For some reason this video has attracted a lot of negative comments lately. Rather than answer each comment individually, it is easier for me to pin this comment here and refer people to it. Firstly, this video was an entry in the RoughCut2022 video challenge in which TH-cam creators were asked to make a tool. I made a tool. It didn't win. I don't mind. I had fun making the tool. Secondly, yes, you can set a lathe tool by trapping a scale/rule between the tool tip and the work. But this is a fairly subjective method. It does work and I have used it but it is approximate. Thirdly, I acknowledge that this tool is overly complicated but it does work, it is accurate and a similar version is made and sold by Edge Precision. Fourthly, I am not asking people to buy it and I only ever made two of them, one of which was given away as a subscriber gift. I wanted to make something nice for the gift which is one reason why I spent a lot of time finishing it. Fifthly, I like making things and finishing them well. I enjoy using processes like anodising, CNC engraving and bead blasting. If you don't want to use those processes, you don't need to and the tool will still work perfectly. Sixthly (is that even a word?) I wanted to showcase some techniques which may not be widely known for makers who watch TH-cam. Even if you don't want to make a lathe tool setter, you might still see a technique that you could adapt to a different project. I hope this answers a lot of common questions. Regards, Mark Presling
you make what works for you if you enjoy making it and it works as it is supposed to then, anyone complaining is forgetting the first rule it's not their problem. By the way your finished product looked very well made and finished very impressed.
You look to be of an age where we did things simply, yet... You've developed an unnecessarily complicated tool for a simple task. The simplest ways are best...What we did was interpose a (straight) steel rule between the tool tip and the workpiece (I'd use a straight plastic rule, now, carbides tending to be brittle by comparison with HSS, or interpose a plastic pad between my hard steel rule and the tool tip), having got the tool up to something approximating the lathe spindle centreline. the rule then lies at a tangent to the workpiece. If the rule is vertical, the tool is at centre height. If the rule top is nearer the operator, the tool's below centre, and vice versa... Imagine... You're on a big Swift (or other) lathe, with an 8 foot diameter cast iron cylinder mounted in it... you have no means of getting to the tailstock after a tool swap or regrind... even if there's no workpiece in place, do you want to move the toolpost 4 feet to get a tool on centre? No, you get a rule out of your box (or top pocket) and interpose it between tool tip and workpiece, when it's loaded... Works with LH, RH, and upside down tools Not criticism, by the way, merely an observation... The old Cincinnati tool and cutter grinders came with a centre height setting tool as standard equipment, used for setting cutter teeth on centre before grinding, and, they could be used to set a tooth on centre whether it was pointing up or down, and to set the wheelhead spindle centreline relative to the workhead or centres... Same simple tool... Something similar or even simpler could be used on a little lathe like yours...
Mr. Pressing, I don’t care what anyone says about this tool in a negative way. I love it. I think you did an amazing job. It shows off your talent and creativity. All the negatives are just jealous. Keep up the good work my friend.
Thank you. I am glad you appreciate it for what it was. I think the thing that is often missed is that I like to use processes like anodising and CNC engraving. The tool was just a demonstration of how you can use those processes in other applications. Regards, Mark
Quickest and easiest way to find the centre line of the tool. Spin the tool post around and set the tip to the point of the tailstock centre. Works every time, no tool needed! Also in the UK we call the projection a 'Pip'... great video as always Mark
That's how we used to do it at school. However, once you spin the tool post you lose your reference on the DRO. I wish I had one of those fancy schmancy multifix tool holders but an old cheapskate like me finds them a bit too pricey. Regards, Mark
How we have done it at work: take an aluminium-sheet. Put it on the cross-slide. Make a mark with the tailstock centre. Saw on the mark and make the sheet to look as a "Z". There is the correct hight. We have made them from aluminium, made one last thursday (took about five minutes). With a good bandsaw one could make it in Aisi316 to last"forever". The inserts slowly destroys the aluminium edge so be prepared to make a new every 15-20 years 🤭🤣...
Spinning tbe tool around assumes 2 things, which can be incorrect: A) the toolpost is vertical, hence doesn"t change height B) the tailstock is vertically centered.
The last time I used a lathe was at school 63yrs ago! I always love watching professionals at work with lathes, it’s an obsession with me. Learning it helped me at work, 37yrs in the ambulance service, it helped me know a bit of what they were talking about when I was patching them up! 😅. Brilliant video.
Thank you. A lot of people misunderstood the purpose of this tool and the reasons I had for making it. There are simpler ways of setting lathe tools to correct height but I wanted to demonstrate some procedures and processes that can be carried out in the home workshop and the tool was a good way of doing it. However I made two. One was given away as a gift and I keep the other one next to my lathe. I use it often and it just works. I am glad you appreciated the content for what it was. Regards, Mark
Not a black art , grinding lathe and milling cutters and setting up was all taught to me as first year apprentice as a fifteen year old , Brings back memories of feeds and speeds for internal and external screwcutting , When I started at a big engineering company they had just bought their first CNC machines punch card operated , now look at the job !
WOW, that was an awesome video to watch. I was completely captivated for the whole video. Thank you for your imagination and creativity. I am self taught and learning so much from people like yourself. Best of luck to you, Wylie.
I'm one of those guys who has no idea what he's doing, however I just alined the tip of the tool with the tip of the live centre and it appears to work just fine.
Well executed machining and complete finishing process of doing not only this tool (which is well thought out) but any tool or part from cradle to grave. I'm retired from 50 years engineering, still active in my own shop. I have continually learned and asked questions from others like yourself for better, easier, more logical ways to improve our craft. Great job Mark, I like the tool and your build execution.
Thanks for that. I enjoyed making that tool and although it's a bit over the top, I still like to use the processes that enhance the finished product. I guess it's a case of being able to justify the expense of purchasing tools and materials. If you don't use them regularly, it's a bit of a waste.
I'm absolutely new to turning, and was looking around for a simple, quick and effective way to set tool height, but watching this video made me feel like I'd better choose another hobby...
