Kristian, Thank you for your video! After viewing several rollup door automation installation videos, I thought your technique would work best for us. The structural pipe and fittings used at the base of the door set it away enough to get around the vertical tract. Plus the pipe serves as a nice handle if I want to raise the door from the inside manually after disengaging the trolley. Since our door is only 8' high I had to bolt the header bracket to the front of the floor mount building rail instead of the top like you did with yours. This was to prevent the motor with opener rail from hitting the ceiling. Anyway, Thanks again for posting this method and saving me from rigging something up with square tube or slotted angle.
What kind of bolt did you use to fasten to the pipe hangers to the doors? Was it a self tapping one that went through to the other side or a bolt with a nut on the other side
This video was just what I needed to complete my install. I know you aren't a garage door guy, but do you have any idea why my door goes up crooked when using the opener?
Did this exactly for only one side, using 3/4" pipe and rail brackets (pipe slides right in). Got it exactly centered and plumb. Problem is because it pulls up, with greatest pressure on one side, it lifts that side a bit higher so that no matter what you do it rolls up unevenly and binds up. Worried it would break the door so I have to figure a solution or take it out. Spent 3 days on it already. Thinking maybe the black transition piece is not working for me. may need a different option. Any ideas?
Hey Peter, how long is your pipe accross the base. I’m thinking it needs to be long enough to reach past mid door. But I can see how a smaller single door may have that issue.
Looks like there’s a replacement model for the one you used and for some reason it cost more to get the model being phased out wonder if there would be any issue with the new model?
Are your doors 10ft wide by 10ft high ? I'm wondering if you really need to go with a 1 1/4 horse power motor or if you can get by with a 3/4hp motor ?
@Kristian Stewart dose it seem over kill for that big of a motor im going to hace 2 doors that are 10×10ft was thinking 3/4hp for both would be fine what do you think ?
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Kristian, Thank you for your video! After viewing several rollup door automation installation videos, I thought your technique would work best for us. The structural pipe and fittings used at the base of the door set it away enough to get around the vertical tract. Plus the pipe serves as a nice handle if I want to raise the door from the inside manually after disengaging the trolley.
Since our door is only 8' high I had to bolt the header bracket to the front of the floor mount building rail instead of the top like you did with yours. This was to prevent the motor with opener rail from hitting the ceiling. Anyway, Thanks again for posting this method and saving me from rigging something up with square tube or slotted angle.
Very good, I like the sliding bar!!! I will start sourcing the parts!!!
Thank you. Best video on this I’ve seen.
Trying to get to do mine now. Problem on the door going down it wants to flex at that lower part and it binds against the rail.
Did you have to buy the extension kit for the opener, my doors are 10x10.
What about the sensors? Did you use them? I’m trying to do the same configuration.
Having trouble finding the transition pieces and the plumbing brackets at Lowes. If possible could you give me a correct name or part number. Thanks
Great Idea. Wasn't sure what you used the L channel for? Any Idea what your brackets are called?
What kind of bolt did you use to fasten to the pipe hangers to the doors? Was it a self tapping one that went through to the other side or a bolt with a nut on the other side
I actually used the existing bolts from the slide locks on the metal door. Bolt/nut/washer
Well done!
This video was just what I needed to complete my install. I know you aren't a garage door guy, but do you have any idea why my door goes up crooked when using the opener?
Did this exactly for only one side, using 3/4" pipe and rail brackets (pipe slides right in). Got it exactly centered and plumb. Problem is because it pulls up, with greatest pressure on one side, it lifts that side a bit higher so that no matter what you do it rolls up unevenly and binds up. Worried it would break the door so I have to figure a solution or take it out. Spent 3 days on it already. Thinking maybe the black transition piece is not working for me. may need a different option. Any ideas?
Hey Peter, how long is your pipe accross the base. I’m thinking it needs to be long enough to reach past mid door. But I can see how a smaller single door may have that issue.
did you have to buy exstinons for 10ft
Why not get an opener made for these doors ? 😅
Looks like there’s a replacement model for the one you used and for some reason it cost more to get the model being phased out wonder if there would be any issue with the new model?
Any horizontal unit should work.
Did you have to buy extension kit do you have names of brackets that was used on doors
No extension kit on 8ft high doors. Mine are 8x10
Ok i thought they was 10x10
You by chance have name of brackets used on garage door. Very nice video
I will measure everything and look it up today and post the item#
good job
Are your doors 10ft wide by 10ft high ? I'm wondering if you really need to go with a 1 1/4 horse power motor or if you can get by with a 3/4hp motor ?
These are 10x8 doors.
@Kristian Stewart dose it seem over kill for that big of a motor im going to hace 2 doors that are 10×10ft was thinking 3/4hp for both would be fine what do you think ?
How long it the pipe going from door to door
Where did you get the unit?
In the description, Amazon.
Look good. Do you have to bypass the saftey eyes for this setup to work?
No sir all features work correctly. Mount the safety sensors at base of rails. They will clip right on.