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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ย. 2013
- How to remove a stubborn brake drum. Watch how to remove a brake drum that is stuck on. I go through the steps so anyone can remove their drum brake.
In this case the drum adjuster was stuck so first try to get it off by wiggling back and forth. Then spray penetrating oil to remove rust between the drum and the seat. Then hit it with a hammer hard. This should free the drum if it is just rusted on. If the drum doesn't come off, then your brakes are probably stuck open preventing the drum from coming off. If this is the case, cut or drill out the holding pins from the back (that hold the shoes in place) and remove the screws to the brake cylinder and then pull the drum off.
Drum Brake Replacement: • How to Change Drum Bra...
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Started in the day light and still working past sunset! Such a trooper
Thank you. I was having a heck of a time getting my wife’s car rear brake drums off and found your video. I was able to get them off using a chisel from the backside like you showed with the crowbar. Thank You Much!
It's about time somebody actually shows how long it takes to do something. I'm tired of seeing people taking things off so easily. They just want to make you feel inferior for not being able do it as quick as they do. You always run into time-consuming things that Don't go right when working on your car. Thanks Chris for showing the real-time it takes to do something. This took all day!
This video was to show how long it takes to do a job when you dont have any clue what you are doing. He is using carpentry tools on a God damn brake job
@@nalgas5569 - the hammer didn’t matter, but you do you.
Just do it the right way.and if you don't know find a manual.
Sounds like a personal problem, mario.
@@Dozav7 you ever see a claw fly of a hammer due to the vibration of hitting metal. I did as a kid. and I did it. try not being so ignorant
VERY first step; Back off the adjustment on the shoes, then everything else you did.
I was gonna say that. TONS of effort to avoid using a brake spoon (or screwdriver) for 2 minutes
He says in the video that doing that didn't work, so that's why he's showing these other methods.
I did that too. Had a 78 chevy Nova both siezed on. I had to cut the drums into pieces with an angle grinder and cut off wheel and a chisel between each stud. I didnt a have a torch, just a propain type like he used. I have never ran into another one like that since eather.
1. Get a drum brake adjuster tool (very cheap n EXTRA Useful $8? ). 2. Put car up on jack stands n wear safty glasses. 3. Adjust th brakes by removing th oblong grey/black rubber adjuster hole cover boot on backside of drum. 3. Use brake tool pry portion or longish standard tip screwdrvr n stick in hole against th 20-30 star pointed brake adjuster wheel. Use flashlite to see star wheel. 4. Spray rust ease or lube onto star wheel. Looks like a cowboy spur. 5. N it is usually reverse threaded so tighten by prying up n or down n this will allow th shoes room 2 come back closer 2 each other. Releasing them, usually. 6. Now banging on th outer edge of th drum in a cross/star pattern will release th shoes from stuck open-against th drum's inner surface to free of th drum. 7. Once done u will need to re-adjust ur brakes. Get to a safe open space. Drive in reverse n hit brakes hard enough for a slight skid. This will re-adjust rear drum brakes on most cars. Safty first fun second.
Some cars doesnt have access hole for the adjuster, for example toyota yaris
Wow chris sounds cronical depressed in his older videos.
I think all this led to his current,
*HEY GUYS, CHRISFIX HERE*
ik right
haha no shit
He's making money now. Money can lift one out of depressing poverty.
ofc.. he knew he had to spend alot of hours to get this off XD Seriously it went from day to night!
for one thing... dont use a claw hammer... use a Big hammer and hit it like it owes you money
+TheAstro30 put the lug nuts on and run them down flush with the end of the stud... that way if you hit 1 chances are you won't damage it.. or just a normal nut if they have them stupid caps on the lug nuts
+james oldham Good tip, even if I never use it. I figure if I really screw something up, the cost will teach me a lesson in better hammer-swinging precision :)
+james oldham the bigger the better. in this case a 3lbs hammer wouldve done the job.
+imsolucky81 You boys forget the drum was wiggling the whole time. I would have cracked the bleeder. Correct me if I am wrong.
+Bill Hyslop not sure what you would be hoping to do with opening the bleeder?
***** You can rent a puller from any of the major parts stores and save you the pain of getting the drum off. If you cant get the puller, then definitely try this! Let me know how it goes!
Good call about the puller. Saved me so much frustration and probably some additional damaged parts.
was that your 1995 Ford Windstar ChrisFix?
Pullers are a life saver. I was doing front suspension and the strut was stuck so I had to take the whole spline out and whole disk and many times they get stuck so a puller is very useful
I used a puller also. it was so much easier than drilling and all that banging. the drum builds up a lip because the shoes wear away the drum. the lip keeps the drum from coming off.
