This needs to be the top video for low oil pressure in an LS. I watched a pile of videos that only covered the issues with the oil pump. Turns out I had a cam bearing that walked out. Thank you so much for making this video.
Hello,question for you.5.3 silverado 2wd, 3mechanics an 2k and 4months later im trying to still fix oil pressure issue,while cleaning pan i found 2nch skinny metel shavings,does that automatically mean cam bearing problem?? Or is there a chance it can still be something else? I have pan n pump droppd still,any help will be GREATLY APPRECIATED😊
U can pump oil into the block with the pan off and see the oil leak by the cam bearing I used my wynns fuel psi injector cleaner filled it with thin oil 5w30 and used the port in the block side front drivers and u could see the oil by passing or leaking poring out the bad cam bearing !! I wrote my comment before seeing the hole video again for the 2nd time didn't remember the first other than my previous post thanks again u have really helped alot of people with your video hats off to ya !! 🙂
Wow man gotta give it to you. I’ve seen multiple and multiple of low oil pressure videos and none of them give an amazing detail on them. Really appreciate your knowledge and in your work. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
That I do. I have this discussion with 4 cylinder turbo guys who say they run 50 psi boost to make 1k hp. I say that is a lot of heat to make that power. I can do it with 8 cylinders on 22 lbs. Lot of people think more pressure means more flow, its the exact opposite. Low pressure moves more volume, less restriction. Anyway, thanks for the comment. I love hearing feedback from viewers.
I don't mind long winded videos when they are this informative, thank you for sharing your experience. Now I'm nervous about the cam bearings recently installed in my LS1 build. Didn't specify the wider bearings, wishing I would have after watching this. They had trouble installing the bearings in the aluminum block, told me the cam bearing bores were super tight. Hoping I'm not going to end up having to take this thing back out for another tear down anytime soon. Guess time will tell, at least I know some of the things to watch out for now. Thanks again!
Great video, I had just replace my o-ring, oil pump and sending unit and still have low pressure. You are the first to talk about the cam bearings. And now I have one last place to look before I pull the motor. Thank you
Hi I loved your video. I have a DOD deleted gen 4 L76 engine that is driving me nuts. I did a complete overhaul because of low oil pressure at warm idle(6-7 psi), checked with mechanical gauge. Block was sent to local machine shop for inspection, cleaning, oil galley plugs, new cam bearings and.020 overbore. New parts, reman Crankshaft with matched bearings, plastigage main and rod bearings, new non-dod stock camshaft, and new melling camshaft retaining cover, .020 piston and ring set, timing set ,new Melling 295 oil pump and new green o-ring, rivets in dod towers, plug in oil relief valve in oil pan, new oil barbell(dog bone) new lifters (lifter bores looked fine) and complete gasket set. Everything torqued to spec and used assembly lube and 30wt break in oil. Primed engine before starting. I have 60 psi at start up and still drops to 10psi at warm idle, 40 psi at 2000 rpm. runs good. During break-in the engine in (5miles) developed a valve train tick/ knock at all rpms. I pulled right side valve cover, Where the tick seemed to come from (top right side rear under intake). Run engine and have very little oil on rockers at idle. After a couple minutes at idle oil was at exhaust rockers but not at intake rockers? Pulled head and inspected lifters, Cylinder # 2 lifters showed a slight line on the rollers. the rest of the lifters showed no issues. ????? Sorry comment is so long. John
Good video. Bought a truck to get me by fix up and sell . Low oil pressure and radely was going to just change oil pump without dropping oil pan. . Very informative and helpful appreciate that.
Extremely great video best I've seen so far I do have a question after taking an oil pressure reading right behind the pump it's about 38 lb yet I get a pressure reading of 5lbs at the sender any suggestions ⁉️I really haven't had the experience pulling one of these engines apart and I am now retired at 72 years old
Thank You for a very comprehensive explanation concerning low oil pressure causes. talked to 4 mechanics and got 4 diffrent explanations.... I WAS a ASE certified many years ago and wanted just at least another opinion. You confirmed many things as I am of the 350 era.....built a few and found how to make more oil moving with higher rpm's... yada yada. thanks for confirming an ole guys diag.
I wish i had seen this video earlier, far more informative than the others i found on here when i was searching. I've been chasing a knock for years in an Alloy L98. I'm in Australia so its in a 2007 Holden VE SS commodore. I have spent a lot of time and money replacing everything to no avail. Last week i pulled the engine and stripped it down, found the cam bearings are stuffed, worn but luckily the didn't spin and my oil pressure wasn't catastrophically low.. Anyway its in the machine shop now for new cam bearings and a measure so hoping after all new gear the problem will be solved...The one good thing is, it has a lot of good parts in it now.
Great great info than you so much I supposedly replace my oil Pump but after watching this 99% my problem is just the oring thank you and all the best!!!
Wow! You’re very thorough explanations really shows you know your stuff. Thank you for helping me declare that I likely will need a rebuild due to the walking cam bearings!
I believe this what may have happened to my 2004 5.3L. For a year or two I was getting an ultra-fine golden metallic shine in my oil drain pan during oil changes. The engine ran fine and quiet with normal oil pressure. Then one morning on the way to work warning lights came on and oil press gauge went down to 10-15psi. With 245k on the engine and even after that it ran smooth and quiet but with very low oil press. I bought a GM factory engine long block, and had it changed by the best shop in my area that has been in business since 1947. Calvert Automotive here in Denton TX. I never had it torn down to find out what failed but that explanation of cam bearing backing out and getting sliced by the crank counterweights sure looks to be what happened to mine. I'm hoping the 2020 GM factory replacement engine will do better or at least get to another 250k.
THANK YOU! BACK IN MAY ,DROPPED OIL PAN CHECKED CAM BEARINGS WHICH I WOULD NOT HAVE IF NOT FOR YOUR VIDEO ,YES NOT AS EASY AS IT SOUNDS, USE A MIRROR AND SOME TWISTING AROUND ,ALL LOOKED FINE ,ALL I DID WAS PUT A NEW ORING ON OIL PICKUP AND EXTRA BOLT AND BRACKET ,OIL PAN GASKET .NO MORE LIFTER NOISE ,OIL PRESSURE 40LBS 269K NOW AND RUNS AND SOUNDS LIKE NEW . IT IS AMAZING WHAT ONE LITTLE ORING WILL DO , HELP FRIEND WITH SAME PROBLEM ON O5 5.3 AND FIXED IT .SO IT IS NOT A CAM AND LIFTER PROBLEM! !POM THAT MY CAM BEARINGS ARE GOOD . AT 215K THIS O5 5.3 STARTED SMOKING BAD ON CRANK UP , USED QT OF OIL ABOUT EVERY 200 MILES , FOULED PLUGS, I PUT FILTER ON VALVE COVER AT DRIVERS SIDE BACK ,PLUGGED INTAKE HOLE , NOW FOR THE LAST 55K IT DOES NOT USE A HALF QT OIL IN 6000 MILES ,(MY OIL CHANGE WITH MOBIL ONE 10W30)LATER I PUT BREATHER ON OIL FILL CAP, I HAD REAR MAIN SEAL GO OUT THINKING IT NEEDED MORE BREATHING.YES, THIS IS AMAZING THAT TWO SMALL THINGS CAN FIX THESE PROBLEMS THAT I KNOW PEOPLE HAVE DONE MAJOR COSTLY ENGINE WORK!!!
