After reading through a lot of comments I see that the essence of this video is not communicated clearly. I'm aware that this is not the best approach to silence a PC and thanks for all the suggestions about how this can be done properly. Sometimes I just want to try out something without thinking too much about it. Why? It was honestly fun to envision making a cabinet like this, actually make it, find interesting challenges along the way and share it in a not too serious way. If I just did the obvious, I wouldn't have found this way of making filters, combining flexible and rigid materials in one part in this way and make this cool looking power button (yes I know that there are other ways of powering up a PC remotely). Sometimes, as cliche as it sounds, the journey is more important as the destination, yet I am happy with the result as it is now. My goal is to inspire, excite and entertain people to start their own projects and not be afraid of failure. This video, in my opinion, fits this goal. If you want a how-to video, don't care about the journey together with its wrong choices and want a thought-out, proven end result, then my videos will not be for you. I keep on experimenting, enjoy the process, embrace the mistakes, learn along the way, don't always choose the obvious and share this in the best way I can. Hopefully this makes sense and I wish you an awesome day!
A lot of clean and good work, thanks for showing. You did an excellent job using 3D printing techniques and connecting to other makers. To be honest, this project is nothing for my loud blower graphics card PC because I don't have a reset function. I am doing experiments and sometimes my setup gets stuck and then I quickly need the reset button. Even efficiency was not your primary goal, I would like to give some improvements for further versions: The fans of the air intake and outtake need to be attached gapless to provide good air flow, attach the motherboard and components directly to the hanging wooden plate and get a tight mash or some sort of steel cover on the wood to avoid radiation to come outside. Even better: A silent PC without fans, there was a kickstarter project, but the product did not yet make it into commercial shops. They used some kind of gas/ water cooling that works powered by the heat of the processor. No fan is needed, even for a gaming setup. I'd love to use this silent setup in an audio studio.
Oh wow. Never knew you're from so close by where I grew up. And here I am. Completely having failef at upgrading my Ender 3 Pro with a BLTouch. Only now over a year later to try again...
Dude. You're starting to overdo this TH-cam thing. Everyone has thought of making this cabinet to silence their pc. What everyone doesn't have is the talent, tools, time, contacts, sponsors, storytelling and wilfulness to fail that you have. I see the point. Fantasy fulfillment... It's fun to watch while you're stuck with issues on the main project. Great tease with the broken printer btw. That's gonna be epic.
I love how you could have just replaced the fans, but instead, you spend a lot of money and resources to build something and in the end replace the fans either way. I love it xD
or just slow the fans down with PWM. I own those fans, and you can just turn them down. They have a super wide working RPM range, wider then most Noctua fans, if you turn them down they are just as quite as any other fan they sell, but they can also tough enough to spin really fast (and therefor loud).
@@monev44 He said in the video the PC was throttling as it was even when jetplane loud, slowing them down would have just made it throttle even harder as-it-was, though if you meant after the radiator getting pushed outside etc, then there is merit in that, to just re-use them somewhere.
I upgraded my fans, it cost some decent money but it was well worth it. I can turn my server on and hear almost nothing now. It's way better than trying to soundproof the thing , it saves space.
