I was thinking that myself. Not sure plumbing it helped, you need some support off of the other stringers. Cut it 1 1/2 back and throw a solid kick on, maybe some blocking
I usually attach the bottom of the stringers with 2x sub riser to hold them square and act like a beam to support the bottom step in the concrete and then attach the post between the first and second step just for more room for attachment
They should, if you live in a place where it rains and you place them right on the concrete it rots the wood. I live in a very rainy place and if I did this the bottom wood would be completely rotten after 2-3 years especially if its not impregnated with anything.
Who uses a post base for a handrail post? Also, PT stringers on a a proper concrete pad… yes. Only thing i would do different is notch the bottom and install a full cleat so i can screw down into the concrete. Nothing he did was wrong
Two-things wrong 1) the posts need to be anchored and attached further back on the stringer for more support. 2) The stringers need a 2"x6" attached to each one and I usually put one on each side of the center stringer. Not sure why it's 5 1/2" overhang on the threads, doesn't make sense to me, but he might just like the look. Idk.
Attach your post inside the stair stringer. That way you can install full blocking around it. I'm aware you have to keep them inline with the posts already attached on the deck but that's why you lay everything out before hand. Anyways great work keep on keeping on!
Do you anchor your stringers where they sit on the pad below? I typically have used either a PT 2x4 attached to the concrete & notch the bottom toe of the stringers to accept it or use hold downs inside the stringers, anchored to the slab.
I always entirely cover cut edges with a good building adhesive, to keep water out of the grain, it doubles the life of the stair stringers even if the wood is treated.
@@pueraeternum That would depend on what wood you're using. Most Douglas Fur is delivered or bought wet and when the end grain allows the moisture to escape. The boards develops splits on the ends. If you're looking at using a hardwood like oak and you're in an environment that has a lot of moisture like the beach , then yeah you have to seal all the board well.
@@pueraeternum I may have misunderstood you. If you're cutting stringers and you have end grain. It should be sealed with a good building adhesive. I would suggest a caulk tube of PL or subfloor adhesive.
@@bigballox6454 I think I'm picking up what you're putting down and as an American all I can say is "definitely a unique but probably an entirely deserved quip" sir.hahaha
So if he bought exactly the right amount, cost would be lower, so who paid for them? Not the last customer unless you made a deck smaller than promised.
Amazing how many obvious issues are packed into one video. I wouldn't comment if it was 1 here or there I usually chalk minor discrepancies up to personal preference. The base of the stairs aren't anchored to the concrete and are in direct contact so you'll have wiggle and rot. The stringers seem to widely spaced for 5/4 board so you'll get sag possibly. Timber screws instead of threw bolts wont last. I have my way of doing things and if I posted a video I'd expect to be nit picked. Some people are more sensitive to constructive criticism than others
Master carpenters? Lol I think they are giving the guy criticism for a reason and from what I’ve read, they’re not wrong, it doesn’t take someone with 30 years behind the job to tell these things… quit complaining lol
I got 40 years + in the trades, this ain’t how you anchor railings & absolutely not how to set wood on concrete, all 50 states require a moisture barrier & the posts have to take a minimum of 250 lateral load which no strapping will maintain, there’s a reason it’s called STANDARDS, you should be able to go anywhere & build anything & know it’s code by year 2, when I was a pup youngsters were hired to help speed a job, now y’all do anything but HELP,you millennials are just something else & it ain’t good, respect is EARNED, period
Why do 5 1/2” over hang ? I build custom decks for a living I usually put my posts on the inside of last stringer . Trim sides of stringers and kick boards then overhand 1”. Your way is not wrong just wondered why people do it like this instead of the way I explained
The way you do it is perfectly good. The way I did it Is simply for aesthetics. I think it give it a bigger look. No one can step in that overhanging step tread because it will be under the handrail. I just like that style more for my house.
