Building code usual requires that a 4" ball must not fit between the stair treads in the riser. Typically the riser area should be closed out or have some blocking installed to prevent small children from getting caught in there. Lots of helpful building practices here. Thanks!
I am sure its been mentioned but the stringer hangers are meant to be used with specific nails, not screws and the ends of the screws should not penetrate through the entire stringer. The shorter nails are usually sold right next to the hangers. Many screws do not have the shear strength to work in that type of hangar unless specified by the hanger manufacturer.
@@Michael-dh1xr Not exactly, not typical coated exterior screws for decking can be used for the hangers. They have no shear strength. Look at the instructions for the hangers. They use a beefed up hex head screw designed for shear (thicker than decking screws) or short nails specifically for the application as nails are strong in shear but longer nails go through the header which you do not want to happen. Only the diagonally nailed holes use “typical” nails.
Brent, thank you so much for showing us how to cut the stringers the correct way. There is nothing more irritating than seeing a contractor cutting through the angles past the lines. It just makes the stringer more prone to breaking. Great video!!!!
Explained in a nice and clear way. I’ve just recently found your page but finding it very helpful for what I need to do in my garden. It goes quite fast but I can rewind and pause to double check.
I have been loving this retaining wall series you have. When you are making the stringers, I'd look into a track saw. You can get a really short piece of track. It doesn't seem like it but you can cut them even faster with more accuracy. You just use the splinter guard on the track to align your cut, set the saw down, plunge and cut. They make for ripping down sheet goods on the go really easy. You won't catch me moving sheets of 4'x'8 ply to the table saw anymore. I'll rough cut it first, then get my finish with the table saw. I find even those cuts get better when I am not working with a full sheet. Just a handy little tool if you don't already have one.
Thanks for taking the time to show your work. As with all building projects, people should check with their local building officials for local code requirements.
These are great steps. Our "contractor grade" deck that was slapped together with our house in 2007 is falling apart and so we're looking at doing a concrete pad instead of a wooden deck. The only issue is that the back door is approx. 36" above grade! So I'm going to have to have some kind of small "deck" to walk out on and some stairs to come down onto the new pad. This is one of the best DIY "How-To" stairs videos that I've found. Thanks, I look forward to figuring out my dilemma now.
Excellent videos for average, everyday homeowners such as myself! Even with your not so self-deprecating humor, they are still great videos! 😂😂 Just kidding….I love your self deprecating humor as well. Good job and thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge! Keep them coming! And BTW, if you ever have the opportunity, I would love to see a video or two from you on stuccoing/plastering and re-pointing bricks and/or stones using old world ingredients such as quicklime and/or hydrated lime…..I have an old home in Tennessee that I would like to use the correct materials while re-pointing 200+ year old bricks and stones and 200+ year old stucco and interior plaster, but finding easy to understand methods has been a challenge for me….especially in the form of U.S. videos.
Great vid, nice work, good tips. A suggestion about fasteners. I know you are sponsored, but with metal connecting plates, a flathead screw designed for this purpose provides more surface contact and a stronger connection. They cost more so I use them in the most critical areas like the stringer hangers.
Hello from across the pond, awesome demonstration, information and directions on this project there's no messing about really enjoyed watching your channel so keep up the hard work, all the best from the United Kingdom
Great video! Been so loving this series. Question, do you need a moisture barrier between the concrete and the pressure treated wood at the bottom and the top? Noticed you just added it to the top of the supports. I have heard there is a lot of moisture when wood touches concrete even when it’s pressure treated. Just curious if it would matter long term. Great job on this build!!!
Great to hear Joshua and thanks so much for the support. Good question and you can add a moisture barrier but I didn't because I have the concrete slanted so moisture won't be sticking around long term.
The wood itself is treated, so no moisture barrier is needed. The reason some people use a barrier/tape product on top is because they cut the material and they believe that will allow the water to penetrate the material. However, the wood is soaked in the treatment and then dried before it is sent to the stores.
