Im a carpenter of 40 years. I watch videos like this to sometimes get another perspective on things. And sometimes remind me of something I forgot. You did a fine job. Thanks
I'm a retired carpenter and I use a framing square and a set of "dogs", no time to build a "template", but I can see how this would help a non-carpenter.
I'm a retired framing carpenter. I was full time for 34 years and have cut hundreds of stairs in. This is a fine idea. It's much easier and more accurate than just a framing square, buttons or not.Sliding that board along instead of adjusting the framing square, riding squarely on a wide area instead of buttons slipping over the rounded edge or catching in divots, it's perfectly fine. Good job!
i have to say a framing square with buttons is quicker easier and more accurate.. someone who uses this method is likely a home owner or beginner, their cutting and line placement likely isnt perfect yet, if theyre off by even an eight on the cuts thatll add up for each step.. a 12 stair run and theyll be out an inch and a half its far easier to get buttons accurate on a square.. and if you dont have buttons and just place the square with marks on your measurements atleast if you place it off an 1/8" youre only changing one step the 1/8" youre not gonna place every stair an eight short in the same direction
I've been a carpenter for 20-plus years and we were always taught to work smarter not harder and this kid's idea seems pretty smart to me. Great job buddy, I like your idea 👍
I’m a retired builder and wish I had known this sliding jig method 40 years ago! I’m sure my Framing Square would have spent more time in the truck! You can teach an old framer new tricks!😊 Great lesson young man!
Wow!!! I will be 69 years young on my next birthday. I could learn soooo much from a good young teacher like you! I will save this video and use your very good instructions on a couple of upcoming projects. Thank you for posting this video!
That is so much easier to do than any of the other 20 stringer videos I've watched. I am a novice at this and find this to be the best one yet. Thank you for such an easy way to do it!
I’m a missionary in Ghana from the U.S. I had a project here to put A concrete stairway up 11’. I checked out TH-cam for a video showing an easier way than a framing square. Yours was my third video and I looked no further. Today I cut my streamers and will finish my forms tomorrow. Easypezy!
I'm a 67 yr old woman and appreciate this video so much. Plan to make wooden steps for my seasonal camper and need to cut my own stringers since premade have too tall of a rise for my situation. Thank you!
Mark, I wouldn't pay attention to the people who don't like your videos! There's more of us who do appreciate what you're doing. Please keep your videos coming, your very much appreciated. Thank you.
that is a very stupid thing to say. First off, who is actually not liking his videos? Why are you changing, them criticizing his techniques, to not liking the videos? The people who don't pay attention to others and what they say, are the ones who will not get better. Rose colored glasses don't tell you the truth.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 I agree. There was no disclaimer in the video about other people's opinions not mattering. And sharing opinions does not equate to disliking.
I've been using this method for just a little over 40 years. Shared it with dozens, but this is the first time I've ever seen it presented by someone else, bravo! Here are a few small differences; 1) I typically cut the guide block slightly short of the triangle corners so that I can get into tight places, 2) for extreme accuracy, I'll hold a tape measure against the riser leg of the guide as I mark the "pattern", 3) save the guide block for later use when laying out the newel posts, pickets, trim stringers, and etc,
Good job bro . People make this seem like it’s some kind of rocket science lol . Ridiculously easy . I’m tackling my first stringers tomorrow . Thanks buddy .
The jig is a nice idea. They make little clamps for framing squares to hold it where needed, but if you misplace them like I did years ago, then they.they don’t work so well. Only thing I would add is if your ground isn’t perfectly level, I’d cut the bottoms long, and scribe each of the stringers to the ground.
Yes those things are helpful on the square. Yes that could be done on ground that is not level. Mine was pretty close to level so I was able to make it level pretty easily.
Well just don't lose them. Beside they are getting so cheap nowadays that you can keep an extra set. Or as I do, I keep one of my MANY squares with the permanently on it.
Nice twist on an old idea. As far as scribing the stringer, we always put something flat under the stringer, brick, block, paver, anything level, ground tamped so it won’t settle. I for one, love seeing young guys in the trades. So many won’t work, want to play video games for a living, etc. The few that want to work, really impress me with their skills. Today, a person with skills can watch a video done by a professional, imitating what they did and it’s like being in an advanced apprentice program, fast forward! Here’s the bottom line, “are the rise and runs to code, are they cut straight, are the stringers level and supported. If all of those are done and you have a nice looking, finished product, who cares how you get there if you and/or the customer is safe and happy”. Some people need to lighten up, lol
Thanks so much for this help ! I am building a staircase into our new tree hut. 11 feet to the floor, so I need 16 steps. Your pattern makes this so easy, and I checked the steps before I start cutting, they are almost prefect level, just a tiny pitch for the water to drain................LOVE IT
Retired construction inspector; we used to call them stair riser templates old days but as time went on got set of stair angle gauges that fit on steel square and slide back and forth to set very accurate angles after you got the total rise and run measurement. Great job explaining for the newbe carpenters .
Sir, I'm building steps for my deck now and I have looked at wayyyy to many videos on how to build steps! I was as confused as i could be UNTIL I LOOKED AT YOURRSSSS! wow, I think I have it now! Cant wait to get home and try this!
Yep Sir you dumbed it down for sure and don’t tell anyone, but I’m a math teacher and I needed a special ed teacher for this one…my goodness! No one started at the beginning! I just didn’t know how to get started from the first cut.
that's awsome I'm a old sheet rocker 33 years of hanging and another old sheet rocker showed me a similar trick like that years ago that I use to this day for cutting and notching my board around stairs when need be and I even used it on a round wall one time at the bottom of the stairs worked great big time saver !!!