Don't be put off by my version of this tool. It doesn't need to be much more than a 3D printed body with a self tapping screw for calibration. A single row ball bearing would be sufficient to allow it to rotate freely. As many people point out, I have over done the detail in this build. My main objective was to make a nice tool to give away to a viewer and I also wanted to showcase some metal finishing techniques that others may not have tried. Regards, Mark
Another work of art. Very clever concept indeed. The copper pad inserts are a great way to hold things from moving. Another trick to bung in the 'Handy Ideas' folder. Thanks as always for sharing this Mark. Cheers from N.Z 👍
Hi Mr. Presling, I made a 3d printed version of your tools. It is incredibly simple and very smart design as I can just use almost all off the shelf parts and it also works really well. Very easy to set and very consistent. Thank you for sharing your fantastic design.
Thanks and I am glad you were able to make a 3D printed version. I copped a lot of criticism for making a tool that appeared to be over done and out of reach for a lot of viewers. My intention was to make something nice to give away as a gift but I always reasoned that you could make a serviceable version from CNC machined plastic or even cut out of some plastic stock on the bandsaw. The key is to have a way of calibrating the tool. I use mine a lot and it just works and there's little guesswork involved. Regards, Mark
Enjoyed the minimal verbal chatter and good editing- no extraneous shots - I followed along just fine. Decided to subscribe on the strength of this video.
Thanks for that. However I did get some feedback to say that I should have narrated the build. That is what I would normally do but this video would have gone on way to long if I started explaining every step, Regards, Mark
Several people have asked I intend to make any of these tools for sale but the answer is no. I doubt I could make them at a competitive price and there are similar tools on the market anyway. However if you would like to make your own, I have included a link in the description which will allow you to download a PDF version of the 2D drawings. The tool body doesn't need to be made of aluminium. I good quality 3D print in PETG or carbon fibre filament would be fine. A resin print would be even better. The only requirement is that the two setting screws can be adjusted and locked and that the top and bottom mounting surfaces for the spirit bubble levels be parallel to each other.
Thinking about this a bit and I don't even think the top and bottom surfaces need to be parallel since they are not really used at the same time, each level is really only referenced to the adjustment screw (which should be perpendicular to the level). Since each side is calibrated only between a single level and the adjusting screw for that side being parallel to the opposite side it nice, and pretty, but not a requirement. Please correct me if I am wrong. I love this project and the presentation you made of it.
Beautiful job! I love the purple/green contrast. Glad to see someone engraving through the anodising. This is a technique I conceived myself some 47 years ago (don't know if anyone had done it previously) but with pantograph v groove engraving through black anodising for an audio amplifier panel. I had the black anodising done professionally for me, perfectly prepared to pay but despite trying (and succeeding) to black anodise some fine aluminium mesh (car filler support mesh!) for the air vent, AND doing the case cover they were happy to do it all free, they just wanted to see the result afterwards. They'd never tried anodising mesh so fine and were concerned it might all dissolve - it didn't! So some 47 years later how does it look? Wish TH-cam allowed pics in posts, but suffice to say it STILL looks pristine and the engraved aluminium, despite being exposed to air for all that time is STILL shiny. Anyone who knows how to anodise and has a CNC engraver should try this. The results are superb. I didn't have access to glass bead blasting back in the day, but instead just used fine wet & dry (1200?? - LONG time ago) and gave the ali a brushed look prior to anodising. Today I'd use a fine Scotchbrite pad or locate a glass bead blaster (I love that matte finish)! Not sure I'd go to the lengths you have to produce such a tool but having a 3D printer and not a Mill 😢😢 I might try it at some point. Before that though, my VERY recently acquired, bargain priced, Myford ML2 has to be completely refurbed & restored, together with a large format, heavy duty pillar drill (70mm column!).
Thanks Bob. I must say it has taken a lot of experimentation to get repeatable results with the home anodising. As you have found, the finish is very durable. What I only found out recently was that the PH of the dye can vary quite a lot and if it is too alkaline, it won't take very well or at all. I purchased a digital PH meter and found that some dyes were PH 9! A few drops of hydrochloric acid got it down again though. There's always more to learn.... Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 thanks for that! Highly useful tip. AND, at the moment, 36% Hydrochloric acid is perfectly legal in the UK so a simple PH meter can solve that problem for me too hopefully, although using Sodium Bisulphate may require a different PH or not even be bothered! We shall see! 👍👍👍
way cool bud,new subscriber here,thanks for sharing,im a old back busted trucker with not much to do so im impressed with these videos.keep up the good work and thanks for sharing....cheers from north carolina usa
Another great project and nicely finished as usual. The finish you achieve (anodizing, powder coating etc) really make your work stand out. I did miss the usual banter though.
Hi Mark. I have just made my self one and thank you for the PDF down load I am useing it on my emco maximat supper 11 works 100% a lot better than the old way to set up your tools. From Brian west germany
I am glad you found it useful. I actually just used mine today. I made a little 3D printed bracket for it so it doesn't have to roll around in the chip tray. The most useful feature is how quickly you can switch from setting conventional cutting tools, and, inverted tools. Regards, Mark
Thanks, normally I would explain as I go but all that got edited out when I realised that I was working to a 30 minute video length. Thanks for watching to the end. Regards, Mark
Love it, my problem is the quick change holder is a bit inaccurate and the tool tip can be a bit off depending how one holds it when clamping. This sorts that and its on my lets make one list. Brilliant!
Thanks. The prototype had only one bearing but the body of the tool wobbled about like a drunken sailor. Also, I cheaped out and bought Chinese skate bearings. Bad idea! I originally laughed when I heard that saying, "buy once, cry once". Now I understand what it means. Regards, Mark
I like it. Unfortunately a lot of people thought it was over done and too complex but it doesn't have to be anodised and it doesn't even need to be made of metal. Acetal or acrylic would be fine for the body. It could even be 3D printed. Regards, Mark
Hi Mark Very nice job and tool for the lathe. The coating finish very nice. Maybe a full video on protective coatings the good the bad and down right ugly?????