Brent, thank you so much for the clear & pointed way to build stairs, step by step! You read like you've just stepped out of a romance novel though, with that voice Bro.😍 I tease, because you're great! 😂😂😂
Your stringers look like the perfect amount to me which leads me to believe there is not enough. It's been my experience when it comes to stringers if you think you have enough you're usually at least 1 short. 😂😂
Just wondering why you used the proper Galvanized nails to attach the stringer straps to the bulkhead, but then at 12:16, you used the wrong, non-galvanized screws to attach the stringer straps to the stringer? Not supposed to mix the galvanized with non-galvanized anchors.
The Diablo Trex blade is a wonderful blade for not only cutting composite but also cuts vinyl decking and leaves really smooth finish on the edges of the cut. Another thing we found is that it is the only circ saw blade that will cut vinyl or laminate flooring planks and not go dull. The saw teeth have a negative hook angle and that's what you want for cutting things that are tough on a blade. A circ saw wood blade will cut vinyl flooring plank but, by lunch time you're going to need a new blade. The shape of tooth and hook angle on a wood blade does not mix well with vinyl plank.
Fantastic video! Really informative and at a great pace for beginner DIY'rs....You showed some helpful tips at the appropriate intervals that will save people time and having to learn the hard way....in a way that isn't confusing or won't provoke overthinking it. 👍
You did a great job. I’ve been an inspector of every single form of construction for close to 126 years now in both Gotham City and Metropolis and I couldn’t find a single issue with anything you did. I sent your video to every single other inspector in the world and well as every single past, present, and future head of state and they all agreed that your work is flawless and should be the industry standard in every industry.
Great video!!! I've never pictured so vividly a plastic bag being placed over the heads of people with lisp's 😂 also thanks for showing how not to do stairs. Good try though I know you took a lot of "PRIDE" in this project. Although I don't think it really needed a super hero costume to build but, YOU GO GIRL! 😂
This staircase will have open riser backs. Is that OK in most jurisdictions? It looks like if you were to add riser backs now, you would be left with insufficient tread nosing overhang.
This couldn’t be more perfect timing. Looking to build stairs to the top of my concrete retaining wall. Any suggestions for attaching the riser brackets?
Agree with david. A ledger board that is attached to your concrete retaining wall would work great and just drill and use the appropriate concrete anchors. Then attached your brackets to the ledger board just like I attached mine.
It took my breath away when you used 3 pieces of scrap boards to finish the treads, Believe me, I totally understand wanting to use up all materials and get your money's worth, but after doing such great work and such a high level of attention to detail, I was blown away at that decision, Nonetheless, great work and thanks for sharing.
Yes, show us ALL THE PROJECTS! Your videos are great!!! I especially love showing my wife your intros! "Why hello there, Brent here with Bring Your Own Tools and on today's episode..." It's PHENOMENAL! BTW, are you going to be doing railing?
Since you went to the trouble to make a jig to lay out the cuts, why not use it as a guide to stabilize your saw so your cuts are more accurate? Kind of like a home-made, stringer specific, "speed square".
Wouldn’t the first step (riser) height be 4-1/4” (instead of 5-1/4”) to account for the tread thickness in addition to the 1-1/2” of the 2x4 base plate? Final first step height would then be 1-1/2” base plate height + 4-1/4” + 1” tread = 6-3/4” (if the concrete will be the finished floor surface, that is).
yes he only needed one 2x4 notched into the bottom of the stringer that sits on the concrete and then subtract you tread material thickness. then use a sleeve anchor to anchor the stringers to the concrete. he way over complicated the process here.
Pro Tip: Screw lag bolts into the bottom of the stringers where they contact the stringer support. 2 in each stringer, front and back. The bolts can be adjusted to level the stringers slightly plus most importantly the bolts help prevent rot by keeping the stringers from directly contacting the support base.
Not supposed to fill up all the holes on the underside of those straps - one or two only .The holes are there only because the strap is reversible. The fasteners on the side are carrying the load , use the proper strong tie nails or SD screws
Nice work, pretty solid with all those hanger brackets. I just don't like leaving the risers open so they are visible. You also didn't do yourself any favors by not cleaning and leveling the ground below theses stairs.
