Thanks for sharing this! I'm getting ready to purchase a metal garage and your video helped me with the opener part of this design as well. Great idea!
Thanks for this! We have a steel garage and it was not cheap at all. But wehave so much space and so much overhead space. I’ve been trying to find a solution for this for a gift to my husband. $100 is awesome. Just have to find someone who can do it and without him knowing. I know he will love this, I’m going to look into this now.
you rock man I'm about to start my whole metal garage project and looking for tips and tricks and this sir is next level. saved me tons in cool choices I was kind of backed into the wall about.
Thanks it’s getting there! I just added a pull down air hose reel, then my compressor died. Getting ready to hook up a backup that I’ve had for 25 years. Maybe time for a new compressor.
Not sure if this has been mentioned already in the comments, but besides doing insulation (to make it quieter) you can replace with a belt drive model garage door opener.
Dude ur a freaking genius...how did you think of that option...thats awesome wow! I'm planning on going with that garage in a few months and found this opener at HD for $59.00 2 days ago..thinking I wouldn't be able to use it...but thanks to u I know I can do what u did!
I did the same thing with my 16 x 10 roll up, used the Chamberlain 1 1/4 hp belt drive. The noise I hear from mine is the door skin settling in as it rolls up.
So far, so good. It’s lifting from the bottom corner of the door so it’s a bit wonky but it does work. The opener comes with the 8’ track so you need the 10’ track kit. From there I used a section of the 8’ track as a bar that I bolted to the bottom edge of the door, added a 3/8” eye bolt and connected the opener with an S link.
One board gets one screw into upright support at 5 ft intervals. Then add construction adhesive to tongue and groove. Next board “floats”. Screw every other board. Lightweight but strong enough to hold stuff. Ceiling gets 5 ft sections of corrugated metal slid into existing channels in ceiling supports.
Mount one center of each door with a 90 back to the bottom frame you have it attached to, just got the idea from your video, also I only have a single door
Honestly, having thought it through, the guide bar would be smack in the middle of the doorway, smh, good though tho, I'm now wondering if it'd just be better to fabricate a mount to lift from the middle but in the configuration you have
Definitely going to do this to my dads shop, I have a question though. Does this eliminate the need for the standard locks? Can you still overcome the motor and open the doors by hand or is there a lockout so the doors won't budge unless it's powered by the motor? I couldn't see the point if he had to get out of his car, unlock both doors, then hit the opener once he's back in the car.
We decided on a metal garage. After adding all the features we wanted/needed, it was $10k. Maybe people think metal garages are just cheap pieces of junk. Would they really blow $10k for a piece of useless, problematic piece of crap? Doubtful! Oh, and that doesn't even include the concrete slab, BTW, which is several thousand more... Your setup is GENIUS for a double door, mounting the opener track in the middle. Do you think an inexpensive opener system would work along one side for a single door that's 11 feet tall X 10 feet wide? We need an extra tall door for our van that needs at least 10 feet clearance due to the 6" build up of asphalt "bump" where the concrete slab meets the driveway asphalt.
I think there is enough power to open one door but you will need to figure out the bottom support bar that lifts the door. If it’s not strong it may bind and not lift straight up. Thanks for the comments, love my garage.
The DIY kits from Versatube cost around $18.60 per s.f. for the building she’ll only and completely fire proof and termite proof. Spray foam the the interior of the shell with 2” the. XPS foam stops the condensation and also makes the building sound proof.
I have three doors one is separated by a walk in door. So I can see I can do two door the way you did but could I operate a single door the same way? Or would it be hard to keep that chain level?
You would probably need one separate opener for each door. Smallest available works. It’s a lot cheaper than the jack shaft openers, about 1/4 of the cost. With 3 doors you would need a double plug outlets in the middle for power, or wire separate plugs. I wired my entire shop off TH-cam videos and asking my electrician brother in law. Hope this helps.
Is that the style garage door that doesn't come with a chain pulley set-up that you have to manually push up with your hands like at storage facilities?
what kind of insulation did you use for your building? I just had a 22x26 double 9x7 garage door building in and want to insulate before winter hit later this year.
I used the 4x8 foam boards that are available at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Then the walls are covered with tongue and groove. This leaves an air pocket. I’m running a 5000 btu small window ac unit and it stays about 76 degrees!