@@Rlazalier are you not doing the same by commenting that ? Only difference is his was one the video he watched yours is on another man’s opinion that you went looking for and now crying that you found it
The newel party is never going to be guaranteed straight and plumb, and as it dries it could change drastically. Good to see an honest review of the qualities of timber
stringers will rot quickly where it's 1/4" off the concrete. Learned that one the hard way years ago. And as others have said below, the newels at the bottom will be loose as sh*t but im sure you've already had to deal with that
Wait.... That's your house !! Sad to see the death of the craftsman... A Craftsman would have built something to be proud of on his home not a set of mobile home stairs...
Let me tell u it doesn't matter about dirty bds.the 1st posts isnt going to hold 6 months u think 6" screws going to hold the post wrong, there's no anchoring,these carpenters hit an run. !!!
I'm not a carpenter, I'm an electrician so i may be wrong. Aren't the stringers supposed to be anchored to the landing to prevent them from trying to slide foward?
Pre cut all treads and install then the stringers will be straight. Hey google Dupont Registry 2004 or 2005 i dont remember. Check out the cover, thats my 9 ton solid marble radius floating stairway.
Anytime you are putting stairs down to a cement pad/landing it’s so much easier, and better for the longevity of the stairs to ... put your rail posts IN the cement, not on it... lol. I don’t generally comment to critique but I just couldn’t help myself. I would have poured the pad once I had my stringers in place with the posts attached to the stringers and had them braced while the cement set up. Works a million times better.
@@MordecaitheBuilder NO, you as a contractor (supposedly) should know what's what. That term should roll off your tongue when a level is vertical it's plum. When Horizontal it's level. See how easy that was. For not knowing, I would think twice about hiring you. Customers are educated and pick up on these things. But hey, it's your business. Happy New Year :)
Great job thanks. Stairs are the hardest to get the math right. I've seen a lot of amateurs try it and the next day after the inspector gets there, throw it all in the dumpster. flushing up the top step with the top of the deck is by far the easiest way to get started. Otherwise you have to measure down about 7 1/2 inchs and well it just gets very complicated. It's best to make a cardboard template and hold it up there and look at it.
Looks good but you should always use wood preservative on the cut stringers and the board end cuts or you’re kind of defeating the purpose of using treated wood. Plus put a barrier between the lumber and the concrete.
They make a concrete anchoring system for a post base. You can add it when the concrete is wet or with anchors after it's cured. Wiggley handrail posts are a pet peeve of mine.
I couldn’t tell if you were pre-drilling or not I hope you were. Where is your ice and water shield on top of the treads? Without that they will rot faster
Those newel posts should be setting on some hardware and anchored into some concrete. Those stringers need to sit flat. I hope you use end cut solution because you didn’t tape the top of those stringers. They will rot.
Would’ve put a bracket with a few concrete anchors down for those posts for some added rigidity then some kind of metal flashing for a barrier between the wood and the concrete
Not a bad job with the stringers but I am definitely not a fan of using decking board for what should absolutely be 2x8-2x12 pressure treated for the steps. Full width plus overhang.
Next time, instead of cutting the bottom rise shorter by the thickness of the treads, cut it the same height as the rest. Put your stringers against your deck and shim bottom until the stringer is higher than the deck by thickness of tread. Then use tread to scribe bottom of stringer to whatever it is sitting on. It allows the stringer to make full contact with whatever it is sitting on. Your welcome.
If you don't want to knotch out the bottom of the stringers for a 2x4 cleat to be installed at least pressure block between your stringers at the bottom an pin them down to the concrete. Also use a abu66z for your 6x6 post base next time. Run 1/2 or 5/8 ths bolts thru the abu into your outside stringer. Everything is bolted an pinned to the concrete that way. But hey it's your house not mine or a customer's.
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Anytime I've ever installed steps I've always anchored the 6x6 into the ground at the foot of the steps
I was just curious is there a reason you didn't
Gonna have some wiggly term posts
Where are the steel concrete post embeds. Simpson cbsq 66 dummy
They wiggle lol
I was thinking that myself. Not sure plumbing it helped, you need some support off of the other stringers. Cut it 1 1/2 back and throw a solid kick on, maybe some blocking
Don’t lean on those posts!