I noticed in the comments, several people are criticizing this simple and easy method for the Do It Yourselfers. If you critics are such experts, why are YOU watching a DIY channel on how to cut stringers? Amateurs built the ark, experts built the titanic!
The expert keeps up with his/her knowledge base by hiring someone else in the trade, watching videos, reading, expo's, etc. 'coz time is money. (Seeing a new thing even in an advert could change your world)
Mark Willie the negative comments arent from people watching so they learn how to do it, theyre watching to find fault, so they have something to criticise! In regard to the ark and titanic, the build quality of the titanic wasnt the reason it sank. It was weakened metal caused by an undiscovered fire amongst the coal, which caused a side plate to split open when it glanced a side impact on the iceberg. If the story of the ark is true, it took Noah 120 years to build it so it should have been good!
Thank you for the video. It is very helpful as I'm starting on my stairs today. I do have a question. At the marking segment of the video (4:00), You started the initial marking without any measuring. How do you know how far to start down the board to began marking the stringer? The part that would be the top of the stringer or stairs. Hopefully my question makes sense. Thank you!
It doesn't matter, use the cleanest part of the 2x6. He screwed up that part of the explanation. The top end of the stringer ends with a run not a rise. That first rise mark he made gets cut all way the way thru the board at that angle.
I've been a carpenter for 25 years, and I'm always looking for ways to do something better and faster!!! I like this way, especially for people who are new at carpentry!!!! Time is money and in this situation it is 100% faster then the standard!
I have to say, the very first thing you need to do is level the landing at the bottom of the stairs. This makes your stringer measurement very accurate.
Yes, spot on since a vertical measurement right at the top of the landing doesn't account for a different rise measurement on the grade, however many feet out from the TOL. If your grade slopes away from the building and you need to maintain it for drainage, you'd need an overall height measurement from a level line from the top of the landing taken where the run of the stair lands at the bottom at grade.
I am a carpenter by trade , and have to say this is a great idea ,one I never thought of , but just watched and actually like better than the method I normally use (framing square with stringer nuts ) , I also believe this would be more accurate and efficient simply because you can gain a sixteenth here and there if your not paying attention when using a framing square . The other variable is the lumber he is using , its full of water , and will shrink . So if you use the same type of lumber , treated that is , dont cut your stringers one day , then install them the next day , you wont like the results . I have made that mistake and it can get expensive with todays lumber costs .
Excellent explanation to avoid the common first step mistake. Rather than building the jig you can use an L shaped square. Painters tape or clamps at 10 and 7 inches marks on each leg. Fast, accurate and reusable.
Not a bad idea. I usually build my runners 11" so that two 2x6's work out right. Stairs used to scare me when I was first starting to do carpenter work but once you figure them out, you realize they're a cake walk as long as the odd step ends up on the bottom. Short top steps are very dangerous.
I've came in behind framers and ripped out several sets of steps Cause they didn't look at the prints to see what was going on top of the sub flooring 👍
What a great idea, I was a carpenter for twenty years - framing and outside trimming- And I found your way as easy piecy. Framing square is fine. But your way I really like S.A. Tx.
I just use the stair buttons (what I call them) and clamp them on my framing square. Steps aren't always the same depending on the height of the rise. If you build a lot of stair stringers and don't want a couple dozen jigs to cart around then buy a set of stair buttons.
I believe that if you watch the vid again the first step is to make your jig using part of the wood you are making the stringer out of. As each set of stairs is unique to its application the past jigs you used before are not the one you want now. That is why you make a new one for each job unless you are doing new construction where hopefully everything is mostly the same thing. Not any different than changing the stair buttons on your framing square, probably about the same speed once you get use to using the method without having to keep track or look for the buttons.
This is pretty simple, but most stairs are not quite so easy if you get into interior stairs. The math gets more complicated when you have a limited space for your run. Six to eight inches is always what I tried to get when figuring rise. Eight inches is a fairly steep set of stairs. Stairs and rafters were the hardest for a newbie to figure out and then cut.
Good cheat is rise plus run should be as close to 18 as possible.. No less than 17 and no greater than 19 which would result in unnatural/uncomfortable strides and potential trip hazards.
Well you should do a video on a easy way to figure how to put stairs in where you don't have room like putting in landings, spiral stairs. And so forth
Hi Eric. When you put the jig on the first stringer, the riser edge of the jig was pulled down, away from the end of the stringer. How far was that and why? Thank you. 😁
Journeyman carpenter 20 years.i love this method.the last time i used a framing square and gauges for stairs was when i was a second year.i was lucky to work for a great old school roofer.
One problem, you measured from your door threshold to the ground at the foundation. Stairs obviously extend away from the fountain, and hopefully there's some slope to take water away from the building. You'd be better off measuring out to the end of where the stingers will set, finding a level line from the threshold, and measuring down from there.
Just a simple diy guy here. Great explanation. I just can’t wrap my head around how the position of the very first mark on the 2x12 was determined. It’s up a few inches from the end not flush. What did I miss? How far from that end is that first mark? Is it at 7” like the rest of the risers, 7 minus tread thickness, or something totally different? The answer is probably in there I just can’t find it.
And im in agreement as well. 1st time seeing this and love the idea of making a jig, but I didn't see the starting point on the 2×12 when u started making ur lines. ..I probably missed something and the answer is in here somewhere, I just didn't see it or figure it out! Thx to u for doing this video, my amateur ass will take all the help I can get!
Good job. I'm a finish carpenter for 35 years and now and then I need to help someone with stairs and all of a sudden I have to rember as I don't do it very often. Good job
Excellent video definitely takes a lot of the fear out of building some steps. One question I had was he mentioned the run was 10” but how did you come up with that number?
