Answer to your question is....yes the bypass pretty much stays open all the time at anything over 15lbs. so yes at 40 and lets face it, race engines usually run WAY above that (sometimes 70 to 80 psi or more at high RPM), at least half of the oil or more is blowing past the bypass valve unfiltered. I plug every bypass that leaves this shop (except on some stock engines) and tell my customers to use a Wix filter and a race engine I demand a Wix Racing filter (yes the Wix Racing filters less micron, but flow better and wont collapse)...You are giving great advice there for sure. It should be noted that almost all filters have a safety bypass built into them anyway. The key is, with 38yrs of race engine building behind me....Run a good filter and plug the bypass. Great video!
We plugged the bypass on our midwest asphalt circle track race car. But there was one potential problem with running the heavy 20W50 racing oil. One night near the end of the season, the temperature dropped into the low 50's and one of our competitors started his engine to warm it up. He immediately revved it really high and blew the oil filter apart. We never knew if it was a cheap oil filter or what was the cause of the failure. We took it as a lesson learned and kept the engine warm between heat races on cold nights.
i have heard of that happing but never seen it but its something to think about but thanks for the heads up i will keep a eye on it couse i do run 20w50 but when we race its hot out
Very simple. For stock engines. 1. block your vehicles bypass! 2. for fresh engines use a top quality filter with biggest filtering area and no bypass. Replace filter and oil after 2-3 short intervals, i.e. 200m, 500m, 1000m. 3. Use top quality filter with bypass after that and frequently replace oil and filter together every 2000-4000miles. 4. Use Manufacturer specified oil if available, otherwise proper research backed premium brand matching oil. 5. don’t ever flush/additivise oil or gas. Top quality oil and gas treats contamination as it should be. If your engine is Hotrodded the expert of manufacture is your responsibility now. Good Luck if you’re a beginner. A big learning curve will be ahead.
Cold thick oil could starve the engine. The filter has a bypass too. I put a washer under the spring to make it stiffer and they sell stiffer springs for hp use.
I think that bypass valve works when the difference in pressure from the dirty side to the clean side is 10 psi, so if you have a clean filter and oil and your engine is making 50 psi then it's 50 psi on both sides of the filter and valve stays closed. As you put miles on the oil and it starts to get dirty and the filter is loading up with contaminants, you may start to get 50 psi on the dirty side and 48 on the clean side, keep running it and that difference starts to increase. Once the difference gets to 10 psi that valve will open and let some dirty oil "bypass" the filter and go the the engine. The key is to change oil/filter before that happens.
In my humble opinion. Bypass valves are for the general public. In racing applications, it’s very different. When racing engines are built, they have to go through break in procedures that require a certain amount of attention. Fresh engines require camshaft and ring break in procedures that creates a lot of fine particulates in the break in oil that needs to be captured. It can take as many as two to four oil changes to properly break in a race or high performance engine, depending on what type of camshaft you’re running. Rollers fewer than flat tappits. This is actually a subject for high performance engines. I hope this helps a bit.
Always block it off on High Performance and on new engines.👍👍 On stock engines after break-in if you like you can re-install the bypass. Just subscribed to your channel. Have a great weekend.
Well you have an additional problem if you block off the bypass valve. And that is the risk of blowing the oil filter apart, and before anyone ask. Yes you can blow up an oil filter, or split an oil filter if the oil pump builds more pressure than what the oil filter is physically capable of handling. I have only ever seen that happen on one engine, in one vehicle which was a 1970 something Ford F-100 dent side which the engine was either a 302 or a 390 in it. The truck belonged to my father, and it had a faulty oil pump in it that caused the engine to build so much oil pressure it split the oil filter.
Chevy is 1/4" npt. If you do it you should run a 396 truck filter or a remote adapter and something like a HP6 or equivelent to have enough flow volume. On a regular passenger daily. The bypass is ok to have. They often run open. In a serious hi perf application. They should be plugged and a huge filter used.
Isn't it a "differential pressure " bypass? So if the Filter causes more than 10psi "pressure drop" Some will bypass the filter? Not a situation where it opens after 10 psi of engine oil pressure
I don't think plugging the bypass matters that much. Most oil filters have a built-in bypass,so they don't bulge, leak,or worse. The filter is probably almost never filtering 100% of the oil going through it. The higher the oil pressure goes, the more oil gets bypassed around the oil filter element inside the filter. So you can go ahead and plug the bypass,but you're never gonna get 100% of the oil to go through the oil filter. It starts bypassing the filter element at as low as 20psi. Don't believe me? Look inside any oil filter, and you'll see a spring and a rubber diaphragm. When there's greater than about 20 psi of oil pressure on it,it begins to press on the spring and let the oil be diverted around the filter element because the oil can't go through the element fast enough. The filter would leak or burst if it didn't have this feature.
