You play the part of a machinist so well. Very convincing. All kidding aside, give yourself credit for being able to figure a way to do things with what you have on hand. I am confident that you will get the results that you need!
You can check the face with the indicator even with an interrupted reading, set the tip 10-15deg off vertical at cutting height, and half way between the sleeve and the weld. keep up the good work!
Good morning Dale. I like your solution there. I cleaned up my own cylinder on the intake and exhaust side , leaving the base and top to a machinist. I’ll send you a short video on some sanding later, church needed a fill in volunteer to transport I think to a food bank.
Step 1 cut recess. Step 2 place cylinder head in recess to align it. Step 3 use transfer punch to transfer holes in fixture. Step 4 use small drill to pickup transfer spot. No need for cardboard template. 👍
Hi Dale, Back in 80's I remember doing something very similar on an RM 250 cylinder, mounted almost exactly the same but on alloy plate as it wasn't going to be used multiple times. ( I did T305 as well, probably 2013~14?) Made a flanged mandrel to fit in bore for tail-stock support, was afraid a bull nose center would put too much strain on spigot and crack it. Used a piece of 6061, about 3-1/2" diameter. The 250, I took about 0.040" off to lower all the ports then carved them back to correct port timing, seemed a better method than grinding ports lower, re-shaping transfers can be a PITA raising ports is 'easier' due to angles needed (did a 'dry fit' with gasket, Wiseco piston was 'low') 305 was only 0.010"~0.012", got both cylinders same height plus piston level with top of cylinder (better than new 😎)
Sounds like you nailed it. It just makes me nervous cutting material off the bottom. But I think your solution to cut the ports back down was the right one. Nice, I like to hear how others deal with a problem like that.
Nice set-up Dale. Just unsure if face of your fixture remained square after being removed to add the cylinder. Also,that is a standard equally spaced bolt circle, your DRO should give you the XY coordinates for each hole location, if not the machinist handbook or online. Just indicate the bore, no transferring holes and very accurate.
Gary......you are talking to a rookie here; I wish I had the understanding of the DRO for every function, but I don't. Right now, it has to be basic stuff like the half function. The bolt holes really don't need to be accurate because the cylinder centers on the sleeve that sticks out of the top of the cylinder. In this case they just hold it on. I need a guy like you to teach me all that stuff, I'm just a rookie.
Would highly recommend getting some machinable soft jaws for your lathe chuck. This will help in the process of indicating in your parts in the future, will explain later.
I have some that I made, just usually use them when I don't want to mar something. But if you think about it, it will permit the item to move easier. You sold me on the idea.
Yes! You can move it if you have to. But goal is NOT to have to indicate after you bore the soft jaws to the same diameter as your fixture. I'll explain the process when your ready.
I made a similar adapter for a big bore in a 125 4 stroke, but mounts in the other side of the cylinder, supports the sleeve as it gets thin with the big bore.
Hi Dale. Nice job on that fixture, always good when you can reuse something that’s laying around, saves a ton of work. Also the damage on the base of the cylinder, although it won’t hurt it doesn’t necessarily have to be welded up, you could always face it to nice clean flat surface then just run an extra gasket to make up for the material loss. Just another option. Thanks for a great video Dale, I’m really enjoying this RM series. See ya on the next one
Yes, I wish I had some mandrels, I am just a hobby guy I don't have all that stuff a job shop would have. But I am sure it would be a lot better and simple. This is the only one I have ever done, and don't anticipate doing any more. Thank you for the suggestion I sure appreciate it.
morning Dale why not set it up in the mill weld it and then machine off the welds there instead of trying to spin it in the lathe? i'm a 70 year old dirt biker retired auto mechanic and very amateur machinist but love to do it, i love you shop i have toy stuff compaired to yours but hoping to upgrade sometime soon
Hey Larry, it sure could be done on the mill, think I would have needed to order a longer mill bit though. So, I just used what I had. Sounds like we are a lot alike. I just enjoy piddling around in the shop. Keeps the old brain working you know.
Not sure, something to ponder though. Turned out on this one the top of the sleeve wasn't all that even. But who knows if the bolt surface was or not. It seemed to have worked out. Probably lucky.
Morning Dale, 4:40am here.I just got to work and settling down to watch what you are doing in this episode.
Thanks buddy
You play the part of a machinist so well. Very convincing. All kidding aside, give yourself credit for being able to figure a way to do things with what you have on hand. I am confident that you will get the results that you need!
Thanks Pete, I really am a rookie machinist, but am trying to learn as I go. Thanks for spending time in the shop with me.
"I am not a machinist". I beg to differ. Yes, you are!! Very creative and clever. Well done, Dale!! You've saved another one!
Your too kind my friend. Thank you!
You can check the face with the indicator even with an interrupted reading, set the tip 10-15deg off vertical at cutting height, and half way between the sleeve and the weld. keep up the good work!
Thank you, not sure what you are telling me, but I'm sure you are right.
great little adapter that dale multi purpose great job as always keep up the great work next video please
Yes sir, it's always great when you can repurpose stuff.
Good morning Dale. I like your solution there. I cleaned up my own cylinder on the intake and exhaust side , leaving the base and top to a machinist. I’ll send you a short video on some sanding later, church needed a fill in volunteer to transport I think to a food bank.
Thanks James just can't believe what folks do to ruin a part. Oh well, it's fun to fix stuff like this.
Nice job Dale. Looking forward to seeing it progress. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks buddy, it's a fun project. Its maxing out my brain functions here.
Thanks Dale, you're videos are fantastic.
Thanks Jeff, sure appreciate you spending time in the shop with me.
Nice work Dale. Can't wait for the next video.
Cheers, Peter.