5 Things you need for a silent build: - FANCONTROL - Many, big fans, runing at extremely low RPM - More heatsink/radiator than your part needs - All the airflow (you'll definitelly need a bigger case to be able to cool the 14900K). - Remove sound dampening for more airflow. As a system integrator it took me a few similar bad decisions to find out that there's no way to "soundproof" a PC. You can make it dead silent though... (Pretty much the only part you can't quiet down any other way are the hard drives, but nowadays it's easy to go full SSD on your workstation and you totally should put a NAS somewhere else anyway). What you need is "just a bit above enough" cooling via heatsinks, and good airflow optimization. That way with proper fan control you can get absolute silence during regular use, and maaaybe some sound during a heavy load like exporting/rendering. There's pretty much no way to dampen the sound properly without sacrificing airflow that is a lot more important. To the specifics: - For the CPU, get a liquid cooler that's almost overkill for you cpu, (in your case there's pretty much no such thing as overkill because the 14900k is running like it has the depths of hell running in it) so go with something like an Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 or even 420. - For the GPU you generally just look at the datasheet and go with the heaviest card with the biggest heatsink and most heatpipes for the money. (Yours should be fine. Idk what GPU is in there but that card is quite a chonk.) - FANS. MORE FANS. You need preferably 140 fans and at least 3 intakes and 2 outputs. Noctuas are great and all, but Arctic's new P14 MAX fans are close to being the same for a fraction of the price, there's a 5 pack, grab that (and maybe 2 fan splitters with that). Fan placement: You'll probably need a new case to fit it all. One that can have 3 intakes in the front (/bottom), and have enough space for your 360 or 420 rad on the top. While we're at it, your radiator in this case should be on the output side for sure. You don't want that extreme heat output from that 14900k to cook all your other components too. Configure your fan headers in a way that you have your inputs and outputs on separate headers, so later you can control them indipendently. FAN CONTROL: ...download Fancontrol by Rem0o. An extremely handy and easy to use software that enables advanced fan control. Here's the general idea of configuration: - The secret sauce: Add 2 "Time Avarage" custom sensors. One for the CPU one for the GPU. Set them to 30-60 seconds. This will prevent all temperature fluctuation related unnecessary fan speedups. - Add 2 "Graph" fan curves using the AVG sensors as inputs. - For the first point choose a minimum operating speed, about 20-40% or where the fans are running at around 500-900rpm which should be close to absolute silence. The temperature you set this point to should be the "activation temperature" at which you start "actively" cooling your system. I usually set it to 50-60C°. - The second point on you graph is going to be the max that defines your "fan curve aggression". I'd recomend starting off with 100%, 100C° (it's not going to reach that temp don't worry), put the system under load and use this second point to change the "curve"s steepness to where the temps are in the comfortable(GPU under 80, CPU under 90) range with the lowest possible fan speed. EXTRAS: Case pressure: You should always have more input air than output, creating positive pressure, preventing unfiltered air leaking into your rig through gaps. Filtering: Make sure that you choose a case with mesh panels and removable dust filters, they make maintenace easier. (When having enough filtered air input space, make sure to block all other unfiltered gaps and holes that might be on your case panels, to again prevent unfiltered airflow.) PSU: Get a high efficiency psu, with preferably a lowspeed/off fan function. Whenever a fanblade is facing a grill or mesh (usually on the input side), make sure there's at least 5mm clearance (you can print a spacer) to prevent noise. Rad push-pull: if it fits in your case, put a fan on both sides of the radiator for more efficient cooling. ... i just wanted to point out a few things but it kinda got a bit longer, I hope it ends up being helpfull for anyone.
that would be to easy my budged build uses a cheap 80 bucks nanoxia case. i use an aircooled videocard and aircooled my cpu during desktop and rendering its barely noticeable. Even during long gaming its relatively quiet. U simply need a program to adjust the fan curve.. its the most common knowledge and everyone does it u can further improve with good fans, watercooling, good thermal paste and pads or even liquid metal its easy... everyone knows that. but this guy decided to make the worst approach i have ever seen. So much time and money spend and the result looks horrible and sucks. absolutely beyond me how a person can be like that. makes me want punching the air lmao
Is push pull at all worth it ? Also in terms of cooling performance and noise, how would u compare arctic and noctua? I have 6 intake fans on the bottom and side, and one top exhaust with 360mm rad. Do i need to do anything special with fan settings ? Right now they are all set to cpu temps, to max out at 70c. Also i think my gpu is blocking airflow from the bottom intakes on cpu only loads. Is that a thing?
Sound Engineer here with a few "rule of thumbs" for improve your project: 1- Acoustic foam is used for sound reflection absorption, not insulation. It does have an small effect, but you probably already realized that. the deeper the foam, the lower the frequency it will absorb. Consider leaving a gap between it and the walls of the cabinet, and it will have a better efficiency. 2- for springs absorption, the perfect amount of deformity under load for it absorb vibrations is about 30%. For example, your string should stretch 30% while holding your computer to have a more efficient absorption of the vibrations. 3- I will assume the main source of noise in your cabinets where the vents: open windows directly into the noise. You could build a duct like box filled with absorbent materials for your air circulation, and this would mitigate your problem.