+vishvgit trivedi yes it was
I mean it was useful. It made me realize that I had my ebrake on
Haha that happens to the best of us sometimes!
Smae here🙄😂
@@chrisfix replying to a 7 year old video, my man chris...need more people like you
Haha me too (hashtag, hahahaha)
Lol innit
Thank you for having the patience to do this video. It has greatly helped me with my brake drums this afternoon!!!
This is probably a small thing, but I appreciate the fact you don't use foul language in your videos. So many people do, and it is so unnecessary. This looked like a total bear to complete, and you did it with class. Kudos! I can't wait to see new videos.
+Joey Mele Thanks a lot! I make my videos family friendly because I want to encourage everyone to learn how to fix their car!
+ChrisFix I got to thinking about the stuck brake drum. Do you think a 2x4 across the wheel studs, and 2 adjustable clamps, one on each side of the back of the drum and over the surface of the 2x4 would give enough leverage to pop the drum loose? I don't know if there is enough surface on the back of the drum to bite. Obviously what you did worked, because you fixed this car like a boss.
+Joey Mele Agreed!!
Joey M
A 4X4 will bend less than a 2X4.
Better yet, a piece of steel, with clamps.
You got more patience than me, I had to have a little laugh, you started with daylight and ended up with a light.😂
Thank you for the transparency. You could’ve easily edited this video and made it look easy much appreciated
What I like from this video is that you never give up, look like it took some time but you finally did it 💥
Took a few hours but I got it!
@ChrisFix replying to a 4 month old comment on a 7 yo video.
Nice!
don't you hate that?? you working on the car and don't finish before night time.
I actually really dislike working on cars in the morning and with project cars of mine I always dig in around 7pm and stop at midnight.
True. But I admire how chris still does this while recording! Superb effort
I like to work in the evenings when it is cool outside. But I do hate when it turns night and I am still not done.
Oh I hate that and you finished with your back broken. ..
There is also the problem if it rains and you're outside, can't move the car of course and a puddle forms right where you need to be. The other thing is you can be at a crucial stage and you're called for dinner.
Man respect for being so calm hours later in the video just to take a drum brake off. I would of been yelling at the camera😂
seemed to work late into the night
I've been working on cars for 45 years and I never drilled the anchor pins out
Never saw that either.
Shrink brake shoes all the way in by backing off adjuster is the first thing you do, even if brake drum has lip on it from brake shoe wear, it will clear that edge. Wailing and flailing on it to the midnight hour ain't the way you get it off. A claw hammer??
Movement early on means it is catching, heat was not required.
Nice brake shoes by the way, throw the drums out as they are probably way beyond the max diameter now anyway. This has to be taking place in northern climes; never have this in Florida.
@@epic_smoke5203 ya thats great IF you had the drum off...hence the video
Woah, that looked like a battle man, well done for sticking at it.
Thanks!
You did it ALL WRONG....
You should have went to MIDAS or FIRESTONE. They would've charged YOU
$ 4800.00 for a whole"NEW" rear axle, told you they had to "special order it", and charged you up the
@$$ for shipping.
But then after you left ,they would have done the exact same thing that you did.
bill thompson they must suggest upsell for extra commission. Most everyone knows not to go to Midas but a friend didn’t know better and bout fell over when he got the estimate on simple brake job! They tried to say his frame was cracked too. Asked the guy to show him and what he pointed out was the edge of weld bead. Total BS.
Lmao sooooo true they got my sister like that.. Then she sued and actually won
I know it's a bad idea but hitting it a lot harder usually works
How's it a bad idea? Not gonna put more force through it than hitting a pothole at 40.
Not a bad idea at all, 20 years of working in the shop and that's how it's done. I come from the salty regions of the northeast, rust is a killer. You get large rust ridges keeping the drum from slipping over the shoes, even backing off the adjusters won't help (and they are usually rusted anyways). Between that and the drum rusting to the hub, the big hammer is the only answer.
@@robertkorn And then you get these ones where you can't actually get to the adjusters.
