Very clean! Our systems look pretty similar :) I'm getting loads of ideas from this!! Love the guide plates and fw/aft stops! What I did for the roll RTC was put a giant arm above it attached to the pitch arm that keeps it lifted up in the center. Super awesome to see!!!
I know it's been a while, and you've already probably fixed the centering issue, but you could always put a rubber bands or springs on either side of the top bracket to help re-center the yokes. Do you have plans or print files anywhere for this? It's actually a pretty neat design! I was thinking of using hardware to attach to my Alpha Flight yoke and just put it in the center between the two yokes. Honest, this looks much easier and better than taking apart and drilling into a $400 piece of gear. Hah!
HI mate. Thanks for the feedback. Yes have tried using bands and varying springs but unfortunately not that easy to accurately get back to dead centre. Something on my future wish list to address. ...On the subject of the print files. What specifically are you thinking of? I assume the mechanical linkage arm and clamp setup?? If so, join my discord and I can see if I can help you out.........discord.gg/qc2VygKxWY
It occurs to me that the swingarm system you've implemented may more accurately emulate the non-linear nature of mechanical pitch control input than the "rack & pinion" style I've seen in other home cockpits. Nicely done.
thanks mate. I did contemplate rack and pinion in my early design concepts, but landed on this. Future project though is to get the self-centre to work properly. Not functioning the best which does make trimming out a tad difficult....
I'm sure you've solved your roll centering by now - but if not..a suggestion. How about a spring on either side of that cross bar. Install a stand on the other side of the cross bar - level with the cross-bar attach one end to the stand and the other to the cross bar. The cross bar should roll back to the center.
thanks mate for the feedback and appreciate you tuning in. Whilst I havent fully implemented the solution yet, I intend to use heavy duty rubber bands (simple but they are effective), pick up on the crossbar as you highlight, but tie back to the existing main frame (untreated pine you see) on either side. I reckon this will do the trick. Will ket everyone know how this goes once I get it done.
Is that blue shaft mount also 3d printed? Looks similar to what I've found online labeled as a "pillow block bearing" though I have no idea what those are normally used for.
Hi mate, No this is a purchased item (cast steel with insert bearing) and is typically used for shafts in industrial applications. They are relatively cheap to buy (w/- bearing) and I would recommend doing that rather than 3d printing these. Having said that, if you have a 3D printer and a design at hand, perhaps give it a try. If it breaks, then you know you need to go out and buy one or two depending on whether dual controlling or not......hope this helps.
The rudder pedals are a little more complex given the toe brakes if you want true dual control. I rarely get anyone in the co-pilot seat and visually, the 2nd yoke moving looks pretty cool I think.....thanks for tuning in.
Hey mate, just wondering if you use any hall effect sensors or only potentiometers? Also, is your yoke noticeably better than the standard Saitek one (I mean apart from centering mods)? Loving your videos thanks.
Hi and thanks for tuning in. I am using standard rotary potentiometers for the yoke (pitch and roll), and linear potentiometers for the throttle / mixture. With regards to the Yoke, I have pretty much stripped it down to just the yoke handle (Saitek) only. From there everything is custom. New aluminum shafts, and push to talk button switch on rear of left hand side. No doubt a Yoko yoke or something similar would do a better job, but in all honesty, I find my setup to work really well. Check out Captain Bob's channel as well in this regard as he has done something similar to me.
thanks for the feedback and appreciate your sub and tuning in. I actually havent done anything with the 3d parts as of yet, but perhaps should consider a post to Thingiverse or something?
@@CessSim That would be awesome. My limited mechanical inclinations have made me seek a design like this. I've been doing lots of research recently trying to find inspiration for the best dual-yoke setup and yours looks very functional. I am a little weary of the wear on the rubber bands and potentially dry-rotting but that seems easily fixable with the right expansion spring and spring constant.
@@kpjVideo happy to share. To be honest I tried springs before and I prefer the bands. They are very cheap to buy and I swap them out every couple of .months. Not an issue, quick to do and as I said they are cheap and noise free.....
thanks for the feedback. Whilst the bands are fairly crude, they work better than springs IMO. Have you done this with motors or know of someone that has?
Very clean! Our systems look pretty similar :) I'm getting loads of ideas from this!! Love the guide plates and fw/aft stops! What I did for the roll RTC was put a giant arm above it attached to the pitch arm that keeps it lifted up in the center.
Super awesome to see!!!
Captain bob my son. my genius friend.
I know it's been a while, and you've already probably fixed the centering issue, but you could always put a rubber bands or springs
on either side of the top bracket to help re-center the yokes.
Do you have plans or print files anywhere for this? It's actually a pretty neat design! I was thinking of using hardware to attach to my Alpha Flight yoke and just put it in the center between the two yokes. Honest, this looks much easier and better than taking apart and drilling into a $400 piece of gear. Hah!