Mark, I generally don’t comment on some of the larger TH-cam channels. Seems like they already get enough comments to keep them busy responding. But I do want to say your work is always very impressive, and I enjoy every minute of it. In this field was no exception. Thanks for sharing. Gary
Gee, thanks Gary. I wouldn't put myself in the "larger" category but it's nice that you deem me worthy. I feel guilty sometimes watching the Tom Lipton's and Stefan Gotteswinter''s of this world and not commenting for the same reason. When are we going to do a sticker swap? Regards, Mark
I enjoyed this as it showcased a lot of thought and techniques in machining, plating etc. As a wise man once said " those that can, DO and those that can't, WHINGE"
Thank you. I appreciate that you saw the video for what it was. I did want to showcase some techniques and processes that I use regularly and that maybe some people haven't had the chance to try yet. It's all about sharing. Regards, Mark
@Preso58 Hi Mark I've got an old Aussie made Advance Lathe which I've tinkered with over the years. It's a small model makers lathe, but I've recently picked up an old Harrison 13x40 and planning to do more substantial projects. Channels like yours provide a lot of common-sense instruction. Take me back to my days at tech in Ballarat back in the 70s. I'm now interested in Anodising aluminium after watching your work. Thanks again.
Excellent design and manufacture 👏✔🧐. Certainly more versatile than many crossslide height setters. Again brilliant work and photography. Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John.
I made a 1inch chamfer d-bit a while ago, with a reduced shank (12mm) out of silver steel, 2 lathe operations (for the shank and cone), followed by a mill to half diameter, then some stoning followed by heat treatment and honing, it worked well for the chamfering, but sinced then I stick it in the three jaw on my lathe and use it to set tool height, it works a treat for finding centre vertically (normal and upside down) and horizontally
I agree that such a tool can be used and it's a lot less complex to make. I would encourage everyone to use the method that works for you. Regards, Mark
I’m most impressed with how well the rest of his tools are set up, feed rates and everything. I have to agree there are much easier ways of finding center and making a tool to set up your machine so that it makes everything good and correct but you don’t have machines that are set up good and correct yet.
That is a wonderful tool! I'm not a machinist, I watch @Cutting Edge Engineering Australia regularly and you showed up in my feed, and I have to say I'm glad you did, I'm now subscribed to two machining channels!
I too am a fan of Cutting Edge Engineering. What he does is scary and spectacular at the same time. Watching him parting off a 200mm chunk of high strength steel on power feed is "exciting". Regards, Mark
So many things to like about this :D Thank you very much for taking the time to film and shate your work Mark, this is definitely the kind of tool project I thoroughly enjoy doing ❤
Very impressive tool, in my apprenticeship were taught to touch the toolbit onto our 6inch rule against the surface of the work piece. The rule gives a quick indication of offset either side of centre
Good Show Mate: I must say I had no idea what the design was going to be like. Being lazy, I use a surface gauge and a steel plate I lay on the lathe ways. Works. Seems you had a little ASMR going there. That was fun.
Nice work mate! Ignore all the crap that often comes out in social media & just keep doing your thing. I'm a first time viewer & found this video interesting, that's for sure (I'm a bit of a frustrated hobby/wannabee machinist & find this kind of contend very encouraging! Cheers!!
Thanks. I think someone must have posted a link to this video on a forum somewhere and it has gained a lot of views very quickly. Typically, people tend to just scroll through it without paying attention to the summary at the end. I am glad you appreciated what I was trying to achieve. Regards, Mark
Thank you. I regularly get comments stating that the tool is overcomplicated, too hard to make and not as simple as say, trapping a scale between the tool tip and the workpiece. I know all of this and the video was never meant to be a "simple" solution. It was more about how to carry out some processes that will make your projects look more professional and, as it happens, I use the tool regularly and I get accurate results with it. I am glad you found the video instructional. At the end of the day, that is what I want to achieve. Again, thanks. Regards, Mark
Amazing tool, with a lot of finishing steps, which could also be applied individually to other projects, i.e. even if I dont build the tool. Thank you.
Thanks. The tool design was probably a bit over the top but the main purpose of the video was to show how to carry out some of the finishing processes and machining steps that can be carried out in the home workshop. Regards, Mark
Thar was fun! I wondered about the Edge setting tool, mainly for the tiny carbide boring bars I use, which are 1.7 mm diameter, but I also need to set up 0.5 mm pitch threading inserts which are at steep angles. I think a modified version of your tool with a larger radius and smaller tip might work really well. Also, the colour is fabulous.
Thanks. I really should get some of those little carbide boring bars. I have seen Joe Pi using them and I get very jealous. I have about 8 different colours of anodisng dye but that violet colour is my favourite. I only found out recently that the PH of the dye is really important. I bought myself a PH meter and found out that half my dyes were way to alkaline. A few drops of hydrochloric acid gets them back into range and the parts colour up nicely. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 pH of the dye is interesting, I must have a check of this blue dye to see what it's acidity is. The Simtek tools are excellent although I think it's possible to grind them from scratch using a Deckel or similar. I made my own holders and the little boring bars last ages unless you do something brutal. Like knocking the carriage handwheel...
Hello Mr Pressling, most would consider the job done after milling (and chamfering) work. But from the point of view of a professional, the work is only over when the result looks convincing. As a layman, I would never put so much effort into the finishing. You have my utmost respect.
That was great, A very useful tool, I would have liked you to show us how you did the CNC work, especially lining the engraver to the work. Great stuff. I'm looking forward to the next video.