Usually the run for a step is determined by multiplying the riser height by 2 and then subtract that total from the #25 or #24. Each step should have a 1" overhang (nose) extending past the riser.
Thank you for sharing. What sounds like a family secret. If you came up with that yourself, you started the family secret I think God for you young man and I pray that he will continue to bless you with work that you can use your skills to provide for your family and glorify him. Thanks again big help.
This is a great trick. I build a lot of decks each year and this will save time and money. I build free standing decks like a champ but I always struggle with the step rail. I always get the damn thing just a little off and my spindles end up longer on one end than the other. Always looking to learn. Any input is much appreciated.
Another good tip for cutting stringers is stacking them and cutting 2 at once so they're exactly the same with no chance of error. Set your saw depth as far as it will go and run the saw slow for the added thickness. This will score through the bottom board and give you a perfect template of the top board.
Hi Mark how do you come up with 10" for the run? Is that just standard for all stairs? Thank you for this video. I've always felt this was too hard and this makes it super accessible!!!
No the 10 can be whatever you want if you have the room. The bigger the number the further from the landing it will be. I like 10 cause it gives plenty of room to step onto.
The riser plus the tread measurement should be as close to 18” as possible for a comfortable stride up or down the steps. Anything less than 17” or more than 19” will be difficult and dangerous to use for kids, elderly, or anyone with physical limitations. To pass inspection they need to fall in this range as well. That’s why you might notice some steps with short risers will have much wider treads. Good luck with your future projects!
For an unlimited run, multiply the riser height by two. 2x7=14. Subtract 14 from 25 which = 11. The simple formula to determine the safest rise and run for each step is two times the rise plus the run to equal 25. To determine the number of steps, always divide the height by 7. 42 / 7 = 6 steps. The rise is always determined first. Hope this is helpful.
AWESOME jig , this is great! im stealing the idea haha. Quick tip you should add to the next installment down the road , is to prep the ground where your stringers will sit! measuring from the door , right to the ground works if the ground is perfectly level, some folks forget to make sure the landing pad is at the same elevation , and finding where to put the landing pad is all wrapped up in the math you just displayed, but your looking at the run, and the amount of steps to determine that distance. I had little to no experience with stairs and this was the challenge I had to deal with when I built my first 2nd story set. I got it first try thank god because lumber was outrageously expensive at that time haha . awesome video sir
This is useful to someone who likes to use jigs, Using your framing square, you could have all your stringers laid out and cut in the time it takes you to build this jig.
If you stack your first stringer you cut on top of a 2nd board when you cut through it will mark your 2nd stringer for you and so on,another time saver and it is very accurate
From a 44 year carpenter, good job but here is a pro tip for you. When measuring down to the ground, you should level out to the point where the stringers will contact the ground and take the measurement there. This takes into account the grade of the ground. It's not so necessary when building onto a flat surface but I do it anyway in case a 30 year carpenter built the flat surface.
In Michigan, it's code to have a minimum of a 3 ft landing in front of any access door. It's very awkward to use stairs in this configuration. I appreciate your ingenuity, however, an inexpensive set of stair nuts to secure to your framing square really is a better option, in my opinion, having built over 50 sets of stairs, indoors and out. Keep up your learning. Thanks for posting.
I am a production and custom stair builder of 37 years. This idea is cute but a framing square with stair guides are the only way to layout a stair stringer. I would then trace my stringer out of plywood for a template to be accurate in over all length. If you used a cutoff piece like this guy is using your stringers would more than likely be a little different in overall length.
Im about to build a small deck with stairs for my granddaughters mobile home and this Video helps me more than you can imagine. Thank you very much.@@projectdiy873
You should mention that as a rule of thumb the (rise inches + run inches) should add up to 17 or 17 1/2 inches just like your example. Also, many times exterior stairs are limited to 6 inches rise for safety.
Agree. Especially when you gotta think. Background loops adds another thing the brain has to analyze again and again each nanosecond for threat, purpose, usefulness, how to store (long/short), etc., etc., etc. Background music/noise is tiresome, repetitive, annoying and unwelcome at best. Usually, aggravating.
Really appreciate the simplicity! You did a great job of dummying down so us amateurs could understand. I do have one question: You made two cuts at the top of the stringer. Not sure how you determined size/angles to cut. I’m sure it’s simple, but wasn’t sure how to determine. Appreciate all the help,
As a professional carpenter and stair builder, the wood template is only going to be as accurate as your saw cuts and assembly. Any error is going to be transfered to the stringer and multiplied by the number of steps (typically 13.) There's a reason why we typically use a framing square and stair gauges. Your stair-hack is nothing but an old carpenter trick and one who didn't happen to have the right tools on hand. There's also a difference between rough, framing carpenters and finish carpenters. A rough carpenter would have no problem with such a template, whereas a finish carpenter might have some reservations.
When you've got to have a lot of exact duplicates, it's best to come up with a jig or template. I'm an architect and I can tell you when we draw stairs we don't draw each line individually, one after another. We draw a single tread / riser and copy it toe-to-toe.
Great idea. I once used a square to do the lay out, what I didn't realize was the square measure marks from one side to the other didn't match, so my 'perfectly measured' treads were wonky, till I figured out the problem with my square. I am about to embark on another set of stairs. This will help me out, thanks.
Started carpentry work when I was 16, I'm now 70. When you were marking out the tread and risers, it reminded me of one of my first days on the job. I was squaring up some 2x4's with my newly acquired speed square, and the foreman asked me, if I was going to mark them through, or cut them.
