Ive done this a few times, I think a good tip would be to remove the brake fluid cap and put a rag over the top of it. So when you push back the piston, you don't cause any damage to the servo. That way you relieve built up pressure. GREAT VIDEOS by the way :)
BEN...I JUST WANT TO TAKE A MINUTE TO SAY THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!! IT SHOWED ME HOW SIMPLE IT WAS TO REPLACE MY CAR'S BRAKE PADS THAT I FINALLY DID FOR THE FIRST TIME IN MY WHOLE LIFE. BEFORE FOR ME IT WAS REALLY IMPOSSIBLE,,I ALWAYS HAD TO PAY OR LOOK FOR HELP WITH MY FRIENDS..I REALLY APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO AND THE WORK YOU DO AND THE TIME YOU TAKE TO DO IT...THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is the rubber BOOT on the steering rack. The 'ears' of that so called 'dog' is the spring clip that holds the rubber boot on. It is not a 'dog', but from the end of that rubber boot, it looks sort of like a stuffed dog toy.
I believe the video was very well presented and accurate. The brake fluid issue is if you change the front and /or back brakes at different times you should change the fluid at that time and making it unnecessary to change the fluid again unless it is a few years between the front and back change, in that case change the fluid again. It is best though to change all the pads at the same time if it is possible. If you have never did your brakes before I recommend this one.
Here are a couple things to note. Make sure the master cylinder is not full when you press the piston back into the caliper or it will overflow. I find it better to place the old brake pad onto the piston before pressing it back into the caliper so you will have less chance of cracking the piston if you crank too hard on the c-clamp. Lastly, not all cars are set up to just press the piston back into the caliper. You need a special tool for some vehicles.
Did any one else spot the hidden dog in the video @4:19 also Awesome video. Great bit of explaining and demonstration. Also, I know lots of people think the safety side is silly but think it's great you are showing the best practice by having the gloves and glasses on.
I spent a couple of hours today just trying to unscrew the bolt with a lever... it's harder than it looks and especially since most people don't have the tools that he has
Thanks dude, as a guy who only knows how to replace tires and spark plugs, this was pretty easy to follow for someone like me who is nearly illiterate in the vocabulary of auto mechanics.
The only important thing that the video missed was watching brake fluid so that it does not overflow when compressing the piston with the c-clamp. If your reservoir is low enough this might not matter, but it's best to make sure this does not overflow, and also don't forget to top off the brake fluid after you're all done if you had to remove any to start with.
carol s it’s recommended it depends on how much you need to compress. It’s it’s a lot the yes remove the cap. If it’s a little it’s not really required
Think you have to pump the the breaks after the job to bring the pressure back up. I know little about cars. Just my input. On another note, I'm changing out my pads, how do I know my rotors also need replacing?
It is a good idea to pump the breaks afterwards. Your car will have a specific safe width for your rotors. If they have worn down too much, they will need replacing. You can normally tell if they're worn because they'll have a lip around the edge where the pads don't rub on it. Your best bet is to google the legal wear for your rotors and then measure them.
Great video, how would you recommend the home DIY change their breaks without access to a lift like you have in the video, would you suggest a simple jack or a set of 4 ramps?
It might but, some/most cars have rubber around the bolt (pins) meaning you should use silicone grease while others might only have metal and in that case you could use the same kind. They actually sell specific lubricants for brake calipers and brake jobs! You could always ask at the store for them.
Ben, I agree! I HATE doing drums. I wanted to add to how you compressed the plunger back into the caliper.....I use an old brake pad so the plunger stays flush. Im sure you already know this. Great vids
Lol this is from 8 years ago. But ya it helps but it also depends on how much it was compressed. If it’s only a little it not a big. If you need to compress a lot then yes remove the cap
@@kenkyuen What about opening the bleeder valve on the caliper when compressing pistons? I just did brakes on my bike and compressed the pistons without doing that, now my master cylinder won't pump fluid/brake lever fully depresses no matter how much I pump/can't even bleed the brakes so it doesn't appear to just be air in the lines (mc seems to be shot from all the crud when compressing pistons). I think I need a new master cylinder now 😑
Colton Barrett I don’t know bikes as much. But normally you open the cap to the master cylinder when you compress the piston. I guess you could open the bleeder valve to compress the piston but normally I pump the brakes to bleed them. Not sure exactly what’s wrong with your bike :(
@@kenkyuen okay well I appreciate the reply, I'm gonna go to a shop and ask them about it. As far as cars I've also heard those with ABS can be damaged by not doing the same thing though.
I had front break pads changed 2 days ago at an auto center. it seems not working smoothly. When I hit the breaks down to the end to completely stop the car, I heard a sound and feels the car shaking (once) at the time of stopping, especially when the car is stucked in the traffic, which requires frequently hitting and releasing the breaks. Please advise what could be the problem. Thank you so much.