And also you're the only one in youtube exoblain, everything nicely very clear, someone sad Oil pump Orring. You are the only one it doing good video about the Oil pressure Issue thank you again
Man this is the best informational video I’ve see for the LQ4. I have a 2004 gmc 3500 6.0. It’s my van for carpet cleaning. The machine runs off a pto off the engine and not the trans. About 2 years ago I go out in the morning and out of no where check gauges light is on. 5 psi. Rev it up goes to about 25psi. No engine light. I’ve always had a sporadic idol sometimes low some times high after running my machine. That’s another issue though. So I’m driving this like this for 2 years. Never no knocking sound or ticking. Well last week I notice when I come out after the job and turn the machine off and the van Idols down the lifters are ticking. (Had oil change two weeks prior.) the noise stops by the time I’m at the next job. After the job the same thing. So a mechanic friend said to add some Lucas to the oil. When I did this the oil pressure dropped even more and once up to temp. wouldn’t go above 5 psi. So now I know there’s trouble. Still no knock or ticking. So I go to check the pickup tube o ring. Sure enough it’s dry rotted and squared. I’m thinking great a cheep fix! After install pressure is a lil stronger than it’s been in 2 years. I go to a job that’s 5 minutes away and that’s about how long it took to get to temp. Soon as it did pressure is back to 5 and lifters are ticking. I shit it down and had it towed. Now I thought oil pump pressure valve. Replaced the oil pump, still same problem. Also had already checked the sending sensor and had hooked up an independent gauge. Still same reading and there’s no screen under it for this year. I will check the cam bearings tomorrow but like I said no ticking or knocking. The only thing I’ve noticed so far is the first bearing closest to the trans. Dose have some play side to side but not up and down. From the info I’ve provided, so you have an opinion. Every mechanic I’ve talk to. Which none seem to have the specific knowledge you have on the LQ4 specifically all seem baffled that the pump didn’t fix the problem because how hard this vehicle works and there’s no knock or tic.
@@Brainstangs I replaced all the main bearings. That got me back on the road. The bearings were all scratched up. So I assume the cam bearings are the same which is where the other half of the pressure is being lost.
Most informative on low oil pressure i have seen, first i have seen showing the cam bearings walking out. Helped me out a lot with a 2005 Suburban i just bought and turns out to have low oil pressure ):
The best most informative video on utub about oil pressure issues,and man i have watched a LOT of them while trying to figure out my issue on 5.3silverado.. THANK YOU!!
Sir I'm an aircraft Auto and diesel mechanic who has built quite a few LS engines and I just like to say you did a fantastic job in presentation and knowledge.. thankyou For your time!!
Bro! This video was awesome. Explains everything perfectly. Just spent three days on my 05 Cargo van trying to figure out this issue. Checked pickup tube, o-ring, even replaced the pump. Still no luck. Wish I had found this video a week ago, I would have dropped the windage tray and found the answer. Thanks for posting this!!
Woooowww thanks for this video in a couple minutes you explained exactly how the oil runs and how it is distributed. I have looking and couldn’t find a definite explanation. 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
Thank you for sharing the knowledge man I love my car but I wouldn’t have learned what I am if it hadn’t failed ty for helping out in this life lesson g
So, here I am 3/2/2023 and I just Replaced my 2005 6.0 Oil pick up tube O ring, because of Oil pressure never getting to 40psi, and now I have much better Oil pressure. My Dash gauge is still surging up and down 2 to 5 Psi at constant Engine speeds and my Oil Pressure comes up when I first start the engine.. Thoughts? And, your Video is Awesome..
I'm on my 3rd Engine in my 2005 Escalade. Changed oil with mobil one every 3,000 miles religiously and noticing Oil pressure is starting to slowly slip on this engine now too, can't catch a break. Thanks for the video, very informative!
All really good information, all true. I've been lucky over the last 15 years of building LS's and I'll admit most of my engines have been junk yard pulls, most times they are low mileage motors and the only reason to pull the heads were to install new lifters. Any engine that leaves my garage, junkyard pull or ground up build gets a new Melling oil pump, one piece pushrods, a new LS2 timing chain and gears and a trunnion upgrade kit for the rockers. I've heard of this but it is the first time I've ever seen a cam bearing walk but I'll be looking for one now. When I hear a lifter ticking I've always traced it to a worn pushrod and rocker arm. When you disassemble it the top ball of the pushrod is worn oval destroying it and the rocker body because it had quit spinning. Hopefully my luck will hold out and with this information in hand I believe it will. Thanks.
thanks for the info on lifter tick. I have yet to encounter that. but I will look for it. Why do you feel the pushrod is rotating in the lifter cup? I knew they did on flat tappet cams as the lifter is offset ground to ensure even wear. I assumed the fixed orientation of the ls roller lifter would mean the pushrod was stationary. I'm not debating this just trying to learn. I would think the preload would keep if fixed. let me know your thoughts.
@@Brainstangs It's true the lifters remain stationary and I don't know why but on almost every LS I tear down I find 4-5 rockers where the cup in the rocker and the top of the pushrod looks like a football. The pushrod only wears front to back and quite a bit has been worn off causing a ticking noise. I always replace those rocker bodies and install one piece pushrods. Maybe it's a GM problem with the pushrod ball heat treat, I don't know but when you hear a ticking coming out of an LS it's a worn rocker and pushrod. I had that argument with my local dealer on a 2004 Silverado I had so I pulled it apart and showed him the parts. I replaced them and drove back over so that he could hear it and he reimbursed me the cost of the parts. He told me it was normal.
Hey buddy, my oil pressure is low on these cold mornings but not super low like these 2 customers trucks. It does improve after some driving on the road and freeway, at times its so quiet it doesn't sound like my truck is on,since it has a stock exhaust system, lol. I have a 2007 Silverado Classic with the 4.8 v8. After watching your video my guess is it's the oil pick up tube o-ring and man your info of the lifters was very comforting and educational! That it's the air in there, not just oil that's causing that light tick/ tap/ clack. I'm definitely going to have my mechanic drop the pan (since I don't have a lift) and replace that o-ring on the pickup tube! Like I said, I don't think it's a bad cam bearing because my pressure isn't 0 and it gets better after some driving and it's so quiet at times it doesn't sound like the same engine. But while he does drop the pan I may ask him to drop the windage tray, not the covers to the crank, but just the windage tray to see if the cam bearings are as they should be, but I'm kind of nervous about that! Lol. What do you think though about all that I said, symptoms and all, what's your best guesstimate?
Very very good video. I love how knowledgeable you are. My 2011 camaro (after a warm engine) gave me a low oil pressure warning. Instead of taking it to the dealer for thousands of dollars in repair, I decided to take on the task by myself (im 17) after dropping the subframe to drop the oil pan and next opening the timing cover. I found no visible issues with the oil pump, pickup tube and o-ring. But since you have showed me all possible ways I could have issues, tomorrow I’ll be diving into more diagnostics. I took the oil pump apart and saw no damage, but I’m hoping that the relief valve is the issue. I’ll probably put a new mellings HV pump and reassemble and hope it works. Thank you for the quality video.
dont forget the simple fix too. It very well could be a clogged screen in the valley plate under the oil pressure sensor. If you have dod or afm as its known, shuts down to four cylinder, one, tune it out, two remove the oil pressure sender and pull the screen. You only need the screen under there if you keeping dod. If you delete it with a tune, then pull the screen. lastly put a new sender in. You got this.