Brother can you lend me a hand? I have a 10x10roll up door and I’m wanting to use the new roll up style that you used on your 3rd door. Do you mind making a video to show the measurements of that opener and how long the shaft needs to be to go into the opener? Also, my shaft doesn’t spin, does you’re?
Seriously considering metal instead of stick due to price. Have seen a few videos on this opener method. I would only question over time does that create an issue with balance as the bar on bottom of doors is not centered and the force you may throw it off? Maybe those doors are light enough that it does not matter. Don't know just a thought. Think you said 2 years.
remember the roll up door is spring loaded, I open and close my door by hand. It takes off and I got to slow it down with the catch rope. The door opener spring takes all of the weight. The opener should not have any problem with the pull.
How is this holding up? Any dangers or hazards with the chain and where it’s located? And do you have a list of everything you bought to make this work? I need to do the same thing.
Still working perfect! I bought a 99.00 opener from lowes, a 3-4 ft section of boxed steel tubing (the ones with holes in it every few inches) and a fairly heavy I bolt that was long enough to screw through the steel tube stock. Assorted bolts to attach the steel bar to the garage doors and the wall of the garage. If I remember I used some scrap 2x4 and lag bolts for that.
Do you remember the model of that opener? Is it chain or belt drive? Did you have to by an extension to reach the floor or did it come with enough track out of the box?
If they are roll up doors yes, I’m spanning almost that much distance myself and it works fine. This mounting probably won’t work on a regular garage door, just roll up.
I sell these type of buildings and I have garages I've sold that look like crap and I've got some that look like Nascar garages it's all what you want to put into them You are correct on staying on the sizes offered on the brochure these garage builders make a living by building them fast and efficiently so anything outside of the standard sizes does slow them down and cost more in the end I'm impressed by the one opener for two doors great idea
Yes, we’ll sort of, I added the foam insulation boards behind the wood boards. I run a 5000 btu window ac and it keeps it in the 70’s if you crank it up early in the day, if you wait and turn it on late it’s about 85 degrees. I shot some panels yesterday with my heat gun, the roof was 130 bare metal and 92 on back of insulation board’s. I’m not done yet, adding corrugated metal to ceiling panels. Come check it out sometime, I’m near the dirt track in Gastonia/Lake Wylie area.
I have a 3/4hp Chamberlain mounted like how you did yours in my two car metal garage and when the doors get to the bottom they come back up. It’s like the opener things the doors have hit something and as a safety measure it goes back up. Any idea how to fix this or what I could be doing wrong?
You should have an adjustment for the sensitivity for the bottom stop, all openers have it as a safety measure. Make the adjustment less sensitive. Usually you set it with a roll of paper towels under door to return so it doesn’t crush someone or something, but it’s sounds like it’s on the lightest setting.
Not sure why you would need wheels and rails. The only structural issue I have seen is some flexing of the bottom of the door where the crossbar is mounted. I feel like I could add reinforcements there. I have had condensation in the past but not since I added the foam board insulation.
I used the foam board sheets between the wall and ceiling before applying the wood or metal wall covering. You could do the same with Sheetrock. It’s only about an R-12 insulation rating but it works. The metal building can retain a lot of heat if you don’t have some sort of insulation barrier. Good luck!
I bought a Vevor roll up garage door opener. I didn’t take into account that the shaft was too short to attach the opener to. Can you supply me with the instructions on how to duplicate how you rigged up your opener ?
My rollup door keeps catching in different places making the door opener stop back up and act erratic how do I smooth the ride of this rollup door? Any ideas?
Mike, thanks for the offer. I gave up and quit the club and sold all my planes after a long time club member stole 3 of my planes and sold them to other club members. Ruined the hobby for me.
As a garage door installer and repair man, just because you can do something. Doesn't mean you should . Openers for those doors are not that expensive anymore. Having that Opener raise 2 doors you need to have pressure sensitivity probably maxed , so if it comes down on something , you're gonna tear something up.
Thank you. I just a 24x24 steel garage. I was going to go the expensive route. There is a special place in heaven. Waiting for you.
Lol, thanks. Best of luck with your project, love mine, gets better every time I add more stuff.
Thanks for sharing this! I'm getting ready to purchase a metal garage and your video helped me with the opener part of this design as well. Great idea!