It was entertaining apparels you have a lot of ideal time I use A height gage and indicates which I'm sure you have one with all the equipment you have the center off the tail stock is another quick reference especially with the type tool holder that you have the height gage also can measure up For tools such cut off tool. It was nice to see you shop
Damn, that's a handy tool to have... all I need now is a lathe, a horizontal mill, a belt sander, some bits and bops , some metal stock,...😅 just have fun! Thanks for sharing, a couch like to watch metal worker (hahaha)
There is at least one bubble level based center adjusting tool I've seen but this one seems like a functional alternative. At first I thought that the adjustments went haywire when changing from tailstock to spindle but then my brain went on a thinking mode (rarely do) and I realized that the two measuring surfaces are actually equal. I think the best way to calibrate this tool is to do the calibration with a tool whose cutting surface is upwards. Just do the calibration both in tailstock and in the chuck without changing the tool. Then it is easier to access the adjusting screw as well. Cheers, Esko.
Why didn't I think of that? Since I finished the two tools and the video I have not actually used them. One is to be kept unused for the give away but the other is sitting by the lathe waiting until I return home. We are actually in New Zealand at the moment and we left just after the tools were finished. The design I came up with is a bit like the Edge Precision lathe tool setters. However, as far as I know they don't make one that will do both regular tools and inverted tools. Regards, Mark
I made one in 10 minutes. Screwed two plates on top of a pillar to be placed on the cross slide. The two plates look like an open scissors offering two surfaces for a normal tool and an inverted tool. No need to mount on any chuck which can be available unused or not. No need for late leveling. (the lathe may be free of twist but not necessarily level) Pop the "Gauge" on the cross slide, wherever the slide happens to be, no movement. m Move the tool older up or down for a rough adjustment and trim with the tool older adjusting knob to exact height. Done in 7.4 seconds. The tool presented has one advantage: The same gauge will work on any of the seven different lathes you own.
I already have a small tool setter made from injection moulded plastic. It looks like something that would be given away on a trade stand or machinery show. It works and it's surprisingly accurate but you have to hold it with one hand while setting the tool height. I guess what I made was unnecessarily complex but it was a nice thing to make and to give away as a gift. Regards, Mark
Very cool tool. I've seen similar made by Edge Technologies, but I think I like yours better. I usually use a scale, pinched between the tool and the stock to set the height. Your way is definitely more precise.
My version was based on the Edge Technology design but it does have the capability to set inverted tools as well as conventional tools. The Edge Technology version is over $100 Australian so it's not exactly cheap (here). Regards, Mark
@NitroRustlerDriver there not a chance in hell, that using ANY tool with all those machined mating surfaces, with their potential for error, is "more precise" than simple geometry and physics....
I have always used the ruler method. A small diameter rod in the chuck and a 6" ruler. Bring the tool up to the rod, pinching the ruler between them, then adjust your tool height so that the ruler is dead plumb. Simple but accurate.
That absolutely works and I have used it myself but I wanted to make something nice to give away as a prize. I will be doing an announcement with details of the give away soon. Regards, Mark
For some reason this video has attracted a lot of negative comments lately. Rather than answer each comment individually, it is easier for me to pin this comment here and refer people to it.
Firstly, this video was an entry in the RoughCut2022 video challenge in which TH-cam creators were asked to make a tool. I made a tool. It didn't win. I don't mind. I had fun making the tool.
Secondly, yes, you can set a lathe tool by trapping a scale/rule between the tool tip and the work. But this is a fairly subjective method. It does work and I have used it but it is approximate.
Thirdly, I acknowledge that this tool is overly complicated but it does work, it is accurate and a similar version is made and sold by Edge Precision.
Fourthly, I am not asking people to buy it and I only ever made two of them, one of which was given away as a subscriber gift. I wanted to make something nice for the gift which is one reason why I spent a lot of time finishing it.
Fifthly, I like making things and finishing them well. I enjoy using processes like anodising, CNC engraving and bead blasting. If you don't want to use those processes, you don't need to and the tool will still work perfectly.
Sixthly (is that even a word?) I wanted to showcase some techniques which may not be widely known for makers who watch TH-cam. Even if you don't want to make a lathe tool setter, you might still see a technique that you could adapt to a different project.
I hope this answers a lot of common questions.
Regards,
Mark Presling
awesome tool mate, I'd love to have one of those.
you make what works for you if you enjoy making it and it works as it is supposed to then, anyone complaining is forgetting the first rule it's not their problem. By the way your finished product looked very well made and finished very impressed.
You are a true artist and a pro. Don't listen to youtube nincompoops. Thanks for sharing. I'll build one.
Thank you Sir for your knowledge & video
I do appreciate your efforts
You look to be of an age where we did things simply, yet... You've developed an unnecessarily complicated tool for a simple task. The simplest ways are best...What we did was interpose a (straight) steel rule between the tool tip and the workpiece (I'd use a straight plastic rule, now, carbides tending to be brittle by comparison with HSS, or interpose a plastic pad between my hard steel rule and the tool tip), having got the tool up to something approximating the lathe spindle centreline. the rule then lies at a tangent to the workpiece. If the rule is vertical, the tool is at centre height. If the rule top is nearer the operator, the tool's below centre, and vice versa...
Imagine... You're on a big Swift (or other) lathe, with an 8 foot diameter cast iron cylinder mounted in it... you have no means of getting to the tailstock after a tool swap or regrind... even if there's no workpiece in place, do you want to move the toolpost 4 feet to get a tool on centre? No, you get a rule out of your box (or top pocket) and interpose it between tool tip and workpiece, when it's loaded... Works with LH, RH, and upside down tools
Not criticism, by the way, merely an observation... The old Cincinnati tool and cutter grinders came with a centre height setting tool as standard equipment, used for setting cutter teeth on centre before grinding, and, they could be used to set a tooth on centre whether it was pointing up or down, and to set the wheelhead spindle centreline relative to the workhead or centres... Same simple tool... Something similar or even simpler could be used on a little lathe like yours...
Mr. Pressing, I don’t care what anyone says about this tool in a negative way. I love it. I think you did an amazing job. It shows off your talent and creativity. All the negatives are just jealous. Keep up the good work my friend.