I really love your enthusiasm but what we did in the company I recently worked for our audio engineers is just moving PCs outside of the room. If you need dead silent environment that is the solution. It seems to me it will be both more effective and less cumbersome but probably less content for a video 😂. But the button... I want one! :)
Another engineer here - reducing sound radiation is not a simple task. (Sauce, specified and worked with sound-measurement anechoic chambers.) The principal you're looking for is called mass loading. For every doubling of the mass per unit area of a wall, the sound transmission is reduced by 6 dB. For reference, the human ear needs 3 dB difference to even be detectable, but it's logarithmic. For a thing to "sound" half as loud, it needs about 10 dB reduction. Your ikea box walls need to have their mass per unit area quadrupled to reduce the sound by 12 dB. There are products you can apply to do that (foam-backed, mass-loaded-vinyl for example). It's really hard to do what you were trying to do. Oh, and any openings kill the performance. A gap of a fraction of an inch would virtually negate the effect of a really heavy sound reduction box. So, ventilation is a nightmare. It's FAR preferable if at ALL possible to simply reduce the source noise level. Which, of course, you did eventually find out. Still, I love the work you did!
Such an engineer move, creating a whole cabinet when it was as easy as replacing the cooler ;) Also for reference, the foam you used is meant to stop echoes in a room, not block sound from coming out. So it actually has a very minimal effect in this case. You'd want something much denser such as rock wool or proper sound isolation panels to block the sound from coming out (not that they are needed anymore for this project).
@@properprinting Looks don't matter inside of soundproofing cabinets though. Because they're closed to the public for some reason 😉 Maybe take a look inside a silenced air compressor housing before building your next cabinet. You'll find a thick layer of rockwool, usually hidden underneath perforated metal sheets, just like one would build a car muffler. And, equally important - in and out airducts are built like a labyrinth, which of course is also covered with rockwool. No direct escape route for the soundwaves. But regardless of being useful stuff or not - an awesome example of craftmanship!
The funniest part is at 17:20 he uses noctua fans, which could have solved the problem all by themselves 😂 love it, why go with the obvious solution when you have a more fun one 🎉
hilarious how after all that effort you changed the fans and it was more quiet out of the box than the old system had been in it, still an awesome project
a easy way to make meshes is to pause the print halfway, then tension a nylon stocking over the print, then resume. the fabric will be embedded in the print. :-)
I really liked this video. I feel so much better about my project mishaps and disasters when I see someone with more skills than I have running into the same problems. Plus, the over-engineering to solve a PC cooling is such a relatable problem. Forget 3 lefts to make a right, this was like 11. You got stuck in the roundabout for an hour and a half forgetting where you're going, when the ultimate solution was fixing the PC's cooling.
This is a video filled with my worst decisions, but with somehow the best outcomes haha. Thanks Hendrik for the cherry on top by electroplating the remote power button! Check out his channel www.youtube.com/@hen3drik If you have any concerns about the temperature of my PC, especially in this hot weather, I'll post an update on Twitter if there are any noteworthy findings. Things are looking good and it's so silent that I thought that the remote power button broke xD
You are a living breathing walking legend. Haha. Epic video for a fantasticly thoroughly made solution for a problem that solved itself, with new fans. Haha. You beast!! ❤
First time i've watched one of your videos, and first time i've commented on one for a long time, brilliant video made me laugh, you have the same streak of jank as me😁, but i have to ask why put a box inside a box? i thought you were going to mount the PC components on the suspended platform, you could still do this.
you know you can configure bios to turn your pc on with your keyboard and mouse. like literally click the mouse button and your pc comes on. wild that you would build a whole ass button to solve a problem that doesnt actually exist.
I'd like to think that for the time/money you could have just added liquid cooling and changed out the fans but then we never would have gotten this amazing video! Absolute respect.
This was just the best video to watch. Jon, your projects are great to follow-along with you, but it's your storytelling and production, and of course your willingness to laugh at yourself that puts everything just so enjoyable to watch unfold. Sweet computer silence mode you have going now. I definitely want an adjustable desk now as well!
Step 1 - Get noisy fans Step 2 - Break IKEA cabinet Step 3 - Make IKEA cabinet work anyway Step 4 - It's still loud Step 5 - Fuck it all. Quiet fans Love it.
Its easily done by using multiple objects, to start with use a solid box that will act as your frame. For this item only set the top and bottom layers to 0 and then set infill to about 10% grid works best for this application. Then place the individual objects with in your frame like the face, glasses, or any other objects and for all of those individual items set the infill to a varying level of infill to give depth such as 20%, 30%, and so to give you different levels of shading. I've printed my own meshes for a number a things for over 3 years. Vase mode combined with brim on inside only is a great way to make lamp shades for around the home.
