Ive done this a few times, I think a good tip would be to remove the brake fluid cap and put a rag over the top of it. So when you push back the piston, you don't cause any damage to the servo. That way you relieve built up pressure. GREAT VIDEOS by the way :)
BEN...I JUST WANT TO TAKE A MINUTE TO SAY THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!! IT SHOWED ME HOW SIMPLE IT WAS TO REPLACE MY CAR'S BRAKE PADS THAT I FINALLY DID FOR THE FIRST TIME IN MY WHOLE LIFE. BEFORE FOR ME IT WAS REALLY IMPOSSIBLE,,I ALWAYS HAD TO PAY OR LOOK FOR HELP WITH MY FRIENDS..I REALLY APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO AND THE WORK YOU DO AND THE TIME YOU TAKE TO DO IT...THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I believe the video was very well presented and accurate. The brake fluid issue is if you change the front and /or back brakes at different times you should change the fluid at that time and making it unnecessary to change the fluid again unless it is a few years between the front and back change, in that case change the fluid again. It is best though to change all the pads at the same time if it is possible. If you have never did your brakes before I recommend this one.
That is the rubber BOOT on the steering rack. The 'ears' of that so called 'dog' is the spring clip that holds the rubber boot on. It is not a 'dog', but from the end of that rubber boot, it looks sort of like a stuffed dog toy.
Here are a couple things to note. Make sure the master cylinder is not full when you press the piston back into the caliper or it will overflow. I find it better to place the old brake pad onto the piston before pressing it back into the caliper so you will have less chance of cracking the piston if you crank too hard on the c-clamp. Lastly, not all cars are set up to just press the piston back into the caliper. You need a special tool for some vehicles.
The only important thing that the video missed was watching brake fluid so that it does not overflow when compressing the piston with the c-clamp. If your reservoir is low enough this might not matter, but it's best to make sure this does not overflow, and also don't forget to top off the brake fluid after you're all done if you had to remove any to start with.
I spent a couple of hours today just trying to unscrew the bolt with a lever... it's harder than it looks and especially since most people don't have the tools that he has
carol s it’s recommended it depends on how much you need to compress. It’s it’s a lot the yes remove the cap. If it’s a little it’s not really required
Did any one else spot the hidden dog in the video @4:19 also Awesome video. Great bit of explaining and demonstration. Also, I know lots of people think the safety side is silly but think it's great you are showing the best practice by having the gloves and glasses on.
Thanks dude, as a guy who only knows how to replace tires and spark plugs, this was pretty easy to follow for someone like me who is nearly illiterate in the vocabulary of auto mechanics.
Ben, I agree! I HATE doing drums. I wanted to add to how you compressed the plunger back into the caliper.....I use an old brake pad so the plunger stays flush. Im sure you already know this. Great vids
Great video. I have a question regarding a Mazda 3 2010. I recently had my breaks done, yet when we are driving slowly and we apply the breaks there is an embarrassing squeak that occurs. What could possibly be causing this if I just had them done. I know breaks need time to settle but it's been a month. We went back to the mechanic and he adjusted them but same result. Any advice?
If the rotors weren't replaced cleaned or resurfaced properly it can cause a squeak. Some times they'll forget to reinstall the retaining clips which help cut down on squeaking . It's also a possibility you got played. I've seen shops charge people for a job they never did or half assed.
To everyone complaining about how it costs so much to do a brake change at a shop... well you gotta figure that this is one of the number 1 safety issues in a vehicle. If you do it yourself and your brakes don't work afterward, sure you saved yourself some money by doing it yourself, but possibly at the cost of your life or another's. Brake pads may be a simple procedure, but one wrong move can mean disaster. Sometimes it's worth it to go to the shop and spend the extra money to have a trained professional take care of it. I recently attempted to do the brakes myself, but found out the hard way that I needed a new caliper since it seized. Thankfully, I know someone who is a mechanic and they looked at it and told me exactly what I needed. Sure it cost me a little extra to have the guy inspect and put it together for me, but hey, it is worth it because now I have no worries or stress about if my brakes will work or not...
Think you have to pump the the breaks after the job to bring the pressure back up. I know little about cars. Just my input. On another note, I'm changing out my pads, how do I know my rotors also need replacing?
It is a good idea to pump the breaks afterwards. Your car will have a specific safe width for your rotors. If they have worn down too much, they will need replacing. You can normally tell if they're worn because they'll have a lip around the edge where the pads don't rub on it. Your best bet is to google the legal wear for your rotors and then measure them.