This is great. Other than the sensor squealing, what is the rule of thumb for replacing pads (20,000 miles? 25,000?). Also - Can you do this with a regular tire jack, or do you need a lift to do it? Not much room with a jack, but would love to try to do this to save a few bucks
Great video. I have a question regarding a Mazda 3 2010. I recently had my breaks done, yet when we are driving slowly and we apply the breaks there is an embarrassing squeak that occurs. What could possibly be causing this if I just had them done. I know breaks need time to settle but it's been a month. We went back to the mechanic and he adjusted them but same result. Any advice?
If the rotors weren't replaced cleaned or resurfaced properly it can cause a squeak. Some times they'll forget to reinstall the retaining clips which help cut down on squeaking . It's also a possibility you got played. I've seen shops charge people for a job they never did or half assed.
if one of the dual piston is slightly leas compressed than the other one maybe by like 5mm will it make even contact once i pump my brakes during normal use?
As long as you didn't have to remove the brake line for any reason you shouldn't need to bleed. The fluid will rise in the master cylinder as you push the piston in, so you will probably want to open it up to make things easier. Also keep an eye on the fluid level as you can overflow it if you aren't careful. Suck some out with a turkey baster if you have to. Do inspect your brake lines while you're doing this, looking for cracking and leaks. If you need to replace them it's not a terrible job, but you'll need to bleed the system after. Also check the rubber boot around the piston. If you have to replace that you'll need to bleed, also.
Chico Swazi You're right but remember to do that before you crank the engine. Otherwise the pump will pump air in the lines and then the brakes will have to be bled.
@@anytowni6141 In, but not out. So, when you push the piston, the fluid in the reservoir will rise, compressing the air in the reservoir. If you have to push the piston in a great amount, the air in the reservoir will be compressed a lot and will resist the pushing of the piston. Since the reservoir doesn't let air out, you must loosen the cap on the reservoir so the air can escape.
This video is 11 years old now, but it still holds up pretty well. I wonder if the presenter's descendants will watch it someday to see what their great grandpa was like.
With gas prices going up and up and people switching to hybrid and electric cars I would love to see a video with maintenance tips. The other day I needed a jump for my car and I popped open my girlfriend's hybrid's hood only to see no battery to get a jump from. Can you make a video of simple things like how to safely clean under the hood of hybrid cars? Or a video on how to change the regenerative breaks? Thank you in advance.
An idea for a later episode, how to replace your rear drum brakes with discs. This is something I want to do one day and a video showing how would be very useful.
I usually add a little lube to the pad plate where it makes contact with the bracket that supports the ends. Some models are equipped with polished shims to reduce clearance and ease movement with out wearing the supporting bracket. The shims can usually be cleaned and re-used. I do not grease the bracket just the part of the pad plate that makes contact. Allowing the plate movement to spread the lubricant reduces the chance of the lubricant being pushed on to the rotor surface.
Hi i have camry if for some reason while putting back the sliding pin bolt original pin bolt rubber on the bottom accidentally reversed it what will happened? thanks :)
I was going to change my own brake pads to save myself some $$ ....after seeing this and hearing some terms Im going to pass 😂😂 Ok time to make a call to my mechanic I heard squeaking and squealing 2 days ago and Im over it 👌🏾
Hi,....i have put new brakes up front (ceramic). I have noticed that there is a bit more dust on the rim on one side than the other. I have used a infrared thermometer to check the heat and I have noticed on driver's side the temperature rise an extra 5 degrees. Is that normal?
I was trying to take the caliper out but it won't budge. I can see a piece of metal through the mid section of the caliper. I looks like a clip of some sort. is this what is preventing me from taking the caliper out? I didn't see it in the video.
watching this before heading to my dads auto shop to change my own brakes.... im a 47yr old grandmom fixin to fix my own brakes...pray i dont die when im done
i have a 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t.....the issue im having is that when i start the car up when warn, it almost stall then goes back to its normal and the feels like it lost some power......and i have no check engine light. what do u think the problem could be?
Hello. What type of grease were you using behind the brake pad? You dont use the grease that comes in the little packets? Also, is it only necessary to grease the "inside" caliper? I've always done both. And finally...what were you specifically referring to when you said that method is kinda a new thing they're doing.....using regular grease? I would appreciate any clarification. I do have one last concern, but I dont want to overdo it... LOL. I'll ask next time. Appreciate it!