Ivan here from Dallas Texas. I don't 3d print but I do have a large computer system 4 computers and a about 20 or monitors, yeah I'm a computer nerd. I have a hot room I was looking for cooling ideas and I came across this video. To fix my cooling problem I just purchased a stand alone AC unit drilled a 6 in hole in my brick house and use plastic ducting to direct cold air to cover my systems. BUT your videos are so nerd funny, just great to watch. Maybe one day I'll get into 3D printing. Till then keep making these sick videos! Your awesome to watch !! Greatness!!
I just ran water lines to the crawl space under my house where the water passes through a car radiator. The crawl space is always cool and the radiator is big enough that it doesn't even need fans. Best of all, my house doesn't get hot from the PC.
good idea. small heat exchangers are available and I didn’t find the water cooling to be too expensive. KVM is probably the best solution but it ain’t cheap either.
@@haxboi5492 with a fan controller app he could have also just set it on a profile for those calls. but personally, just having good components for the thing that needs to be cooled makes it a lot more quite. like, for the i9 i made sure the temperature capability of the cooler could handle the cpu. and then changed the fan speed a bit to where its within acceptable ranges while still being mostly quiet. a soft soothing hum. normal conversation volume would over power the sound. and for just a normal low load, you could technically get away with the fan being off entirely with a good air cooler. which you cant really do using a water cooler solution.
To do what in the bios? Reduce the fan speed so that they rotate less quickly and are quieter? So that they cool less and the box is too hot again? That's a great idea.
This is one of the best "how to NOT do it" videos out there. Much appreciated. 🤣 Anyhow, I recommend you simple put your entire PC into a different room, connecting your usb devices and screens using fiber optical cables such as AOC DisplayPort, Fiber HDMI and Fiber USB. Add in an USB hub, and two such cables should suffice.
So moral of the story is first to try a different cooling solution, lol. Great video, there's no better way to learn than to try. And thanks for sharing, it was a fun project to watch. Best!
I want to applaud you, for consistently creating enjoyable videos. I always look forward to your video postings. Your editing, ideas and execution of your insane ideas are mile above what all the other content creators in the 3d printing realm are creating. You have the best 3d printing content on youtube by miles!
I watched this whole video. At the beginning I was just like, "fool, just buy a case with some actual ventilation and airflow and some lower RPM fans". At the end of the video I subscribed as this was just so EXTRA and I'm here for whatever this mans brain comes up with!
Did anyone else here figure that he was going to install the brown and tans at some point.. then realize that the whole project was a waste of time? I did lmao.
Just wow. Love the work and the results but most of all the honesty. The fact that he develops this solution to the mm accuracy IN the cabinet to then realise that it doesn't quite fit under the desk is priceless. Impossible not to identify myself with this 😂
Just found your channel, it's great man. You deserve to have millions of subscribers and I think if more people knew about your channel then you would. Your videos are so entertaining and educational at the same time. Thanks for putting out such awesome content, keep it up. I can totally see you having a massivee TH-cam following one day.
Very cool project! One idea for improvement: Arrange the fans differently. You want more fans pushing air into the case than fans extracting air. This is to create positive pressure inside the case, meaning you will have air "leaking" out of any cracks. This is good because otherwise you might get dust sucked into the case through these cracks which is supposed to end up in the filters instead. Also use fans made for high static pressure instead of high airflow when you're pushing air though a filter.
Very Rube Goldberg solution, I laughed when he bought Noctua 120mm fans for the box, then replaced the water cooler with one using Noctua Fans. A shortcut might have been to use Noctua fans in the very beginning replacing the cooler fans. But he did it and the lessons learned along the way, and the content created, make the effort worth it. As an IT guy, the damping box solution works and so therefore it is good. My inner engineer tells me to try the simpler solution is more elegant.
Hello friend, you could have: 1- sold your very noisy computer 2- bought a quiet new pc 3- enjoyed your coffee much earlier! Like me right now with my tea ;) But I Always admire your creations :)
I love everything about this project, including the cabinet not fitting under the desk and going straight for maximum overkill instead of examining the existing thermal solution. This is exactly the type of stuff that I would do lol
I normally would suggest people to reduce the sound emission before trying to dampen in. But clearly it makes a much better video the other way around. 😂 There were so many cool ideers in this one video. I fucking loved it. 👍
Am I missing something? Sure this is a cool project und fun Video as always, but regardless of passive noise isolation, you have to control your fanspeed, why run them on 100% all the time? I mean this being an engineering channel, the sensible solution should at least be mentioned.