It might but, some/most cars have rubber around the bolt (pins) meaning you should use silicone grease while others might only have metal and in that case you could use the same kind. They actually sell specific lubricants for brake calipers and brake jobs! You could always ask at the store for them.
This is great. Other than the sensor squealing, what is the rule of thumb for replacing pads (20,000 miles? 25,000?). Also - Can you do this with a regular tire jack, or do you need a lift to do it? Not much room with a jack, but would love to try to do this to save a few bucks
Great video, how would you recommend the home DIY change their breaks without access to a lift like you have in the video, would you suggest a simple jack or a set of 4 ramps?
I usually add a little lube to the pad plate where it makes contact with the bracket that supports the ends. Some models are equipped with polished shims to reduce clearance and ease movement with out wearing the supporting bracket. The shims can usually be cleaned and re-used. I do not grease the bracket just the part of the pad plate that makes contact. Allowing the plate movement to spread the lubricant reduces the chance of the lubricant being pushed on to the rotor surface.
Lol this is from 8 years ago. But ya it helps but it also depends on how much it was compressed. If it’s only a little it not a big. If you need to compress a lot then yes remove the cap
@@kenkyuen What about opening the bleeder valve on the caliper when compressing pistons? I just did brakes on my bike and compressed the pistons without doing that, now my master cylinder won't pump fluid/brake lever fully depresses no matter how much I pump/can't even bleed the brakes so it doesn't appear to just be air in the lines (mc seems to be shot from all the crud when compressing pistons). I think I need a new master cylinder now 😑
Colton Barrett I don’t know bikes as much. But normally you open the cap to the master cylinder when you compress the piston. I guess you could open the bleeder valve to compress the piston but normally I pump the brakes to bleed them. Not sure exactly what’s wrong with your bike :(
@@kenkyuen okay well I appreciate the reply, I'm gonna go to a shop and ask them about it. As far as cars I've also heard those with ABS can be damaged by not doing the same thing though.
When doing brake service (to renew or just stop brake noise), you must thoroughly clean then use an OE Approved install procedure. OE’s now recommend using brake soap & water to clean friction surfaces, scrubbing (not spraying) demagnetizes to release metal, oil & dirt. To reassemble, always apply OEM synthetic lubricants & rotor conditioning treatment. Learn more tips and this OE Approved Procedure, it extends life, eliminates noise & actually reduces stopping distance 5% plus... stopbrakenoise
With gas prices going up and up and people switching to hybrid and electric cars I would love to see a video with maintenance tips. The other day I needed a jump for my car and I popped open my girlfriend's hybrid's hood only to see no battery to get a jump from. Can you make a video of simple things like how to safely clean under the hood of hybrid cars? Or a video on how to change the regenerative breaks? Thank you in advance.
As long as you didn't have to remove the brake line for any reason you shouldn't need to bleed. The fluid will rise in the master cylinder as you push the piston in, so you will probably want to open it up to make things easier. Also keep an eye on the fluid level as you can overflow it if you aren't careful. Suck some out with a turkey baster if you have to. Do inspect your brake lines while you're doing this, looking for cracking and leaks. If you need to replace them it's not a terrible job, but you'll need to bleed the system after. Also check the rubber boot around the piston. If you have to replace that you'll need to bleed, also.
Chico Swazi You're right but remember to do that before you crank the engine. Otherwise the pump will pump air in the lines and then the brakes will have to be bled.
@@anytowni6141 In, but not out. So, when you push the piston, the fluid in the reservoir will rise, compressing the air in the reservoir. If you have to push the piston in a great amount, the air in the reservoir will be compressed a lot and will resist the pushing of the piston. Since the reservoir doesn't let air out, you must loosen the cap on the reservoir so the air can escape.
thanks for the video! I'm gonna do this for the first time in my life on MY rabbit haha. I'll have my computer and this video with me every step of the way.... wish me luck!
awesome vid. thank you so much. i am a diy guy on my car (no cash) so i will do my own breaks. but of course i don't want to risk my fam. so i appreciate the step by step show how.
After you change the pads you need to bleed the brakes the make sure you have proper contact. Bleeding is a 2 person job. The procedure is to find the bleed nipple. Once you see it grab a wrench and open the valve. ( Here is were you will need a friend ) your friend will press on the brake pedal and once he is down you close the valve. Then and only then your friend can release the pedal. And repeat a few times. Be sure to tell your friend "up" or "down". 1) open valve " DOWN" 2) depress brake pedal, and hold 3) close valve "Up" 4) release brake pedal Repeat
The point of this is to make sure you dont have any air enter the system. If you are bleeding all brakes start as far away from master cylinder as you can Master cylinder on driver side 1) passenger rear 2) driver rear 3) passenger front 4) driver front
A side note, remove the cap on the reservoir before compressing the caliper piston. When doing all four calipers, its a guarantee the fluid will pop the cap off.
if one of the dual piston is slightly leas compressed than the other one maybe by like 5mm will it make even contact once i pump my brakes during normal use?
