
Scruf's Garage I don't really see a reason to even have this bypass, most modern oil filters already have a bypass if the filter is too restrictive. Just makes me think 2 bypass one in the pan and another in the filter then a leaking barbell how much oil was even getting filtered.
@@bryanmartinez6600 they put them in pan for the people thay dont like to change oil if filter gets backed up oil is still available to flow. You would be surprised how many people don't change oil and can cause problems. As long as you change oil regular this won't hurt to block them
I used a conventional (not synthetic) and some Lucas ZDDP additive during the break-in. Since it's not a flat tappet cam, it's not as sensitive to needing zinc, but it certainly doesn't hurt.
It shouldn’t have effect on increasing pressure. The pump has a relief valve that relieves the pumps output pressure, which is before the filter and this valve. This valve is to limit excessive pressure in an over pressure situation
It shouldn't in theory but it 100% does. It's technically a maintenance item. If oil pressure is off, too high or too low this is the first thing you would check, they're cheap as borscht too.
Not directly. This valve is looking at the pressure difference across the oil filter. If the pressure difference across the filter exceeds the setting of the valve, then the valve opens and unfiltered oil bypasses the filter. If the filter were severely clogged, that could potentially cause low oil pressure. But that would typically only happen in extreme situations... ie, engine failure and debris clogging filter, significant sludge buildup from not changing the oil, or the internal filter collapsing.
I am not related to this video, but is the oil filter by-pass was defective or sticking due to debris, one could expect to see an increase of cold/ hot oil pressure. Some aftermarket oil pans have done away with it completely. Just maintain oil and install a quality oil filter. I use ACDelco filter. New vehicles, after 2008, has this relief on the inside. I could be wrong on year and perhaps only certain engines, but changed. ASE Master since 1978.
Ben Goodhue Yes, some oil filters have the bypass built into the filter itself. However, for the LS motors, since the bypass is in the block, there is not a bypass in the filter.
Be CAREFUL before you consider deleting the oil filter bypass. It SOUNDS like a good idea, right? Who wants unfiltered oil entering the engine??? However, Under certain circumstances, the bypass is necessary to avoid collapsing the oil filter element and blowing the filter right off the engine. I have had this happen on my racecar. When the oil is very cold, (like a sub-zero day in Minot, ND) the oil viscosity (thickness) gets very high. It is very difficult to push thick/cold oil through any filter element. This is when the bypass valve is intended to open and allow the thick/cold oil into the engine. The oil filter bypass valve works on oil filter pressure differential (or the pressure on either side of the filter. The differential is very low under most operating conditions. Except: extremely dirty filter and very high viscosity. I would NEVER delete the oil filter bypass on a street driven vehicle. Race engine? Different story.
Let's see you have camshaft problems fix the problems bypass valve personally I would put a remote filter system on the vehicle what's a good bypass valve on a good racing filter but you got to fix your engine problems first filters on these new engines don't do much too small they depend on clean engine oil in them all the time
Are you going to delete the oil bypass valve that's inside every oral filter you can put on that engine? I don't think the oil system needs an extra bypass valve. It already has a pressure relief valve on the oil pump. Now all you need to increase soil pressure is to take the cap off of the pressure spring and add a few washers under it. Three or four washers old raise that all pressure B 10 or 15 lb. The problem I cannot figure out is why all these Engineers think that they need to three and four pressure-relief switches in an oil system on an engine. Somebody's paying these people or they wouldn't keep showing up for work. If they're doing s*** like this they need to be fired
Every car engine of modern design has an oil bypass. Your real problem is that your camshaft failed you would be better off fixing what ever it was that lead to your camshaft disintegrating and showing your engine with metal debris! Now if your filter should have a malfunction or your oil is really cold your engine can starve for oil! So what caused your camshaft to fail?
The cam was an old Thunder Racing cam, and I believe they were using Comp cam cores. From my research, it appears a number of years back there were some quality issues with some of those cores. So I don't think the cam wear was a result of any oiling system failures, but rather a cam core material failure.
Yes, most all camshafts are ground to 0.003-0.004 of final profile, then heat treated. It depends on the company but "Case Hardening" is normal for least amount of warpage. The cams are then ground to final finish & profile. GM had a number of camshaft failures due to this issue in the 80's. I changed a lot of them but they had lasted to over 100+ miles on flat tappet lifters. ASE Master since 78
Nice video Scruf!
Just to clarify what that check valve is there for and what it's not there for. It is there so that if the filter never gets changed and gets to restricted the check valve will open and let a little oil by and it won't be enough to save your engine unless you shut it down right way. Also, for those that don't know, most quality filters have a check valve built into them these days that will open if there is a problem with the filter getting clogged up. Most people that buy parts like the Bypass Delete keep their oil and filter clean anyway so it’s not a problem.