Most incredible and thorough explanation and video I have ever seen on YT or anywhere else! I have an 05 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD 5.3 Vortec with low oil pressure but the thing runs awesome. Just a basic ext cab long bed pick up truck, no frills. I changed the oil sending unit twice and confirmed low oil pressure with a manual guage. Anyway thanks for the vid. I'm about to tear it down (again) and install a new high volume Melling oil pump, pick up tube, new o ring etc and see if I can't get some oil pressure. Why does the oil pick up tube use only one bolt to secure it to the pump on one side? Seems like that's inviting an air leak to me. One of those mysteries of life I suppose.
the one bolt has no bearing on sealing of the oring. You only need one bolt. You will see that it just holds a plate down flat which keeps the oring happy. Good luck
Great video! My oil pressure dropped and I was hoping it was an oring but was worries about failed lifters or plastic lifter trays but your explanation of air in the oil giving ticking noises gives me hope. Also, great advice on checking the cam bearings. Thanks 🙏
This is the most important video I’ve watched since I started researching my oil pressure issue in my 06 Silverado 1500. I think I’m losing prime via the o ring. It primes up but after it warms up the pressure drops quickly and the lifters start ticking due to oil starvation. Thanks for all this information.
The O-ring was in pretty bad shape, so I stopped there and put it back together. I did take a look at the bearings as you suggested from underneath. As far as I could tell, they looked fine. Thanks for that tip by the way. The O-ring seems to have solved my oil pressure issue, fixed my startup noise, and my lifter tick once up to temperature. I did run the truck on a downhill slope beforehand(12 degree slope measured with my iPhone), and noticed the pressure improved. When the truck was pointed uphill or level it would lose pressure fast and the lifters got angry. Everything pointed to the O-ring, but your video had me prepared to check everything. 260K miles and counting! Thanks for the great video!
I wish I saw this video 2 days ago! I’m dealing with some pressure issues right now and probably overlooked some of the points you mentioned here! Either way, great video man!
Good video. I normally skim through long videos cause it's 90% talking about what wasn't the issue or what else they did that day walk the dog etc. Before they get to the point. I had to watch the whole thing through here. It was truly useful information. Even about the piston rod upgrades to the lq4 in 05 up. I finally got a pretty good idea of what im going to end up doing with my 03 2500hd. I wish it popped up on my search before when I did the o ring. I don't want to drop the pan again so I'm going to end up pulling the motor and rebuild or replace anyway. I notice a misfire when I first drive when it's cold and was led to believe possibly rings. But regardless the motor has 300+k miles so its do for a full teardown rebuild. I'll def be shooting for some upgrades if I'm going this far since I won't be going on that motor by choice a second time. Thanks for making a good video.
Seriously THE most informative and comprehensive video on the oil issue on the LS motor. I'm experiencing the dreaded low oil pressure issue and am praying that it's not a cam bearing. I now have the knowledge to get into this diagnosis. Question: are the oil pan gasket and the front cover gaskets reusable like the trans pan gasket and the valve cover gaskets?
Damn good video wow! I had an oil pressure problem on my 5.3 & thankfully it wasn't the cam bearings....it was an AC Delco oil filter. Oil pressure dropped down to 10psi.....(was always 50 psi).....changed it out to a WIX brand & it went back to 50 psi & has been there ever since. I dodged a bullet! God forbid I would ever have this problem but the 1st thing I'll do if it happens, I'll pull the pan off and check the bearings. Some things GM does, definitely does seem skimpy.... same with AC Delco....seems their parts are all Chinese crap now.... gonna stay with WIX brand for now. Thanks again!
Thank you very much. I got this problem with my suburban 2011. I did oil pump orring.Gasket galley And I I delete 4 cylinder 8 cylinder. Make it. It's cylinder all the time. Of course delete get. What I still have oil pressure, I believe what he said cambering.. Thank you again
When you say that a Cam bearing walked out of the block there is no coming back for the oil pressure correct. Quick rundown I have an LS to that every now and then drops oil pressure down to five psi in the engine starts making noise. Some days it’s around 20 long story short I put in oil pump in the engine a high-volume high flow pump and now while the engine is hot my oil pressure is around 40 consistently. The temperature outside is only around 45 to 50° I’m wondering if that is going to be OK in the summer time the engine has not made any noises after the oil pump was installed. Also before and after the oil pump I was running 1540 Rotella oil as recommended by a few builders.
I have found so much negativity on the forums about these engines. People are hollering up and down that it is the DOD that is the problem the car is a 2009 Pontiac G8 GT with a 6 L with 200 K on the clock. The car runs fantastic and is quiet as a mouse once it warms up the problem is every now and then it dropped oil pressure down to five or so psi that’s when it started to tick. And after installing the high flow oil pump with the factory spring that came installed the oil pressure is now consistently 40 even with the engine hot. I have had some people tell me that’s it obviously that was your problem and drive the car but I would just like to set my mind at ease. I’ve asked the question that if it was a cam bearing it would have a oil pressure all the time regardless of new pump that would make sense to me but some people were still saying that the engine is shot. What do you think. And thank you for your reply
Hey thanks for all info and circumspection. I hope it's just the pickup tube o-ring, it's not my pressure sensor. Now I can dive into it with full knowledge.
Great information! I bought a 2003 Silverado 2500 with a fresh (600 miles) build on an 8.1 that is now experiencing no oil pressure. I have not pulled the engine yet but that is my next step. It's also a Raylar 540 cu in. kit so there could be other factors. All of the reading I've done before watching your video had me to believe the most likely suspect is a cam bearing and your video reinforced that theory. Thank you for sharing your wisdom on this subject and if you have any ideas specifically about the 8.1 loss of oil pressure please let me know.
Best video about this on TH-cam. Idk how I managed to watch probably 100 others before I found this one, thank you! Will be doing my inspection in a few days. What all work should I have the machine shop do and what should I expect it to cost? I can do all the assembly myself, but haven’t had to bring a block to a machinist before. Also any good tricks to be certain of the pump relief valve if I get lucky and it’s not a cam bearing? Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful! AS far as machine shop, have them put the upgraded cam bearings in. Other than that, all the oil pressure issues you can adress without the machine shop.
Great information in this video, keep up the good work! My LS build had issues with oil pressure being extremely low, took it back to the machine shop. Hoping that its one of my cam bearings as well (even though they replaced them once already, hoping its just misaligned)
Brian I thank you so much for your video I think it’s the best most detailed I have found. I subscribed. I have low oil pressure on 2010 6.2 liter LS Yukon xl Denali . Did the whole passenger side lifter change. Put all back together drove a week and sudden oil pressure drop. New VLOM new oil pressure gave. I am thinking now O ring on pick up tube maybe oil pump and now after seeing that I’m worried it’s cam barring . Ugh . I see oil around oil pan I was think rear seal but idk if that would cause sudden loss of pressure. Idk where to go from here. Father of 6 northern nuts, cheers bro Kevin , merry Christmas
Ha northern New Jersey. Again your video was great. I’m nervous to take the oil pan down myself on Jack’s. I did the lifters but I’m dying to know about the O Ring. Or even the pump. My oil pressure was around 40 cold down to 20 and teens at idle. Then to zero suddenly. No engine noise at all but the bells and whistles going off to shut it off. It was a new oil sender switch but could it be brand new out of box broken? And that dumb lil filter? Wish I was in Utah to bring it to you. My sons Liam And Se’amus look like your Ethan, god bless, Kevin
did you get it? What was it. Im guessing a new pump with oring will fix it. If you had 20 psi, your cam bearings were where the needed to be. Unless they just popped out. Let me know
Hey Brian, so I ended up taking off the harmonic balancer, doing the oil pump. I also managed to do it without taking the oil pan down. A complete miracle, but was able to crack the pick up tube bolt with a 10mm wrench and then the trick was with a magnet that faced 90 degrees upward I slowly worked the bolt till it was out. Tied a string to it half way down so when it came out and fell into the pan I pulled it out. I replaced the O-ring, and new regular flow pump. But I modified the pump relief valve by putting about 4 washers under the spring. I also used one of the bolts off the old pump with a washer to hold the other side of the pickup tube. Perfect matching bolt. After I put it all back together. And flushed the motor two times, all of a sudden I had oil pressure up to 55 psi on start up. 193,000 miles. I believe the pump and O Ring had issues. But I also think somewhere in the bowels of the motor there was sludge. It blew through with the higher pressure and wow, pumping good. I also went up to 10W30 conventional synthetic blend oil. I don’t think full synthetic 5w30 is good for these engines. It’s just too thin. So learned some new tricks, wasn’t easy. But didn’t take the oil pan down, modified new pump, upped the weight in oil and engine flush. I don’t think the lifters will fail now when it drops the pressure with active fuel management. With the oil pump modification it never drops into the teens. So all this work has paid off for the time being. Happy New Year 2021. Thank you for your Videos. Cheers 🍻 Kevin from NJ
if you cant get the durabond teflon coated cam bearings engine tech has very nice teflon coated performance bearings i just installed a set in a 5.3 block and they fit beautifully parts cc426p for the 1998 to 2003 engines and for the later motors use the wider 04 and up cam bearings cc433wp
I just lost oil pressure in my 02 silverado (0 psi) it started making all kinds of noise on cold start this morning, it was running perfectly fine yesterday at around 45 - 50psi with no symptoms. I will use the info you gave us to try to figure this out the right way.