Fun fucking times. :P
1. Get a drum brake adjuster tool (very cheap n EXTRA Useful $8? ). 2. Put car up on jack stands n wear safty glasses. 3. Adjust th brakes by removing th oblong grey/black rubber adjuster hole cover boot on backside of drum. 3. Use brake tool pry portion or longish standard tip screwdrvr n stick in hole against th 20-30 star pointed brake adjuster wheel. Use flashlite to see star wheel. 4. Spray rust ease or lube onto star wheel. Looks like a cowboy spur. 5. N it is usually reverse threaded so tighten by prying up n or down n this will allow th shoes room 2 come back closer 2 each other. Releasing them, usually. 6. Now banging on th outer edge of th drum in a cross/star pattern will release th shoes from stuck open-against th drum's inner surface to free of th drum. 7. Once done u will need to re-adjust ur brakes. Get to a safe open space. Drive in reverse n hit brakes hard enough for a slight skid. This will re-adjust rear drum brakes on most cars. Safty first fun second.
It's so funny watching his videos from 7 years ago and then from recently. He's so much more melancholy in his old videos. Then his new ones he's super upbeat and excited 😆
Used to not be as excited to film haha
@@chrisfix yeah can definitely tell lol. Love the videos man. Thank you.
Hi guys. As my experience goes in 95% of cases it is always break shoes issue. By the time the break shoes create a groove inside the drum break surface and as result they stuck wide open. Also it always leaves a kind of lip as Chris mentioned so it is almost impossible to pull the drum off. Try to adjust the break shoes and if it does not work use just brute force - it will come out. Sometimes there is one or two holes in the drum forehead with thread inside. You can use some old screw screwing in that hole while the screw pushes against the hub and pulling drum of the hub.
First thing I learned in a high school metal working class was not to use a claw hammer to strike solid hardened metal. The face of the hammer head is case-hardened and could release shrapnel and caus eye injury. Use a heavy dead-blow hammer and, like on another post, "hit it like it owes you money. BTW, all that heating towards the outer edge of the drum is unnecessary. The fused part is towards the center where the axel flange mates to the drum and at the hole where the two are centered.
James Caison I’ve ruined bearings by using a torch for too long.
Man, really missing that modern day ChrisFix energy! Hahah
Wasn't as excited to film back then as I was now!
Use a bigger hammer.
Use PBS blaster works great. Dont peck at it, hit it harder
Lol, HULK SMASH
Pb blaster 🤘
Spent an hour with a hammer and then got the drum off in 30 seconds. Thank you Chirs. Wish I watched this first x
It's usually the ridge of rust that builds up around the inside of the drum that holds the drum on. What I do is I remove the drums once a year to inspect the brakes at inspection time. Then before putting the drums back on I use a Dremel tool with a grinding wheel to grind off the rust and get rid of the ridge. As such the ridge never gets too high and my drums never get stuck and they always slide right off. Removing the drums annually also prevents the drums from rusting to the hubs.
I always brush the hubs with thin coat of Anti-Seize lubricant.
I think his drums had a ridge and seized wheel cylinder .
👍
The first thing you do with when removing rear drums is to back off the adjustment to move the lining away from the drums.
We learnt that at school.
Sherie Thomas Thanks for sharing! When your adjuster is seized, this is how I got it off.
But with new vehicles almost all being 4 wheel disc drum brake work apparently is not taught.
Not once did he address the adjustment screw. He also fid not show spraying down the center hole which is much more likely to to rust and hold. He did increase the amount of cost of a break job. However this one looked to have been ignored for much too long.
Sherie Thomas How do you do thar?
Coy Patton He mentioned trying the adjustment but when the adjustment screw is broken it’s a moot point. In my experience the wheel hub fits snugly in the slightly recessed area in the center of a brake drum/rotor. It’s between the outside edge of the wheel hub and the inside edge of the recess that corrosion causes a drum/rotor to become stuck. Usually the flat face of the hub has very little corrosion and the center bore of the drum/rotor doesn’t have enough surface area contact to make it as difficult to pop loose.
I believe he already mentioned that the adjusters were seized (rusted) solid.
Man the way you say hey guys chrisfix has changed allot!
Depression version
Muhammad Faris HAHAHAH IM DYING
I realize this is an old video. I'm disappointed you did not show why the drum was stuck. You spent so much time talking about a problem you did not have. You did not say if your parking brake cable was moving freely, which could have complicated the problem. The only solid reason for your brake drum acting like it was rusted to the axle flange is that a ridge at the outside edge of the drum kept the shoes from clearing. Since the brake material looked shattered it seems clear it was caught on a drum edge made of rust or metal and rust. In the case of metal on the drum's edge it could excessive wear of the drum. Possibly not an OEM drum. I have learned a lot from your videos. You show so much detail which is great.
Thanks for sharing!