I learned in carpentry school to use a rafter/framing square. If you know how to use one properly, you can create stringers at any pitch of stairs. I learned how to determine the tread and riser length depending on the pitch. Nowadays everyone is looking for a shortcut.
I really enjoyed your video and I understand how to make the jig but when you drew the lines at the bottom and tried to explain about the rest I was at a loss of where to cut and felt it wasn’t clear what to do from that point. I’m not trying to criticize only wish you had explained better for those of us who have to build stairs but haven’t done it. Thanks, Dan.
I am a retired carpenter, Use a framing square and stair gauge clamps. You have a good idea, but a framing square has many functions. A lot of the old ways are forgotten or neglected. I see houses trimmed now, and the inside corners are mitered. Cope your corners, and keep the right ( I mean ) old ways. I was taught to trim with a homemade miter box.
One thing I love about carpentry is theres always something learn. Always a slick trick you can learn from another guy, and choose to adopt it or not. Next time I have to do stairs Im gonna give this one a shot, see if I like it.
Exactly ! I remember years ago I had a way to layout and cut a radius UNTIL , I worked with another carpenter who I watched layout his radius , then cut it . Faster , then the way I did mine . I am retired now , but was always open to learn especially when someone had a better mousetrap .
You showed us probably the easiest way to lay out stringers I've seen. A lot easier than using a carpenter square and trying to hit the same marks each time. Also good to point out using the first one as the pattern for any other stringers you have to make. Thanks.
Very cool man thanks!! I like it that the stops on the square can't slide. I have screwed up stringers before by using a square with a framing square and the stops moved. Have steps on a deck this week I'll try your jig idea!!! Thanks brother!!!
Im a carpenter of 40 years. I watch videos like this to sometimes get another perspective on things. And sometimes remind me of something I forgot. You did a fine job. Thanks
Thanks
Me too... you said it exactly
Funny, because from your profile picture you don't look a day over 21
40 years , and you use a template ?????
I'm a retired carpenter and I use a framing square and a set of "dogs", no time to build a "template", but I can see how this would help a non-carpenter.
I'm a retired framing carpenter. I was full time for 34 years and have cut hundreds of stairs in.
This is a fine idea. It's much easier and more accurate than just a framing square, buttons or not.Sliding that board along instead of adjusting the framing square, riding squarely on a wide area instead of buttons slipping over the rounded edge or catching in divots, it's perfectly fine. Good job!
Thanks hope it helps
Nothing is more accurate than a finely made framing square Mr..
i have to say a framing square with buttons is quicker easier and more accurate.. someone who uses this method is likely a home owner or beginner, their cutting and line placement likely isnt perfect yet, if theyre off by even an eight on the cuts thatll add up for each step.. a 12 stair run and theyll be out an inch and a half
its far easier to get buttons accurate on a square.. and if you dont have buttons and just place the square with marks on your measurements atleast if you place it off an 1/8" youre only changing one step the 1/8" youre not gonna place every stair an eight short in the same direction
Totally agree👍
I've been a carpenter never and I feel like this is a joke! Why wouldn't you just buy them already cut at Lowes. How stubborn we can be!
I've been a carpenter for 20-plus years and we were always taught to work smarter not harder and this kid's idea seems pretty smart to me. Great job buddy, I like your idea 👍
Thanks hope it was a help
I’m a retired builder and wish I had known this sliding jig method 40 years ago! I’m sure my Framing Square would have spent more time in the truck! You can teach an old framer new tricks!😊 Great lesson young man!
Thanks
🤣🤣🤣 You expect anybody to believe that?
People are always stealing my square so who needs one?
Well said mate 👍
Wow!!! I will be 69 years young on my next birthday. I could learn soooo much from a good young teacher like you! I will save this video and use your very good instructions on a couple of upcoming projects. Thank you for posting this video!
Glad to hear you liked. Hope it helps out on tour next project. Thanks for watching!!
That is so much easier to do than any of the other 20 stringer videos I've watched. I am a novice at this and find this to be the best one yet. Thank you for such an easy way to do it!
@mp-sj4fz Glad to hear! Hope it helps and thanks for watching!!
I’m a missionary in Ghana from the U.S. I had a project here to put A concrete stairway up 11’. I checked out TH-cam for a video showing an easier way than a framing square. Yours was my third video and I looked no further. Today I cut my streamers and will finish my forms tomorrow. Easypezy!
Well I am glad it was a help. Especially to a missionary.
I'm a 67 yr old woman and appreciate this video so much. Plan to make wooden steps for my seasonal camper and need to cut my own stringers since premade have too tall of a rise for my situation. Thank you!
@karenk469 thanks for watching and good luck with your stringers!
Mark, I wouldn't pay attention to the people who don't like your videos! There's more of us who do appreciate what you're doing. Please keep your videos coming, your very much appreciated. Thank you.
that is a very stupid thing to say. First off, who is actually not liking his videos? Why are you changing, them criticizing his techniques, to not liking the videos? The people who don't pay attention to others and what they say, are the ones who will not get better. Rose colored glasses don't tell you the truth.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 I agree. There was no disclaimer in the video about other people's opinions not mattering. And sharing opinions does not equate to disliking.
@@6XXBANSHEEXX8 yup
Good job. Im a carpenter of 33yrs. You did a fine job. Keep up the good work. Its your job to bring up the next generation 😁
I've been using this method for just a little over 40 years. Shared it with dozens, but this is the first time I've ever seen it presented by someone else, bravo! Here are a few small differences; 1) I typically cut the guide block slightly short of the triangle corners so that I can get into tight places, 2) for extreme accuracy, I'll hold a tape measure against the riser leg of the guide as I mark the "pattern", 3) save the guide block for later use when laying out the newel posts, pickets, trim stringers, and etc,
Thanks for the tips especially for a first timer and old timer like myself 👍 8:02
For accuracy, I never use a tape measure.