Good point! And now I realize that I haven't explained this. In the beginning, I exaggerate it because I think it's funny. Later on when I held the microphone in front of the cabinet, it was the actual sound. I thought that I could run them slow indeed, but the lowest they go is still very loud. One step slower and they just stall. You can hear them going from stalling to spinning up constantly when I haven them in "silent" mode. Hopefully this makes sense!
@@properprinting Huh I would have never thought that those industrial Noctua fans are so loud event at their low range RPM. I hope I didn’t sound to negative. I love your work and exploration at the fringes of 3D printing tech. And this project is cool regardless, just the industrial vibe of this setup is worth it on its one.
@@properprinting you probably have them running in pwm mode, try running them in DC mode and I bet you can get them to run slower. Unlike a arduino or esp, you can't control the pwm frequency from the motherboard, so running them in DC mode will let you control them using voltage and you won't get any pwm noise as well.
16:00 Inside, I would use mounting foam faster and cheaper, but that's not what the project is about, the main goal is to have fun and learn new techniques. If the goal was quiet cooling, he would use water cooling or some other liquid.
So you made your PC enclosure "Earthquake proof". About using infill for filters. I also do this as you can easily change the density by changing the infill percentage.
@@iamdmc Just to fill you in on the 'joke'. He lives close to where I live and here in Groningen we have had quite a few earthquakes due to gas extraction. The house I live in already has been demolished and rebuilt (total of 30 houses in our street at once, lots more in progress) and our house has been rebuilt on top of base isolation sliders. (friction pendulum) These are essentially two concave discs on top of eachother with a big ice-hockey puck inbetween. The idea is that this will eventually slide back into the center position. Only has a bit more friction compared to the swing setup he made. But I guess the cables and the foam on the side will also act as dampeners. Anyway, it was meant as an inside joke.
The genuine child like excitement when your printed power button, was first tested and worked, brings such joy. Especially to me, when all my projects seem to fail.
Bruh... So much wasted potential.... 1. Your foam does nothing in there except keep heat in. Real audio diffusion foam is HARD, I suspect you have the Chinese knock-off stuff that we all were duped into buying. 2. You need something high density to dampen the interior, for example drywall or cement. You can also buy damping material made for this like a thick tar-like sticky pad that you glue onto the inside of the cabinet. 3. Put baffles in corners. Just google Acoustic Corner Bass Trap 4. Why put a cabinet in your cabinet when you could... put PC components in the cabinet! Just mount alu plate with standoffs directly to the inside wall of IKEA cabinet and mount components directly to that. TIP: Look at DIY perks channel on TH-cam for lots of awesome details 5. Hang the ikea cabinet under your desk so you can strip down all the wires and get a vacuum cleaner under it.
agreed, I have my home theater pc in my entertainment center and within the cabinet is basically just a test bench made out of scrap plywood but the cabinet is layered with mass loaded vinyl, its a sheet of ridiculously heavy rubber used for sound proofing walls of commercial buildings.
I think the foam he's using is the same he's using on the walls, but that's for reducing reverb, not sound dampening, and it's probably not great at that either.
This solution was such a over the top way to get to a conclusion you could have done with just a couple of new parts or just a larger chassis. Like deciding you have a fly problem and best way to get rid of them is a m1 abrams. That being said it was a deeply enthralling video because of your personality, the absolute tinkerer brain you had throughout the whole process, and the improvisation you made work for the project. Ultimately a fail but the process was what made this video so worthwhile and entertaining.
Way easier would have been to let the PC auto start after power outage (setting in BIOS) and then control the power with a smart socket. That's what I do and works perfect.
This was a bad design for bad idea. It would be hard to call this overkill since it didn't actually do its job. I appreciate you showing your fails and I'm still subbed. Keep up the work!
You probably figured but for a sound proof design you need tick MDF and Mass Loaded Vinyl. The opening should have a labyrinth style tunnel with walls covered in triangular foam to scatter sound while it tries to escape.
I Love this video! My eyes are watering from laughter. Thank you for sharing this. You are a master of entertainment, the timing of your punch lines are spot on, even if your saw cuts arent.
You inspired me to solve a problem so much simpler than I had planned. I have a motorized desk and I want to hang my PC under it. Instead of using metal brackets I should use just the baseplate and some strings to hang it. That is so much simpler and easier! Brilliant.