Hey when u push the piston back to make space for new pads do u take the brake fluid cap off or not...thanks thz my first time doing my brakes.... i knw that whn u push back the piston oil go back to the container so i dont knw if u have take the cap off or not thanks
Hi mate, I have a ford fairmont BF 2005 5.4 I got my brake pads changed 3 months ago and then I realized that my rotors needs replacing too so I replaced the rotors today. I'm having a problem which is when I started driving the car after changing the rotors I can feel that the brakes are slightly hitting the pads at all the time and they are making noises as I'm driving, I tried testing the brakes but they are still making a lot of squeal as I am testing them. the noises are getting better a slowly tho, Is this a common thing?
Hey all, I am about to purchase a 2008 Ford Escape and the owner tells me the brake pads need to be replaced. I am considering replacing them myself but I need you guys help a bit. What is meant by bleeding the brakes? What is a caliber piston? How do I watch the break fluid, I do not want to cause serious damage to the ABS safety as another poster mentioned. Also, can I get all the parts and tools from my local Auto-Zone in order to replace it? I literally have no tools, but I know I want/need some because I am considering starting to do some of my own vehicle repairs.
Rule-of-thumb: Tighten until very snug (until you think it's tight), then tighten just a little more. This rule-of-thumb does not apply to engine bolts or any other kind of pressure vessel which you should use a torque wrench on.
I have a question, does it matter the type of car it is because my friend told me that it depends on what type of car it is? Also how much can i get brake pads and where can i usually get them at?
+brandon ralph your friend would be correct. Different vehicles have different brake calipers. In general, it can all be relatively the same set-up, however there are different size pads, anti-rattle clips, etc that can make procedures different than what you saw here. As for brake pad costs, I'm not entirely sure, but they shouldn't cost you more than $30. I have a 94 Ford Ranger and the pads for it were about $25.
Thank you for your video. As I was taking off my lug nuts I broke one of the bolts, and though it was an annoying and easy fix, I am having a terrible time putting in the new bolt. I think that I am going to have to break it again and start the fix again. Any suggestions? I drive a 2001 Honda Accord.
it depends on you. if you brake hard a lot you will need to change more offten. but you can check how thick your brakes are by poping your tire off and look at how thick your brake pads are.
A side note, remove the cap on the reservoir before compressing the caliper piston. When doing all four calipers, its a guarantee the fluid will pop the cap off.
How do mechanics at my dealership measure how much break pad I have left? I'm currently having mine replaced because the shop said they were down to 1mm and 2mm. I believe them, I was getting squealing and rumbling on high speed breaking. But it seems like getting TO the pads to measure them would be a whole ordeal - and it's hard to imagine mechanics taking these off just to measure and then put them back on every time they day a multipoint inspection. How does this usually work in a place like a dealership service shop where mechanics are doing multipoint inspections?
before attempting to push the piston back in its bore, open the bleed screw first. rust & sediment result as moisture accumulates in the brake fluid. some unknowing technicians will bottom out the piston in caliper bores without opening the bleed screw. this forces the sediment from low parts of the system back to the ABS and master cylinder. _according to this automechanic book i am reading right now.
Hi Ben, thanks for the video. When I depress the pedal, my left front brake makes clicking sound and some air releasing sound, at the same time my foot feel the pedal vibrate. It will suddenly pull to the right occasionally, or the pedal will stuck at its half way. If I depress the pedal harder, it will go down as usual. I did the following job already and it still has the problem: changed master cylinder / servo / vacuum hose / ABS pump / brake pad / changed rubber ring and groove for the piston and caliper and cleared the dried grease and (not change whole set caliper) / greased the pin and changed the pin groove / rotor / brake hose. The problem still here. Then I make visual inspection on the brake pad, it has plays between the pad "ears" and the rests laterally (about 1.5mm) and horizontally (about 2.5mm). Will these be the causes of the issue? The pads are aftermarket items. Million thanks.
Good video man. I do have a question for you. I brought a used ford falcon today and when driving home along the freeway i applied the brakes to discover there was a shudder back through the brake peddle and steering wheel, i believe it is because of the uneven surface of the rotors so i will be getting them machined flat. I will be taking the rotors off and putting them on my self. My question is, if i discover that there are relatively new brake pads will i still need to replace them?
Not really. It may take a few miles for the old pads to "seat" to the machined rotors. The shuddering can also be caused or exasperated by bad ball joints, bad wheel bearings, bad steering rack or some other front-end problem, so be sure to thoroughly inspect the entire front end.
Question on rotors - how can we decide whether they need replacement or not? My car's brake discs are slightly worn, it has gone few millimeters thinner on the contact area.
You can check its thickness with a micrometer and compare to the minimum thickness specified by the manufacturer, also check around to see if it's worn equally. My rotors are specified as 25mm new, 23mm minimum, so if yours have worn down "a few mm", they're probably below minimum. If you get any wobble in the steering wheel or vibration when braking, they might need changing too.
awesome vid. thank you so much. i am a diy guy on my car (no cash) so i will do my own breaks. but of course i don't want to risk my fam. so i appreciate the step by step show how.