In 40 years of fixing cars I've encountered plenty of brakes (and wheels) that are stuck and I've been in very well equipped workshops or stuck in in the street with very little. A very easy fix for wheels binding on to the drum is just solid. loosen the wheel nuts a couple of turns and drive the car at about 5-10 mph for about 20 yards, and turn the steering wheel a little the bumping and the forces acting on the wheel will loosen it easily.
For the drums, take out the countersunk-head drum retaining screw or screws that are on the outside of the drum between the studs, put the wheel back on 2-3 turns loose and again, drive a few yards and turn the steering wheel both ways and the drum will be loosened enough for you to start wrestling it off. You may have to loosen the nuts even more if, as in this clip, the brake shoes have a wear ridge. Make sure you don't go very fast and you have a clear road,
thanks for sharing your experience that is a great idea and its so simple , i cant believe i never figured that one out lol thank you so much for an awesome great idea its one im gonna keep in my tool box like one of my favorite tools my brain ,, its really the simple things that fix the worst problems and you really added a lot and i apreciate it thanks again !!!!!!!! when i learn a new mechanic trick for a hard to solve problem i will let you know thats what its all about !! thanks for sharing !!!!!!!!
back and forth
Is this for front, or rear drums? You mention 40 years and your mention turning the steering wheel, so it makes wonder and want to be sure.
Jay Igaboo
Thats how you screw up your wheel studs.
@@MrTravisAl
The side to side movement causes the drum to loosen, because of the force being applied.
man you just have to whack it real good and it should just come right off. stop whacking it like you're using a purse bruh.
+Noell Frilles thanks for sharing your tip.
Noell Frilles sometimes the drum gets micro cracks around the stud holes.
Noell Frilles
Sometimes you just gotta whack it with your tip.
Except one of my dad's friend did that once and broke the fucking drum, the center was still attached.
This dude has way more patience than I could possibly ever have.
You spent some time on this. It went from daylight to complete night while you worked. Congrats!
***** Do you mean the rear shoes are keeping the drums from coming off? Or is it rear disc brakes on your car?
+ChrisFyesix
mini sleg or large ball-peen hammer and you can also wedge ever bigger tools and pry thr drum away
Hey Chris, could I use WD40 for the penetrating fluid?
I've used that Kano stuff he's using, and it's a unique product - WD40 is not the same thing
ChrisFix online-go.com/game/1858711online-go.com/game/1858711online-go.com/game/1858711
Great videos! The camera work in particular is excellent. They're nice and clear, zoomed in when needed, and you don't prattle on needlessly, but get to the point...really appreciate that. Thanks...
I had the exact same problem 20 yrs ago, wore a lip on the drums that prevented removal. Unfortunately, after finesse failed, I let the pent-up gorilla out. Most memorable was the frustration and cursing I was experiencing, like I wasn't even myself. My neighbor across the street walked over and asked if I was OK. That brought me back to my senses. Too bad your video was around then. Thanks for sharing.
Back the brakes off in the adjustment hole.
reaeshoes
A good heavy slide hammer on the inside lip on the drum works very well also!
+Jarno Saarinen Great tip! Thanks!
Excellent video. You covered lots of ways of dealing with the problem. And you encouraged lots of other guys to give up some of their knowledge too. Nice one man. Thanks
+Rupert Leanna thanks
This video gives people encouragement for here we see real life scenarios, were a whole day going into the evening is used tackling this issue. other videos make everything so clean and sterile where no problems can befall the DIYer, This is the reason I like the videos by Chris and if it was not for the fact that I am disabled I would definitely be a proud patron for the videos Chris produces are informative and real life.
In all my decades I’ve never seen a drum stuck that bad. Good thinking on figuring that one out
It was pretty frozen!
Dude- That looked Like it took all day... and it always does for me too. Thanks for the tips.
Don't be afraid to hit the Drum harder.... it's thick metall, if u would just Bring a real seldge hammer, and Hit harder around the Drum and (between the Studs) u almost never have to hit it from behind. Keep the videos up !
Dosen't matter how hard u hit on the drums, it will handle it. And will come off much easier.
Allot of times on drum breaks the shoes wear a groove which leaves a lip where the shoes were not contacting. The shoes will expand to fill the gap on auto adjusting break drum systems. Which will keep the drums from pulling off. You did right to loosen the adjusters off. But still sometimes it's still hard to get them off. They will spin and wiggle but still sometimes they will be locked in the groove that has been worn into the drum. It just takes some beating and pulling and usually they will come off. I wouldn't drill the shoe retainer pins. Just pry, pull, and just a mallet or hammer and they will come off. Yes it takes allot of work.