Personally I like to block them in a performance application. However if you're going to do that it would seem wise to look for the biggest filter you can fit WITHOUT a bypass listed in the specifications. Some places have to special order that. It's funny to me the amount of people who think they are getting straight filtered oil when they block that passage only to install a filter with a built in bypass. The redundancy does them in. Filters with no bypass also normally focus on getting volume through the filter so they aren't the greatest at filtering the finest particulates. It's a balancing act. You also have to remember to take it easy while warming up the engine/ oil or it may spring a leak with high oil psi. There could also be the possibility of tearing the filter material or separating the joined ends at cold start. Torn filter material is likely to only be found when the filter is dissected.
run a screen on top the oil filter,, I'm thinking moroso makes them,,,,break your engine in then remove screen and see if you have medal or whatever in the screen!!! works great
It only opens when there is 10 lbs of pressure difference/restriction, not 10 lbs per square inch. So, yuh 50 weight in the cold, bypass: plugged up filter, bypass. But most filters bypass too. Normal filters bypass internally, and if they ever bypass it's only by their differential amount. So there is still filtering happening with "some" oil going around the filter. I understand your reasoning for the bypass on race and performance engines though.
Hi, thanks, I have a lt4 in a Camaro, GM sells two oil filers for that motor, and the upgraded one has a higher bypass pressure in the filter itself... What does that mean?? I think the normal one is 15 psi and the upgrade one is 25...PLEASE HELP...Dave
Most but not all. Seems most filters with no built in bypass focus mainly on getting volume passed so they sacrifice by not filtering the smallest particulates. The balancing act.
I learned this trick in the late 70's when I saw it described in Bill Jenkins' engine book. Use the largest filter you can get (Fram PH373 or equivalent) or maybe multiple filters to maximize filtering capacity.
Answer to your question is....yes the bypass pretty much stays open all the time at anything over 15lbs. so yes at 40 and lets face it, race engines usually run WAY above that (sometimes 70 to 80 psi or more at high RPM), at least half of the oil or more is blowing past the bypass valve unfiltered. I plug every bypass that leaves this shop (except on some stock engines) and tell my customers to use a Wix filter and a race engine I demand a Wix Racing filter (yes the Wix Racing filters less micron, but flow better and wont collapse)...You are giving great advice there for sure. It should be noted that almost all filters have a safety bypass built into them anyway. The key is, with 38yrs of race engine building behind me....Run a good filter and plug the bypass. Great video!
thanks well said
We plugged the bypass on our midwest asphalt circle track race car. But there was one potential problem with running the heavy 20W50 racing oil. One night near the end of the season, the temperature dropped into the low 50's and one of our competitors started his engine to warm it up. He immediately revved it really high and blew the oil filter apart. We never knew if it was a cheap oil filter or what was the cause of the failure. We took it as a lesson learned and kept the engine warm between heat races on cold nights.
i have heard of that happing but never seen it but its something to think about but thanks for the heads up i will keep a eye on it couse i do run 20w50 but when we race its hot out
The bypass won't do that. A suck pressure regulator in pump will
Very simple. For stock engines.
1. block your vehicles bypass!
2. for fresh engines use a top quality filter with biggest filtering area and no bypass. Replace filter and oil after 2-3 short intervals, i.e. 200m, 500m, 1000m.
3. Use top quality filter with bypass after that and frequently replace oil and filter together every 2000-4000miles.
4. Use Manufacturer specified oil if available, otherwise proper research backed premium brand matching oil.
5. don’t ever flush/additivise oil or gas. Top quality oil and gas treats contamination as it should be. If your engine is Hotrodded the expert of manufacture is your responsibility now. Good Luck if you’re a beginner. A big learning curve will be ahead.
Cold thick oil could starve the engine. The filter has a bypass too. I put a washer under the spring to make it stiffer and they sell stiffer springs for hp use.
I think that bypass valve works when the difference in pressure from the dirty side to the clean side is 10 psi, so if you have a clean filter and oil and your engine is making 50 psi then it's 50 psi on both sides of the filter and valve stays closed. As you put miles on the oil and it starts to get dirty and the filter is loading up with contaminants, you may start to get 50 psi on the dirty side and 48 on the clean side, keep running it and that difference starts to increase. Once the difference gets to 10 psi that valve will open and let some dirty oil "bypass" the filter and go the the engine. The key is to change oil/filter before that happens.
well said
In my humble opinion. Bypass valves are for the general public. In racing applications, it’s very different. When racing engines are built, they have to go through break in procedures that require a certain amount of attention. Fresh engines require camshaft and ring break in procedures that creates a lot of fine particulates in the break in oil that needs to be captured. It can take as many as two to four oil changes to properly break in a race or high performance engine, depending on what type of camshaft you’re running. Rollers fewer than flat tappits.