The check valve works off a pressure differential. That means that when the pressure jumps up like when you rev the engine and the pressure gets a little higher for a second on the outside of the filter element then on the inside of it, the check valve will open letting unfiltered oil in for a second. All those seconds of it cracking open lead to a lot of unfiltered oil unnecessarily entering the bearings and lifter needle bearings. That being said, its ok if the oil pressure gets a little lower on the inner part of the filter, its brief and its not that low and plenty of oil is still flowing through the filter. As a matter of fact, it usually is a little lower on the inside of the element and the oil pressure gauge is reading that pressure. The check valve doesn’t know the difference between a clogged filter and a brief difference in the pressure differential that’s why it’s always opening and closing. Letting unfiltered oil through.
The check valve is not there for cold oil, especial with the light weight oils we use these days. We always recommend warming your engine (oil) up before you start being hard on it anyway.
Deleting the check valve will not cause the oil pump to cavitate, it is after the pump so the oil already went through the pump before it hits the filter.
Dirty oil kills modern engines with tight clearances like the LS series engines.
Engine builders have been blocking the check valve since the old school small blocks so this is nothing new. They new unfiltered oil is not a good thing.
We at SacCityCorvette have been running these deletes and our Billet Barbells that also keep unfiltered oil out in some very pumped up Corvettes, Cadillac Cts-V’s and Camaros for quit a while now. We have torn some of the engines down that we run these parts in that keep unfiltered oil out and the bearings don’t have those tiny particles embedded in them and we haven’t had a lifter failure yet on them, which is pretty common in LS engines, especially with big cams and heavy spring pressures. We feel that keeping the small particles out of the lifter needle bearings contributes to them holding up so well.
Thank you,
Christian
SacCityCorvette
Awesome info Christian. Thanks for sharing. And great product btw!
Thanks for this info!
Wix filters for Corvette DO NOT and most others with the Corvette part # do not have the spring loaded valve that you'd see the same filters in other cars. I can look in my new wix xp right now, nothing on the bottom on the inside, their logic is that C5Z has it built into the car
@CorvetteTrev really? I my Yukon has the 6.2 l94. I run the napa platinum 47070, basically wix, and there's a check valve in the bottom center. Corvette guys don't get those on reccomended wix filters?
Ok i been around a while and the last hot rod i built a 302 chev that i use to buzz up to 7.5 k pretty often i had blocked the by pass with flat washer . I found the information in a book written by Bill Jenkins . He recommended using the one quart truck filter which i think was the same length as the 6 qt vet oil pan i ran . I think he stated it lout flowed two ph8a filter on a remote block . that was a long time ago ok .My short block was sprint car and the top end was off a G gas car . It ran ok and i never had any problems with the engine . The filter on the ls3 in the SS camaro is not any bigger than the one on my money pit harleys . A SS 124 and a SS 143 engines
You need to tag this to Chevy Trucks! Common problem on all of the LS engines. It does not cross reference, this video is like gold to us. Don't want to have to fun over your vet:-)
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to add some video tags to help the truck guys find this!
I agree most of the LS motors are such dirty motors on the inside and personally I think it’s because of this check valve letting stuff just go right back into the motor I also updated to a wix Filter that is a lot bigger than the stock filter they tell you to buy and it’s helped out quite a bit
This bypass valve is opening more than you think. Cold oil has more pressure, upper rpms and high oil pressure, cheap oil filters, and debris getting in it. An idiot light would be a good addition to blocking it off.
Where is that pressure relief valve located?
Just for the record, I think it's a bad idea to eliminate the bypass. It should only allow flow if the filter becomes too plugged up. I can see stiffening, ie. increasing bypass minimum pressure in a race or high pressure application but don't know why you would ever eliminate this feature.
Did the oil pressure go up as well?
Honestly, as easy as you pushed that valve down for bypass, I bet that thing opens before 30 lbs. of oil pressure. You put probably 10 lbs of pressure on it.
Hello I have an aftermarket oil pan like yours but the original size oil filter doesn’t fit I am using ph3506 what kind of oil filter did you use on your pan- thanks
Mine was the stock bat-wing oil pan. No issues with filter fitment.
I'm not sure those matel partials are big enough to be caught in the filter
Red tread locker enemy is a little heat 👍
Wouldn't this bypass work on a pressure differential concept meaning if flow is good , that flow /psi thru the filter would hold the by-pass closed . When flow thru the filter (thus lower psi) is not good , 30 psi would allow the by-pass to open due to the lack of pressure holding the by=pass closed . My 2 cents .
Correct, the bypass is working on a pressure differential. It's just that the spring is very soft, so it's often bypassing unfiltered oil even when there isn't a significant restriction. So if you do the bypass delete, it's very important to run a quality high flow filter. Typically a 100% synthetic media type filter.