That's pretty much what happened here!
I couldn't drill the pins either. I tried using a torch to anneal the steel to make it softer. That did nothing. I bought a carbide bit for about $7, and it worked!
(Just leaving this comment for anyone else that has trouble with the pins.)
Today my son mentioned your videos and agree you young man are exilent and probably the best help one you tube.
I hope you realize that your skills are helping many fixes and keep our autos on the road safely
Thanks for Teaching Sir
Thanks a lot!
I quit agreeing when you broke out the flaming torch. If the shoes are not fully backed off via the adjuster, anyone will struggle. All drum brakes should have a hole in the backplate if they don't have a hole in the drum. You'll be lucky if you don't mess up the shoe retainers, levers and adjuster if you use a puller.
Now I'll watch the rest ofthe vid.
+wordreet Ok, good job. Heh, I see it got a bit dark at the end. I've been there. ;¬)
Luckily I never had to undo the slave cylinder, but that's a good trick. I like it.
Yep, I popped the rear disc off a few days ago, and the anchoring pins came along with it. The holes for anchoring pins becomes collateral. Have to use taper washer to allow pins to anchor again.
wordreet
The heat is great for the wheel bearings, too.
I really like all your videos.Very detailed and unpretentious.Awesome mate.Keep up the good work
Thanks Chris. Your videos are focused, complete and perfectly paced.
Thanks!
Your doing a great job Cris. I love watching your vids.
To all you know it alls. Make your own videos. If your so genius.
Cris keep it up👍
Great video with excellent step by step procedures starting from most easy to most difficult 😎
+John Gregg thanks John
Screwdriver on each end of the Hub and just pull forward and it'll come loose you have a ridge on your drum that's holding the brakes it's not allowing the brake shoes to go by
exactly it's the ridge (the part of the drum surface that the brakes shoes don't wear out, loosen the brakes adjuster all the way!
My mechanic just hit the drum like there's no tomorrow
Thanks bro you save my life .i was having a hard time i was going to call a mechanic he was going to change me 90dlls.thanks again
Before attempting to do this safety first the guy didn't mention he had already fitted a safety axel stand and had the trolly jack in place as well fantastic The safety features was there but not mentioned. The problem was the brake shoes were expanded to far into the brake drums which are worn and the shoes are not allowing the drum to slide of. Using releasing fluid is great but the hammer used is to small I think before any hammer is used protect your eyes use safety goggles! rust bits will go everywhere. Use a large ball pain hammer don't tickle it with a claw carpenters hammer hitting at alternative side blows will remove it Remember if the lip inside the drum is to deep the drum will have to be replaced anyway. Andy
Thanks for the tips. I dont mention the safety stuff you need to do to get to that point because that is not my job. I was just explaining different methods of getting the drum off. There is too much liability involved in telling people how to jack up a car and use a jack stand and stuff. As for the hammer, I didnt want to damage the bearing with a larger hammer so I just stuck with the little hammer to show how to break the drum free from the hub (it was rusted together). Thanks
90 percent of the drum brakes being disassembled are not stuck at the studs, they are stuck at the center hub.
They rust tight there especially in the "rust belt" states.
Thanks for the tip!
Yeah so spray lube th drum rite near th axle cap n hit it enough that heat from hammer blows break loose th rust grip.
Usually there is a ridge cut into the edge of the drum from the brake shoes. The shoes are expanded out and can stop the drum from sliding off. Given the movement at the studs and at the center bore, I suspect that this is where the resistance is coming from.
Nevr Seez around hub prevents this
The center hole is precise and keeps the drum shoe surface at the specific radius so there is no pulsation. Easily rusts.
Most people that attempt auto mechanic work as diy don’t have the right tools. So this actually makes great info about how to get things done even if you are short a hub puller, air pressure, ball peen shop hammer, and other mechanical tools needed to do this quicker. Great work bro. This will help so many people. I’ve seen some of the. Eat auto body pros using claw hammers to pull studs and remove dents in half the time of others using correct tools. A tool is a tool. Using what you got accounts for the tenacity needed to work on Cars, period. Unless a professional and doing b J’s all day everyday . These jobs can sometimes take an entire afternoon to restore. Staying with it is the key. Never give up.
let just start off by saying you are my favorite DYI guy on you tube. i have followed alot of your videos in all my car repairs, details paint and etc. Just got my rear drums off thanks to your video. i had the same issue and used a pry tool to get those stubborn drums off
It was encouraging for me to see that you started out while it was daylight and that you were still trying to get them loose when it had actually become dark outside. I often encounter situations like this (e.g., rear drums on my 1st gen Mazda RX-7) and I have often wondered if I was doing something wrong or overlooking an easier way to do it. But, here I see that it even happens to the best of mechanics. That was very helpful from a mental and motivational standpoint. Thank you and keep up the good work!