Nicely done! I was expecting to see you bust out the g tape again, rather than wood preservative, on stringers. Like you did for the deck. Was there a reason for that?
Good question and in all honesty I was thinking of doing so but the tape would be much for visible in this case, which is why I just used the wood preservative. Thanks for watching and the good question.
I know the fasteners were sponsored but you screwed your audience. (Pun intended) The brackets you installed require nails of the correct size or rated fasteners from Simpson Strongtie. There is more to this building stuff than “if the screw fits through the hole…”. In this load bearing solution the screw should be a sized to fill the hanger hole completely and rated for the use with special attention to the combo of shear strength, ductility and pull out resistance. And, you shouldn’t mix nails and screws in the same hanger. Now, some might ask, “but will it fail?” The answer, “maybe, maybe not.” Tough criticism since there’s also thoughts in comments about other errors that need correction. You did some things right but buried it in the middle of a bunch of not so good.
I legitimately use this channel to know how to NOT build things. This dude has gotta be the most Jerry rigged guy who has blind confidence in not knowing what he’s doing. My contractor friends and I LOVE watching him build things wrong
You are correct. By code, those screws cannot be used. Either nails or Simpson type fasteners only are allowed. This came from my building inspector. I had used those exact screws and when the inspection came, I had to change out all of those screws where ever I had used them on brackets
Nice job. The only possible problem that I see is that the bottom step should have been cut 1 inch shorter than the rest to allow for the thickness of the tread material. Unless you are adding an inch of material on the ground leading up to the stairs the first step is going to be 1 inch taller than the rest.
The video is quite helpful. Listening the the “th” at the end of the word “height” gives me heartburn. “Height” sounds like “right”, “light”, “might”, “flight”, “kite”, “spite”, “bite”, “smite”, “fright”, “tight”, “bright”, “light”, “trite”, “light”, “fight”, “slight”. Say it with me: Kite Light Bright Height Fright Right Spite Height Flight Tight Height Might Bite Height Bright Height Light Height Fight Height Height Height You did it! But seriously, it’s an outstanding tutorial. All of these instructions are very smart. The only one that I did that I liked better in this same process was to pour my pad first then measure for stair “height” and the run length. Well-done!
It's called a colloquial variant. There's length, breadth, width, and depth, and while no "heighth" you're really just splitting hairs. You'll survive.
@@Flakester I disagree. More a lack of self-awareness and respect for language. He’s genius-level at making a DIY video. Doesn’t mean he couldn’t keep more followers by avoiding a simple but notable pronunciation faux pas.
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | ( Bacon Time Vs FS )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lD6z1BugdZw/mqdefault.jpg)
Where are the RAILINGS ?
Here's that video. Thanks for asking: th-cam.com/video/8XkQGPa8cAU/w-d-xo.html
😊@@BYOTools
Your work is second to none may God continue to bless you and your family outstanding job
Good job 👍🏾. I just finished rebuilding steps for my customer.
World-Class narration of professional instruction with editing of equal caliber on topic of interest. Free.
Just, wow.
Building code usual requires that a 4" ball must not fit between the stair treads in the riser. Typically the riser area should be closed out or have some blocking installed to prevent small children from getting caught in there.
Lots of helpful building practices here. Thanks!
Sure, and I like to see the code complying handrail installed.
I am sure its been mentioned but the stringer hangers are meant to be used with specific nails, not screws and the ends of the screws should not penetrate through the entire stringer. The shorter nails are usually sold right next to the hangers. Many screws do not have the shear strength to work in that type of hangar unless specified by the hanger manufacturer.
COATED EXTERIOR HEX-HEAD SCREWS
O N L Y…..
@@Michael-dh1xr Not exactly, not typical coated exterior screws for decking can be used for the hangers. They have no shear strength. Look at the instructions for the hangers. They use a beefed up hex head screw designed for shear (thicker than decking screws) or short nails specifically for the application as nails are strong in shear but longer nails go through the header which you do not want to happen. Only the diagonally nailed holes use “typical” nails.