This is actually a subject for high performance engines. I hope this helps a bit.
Always block it off on High Performance and on new engines.👍👍
On stock engines after break-in if you like you can re-install the bypass.
Just subscribed to your channel.
Have a great weekend.
thanks for the comment
and thanks for subscribing
Well you have an additional problem if you block off the bypass valve. And that is the risk of blowing the oil filter apart, and before anyone ask. Yes you can blow up an oil filter, or split an oil filter if the oil pump builds more pressure than what the oil filter is physically capable of handling. I have only ever seen that happen on one engine, in one vehicle which was a 1970 something Ford F-100 dent side which the engine was either a 302 or a 390 in it. The truck belonged to my father, and it had a faulty oil pump in it that caused the engine to build so much oil pressure it split the oil filter.
thanks for the comment and thats something to keep in mind for sure
Chevy is 1/4" npt.
If you do it you should run a 396 truck filter or a remote adapter and something like a HP6 or equivelent to have enough flow volume. On a regular passenger daily. The bypass is ok to have. They often run open. In a serious hi perf application. They should be plugged and a huge filter used.
sorry i did say the wrong size tap but thanks for the comment
Isn't it a "differential pressure " bypass? So if the Filter causes more than 10psi "pressure drop" Some will bypass the filter?
Not a situation where it opens after 10 psi of engine oil pressure
Correct
I don't think plugging the bypass matters that much. Most oil filters have a built-in bypass,so they don't bulge, leak,or worse. The filter is probably almost never filtering 100% of the oil going through it. The higher the oil pressure goes, the more oil gets bypassed around the oil filter element inside the filter. So you can go ahead and plug the bypass,but you're never gonna get 100% of the oil to go through the oil filter. It starts bypassing the filter element at as low as 20psi. Don't believe me? Look inside any oil filter, and you'll see a spring and a rubber diaphragm. When there's greater than about 20 psi of oil pressure on it,it begins to press on the spring and let the oil be diverted around the filter element because the oil can't go through the element fast enough. The filter would leak or burst if it didn't have this feature.
Personally I like to block them in a performance application. However if you're going to do that it would seem wise to look for the biggest filter you can fit WITHOUT a bypass listed in the specifications. Some places have to special order that.
It's funny to me the amount of people who think they are getting straight filtered oil when they block that passage only to install a filter with a built in bypass. The redundancy does them in.
Filters with no bypass also normally focus on getting volume through the filter so they aren't the greatest at filtering the finest particulates. It's a balancing act.
You also have to remember to take it easy while warming up the engine/ oil or it may spring a leak with high oil psi. There could also be the possibility of tearing the filter material or separating the joined ends at cold start. Torn filter material is likely to only be found when the filter is dissected.
I think it’s important in cold environments when the oil is too thick to be pushed through the filter. It’s definitely there for a reason.
i appreciate all the comments hearing other peoples ideas help us learn from there experiences
run a screen on top the oil filter,, I'm thinking moroso makes them,,,,break your engine in then remove screen and see if you have medal or whatever in the screen!!! works great
@@lylejohnson7281 no I didn't know they made that good info thanks
Never really thought about it by passing but what I've done for a lot of years is change just my filter between oil changes
that will work thank for the comment
You would be surprised how much unfiltered oil goes through your engine.
It only opens when there is 10 lbs of pressure difference/restriction, not 10 lbs per square inch. So, yuh 50 weight in the cold, bypass: plugged up filter, bypass. But most filters bypass too. Normal filters bypass internally, and if they ever bypass it's only by their differential amount. So there is still filtering happening with "some" oil going around the filter. I understand your reasoning for the bypass on race and performance engines though.
By the way, you have a new subscriber!
thanks for subscribing
Hi, thanks, I have a lt4 in a Camaro, GM sells two oil filers for that motor, and the upgraded one has a higher bypass pressure in the filter itself... What does that mean?? I think the normal one is 15 psi and the upgrade one is 25...PLEASE HELP...Dave
Install the biggest one that fits.
Higher pressure can cause leaks because it puts that higher pressure behind the seals
The filters have a by pass.
Most oil filters have a biult in bypass now
Most but not all. Seems most filters with no built in bypass focus mainly on getting volume passed so they sacrifice by not filtering the smallest particulates. The balancing act.
I learned this trick in the late 70's when I saw it described in Bill Jenkins' engine book. Use the largest filter you can get (Fram PH373 or equivalent) or maybe multiple filters to maximize filtering capacity.
More filters and oil coolers reduces oil flow
I deleted my oil cooler and it flows better.
One more thing. Motors are electric. 😊
Many others should learn that.