This was very well explained. You anticipated and addressed every question I had. Many thanks.
Glad it was of help
Good job bro . People make this seem like it’s some kind of rocket science lol . Ridiculously easy . I’m tackling my first stringers tomorrow . Thanks buddy .
Yes sir hope it helps and thanks for watching!!
@joshwhitney7463 just remember you CANT BE OFF BY EVEN AN 1/8.if u got your numbers right you'll be fine.
if you have a sloped ground, be sure to check height at the point where the bottom step will land
excellent ! Makes a confusing and potentially dangerous job a piece of cake…Carry on and know that your work is greatly appreciated!
Thanks glad it was of help
The jig is a nice idea. They make little clamps for framing squares to hold it where needed, but if you misplace them like I did years ago, then they.they don’t work so well. Only thing I would add is if your ground isn’t perfectly level, I’d cut the bottoms long, and scribe each of the stringers to the ground.
Yes those things are helpful on the square. Yes that could be done on ground that is not level. Mine was pretty close to level so I was able to make it level pretty easily.
Yep, they’re called stair gauges.
Well just don't lose them. Beside they are getting so cheap nowadays that you can keep an extra set. Or as I do, I keep one of my MANY squares with the permanently on it.
Unless it's a side hill, level the ground somewhat ? . Throw a couple patio stones ?
Nice twist on an old idea. As far as scribing the stringer, we always put something flat under the stringer, brick, block, paver, anything level, ground tamped so it won’t settle. I for one, love seeing young guys in the trades. So many won’t work, want to play video games for a living, etc. The few that want to work, really impress me with their skills. Today, a person with skills can watch a video done by a professional, imitating what they did and it’s like being in an advanced apprentice program, fast forward! Here’s the bottom line, “are the rise and runs to code, are they cut straight, are the stringers level and supported. If all of those are done and you have a nice looking, finished product, who cares how you get there if you and/or the customer is safe and happy”. Some people need to lighten up, lol
Nice way to inform people of a grate way to step it up
Thanks so much for this help ! I am building a staircase into our new tree hut. 11 feet to the floor, so I need 16 steps. Your pattern makes this so easy, and I checked the steps before I start cutting, they are almost prefect level, just a tiny pitch for the water to drain................LOVE IT
Sweet glad it helped out
Retired construction inspector; we used to call them stair riser templates old days but as time went on got set of stair angle gauges that fit on steel square and slide back and forth to set very accurate angles after you got the total rise and run measurement. Great job explaining for the newbe carpenters .
Sir, I'm building steps for my deck now and I have looked at wayyyy to many videos on how to build steps! I was as confused as i could be UNTIL I LOOKED AT YOURRSSSS! wow, I think I have it now! Cant wait to get home and try this!
I am glad it was of help.
Yep Sir you dumbed it down for sure and don’t tell anyone, but I’m a math teacher and I needed a special ed teacher for this one…my goodness! No one started at the beginning! I just didn’t know how to get started from the first cut.
@@KymTube yes sir KISS is the simplest method. Glad it helped
Muy buena idea y muy práctico. Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. 👍👍
that's awsome I'm a old sheet rocker 33 years of hanging and another old sheet rocker showed me a similar trick like that years ago that I use to this day for cutting and notching my board around stairs when need be and I even used it on a round wall one time at the bottom of the stairs worked great big time saver !!!
I noticed in the comments, several people are criticizing this simple and easy method for the Do It Yourselfers. If you critics are such experts, why are YOU watching a DIY channel on how to cut stringers? Amateurs built the ark, experts built the titanic!
Well said
The expert keeps up with his/her knowledge base by hiring someone else in the trade, watching videos, reading, expo's, etc. 'coz time is money. (Seeing a new thing even in an advert could change your world)
Your comment put a big smile on my face!!🤣
Good point... right on the money.
Mark Willie the negative comments arent from people watching so they learn how to do it, theyre watching to find fault, so they have something to criticise!
In regard to the ark and titanic, the build quality of the titanic wasnt the reason it sank. It was weakened metal caused by an undiscovered fire amongst the coal, which caused a side plate to split open when it glanced a side impact on the iceberg. If the story of the ark is true, it took Noah 120 years to build it so it should have been good!
Like the fact you use the simplest of methods, no fancy tools.👍😊
Thank you for the video. It is very helpful as I'm starting on my stairs today. I do have a question. At the marking segment of the video (4:00), You started the initial marking without any measuring. How do you know how far to start down the board to began marking the stringer? The part that would be the top of the stringer or stairs. Hopefully my question makes sense. Thank you!
I had the same question 🤔
It doesn't matter, use the cleanest part of the 2x6. He screwed up that part of the explanation. The top end of the stringer ends with a run not a rise. That first rise mark he made gets cut all way the way thru the board at that angle.
Nice to see old school pro moves alive and well.
I've been a carpenter for 25 years, and I'm always looking for ways to do something better and faster!!! I like this way, especially for people who are new at carpentry!!!!
Time is money and in this situation it is 100% faster then the standard!
I have to say, the very first thing you need to do is level the landing at the bottom of the stairs. This makes your stringer measurement very accurate.
Yes, spot on since a vertical measurement right at the top of the landing doesn't account for a different rise measurement on the grade, however many feet out from the TOL. If your grade slopes away from the building and you need to maintain it for drainage, you'd need an overall height measurement from a level line from the top of the landing taken where the run of the stair lands at the bottom at grade.