You just can’t leave us hanging like this, seriously spill the goods. I want to see the total project completion please.
Not trying to leave you hanging I promise :) just a LOT of information to get through but we are so CLOSE to being done :)
Brent, thank you so much for showing us how to cut the stringers the correct way. There is nothing more irritating than seeing a contractor cutting through the angles past the lines. It just makes the stringer more prone to breaking. Great video!!!!
Truly appreciate your support Mitch as always and I couldn't agree more with you. Its the little things that make a difference, right?!
Legend Larry Haun would tend to disagree. I watched an old video of him making stairs (How to Build Stairs). He uses a circular saw like a boss.
Not if you cover the over cuts with duct tape. I saw a video of someone doing that on here, so it has to be right.
This is not how you cut a stringer. The top stringer is wrong
.
@@BYOToolswtf at 02:05 the impact driver has no bit how is it screwing the screw in?
Explained in a nice and clear way. I’ve just recently found your page but finding it very helpful for what I need to do in my garden. It goes quite fast but I can rewind and pause to double check.
Very smart to utilize your leftover decking boards. Beautiful craftsmanship as always!!
Great to hear and thanks so much for watching Lisa. Truly appreciate the support.
This is really the best way! I’ve done it exactly like this for numerous stairs without problem.
Love your videos. As a homeowner you make it look so easy. Thanks for inspiring us to actually get things done.
OF COURSE WE WANNA KNOW WHAT YOU DO BETWEEN THE STEPS AND DECK!
LOVE the enthusiasm Patrick and thanks so much for watching.
Yup got the extra step
I have been loving this retaining wall series you have. When you are making the stringers, I'd look into a track saw. You can get a really short piece of track. It doesn't seem like it but you can cut them even faster with more accuracy. You just use the splinter guard on the track to align your cut, set the saw down, plunge and cut. They make for ripping down sheet goods on the go really easy. You won't catch me moving sheets of 4'x'8 ply to the table saw anymore. I'll rough cut it first, then get my finish with the table saw. I find even those cuts get better when I am not working with a full sheet. Just a handy little tool if you don't already have one.
😊
All that time and effort, very start that everything was based off of, the top on the retaining wall is JACKED
Thank you for your clarity in communicating each step (no pun intended) of the process so well.
Perfect example for my application, thanks!
Great job Sam and Angela !!!!! One step closer to inspector,
Thanks for taking the time to show your work. As with all building projects, people should check with their local building officials for local code requirements.
Figure it out -
Visiting the Building Dept will open a huge can of worms…. and fees…
That's some beautiful work and great tips. Where I live, anything over 30" requires railing. YMMV.
These are great steps. Our "contractor grade" deck that was slapped together with our house in 2007 is falling apart and so we're looking at doing a concrete pad instead of a wooden deck. The only issue is that the back door is approx. 36" above grade! So I'm going to have to have some kind of small "deck" to walk out on and some stairs to come down onto the new pad. This is one of the best DIY "How-To" stairs videos that I've found. Thanks, I look forward to figuring out my dilemma now.
Love your videos. Only criticism….HeighT not HeighTH.
Great info. Trex recommends 9" O.C. for stringers. No idea what other composite manufacturers recommend.
Wow, this was very informative. Thanks for sharing
Love your videos! Please show us what you decide to do between the wall and stairs. I’m sure it will be great!
Excellent videos for average, everyday homeowners such as myself! Even with your not so self-deprecating humor, they are still great videos! 😂😂 Just kidding….I love your self deprecating humor as well. Good job and thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge! Keep them coming!
And BTW, if you ever have the opportunity, I would love to see a video or two from you on stuccoing/plastering and re-pointing bricks and/or stones using old world ingredients such as quicklime and/or hydrated lime…..I have an old home in Tennessee that I would like to use the correct materials while re-pointing 200+ year old bricks and stones and 200+ year old stucco and interior plaster, but finding easy to understand methods has been a challenge for me….especially in the form of U.S. videos.