Does this apply to an 01 silverado 5.3. LM7 engine? The oil turns black pretty quick so maybe that valve is stuck open??
I can't say for sure, I haven't looked at an LM7 block. The next time you do an oil change, look and see if you have a bypass valve in the block like is shown in the video. You can use a screwdriver to press it in and see if it's sticking. Of course, if it is stuck, you'll want to investigate why... is there debris in there? If it's not stuck, but you still feel like it's bypassing oil, then it could be that the filter is clogged. You can buy a tool to cut open your oil filter; kinda like a big can opener. Doing so will allow you to inspect the filter media and see if there's debris or sludge clogging it.
A "suspension" type oil will turn dark quickly . I'm not sure if it is even made these days . Chevron Delo was a suspension type of oil .
Yes I did it to my neighbors 06 LM7
What if you left it open with nothing I. It at all wouldn’t that help pressure or cause problems
The port is the oil filter bypass. So if you left the plug out, it would allow oil to constantly bypass the filter. So definitely not recommend.
where did you grtbthe plug
link please !!
i have a 04 8.1 with oil pressure issues and this would be the first step before dropping the oul pan
Mine came from Sac City Corvette. www.saccitycorvette.com/BilletBypassPlug.html
I deleted the check valve ball on my 2000 z71. It's still on the rack. Is this going to cause me problems or can I leave it deleted?
So my car is NOT a DD and I ALWAYS drive the car easy and let it fully warm up before driving it hard. If you're the sort that likes to start the vehicle and immediately take off, then I would leave the bypass valve in place.
Me too what have you found out I’ve getting a oil leak and don’t understand it using to much oil but I remembered removing this Val e and leaving it out . Oh no did I mess up or what
Not sure about deleting the filter bypass, I know a couple guys that used a remote oil filter system to conduct brand to brand filter comparisons. They found most all oil filters had plugged enough to elevate the pressure to a bypass state within 200 miles of the oil change. Some better than others but all bypassed.
I'm building an ls3 and I am getting away from the tight tolerances, going to open up to 2 2.5 thou. Run 15 40 oil and not worry about it. Moving oil out of the bearing is more beneficial
Are you building a daily driver engine ?
@@freddienz68 street/offroad use.
Would love to see a few videos on the assembly of you engine and the parts you recommend for this build. 👍🔧🏁
@@freddienz68 it's a 3.900 stroker with a 6.300 rod and a really short diamond piston. 4.070 bore. Should turn some heads
Molnar engineering for the 3.900 crank and 6.300 rods.
Just what keeps this plug in place?
The thread shaft that your oil filter screws on to (remove at the 2 min mark for reference) overlaps the delete plug (in the same way it overlapped the stock bypass valve).
I thought that valve is also for cold start until your oil is up to temp the valve opens so your engine doesn't run dry
Yes, the valve could open during cold start depending on how well your oil filter flows. But realize when that valve opens, it is letting unfiltered oil into your motor. So that said, if you delete this valve, it is extra important to let the motor warm up before driving it hard. It is also important to run a high quality oil filter. There are a number of brand options, but I recommend something with a fully synthetic filter media (as opposed to a cellulose media). These filters will flow and filter better. I personally like the Purolator Boss filter but there are others that are good too. Also, most oil filters also have a bypass built into them which bypasses oil if the pressure differential becomes too great across the filter element. While that does allow unfiltered oil in, it is a final fail safe.
Scruf's Garage I don't really see a reason to even have this bypass, most modern oil filters already have a bypass if the filter is too restrictive. Just makes me think 2 bypass one in the pan and another in the filter then a leaking barbell how much oil was even getting filtered.
@@bryanmartinez6600 they put them in pan for the people thay dont like to change oil if filter gets backed up oil is still available to flow. You would be surprised how many people don't change oil and can cause problems. As long as you change oil regular this won't hurt to block them
This is pretty slick, I use the SacCity billet barbell in place of the plastic OEM, real nice parts.
I agree, all of their parts are really well made. I've also found their AlignIt tools to be very handy.
Do you use zinc oil while breaking in the engine?
I used a conventional (not synthetic) and some Lucas ZDDP additive during the break-in. Since it's not a flat tappet cam, it's not as sensitive to needing zinc, but it certainly doesn't hurt.
dont oil filters have bypass's built into them?
Some do, but these do not since the bypass is in the block.
would this increase oil pressure?
It shouldn’t have effect on increasing pressure. The pump has a relief valve that relieves the pumps output pressure, which is before the filter and this valve. This valve is to limit excessive pressure in an over pressure situation
It shouldn't in theory but it 100% does. It's technically a maintenance item. If oil pressure is off, too high or too low this is the first thing you would check, they're cheap as borscht too.
Can you tell me what size Allen wrench I need
Should be a 1/2" hex. See the 2:03 mark to make sure we're talking about the same thing.