I had front break pads changed 2 days ago at an auto center. it seems not working smoothly. When I hit the breaks down to the end to completely stop the car, I heard a sound and feels the car shaking (once) at the time of stopping, especially when the car is stucked in the traffic, which requires frequently hitting and releasing the breaks. Please advise what could be the problem. Thank you so much.
Remember to press the brake pedal a few times when you're finished, so that the pads will sit correctly. A colleague of mine forgot that, and he ended up denting a customers cars.
Thank you for your video. As I was taking off my lug nuts I broke one of the bolts, and though it was an annoying and easy fix, I am having a terrible time putting in the new bolt. I think that I am going to have to break it again and start the fix again. Any suggestions? I drive a 2001 Honda Accord.
I have a question, does it matter the type of car it is because my friend told me that it depends on what type of car it is? Also how much can i get brake pads and where can i usually get them at?
+brandon ralph your friend would be correct. Different vehicles have different brake calipers. In general, it can all be relatively the same set-up, however there are different size pads, anti-rattle clips, etc that can make procedures different than what you saw here. As for brake pad costs, I'm not entirely sure, but they shouldn't cost you more than $30. I have a 94 Ford Ranger and the pads for it were about $25.
Hi i have camry if for some reason while putting back the sliding pin bolt original pin bolt rubber on the bottom accidentally reversed it what will happened? thanks :)
Good video man. I do have a question for you. I brought a used ford falcon today and when driving home along the freeway i applied the brakes to discover there was a shudder back through the brake peddle and steering wheel, i believe it is because of the uneven surface of the rotors so i will be getting them machined flat. I will be taking the rotors off and putting them on my self. My question is, if i discover that there are relatively new brake pads will i still need to replace them?
Not really. It may take a few miles for the old pads to "seat" to the machined rotors. The shuddering can also be caused or exasperated by bad ball joints, bad wheel bearings, bad steering rack or some other front-end problem, so be sure to thoroughly inspect the entire front end.
I'm not a mechanic - I'm a scientist. Usually you can hand-tighten pretty much any bolt and a lot of experienced mechanics can judge the torque by hand. If you can, it's best to use a calibrated torque gauge at least for a while so that you learn how much force produces the needed torque. If you don't have the cash, you can always hand tighten.
before attempting to push the piston back in its bore, open the bleed screw first. rust & sediment result as moisture accumulates in the brake fluid. some unknowing technicians will bottom out the piston in caliper bores without opening the bleed screw. this forces the sediment from low parts of the system back to the ABS and master cylinder. _according to this automechanic book i am reading right now.
Jesus Christ this video proves most mechanics are fucking crooks. Wish there were more like this guy. My local one is asking me $600 to have this simple job done.
***** Thats my point though. The materials costed me 50 bucks and I did this myself. That would mean my local shop wanted to charge $550 in labor for something that took me maybe 30 minutes?. Thats fucking bullshit.
Just got back from Pep boys they want $580 to replace pads! He says five eighty i say five hundred eighty! wat pads for a 4 at advance auto $50 and a mexican in the parking lot $50 30 minutes later done for $100 some mechanice shops charge too much
Rule-of-thumb: Tighten until very snug (until you think it's tight), then tighten just a little more. This rule-of-thumb does not apply to engine bolts or any other kind of pressure vessel which you should use a torque wrench on.
Hi Ben, thanks for the video. When I depress the pedal, my left front brake makes clicking sound and some air releasing sound, at the same time my foot feel the pedal vibrate. It will suddenly pull to the right occasionally, or the pedal will stuck at its half way. If I depress the pedal harder, it will go down as usual. I did the following job already and it still has the problem: changed master cylinder / servo / vacuum hose / ABS pump / brake pad / changed rubber ring and groove for the piston and caliper and cleared the dried grease and (not change whole set caliper) / greased the pin and changed the pin groove / rotor / brake hose. The problem still here. Then I make visual inspection on the brake pad, it has plays between the pad "ears" and the rests laterally (about 1.5mm) and horizontally (about 2.5mm). Will these be the causes of the issue? The pads are aftermarket items. Million thanks.