When doing brake service (to renew or just stop brake noise), you must thoroughly clean then use an OE Approved install procedure. OE’s now recommend using brake soap & water to clean friction surfaces, scrubbing (not spraying) demagnetizes to release metal, oil & dirt. To reassemble, always apply OEM synthetic lubricants & rotor conditioning treatment. Learn more tips and this OE Approved Procedure, it extends life, eliminates noise & actually reduces stopping distance 5% plus... stopbrakenoise
It might be possible. You have to find one that fits. You might have to replace the callipers. It might not fit inside the wheel. Look for it at performance enhancements websites. As for improving performance, it might increase stopping power, but you still have the same tires and the same friction of the tires on the pavement, so you might not be able to actually stop more quickly.
good video, just a small bit of advice when compressing the piston, you should always try and use a piece of timber to protect the piston from the c clamp !
Ive done this a few times, I think a good tip would be to remove the brake fluid cap and put a rag over the top of it. So when you push back the piston, you don't cause any damage to the servo. That way you relieve built up pressure. GREAT VIDEOS by the way :)
BEN...I JUST WANT TO TAKE A MINUTE TO SAY THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!! IT SHOWED ME HOW SIMPLE IT WAS TO REPLACE MY CAR'S BRAKE PADS THAT I FINALLY DID FOR THE FIRST TIME IN MY WHOLE LIFE. BEFORE FOR ME IT WAS REALLY IMPOSSIBLE,,I ALWAYS HAD TO PAY OR LOOK FOR HELP WITH MY FRIENDS..I REALLY APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO AND THE WORK YOU DO AND THE TIME YOU TAKE TO DO IT...THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Slide pins should ONLY be lubricated with silicone grease, so as not to damage the rubber that surrounds them. You might want to note that.
this! use Silicone Paste or (Silicon Grease), it works with the rubber parts, otherwise normal grease might eat away at the rubber parts
Noted
Copper slip. Unless you plan on keeping the car for the next 50 years
Automotive Engineering student, finding this series really helpful with things I missed out on in class. Great work & thank you so much!!
how did your studies go?
Love seeing everyone coming here cause daddy didn't teach us lol
+SuperURBIN
My dad taught me. But I like checking multiple sources since different people do things slightly differently.
+Mooie Telebogen Agreee. ChrisFix method is also different
+SuperURBIN My Dad taught me too, but frankly, I don't trust that idiot.
+Shineymcshine79 lmao
no one teached me anything about cars im trying to learn so i can do myself
Anybody else see the dog above the breaks?!?!? Pause at 4:21 look I'
Lol
lol
That is the rubber BOOT on the steering rack. The 'ears' of that so called 'dog' is the spring clip that holds the rubber boot on. It is not a 'dog', but from the end of that rubber boot, it looks sort of like a stuffed dog toy.
Yeah it does look like it ha ha.
Damn...good eyes Dom!!!! That's a riot...LOLOL!
I believe the video was very well presented and accurate. The brake fluid issue is if you change the front and /or back brakes at different times you should change the fluid at that time and making it unnecessary to change the fluid again unless it is a few years between the front and back change, in that case change the fluid again. It is best though to change all the pads at the same time if it is possible. If you have never did your brakes before I recommend this one.
Here are a couple things to note. Make sure the master cylinder is not full when you press the piston back into the caliper or it will overflow. I find it better to place the old brake pad onto the piston before pressing it back into the caliper so you will have less chance of cracking the piston if you crank too hard on the c-clamp. Lastly, not all cars are set up to just press the piston back into the caliper. You need a special tool for some vehicles.
What do I do if the cylinder overflowed?
Did any one else spot the hidden dog in the video @4:19
also Awesome video. Great bit of explaining and demonstration. Also, I know lots of people think the safety side is silly but think it's great you are showing the best practice by having the gloves and glasses on.
Watched this, did the work myself on my 350z and saved over $1600 which is what Nissan wanted to charge me!! Thanks!
Spoiler alert: it’s harder than then they make it look on TH-cam.
Seem so too me as well
Barely...maybe to do both brake pads AND rotors, otherwise brake pads are pretty easy honestly
Actually it's pretty easy unless the bolts are tighter than a visit's fart
I spent a couple of hours today just trying to unscrew the bolt with a lever... it's harder than it looks and especially since most people don't have the tools that he has
It always is
Thanks dude, as a guy who only knows how to replace tires and spark plugs, this was pretty easy to follow for someone like me who is nearly illiterate in the vocabulary of auto mechanics.