For drums that are stuck on because of corrosion/rust, an oxy/fuel torch is the best solution to this problem IMO. Simply heat between each stud for a few seconds- and the drum will expand a tiny bit when heated. Then tapping with a big hammer will release the drum. Works every time! :-D
Thank you man, this saved me so much time, they were stuck on and nobody in the shop could get them off, ran the torch in between the studs and smashed it a hammer twice and pop, they came right off
@@walkerduncalf8630😃😃😃
This is the lock picking lawyer, and today we have something special. A lock from our dear friend, ChrisFix.
He sent us this older design called the seized brake drum, and i'm going to show you how I picked it open using a lego man and a plastic fork in under 5 minutes.
I had a young know it all kid at work who never listened, always knew what he was doing. I watched him bring a pickup in and put it on the lift. Part of our service was pulling wheels and checking brakes, making sure wheel cylinders weren't leaking, etc. Well, he couldn't get the drums off. Hit with hammer. Tried prying. PB Blaster. I let him hit the hubs with the torch for about 15 minutes of heating and beating before saying "Did you release the parking brake I heard you set when you came in? 😁🤣
Thank you toyota for having those screw holes in the drum saved me big time
What size and tpi bolt do need for that?
@@josephg.3370 M8x1.25
You're awesome! Thank you so much!
@@josephg.3370 This was on an 03 corolla, I don't know if bolts are different on other models.. Check toyota nation dot com forum
It's always nice to know tricks like this and it's really great that you're helping the world🚘⭐👍
Hi Chris fix. Thanks for all your auto fix videos. I'm 72 and no longer do to much work on even my own car. Back in the day though stuck drums were the norm this how we handled this problem. you did well but forgot to use penetrating oil in the part of the drum around the hub where to wheel bearing is you did the lugs but not the hub Spinning the drum to make sure the brakes were not engaged is also needed which you did. Back in the day I also use a 2 or 3 pound mini sledge hammer and tapped the brake drum on its edge closest to the hub where the wheel bearings are and that would also break the drums grip on the axle hub. In essence. A stuck drum. First spin the drum make sure brakes are not applied or holding the drum. Then with penetrating oil spray the lug stud holes and the hub on the axle that the drum sides onto. Then with a 2 or 3 lb mini sledge hammer tao around the drums edge closest to the hub on the axle the drum slides over. Now the drum should easily slide right off. Thanks again. Chris. Fix keep up your great work.
Chrisfix has sure come a long way since this video
bro thanks alot man it actually work alot of respect to you and blessing over you and your family thanks alot
the hammer always does the job... a biger hammer
@TOM ALWAYS!!!
So inventive, no one anywhere ever tryed those methods.
Thank you for showing people what real life drum changing looks like
Man that drum cover put up a fight. Persistence paid off though. Nice job.
+Matt K Thanks Matt!
Thank you for the great videos.
Drum cover? It's just a drum. No cover. That thing? That's the drum.
How about backing off on the brake shoes to get by the lip worn into the drum 🤷♂️
5:35 That feeling when it finally comes off.
Thanks for making it real and showing all of the possible problems, mine is being very stubborn but now I won't give up 👍
I'm A 62 YO retired wrench in the land of salt and snow ( AKA Minnesota) and I could bore you to death with brake drum story's. Wait till you get one where the bonding fails and the brake shoe material travel's around until it gets trapped between the drum and the other shoe! That dude came to A real quick stop and I ended up cutting the drum off with the gas ax.
As far as people barking at you about harming the drum I would suspect you had to replace it anyway seeing as the shoe cut A groove in it. Can't turn them after A certain point people!
Also A few people mentioned using A puller but the wheel stud's on this rig are on the Axel flange and not incorporated into the drum therefore A slide hammer puller won't work and I don't think A jaw type puller would fit between the backing plate and the drum. I have welded stud's to drum's such as this so A slide hammer puller could be used but I knew that I was going to replace the drum so no harm no foul. You also need welding equipment and most back yard mechanic's don't have access to welding machine's.
Also as far as hammer's go I like to use A 2 or 3 pound lead or bronze hammer. Not cheap especially the bronze hammer but they will give you A solid strike without the chance of destroying A good drum. Lead hammer's you can make. Just save up A bunch of wheel weight's and melt them down, stick in A pipe for A handle and let it cool. Make the mold look something like A hammer.