Thank you. I am glad you appreciate it for what it was. I think the thing that is often missed is that I like to use processes like anodising and CNC engraving. The tool was just a demonstration of how you can use those processes in other applications.
Regards,
Mark
I totally agree!
Quickest and easiest way to find the centre line of the tool. Spin the tool post around and set the tip to the point of the tailstock centre. Works every time, no tool needed! Also in the UK we call the projection a 'Pip'... great video as always Mark
That's how we used to do it at school. However, once you spin the tool post you lose your reference on the DRO. I wish I had one of those fancy schmancy multifix tool holders but an old cheapskate like me finds them a bit too pricey.
Regards,
Mark
How we have done it at work: take an aluminium-sheet. Put it on the cross-slide. Make a mark with the tailstock centre. Saw on the mark and make the sheet to look as a "Z". There is the correct hight.
We have made them from aluminium, made one last thursday (took about five minutes). With a good bandsaw one could make it in Aisi316 to last"forever". The inserts slowly destroys the aluminium edge so be prepared to make a new every 15-20 years 🤭🤣...
This also only works if your center is actually on center. All kinds of reasons why that might be out.
Me too, since it’s already there . 😊
Spinning tbe tool around assumes 2 things, which can be incorrect:
A) the toolpost is vertical, hence doesn"t change height
B) the tailstock is vertically centered.
I been a Machinist for 45 yrs, and i gotta say, that was very very cool.
I thought he was just going to show us a complicated version of the old fancy metal ruler method.
I could watch that all day.
Nice little gizmo you came up with for tool setting. I like it!
The last time I used a lathe was at school 63yrs ago! I always love watching professionals at work with lathes, it’s an obsession with me. Learning it helped me at work, 37yrs in the ambulance service, it helped me know a bit of what they were talking about when I was patching them up! 😅. Brilliant video.
Thank you. A lot of people misunderstood the purpose of this tool and the reasons I had for making it. There are simpler ways of setting lathe tools to correct height but I wanted to demonstrate some procedures and processes that can be carried out in the home workshop and the tool was a good way of doing it. However I made two. One was given away as a gift and I keep the other one next to my lathe. I use it often and it just works. I am glad you appreciated the content for what it was.
Regards,
Mark
my mind was blown when you installed the tool and showed how easy it was to use! absolutely outstanding.thank you for the video!
Not a black art , grinding lathe and milling cutters and setting up was all taught to me as first year apprentice as a fifteen year old , Brings back memories of feeds and speeds for internal and external screwcutting , When I started at a big engineering company they had just bought their first CNC machines punch card operated , now look at the job !
WOW, that was an awesome video to watch. I was completely captivated for the whole video. Thank you for your imagination and creativity. I am self taught and learning so much from people like yourself. Best of luck to you, Wylie.
Very nicely made and finished off. Small to fit in the toolbox and a great addition to any lathe! Cheers, Jon
I'm one of those guys who has no idea what he's doing, however I just alined the tip of the tool with the tip of the live centre and it appears to work just fine.
Keep doing what works for you! 😁
Regards,
Mark
Such a well made tool. I do very much appreciate the effort you put into finishing your projects.
Now you are just showing off :).
Beautiful job,
Well executed machining and complete finishing process of doing not only this tool (which is well thought out) but any tool or part from cradle to grave. I'm retired from 50 years engineering, still active in my own shop. I have continually learned and asked questions from others like yourself for better, easier, more logical ways to improve our craft. Great job Mark, I like the tool and your build execution.
Thanks for that. I enjoyed making that tool and although it's a bit over the top, I still like to use the processes that enhance the finished product. I guess it's a case of being able to justify the expense of purchasing tools and materials. If you don't use them regularly, it's a bit of a waste.
I'm absolutely new to turning, and was looking around for a simple, quick and effective way to set tool height, but watching this video made me feel like I'd better choose another hobby...
Don't be put off by my version of this tool. It doesn't need to be much more than a 3D printed body with a self tapping screw for calibration. A single row ball bearing would be sufficient to allow it to rotate freely. As many people point out, I have over done the detail in this build. My main objective was to make a nice tool to give away to a viewer and I also wanted to showcase some metal finishing techniques that others may not have tried.
Regards,
Mark
Another work of art. Very clever concept indeed. The copper pad inserts are a great way to hold things from moving. Another trick to bung in the 'Handy Ideas' folder.
Thanks as always for sharing this Mark. Cheers from N.Z 👍
Thanks. A small scrap of nylon or PTFE works well too. We are actually in New Zealand now. Up in Whangarei. Shame about the weather.
Regards,
Mark
wow! I'm impressed. Thank you for sharing this great idea and making these videos. I'll decently be back.
Hi Mr. Presling, I made a 3d printed version of your tools. It is incredibly simple and very smart design as I can just use almost all off the shelf parts and it also works really well. Very easy to set and very consistent. Thank you for sharing your fantastic design.
Thanks and I am glad you were able to make a 3D printed version. I copped a lot of criticism for making a tool that appeared to be over done and out of reach for a lot of viewers. My intention was to make something nice to give away as a gift but I always reasoned that you could make a serviceable version from CNC machined plastic or even cut out of some plastic stock on the bandsaw. The key is to have a way of calibrating the tool. I use mine a lot and it just works and there's little guesswork involved.
Regards,
Mark
Enjoyed the minimal verbal chatter and good editing- no extraneous shots - I followed along just fine. Decided to subscribe on the strength of this video.
Thanks for that. However I did get some feedback to say that I should have narrated the build. That is what I would normally do but this video would have gone on way to long if I started explaining every step,
Regards,
Mark
Very nice! I'm a great fan of your channel. Learn from you every time that I watch!
Very nice! Please keep producing machining and related videos. Thanks for the instruction.
Several people have asked I intend to make any of these tools for sale but the answer is no. I doubt I could make them at a competitive price and there are similar tools on the market anyway. However if you would like to make your own, I have included a link in the description which will allow you to download a PDF version of the 2D drawings. The tool body doesn't need to be made of aluminium. I good quality 3D print in PETG or carbon fibre filament would be fine. A resin print would be even better. The only requirement is that the two setting screws can be adjusted and locked and that the top and bottom mounting surfaces for the spirit bubble levels be parallel to each other.