Another great and instructional video. Can't wait to see the drone footage when it's all complete.
What amazing job! I love it. Thank you fpr sharing It gave me a great idea how I can do mine.🫶🫶
Splendid work, thanks for sharing. I hope when your done with all the wood/composite work, you will show us how you are going to light the project.
Great vid, nice work, good tips. A suggestion about fasteners. I know you are sponsored, but with metal connecting plates, a flathead screw designed for this purpose provides more surface contact and a stronger connection. They cost more so I use them in the most critical areas like the stringer hangers.
In new Zealand we have to cover in the stair fronts. Would help to disguise the ugly brackets too. Screws look mint.
Interesting that you HAVE to cover them Lance. We still might do that but not final yet. Thanks so much for watching and your support.
Hello from across the pond, awesome demonstration, information and directions on this project there's no messing about really enjoyed watching your channel so keep up the hard work, all the best from the United Kingdom
Pretty much exactly how I would have built them. Nice job! Did you put any wood preservative between the wall and the stringers?
Great video! Been so loving this series. Question, do you need a moisture barrier between the concrete and the pressure treated wood at the bottom and the top? Noticed you just added it to the top of the supports. I have heard there is a lot of moisture when wood touches concrete even when it’s pressure treated. Just curious if it would matter long term. Great job on this build!!!
Great to hear Joshua and thanks so much for the support. Good question and you can add a moisture barrier but I didn't because I have the concrete slanted so moisture won't be sticking around long term.
The wood itself is treated, so no moisture barrier is needed. The reason some people use a barrier/tape product on top is because they cut the material and they believe that will allow the water to penetrate the material. However, the wood is soaked in the treatment and then dried before it is sent to the stores.
Brent, thank you so much for the clear & pointed way to build stairs, step by step! You read like you've just stepped out of a romance novel though, with that voice Bro.😍 I tease, because you're great! 😂😂😂
Dudes got that pressure treated money!!
Your stringers look like the perfect amount to me which leads me to believe there is not enough. It's been my experience when it comes to stringers if you think you have enough you're usually at least 1 short. 😂😂
GREAT VIDEO BYOTTHAT IMPACT DRIVER IS A TOUGH LITTLE BUGGER..GREETINGS FROM THE PHILIPPINES
Oh damn. I see a serious tripping hazard at the top step. But, at least they will get to the bottom quicker. 😬
It does look a little odd, to have a narrow top step.
height is pronounced 'hite'
Your attention to detail and quality of work always impressive!
Thanks so much for your love and support as always :)
Just wondering why you used the proper Galvanized nails to attach the stringer straps to the bulkhead, but then at 12:16, you used the wrong, non-galvanized screws to attach the stringer straps to the stringer? Not supposed to mix the galvanized with non-galvanized anchors.
The Diablo Trex blade is a wonderful blade for not only cutting composite but also cuts vinyl decking and leaves really smooth finish on the edges of the cut. Another thing we found is that it is the only circ saw blade that will cut vinyl or laminate flooring planks and not go dull. The saw teeth have a negative hook angle and that's what you want for cutting things that are tough on a blade. A circ saw wood blade will cut vinyl flooring plank but, by lunch time you're going to need a new blade. The shape of tooth and hook angle on a wood blade does not mix well with vinyl plank.
This was very helpful. please show a full video for the translon area between the deck and retaining
wall.
Fantastic video! Really informative and at a great pace for beginner DIY'rs....You showed some helpful tips at the appropriate intervals that will save people time and having to learn the hard way....in a way that isn't confusing or won't provoke overthinking it. 👍
I just found your channel the other day and I'm going on a binge watching all your recent stuff lol. Love the content
Nice looking set of stairs, just like the builder :)
You did a great job. I’ve been an inspector of every single form of construction for close to 126 years now in both Gotham City and Metropolis and I couldn’t find a single issue with anything you did. I sent your video to every single other inspector in the world and well as every single past, present, and future head of state and they all agreed that your work is flawless and should be the industry standard in every industry.