Good afternoon, I have just rebuilt my 5.3. I replaced just about everything from cam to pushrods, oil pump/o-ring, cam plate. I have 45-60 psi on the dash but getting very little oil coming up from the push rods. Machine shop installed the cam bearings, any thoughts?
Very, very good. Yes, some redundancies, but given these are several short videos stitched together, and for the wealth of info given, I'm not gonna complain one bit about them. Came here b/c I'm finishing up a cam swap w/ heads and general freshening up in my truck - same engine, 2003 LQ4. It had great oil pressure to begin with, but it still got a new Melling HV pump, along with a new pickup tube, since I had to take the front cover / balancer off. Anyway...I've been trying to pre-lube the motor, and not seeing oil get up to the pushrods / rocker oil holes. Enjoyed watching this, even if it didn't give me any new ideas. Looks like I'm going to work up a pressurized lubing rig, and give it another try.
Excellent video. What about the pressure relief valve in the oil pan? I saw somebody said give it one blow with a hammer or screw a bolt in it to seal it off.
Great video. Ill be looking at some of the areas and hoping it a simple o-ring fix. Cranks up and is a 24psi on cold start then drops to 15psi after being warmed up. Drives fine no noise. After a long drive start hearing lifter noises and the idle gets rough. Hoping i dont have to replace the engine.
not really. If you have a cam bearing out it will be much less. If you have two different readings top and bottom of motor you may have a plugged screen in the top of the motor. 20 is fine hot idle
My 05 5.3 has 20 lb to 30 lb , 260k, with lifters clicking more and more ,this is first youtube i checked that said anything about cam bearings. Thanks for your time .i am starting today and know to check bearings ,
My 2011 camaro L99 6.2 now has the (floating) 14-16 psi idle on hot engine 250F and 26 psi when temp is around 225F. Cold idle is 50 Psi. Oil pump and pickup tube are new. No metal signs in the oil filter. I can hear very light crank bearing sound that could be hear Only under the car. Ticking lifters sound (as usual) presents. Could you please advise is it normal ? 115K Mileage 5W30 outside temp 105F
I have a 2004 Silverado 2500 2wd. I have a leak in my radiator/engine oil cooler side that is leaking pretty good. I know they sell a oil cooler block off kit for my truck. I'm looking for a temporary fix. I don't haul any trailers or heavy loads. Will eliminating the cooler do any harm? Also is there any pressure in the oil cooler lines? I'm at 35pso all the time but it used to stay at 40psi before this leak started. Thanks for any advice you could give.
yes, oil cooler lines run at full engine oil pressure. You can delete the lines, many do. Need to get the right bypass plate to bolt on to the oil pan and your good. Just the stock one from gm, then you have to change the gasket as well they are different for both designs.
Great content! I was wondering if you have ever compared the oil pressure indicated from the front left oil port vs the rear oil sender port. Working on an '08 Yukon Hybrid 6.0 at the moment and have HOT, 1100 RPM, 54 PSI at the front port and 23 PSI at the sender. At 750 RPM, the pressures are 48 and 17-19 PSI. This is an engine that has had another shop install a high-volume oil pump and I assume pickup o-ring. Thanks for any info, Oscar.
Thanks for the video. I have 20 psi of oil pressure. I changed pressure sending unit twice, checked oil pressure with a mechanical gauge still 20 psi on cold start and decreases when warm, new oil pickup tube o'ring, then new oil pump, new valve covers Gaskets. Pulled windage tray and everything looked good. Same oil pressure throughout this process. Going to pit a permanent machanical oil pressure gauge at the side block plug by oil pump outlet. I ran it for 2 hours on the highway and stoped for gas when at idel low oil pressure warning light came on and binging. I left it running and popped the hood to look and listen. There was zero lifter tick. When i pulled the oil pan there was no sludge. Im the second owner. 180,000 miles a runs like a beast. Help any and all help would be appreciated.
This needs to be the top video for low oil pressure in an LS. I watched a pile of videos that only covered the issues with the oil pump. Turns out I had a cam bearing that walked out. Thank you so much for making this video.
Cam bearings go after running the motor with low oil pressure for too long too, I’m hoping I got mine in time 😅
Absolutely 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🌅
Best ls no oil pressure video on the tube. Thanks.
Wow, thank you!
Facts!
Hands down great video!! So I've changed the front 3 cam bearing in the frame way way less work used green lock tight and good to go on a 4x4 Tahoe !!
Hello,question for you.5.3 silverado 2wd, 3mechanics an 2k and 4months later im trying to still fix oil pressure issue,while cleaning pan i found 2nch skinny metel shavings,does that automatically mean cam bearing problem?? Or is there a chance it can still be something else? I have pan n pump droppd still,any help will be GREATLY APPRECIATED😊
@@rickybailey7123can you explain what you mean 'frame way' ??
U can pump oil into the block with the pan off and see the oil leak by the cam bearing I used my wynns fuel psi injector cleaner filled it with thin oil 5w30 and used the port in the block side front drivers and u could see the oil by passing or leaking poring out the bad cam bearing !! I wrote my comment before seeing the hole video again for the 2nd time didn't remember the first other than my previous post thanks again u have really helped alot of people with your video hats off to ya !! 🙂
This is without a doubt THE BEST video on this subject on you tube and I believe I've seen them all. Now I know. Thanks again
Wow man gotta give it to you. I’ve seen multiple and multiple of low oil pressure videos and none of them give an amazing detail on them. Really appreciate your knowledge and in your work. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
FINALLY! Somebody who understands that “pressure” is restriction to flow. 🙏Thank you!
That I do. I have this discussion with 4 cylinder turbo guys who say they run 50 psi boost to make 1k hp. I say that is a lot of heat to make that power. I can do it with 8 cylinders on 22 lbs. Lot of people think more pressure means more flow, its the exact opposite. Low pressure moves more volume, less restriction. Anyway, thanks for the comment. I love hearing feedback from viewers.
Highly educational video great job........ God bless all...
the best vedio for oil pressure had ever seen on youtube
I don't mind long winded videos when they are this informative, thank you for sharing your experience. Now I'm nervous about the cam bearings recently installed in my LS1 build. Didn't specify the wider bearings, wishing I would have after watching this. They had trouble installing the bearings in the aluminum block, told me the cam bearing bores were super tight. Hoping I'm not going to end up having to take this thing back out for another tear down anytime soon. Guess time will tell, at least I know some of the things to watch out for now. Thanks again!
glad you enjoyed it. Keep our fingers crossed for you.