Thinking about this a bit and I don't even think the top and bottom surfaces need to be parallel since they are not really used at the same time, each level is really only referenced to the adjustment screw (which should be perpendicular to the level). Since each side is calibrated only between a single level and the adjusting screw for that side being parallel to the opposite side it nice, and pretty, but not a requirement. Please correct me if I am wrong.
I love this project and the presentation you made of it.
Really nice work,,especially the copper washer for the grub screws.
And didn't I have fun trying to get those little bits of copper into those holes! Poor eyesight and shaking hands can be a "challenge".
Regards,
Mark
Beautiful job! I love the purple/green contrast. Glad to see someone engraving through the anodising. This is a technique I conceived myself some 47 years ago (don't know if anyone had done it previously) but with pantograph v groove engraving through black anodising for an audio amplifier panel.
I had the black anodising done professionally for me, perfectly prepared to pay but despite trying (and succeeding) to black anodise some fine aluminium mesh (car filler support mesh!) for the air vent, AND doing the case cover they were happy to do it all free, they just wanted to see the result afterwards. They'd never tried anodising mesh so fine and were concerned it might all dissolve - it didn't!
So some 47 years later how does it look? Wish TH-cam allowed pics in posts, but suffice to say it STILL looks pristine and the engraved aluminium, despite being exposed to air for all that time is STILL shiny.
Anyone who knows how to anodise and has a CNC engraver should try this. The results are superb. I didn't have access to glass bead blasting back in the day, but instead just used fine wet & dry (1200?? - LONG time ago) and gave the ali a brushed look prior to anodising. Today I'd use a fine Scotchbrite pad or locate a glass bead blaster (I love that matte finish)!
Not sure I'd go to the lengths you have to produce such a tool but having a 3D printer and not a Mill
😢😢 I might try it at some point.
Before that though, my VERY recently acquired, bargain priced, Myford ML2 has to be completely refurbed & restored, together with a large format, heavy duty pillar drill (70mm column!).
Thanks Bob. I must say it has taken a lot of experimentation to get repeatable results with the home anodising. As you have found, the finish is very durable. What I only found out recently was that the PH of the dye can vary quite a lot and if it is too alkaline, it won't take very well or at all. I purchased a digital PH meter and found that some dyes were PH 9! A few drops of hydrochloric acid got it down again though. There's always more to learn....
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 thanks for that! Highly useful tip. AND, at the moment, 36% Hydrochloric acid is perfectly legal in the UK so a simple PH meter can solve that problem for me too hopefully, although using Sodium Bisulphate may require a different PH or not even be bothered! We shall see! 👍👍👍
way cool bud,new subscriber here,thanks for sharing,im a old back busted trucker with not much to do so im impressed with these videos.keep up the good work and thanks for sharing....cheers from north carolina usa
That was brilliantly done by a genius, great to watch and I appreciate your attention to detail. Well done...
Great looking and functional part! Bravo!
Another great project and nicely finished as usual. The finish you achieve (anodizing, powder coating etc) really make your work stand out. I did miss the usual banter though.
Normal service will be resumed in the next video. I promise.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark. I have just made my self one and thank you for the PDF down load I am useing it on my emco maximat supper 11 works 100% a lot better than the old way to set up your tools. From Brian west germany
I am glad you found it useful. I actually just used mine today. I made a little 3D printed bracket for it so it doesn't have to roll around in the chip tray. The most useful feature is how quickly you can switch from setting conventional cutting tools, and, inverted tools.
Regards,
Mark
just subscribed, I'm going to be watching a lot more of your videos, thanks for taking the time to pass on your knowledge.
That is a great little tool that would be so very handy to have in the tool box.
Good job young man!
I think you will make a great teacher with a bit more work !!!
Onya sonya!!! Nooiiccee!!! Love it. It's on the list now for sure. God Bless
That tool turned out, well, perfect! Love the color and the engraving takes it up a notch. Very well done!
Really nice tool. The finishing touches put it over the top.
The job's not done until you make it look pretty.
Regards,
Mark
ok you got me. i had no clue what you were doing or how it was going to work, till the end. thanks for sharing!
Thanks, normally I would explain as I go but all that got edited out when I realised that I was working to a 30 minute video length. Thanks for watching to the end.
Regards,
Mark
Love it, my problem is the quick change holder is a bit inaccurate and the tool tip can be a bit off depending how one holds it when clamping. This sorts that and its on my lets make one list. Brilliant!
Lovely job mate 👍
Thanks for sharing.
Good one Mark ! The bearings really through me off...scratching my head till the end. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks. The prototype had only one bearing but the body of the tool wobbled about like a drunken sailor. Also, I cheaped out and bought Chinese skate bearings. Bad idea! I originally laughed when I heard that saying, "buy once, cry once". Now I understand what it means.
Regards,
Mark
And again, I'm very impressed! A nice challenge to reproduce this tool on my mini lathe ;-)
Great job making that beautiful and very useful tool. Thank you for sharing it with us.
I like it. I’m going to make one. I’ve seen several other types but this one appeals to me. ❤
I like it. Unfortunately a lot of people thought it was over done and too complex but it doesn't have to be anodised and it doesn't even need to be made of metal. Acetal or acrylic would be fine for the body. It could even be 3D printed.
Regards,
Mark
Pretty snazzy tool setter there. Well done.
Wow 30k! That’s a huge achievement. Great to see your hard work is appreciated.
Thanks John. Not quite there yet but getting close. I wonder if TH-cam will send me a cardboard play button?
Regards,
Mark
Simple yet efficient and accurate. Watch those fingers Mark.
Hello Mark,
A very nice design, I have not seen one like that before. An enjoyable video, thank you.
Take care.