I just have to say, that feeling you probably had when you turned it on inside the cabinet for the first time is too familiar. I felt it watching this. Even though it doesn’t feel good, I hope people can watch this and say they were inspired rather than being overly critical of a first attempt at a difficult project. I mean yea it didn’t work great, but it did work kind of and you probably gained some knowledge along the way which is always important. I watched this and I did feel that moment of disappointment, but holy shit you gave me so many ideas for things I want to do for my PC. Both inside and outside. Especially that power button. Honestly I would like to remake that cabinet for something that doesn’t need to be right next to me like my printer. Make that bigger, reduce ventilation, and change the suspension system and a bed slinger could sit in there printing all day in a corner printing and nobody would know. Great video man. Thank you.
I'm currently building a 3D-printed NAS case, specifically the "Modcase MASS", which exists in a free and paid version. It also uses infill for air filters and it really does work great. Their models come in 2 parts, one for the structure and one for the filters (overlapping of course, so the connect) and use different print settings for the filters: no perimeters, no top/bottom layers and infil-% with grid pattern depending on nozzle sizes (usually 40% for 0.4mm). As for your build: my god that's an awesome and appropriately over-engineered solution, it's just glorious! Side note: your fans alone cost more than my entire case combined.
Nifty project! I built myself a sound proof box for a compressor recently- the thing is way louder than any PC, it's deffening. It's still loud but it works- makes a significant difference. For me, it's basically just a box with some foam on the inside with as many extra pillows and blankets as possible on the outside- it's got a mini box fan intake and an air outlet to keep it cool. I use it for air assist while laser cutting/engraving so it runs a lot when I'm doing a job.
I just love watching your videos. It seems like each one is more entertaining yet more informative than the last. Honestly, because of this I watch all your videos, even if it's something I'm not into (like resin printing) cause I know it'll be a fun video and time well spent. Keep pumping out great content! P.S. I SOOO wish I had a remote power button for my PC. It's a bit of a stretch to reach it under my desk.
If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing. This is the most ridiculous solution to a minor problem I've ever seen, and I loved every second of it. Massive kudos!
Wow! The journey is what matters. Who cares if it works or not. I have been off 3d printing for a while but you just gave me some motivation to go create/upgrade/destroy things. Man that was something to watch :)
That adjustable density filter from the slicer is amazing. That has to be a fantastic way to make screen printing screens too. It already looks like a lithography mask.
I rarely add comments, but this video had me rolling around laughing the whole time... you just condensed down my last several years' experience with "this server is too loud, how should I handle that?" into ~26 minutes. Every time another thing happened I was like, "YES THAT ONE TOO OMG". 😆 Thank you for including all the "fails" as well as the end result!
The video was a real treat to watch! I was so invested in your project and hoping for a successful outcome. While there might be more efficient ways to approach this, your method was truly unique and that's what made it so interesting. Looking forward to future videos!
I've been using the infill-as-mesh for a few projects now and absolutely love how they turn out. Laptop fan filters, 40mm R Pi coolers, and some 3d printer additions that really give an amazing look. Much happier with it than when I tried to model in mesh back a few years ago.
I once had a full ATX tower which was specifically designed for sound isolation. It was from a german engineering company which name I can't recollect. One of the things they did to damper the sound, was using a tar-coated fabric on the panels. Not sure if it was actual tar, but it didn't smell at all, and the tower was super silent
I am literally in the process of doing a very similar project and kept saying to myself while watching your video, "If this works, I am over-engineering what I am doing." If you want to try again, try a duct system with a muffler for ventilation, use r10+ foam board for walls, Add a layer of drywall on the outside with a membrade of mass load vinyl in between. All cracks should have dense sealant. The goal is density with bouncing layers.
Very cool project! Well done. I made a remote PC starter out of a wireless doorbell and a relay once for a similar reason. I love that electroplated button though! The best part was taking us along for the journey! :) Cheers!
Massively overengineered, problem solved by going back to the original thing you didn't want to change, new desk needed to store the new cabinet under... I loved it. What a journey and what a great way to power on your PC.
After reading through a lot of comments I see that the essence of this video is not communicated clearly. I'm aware that this is not the best approach to silence a PC and thanks for all the suggestions about how this can be done properly.
Sometimes I just want to try out something without thinking too much about it. Why? It was honestly fun to envision making a cabinet like this, actually make it, find interesting challenges along the way and share it in a not too serious way. If I just did the obvious, I wouldn't have found this way of making filters, combining flexible and rigid materials in one part in this way and make this cool looking power button (yes I know that there are other ways of powering up a PC remotely).