Was wondering why he didn’t mud it in or use ties/anchors.
Nice work but it’s perfect plumb when you hold the level vertical, level horizontal 👍
That’s what thought of lol
Gets me every time I hear it.
I once knew a man that would clamp 2 beads onto a post to level it. So fucking funny
@@M.Godfrey I almost pissed my pants when I read that. Good one cuz
@@M.Godfrey lmfao
When holding a Level straight up and down is called "Plumb"
Beat me to it. This guy is greener than the ground contact pt he’s using
I was going to call him on it too bro
@@biguprochester Just still Wet behind the Ears. And am sure that he is learning as he goes. Without any Teachings.
You want a cookie or something for that revelation
You know what a plump line is
Wow. All 3 stringers have ~ 1/2” gap with the concrete pad at the tip.
Should have been scribed to the concrete
I usually attach the bottom of the stringers with 2x sub riser to hold them square and act like a beam to support the bottom step in the concrete and then attach the post between the first and second step just for more room for attachment
Shouldn't the bottom posts be anchored to the concrete pad?
They should, if you live in a place where it rains and you place them right on the concrete it rots the wood. I live in a very rainy place and if I did this the bottom wood would be completely rotten after 2-3 years especially if its not impregnated with anything.
No post bases, no plates, wood on concrete? Hmm..yeah brother!
Who uses a post base for a handrail post? Also, PT stringers on a a proper concrete pad… yes. Only thing i would do different is notch the bottom and install a full cleat so i can screw down into the concrete. Nothing he did was wrong
People who want a stand-off from water and want things to last. To each their own. You’re right it’s not wrong, but it could be better.
Yeah that was the first thought I had those posts will rot nothing on them to protect against wet weather😮.
@@stuartsharples9520 that’s a ground contact post. It won’t rot out for a long long time.
No risers either
Two-things wrong
1) the posts need to be anchored and attached further back on the stringer for more support.
2) The stringers need a 2"x6" attached to each one and I usually put one on each side of the center stringer.
Not sure why it's 5 1/2" overhang on the threads, doesn't make sense to me, but he might just like the look. Idk.
Absolutely. I'd also block the lower stringer/tread.
Wrong it’s on the wrong side of the stringer and it’s not blocked in it doesn’t need to go further back
Attach your post inside the stair stringer. That way you can install full blocking around it. I'm aware you have to keep them inline with the posts already attached on the deck but that's why you lay everything out before hand. Anyways great work keep on keeping on!
Do you anchor your stringers where they sit on the pad below? I typically have used either a PT 2x4 attached to the concrete & notch the bottom toe of the stringers to accept it or use hold downs inside the stringers, anchored to the slab.
That’s not a bad idea but I didn’t feel like it needed it on this project
Always a good idea. If you can cut stringers you can cut for a cleat. It's my house is no excuse. Practice what you preach
In this case it will be a good idea plus some blocking in between each stringer to have some strong post.
@@arjparke3124Bro shut up
@@arjparke3124it’s going to go anywhere what with the three toenails holding each stringer to the rim joist lol
I always entirely cover cut edges with a good building adhesive, to keep water out of the grain, it doubles the life of the stair stringers even if the wood is treated.
Not a bad idea at all
@@pueraeternum Anything to keep the moisture in the wood and have it dissipate slowly.
@@pueraeternum That would depend on what wood you're using. Most Douglas Fur is delivered or bought wet and when the end grain allows the moisture to escape. The boards develops splits on the ends. If you're looking at using a hardwood like oak and you're in an environment that has a lot of moisture like the beach , then yeah you have to seal all the board well.
@@pueraeternum I may have misunderstood you. If you're cutting stringers and you have end grain. It should be sealed with a good building adhesive. I would suggest a caulk tube of PL or subfloor adhesive.