I was trying to take the caliper out but it won't budge. I can see a piece of metal through the mid section of the caliper. I looks like a clip of some sort. is this what is preventing me from taking the caliper out? I didn't see it in the video.
This was a great video! One question: I have a 05 Volkswagen Jetta which I would assume would be comparable to what you just did. Using that C-Clamp, how far did you push the calliper down? Just enough to fit over the pads?
Hi,....i have put new brakes up front (ceramic). I have noticed that there is a bit more dust on the rim on one side than the other. I have used a infrared thermometer to check the heat and I have noticed on driver's side the temperature rise an extra 5 degrees. Is that normal?
i have a 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t.....the issue im having is that when i start the car up when warn, it almost stall then goes back to its normal and the feels like it lost some power......and i have no check engine light. what do u think the problem could be?
Ive done this a few times, I think a good tip would be to remove the brake fluid cap and put a rag over the top of it. So when you push back the piston, you don't cause any damage to the servo. That way you relieve built up pressure. GREAT VIDEOS by the way :)
BEN...I JUST WANT TO TAKE A MINUTE TO SAY THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!! IT SHOWED ME HOW SIMPLE IT WAS TO REPLACE MY CAR'S BRAKE PADS THAT I FINALLY DID FOR THE FIRST TIME IN MY WHOLE LIFE. BEFORE FOR ME IT WAS REALLY IMPOSSIBLE,,I ALWAYS HAD TO PAY OR LOOK FOR HELP WITH MY FRIENDS..I REALLY APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO AND THE WORK YOU DO AND THE TIME YOU TAKE TO DO IT...THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Slide pins should ONLY be lubricated with silicone grease, so as not to damage the rubber that surrounds them. You might want to note that.
this! use Silicone Paste or (Silicon Grease), it works with the rubber parts, otherwise normal grease might eat away at the rubber parts
Noted
Copper slip. Unless you plan on keeping the car for the next 50 years
Automotive Engineering student, finding this series really helpful with things I missed out on in class. Great work & thank you so much!!
how did your studies go?
I believe the video was very well presented and accurate. The brake fluid issue is if you change the front and /or back brakes at different times you should change the fluid at that time and making it unnecessary to change the fluid again unless it is a few years between the front and back change, in that case change the fluid again. It is best though to change all the pads at the same time if it is possible. If you have never did your brakes before I recommend this one.
Watched this, did the work myself on my 350z and saved over $1600 which is what Nissan wanted to charge me!! Thanks!
Love seeing everyone coming here cause daddy didn't teach us lol
+SuperURBIN
My dad taught me. But I like checking multiple sources since different people do things slightly differently.
+Mooie Telebogen Agreee. ChrisFix method is also different
+SuperURBIN My Dad taught me too, but frankly, I don't trust that idiot.
+Shineymcshine79 lmao
no one teached me anything about cars im trying to learn so i can do myself
Anybody else see the dog above the breaks?!?!? Pause at 4:21 look I'
Lol
lol
That is the rubber BOOT on the steering rack. The 'ears' of that so called 'dog' is the spring clip that holds the rubber boot on. It is not a 'dog', but from the end of that rubber boot, it looks sort of like a stuffed dog toy.
Yeah it does look like it ha ha.
Damn...good eyes Dom!!!! That's a riot...LOLOL!
Here are a couple things to note. Make sure the master cylinder is not full when you press the piston back into the caliper or it will overflow. I find it better to place the old brake pad onto the piston before pressing it back into the caliper so you will have less chance of cracking the piston if you crank too hard on the c-clamp. Lastly, not all cars are set up to just press the piston back into the caliper. You need a special tool for some vehicles.
What do I do if the cylinder overflowed?
nice, simple, good explanation, under budget, and good shots. Thanks
The only important thing that the video missed was watching brake fluid so that it does not overflow when compressing the piston with the c-clamp. If your reservoir is low enough this might not matter, but it's best to make sure this does not overflow, and also don't forget to top off the brake fluid after you're all done if you had to remove any to start with.
OMG ! :) This got to be the only brake-how-to on TH-cam that actually bothers with the proper torque spec for once :) Thumbs up for that!
Really appreciate your patient and good teaching.... Kudos
Spoiler alert: it’s harder than then they make it look on TH-cam.
Seem so too me as well
Barely...maybe to do both brake pads AND rotors, otherwise brake pads are pretty easy honestly
Actually it's pretty easy unless the bolts are tighter than a visit's fart
I spent a couple of hours today just trying to unscrew the bolt with a lever... it's harder than it looks and especially since most people don't have the tools that he has
It always is
Don't forget you have to take the cap off of your brake fluid reservoir or the caliper WILL NOT retract!