Its amazing how physically fit you have to be just to do these jobs.I will definitely be taking the car to the garage for new brakes.
The only important thing that the video missed was watching brake fluid so that it does not overflow when compressing the piston with the c-clamp. If your reservoir is low enough this might not matter, but it's best to make sure this does not overflow, and also don't forget to top off the brake fluid after you're all done if you had to remove any to start with.
Nice, great reminders, and i liked that is was within a shorter video length of 6:24 Thanks!
Don't forget you have to take the cap off of your brake fluid reservoir or the caliper WILL NOT retract!
KRA3030 do you have to take that cap off every time you change your brakes?
carol s it’s recommended it depends on how much you need to compress. It’s it’s a lot the yes remove the cap. If it’s a little it’s not really required
This is a HUGE step he forgot to mention
My dad went to the store in Mexico. Thanks for the tutorial
im high and lost lol
Haha! Me too ;)
big money 😭😭😭😂
big money He make it look easy af om the video im struggling pulling this old ass caliber off
bruh! Like in the woods at night! Im too high for this shit
The only thing you need to remember is that the leg bone connects to the hip bone bro! LOL
Think you have to pump the the breaks after the job to bring the pressure back up. I know little about cars. Just my input.
On another note, I'm changing out my pads, how do I know my rotors also need replacing?
It is a good idea to pump the breaks afterwards. Your car will have a specific safe width for your rotors. If they have worn down too much, they will need replacing. You can normally tell if they're worn because they'll have a lip around the edge where the pads don't rub on it. Your best bet is to google the legal wear for your rotors and then measure them.
Awesome
perfect video, I’m a 10th grade auto tech student and i’m wanting to learn more about cars!
OMG ! :) This got to be the only brake-how-to on TH-cam that actually bothers with the proper torque spec for once :) Thumbs up for that!
Great video, how would you recommend the home DIY change their breaks without access to a lift like you have in the video, would you suggest a simple jack or a set of 4 ramps?
Was the grease you used all the same even for the pins and are the clips going to be the same on every car?
It might but, some/most cars have rubber around the bolt (pins) meaning you should use silicone grease while others might only have metal and in that case you could use the same kind. They actually sell specific lubricants for brake calipers and brake jobs! You could always ask at the store for them.
Edmary Rodríguez thank you
Ben, I agree! I HATE doing drums. I wanted to add to how you compressed the plunger back into the caliper.....I use an old brake pad so the plunger stays flush. Im sure you already know this.
Great vids
Really appreciate your patient and good teaching.... Kudos
I heard that it's always a good idea to remove the cap from the fluid reservoir before compressing the piston.
Lol this is from 8 years ago. But ya it helps but it also depends on how much it was compressed. If it’s only a little it not a big. If you need to compress a lot then yes remove the cap
@@kenkyuen What about opening the bleeder valve on the caliper when compressing pistons? I just did brakes on my bike and compressed the pistons without doing that, now my master cylinder won't pump fluid/brake lever fully depresses no matter how much I pump/can't even bleed the brakes so it doesn't appear to just be air in the lines (mc seems to be shot from all the crud when compressing pistons). I think I need a new master cylinder now 😑
Colton Barrett I don’t know bikes as much. But normally you open the cap to the master cylinder when you compress the piston. I guess you could open the bleeder valve to compress the piston but normally I pump the brakes to bleed them. Not sure exactly what’s wrong with your bike :(
@@kenkyuen okay well I appreciate the reply, I'm gonna go to a shop and ask them about it. As far as cars I've also heard those with ABS can be damaged by not doing the same thing though.
Colton Barrett ya you definitely don’t want to apply too much pressure in the brake system.
Did you have to open the master cylinder reservoir to release pressure when using the C Clamp to push the fluid back up?
Little did he know, “Hi I’m Ben” would become legendary
I had front break pads changed 2 days ago at an auto center. it seems not working smoothly. When I hit the breaks down to the end to completely stop the car, I heard a sound and feels the car shaking (once) at the time of stopping, especially when the car is stucked in the traffic, which requires frequently hitting and releasing the breaks. Please advise what could be the problem. Thank you so much.
my latino friend down the street does both front wheels for 25$ aint that something
Yup we usually do it very inexpensive or will accept a six pack.
nice, simple, good explanation, under budget, and good shots. Thanks
This is great. Other than the sensor squealing, what is the rule of thumb for replacing pads (20,000 miles? 25,000?).
Also - Can you do this with a regular tire jack, or do you need a lift to do it? Not much room with a jack, but would love to try to do this to save a few bucks
Great video. I have a question regarding a Mazda 3 2010. I recently had my breaks done, yet when we are driving slowly and we apply the breaks there is an embarrassing squeak that occurs. What could possibly be causing this if I just had them done. I know breaks need time to settle but it's been a month. We went back to the mechanic and he adjusted them but same result. Any advice?