Thanks for this! We have a steel garage and it was not cheap at all. But wehave so much space and so much overhead space. I’ve been trying to find a solution for this for a gift to my husband. $100 is awesome. Just have to find someone who can do it and without him knowing. I know he will love this, I’m going to look into this now.
you rock man I'm about to start my whole metal garage project and looking for tips and tricks and this sir is next level. saved me tons in cool choices I was kind of backed into the wall about.
Nice! Mine is still a work in progress, I save it for winter and work on the cars and bikes when it’s warm! Glad I gave some inspiration.
Neat idea making those garage doors. I like the pine, gives it a nice feel. That garage is official.
Thanks it’s getting there! I just added a pull down air hose reel, then my compressor died. Getting ready to hook up a backup that I’ve had for 25 years. Maybe time for a new compressor.
I'm with ya DG, I customized my steel building garage. Wouldn't have any other type! Nice garage btw!!!!
Thanks Jim, still a work in progress. New garage video coming this week on the walls and insulation.
I just got a 22x22 put up at my new house I built a stick built at my old one and you're correct the cost savings is a no brainer
I’ve done both. But my new garage is better overall than my stick built ever was. Of course I’m older now and making it better.
This was awesome.
brilliant solution 👍
Thanks!
Great Idea!!!
Thank you
I agree I love mines have had the carport s over me and moved and decided to do two bay garage your the man and everything looks great
Thanks!
This is truly genius
Ingenious solution.
I wonder how well it would work with only one door attached.
It would work fine with one door. I should have used a longer bar on the bottom edge.
Rock star!
Not sure if this has been mentioned already in the comments, but besides doing insulation (to make it quieter) you can replace with a belt drive model garage door opener.
Great idea!
Legend!
I just looked at this great idea, Just needed to know the horsepower for the garage door opener, to open two doors at the same time
The .5 horsepower chamberlain but without the WiFi option. Lowe’s has it for 99.00.
Dude ur a freaking genius...how did you think of that option...thats awesome wow! I'm planning on going with that garage in a few months and found this opener at HD for $59.00
2 days ago..thinking I wouldn't be able to use it...but thanks to u I know I can do what u did!
Thanks, glad to help. Keep me posted on how it works out for you!
I did the same thing with my 16 x 10 roll up, used the Chamberlain 1 1/4 hp belt drive. The noise I hear from mine is the door skin settling in as it rolls up.
I've been trying to find someone who has done this with this size door. Any issues opening?
So far, so good. It’s lifting from the bottom corner of the door so it’s a bit wonky but it does work. The opener comes with the 8’ track so you need the 10’ track kit. From there I used a section of the 8’ track as a bar that I bolted to the bottom edge of the door, added a 3/8” eye bolt and connected the opener with an S link.
That's a cool idea! How did you mount your insulated boards?
One board gets one screw into upright support at 5 ft intervals. Then add construction adhesive to tongue and groove. Next board “floats”. Screw every other board. Lightweight but strong enough to hold stuff. Ceiling gets 5 ft sections of corrugated metal slid into existing channels in ceiling supports.
The steel building suppliers should offer this, along with seals around the perimeter.
Mount one center of each door with a 90 back to the bottom frame you have it attached to, just got the idea from your video, also I only have a single door
If it can clear the door rolled up
Honestly, having thought it through, the guide bar would be smack in the middle of the doorway, smh, good though tho, I'm now wondering if it'd just be better to fabricate a mount to lift from the middle but in the configuration you have
Chamberlain is the sister company. Same stuff. Done this industry for 16+ yrs.
genius!
Definitely going to do this to my dads shop, I have a question though. Does this eliminate the need for the standard locks? Can you still overcome the motor and open the doors by hand or is there a lockout so the doors won't budge unless it's powered by the motor? I couldn't see the point if he had to get out of his car, unlock both doors, then hit the opener once he's back in the car.
I’ve never tried to over ride the motor and gain entry, seems secure to me. I have a remote control when I’m driving in and out.
We decided on a metal garage. After adding all the features we wanted/needed, it was $10k. Maybe people think metal garages are just cheap pieces of junk. Would they really blow $10k for a piece of useless, problematic piece of crap? Doubtful! Oh, and that doesn't even include the concrete slab, BTW, which is several thousand more... Your setup is GENIUS for a double door, mounting the opener track in the middle. Do you think an inexpensive opener system would work along one side for a single door that's 11 feet tall X 10 feet wide? We need an extra tall door for our van that needs at least 10 feet clearance due to the 6" build up of asphalt "bump" where the concrete slab meets the driveway asphalt.