@@pueraeternum Here in California Douglas Fur comes to us as wet as if it was just floated down the river.
Nice! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Why not set out from top to bottom, set a string line , so all treads can be exactly in line
String line would have been a great idea. Thanks for the tip :)
I thought you would start at the bottom. That way you can actually reach the ones on the top!
Haha yeah! Just wanted to make sure everything was squared up
Yeah, it can easily creep out of square working your way up. Nice. But such an American way of doing things. Interesting to see different ways.
🙆
@@bigballox6454 I think I'm picking up what you're putting down and as an American all I can say is "definitely a unique but probably an entirely deserved quip" sir.hahaha
There's a "post level" available that makes it a lot simpler.
It's 2 levels contained in one 90° frame so you get both directions at the same time.
except the part where they suck
Rookies use these
I love fixing these post. They never ever hold like that. Good for about 5 years.
Lag bolts for posts. What are you thinking? Easily adjustable and stays nice and tight for a long long time.
“Left over from a job”… loosely translates to “free” because my last customer bought them for me.
Hahaha…the other job was building my own deck lol so yeah…not what you assumed
And the problem is? When I price a job for material and labor. If there’s anything left. It’s the builders
I'll be sure to leave my scraps in my customer's back yard next time, I'm sure they'll appreciate that.
So if he bought exactly the right amount, cost would be lower, so who paid for them? Not the last customer unless you made a deck smaller than promised.
@@deadfisher0000 hell yeah.
screws and no glue, u did it perfect
But also good work don’t stop just keep learning!
Great video!
Thanks! 😊
Awesome job
Is not perfectly level is perfectly plumb level is horizontal plumb is vertical
Thank you for the correction. Im in the bad habit of using those terms interchangeably
Neat and well done. I think you meant plumb through when you were fitting the post.
Someone is going to pay again for that work within six months that first step is going to break right off
Maybe he shimmed the gap at bottom stringer
Yes, treat with pressure washer to ensure a good start to warp and moldville.
That Husqy in the back looking for some love
Wow ... amazing how so many master carpenters and professional tradesmen amassed on one video.
Amazing how many obvious issues are packed into one video. I wouldn't comment if it was 1 here or there I usually chalk minor discrepancies up to personal preference. The base of the stairs aren't anchored to the concrete and are in direct contact so you'll have wiggle and rot. The stringers seem to widely spaced for 5/4 board so you'll get sag possibly. Timber screws instead of threw bolts wont last. I have my way of doing things and if I posted a video I'd expect to be nit picked. Some people are more sensitive to constructive criticism than others
Master carpenters? Lol I think they are giving the guy criticism for a reason and from what I’ve read, they’re not wrong, it doesn’t take someone with 30 years behind the job to tell these things… quit complaining lol
Well, the criticisms are 100% valid. Posts should go inside the stair stringers so they can be blocked and fastened from perpendicular angles.
I got 40 years + in the trades, this ain’t how you anchor railings & absolutely not how to set wood on concrete, all 50 states require a moisture barrier & the posts have to take a minimum of 250 lateral load which no strapping will maintain, there’s a reason it’s called STANDARDS, you should be able to go anywhere & build anything & know it’s code by year 2, when I was a pup youngsters were hired to help speed a job, now y’all do anything but HELP,you millennials are just something else & it ain’t good, respect is EARNED, period
We here!
The post at the end of the steps. Shouldn't have a metal plate under them to keep them from Rotten Out
Why do 5 1/2” over hang ?
I build custom decks for a living I usually put my posts on the inside of last stringer . Trim sides of stringers and kick boards then overhand 1”. Your way is not wrong just wondered why people do it like this instead of the way I explained
The way you do it is perfectly good. The way I did it Is simply for aesthetics. I think it give it a bigger look. No one can step in that overhanging step tread because it will be under the handrail. I just like that style more for my house.