If the rotors weren't replaced cleaned or resurfaced properly it can cause a squeak. Some times they'll forget to reinstall the retaining clips which help cut down on squeaking . It's also a possibility you got played. I've seen shops charge people for a job they never did or half assed.
Great video but I personally think it's important to let viewers know what type of grease to use for the pins.
if one of the dual piston is slightly leas compressed than the other one maybe by like 5mm will it make even contact once i pump my brakes during normal use?
So when you compressed the caliper, i noticed that you did not bleed the brake fluid. Is that not necassary on all cars? Or is older cars different?
Chico Swazi how would you be able to tell while putting them back on?
As long as you didn't have to remove the brake line for any reason you shouldn't need to bleed. The fluid will rise in the master cylinder as you push the piston in, so you will probably want to open it up to make things easier. Also keep an eye on the fluid level as you can overflow it if you aren't careful. Suck some out with a turkey baster if you have to.
Do inspect your brake lines while you're doing this, looking for cracking and leaks. If you need to replace them it's not a terrible job, but you'll need to bleed the system after. Also check the rubber boot around the piston. If you have to replace that you'll need to bleed, also.
Chico Swazi You're right but remember to do that before you crank the engine. Otherwise the pump will pump air in the lines and then the brakes will have to be bled.
I hear that you don'thave to remove the master cylinder cap when changing pads it lets air in ?
@@anytowni6141 In, but not out. So, when you push the piston, the fluid in the reservoir will rise, compressing the air in the reservoir. If you have to push the piston in a great amount, the air in the reservoir will be compressed a lot and will resist the pushing of the piston. Since the reservoir doesn't let air out, you must loosen the cap on the reservoir so the air can escape.
Good show. Many of us already know how to do this, but for the new enthusiast or DIY people out there, this is great!
Where do i have to look to get the right size for the pads , how tide they need to be ? For a specific model of Volkswagen. Thanks
I did everything you showed in the video, but now the breaks on m 2003 Buick Century don't work at all. What do I need to do?
This video is 11 years old now, but it still holds up pretty well. I wonder if the presenter's descendants will watch it someday to see what their great grandpa was like.
With gas prices going up and up and people switching to hybrid and electric cars I would love to see a video with maintenance tips. The other day I needed a jump for my car and I popped open my girlfriend's hybrid's hood only to see no battery to get a jump from. Can you make a video of simple things like how to safely clean under the hood of hybrid cars? Or a video on how to change the regenerative breaks?
Thank you in advance.
you have any tips for a 4Runner 1998 on how to change the brakes?
An idea for a later episode, how to replace your rear drum brakes with discs. This is something I want to do one day and a video showing how would be very useful.
I usually add a little lube to the pad plate where it makes contact with the bracket that supports the ends. Some models are equipped with polished shims to reduce clearance and ease movement with out wearing the supporting bracket. The shims can usually be cleaned and re-used. I do not grease the bracket just the part of the pad plate that makes contact. Allowing the plate movement to spread the lubricant reduces the chance of the lubricant being pushed on to the rotor surface.
after bleeding brakes and replacing brake booster and mastercyclinder what do you think that could cause my truck to not stop on a dime
Thank you!!!! I just saved myself a TON of money!!!!!! Turns out the brakes weren't worn down at all. But I would've never known if I hadn't checked!
Hi i have camry if for some reason while putting back the sliding pin bolt original pin bolt rubber on the bottom accidentally reversed it what will happened? thanks :)
I was going to change my own brake pads to save myself some $$ ....after seeing this and hearing some terms Im going to pass 😂😂 Ok time to make a call to my mechanic I heard squeaking and squealing 2 days ago and Im over it 👌🏾
Thanks for a great rundown on the procedure Ben. I'm going to have a crack at it and hopefully save some money
Hi,....i have put new brakes up front (ceramic). I have noticed that there is a bit more dust on the rim on one side than the other. I have used a infrared thermometer to check the heat and I have noticed on driver's side the temperature rise an extra 5 degrees. Is that normal?
I was trying to take the caliper out but it won't budge. I can see a piece of metal through the mid section of the caliper. I looks like a clip of some sort. is this what is preventing me from taking the caliper out? I didn't see it in the video.
Well done my friend very helpful information for whoever wants to change their car brake pads on their own...
watching this before heading to my dads auto shop to change my own brakes.... im a 47yr old grandmom fixin to fix my own brakes...pray i dont die when im done
i have a 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t.....the issue im having is that when i start the car up when warn, it almost stall then goes back to its normal and the feels like it lost some power......and i have no check engine light.
what do u think the problem could be?