Great video, I had just replace my
o-ring, oil pump and sending unit and still have low pressure. You are the first to talk about the cam bearings. And now I have one last place to look before I pull the motor. Thank you
Hi
I loved your video. I have a DOD deleted gen 4 L76 engine that is driving me nuts. I did a complete overhaul because of low oil pressure at warm idle(6-7 psi), checked with mechanical gauge. Block was sent to local machine shop for inspection, cleaning, oil galley plugs, new cam bearings and.020 overbore. New parts, reman Crankshaft with matched bearings, plastigage main and rod bearings, new non-dod stock camshaft, and new melling camshaft retaining cover, .020 piston and ring set, timing set ,new Melling 295 oil pump and new green o-ring, rivets in dod towers, plug in oil relief valve in oil pan, new oil barbell(dog bone) new lifters (lifter bores looked fine) and complete gasket set. Everything torqued to spec and used assembly lube and 30wt break in oil. Primed engine before starting. I have 60 psi at start up and still drops to 10psi at warm idle, 40 psi at 2000 rpm. runs good. During break-in the engine in (5miles) developed a valve train tick/ knock at all rpms. I pulled right side valve cover, Where the tick seemed to come from (top right side rear under intake). Run engine and have very little oil on rockers at idle. After a couple minutes at idle oil was at exhaust rockers but not at intake rockers? Pulled head and inspected lifters, Cylinder # 2 lifters showed a slight line on the rollers. the rest of the lifters showed no issues. ????? Sorry comment is so long. John
John, what did you find to be the problem? Get it fixed?
You covered all the areas and I like that.
Good video. Bought a truck to get me by fix up and sell . Low oil pressure and radely was going to just change oil pump without dropping oil pan. . Very informative and helpful appreciate that.
Glad it helped
Excellent video, great camera work and describing all the oil travels!
Extremely great video best I've seen so far I do have a question after taking an oil pressure reading right behind the pump it's about 38 lb yet I get a pressure reading of 5lbs at the sender any suggestions ⁉️I really haven't had the experience pulling one of these engines apart and I am now retired at 72 years old
Thank You for a very comprehensive explanation concerning low oil pressure causes. talked to 4 mechanics and got 4 diffrent explanations.... I WAS a ASE certified many years ago and wanted just at least another opinion.
You confirmed many things as I am of the 350 era.....built a few and found how to make more oil moving with higher rpm's... yada yada. thanks for confirming an ole guys diag.
I'm glad there are still great mechanics out there that are honest and want to share valuable info. thanks for this video.
I wish i had seen this video earlier, far more informative than the others i found on here when i was searching. I've been chasing a knock for years in an Alloy L98. I'm in Australia so its in a 2007 Holden VE SS commodore. I have spent a lot of time and money replacing everything to no avail. Last week i pulled the engine and stripped it down, found the cam bearings are stuffed, worn but luckily the didn't spin and my oil pressure wasn't catastrophically low.. Anyway its in the machine shop now for new cam bearings and a measure so hoping after all new gear the problem will be solved...The one good thing is, it has a lot of good parts in it now.
Best explanation of pressure loss I've ever seen. Awesome video bro!!
Thanks. Glad u liked it
You're the best. You know your stuff and you explain it like a pro. If you had a class I'd be in it everyday.
Great great info than you so much I supposedly replace my oil
Pump but after watching this 99% my problem is just the oring thank you and all the best!!!
This is a fantastic video and answers a lot of questions concerning Gm LS engines know oil pressure. Thankyou
Yes best LS low oil pressure video yet !!! Thanks
Wish I would have found this video 6 months ago would have saved me a ton of money! Please keep the LS truck motor videos coming
some big developments are coming very soon! I think you will like them
Thanks for the video great presentation very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely the best video explaining oil and ticking problems as well as solutions to common gm ls engine oil issues. THANK YOU
Thank you!
Wow! You’re very thorough explanations really shows you know your stuff. Thank you for helping me declare that I likely will need a rebuild due to the walking cam bearings!
I believe this what may have happened to my 2004 5.3L. For a year or two I was getting an ultra-fine golden metallic shine in my oil drain pan during oil changes. The engine ran fine and quiet with normal oil pressure. Then one morning on the way to work warning lights came on and oil press gauge went down to 10-15psi. With 245k on the engine and even after that it ran smooth and quiet but with very low oil press.
I bought a GM factory engine long block, and had it changed by the best shop in my area that has been in business since 1947. Calvert Automotive here in Denton TX. I never had it torn down to find out what failed but that explanation of cam bearing backing out and getting sliced by the crank counterweights sure looks to be what happened to mine. I'm hoping the 2020 GM factory replacement engine will do better or at least get to another 250k.
sounds like what happened . good luck
THANK YOU! BACK IN MAY ,DROPPED OIL PAN CHECKED CAM BEARINGS WHICH I WOULD NOT HAVE IF NOT FOR YOUR VIDEO ,YES NOT AS EASY AS IT SOUNDS, USE A MIRROR AND SOME TWISTING AROUND ,ALL LOOKED FINE ,ALL I DID WAS PUT A NEW ORING ON OIL PICKUP AND EXTRA BOLT AND BRACKET ,OIL PAN GASKET .NO MORE LIFTER NOISE ,OIL PRESSURE 40LBS 269K NOW AND RUNS AND SOUNDS LIKE NEW . IT IS AMAZING WHAT ONE LITTLE ORING WILL DO , HELP FRIEND WITH SAME PROBLEM ON O5 5.3 AND FIXED IT .SO IT IS NOT A CAM AND LIFTER PROBLEM! !POM THAT MY CAM BEARINGS ARE GOOD . AT 215K THIS O5 5.3 STARTED SMOKING BAD ON CRANK UP , USED QT OF OIL ABOUT EVERY 200 MILES , FOULED PLUGS, I PUT FILTER ON VALVE COVER AT DRIVERS SIDE BACK ,PLUGGED INTAKE HOLE , NOW FOR THE LAST 55K IT DOES NOT USE A HALF QT OIL IN 6000 MILES ,(MY OIL CHANGE WITH MOBIL ONE 10W30)LATER I PUT BREATHER ON OIL FILL CAP, I HAD REAR MAIN SEAL GO OUT THINKING IT NEEDED MORE BREATHING.YES, THIS IS AMAZING THAT TWO SMALL THINGS CAN FIX THESE PROBLEMS THAT I KNOW PEOPLE HAVE DONE MAJOR COSTLY ENGINE WORK!!!
so awesome. Glad I could help!
And also you're the only one in youtube exoblain, everything nicely very clear, someone sad Oil pump Orring. You are the only one it doing good video about the Oil pressure Issue thank you again
Man this is the best informational video I’ve see for the LQ4. I have a 2004 gmc 3500 6.0. It’s my van for carpet cleaning. The machine runs off a pto off the engine and not the trans. About 2 years ago I go out in the morning and out of no where check gauges light is on. 5 psi. Rev it up goes to about 25psi. No engine light. I’ve always had a sporadic idol sometimes low some times high after running my machine. That’s another issue though. So I’m driving this like this for 2 years. Never no knocking sound or ticking. Well last week I notice when I come out after the job and turn the machine off and the van Idols down the lifters are ticking. (Had oil change two weeks prior.) the noise stops by the time I’m at the next job. After the job the same thing. So a mechanic friend said to add some Lucas to the oil. When I did this the oil pressure dropped even more and once up to temp. wouldn’t go above 5 psi. So now I know there’s trouble. Still no knock or ticking. So I go to check the pickup tube o ring. Sure enough it’s dry rotted and squared. I’m thinking great a cheep fix! After install pressure is a lil stronger than it’s been in 2 years. I go to a job that’s 5 minutes away and that’s about how long it took to get to temp. Soon as it did pressure is back to 5 and lifters are ticking. I shit it down and had it towed. Now I thought oil pump pressure valve. Replaced the oil pump, still same problem. Also had already checked the sending sensor and had hooked up an independent gauge. Still same reading and there’s no screen under it for this year. I will check the cam bearings tomorrow but like I said no ticking or knocking. The only thing I’ve noticed so far is the first bearing closest to the trans. Dose have some play side to side but not up and down. From the info I’ve provided, so you have an opinion. Every mechanic I’ve talk to. Which none seem to have the specific knowledge you have on the LQ4 specifically all seem baffled that the pump didn’t fix the problem because how hard this vehicle works and there’s no knock or tic.
what did you find? if you have done a pump and oring, I would bet you have a bad cam bearing somewhere.