I've lived on the KISS method.
Keeping it simple stupid and stupid simple it is. Great job!
This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing!
No prob hope it helps
I just finished my first set of 6 step stair risers following your instructions and they turned out great. Thank you very much.
@@ragingpatriot772 glad it helped and thanks for watching
I am a carpenter by trade , and have to say this is a great idea ,one I never thought of , but just watched and actually like better than the method I normally use (framing square with stringer nuts ) , I also believe this would be more accurate and efficient simply because you can gain a sixteenth here and there if your not paying attention when using a framing square . The other variable is the lumber he is using , its full of water , and will shrink . So if you use the same type of lumber , treated that is , dont cut your stringers one day , then install them the next day , you wont like the results . I have made that mistake and it can get expensive with todays lumber costs .
Thank you👌
Thank you for sharing... You are a good teacher.. Warmest regards
Thanks for watching and hope it helps
Excellent explanation to avoid the common first step mistake. Rather than building the jig you can use an L shaped square. Painters tape or clamps at 10 and 7 inches marks on each leg. Fast, accurate and reusable.
I love my squi-jig for this
I saved your video. I'm currently building some stairs, and I really like the jig. I appreciate your video. Thank you.
No problem hope it helps out
Not a bad idea. I usually build my runners 11" so that two 2x6's work out right. Stairs used to scare me when I was first starting to do carpenter work but once you figure them out, you realize they're a cake walk as long as the odd step ends up on the bottom. Short top steps are very dangerous.
I've came in behind framers and ripped out several sets of steps Cause they didn't look at the prints to see what was going on top of the sub flooring 👍
What a great idea, I was a carpenter for twenty years
- framing and outside trimming-
And I found your way as easy piecy. Framing square is fine.
But your way I really like
S.A. Tx.
I just use the stair buttons (what I call them) and clamp them on my framing square. Steps aren't always the same depending on the height of the rise. If you build a lot of stair stringers and don't want a couple dozen jigs to cart around then buy a set of stair buttons.
Been using that method for 20+ YEARS. Tried and true. Rise and run. I can appreciate another method but I'll stick with what I know.
I believe that if you watch the vid again the first step is to make your jig using part of the wood you are making the stringer out of. As each set of stairs is unique to its application the past jigs you used before are not the one you want now. That is why you make a new one for each job unless you are doing new construction where hopefully everything is mostly the same thing. Not any different than changing the stair buttons on your framing square, probably about the same speed once you get use to using the method without having to keep track or look for the buttons.
we always called them stair dogs
Awsome video. I was going nuts trying to figure how to make my deck stairs. Thank you so much for making it so easy.
@frogmanbs4496 Glad to hear it helped. Thanks for watching!!
This is pretty simple, but most stairs are not quite so easy if you get into interior stairs. The math gets more complicated when you have a limited space for your run. Six to eight inches is always what I tried to get when figuring rise. Eight inches is a fairly steep set of stairs. Stairs and rafters were the hardest for a newbie to figure out and then cut.
I love it when a diy newbie rips out their stairs and attempts a “new look”. Brings a little extra work my way ;)
Good cheat is rise plus run should be as close to 18 as possible.. No less than 17 and no greater than 19 which would result in unnatural/uncomfortable strides and potential trip hazards.
Well you should do a video on a easy way to figure how to put stairs in where you don't have room like putting in landings, spiral stairs. And so forth
Absolutely a great and simpler way of doing good work which makes it faster . Easy to follow for beginners , the sharpest tool is the mind !!!
Thank you . This is indeed brilliant. I'm putting steps on my deck today. I've been horrified to tackle it. You took away my fear. Thank you brother
Good luck and glad it has helped.
Hi Eric. When you put the jig on the first stringer, the riser edge of the jig was pulled down, away from the end of the stringer. How far was that and why? Thank you. 😁
I was looking for the answer to that myself
Journeyman carpenter 20 years.i love this method.the last time i used a framing square and gauges for stairs was when i was a second year.i was lucky to work for a great old school roofer.
One problem, you measured from your door threshold to the ground at the foundation. Stairs obviously extend away from the fountain, and hopefully there's some slope to take water away from the building. You'd be better off measuring out to the end of where the stingers will set, finding a level line from the threshold, and measuring down from there.
Great job young man! Happy to see there's someone share a good trick to carpentry trade.
Hope it helps thanks for watching!!
Just a simple diy guy here. Great explanation. I just can’t wrap my head around how the position of the very first mark on the 2x12 was determined. It’s up a few inches from the end not flush. What did I miss? How far from that end is that first mark? Is it at 7” like the rest of the risers, 7 minus tread thickness, or something totally different? The answer is probably in there I just can’t find it.
I just had it so I could get 2 pieces out of the same board
And im in agreement as well. 1st time seeing this and love the idea of making a jig, but I didn't see the starting point on the 2×12 when u started making ur lines. ..I probably missed something and the answer is in here somewhere, I just didn't see it or figure it out! Thx to u for doing this video, my amateur ass will take all the help I can get!
Good job. I'm a finish carpenter for 35 years and now and then I need to help someone with stairs and all of a sudden I have to rember as I don't do it very often. Good job
👍 thanks for watching
Excellent video definitely takes a lot of the fear out of building some steps. One question I had was he mentioned the run was 10” but how did you come up with that number?
Just to have a nice wide step and using 5/4 decking it worked out as a nice number as well.
10” is the standard run for stringers
Usually the run for a step is determined by multiplying the riser height by 2 and then subtract that total from the #25 or #24. Each step should have a 1" overhang (nose) extending past the riser.