KRA3030 do you have to take that cap off every time you change your brakes?
carol s it’s recommended it depends on how much you need to compress. It’s it’s a lot the yes remove the cap. If it’s a little it’s not really required
This is a HUGE step he forgot to mention
Good show. Many of us already know how to do this, but for the new enthusiast or DIY people out there, this is great!
Did any one else spot the hidden dog in the video @4:19
also Awesome video. Great bit of explaining and demonstration. Also, I know lots of people think the safety side is silly but think it's great you are showing the best practice by having the gloves and glasses on.
Well done my friend very helpful information for whoever wants to change their car brake pads on their own...
my latino friend down the street does both front wheels for 25$ aint that something
Yup we usually do it very inexpensive or will accept a six pack.
Thanks dude, as a guy who only knows how to replace tires and spark plugs, this was pretty easy to follow for someone like me who is nearly illiterate in the vocabulary of auto mechanics.
Nice, great reminders, and i liked that is was within a shorter video length of 6:24 Thanks!
Ben, I agree! I HATE doing drums. I wanted to add to how you compressed the plunger back into the caliper.....I use an old brake pad so the plunger stays flush. Im sure you already know this.
Great vids
Great video. I have a question regarding a Mazda 3 2010. I recently had my breaks done, yet when we are driving slowly and we apply the breaks there is an embarrassing squeak that occurs. What could possibly be causing this if I just had them done. I know breaks need time to settle but it's been a month. We went back to the mechanic and he adjusted them but same result. Any advice?
If the rotors weren't replaced cleaned or resurfaced properly it can cause a squeak. Some times they'll forget to reinstall the retaining clips which help cut down on squeaking . It's also a possibility you got played. I've seen shops charge people for a job they never did or half assed.
My dad went to the store in Mexico. Thanks for the tutorial
One of the best most precise videos I've seen on TH-cam. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK, I now have the confidence to do it myself.
im high and lost lol
Haha! Me too ;)
big money 😭😭😭😂
big money He make it look easy af om the video im struggling pulling this old ass caliber off
bruh! Like in the woods at night! Im too high for this shit
The only thing you need to remember is that the leg bone connects to the hip bone bro! LOL
To everyone complaining about how it costs so much to do a brake change at a shop... well you gotta figure that this is one of the number 1 safety issues in a vehicle. If you do it yourself and your brakes don't work afterward, sure you saved yourself some money by doing it yourself, but possibly at the cost of your life or another's.
Brake pads may be a simple procedure, but one wrong move can mean disaster. Sometimes it's worth it to go to the shop and spend the extra money to have a trained professional take care of it.
I recently attempted to do the brakes myself, but found out the hard way that I needed a new caliper since it seized. Thankfully, I know someone who is a mechanic and they looked at it and told me exactly what I needed. Sure it cost me a little extra to have the guy inspect and put it together for me, but hey, it is worth it because now I have no worries or stress about if my brakes will work or not...
InsomClemmens STFU go shove your fear tactics up your ass. It's pretty simple
Faithful warrior lmfao
Exactly and when people are playing with you life that's even worse
Lol it isn't rocket science Take your time and do it right.
Not everyone is as slow as you are fear tactic boy. Shove it! It's simple. Follow instructions.
Think you have to pump the the breaks after the job to bring the pressure back up. I know little about cars. Just my input.
On another note, I'm changing out my pads, how do I know my rotors also need replacing?
It is a good idea to pump the breaks afterwards. Your car will have a specific safe width for your rotors. If they have worn down too much, they will need replacing. You can normally tell if they're worn because they'll have a lip around the edge where the pads don't rub on it. Your best bet is to google the legal wear for your rotors and then measure them.
Awesome
Its amazing how physically fit you have to be just to do these jobs.I will definitely be taking the car to the garage for new brakes.
First time watching one of your videos. Liked it and I am now a subscriber lol
perfect video, I’m a 10th grade auto tech student and i’m wanting to learn more about cars!
Great video but I personally think it's important to let viewers know what type of grease to use for the pins.
Thanks for a great rundown on the procedure Ben. I'm going to have a crack at it and hopefully save some money
Was the grease you used all the same even for the pins and are the clips going to be the same on every car?
It might but, some/most cars have rubber around the bolt (pins) meaning you should use silicone grease while others might only have metal and in that case you could use the same kind. They actually sell specific lubricants for brake calipers and brake jobs! You could always ask at the store for them.