Looks like pretty good work. But you should have put that post in concrete With a Tension strap. Not a bad job all around though.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you :)
Your newel posts should have been anchored some other way - the railings have to withstand a 250lb lateral load by code and yours definitely will not
😂😂😂do it then
Absolutely 💯
There's always that one guy on TH-cam who has to bring others down to feel better about themselves. Congratulations on your accomplishment
@@Rlazalier are you not doing the same by commenting that ? Only difference is his was one the video he watched yours is on another man’s opinion that you went looking for and now crying that you found it
@Ryan Lazalier If he would tie all 3 stringers together with squash blocks and tie the post to them, it would pass code.
I definitely enjoyed this video and videos that are similar
I’m so glad you did! I appreciate the support :)
Double box the bottom first. A few bridge blocks every 4 steps and lined up where the mid point is for the 4x4.
The newel party is never going to be guaranteed straight and plumb, and as it dries it could change drastically. Good to see an honest review of the qualities of timber
Literally the exact way I do common stairs on decks....
A vertical post is not "leveled" level is a term describing horizontal configuration, vertical configuration is properly described as PLUMB...
Cool! I just learned something watching you. That 5 1/2” overhang is perfect for the handrails. Now do a video on the handrails you make for that.
I think the next video I make has the hand rails :) thank you, I appreciate the comment 😁😁
No, 5 1/2" looks bad. Move your stringers out 4 1/2", notch your 4x4.
The side overhang should be the same as the front
Nice one Brother thanks 😊
I would conkrit the 6 by 6 if it was my project. Looks pretty but will be very unstable. Support the frame of the stairs every 4ft.
I always drop the step treads down a step from the top of the deck. So the Handrails work out better. But that is just the wY I do it. Look good 👍
dang, that ain't going anywhere! LOL
You got that right!! :)
work in progress nice job man.😊
You did excellent work
Thank you! Cheers!
Those bottom post are gonna be awfully wobbly
stringers will rot quickly where it's 1/4" off the concrete. Learned that one the hard way years ago. And as others have said below, the newels at the bottom will be loose as sh*t but im sure you've already had to deal with that
It doesn’t matter what steps you build! You start at the bottom so you have something to stand on😅
Wait.... That's your house !! Sad to see the death of the craftsman... A Craftsman would have built something to be proud of on his home not a set of mobile home stairs...
Nice to see a young man with skills.
Hahaha...thank you. I'm 24 and just trying to build a house for my wife and daughter :)
Let me tell u it doesn't matter about dirty bds.the 1st posts isnt going to hold 6 months u think 6" screws going to hold the post wrong, there's no anchoring,these carpenters hit an run. !!!
@@MordecaitheBuilder please use risers. It makes your stairs so much stronger
I'm not a carpenter, I'm an electrician so i may be wrong. Aren't the stringers supposed to be anchored to the landing to prevent them from trying to slide foward?
Glad its your house bub.
Nice work
Beautiful
Thank you! Cheers!
Pre cut all treads and install then the stringers will be straight. Hey google Dupont Registry 2004 or 2005 i dont remember. Check out the cover, thats my 9 ton solid marble radius floating stairway.
Anytime you are putting stairs down to a cement pad/landing it’s so much easier, and better for the longevity of the stairs to ... put your rail posts IN the cement, not on it... lol. I don’t generally comment to critique but I just couldn’t help myself. I would have poured the pad once I had my stringers in place with the posts attached to the stringers and had them braced while the cement set up. Works a million times better.
I prefer closed stringers. Steps look good 👍
Like everything, he was right.
Ya do mean plumb right?
@@MordecaitheBuilder NO, you as a contractor (supposedly) should know what's what. That term should roll off your tongue when a level is vertical it's plum. When Horizontal it's level. See how easy that was. For not knowing, I would think twice about hiring you. Customers are educated and pick up on these things. But hey, it's your business. Happy New Year :)
Once your done cutting your stringers lay them and screw 2 or 3 2x4s on the back that will keep you tied in and in the right place
Great job thanks.