The base plate should be taped on both the top AND bottom. Even with PT lumber, it's really important to not have direct wood to concrete contact.
Exactly, it’s even more important under it since that’s going to stay wet longer than the top surface.
unless it’s treated to be in the ground.
Should the top step extend the landing?
Great video!!! I've never pictured so vividly a plastic bag being placed over the heads of people with lisp's 😂 also thanks for showing how not to do stairs. Good try though I know you took a lot of "PRIDE" in this project. Although I don't think it really needed a super hero costume to build but, YOU GO GIRL! 😂
I Love your videos. They are always entertaining and informative. Please show the completion to the deck. 🙏🏼
This staircase will have open riser backs. Is that OK in most jurisdictions? It looks like if you were to add riser backs now, you would be left with insufficient tread nosing overhang.
Brent ,now that you mentioned it I do want to see what you did to finish it all off. Don't blame me you brought it up.
It look very professional, I like it
Pretty cool . I enjoyed watching this video . Thx
This couldn’t be more perfect timing. Looking to build stairs to the top of my concrete retaining wall. Any suggestions for attaching the riser brackets?
Ledger board
Agree with david. A ledger board that is attached to your concrete retaining wall would work great and just drill and use the appropriate concrete anchors. Then attached your brackets to the ledger board just like I attached mine.
Nice job.... And pay no attention to the code police..... Thanks for the video and info..... very nice job... ❤❤
It took my breath away when you used 3 pieces of scrap boards to finish the treads, Believe me, I totally understand wanting to use up all materials and get your money's worth, but after doing such great work and such a high level of attention to detail, I was blown away at that decision,
Nonetheless, great work and thanks for sharing.
Mate this is amazing!!thankyou so much!!
Good video. Need a handrail with balusters as there is a greater than 30" rise from top to bottom of stairs (IBC).
HEIGHT as in HITE. Not heith. Love your work.
love the video! those are some cool knee pads ya got i bet you get alot of use outta them dont ya?
Brent you’re the best!!! Everything you do is amazing!
Nice detailed video. Your getting it done , thanks !❤️
After Turf Installation , I came here and subscribed
Thank you so much for the details!
Your stairs are really beautiful.
I’d recommend risers on the steps. Stops tripping on the way up.
Really great video.. very helpful.. your work quality is great😊😊
Nice job and video instructions! 👍
Keep the good times coming!
Yes, show us ALL THE PROJECTS! Your videos are great!!! I especially love showing my wife your intros! "Why hello there, Brent here with Bring Your Own Tools and on today's episode..."
It's PHENOMENAL!
BTW, are you going to be doing railing?
Thank you for this great new video!
great video. thanks.
It made my day that you used a reciprocating saw to finish out your cuts instead of a jigsaw; absolutely more efficient.
A hand saw also works, in fact a hand saw could be used for ALL cuts.
@@johndavidwolf4239 Indeed. How else were stairs made before power tools? :)
@@lamecatgames7214 : Stacking rocks upon each other, dates back many millennia.
@@lamecatgames7214 there wasn't such thing as a second floor until milwaukee revealed their Sawzall
@@imkaneforever 😂
With the steps I build I I always consider it worthwhile to install risers for each step.
Since you went to the trouble to make a jig to lay out the cuts, why not use it as a guide to stabilize your saw so your cuts are more accurate?
Kind of like a home-made, stringer specific, "speed square".
you might add, that when you drill the holes for the bolts in pressure treated wood, this also needs to be treated (IRC 402.1.2)
Wouldn’t the first step (riser) height be 4-1/4” (instead of 5-1/4”) to account for the tread thickness in addition to the 1-1/2” of the 2x4 base plate? Final first step height would then be 1-1/2” base plate height + 4-1/4” + 1” tread = 6-3/4” (if the concrete will be the finished floor surface, that is).
yes he only needed one 2x4 notched into the bottom of the stringer that sits on the concrete and then subtract you tread material thickness. then use a sleeve anchor to anchor the stringers to the concrete. he way over complicated the process here.