Edmary Rodríguez thank you
Thanks for this, it made a huge difference when driving!
This is great. Other than the sensor squealing, what is the rule of thumb for replacing pads (20,000 miles? 25,000?).
Also - Can you do this with a regular tire jack, or do you need a lift to do it? Not much room with a jack, but would love to try to do this to save a few bucks
Thank you!!!! I just saved myself a TON of money!!!!!! Turns out the brakes weren't worn down at all. But I would've never known if I hadn't checked!
Great video, how would you recommend the home DIY change their breaks without access to a lift like you have in the video, would you suggest a simple jack or a set of 4 ramps?
I usually add a little lube to the pad plate where it makes contact with the bracket that supports the ends. Some models are equipped with polished shims to reduce clearance and ease movement with out wearing the supporting bracket. The shims can usually be cleaned and re-used. I do not grease the bracket just the part of the pad plate that makes contact. Allowing the plate movement to spread the lubricant reduces the chance of the lubricant being pushed on to the rotor surface.
"And remember... always wear your safety glasses." Now go back and watch the video again. Oops :-)
I heard that it's always a good idea to remove the cap from the fluid reservoir before compressing the piston.
Lol this is from 8 years ago. But ya it helps but it also depends on how much it was compressed. If it’s only a little it not a big. If you need to compress a lot then yes remove the cap
@@kenkyuen What about opening the bleeder valve on the caliper when compressing pistons? I just did brakes on my bike and compressed the pistons without doing that, now my master cylinder won't pump fluid/brake lever fully depresses no matter how much I pump/can't even bleed the brakes so it doesn't appear to just be air in the lines (mc seems to be shot from all the crud when compressing pistons). I think I need a new master cylinder now 😑
Colton Barrett I don’t know bikes as much. But normally you open the cap to the master cylinder when you compress the piston. I guess you could open the bleeder valve to compress the piston but normally I pump the brakes to bleed them. Not sure exactly what’s wrong with your bike :(
@@kenkyuen okay well I appreciate the reply, I'm gonna go to a shop and ask them about it. As far as cars I've also heard those with ABS can be damaged by not doing the same thing though.
Colton Barrett ya you definitely don’t want to apply too much pressure in the brake system.
When doing brake service (to renew or just stop brake noise), you must thoroughly clean then use an OE Approved install procedure. OE’s now recommend using brake soap & water to clean friction surfaces, scrubbing (not spraying) demagnetizes to release metal, oil & dirt. To reassemble, always apply OEM synthetic lubricants & rotor conditioning treatment. Learn more tips and this OE Approved Procedure, it extends life, eliminates noise & actually reduces stopping distance 5% plus... stopbrakenoise
With gas prices going up and up and people switching to hybrid and electric cars I would love to see a video with maintenance tips. The other day I needed a jump for my car and I popped open my girlfriend's hybrid's hood only to see no battery to get a jump from. Can you make a video of simple things like how to safely clean under the hood of hybrid cars? Or a video on how to change the regenerative breaks?
Thank you in advance.
Awesome help my friend. I will return for some more advice. Thank you very much.
Hey man thanks. You saved me over $70! Only had to spend $30 for the pads.
This is such a great video! Thumbs up big time!
you have any tips for a 4Runner 1998 on how to change the brakes?
Cabin Boy is back!
Hey I wanted to say that your great at explain things dude and all the information is real helpful...hang loose 🤙🏾
So when you compressed the caliper, i noticed that you did not bleed the brake fluid. Is that not necassary on all cars? Or is older cars different?
Chico Swazi how would you be able to tell while putting them back on?
As long as you didn't have to remove the brake line for any reason you shouldn't need to bleed. The fluid will rise in the master cylinder as you push the piston in, so you will probably want to open it up to make things easier. Also keep an eye on the fluid level as you can overflow it if you aren't careful. Suck some out with a turkey baster if you have to.
Do inspect your brake lines while you're doing this, looking for cracking and leaks. If you need to replace them it's not a terrible job, but you'll need to bleed the system after. Also check the rubber boot around the piston. If you have to replace that you'll need to bleed, also.
Chico Swazi You're right but remember to do that before you crank the engine. Otherwise the pump will pump air in the lines and then the brakes will have to be bled.
I hear that you don'thave to remove the master cylinder cap when changing pads it lets air in ?