I think there is enough power to open one door but you will need to figure out the bottom support bar that lifts the door. If it’s not strong it may bind and not lift straight up. Thanks for the comments, love my garage.
The DIY kits from Versatube cost around $18.60 per s.f. for the building she’ll only and completely fire proof and termite proof. Spray foam the the interior of the shell with 2” the. XPS foam stops the condensation and also makes the building sound proof.
Great advice! I’ve stopped the majority of the condensation with foam insulation boards and corrugated metal over it but it’s also added weight.
I have three doors one is separated by a walk in door. So I can see I can do two door the way you did but could I operate a single door the same way? Or would it be hard to keep that chain level?
You would probably need one separate opener for each door. Smallest available works. It’s a lot cheaper than the jack shaft openers, about 1/4 of the cost. With 3 doors you would need a double plug outlets in the middle for power, or wire separate plugs. I wired my entire shop off TH-cam videos and asking my electrician brother in law. Hope this helps.
Is that the style garage door that doesn't come with a chain pulley set-up that you have to manually push up with your hands like at storage facilities?
Yes but I have 2 buildings (3doors) and I haven’t had a problem.
Did you have to order extension rails for the opener or did the standard rails work for it
Standard 99.00 opener from Lowe’s
what kind of insulation did you use for your building? I just had a 22x26 double 9x7 garage door building in and want to insulate before winter hit later this year.
I used the 4x8 foam boards that are available at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Then the walls are covered with tongue and groove. This leaves an air pocket. I’m running a 5000 btu small window ac unit and it stays about 76 degrees!
Thanks for your service! Army veteran here.
Brother can you lend me a hand? I have a 10x10roll up door and I’m wanting to use the new roll up style that you used on your 3rd door. Do you mind making a video to show the measurements of that opener and how long the shaft needs to be to go into the opener? Also, my shaft doesn’t spin, does you’re?
I can , but not sure it would help since my opener is not attached to the shaft and I don’t have a 3rd door.
Seriously considering metal instead of stick due to price. Have seen a few videos on this opener method. I would only question over time does that create an issue with balance as the bar on bottom of doors is not centered and the force you may throw it off? Maybe those doors are light enough that it does not matter. Don't know just a thought. Think you said 2 years.
I think they are light enough, inexpensive and I don’t open them on a daily basis. I plan on them lasting the rest of my life, but I’m almost retired.
remember the roll up door is spring loaded, I open and close my door by hand. It takes off and I got to slow it down with the catch rope. The door opener spring takes all of the weight. The opener should not have any problem with the pull.
How is this holding up? Any dangers or hazards with the chain and where it’s located? And do you have a list of everything you bought to make this work? I need to do the same thing.
Still working perfect! I bought a 99.00 opener from lowes, a 3-4 ft section of boxed steel tubing (the ones with holes in it every few inches) and a fairly heavy I bolt that was long enough to screw through the steel tube stock. Assorted bolts to attach the steel bar to the garage doors and the wall of the garage. If I remember I used some scrap 2x4 and lag bolts for that.
Do you remember the model of that opener? Is it chain or belt drive? Did you have to by an extension to reach the floor or did it come with enough track out of the box?
Hey bud, will it work on two 10X10 garage doors?
If they are roll up doors yes, I’m spanning almost that much distance myself and it works fine. This mounting probably won’t work on a regular garage door, just roll up.
So the 7ft rail worked with 8ft doors?? Looking at doing this to my metal building with 8ft doors
Not sure exactly what you are asking? Used whatever came with a standard garage opener. Still have room at the top for more travel if needed.
I sell these type of buildings and I have garages I've sold that look like crap and I've got some that look like Nascar garages it's all what you want to put into them
You are correct on staying on the sizes offered on the brochure these garage builders make a living by building them fast and efficiently so anything outside of the standard sizes does slow them down and cost more in the end
I'm impressed by the one opener for two doors great idea
I’m in Mecklenburg county just north of you. Is your garage insulated?
Yes, we’ll sort of, I added the foam insulation boards behind the wood boards. I run a 5000 btu window ac and it keeps it in the 70’s if you crank it up early in the day, if you wait and turn it on late it’s about 85 degrees. I shot some panels yesterday with my heat gun, the roof was 130 bare metal and 92 on back of insulation board’s. I’m not done yet, adding corrugated metal to ceiling panels. Come check it out sometime, I’m near the dirt track in Gastonia/Lake Wylie area.
