Hi Dale, I didn't see the whole set-up process and indicating/tapping the cylinder face looked painful. You probably did this but take a skim cut on the fixture face after mounting in the 4 jaw, this way, when you mount the cylinder to the face of the fixture it will automatically be square and you only have the indicate bore. Great content, I'm your biggest fan.
Hey Gary, yes, I didn't think I should have to do that, but for some reason I had to. I made this adapter many years ago for something else, then had to open up the hole and redrill mounting holes for this cylinder. I know when I first made the adapter, I took a facing cut. Maybe I should do it again just to square things up a bit. Not a machinist, just a what to be. I don't bore on the lathe much anymore, I prefer the mill, but on these small bores it's got to be the lathe. Thanks for the great advice and thanks for watching my old motorcycle videos.
Anytime, the chuck is removed from the lathe spindle, or the fixture removed from chuck or moved in any way, it's best to skim cut the fixture face again. Any type of dirt, metal chip, burr, chuck jaw faces not on the same plane, or how things tighten up, can get the cylinder face to runout. A lot of times when a chuck is removed from the spindle, the machinist will put it back on at the same position. A line drawn on the spindle and chuck. Either way though, you can skim cut the fixture face and have it running as true as possible but then when moving the chuck jaws and fixture to get the bore centered, the face can cock sideways a thousandth or so again. A better way would be to get the fixture in the chuck close to true and held tight, skim cut the face, and don't move the fixture. Bolt the cylinder head down to the fixture just snug and move the cylinder head itself by tapping it until it it is centered, and then fully tightening the four bolts holding it onto the fixture. Worst case, would be clamping on the cylinder itself in the chuck jaws and springing it. I saw that in another video. It's good you are using a fixture.
Hi there, I have done many boring and honing videos. Take a look at one of them to see the honing process, I generally use my 1966 model Sunnen hone to do this process. It was a great machine then and still is now with specs held to .0005. Thanks for spending time in the shop with me.
I hv a terrible seize at 130kmh wt my Suzuki two strokes underbone bike ,I had to knock hard to free the piston. It's really2 bad scratches to the liner and pistons on hiway. Then I used sand papers to sand (I always hv them with my tool kits tho) .bike could start and ride back home ..
Wow sounds like you know this situation firsthand. It can be hard to get the pistons loose after a seize. What caused the seizing, lean condition or lack of oil. Can you tell?
Well obviously ,I was lean on 2 stroke oil and gas back then. After that happens I decide to install onesize larger carby instead upsize my jetting on the Std carburator. I play around with jetting to suit my riding style, but the Std Carb with larger jets sucks more fuel than oversize carbs with Std jettings. After I use those oversize I didn't had any seizures..also they go easy on my pockets use less petrol money for the same long distance. At one point I tries to made the piston seize but it just not happening . Suzuki jugs they were like immortal things.. You just have less power with them ,,,,,running engine on scratchs jug , but they will still run. These things you won't find on others brand bike, and Yammy is the worst one, with little seizure they already needs new pistons.and rebore.
Thanks, No nickasel available at that time. These engines just had cast iron liners, they were bore, hone and go. Some engines at that time had chrome bores, the Bridgestone's and some early Kawasaki's but no nickasel. Don't think nickasel was available till the 90's. These older bikes are so much easier to work on and much cheaper.
@@montana2strokeracerI wasn't aware of that. I had a 74 Kawasaki F11 250 that my dad bored out in the lathe and got an oversized piston and rings for. It lasted a few years but seemed to wear faster than I thought it would. Maybe it was the rings but I don't recall.