Could be your coil pact mate
Hello. What type of grease were you using behind the brake pad? You dont use the grease that comes in the little packets? Also, is it only necessary to grease the "inside" caliper? I've always done both. And finally...what were you specifically referring to when you said that method is kinda a new thing they're doing.....using regular grease? I would appreciate any clarification.
I do have one last concern, but I dont want to overdo it... LOL. I'll ask next time. Appreciate it!
Cabin Boy is back!
Hello I have a question? The wire pin that you put at the end when youre all done. do all cars have that? Or it depends on the car?
Hey when u push the piston back to make space for new pads do u take the brake fluid cap off or not...thanks thz my first time doing my brakes.... i knw that whn u push back the piston oil go back to the container so i dont knw if u have take the cap off or not thanks
carlos ruvalcaba
Ed Barlow
your caption at 4.45 said check brake fluid level, something that you did not do, maybe a link to that section?
If I dont have that spring you mentioned at the end, would the car make clunking noises and stop clunking when you press the brakes
99 Infiniti g20
I would have liked seeing him remove the spring clip before the brake pads were removed or mentioning it, but all in all a great video ❤
is the grease and clamp part necessary? I don't have a clamp.
Hey man thanks. You saved me over $70! Only had to spend $30 for the pads.
Does this brake replacement work the same on a Chevy G20?
Hi mate, I have a ford fairmont BF 2005 5.4
I got my brake pads changed 3 months ago and then I realized that my rotors needs replacing too so I replaced the rotors today. I'm having a problem which is when I started driving the car after changing the rotors I can feel that the brakes are slightly hitting the pads at all the time and they are making noises as I'm driving, I tried testing the brakes but they are still making a lot of squeal as I am testing them. the noises are getting better a slowly tho, Is this a common thing?
Hey all, I am about to purchase a 2008 Ford Escape and the owner tells me the brake pads need to be replaced. I am considering replacing them myself but I need you guys help a bit. What is meant by bleeding the brakes? What is a caliber piston? How do I watch the break fluid, I do not want to cause serious damage to the ABS safety as another poster mentioned. Also, can I get all the parts and tools from my local Auto-Zone in order to replace it? I literally have no tools, but I know I want/need some because I am considering starting to do some of my own vehicle repairs.
How necessary is the torque wrench? That's the one tool I don't have and I'm wondering if it would be worth it to buy one for this job.
Mildly. Just make sure it's nice and tight. I've never used one for my calipers.
Rule-of-thumb: Tighten until very snug (until you think it's tight), then tighten just a little more. This rule-of-thumb does not apply to engine bolts or any other kind of pressure vessel which you should use a torque wrench on.
I have a question, does it matter the type of car it is because my friend told me that it depends on what type of car it is? Also how much can i get brake pads and where can i usually get them at?
+brandon ralph your friend would be correct. Different vehicles have different brake calipers. In general, it can all be relatively the same set-up, however there are different size pads, anti-rattle clips, etc that can make procedures different than what you saw here.
As for brake pad costs, I'm not entirely sure, but they shouldn't cost you more than $30. I have a 94 Ford Ranger and the pads for it were about $25.
I have a car daihatsu sirion SE 2008 1.3 M3 ,which brand brake pads are good for my car please?
I had someone do my pads and master cylinder (not a shop) and now the e-brake light stays on when I drive. Can you please help me figure this out?
Thank you for your video. As I was taking off my lug nuts I broke one of the bolts, and though it was an annoying and easy fix, I am having a terrible time putting in the new bolt. I think that I am going to have to break it again and start the fix again. Any suggestions? I drive a 2001 Honda Accord.
What torque do you recamend on a gmc 68 truck for front disk brakes also 30
is it safe to use copper anti seize on back of brake pad? is it safe on rubber piston boot?
Is there any flexible or adjustable "car part hanger" product, like a legit product used to do what the coat hanger does in this video or no?
Hi. I don't have a c clamp. What might the other alternatives on fastening the brake caliper?
+kevin E
Buy one bro. What kind of man doesn't have a c clamp?
how often should one change or check the brake fluid of the car
it depends on you. if you brake hard a lot you will need to change more offten. but you can check how thick your brakes are by poping your tire off and look at how thick your brake pads are.
If you remove the master cylinder cover it will relieve the pressure in the system making compressing the caliper pistons easier.
How often should you clean up the calipers (with piston and all)
Does the brake fluid cap have to off when pushing the piston back in
"And remember... always wear your safety glasses." Now go back and watch the video again. Oops :-)
Its it basically the same on every car? I'm working with a honda civic 2013
What brand is the High-Temp Brake Caliper Grease?
