@@jaidedeye they Rays are good quality, no doubt. Aluminum lugs come with their own set of issues though. The issue with aluminum is it’s not a lug nut that can handle a lot of on and offs for rotating tires, cleaning wheels and brake jobs before the threads round out. Aluminum lugs are disposable lugs. You get about 12 times off an on before the thread round out. If you get too much resistance when putting them on by hand, it’s time to replace them because you can snap them very easily. Lastly the aluminum and steel wheels stud, have a reaction that’s seems to accelerate corrosion since they are dissimilar metals which might be the cause of the deformed threads issue.
@@KuyaPow626 I’ve had 4 different sets of Muteki lugs, all rusted in the threads and the coating flaked of too which lead to the exterior rusting… then I had a set of Mishimotos, which where great, but being aluminum, they don’t like constant coming off and on a lot before the threads get rounded out. Then I picked up some NRG lugs and the paint just flaked off of those. And finally I’m on the R40’s which seem to be better quality than the other lugs. Time will tell. Each set is atleast $100, so where talking $700+ in lug nuts which all went bad either form rust or thread deformation. I’ll see how these r40 lugs do and if they rust I’m going all in and buying my last set of lugs which should not round out threads like aluminum or rust like steel. TITANIUM. I think my biggest issue was having to run open lugs since I have 3” lug studs. Caps would prevent the insides of the lugs rusting out. Eventually I’m going to downsize the ARP wheel studs to the 2” ones.
@@Subi_doo May be a stupid question but what about OEM lugs? None of my cars (20+ years or 2 years old) have ever had oem lugs rust. These flashy aftermarket ones seem to really be a downgrade not an upgrade.
Most quality lugs are alloy or aluminum like the Rays lug nuts and should not rust.
@@jaidedeye they Rays are good quality, no doubt. Aluminum lugs come with their own set of issues though. The issue with aluminum is it’s not a lug nut that can handle a lot of on and offs for rotating tires, cleaning wheels and brake jobs before the threads round out. Aluminum lugs are disposable lugs. You get about 12 times off an on before the thread round out. If you get too much resistance when putting them on by hand, it’s time to replace them because you can snap them very easily. Lastly the aluminum and steel wheels stud, have a reaction that’s seems to accelerate corrosion since they are dissimilar metals which might be the cause of the deformed threads issue.
Dude I have never had rust on my lugs, never. How are you on your 7th set and justifying a $400 titanium lug nut upgrade lol
@@KuyaPow626 I’ve had 4 different sets of Muteki lugs, all rusted in the threads and the coating flaked of too which lead to the exterior rusting… then I had a set of Mishimotos, which where great, but being aluminum, they don’t like constant coming off and on a lot before the threads get rounded out. Then I picked up some NRG lugs and the paint just flaked off of those. And finally I’m on the R40’s which seem to be better quality than the other lugs. Time will tell. Each set is atleast $100, so where talking $700+ in lug nuts which all went bad either form rust or thread deformation.
I’ll see how these r40 lugs do and if they rust I’m going all in and buying my last set of lugs which should not round out threads like aluminum or rust like steel. TITANIUM.
I think my biggest issue was having to run open lugs since I have 3” lug studs. Caps would prevent the insides of the lugs rusting out. Eventually I’m going to downsize the ARP wheel studs to the 2” ones.
@@Subi_doo May be a stupid question but what about OEM lugs? None of my cars (20+ years or 2 years old) have ever had oem lugs rust. These flashy aftermarket ones seem to really be a downgrade not an upgrade.