Thank you for sharing. What sounds like a family secret. If you came up with that yourself, you started the family secret I think God for you young man and I pray that he will continue to bless you with work that you can use your skills to provide for your family and glorify him. Thanks again big help.
Glad it was a help!!
This is a great trick. I build a lot of decks each year and this will save time and money. I build free standing decks like a champ but I always struggle with the step rail. I always get the damn thing just a little off and my spindles end up longer on one end than the other. Always looking to learn. Any input is much appreciated.
Hope it helps out on your next deck
Finally someone with a brain! Thank s for the video
Another good tip for cutting stringers is stacking them and cutting 2 at once so they're exactly the same with no chance of error. Set your saw depth as far as it will go and run the saw slow for the added thickness. This will score through the bottom board and give you a perfect template of the top board.
Also don't change position
He did great in the video
Cut all one direction first
This helped me a lot, thank you. Also the way you run your saw is super chaotic 😂 but hey it gets the job done
why do so many people think they need music in the background? don't they want us to hear them?
Why someone always complaining!
I can hear him fine. Turn up your hearing aid
Completely right .!!!
EASIEST WAY TO CUT STRINGERS, thanks man
Hi Mark how do you come up with 10" for the run? Is that just standard for all stairs? Thank you for this video. I've always felt this was too hard and this makes it super accessible!!!
No the 10 can be whatever you want if you have the room. The bigger the number the further from the landing it will be. I like 10 cause it gives plenty of room to step onto.
@@projectdiy873 perfect thank you so much!
The riser plus the tread measurement should be as close to 18” as possible for a comfortable stride up or down the steps. Anything less than 17” or more than 19” will be difficult and dangerous to use for kids, elderly, or anyone with physical limitations. To pass inspection they need to fall in this range as well. That’s why you might notice some steps with short risers will have much wider treads. Good luck with your future projects!
The 10" number works good for your 5/4 board. If you have two 5.5" boards that makes it 11" giving you one inch for the nosing.
For an unlimited run, multiply the riser height by two. 2x7=14. Subtract 14 from 25 which = 11. The simple formula to determine the safest rise and run for each step is two times the rise plus the run to equal 25. To determine the number of steps, always divide the height by 7. 42 / 7 = 6 steps. The rise is always determined first. Hope this is helpful.
AWESOME jig , this is great! im stealing the idea haha. Quick tip you should add to the next installment down the road , is to prep the ground where your stringers will sit! measuring from the door , right to the ground works if the ground is perfectly level, some folks forget to make sure the landing pad is at the same elevation , and finding where to put the landing pad is all wrapped up in the math you just displayed, but your looking at the run, and the amount of steps to determine that distance. I had little to no experience with stairs and this was the challenge I had to deal with when I built my first 2nd story set. I got it first try thank god because lumber was outrageously expensive at that time haha . awesome video sir
Yes thatbis correct on the landing. Mine was level but you do need the measurement where you landing is going to be. Thanks for watching
This is useful to someone who likes to use jigs, Using your framing square, you could have all your stringers laid out and cut in the time it takes you to build this jig.
Maybe you could, but a DIY guy doing it once in his life can't.
If you stack your first stringer you cut on top of a 2nd board when you cut through it will mark your 2nd stringer for you and so on,another time saver and it is very accurate
From a 44 year carpenter, good job but here is a pro tip for you. When measuring down to the ground, you should level out to the point where the stringers will contact the ground and take the measurement there. This takes into account the grade of the ground. It's not so necessary when building onto a flat surface but I do it anyway in case a 30 year carpenter built the flat surface.
You should get the origindl measurement where the stairs actually will be touching down especially if they. R deck stringers landing in the yard
I just got a 3 step stringer and used that as a pattern , but your way is much better when you have a little diff. in step high! Thanks
In Michigan, it's code to have a minimum of a 3 ft landing in front of any access door. It's very awkward to use stairs in this configuration.
I appreciate your ingenuity, however, an inexpensive set of stair nuts to secure to your framing square really is a better option, in my opinion, having built over 50 sets of stairs, indoors and out.
Keep up your learning. Thanks for posting.
@Hello Neil how are you doing
I used this method also stair gauges for my framing square. Sometimes the stair gauges can loosen up
I am a production and custom stair builder of 37 years. This idea is cute but a framing square with stair guides are the only way to layout a stair stringer. I would then trace my stringer out of plywood for a template to be accurate in over all length. If you used a cutoff piece like this guy is using your stringers would more than likely be a little different in overall length.
Great trick! Thanks for sharing it. We use jigs & templates for other tasks. Makes sense that they’d be helpful for stairs too.
Hope it helps thanks for watching!!
You have to get an accurate measure @ the landing. Otherwise your screwed .....
Thanks! Very well explained video so even I can understand how to do it now. I'm not a Carpenter but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I hear ya lol... hope it helps you out.
Im about to build a small deck with stairs for my granddaughters mobile home and this Video helps me more than you can imagine. Thank you very much.@@projectdiy873
You should mention that as a rule of thumb the (rise inches + run inches) should add up to 17 or 17 1/2 inches just like your example. Also, many times exterior stairs are limited to 6 inches rise for safety.
...for safety and old people's knees!
@@choimdachoim9491 I made 3 1/2" door steps for my 94 year old mother. Next it will have to be a ramp.
@@simpleman283 Lucky Mom. Good Son.
@@simpleman283 God bless you for taking care of your mother
Sigh...7 and 11.
That's 18 bozo..