Hi Peter, me too, hope I can pull it off.
Good morning Dale I am Here ready to learn keep up the good work.
Thanks Mark, glad your here.
Step 1 cut recess. Step 2 place cylinder head in recess to align it. Step 3 use transfer punch to transfer holes in fixture. Step 4 use small drill to pickup transfer spot. No need for cardboard template. 👍
Great idea
Hi Dale,
Back in 80's I remember doing something very similar on an RM 250 cylinder, mounted almost exactly the same but on alloy plate as it wasn't going to be used multiple times. ( I did T305 as well, probably 2013~14?)
Made a flanged mandrel to fit in bore for tail-stock support, was afraid a bull nose center would put too much strain on spigot and crack it.
Used a piece of 6061, about 3-1/2" diameter.
The 250, I took about 0.040" off to lower all the ports then carved them back to correct port timing, seemed a better method than grinding ports lower, re-shaping transfers can be a PITA raising ports is 'easier' due to angles needed (did a 'dry fit' with gasket, Wiseco piston was 'low')
305 was only 0.010"~0.012", got both cylinders same height plus piston level with top of cylinder (better than new 😎)
Sounds like you nailed it. It just makes me nervous cutting material off the bottom. But I think your solution to cut the ports back down was the right one. Nice, I like to hear how others deal with a problem like that.
Any way you can works. I use an expanding mandrel.
Nice set-up Dale. Just unsure if face of your fixture remained square after being removed to add the cylinder. Also,that is a standard equally spaced bolt circle, your DRO should give you the XY coordinates for each hole location, if not the machinist handbook or online. Just indicate the bore, no transferring holes and very accurate.
Gary......you are talking to a rookie here; I wish I had the understanding of the DRO for every function, but I don't. Right now, it has to be basic stuff like the half function. The bolt holes really don't need to be accurate because the cylinder centers on the sleeve that sticks out of the top of the cylinder. In this case they just hold it on. I need a guy like you to teach me all that stuff, I'm just a rookie.
Would highly recommend getting some machinable soft jaws for your lathe chuck. This will help in the process of indicating in your parts in the future, will explain later.
I have some that I made, just usually use them when I don't want to mar something. But if you think about it, it will permit the item to move easier. You sold me on the idea.
Yes! You can move it if you have to. But goal is NOT to have to indicate after you bore the soft jaws to the same diameter as your fixture. I'll explain the process when your ready.
Yes, would like to know the soft jaw procedure, you can contact me a dsweger@bresnan.net
Thanks Gary.
Great video Dale
Thank You!
I made a similar adapter for a big bore in a 125 4 stroke, but mounts in the other side of the cylinder, supports the sleeve as it gets thin with the big bore.
Yes, that is how I mount this jig for boring in the lathe, matter fact that is what this adapter was made for in the beginning.
I think it will work. Good job brother.
Man, any improvement will help, this thing was treated horribly.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice
Welcome and thanks for that Sub, I sure appreciate it.
Hi Dale. Nice job on that fixture, always good when you can reuse something that’s laying around, saves a ton of work.
Also the damage on the base of the cylinder, although it won’t hurt it doesn’t necessarily have to be welded up, you could always face it to nice clean flat surface then just run an extra gasket to make up for the material loss. Just another option.
Thanks for a great video Dale, I’m really enjoying this RM series. See ya on the next one
Yes, you could, just afraid of changing the port timing. Probably worried about nothing. I just Enjoy the process.
Mornin' Dale! (man, you're up early this fine day)
Good morning. I schedule these to go up in the middle of the night, it just takes too long during the day.
Nice, that gives me ideas
Great, I like giving folks ideas they can use in their own shop. Thanks for spending time in mine.
Whoever took that cylinder off really beat the hell out of it.
John you will not get an argument from me. Man, what some folks do.
May I suggest mounting the cylinder on a mandrel and turning between centers?
Yes, I wish I had some mandrels, I am just a hobby guy I don't have all that stuff a job shop would have. But I am sure it would be a lot better and simple. This is the only one I have ever done, and don't anticipate doing any more. Thank you for the suggestion I sure appreciate it.
morning Dale why not set it up in the mill weld it and then machine off the welds there instead of trying to spin it in the lathe? i'm a 70 year old dirt biker retired auto mechanic and very amateur machinist but love to do it, i love you shop i have toy stuff compaired to yours but hoping to upgrade sometime soon
Hey Larry, it sure could be done on the mill, think I would have needed to order a longer mill bit though. So, I just used what I had. Sounds like we are a lot alike. I just enjoy piddling around in the shop. Keeps the old brain working you know.
Would it have been better to do a shallower bore in the fixture and hold the cylinder in the fixture against the head gasket sealing surface ?
Not sure, something to ponder though. Turned out on this one the top of the sleeve wasn't all that even. But who knows if the bolt surface was or not. It seemed to have worked out. Probably lucky.
Great video new subscriber
Thank you Dave, welcome.
Top du top 👍👍👍👍👍👌
good morn`in!
morning frank
dad gum Zukies, bet the Yamahamers are easier to work on ,just kidd`in@@montana2strokeracer
Zukies are harder to find parts for.
Hey,
Why would you do that surface in the lathe like that instead of in the mill on a rotary table?
Just curious...
Robert
No answer.
That's always irritating...
Oh well.
Why wouldn’t you just heat the cylinder and drop the sleeve out and repair the jug and reheat the jug and reinstall it. They normally come out easily.
First 7:30 am.
Your Mom must be so proud of you!
no probem about the wood working skills
i have done that for 45 years
all i want to do now is turn wrenches
I hear you my friend, turning wrenches and playing with old bikes....lots of fun.