HI mate. Thanks for the feedback. Yes have tried using bands and varying springs but unfortunately not that easy to accurately get back to dead centre. Something on my future wish list to address. ...On the subject of the print files. What specifically are you thinking of? I assume the mechanical linkage arm and clamp setup?? If so, join my discord and I can see if I can help you out.........discord.gg/qc2VygKxWY
It occurs to me that the swingarm system you've implemented may more accurately emulate the non-linear nature of mechanical pitch control input than the "rack & pinion" style I've seen in other home cockpits. Nicely done.
thanks mate. I did contemplate rack and pinion in my early design concepts, but landed on this. Future project though is to get the self-centre to work properly. Not functioning the best which does make trimming out a tad difficult....
Cool design. I am trying to build a similar unit. Love the simplicity of using drawer guides that seem to give a very nice movement. Cheers!
Cheers and thanks. Appreciate the feedback.
I'm sure you've solved your roll centering by now - but if not..a suggestion. How about a spring on either side of that cross bar. Install a stand on the other side of the cross bar - level with the cross-bar attach one end to the stand and the other to the cross bar. The cross bar should roll back to the center.
thanks mate for the feedback and appreciate you tuning in. Whilst I havent fully implemented the solution yet, I intend to use heavy duty rubber bands (simple but they are effective), pick up on the crossbar as you highlight, but tie back to the existing main frame (untreated pine you see) on either side. I reckon this will do the trick. Will ket everyone know how this goes once I get it done.
Is that blue shaft mount also 3d printed? Looks similar to what I've found online labeled as a "pillow block bearing" though I have no idea what those are normally used for.
Hi mate, No this is a purchased item (cast steel with insert bearing) and is typically used for shafts in industrial applications. They are relatively cheap to buy (w/- bearing) and I would recommend doing that rather than 3d printing these. Having said that, if you have a 3D printer and a design at hand, perhaps give it a try. If it breaks, then you know you need to go out and buy one or two depending on whether dual controlling or not......hope this helps.
I love your sim mate
cheers buddy. Appreciate the feedback.
Have you attempted the same with rudder pedals? I love this idea
The rudder pedals are a little more complex given the toe brakes if you want true dual control. I rarely get anyone in the co-pilot seat and visually, the 2nd yoke moving looks pretty cool I think.....thanks for tuning in.
Hey mate, just wondering if you use any hall effect sensors or only potentiometers? Also, is your yoke noticeably better than the standard Saitek one (I mean apart from centering mods)? Loving your videos thanks.
Hi and thanks for tuning in. I am using standard rotary potentiometers for the yoke (pitch and roll), and linear potentiometers for the throttle / mixture. With regards to the Yoke, I have pretty much stripped it down to just the yoke handle (Saitek) only. From there everything is custom. New aluminum shafts, and push to talk button switch on rear of left hand side. No doubt a Yoko yoke or something similar would do a better job, but in all honesty, I find my setup to work really well. Check out Captain Bob's channel as well in this regard as he has done something similar to me.
Cheers… Are you selling the STL files for the 3D parts? Thanks mate!
not yet. Perhaps one day. Just havent got around to it yet.
@@CessSim Perfect outstanding thank you so much. I’m sure you get ask a lot sorry for asking the same question over again mate.
Tightening pipe clip is called a Jubilee clip!
Thanks
Wow this is a great setup. Are any of your 3d printed parts publically available to recreate something similar?
thanks for the feedback and appreciate your sub and tuning in. I actually havent done anything with the 3d parts as of yet, but perhaps should consider a post to Thingiverse or something?
@@CessSim That would be awesome. My limited mechanical inclinations have made me seek a design like this. I've been doing lots of research recently trying to find inspiration for the best dual-yoke setup and yours looks very functional. I am a little weary of the wear on the rubber bands and potentially dry-rotting but that seems easily fixable with the right expansion spring and spring constant.
@@kpjVideo happy to share. To be honest I tried springs before and I prefer the bands. They are very cheap to buy and I swap them out every couple of .months. Not an issue, quick to do and as I said they are cheap and noise free.....
@@CessSim good point about the noise, didn’t think of that. If you happen to upload anything on thingiverse let me know!
Put motors for feed back force stead rubber bands.. congrats
thanks for the feedback. Whilst the bands are fairly crude, they work better than springs IMO. Have you done this with motors or know of someone that has?
There’s is people that has used Microsoft flight simulator feed back joystick disassemble use logic card sensors and upgrade motors
Thanks.
What is the link to that call and ring ? Did you buy the on ebay? Can you kindly let me know the size and brand that I can order on line?
Bought from a local hardware store...from memory was sized to suit diameter 25mm shaft
Nice job
Thanks mate.