Stairs are the hardest to get the math right.
I've seen a lot of amateurs try it and the next day after the inspector gets there, throw it all in the dumpster.
flushing up the top step with the top of the deck is by far the easiest way to get started. Otherwise you have to measure down about 7 1/2 inchs and well it just gets very complicated. It's best to make a cardboard template and hold it up there and look at it.
Looks good but you should always use wood preservative on the cut stringers and the board end cuts or you’re kind of defeating the purpose of using treated wood.
Plus put a barrier between the lumber and the concrete.
I anchor the 6x6 post to the concrete with sampson plates.
They make a concrete anchoring system for a post base. You can add it when the concrete is wet or with anchors after it's cured. Wiggley handrail posts are a pet peeve of mine.
Bravo,majstore!
I couldn’t tell if you were pre-drilling or not I hope you were. Where is your ice and water shield on top of the treads? Without that they will rot faster
Fixed the newel post!
Love using leftovers 😎
Nice job!
Stait way to heaven
Buen trabajo
I see you did not check the cup of the boards.
Gonna be a creacky set. Liquid nails homie. Your new stair stringer best friend.
brilliant ginus amezing talented osem blasem i love it tank you for sharing your experience
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you 🙏
it's like a welders Tack welds but with stairs, wood,and screws.
plumb. block the stringers between the posts and run some all thread from post to post to lock it in.
This looked unbelievably hard
It wasn’t to bad. But I’ve done so many of them I can almost do it in my sleep 😴
❤❤❤
Should have used a bolt and washer for the post and why 5/12 inch overhang ?
Should have 4 or even 5 stringers for that width.
Yes
Where's my Rebar hand rail 😁Ouch
I always plant my bottom post in the ground
Those newel posts should be setting on some hardware and anchored into some concrete. Those stringers need to sit flat. I hope you use end cut solution because you didn’t tape the top of those stringers. They will rot.
I also make such stairs in wood, I love this work
Next time anchor the post in the concrete. Or envolve a post base embedded in the concrete.
Your posts will b wiggly🎉
No separation from concrete to beam great choice dude !
Treated lumbers made to go on concrete genius
Shoot man no wonder your charge extra to keep material lol
All good, but I always nail a 2x4 àlong the bottom edge of each stringer for added strength
I always do that on longer stringers
Glad I found you fella...makes me think I can do more as a woman when I watch your vids
So glad I was a bit of inspiration:)
Would’ve put a bracket with a few concrete anchors down for those posts for some added rigidity then some kind of metal flashing for a barrier between the wood and the concrete
Always give pressure treated wood at least one coat of copper green after cutting ready to use
Not a bad job with the stringers but I am definitely not a fan of using decking board for what should absolutely be 2x8-2x12 pressure treated for the steps. Full width plus overhang.
Should be 4 stringers
16 inch max
Wow expert's. I wish I had so many people advice me
Next time, instead of cutting the bottom rise shorter by the thickness of the treads, cut it the same height as the rest. Put your stringers against your deck and shim bottom until the stringer is higher than the deck by thickness of tread. Then use tread to scribe bottom of stringer to whatever it is sitting on. It allows the stringer to make full contact with whatever it is sitting on. Your welcome.
You're
@BryanL1982 but did you get what I meant?
If you don't want to knotch out the bottom of the stringers for a 2x4 cleat to be installed at least pressure block between your stringers at the bottom an pin them down to the concrete. Also use a abu66z for your 6x6 post base next time. Run 1/2 or 5/8 ths bolts thru the abu into your outside stringer. Everything is bolted an pinned to the concrete that way. But hey it's your house not mine or a customer's.
Codes are different in different areas of the country,this would be a rebuild here in the northeast😮
Bro there is a way to make that post a lot more stable gonna involve you putting it on the other side of the stringer and adding a few blocks though