Good luck in the mechanic trade. Not many people want to get there hands dirty these day's. Kudos to those that do!
Gary Ronan Thanks man and thanks for the tips and stories!
I just went through this few days ago 2012 F-150 rear brake, they are disc brakes, but there's a small drum for the parking brake.
Was able to adjust the starwheel some for extra clearance, but still a PITA!
Yup northern Michigan I Know what your saying about road salt LOL
I like the large hammer approach, but there's no way I could collect that many wheel weights.
And breathing in lead fumes is bad for my brain cells.
What about a regular 2 pound sledge hammer? Menard's has a 2 pound sledge hammer for just $8 and tax.
Claw hammer? Were you expecting to see some nails? Invest in a 4 lb. Sledge, set your purse down and smack it!
ChrisFix don't listen to Mark. Never put down your purse on the floor. Its bad luck. Instead open the car door and hang it on the edge of the door. Then smack it hard.
I'm crying 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Lol his purse wasn’t the only issue he was trying to work in 6 inch heels 👠
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Out of all the videos I have seen I am surprised that no one has mentioned the following: This will work on the front only of older American rear wheel drive cars and trucks.(some foreign also) The brake shoe adjustment should be backed off a little if possible. Take the hub dust cover, adjustment nut, and outer wheel bearing out and the hub/brake drum assembly will slide off in one piece. You can then do all your brake work and if the hub and drum are not damaged put them right back on stuck or not. If the drum has to be turned or replaced it can be separated from the hub on your shop press. Much easier to work with on the floor than on the vehicle.
Chris, Ive had many a drum stuck on especially my old 40s -60s army trucks. I spray the oil yes, but I take an air chisel type tool, without the chisel attachment of coarse and insert a flat blunt attachment and vibrate the area between the studs and it always has come off. I coat the contact area between the drum and hub with anti seize to make sure it never happens again.
Thanks for the tip!
the very reason mfrs are moving to disk brakes , a better system , and easier to service... drum brakes just turn into a big lump of rust in a few years...
+bones007able I still dont get how drum brakes are cheaper for them to produce.
Wheel cylinders are cheaper than calipers. It doesn't save a lot, but 2 of them per car times hundreds of thousands of cars, and all of sudden it starts making sense. There are people whose sold job it is to find ways to save a few cents on each vehicle.
No, it's because it is LESS complicated, cheaper to make, and is easier to assemble in the plant.
The thing with Drum brakes while harder to service, they last a lot longer than a disk brake system.
Hell I have seen vehicles that were 20+ years old 200+k miles and still have fully functional Manufacturer systems and shoes on them.
They overheat very easily
this is like 100% BADASS Drum for ever...love your videos Chris...BIG LIKE
Take the rubber window plug off the back if equipped and turn the slack adjuster. Also, emery cloth the hub and clean with an ice pick, sharp knife etc down where the hub is meeting the drum. If not equipped with holes to thread bolts into the holes, can you drill your own and tap with a tap threads on your own. Drilling into the hub is not a big deal but this would be a last resort. I would suggest spraying penetrating oil 24 hours in advance before doing a brake job. That way it has time to soak in. The bottle torch is also a good idea as long as you don't get carried away with the heat. Good luck!!! Wear safety glasses too when hammering on things people!!!
Thanks for the tips!
Never underestimate the power of Kroil. That stuff is amazing! It's expensive but can't be beat.
You need a bigger hammer... You said it yourself, don't be afraid to hit it hard. it looks like you were choking up to much and barely swinging. When doing drum brakes i have a 4 pound brass hammer i use to free up the drums.
I like the idea of drilling out the pins for the shoes. I haven't heard of that before.
jared thomas Thanks Jared. The idea was to show a different method if you cant get the hammer to work.
One other way that helps a lot is to set your emergency brake so it doesn’t spin and you can get more leverage on the drum to remove it without it moving.. one other thing you can do with both back tires bring off at the same time which isn’t too often (to have both wheels off at the same time) is to change and flush your muffler bearings… hope this helps all of ya, it did for me. 👍👍
If you pull the e brake you’ve just forced the drum pads directly against and into the hub with pressure and a vengeance. No way to break the hub lose then…the brake shoes were what was actually holding it on.
@@MrCbell57 lol it was a joke. Mufflers don't have bearings either. Plus everyone knows you get a stuck drum off by removing the piston return springs and making sure you have enough blinker fluid!