Anytime, the chuck is removed from the lathe spindle, or the fixture removed from chuck or moved in any way, it's best to skim cut the fixture face again. Any type of dirt, metal chip, burr, chuck jaw faces not on the same plane, or how things tighten up, can get the cylinder face to runout. A lot of times when a chuck is removed from the spindle, the machinist will put it back on at the same position. A line drawn on the spindle and chuck. Either way though, you can skim cut the fixture face and have it running as true as possible but then when moving the chuck jaws and fixture to get the bore centered, the face can cock sideways a thousandth or so again. A better way would be to get the fixture in the chuck close to true and held tight, skim cut the face, and don't move the fixture. Bolt the cylinder head down to the fixture just snug and move the cylinder head itself by tapping it until it it is centered, and then fully tightening the four bolts holding it onto the fixture. Worst case, would be clamping on the cylinder itself in the chuck jaws and springing it. I saw that in another video. It's good you are using a fixture.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks . I drill the cylinder until the piston can go in to measure point on the skirt,,, that after 2 minutes of honing .. I have done it many times and it fits every time + 0.035mm above piston measurement😃😃😃😃
Hi, no website, this old guy can barely turn on a computer. Folks contact me through my email posted on my "about" page in TH-cam. That email is dsweger@bresnan.net I take on some outside work, but not much in the summer, for I am retired and like to enjoy our short summers here in Montana. Winter, I take on more if my Restoration schedule permits.
@@montana2strokeracer believe it or not i had getting my first set of dentures today kept me up somewhat. anyway i will have a great Chesser Cat smile soon to catch the bugs while riding. LOL.
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Your work is so impressive, both machining and videoing! Can’t wait to see the next one.
Thanks for the kind words, Troy.
another great job dale as always keep up the good work next video please
Thanks for your support Mark.
Hi Dale, I didn't see the whole set-up process and indicating/tapping the cylinder face looked painful. You probably did this but take a skim cut on the fixture face after mounting in the 4 jaw, this way, when you mount the cylinder to the face of the fixture it will automatically be square and you only have the indicate bore. Great content, I'm your biggest fan.
Hey Gary, yes, I didn't think I should have to do that, but for some reason I had to. I made this adapter many years ago for something else, then had to open up the hole and redrill mounting holes for this cylinder. I know when I first made the adapter, I took a facing cut. Maybe I should do it again just to square things up a bit. Not a machinist, just a what to be. I don't bore on the lathe much anymore, I prefer the mill, but on these small bores it's got to be the lathe. Thanks for the great advice and thanks for watching my old motorcycle videos.
You can do the small bores on the mill with some chatter control or maybe a bigger diameter bar turned on the end to fit your boring head.
Anytime, the chuck is removed from the lathe spindle, or the fixture removed from chuck or moved in any way, it's best to skim cut the fixture face again. Any type of dirt, metal chip, burr, chuck jaw faces not on the same plane, or how things tighten up, can get the cylinder face to runout. A lot of times when a chuck is removed from the spindle, the machinist will put it back on at the same position. A line drawn on the spindle and chuck. Either way though, you can skim cut the fixture face and have it running as true as possible but then when moving the chuck jaws and fixture to get the bore centered, the face can cock sideways a thousandth or so again. A better way would be to get the fixture in the chuck close to true and held tight, skim cut the face, and don't move the fixture. Bolt the cylinder head down to the fixture just snug and move the cylinder head itself by tapping it until it it is centered, and then fully tightening the four bolts holding it onto the fixture. Worst case, would be clamping on the cylinder itself in the chuck jaws and springing it. I saw that in another video. It's good you are using a fixture.
Great work Dale. I think I will try this technique when I get around to the D10.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, I prefer the milling machine, but I have no choice on these small bores. You will do just fine when the time comes.
@@montana2strokeracer I don't have power down feed on my mill, I think this will be a good option for me. Cheers Dale.
Nice job Dale.
Thanks Peter, appreciate you stopping by.
Here! Cool to see you boring with a lathe.
Think your first, how did that happen. Yes, don't do it often, but the smaller cylinders only can be done that way. In my shop anyway.
Thank you for this generously shared information! Was hoping to see how you do the cross hatching
Hi there, I have done many boring and honing videos. Take a look at one of them to see the honing process, I generally use my 1966 model Sunnen hone to do this process. It was a great machine then and still is now with specs held to .0005. Thanks for spending time in the shop with me.