Very nice work and video, thanks
Heighth isn't a word. 😬
Nice mate, but the don't break the treads up into two boards. It will create issues in the future....full boards for treads.
Pro Tip: Screw lag bolts into the bottom of the stringers where they contact the stringer support. 2 in each stringer, front and back. The bolts can be adjusted to level the stringers slightly plus most importantly the bolts help prevent rot by keeping the stringers from directly contacting the support base.
Not supposed to fill up all the holes on the underside of those straps - one or two only .The holes are there only because the strap is reversible. The fasteners on the side are carrying the load , use the proper strong tie nails or SD screws
What? You weren't expecting people to parachute off the retaining wall?
But seriously, I am glad to see you in Atlas 46 gear. I love their stuff.
Great job! Thanks.
good luck if i ever need to build stairs ill check this back again.
Nice work, pretty solid with all those hanger brackets. I just don't like leaving the risers open so they are visible.
You also didn't do yourself any favors by not cleaning and leveling the ground below theses stairs.
Nicely done! I was expecting to see you bust out the g tape again, rather than wood preservative, on stringers. Like you did for the deck. Was there a reason for that?
Good question and in all honesty I was thinking of doing so but the tape would be much for visible in this case, which is why I just used the wood preservative. Thanks for watching and the good question.
@@BYOTools Good call! Thanks for answering
Legend m8 !!! Awesome work, really well explained ...cheers !!
I've always been scared of "heighths" 🤪
I know the fasteners were sponsored but you screwed your audience. (Pun intended) The brackets you installed require nails of the correct size or rated fasteners from Simpson Strongtie. There is more to this building stuff than “if the screw fits through the hole…”. In this load bearing solution the screw should be a sized to fill the hanger hole completely and rated for the use with special attention to the combo of shear strength, ductility and pull out resistance. And, you shouldn’t mix nails and screws in the same hanger. Now, some might ask, “but will it fail?” The answer, “maybe, maybe not.” Tough criticism since there’s also thoughts in comments about other errors that need correction. You did some things right but buried it in the middle of a bunch of not so good.
I legitimately use this channel to know how to NOT build things. This dude has gotta be the most Jerry rigged guy who has blind confidence in not knowing what he’s doing. My contractor friends and I LOVE watching him build things wrong
You are correct. By code, those screws cannot be used. Either nails or Simpson type fasteners only are allowed. This came from my building inspector. I had used those exact screws and when the inspection came, I had to change out all of those screws where ever I had used them on brackets
Looks great!
Thanks so much for watching as always Johnny.
Really good one! Thanks a lot!!
Grate video..simple and nice..
Good work mate.
Great Job Nicely Done 🪚🔨📐
Nice job. The only possible problem that I see is that the bottom step should have been cut 1 inch shorter than the rest to allow for the thickness of the tread material. Unless you are adding an inch of material on the ground leading up to the stairs the first step is going to be 1 inch taller than the rest.
Nice job!
The video is quite helpful. Listening the the “th” at the end of the word “height” gives me heartburn. “Height” sounds like “right”, “light”, “might”, “flight”, “kite”, “spite”, “bite”, “smite”, “fright”, “tight”, “bright”, “light”, “trite”, “light”, “fight”, “slight”.
Say it with me:
Kite
Light
Bright
Height
Fright
Right
Spite
Height
Flight
Tight
Height
Might
Bite
Height
Bright
Height
Light
Height
Fight
Height
Height
Height
You did it!
But seriously, it’s an outstanding tutorial. All of these instructions are very smart. The only one that I did that I liked better in this same process was to pour my pad first then measure for stair “height” and the run length.
Well-done!
It's called a colloquial variant. There's length, breadth, width, and depth, and while no "heighth" you're really just splitting hairs.
You'll survive.
@@Flakester I disagree. More a lack of self-awareness and respect for language. He’s genius-level at making a DIY video. Doesn’t mean he couldn’t keep more followers by avoiding a simple but notable pronunciation faux pas.