@@Brainstangs I replaced all the main bearings. That got me back on the road. The bearings were all scratched up. So I assume the cam bearings are the same which is where the other half of the pressure is being lost.
Thanx I learnt a lot. From South Africa
Most informative on low oil pressure i have seen, first i have seen showing the cam bearings walking out. Helped me out a lot with a 2005 Suburban i just bought and turns out to have low oil pressure ):
The best most informative video on utub about oil pressure issues,and man i have watched a LOT of them while trying to figure out my issue on 5.3silverado.. THANK YOU!!
Sir I'm an aircraft Auto and diesel mechanic who has built quite a few LS engines and I just like to say you did a fantastic job in presentation and knowledge.. thankyou
For your time!!
WOW.............GREAT Video Dude !
LOTS of GOOD Info on the GREAT LS Motors!
Bro! This video was awesome. Explains everything perfectly. Just spent three days on my 05 Cargo van trying to figure out this issue. Checked pickup tube, o-ring, even replaced the pump. Still no luck. Wish I had found this video a week ago, I would have dropped the windage tray and found the answer. Thanks for posting this!!
glad this helped you. So lame when this happens but at least now you know
Woooowww thanks for this video in a couple minutes you explained exactly how the oil runs and how it is distributed. I have looking and couldn’t find a definite explanation. 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for sharing the knowledge man I love my car but I wouldn’t have learned what I am if it hadn’t failed ty for helping out in this life lesson g
No problem 👍
So, here I am 3/2/2023 and I just Replaced my 2005 6.0 Oil pick up tube O ring, because of Oil pressure never getting to 40psi, and now I have much better Oil pressure. My Dash gauge is still surging up and down 2 to 5 Psi at constant Engine speeds and my Oil Pressure comes up when I first start the engine.. Thoughts? And, your Video is Awesome..
Sensor could be failing
@@Brainstangs Engine Oil Pressure Sensor, It's in an Odd place of course, but I will replace it..
Fantastic video my man! Dido, best low oil pressure video online by far - I have seen many in my search for answers for mine. Thank you!
I'm on my 3rd Engine in my 2005 Escalade. Changed oil with mobil one every 3,000 miles religiously and noticing Oil pressure is starting to slowly slip on this engine now too, can't catch a break. Thanks for the video, very informative!
hope your luck changes.
@@Brainstangs Thank you, as do I!
Your the MANN! Great info not the normal BS utube info. THANKS MUCH
I appreciate that! glad you learned something
Best LS Oil Pressure Video out there!
Bro. Awesome video 👏🏼 very well explained.
All really good information, all true. I've been lucky over the last 15 years of building LS's and I'll admit most of my engines have been junk yard pulls, most times they are low mileage motors and the only reason to pull the heads were to install new lifters. Any engine that leaves my garage, junkyard pull or ground up build gets a new Melling oil pump, one piece pushrods, a new LS2 timing chain and gears and a trunnion upgrade kit for the rockers. I've heard of this but it is the first time I've ever seen a cam bearing walk but I'll be looking for one now. When I hear a lifter ticking I've always traced it to a worn pushrod and rocker arm. When you disassemble it the top ball of the pushrod is worn oval destroying it and the rocker body because it had quit spinning. Hopefully my luck will hold out and with this information in hand I believe it will. Thanks.
thanks for the info on lifter tick. I have yet to encounter that. but I will look for it. Why do you feel the pushrod is rotating in the lifter cup? I knew they did on flat tappet cams as the lifter is offset ground to ensure even wear. I assumed the fixed orientation of the ls roller lifter would mean the pushrod was stationary. I'm not debating this just trying to learn. I would think the preload would keep if fixed. let me know your thoughts.
@@Brainstangs It's true the lifters remain stationary and I don't know why but on almost every LS I tear down I find 4-5 rockers where the cup in the rocker and the top of the pushrod looks like a football. The pushrod only wears front to back and quite a bit has been worn off causing a ticking noise. I always replace those rocker bodies and install one piece pushrods. Maybe it's a GM problem with the pushrod ball heat treat, I don't know but when you hear a ticking coming out of an LS it's a worn rocker and pushrod. I had that argument with my local dealer on a 2004 Silverado I had so I pulled it apart and showed him the parts. I replaced them and drove back over so that he could hear it and he reimbursed me the cost of the parts. He told me it was normal.
Wow this was a top notch video right here
I know nothing about engines but i understand everything he said in this video
You have a gift, you're a great teacher, great video!!!!
Thanks! I enjoy sharing
@@Brainstangs yes sir! I can tell lol 😊
Hey buddy, my oil pressure is low on these cold mornings but not super low like these 2 customers trucks. It does improve after some driving on the road and freeway, at times its so quiet it doesn't sound like my truck is on,since it has a stock exhaust system, lol. I have a 2007 Silverado Classic with the 4.8 v8. After watching your video my guess is it's the oil pick up tube o-ring and man your info of the lifters was very comforting and educational! That it's the air in there, not just oil that's causing that light tick/ tap/ clack. I'm definitely going to have my mechanic drop the pan (since I don't have a lift) and replace that o-ring on the pickup tube! Like I said, I don't think it's a bad cam bearing because my pressure isn't 0 and it gets better after some driving and it's so quiet at times it doesn't sound like the same engine. But while he does drop the pan I may ask him to drop the windage tray, not the covers to the crank, but just the windage tray to see if the cam bearings are as they should be, but I'm kind of nervous about that! Lol. What do you think though about all that I said, symptoms and all, what's your best guesstimate?
Very very good video. I love how knowledgeable you are. My 2011 camaro (after a warm engine) gave me a low oil pressure warning. Instead of taking it to the dealer for thousands of dollars in repair, I decided to take on the task by myself (im 17) after dropping the subframe to drop the oil pan and next opening the timing cover. I found no visible issues with the oil pump, pickup tube and o-ring. But since you have showed me all possible ways I could have issues, tomorrow I’ll be diving into more diagnostics. I took the oil pump apart and saw no damage, but I’m hoping that the relief valve is the issue. I’ll probably put a new mellings HV pump and reassemble and hope it works. Thank you for the quality video.
dont forget the simple fix too. It very well could be a clogged screen in the valley plate under the oil pressure sensor. If you have dod or afm as its known, shuts down to four cylinder, one, tune it out, two remove the oil pressure sender and pull the screen. You only need the screen under there if you keeping dod. If you delete it with a tune, then pull the screen. lastly put a new sender in. You got this.
U
Mason rollow did you get your car fixed. What u have to do
Most incredible and thorough explanation and video I have ever seen on YT or anywhere else! I have an 05 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD 5.3 Vortec with low oil pressure but the thing runs awesome. Just a basic ext cab long bed pick up truck, no frills. I changed the oil sending unit twice and confirmed low oil pressure with a manual guage. Anyway thanks for the vid. I'm about to tear it down (again) and install a new high volume Melling oil pump, pick up tube, new o ring etc and see if I can't get some oil pressure. Why does the oil pick up tube use only one bolt to secure it to the pump on one side? Seems like that's inviting an air leak to me. One of those mysteries of life I suppose.
the one bolt has no bearing on sealing of the oring. You only need one bolt. You will see that it just holds a plate down flat which keeps the oring happy. Good luck
@@Brainstangs ok , thanks for the reply.