I hv a terrible seize at 130kmh wt my Suzuki two strokes underbone bike ,I had to knock hard to free the piston. It's really2 bad scratches to the liner and pistons on hiway. Then I used sand papers to sand (I always hv them with my tool kits tho) .bike could start and ride back home ..
Wow sounds like you know this situation firsthand. It can be hard to get the pistons loose after a seize. What caused the seizing, lean condition or lack of oil. Can you tell?
Well obviously ,I was lean on 2 stroke oil and gas back then.
After that happens I decide to install onesize larger carby instead upsize my jetting on the Std carburator. I play around with jetting to suit my riding style, but the Std Carb with larger jets sucks more fuel than oversize carbs with Std jettings.
After I use those oversize I didn't had any seizures..also they go easy on my pockets use less petrol money for the same long distance. At one point I tries to made the piston seize but it just not happening .
Suzuki jugs they were like immortal things.. You just have less power with them ,,,,,running engine on scratchs jug , but they will still run. These things you won't find on others brand bike, and Yammy is the worst one, with little seizure they already needs new pistons.and rebore.
Nice job. Are you going to send it out to have it nikosil-ed again?
Thanks, No nickasel available at that time. These engines just had cast iron liners, they were bore, hone and go. Some engines at that time had chrome bores, the Bridgestone's and some early Kawasaki's but no nickasel. Don't think nickasel was available till the 90's. These older bikes are so much easier to work on and much cheaper.
@@montana2strokeracerI wasn't aware of that. I had a 74 Kawasaki F11 250 that my dad bored out in the lathe and got an oversized piston and rings for. It lasted a few years but seemed to wear faster than I thought it would. Maybe it was the rings but I don't recall.
Anytime, the chuck is removed from the lathe spindle, or the fixture removed from chuck or moved in any way, it's best to skim cut the fixture face again. Any type of dirt, metal chip, burr, chuck jaw faces not on the same plane, or how things tighten up, can get the cylinder face to runout. A lot of times when a chuck is removed from the spindle, the machinist will put it back on at the same position. A line drawn on the spindle and chuck. Either way though, you can skim cut the fixture face and have it running as true as possible but then when moving the chuck jaws and fixture to get the bore centered, the face can cock sideways a thousandth or so again. A better way would be to get the fixture in the chuck close to true and held tight, skim cut the face, and don't move the fixture. Bolt the cylinder head down to the fixture just snug and move the cylinder head itself by tapping it until it it is centered, and then fully tightening the four bolts holding it onto the fixture. Worst case, would be clamping on the cylinder itself in the chuck jaws and springing it. I saw that in another video. It's good you are using a fixture.
look good this time ..
Thanks Gert, good to see you here.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks . I drill the cylinder until the piston can go in to measure point on the skirt,,, that after 2 minutes of honing .. I have done it many times and it fits every time + 0.035mm above piston measurement😃😃😃😃
Do you have a website? How do people use your services?
Hi, no website, this old guy can barely turn on a computer. Folks contact me through my email posted on my "about" page in TH-cam. That email is dsweger@bresnan.net
I take on some outside work, but not much in the summer, for I am retired and like to enjoy our short summers here in Montana. Winter, I take on more if my Restoration schedule permits.
Can you do a twin head for a 2stroke? I have one, an outboard powerhead.
Sure, they can be done. I have probably 10 videos on boring two strokes in the milling machine.
You taking any mailins? @@montana2strokeracer
Here
Yeah!!!
3:13 am wednesday.
Dang Frank, little advice, maybe slow down on the coffee bud.
@@montana2strokeracer believe it or not i had getting my first set of dentures today kept me up somewhat. anyway i will have a great Chesser Cat smile soon to catch the bugs while riding. LOL.
Hey Frank I can kind of relate, I had every tooth in my mouth crowned about two years ago. I was a big deal, now I am pretty use to it.