@@ScrufsGarage thank you idk know how I missed that lol🤦♂️
haha no worries, happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Save the trouble fill the stock pos with urethane
Oil filters only work when you are idling.
Gotta love people who think they know better than the engineers who built the LS1, stop it. That plug is not just for hot bypass.
Would this cause a low oil pressure issue? If not functioning properly?
Not directly. This valve is looking at the pressure difference across the oil filter. If the pressure difference across the filter exceeds the setting of the valve, then the valve opens and unfiltered oil bypasses the filter. If the filter were severely clogged, that could potentially cause low oil pressure. But that would typically only happen in extreme situations... ie, engine failure and debris clogging filter, significant sludge buildup from not changing the oil, or the internal filter collapsing.
Where can you get the brass Allen plug
www.saccitycorvette.com/BilletBypassPlug.html
Thanks this help me a lot!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
How is the engine running with the bypass delete??
I am not related to this video, but is the oil filter by-pass was defective or sticking due to debris, one could expect to see an increase of cold/ hot oil pressure. Some aftermarket oil pans have done away with it completely. Just maintain oil and install a quality oil filter. I use ACDelco filter. New vehicles, after 2008, has this relief on the inside. I could be wrong on year and perhaps only certain engines, but changed. ASE Master since 1978.
You'r oil filter has a bypass spring built into a.
Ben Goodhue Yes, some oil filters have the bypass built into the filter itself. However, for the LS motors, since the bypass is in the block, there is not a bypass in the filter.
AC Delco filters are built for up to 25psi relief valve incase the media becomes clogged.
Isn’t the bypass in the pan? Not the block.
Be CAREFUL before you consider deleting the oil filter bypass. It SOUNDS like a good idea, right? Who wants unfiltered oil entering the engine??? However, Under certain circumstances, the bypass is necessary to avoid collapsing the oil filter element and blowing the filter right off the engine. I have had this happen on my racecar. When the oil is very cold, (like a sub-zero day in Minot, ND) the oil viscosity (thickness) gets very high. It is very difficult to push thick/cold oil through any filter element. This is when the bypass valve is intended to open and allow the thick/cold oil into the engine. The oil filter bypass valve works on oil filter pressure differential (or the pressure on either side of the filter. The differential is very low under most operating conditions. Except: extremely dirty filter and very high viscosity.
I would NEVER delete the oil filter bypass on a street driven vehicle. Race engine? Different story.
CTS-V?
No, this was on the LS1 in my C5 Corvette.
@@ScrufsGarage Thank you
Let's see you have camshaft problems fix the problems bypass valve personally I would put a remote filter system on the vehicle what's a good bypass valve on a good racing filter but you got to fix your engine problems first filters on these new engines don't do much too small they depend on clean engine oil in them all the time
Dude, learn english grammar! Without commas and periods, you make no sense
Are you going to delete the oil bypass valve that's inside every oral filter you can put on that engine? I don't think the oil system needs an extra bypass valve. It already has a pressure relief valve on the oil pump. Now all you need to increase soil pressure is to take the cap off of the pressure spring and add a few washers under it. Three or four washers old raise that all pressure B 10 or 15 lb. The problem I cannot figure out is why all these Engineers think that they need to three and four pressure-relief switches in an oil system on an engine. Somebody's paying these people or they wouldn't keep showing up for work. If they're doing s*** like this they need to be fired
the spring does not "raise" oil pressure, it just allows a higher ceiling, it doesn't change oil pressure at idle or under the max relief pressure
Bypass (bi-pass) ......
Every car engine of modern design has an oil bypass. Your real problem is that your camshaft failed you would be better off fixing what ever it was that lead to your camshaft disintegrating and showing your engine with metal debris! Now if your filter should have a malfunction or your oil is really cold your engine can starve for oil! So what caused your camshaft to fail?
The cam was an old Thunder Racing cam, and I believe they were using Comp cam cores. From my research, it appears a number of years back there were some quality issues with some of those cores. So I don't think the cam wear was a result of any oiling system failures, but rather a cam core material failure.
OUCH! Doesn't that suck when a defective product completely destroys all the hard work and effort put into a project? :(
Yes, most all camshafts are ground to 0.003-0.004 of final profile, then heat treated. It depends on the company but "Case Hardening" is normal for least amount of warpage. The cams are then ground to final finish & profile.
GM had a number of camshaft failures due to this issue in the 80's. I changed a lot of them but they had lasted to over 100+ miles on flat tappet lifters.
ASE Master since 78
this is a bad idea..id rather run some dirty oil for a moment than to cavitate the oil pump.
Ool ba pass
Dirty oil is better than no oil.
So this guy thinks he’s smarter than every engineer at GM, yeah don’t don’t what he’s doing