A side note, remove the cap on the reservoir before compressing the caliper piston. When doing all four calipers, its a guarantee the fluid will pop the cap off.
The brake fluid should not go back to the master cylinder it have to be bleed out when the piston is pushed in.
Carlos Rosario
Wrong !
First time watching one of your videos. Liked it and I am now a subscriber lol
How do mechanics at my dealership measure how much break pad I have left?
I'm currently having mine replaced because the shop said they were down to 1mm and 2mm. I believe them, I was getting squealing and rumbling on high speed breaking.
But it seems like getting TO the pads to measure them would be a whole ordeal - and it's hard to imagine mechanics taking these off just to measure and then put them back on every time they day a multipoint inspection.
How does this usually work in a place like a dealership service shop where mechanics are doing multipoint inspections?
the grease acts as a cushion between the back of the pad surface and the caliper piston and prevents vibration transfer that can lead to a squeal.
One of the best most precise videos I've seen on TH-cam. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK, I now have the confidence to do it myself.
before attempting to push the piston back in its bore, open the bleed screw first. rust & sediment result as moisture accumulates in the brake fluid. some unknowing technicians will bottom out the piston in caliper bores without opening the bleed screw. this forces the sediment from low parts of the system back to the ABS and master cylinder. _according to this automechanic book i am reading right now.
Should I put grease on back of both pads
I don't have a torque wrench... Can I still do the job without it? And do you need to bleed the brakes?
Hi Ben, thanks for the video. When I depress the pedal, my left front brake makes clicking sound and some air releasing sound, at the same time my foot feel the pedal vibrate. It will suddenly pull to the right occasionally, or the pedal will stuck at its half way. If I depress the pedal harder, it will go down as usual. I did the following job already and it still has the problem: changed master cylinder / servo / vacuum hose / ABS pump / brake pad / changed rubber ring and groove for the piston and caliper and cleared the dried grease and (not change whole set caliper) / greased the pin and changed the pin groove / rotor / brake hose. The problem still here. Then I make visual inspection on the brake pad, it has plays between the pad "ears" and the rests laterally (about 1.5mm) and horizontally (about 2.5mm). Will these be the causes of the issue? The pads are aftermarket items. Million thanks.
are there any difference in any make or model of car about the brake pad replacements procees
Good video man. I do have a question for you. I brought a used ford falcon today and when driving home along the freeway i applied the brakes to discover there was a shudder back through the brake peddle and steering wheel, i believe it is because of the uneven surface of the rotors so i will be getting them machined flat. I will be taking the rotors off and putting them on my self. My question is, if i discover that there are relatively new brake pads will i still need to replace them?
Not really. It may take a few miles for the old pads to "seat" to the machined rotors. The shuddering can also be caused or exasperated by bad ball joints, bad wheel bearings, bad steering rack or some other front-end problem, so be sure to thoroughly inspect the entire front end.
Question on rotors - how can we decide whether they need replacement or not? My car's brake discs are slightly worn, it has gone few millimeters thinner on the contact area.
You can check its thickness with a micrometer and compare to the minimum thickness specified by the manufacturer, also check around to see if it's worn equally. My rotors are specified as 25mm new, 23mm minimum, so if yours have worn down "a few mm", they're probably below minimum. If you get any wobble in the steering wheel or vibration when braking, they might need changing too.
if you check on your rotor with a micrometer it would give you the proper thickness of your rotors...
if u change rotor make sure u change the other side too
awesome vid. thank you so much. i am a diy guy on my car (no cash) so i will do my own breaks. but of course i don't want to risk my fam. so i appreciate the step by step show how.
When doing brake service (to renew or just stop brake noise), you must thoroughly clean then use an OE Approved install procedure. OE’s now recommend using brake soap & water to clean friction surfaces, scrubbing (not spraying) demagnetizes to release metal, oil & dirt. To reassemble, always apply OEM synthetic lubricants & rotor conditioning treatment. Learn more tips and this OE Approved Procedure, it extends life, eliminates noise & actually reduces stopping distance 5% plus... stopbrakenoise
Thanks for this, it made a huge difference when driving!
Is it possible to replace the rotors with a larger sized rotor? if yes, would that improve braking performance? thanks!
It might be possible. You have to find one that fits. You might have to replace the callipers. It might not fit inside the wheel. Look for it at performance enhancements websites. As for improving performance, it might increase stopping power, but you still have the same tires and the same friction of the tires on the pavement, so you might not be able to actually stop more quickly.
there is still much braking material on the old pads, is there any reason u replaced them?
good video, just a small bit of advice when compressing the piston, you should always try and use a piece of timber to protect the piston from the c clamp !
or you can use one of the old pads. The flat side of course