Paul,,
Paul, Edge Technology make one similar but where I live they are very expensive.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark Very nice job and tool for the lathe. The coating finish very nice. Maybe a full video on protective coatings the good the bad and down right ugly?????
Check out my Metal Finishing With Mark playlist. th-cam.com/video/O2JgRoH6mdQ/w-d-xo.html
Regards,
Mark
Where could i find a boss like this? my boss never touch a lathe or mill.
I think you broke the rule Mr Preso, this's not a tool, its an art work!
Thanks mate. Praise from you means a lot to me.
Regards,
Mark
Great job, Mark !
With your equipment and your knowledge it's an easy thing for you.
The precision is overwhelming.
Thx for showing.
Best regards !
Thanks. Sometimes you get lucky.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, I generally don’t comment on some of the larger TH-cam channels. Seems like they already get enough comments to keep them busy responding. But I do want to say your work is always very impressive, and I enjoy every minute of it. In this field was no exception. Thanks for sharing. Gary
Gee, thanks Gary. I wouldn't put myself in the "larger" category but it's nice that you deem me worthy. I feel guilty sometimes watching the Tom Lipton's and Stefan Gotteswinter''s of this world and not commenting for the same reason. When are we going to do a sticker swap?
Regards,
Mark
Very nice tool setter. I’m going to have to add it to my ever expanding project list.
I have a list just like that.
Regards,
Mark
I enjoyed this as it showcased a lot of thought and techniques in machining, plating etc.
As a wise man once said " those that can, DO and those that can't, WHINGE"
Thank you. I appreciate that you saw the video for what it was. I did want to showcase some techniques and processes that I use regularly and that maybe some people haven't had the chance to try yet. It's all about sharing.
Regards,
Mark
@Preso58
Hi Mark
I've got an old Aussie made Advance Lathe which I've tinkered with over the years. It's a small model makers lathe, but I've recently picked up an old Harrison 13x40 and planning to do more substantial projects.
Channels like yours provide a lot of common-sense instruction.
Take me back to my days at tech in Ballarat back in the 70s.
I'm now interested in Anodising aluminium after watching your work.
Thanks again.
That would make a great addition to MY tool box. Wonderful project
Excellent design and manufacture 👏✔🧐.
Certainly more versatile than many crossslide height setters.
Again brilliant work and photography.
Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK.
John.
I made a 1inch chamfer d-bit a while ago, with a reduced shank (12mm) out of silver steel, 2 lathe operations (for the shank and cone), followed by a mill to half diameter, then some stoning followed by heat treatment and honing, it worked well for the chamfering, but sinced then I stick it in the three jaw on my lathe and use it to set tool height, it works a treat for finding centre vertically (normal and upside down) and horizontally
I agree that such a tool can be used and it's a lot less complex to make. I would encourage everyone to use the method that works for you.
Regards,
Mark
I’m most impressed with how well the rest of his tools are set up, feed rates and everything. I have to agree there are much easier ways of finding center and making a tool to set up your machine so that it makes everything good and correct but you don’t have machines that are set up good and correct yet.
That is a wonderful tool! I'm not a machinist, I watch @Cutting Edge Engineering Australia regularly and you showed up in my feed, and I have to say I'm glad you did, I'm now subscribed to two machining channels!
I too am a fan of Cutting Edge Engineering. What he does is scary and spectacular at the same time. Watching him parting off a 200mm chunk of high strength steel on power feed is "exciting".
Regards,
Mark
Thank You, learned something, really nice shop!
I'm a newbie. Got mill and lathe.. what a learning curve..!
So many things to like about this :D
Thank you very much for taking the time to film and shate your work Mark, this is definitely the kind of tool project I thoroughly enjoy doing ❤
Glad you enjoyed it!
Regards,
Mark
This man is a professional at his trade ,, nice
Absolutely BRILLIANT! Good on ya Mate. Thanks for sharing.
Very impressive tool, in my apprenticeship were taught to touch the toolbit onto our 6inch rule against the surface of the work piece. The rule gives a quick indication of offset either side of centre
Yes, that works well and I do use that method at times.
Regards,
Mark
Love your teaching skill (and your accent)
Good design and nice looking too
Good Show Mate: I must say I had no idea what the design was going to be like. Being lazy, I use a surface gauge and a steel plate I lay on the lathe ways. Works. Seems you had a little ASMR going there. That was fun.
Nice work mate! Ignore all the crap that often comes out in social media & just keep doing your thing. I'm a first time viewer & found this video interesting, that's for sure (I'm a bit of a frustrated hobby/wannabee machinist & find this kind of contend very encouraging! Cheers!!
Thanks. I think someone must have posted a link to this video on a forum somewhere and it has gained a lot of views very quickly. Typically, people tend to just scroll through it without paying attention to the summary at the end. I am glad you appreciated what I was trying to achieve.
Regards,
Mark
Very nice little tool to have and very well made, with great attention to detail.
great addition to the arsenal
Great build and a very nice, professional finish Mark. Catch up next week.
Thanks. Let's hope the weather improves.
Regards,
Mark
Such an interesting design, and beautifully crafted. Mark, you are such an inspiration 👌👏👏👍😀
That’s just plain fancy. Nice machine work.
Thank you. I regularly get comments stating that the tool is overcomplicated, too hard to make and not as simple as say, trapping a scale between the tool tip and the workpiece. I know all of this and the video was never meant to be a "simple" solution. It was more about how to carry out some processes that will make your projects look more professional and, as it happens, I use the tool regularly and I get accurate results with it. I am glad you found the video instructional. At the end of the day, that is what I want to achieve. Again, thanks.
Regards,
Mark
Amazing tool, with a lot of finishing steps, which could also be applied individually to other projects, i.e. even if I dont build the tool. Thank you.
Thanks. The tool design was probably a bit over the top but the main purpose of the video was to show how to carry out some of the finishing processes and machining steps that can be carried out in the home workshop.