@@anytowni6141 In, but not out. So, when you push the piston, the fluid in the reservoir will rise, compressing the air in the reservoir. If you have to push the piston in a great amount, the air in the reservoir will be compressed a lot and will resist the pushing of the piston. Since the reservoir doesn't let air out, you must loosen the cap on the reservoir so the air can escape.
thanks for the video! I'm gonna do this for the first time in my life on MY rabbit haha. I'll have my computer and this video with me every step of the way.... wish me luck!
Lol good?
awesome vid. thank you so much. i am a diy guy on my car (no cash) so i will do my own breaks. but of course i don't want to risk my fam. so i appreciate the step by step show how.
Excellent video, keep doing these.
Little did he know, “Hi I’m Ben” would become legendary
Did you have to open the master cylinder reservoir to release pressure when using the C Clamp to push the fluid back up?
Where do i have to look to get the right size for the pads , how tide they need to be ? For a specific model of Volkswagen. Thanks
After you change the pads you need to bleed the brakes the make sure you have proper contact. Bleeding is a 2 person job. The procedure is to find the bleed nipple. Once you see it grab a wrench and open the valve. ( Here is were you will need a friend ) your friend will press on the brake pedal and once he is down you close the valve. Then and only then your friend can release the pedal. And repeat a few times. Be sure to tell your friend "up" or "down".
1) open valve
" DOWN"
2) depress brake pedal, and hold
3) close valve
"Up"
4) release brake pedal
Repeat
The point of this is to make sure you dont have any air enter the system.
If you are bleeding all brakes start as far away from master cylinder as you can
Master cylinder on driver side
1) passenger rear
2) driver rear
3) passenger front
4) driver front
Thank you, short and simple
I did everything you showed in the video, but now the breaks on m 2003 Buick Century don't work at all. What do I need to do?
Very good job Well done My friend !
If you remove the master cylinder cover it will relieve the pressure in the system making compressing the caliper pistons easier.
A side note, remove the cap on the reservoir before compressing the caliper piston. When doing all four calipers, its a guarantee the fluid will pop the cap off.
The brake fluid should not go back to the master cylinder it have to be bleed out when the piston is pushed in.
Carlos Rosario
Wrong !
if one of the dual piston is slightly leas compressed than the other one maybe by like 5mm will it make even contact once i pump my brakes during normal use?
Hello I have a question? The wire pin that you put at the end when youre all done. do all cars have that? Or it depends on the car?
Great video! Helped a lot!
I had front break pads changed 2 days ago at an auto center. it seems not working smoothly. When I hit the breaks down to the end to completely stop the car, I heard a sound and feels the car shaking (once) at the time of stopping, especially when the car is stucked in the traffic, which requires frequently hitting and releasing the breaks. Please advise what could be the problem. Thank you so much.
the grease acts as a cushion between the back of the pad surface and the caliper piston and prevents vibration transfer that can lead to a squeal.
after bleeding brakes and replacing brake booster and mastercyclinder what do you think that could cause my truck to not stop on a dime
Remember to press the brake pedal a few times when you're finished, so that the pads will sit correctly. A colleague of mine forgot that, and he ended up denting a customers cars.
Thank you for your video. As I was taking off my lug nuts I broke one of the bolts, and though it was an annoying and easy fix, I am having a terrible time putting in the new bolt. I think that I am going to have to break it again and start the fix again. Any suggestions? I drive a 2001 Honda Accord.
I have a question, does it matter the type of car it is because my friend told me that it depends on what type of car it is? Also how much can i get brake pads and where can i usually get them at?
+brandon ralph your friend would be correct. Different vehicles have different brake calipers. In general, it can all be relatively the same set-up, however there are different size pads, anti-rattle clips, etc that can make procedures different than what you saw here.
As for brake pad costs, I'm not entirely sure, but they shouldn't cost you more than $30. I have a 94 Ford Ranger and the pads for it were about $25.
freaking awesome def something to do, on the weekend
Thanks Ben, great video
good explanation instead playing music on back ground ....
Hi i have camry if for some reason while putting back the sliding pin bolt original pin bolt rubber on the bottom accidentally reversed it what will happened? thanks :)
Good video man. I do have a question for you. I brought a used ford falcon today and when driving home along the freeway i applied the brakes to discover there was a shudder back through the brake peddle and steering wheel, i believe it is because of the uneven surface of the rotors so i will be getting them machined flat. I will be taking the rotors off and putting them on my self. My question is, if i discover that there are relatively new brake pads will i still need to replace them?
Not really. It may take a few miles for the old pads to "seat" to the machined rotors. The shuddering can also be caused or exasperated by bad ball joints, bad wheel bearings, bad steering rack or some other front-end problem, so be sure to thoroughly inspect the entire front end.