I'm a carpenter iv always just measured them out, i like this idea, it's neat and quick I think I'll give it a go next stairs I do. 👍
Hope it works well for you
Turn that background music off
What a framing square and the brass locks are for same thing lol
Not bad but the back round music was annoying
Agree. Especially when you gotta think. Background loops adds another thing the brain has to analyze again and again each nanosecond for threat, purpose, usefulness, how to store (long/short), etc., etc., etc. Background music/noise is tiresome, repetitive, annoying and unwelcome at best. Usually, aggravating.
Really appreciate the simplicity! You did a great job of dummying down so us amateurs could understand. I do have one question: You made two cuts at the top of the stringer. Not sure how you determined size/angles to cut. I’m sure it’s simple, but wasn’t sure how to determine. Appreciate all the help,
As a professional carpenter and stair builder, the wood template is only going to be as accurate as your saw cuts and assembly. Any error is going to be transfered to the stringer and multiplied by the number of steps (typically 13.)
There's a reason why we typically use a framing square and stair gauges. Your stair-hack is nothing but an old carpenter trick and one who didn't happen to have the right tools on hand.
There's also a difference between rough, framing carpenters and finish carpenters. A rough carpenter would have no problem with such a template, whereas a finish carpenter might have some reservations.
Nice job. What would have been nice to see is how those went together after you finished cutting them out.
7" rise with 11" runs is the most comfortable stair.
Most common. Old people have a hard time with a 7 " riser so for them I go with a 6 .
Nice to see someone sticking to the old rule of thumb that 2 times the rise plus the run should total 25 to maintain a safe step under the NBC.
@@charliepatterson9321 Which in essence can and will create more steps. But I have done the same, even 5" steps.
@@davidmackay2353 yes sir . Old tymers with bad knees don't mind a 5" step either .
When you've got to have a lot of exact duplicates, it's best to come up with a jig or template. I'm an architect and I can tell you when we draw stairs we don't draw each line individually, one after another. We draw a single tread / riser and copy it toe-to-toe.
That sir is freaking awesome , thank you for the great tip and how to. Great explanation as well from beginning to the end 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hope it helps. Thanks for watching!!
Awesome video !
Simplicity is the key to the happiness.
Super simple, definitely have added this to my tool belt!
Glad it helped
I lost my frame and square. Your jig came in so helpful on a repair job thank you
Glad it helped
Great idea. I once used a square to do the lay out, what I didn't realize was the square measure marks from one side to the other didn't match, so my 'perfectly measured' treads were wonky, till I figured out the problem with my square. I am about to embark on another set of stairs. This will help me out, thanks.
Hope it helps. Thanks for watching!!
Started carpentry work when I was 16, I'm now 70. When you were marking out the tread and risers, it reminded me of one of my first days on the job. I was squaring up some 2x4's with my newly acquired speed square, and the foreman asked me, if I was going to mark them through, or cut them.
I always like to leave a very faint line, especially on wet lumber, so if someone else is cutting, they gotta play the guessing game.....
@@maritimelogger1296
That's the reason I was taught to use a nail until the saw man started complaining, then I started using a railroad spike.
That's a pretty clever idea i have cut a lot of steps with a square but that saves a lot of time
I learned in carpentry school to use a rafter/framing square. If you know how to use one properly, you can create stringers at any pitch of stairs. I learned how to determine the tread and riser length depending on the pitch. Nowadays everyone is looking for a shortcut.
I really enjoyed your video and I understand how to make the jig but when you drew the lines at the bottom and tried to explain about the rest I was at a loss of where to cut and felt it wasn’t clear what to do from that point. I’m not trying to criticize only wish you had explained better for those of us who have to build stairs but haven’t done it. Thanks, Dan.
That had me scratching my head too, otherwise a good tutorial.
I am a retired carpenter, Use a framing square and stair gauge clamps. You have a good idea, but a framing square has many functions. A lot of the old ways are forgotten or neglected. I see houses trimmed now, and the inside corners are mitered. Cope your corners, and keep the right ( I mean ) old ways. I was taught to trim with a homemade miter box.
Some old ways are better for sure
Thanks for the way that you lay out your steps i went to Grenada do a step for my sister was the easiest thing 😊
Sweet glad it helped
I think you are right ✅ I have done concert layout for high rise and bridge work.
One thing I love about carpentry is theres always something learn. Always a slick trick you can learn from another guy, and choose to adopt it or not. Next time I have to do stairs Im gonna give this one a shot, see if I like it.
Exactly ! I remember years ago I had a way to layout and cut a radius UNTIL , I worked with another carpenter who I watched layout his radius , then cut it . Faster , then the way I did mine . I am retired now , but was always open to learn especially when someone had a better mousetrap .
You showed us probably the easiest way to lay out stringers I've seen. A lot easier than using a carpenter square and trying to hit the same marks each time. Also good to point out using the first one as the pattern for any other stringers you have to make. Thanks.
Glad it helped thanks for watching and the comment.
Nice job
Good explanation, nice jig, and meaty stringers.
P. S. Great trick on making the steps. Very useful. Thank you.
@pearlhall3787 glad it was a help and thanks for watching!!
Thank you so much for just keeping it simple 🎉
Nice, I'm diy & did steps using measurements from another stringer, this is gold 4 me
Glad it helps
Very simple to do. Great idea. Thank you
Nice, I also use a gig to rin the saw up against, then finish with jigsaw!
Very cool man thanks!! I like it that the stops on the square can't slide. I have screwed up stringers before by using a square with a framing square and the stops moved.
Have steps on a deck this week I'll try your jig idea!!!
Thanks brother!!!
Yes sir hope it works well for you!!