Was it just a standard opener or did you add the extra foot for the 8 foot door
Standard worked fine. My side walls are 9ft, doors are 7ft
I have a 3/4hp Chamberlain mounted like how you did yours in my two car metal garage and when the doors get to the bottom they come back up. It’s like the opener things the doors have hit something and as a safety measure it goes back up. Any idea how to fix this or what I could be doing wrong?
You should have an adjustment for the sensitivity for the bottom stop, all openers have it as a safety measure. Make the adjustment less sensitive. Usually you set it with a roll of paper towels under door to return so it doesn’t crush someone or something, but it’s sounds like it’s on the lightest setting.
@@gggarageVW69 did you have to adjust the tension on your door springs or do you know how to?
I'm wondering if you could put small wheels that would run on the rails. Any problem with condensation?
Not sure why you would need wheels and rails. The only structural issue I have seen is some flexing of the bottom of the door where the crossbar is mounted. I feel like I could add reinforcements there. I have had condensation in the past but not since I added the foam board insulation.
@@gggarageVW69 Good to know about the foam board. I have the same garage company, Eagle Carports.
To get ac in there did you insulate your garage? I’m in Florida and it would be pointless without insulation
I used the foam board sheets between the wall and ceiling before applying the wood or metal wall covering. You could do the same with Sheetrock. It’s only about an R-12 insulation rating but it works. The metal building can retain a lot of heat if you don’t have some sort of insulation barrier. Good luck!
Hey, do you have a big gap above the roll up doors ? Thank you
Yes, in the winter and on the bottom door seal I use foam pipe insulation from Lowe’s
Who built your garage? What company ? Thinking of going with a steel building in near future thanks in advance
Eagle garage, lots of distributors, I used a local one here in town. Look up eagle garage for your local installer.
I bought a Vevor roll up garage door opener.
I didn’t take into account that the shaft was too short to attach the opener to.
Can you supply me with the instructions on how to duplicate how you rigged up your opener ?
Cheap 99.00 opener, a piece of L steel, square steel and a handful of nuts bolts and washers.
Can you just have them leave the opening and put your own standard garage doors in?
Yes. You would need to add a header for the spring.
The belt driving model opener is a lot quieter
I agree, and I’m sure it would work fine. I went for the 99 dollar special.
Do you have springs in your roll up doors? I got mine without springs!
Yes they are standard roll up doors with internal springs inside drums. Works with low hp garage door opener.
It keeps the doors locked basically to where nobody can lift them for theft right?
That's what I wanted to know. This is a great idea. Just want to know about the security aspect.
Yes locks the chain just like any other garage door. Pull the rope to disengage.
Yes just like any other garage door.
Ok thats what I figured. Thanks man
My rollup door keeps catching in different places making the door opener stop back up and act erratic how do I smooth the ride of this rollup door? Any ideas?
All openers have adjustments for sensitivity and closing force, maybe google the manufacturer operators manual.
@@gggarageVW69 thanks I got it working but I will need to adjust how high it goes and down position. It’s been a challenge LOL
what horsepower did you use?
It’s a 99.00 Lowe’s special, I think it was a 1/2 horsepower. It doesn’t take much on these doors to open.
Nice Ideal but you have to open both doors every time you want a door open. Now you can get roll-up door openers for under $200.00.
Send me a link
What state are you in
NC
How did you mount/attach the end of the rail to the shop floor?
Send me an email address and I’ll take a picture, but I’m away on vacation until the weekend.
The end of the rail is on the bottom wall frame support, not the floor. Just use the same wall mount that comes in the kit.
@@gggarageVW69 nolasalt@charter.net. Appreciate it and enjoy your vacation.
York County fliers in SC!!? Interested in a flying partner? 15 min from airport!!
Mike, thanks for the offer. I gave up and quit the club and sold all my planes after a long time club member stole 3 of my planes and sold them to other club members. Ruined the hobby for me.
There's nothing in your decription.
Which video, the garage door opener has a description?
As a garage door installer and repair man, just because you can do something. Doesn't mean you should . Openers for those doors are not that expensive anymore. Having that Opener raise 2 doors you need to have pressure sensitivity probably maxed , so if it comes down on something , you're gonna tear something up.
What openers do you recommend for a 10x10 roll up?
Had to cost a fortune
Nope, a hundred
TOOOO much face