Great video! My oil pressure dropped and I was hoping it was an oring but was worries about failed lifters or plastic lifter trays but your explanation of air in the oil giving ticking noises gives me hope. Also, great advice on checking the cam bearings. Thanks 🙏
I like these videos. So informative 👏 👌
I do a lot these engine's and I put a standard and one over to tighten up the oil clearance works great
Great job 👏 thanks for your time and information 👍!!
My pleasure!
This is the most important video I’ve watched since I started researching my oil pressure issue in my 06 Silverado 1500. I think I’m losing prime via the o ring. It primes up but after it warms up the pressure drops quickly and the lifters start ticking due to oil starvation. Thanks for all this information.
happy to help. Let me know what you find
The O-ring was in pretty bad shape, so I stopped there and put it back together. I did take a look at the bearings as you suggested from underneath. As far as I could tell, they looked fine. Thanks for that tip by the way. The O-ring seems to have solved my oil pressure issue, fixed my startup noise, and my lifter tick once up to temperature. I did run the truck on a downhill slope beforehand(12 degree slope measured with my iPhone), and noticed the pressure improved. When the truck was pointed uphill or level it would lose pressure fast and the lifters got angry. Everything pointed to the O-ring, but your video had me prepared to check everything. 260K miles and counting! Thanks for the great video!
You were very helpful thank you for sharing your expertise!
Awesome video Great presentation
I wish I saw this video 2 days ago! I’m dealing with some pressure issues right now and probably overlooked some of the points you mentioned here! Either way, great video man!
Good video. I normally skim through long videos cause it's 90% talking about what wasn't the issue or what else they did that day walk the dog etc. Before they get to the point. I had to watch the whole thing through here. It was truly useful information. Even about the piston rod upgrades to the lq4 in 05 up. I finally got a pretty good idea of what im going to end up doing with my 03 2500hd. I wish it popped up on my search before when I did the o ring. I don't want to drop the pan again so I'm going to end up pulling the motor and rebuild or replace anyway. I notice a misfire when I first drive when it's cold and was led to believe possibly rings. But regardless the motor has 300+k miles so its do for a full teardown rebuild. I'll def be shooting for some upgrades if I'm going this far since I won't be going on that motor by choice a second time. Thanks for making a good video.
This is best video I’ve seen on oil pressure!!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥No more videos???????
I will have some more very soon. I have been bad sorry. like within a week. It will be cool. I promise
@@Brainstangs ok cool bro!!💪🏿💪🏿
the only one video i found that have all the exactly information i need and look for thank you so much of course i subscribe
Seriously THE most informative and comprehensive video on the oil issue on the LS motor. I'm experiencing the dreaded low oil pressure issue and am praying that it's not a cam bearing. I now have the knowledge to get into this diagnosis.
Question: are the oil pan gasket and the front cover gaskets reusable like the trans pan gasket and the valve cover gaskets?
They are but in my opinion not with it. They flatten out and sometimes leak. Best of luck
No long winded.....informative.
What a fantastic video, subbed and shared I'll be watching this several times.
Great information on the subject!!!!
Damn good video wow! I had an oil pressure problem on my 5.3 & thankfully it wasn't the cam bearings....it was an AC Delco oil filter. Oil pressure dropped down to 10psi.....(was always 50 psi).....changed it out to a WIX brand & it went back to 50 psi & has been there ever since. I dodged a bullet! God forbid I would ever have this problem but the 1st thing I'll do if it happens, I'll pull the pan off and check the bearings. Some things GM does, definitely does seem skimpy.... same with AC Delco....seems their parts are all Chinese crap now.... gonna stay with WIX brand for now. Thanks again!
Thank you very much. I got this problem with my suburban 2011. I did oil pump orring.Gasket galley And I I delete 4 cylinder 8 cylinder. Make it. It's cylinder all the time. Of course delete get. What I still have oil pressure, I believe what he said cambering.. Thank you again
When you say that a Cam bearing walked out of the block there is no coming back for the oil pressure correct. Quick rundown I have an LS to that every now and then drops oil pressure down to five psi in the engine starts making noise. Some days it’s around 20 long story short I put in oil pump in the engine a high-volume high flow pump and now while the engine is hot my oil pressure is around 40 consistently. The temperature outside is only around 45 to 50° I’m wondering if that is going to be OK in the summer time the engine has not made any noises after the oil pump was installed. Also before and after the oil pump I was running 1540 Rotella oil as recommended by a few builders.
Your cam bearings are fine then. It was all in your pump
I have found so much negativity on the forums about these engines. People are hollering up and down that it is the DOD that is the problem the car is a 2009 Pontiac G8 GT with a 6 L with 200 K on the clock. The car runs fantastic and is quiet as a mouse once it warms up the problem is every now and then it dropped oil pressure down to five or so psi that’s when it started to tick. And after installing the high flow oil pump with the factory spring that came installed the oil pressure is now consistently 40 even with the engine hot. I have had some people tell me that’s it obviously that was your problem and drive the car but I would just like to set my mind at ease. I’ve asked the question that if it was a cam bearing it would have a oil pressure all the time regardless of new pump that would make sense to me but some people were still saying that the engine is shot. What do you think. And thank you for your reply
@@danielv508 pump 4 sure. Drive on and feel confident u got it.
you the man - thank you for making this. excellent work.
Hey thanks for all info and circumspection. I hope it's just the pickup tube o-ring, it's not my pressure sensor. Now I can dive into it with full knowledge.
Great information! I bought a 2003 Silverado 2500 with a fresh (600 miles) build on an 8.1 that is now experiencing no oil pressure. I have not pulled the engine yet but that is my next step. It's also a Raylar 540 cu in. kit so there could be other factors. All of the reading I've done before watching your video had me to believe the most likely suspect is a cam bearing and your video reinforced that theory. Thank you for sharing your wisdom on this subject and if you have any ideas specifically about the 8.1 loss of oil pressure please let me know.
the same concepts apply across that platform as well. good luck
Best video about this on TH-cam. Idk how I managed to watch probably 100 others before I found this one, thank you! Will be doing my inspection in a few days. What all work should I have the machine shop do and what should I expect it to cost? I can do all the assembly myself, but haven’t had to bring a block to a machinist before. Also any good tricks to be certain of the pump relief valve if I get lucky and it’s not a cam bearing? Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful! AS far as machine shop, have them put the upgraded cam bearings in. Other than that, all the oil pressure issues you can adress without the machine shop.
Fantastic! Grateful you shared with us!
Thank you. This was very informative. 🇨🇦🤘
Glad it was helpful!
Good video, great inspection, good repair, thanks. Now do mine, LOL.