Super. Clear. Instruction. Thank you. Very good vid ‘
As I watched day turn to night I knew this was a "real" and accurate video, been there
بارك الله فيك اخي
I think all drum brakes should be banned! lol
They've been outdated for 50 years, but they continue to put them on cheap cars. It's like if they continued to install Windows 3.1 on cheap PCs to save a few bucks.
Roadstar1602 you want to know what I don’t understand? Why are drum brakes cheaper the disc brakes? Drum brakes have more parts to them than disc brakes. That doesn’t make any sense as of why drum brakes are cheaper
@@kingjlinza they require less precision.
And they fucking suck.
Dan, drum brake last longer n more efficient . it's easier to replace,so after using brake calipers for 4 yrs I replace to drum brake. It's personal choices.
You have saved me. I tried the bolts method, but it didn't budge. Then I sew your video, and used the oil method. This made the drum loose. Thanks.
Went through this a couple days ago. Took 2 hours to get one drum off of a 2003 Ford Ranger and it was on a LOT tighter than the drum in this video.
We have a "special" hammer for jobs like this. A large ball peen hammer with a 12" metal pipe for a handle welded to it. We also used a couple of 24" pry bars, a steel wedge and drilled out the pins.
I've never seen the amount of corrosion that this drum and all of the springs / parts had.
The best part is, once we put the drum back on, it's time to do it all over again on the other side.
There's a slot on the back of it cover with a rubber seal take that off and there's an adjustable wheel grab a flat heat loosen it up, then it will realise very easily
I THINK YOU FORGOT TO CURSE !
irooni100 i did my one ton the other day i more than made up for his lack of cursing 😂😂
In 2 or 3 different languages if possible.
If the return springs are broken, cursing is indeed essential.
i once got so angry with something on my project car i started to swear in 3 languages
5 minutes in: No kurva doprdele!
30 minutes in: Fucking hell!
1.5 hour in: PERKELE HAISTA VITU!
Chris fix can you make a video about how to remove a seized wheel?
9 years later.... lol
This brings back bad memories.
Brake shoes wore into the drums creating a lip.
I'm pretty sure I have the same problem again.
I'm thinking of taking a die grinder/cutting wheel to the drum...
pfffffft....
The video show the person hitting the brake drum on the edge. Tat is the perfect way to warp or bend the drum. He should be using a malt and a soft punch to hit the drum between the stud, where it contact the axle or hub. This is where the rust is binding things up. The drum comes off a lot faster and doesn't get warped.
Adjust the shoes! That oblong hole in the backing plate.
Thank you so much! I fixed my fiat 850 brakes, now i just have to unseize the engine :(
Pour trans fluid or coca cola down the spark plugs hole. Install spark plugs. Let sit 3 days, remove spark plugs, bar engine over back n forth slowly til it frees. Change oil cross fingers and start it after new plugs are installed.
Man! you really have the patience to do something like that. I would have it hit it like my biggest enemy. Thank you for taking the time to filmed a video like that.
This helped me so much with my square body. Thanks
I remove my rear drums once a year at inspection time to check the shoes. While the drums are removed I grind off any lip that may have formed on the drum during the previous year. I never have any trouble getting the drums off. They always just slide right off.
Thanks for the tip!
I thought you said ear drums 😂
This is why no vehicle should have ever been manufactured with drums after discs were introduced.
Robert Beard Yep. I dont know how this is cheaper than disc brakes.
ChrisFix it's not. but putting a parking drum inside of a disc rotor costs more than just having a drum with two pads.
also I've had way more square cut seal failures on caliper pistons than I've had wheel cylinder failures. drum brakes are an excellent backup in dual (every car since '67) master cylinder brake systems. they tend to fail much softer than discs,which can just up and stop working.
Logan Mailandt Good points!
@@EpicHeroSandwich just you need a professional to adjust the front drums,so the car wont pull one side when braking.
Thanks for this video! I am doing this now and the last thing I’m doing now is removing the bolts on the wheel cylinder. Hopefully it just all falls apart lol
EXCELLENT!!! I have a 66 Chevelle witha stuck wheel ( been sitting for ten years or more). Your tip of drilling the pad-retaining pins and removing the two brake-cylinder bolts should be the ticket for me :)
My only possible next-nemesis is if the wheel bearing is seized. If that's the case, I can use my hydraulic-jack handle with some good chain laced through the holes on the wheel and apply downforce (me at 230lbs hehehe)
Thanks for reminding me about drum brakes - it's been too long since I worked on 'em :)
Dan Gibbs :)
Awesome! Thanks a lot!