Nice Video!
Very good and clear thanx dude
I'm not a mechanic - I'm a scientist. Usually you can hand-tighten pretty much any bolt and a lot of experienced mechanics can judge the torque by hand. If you can, it's best to use a calibrated torque gauge at least for a while so that you learn how much force produces the needed torque. If you don't have the cash, you can always hand tighten.
I don't think you mean "hand tighten." You tighten the bolt with a wrench not your hand.
before attempting to push the piston back in its bore, open the bleed screw first. rust & sediment result as moisture accumulates in the brake fluid. some unknowing technicians will bottom out the piston in caliper bores without opening the bleed screw. this forces the sediment from low parts of the system back to the ABS and master cylinder. _according to this automechanic book i am reading right now.
Jesus Christ this video proves most mechanics are fucking crooks. Wish there were more like this guy. My local one is asking me $600 to have this simple job done.
***** Thats my point though. The materials costed me 50 bucks and I did this myself. That would mean my local shop wanted to charge $550 in labor for something that took me maybe 30 minutes?. Thats fucking bullshit.
Well, you may have needed more than just the pads changed.
i just read and learn to do stuff like this by myself. it helps alot to save money.
Gods Reclamation For sure
Just got back from Pep boys they want $580 to replace pads! He says five eighty i say five hundred eighty! wat pads for a 4 at advance auto $50 and a mexican in the parking lot $50 30 minutes later done for $100 some mechanice shops charge too much
Thanks alot bro.. I just change the ones on my 300 really nice vid;)
Love your work mate
How necessary is the torque wrench? That's the one tool I don't have and I'm wondering if it would be worth it to buy one for this job.
Mildly. Just make sure it's nice and tight. I've never used one for my calipers.
Rule-of-thumb: Tighten until very snug (until you think it's tight), then tighten just a little more. This rule-of-thumb does not apply to engine bolts or any other kind of pressure vessel which you should use a torque wrench on.
Is there any flexible or adjustable "car part hanger" product, like a legit product used to do what the coat hanger does in this video or no?
Hi Ben, thanks for the video. When I depress the pedal, my left front brake makes clicking sound and some air releasing sound, at the same time my foot feel the pedal vibrate. It will suddenly pull to the right occasionally, or the pedal will stuck at its half way. If I depress the pedal harder, it will go down as usual. I did the following job already and it still has the problem: changed master cylinder / servo / vacuum hose / ABS pump / brake pad / changed rubber ring and groove for the piston and caliper and cleared the dried grease and (not change whole set caliper) / greased the pin and changed the pin groove / rotor / brake hose. The problem still here. Then I make visual inspection on the brake pad, it has plays between the pad "ears" and the rests laterally (about 1.5mm) and horizontally (about 2.5mm). Will these be the causes of the issue? The pads are aftermarket items. Million thanks.
your caption at 4.45 said check brake fluid level, something that you did not do, maybe a link to that section?
I was trying to take the caliper out but it won't budge. I can see a piece of metal through the mid section of the caliper. I looks like a clip of some sort. is this what is preventing me from taking the caliper out? I didn't see it in the video.
This was a great video! One question: I have a 05 Volkswagen Jetta which I would assume would be comparable to what you just did. Using that C-Clamp, how far did you push the calliper down? Just enough to fit over the pads?
Push it in until it goes no further.
If I dont have that spring you mentioned at the end, would the car make clunking noises and stop clunking when you press the brakes
99 Infiniti g20
Also another tip is to put anti seize on where the pads slide so it slides smoothly and also easy for removal when its time for new one
Hi,....i have put new brakes up front (ceramic). I have noticed that there is a bit more dust on the rim on one side than the other. I have used a infrared thermometer to check the heat and I have noticed on driver's side the temperature rise an extra 5 degrees. Is that normal?
i have a 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t.....the issue im having is that when i start the car up when warn, it almost stall then goes back to its normal and the feels like it lost some power......and i have no check engine light.
what do u think the problem could be?
Could be your coil pact mate
is it safe to use copper anti seize on back of brake pad? is it safe on rubber piston boot?
is the grease and clamp part necessary? I don't have a clamp.
Thanks alot! Nice video!
This was very helpful for me
I don't have a torque wrench... Can I still do the job without it? And do you need to bleed the brakes?
I have a car daihatsu sirion SE 2008 1.3 M3 ,which brand brake pads are good for my car please?
Thanks for sharing this. Great video! Looking forward to getting to work on my 2004 Avalon.