Regards,
Mark
Thar was fun! I wondered about the Edge setting tool, mainly for the tiny carbide boring bars I use, which are 1.7 mm diameter, but I also need to set up 0.5 mm pitch threading inserts which are at steep angles. I think a modified version of your tool with a larger radius and smaller tip might work really well. Also, the colour is fabulous.
Thanks. I really should get some of those little carbide boring bars. I have seen Joe Pi using them and I get very jealous. I have about 8 different colours of anodisng dye but that violet colour is my favourite. I only found out recently that the PH of the dye is really important. I bought myself a PH meter and found out that half my dyes were way to alkaline. A few drops of hydrochloric acid gets them back into range and the parts colour up nicely.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 pH of the dye is interesting, I must have a check of this blue dye to see what it's acidity is. The Simtek tools are excellent although I think it's possible to grind them from scratch using a Deckel or similar. I made my own holders and the little boring bars last ages unless you do something brutal. Like knocking the carriage handwheel...
Very professional Mark, and many techniques demonstrated. It's a reference work. Cheers.
Thanks for that. It's probably way overdone but it sure does look pretty.
Regards,
Mark
Very useful tool. Good video with the machining clearly shown. Thankyou
Very nicely done! Looks great and works great.. Thanks for sharing. You are inspiring!
Good job Mark. I may have to make one.
Cheers
Willy
Very good workmanship! Retired now still do a bit of pt work. Wish they had something that accurate for a muti screw machine!
Hello Mr Pressling,
most would consider the job done after milling (and chamfering) work. But from the point of view of a professional, the work is only over when the result looks convincing. As a layman, I would never put so much effort into the finishing. You have my utmost respect.
I know it's a bit over the top but I wanted to make something nice to give away to a viewer when I get to 30K subscribers.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 ...so, I am too early 🙂. I hope the lucky subscriber can appreciate it.
Nice looking, practical and useful tool.
Nice work Preso, looks like another project that needs to get added to my build list…😂
That was great, A very useful tool, I would have liked you to show us how you did the CNC work, especially lining the engraver to the work. Great stuff. I'm looking forward to the next video.
I did an earlier video which shows the drag engraving process in more detail th-cam.com/video/yQokXzqxFzA/w-d-xo.html
Regards,
Mark
That’s nice workmanship! 👍
Looks great . Thanks for the drawings.
It was entertaining apparels you have a lot of ideal time I use
A height gage and indicates which I'm sure you have one with all the equipment you have the center off the tail stock is another quick reference especially with the type tool holder that you have the height gage also can measure up
For tools such cut off tool. It was nice to see you shop
Damn, that's a handy tool to have... all I need now is a lathe, a horizontal mill, a belt sander, some bits and bops , some metal stock,...😅 just have fun! Thanks for sharing, a couch like to watch metal worker (hahaha)
There is at least one bubble level based center adjusting tool I've seen but this one seems like a functional alternative. At first I thought that the adjustments went haywire when changing from tailstock to spindle but then my brain went on a thinking mode (rarely do) and I realized that the two measuring surfaces are actually equal.
I think the best way to calibrate this tool is to do the calibration with a tool whose cutting surface is upwards. Just do the calibration both in tailstock and in the chuck without changing the tool. Then it is easier to access the adjusting screw as well.
Cheers, Esko.
Why didn't I think of that? Since I finished the two tools and the video I have not actually used them. One is to be kept unused for the give away but the other is sitting by the lathe waiting until I return home. We are actually in New Zealand at the moment and we left just after the tools were finished. The design I came up with is a bit like the Edge Precision lathe tool setters. However, as far as I know they don't make one that will do both regular tools and inverted tools.
Regards,
Mark
I made one in 10 minutes. Screwed two plates on top of a pillar to be placed on the cross slide. The two plates look like an open scissors offering two surfaces for a normal tool and an inverted tool. No need to mount on any chuck which can be available unused or not. No need for late leveling. (the lathe may be free of twist but not necessarily level)
Pop the "Gauge" on the cross slide, wherever the slide happens to be, no movement. m
Move the tool older up or down for a rough adjustment and trim with the tool older adjusting knob to exact height. Done in 7.4 seconds.
The tool presented has one advantage: The same gauge will work on any of the seven different lathes you own.
I already have a small tool setter made from injection moulded plastic. It looks like something that would be given away on a trade stand or machinery show. It works and it's surprisingly accurate but you have to hold it with one hand while setting the tool height. I guess what I made was unnecessarily complex but it was a nice thing to make and to give away as a gift.
Regards,
Mark
What a great tool you have! Really good video
Thanks Preso for more great machining guides .
Dear Mark: really enjoyed watching this......best wishes from the Other 'Sunshine State', Florida, USA,,,,Paul...the video was Poifect !!!!
Thanks Paul. I am glad you enjoyed the build.
Regards,
Mark
Very cool tool. I've seen similar made by Edge Technologies, but I think I like yours better.
I usually use a scale, pinched between the tool and the stock to set the height. Your way is definitely more precise.
The scale trick is how I was taught as well… but this way is definitely better on the purple alone lol
My version was based on the Edge Technology design but it does have the capability to set inverted tools as well as conventional tools. The Edge Technology version is over $100 Australian so it's not exactly cheap (here).
Regards,
Mark
@NitroRustlerDriver there not a chance in hell, that using ANY tool with all those machined mating surfaces, with their potential for error, is "more precise" than simple geometry and physics....
I have always used the ruler method. A small diameter rod in the chuck and a 6" ruler.
Bring the tool up to the rod, pinching the ruler between them, then adjust your tool height so that the ruler is dead plumb.
Simple but accurate.
That absolutely works and I have used it myself but I wanted to make something nice to give away as a prize. I will be doing an announcement with details of the give away soon.
Regards,
Mark
Exactly the method I use, accurate enough for my hobby stuff
A brilliant little design and easy to use.
You sure do nice work Preso.!!
Very awesome tool Thanks for sharing the video
That’s an amazing project! Great video as well!
Hi mate from Athens keep up the good work.