Great information in this video, keep up the good work! My LS build had issues with oil pressure being extremely low, took it back to the machine shop. Hoping that its one of my cam bearings as well (even though they replaced them once already, hoping its just misaligned)
Excellent info
Thank you🎉🎉🎉🎉
Awesome video m8. Explained perfectly👍
Glad it helped
Brian I thank you so much for your video I think it’s the best most detailed I have found. I subscribed. I have low oil pressure on 2010 6.2 liter LS Yukon xl Denali . Did the whole passenger side lifter change. Put all back together drove a week and sudden oil pressure drop. New VLOM new oil pressure gave. I am thinking now O ring on pick up tube maybe oil pump and now after seeing that I’m worried it’s cam barring . Ugh . I see oil around oil pan I was think rear seal but idk if that would cause sudden loss of pressure. Idk where to go from here. Father of 6 northern nuts, cheers bro Kevin , merry Christmas
Ha northern New Jersey. Again your video was great. I’m nervous to take the oil pan down myself on Jack’s. I did the lifters but I’m dying to know about the O Ring. Or even the pump. My oil pressure was around 40 cold down to 20 and teens at idle. Then to zero suddenly. No engine noise at all but the bells and whistles going off to shut it off. It was a new oil sender switch but could it be brand new out of box broken? And that dumb lil filter? Wish I was in Utah to bring it to you. My sons Liam And Se’amus look like your Ethan, god bless, Kevin
did you get it? What was it. Im guessing a new pump with oring will fix it. If you had 20 psi, your cam bearings were where the needed to be. Unless they just popped out. Let me know
Hey Brian, so I ended up taking off the harmonic balancer, doing the oil pump. I also managed to do it without taking the oil pan down. A complete miracle, but was able to crack the pick up tube bolt with a 10mm wrench and then the trick was with a magnet that faced 90 degrees upward I slowly worked the bolt till it was out. Tied a string to it half way down so when it came out and fell into the pan I pulled it out. I replaced the O-ring, and new regular flow pump. But I modified the pump relief valve by putting about 4 washers under the spring. I also used one of the bolts off the old pump with a washer to hold the other side of the pickup tube. Perfect matching bolt. After I put it all back together. And flushed the motor two times, all of a sudden I had oil pressure up to 55 psi on start up. 193,000 miles. I believe the pump and O Ring had issues. But I also think somewhere in the bowels of the motor there was sludge. It blew through with the higher pressure and wow, pumping good. I also went up to 10W30 conventional synthetic blend oil. I don’t think full synthetic 5w30 is good for these engines. It’s just too thin. So learned some new tricks, wasn’t easy. But didn’t take the oil pan down, modified new pump, upped the weight in oil and engine flush. I don’t think the lifters will fail now when it drops the pressure with active fuel management. With the oil pump modification it never drops into the teens. So all this work has paid off for the time being. Happy New Year 2021. Thank you for your Videos. Cheers 🍻 Kevin from NJ
if you cant get the durabond teflon coated cam bearings engine tech has very nice teflon coated performance bearings i just installed a set in a 5.3 block and they fit beautifully parts cc426p for the 1998 to 2003 engines and for the later motors use the wider 04 and up cam bearings cc433wp
I just lost oil pressure in my 02 silverado (0 psi) it started making all kinds of noise on cold start this morning, it was running perfectly fine yesterday at around 45 - 50psi with no symptoms. I will use the info you gave us to try to figure this out the right way.
Go lookup the LS engine for piston slap(some pistons are cam ground so they seat properly when hot...
im sure its a pump or oring issue. Let me know what you find
You’re the man. Thanks
Glad to help. did you pinpoint your issue?
Good afternoon, I have just rebuilt my 5.3. I replaced just about everything from cam to pushrods, oil pump/o-ring, cam plate. I have 45-60 psi on the dash but getting very little oil coming up from the push rods. Machine shop installed the cam bearings, any thoughts?
I have the same problem with the oil pressure thanks for the videos
Glad to help
Very good!! Helpful 👌👍
thank you for your video, it was very helpful.
Very, very good. Yes, some redundancies, but given these are several short videos stitched together, and for the wealth of info given, I'm not gonna complain one bit about them.
Came here b/c I'm finishing up a cam swap w/ heads and general freshening up in my truck - same engine, 2003 LQ4. It had great oil pressure to begin with, but it still got a new Melling HV pump, along with a new pickup tube, since I had to take the front cover / balancer off.
Anyway...I've been trying to pre-lube the motor, and not seeing oil get up to the pushrods / rocker oil holes. Enjoyed watching this, even if it didn't give me any new ideas.
Looks like I'm going to work up a pressurized lubing rig, and give it another try.
glad you liked it. Hope yours goes well
Excellent video. What about the pressure relief valve in the oil pan? I saw somebody said give it one blow with a hammer or screw a bolt in it to seal it off.
I delete them. Just get a plug at the hardware store
I agree this the best informative video thank you
Is it possible to change out cam bearing at home dyi
you can if you have the tools but not without stripping the motor down, pulling it out of the car. good luck
Great video. Ill be looking at some of the areas and hoping it a simple o-ring fix. Cranks up and is a 24psi on cold start then drops to 15psi after being warmed up. Drives fine no noise. After a long drive start hearing lifter noises and the idle gets rough. Hoping i dont have to replace the engine.
If you have a cam bearing walking out can you have 20 pounds hot idle at the filter and five up top at the sending unit. Thank you
not really. If you have a cam bearing out it will be much less. If you have two different readings top and bottom of motor you may have a plugged screen in the top of the motor. 20 is fine hot idle
Great video, that you.
My 05 5.3 has 20 lb to 30 lb , 260k, with lifters clicking more and more ,this is first youtube i checked that said anything about cam bearings. Thanks for your time .i am starting today and know to check bearings ,
hope you got it solved. I hope my video helped
My 2011 camaro L99 6.2 now has the (floating) 14-16 psi idle on hot engine 250F and 26 psi when temp is around 225F. Cold idle is 50 Psi. Oil pump and pickup tube are new. No metal signs in the oil filter. I can hear very light crank bearing sound that could be hear Only under the car. Ticking lifters sound (as usual) presents. Could you please advise is it normal ? 115K Mileage 5W30 outside temp 105F
that wouldn't bother me.
I have a 2004 Silverado 2500 2wd. I have a leak in my radiator/engine oil cooler side that is leaking pretty good. I know they sell a oil cooler block off kit for my truck. I'm looking for a temporary fix. I don't haul any trailers or heavy loads. Will eliminating the cooler do any harm? Also is there any pressure in the oil cooler lines? I'm at 35pso all the time but it used to stay at 40psi before this leak started. Thanks for any advice you could give.
yes, oil cooler lines run at full engine oil pressure. You can delete the lines, many do. Need to get the right bypass plate to bolt on to the oil pan and your good. Just the stock one from gm, then you have to change the gasket as well they are different for both designs.
Great content! I was wondering if you have ever compared the oil pressure indicated from the front left oil port vs the rear oil sender port. Working on an '08 Yukon Hybrid 6.0 at the moment and have HOT, 1100 RPM, 54 PSI at the front port and 23 PSI at the sender. At 750 RPM, the pressures are 48 and 17-19 PSI. This is an engine that has had another shop install a high-volume oil pump and I assume pickup o-ring. Thanks for any info, Oscar.
Did you ever determine the cause of the differential?
Sadly, no. If I remember correctly, the customer took the vehicle away.@@kincaidjeff
> Coughs through out video
> "Got a cough all of a sudden"
"Ahhh shit, dude got the 'rona" lol
Outstanding information though! Thank you!
Thanks for the info I just pull the oil pan on an05 silverado and I'm going to check if the bering come out of the board
Update on my engine #4 cam bearing came of and the main bearing are scratch
Thanks for the video. I have 20 psi of oil pressure. I changed pressure sending unit twice, checked oil pressure with a mechanical gauge still 20 psi on cold start and decreases when warm, new oil pickup tube o'ring, then new oil pump, new valve covers Gaskets. Pulled windage tray and everything looked good. Same oil pressure throughout this process. Going to pit a permanent machanical oil pressure gauge at the side block plug by oil pump outlet. I ran it for 2 hours on the highway and stoped for gas when at idel low oil pressure warning light came on and binging. I left it running and popped the hood to look and listen. There was zero lifter tick. When i pulled the oil pan there was no sludge. Im the second owner. 180,000 miles a runs like a beast. Help any and all help would be appreciated.