Sometimes, as cliche as it sounds, the journey is more important as the destination, yet I am happy with the result as it is now. My goal is to inspire, excite and entertain people to start their own projects and not be afraid of failure. This video, in my opinion, fits this goal. If you want a how-to video, don't care about the journey together with its wrong choices and want a thought-out, proven end result, then my videos will not be for you. I keep on experimenting, enjoy the process, embrace the mistakes, learn along the way, don't always choose the obvious and share this in the best way I can.
Hopefully this makes sense and I wish you an awesome day!
A lot of clean and good work, thanks for showing. You did an excellent job using 3D printing techniques and connecting to other makers.
To be honest, this project is nothing for my loud blower graphics card PC because I don't have a reset function. I am doing experiments and sometimes my setup gets stuck and then I quickly need the reset button.
Even efficiency was not your primary goal, I would like to give some improvements for further versions: The fans of the air intake and outtake need to be attached gapless to provide good air flow, attach the motherboard and components directly to the hanging wooden plate and get a tight mash or some sort of steel cover on the wood to avoid radiation to come outside.
Even better: A silent PC without fans, there was a kickstarter project, but the product did not yet make it into commercial shops. They used some kind of gas/ water cooling that works powered by the heat of the processor. No fan is needed, even for a gaming setup. I'd love to use this silent setup in an audio studio.
Oh wow. Never knew you're from so close by where I grew up.
And here I am. Completely having failef at upgrading my Ender 3 Pro with a BLTouch. Only now over a year later to try again...
Dude. You're starting to overdo this TH-cam thing. Everyone has thought of making this cabinet to silence their pc. What everyone doesn't have is the talent, tools, time, contacts, sponsors, storytelling and wilfulness to fail that you have. I see the point. Fantasy fulfillment... It's fun to watch while you're stuck with issues on the main project. Great tease with the broken printer btw. That's gonna be epic.
@properprinting There will always be people with a small frame of perspective, generally. (Most mean well, though). This was a brilliant video!
If you want the old table back and want that thing to fit under there you can replace the wheels with feet
(unless you can find smaller wheels)
I love how you could have just replaced the fans, but instead, you spend a lot of money and resources to build something and in the end replace the fans either way. I love it xD
sometimes the 5th idea on the list that "looks stupid" is the best option.
or just slow the fans down with PWM. I own those fans, and you can just turn them down. They have a super wide working RPM range, wider then most Noctua fans, if you turn them down they are just as quite as any other fan they sell, but they can also tough enough to spin really fast (and therefor loud).
@@monev44 He said in the video the PC was throttling as it was even when jetplane loud, slowing them down would have just made it throttle even harder as-it-was, though if you meant after the radiator getting pushed outside etc, then there is merit in that, to just re-use them somewhere.
I upgraded my fans, it cost some decent money but it was well worth it. I can turn my server on and hear almost nothing now. It's way better than trying to soundproof the thing , it saves space.
I'm not a youtuber, so I just bought the best fans on the market.
5 Things you need for a silent build:
- FANCONTROL
- Many, big fans, runing at extremely low RPM
- More heatsink/radiator than your part needs
- All the airflow (you'll definitelly need a bigger case to be able to cool the 14900K).
- Remove sound dampening for more airflow.
As a system integrator it took me a few similar bad decisions to find out that there's no way to "soundproof" a PC. You can make it dead silent though... (Pretty much the only part you can't quiet down any other way are the hard drives, but nowadays it's easy to go full SSD on your workstation and you totally should put a NAS somewhere else anyway).
What you need is "just a bit above enough" cooling via heatsinks, and good airflow optimization. That way with proper fan control you can get absolute silence during regular use, and maaaybe some sound during a heavy load like exporting/rendering. There's pretty much no way to dampen the sound properly without sacrificing airflow that is a lot more important.
To the specifics:
- For the CPU, get a liquid cooler that's almost overkill for you cpu, (in your case there's pretty much no such thing as overkill because the 14900k is running like it has the depths of hell running in it) so go with something like an Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 or even 420.
- For the GPU you generally just look at the datasheet and go with the heaviest card with the biggest heatsink and most heatpipes for the money. (Yours should be fine. Idk what GPU is in there but that card is quite a chonk.)
- FANS. MORE FANS. You need preferably 140 fans and at least 3 intakes and 2 outputs. Noctuas are great and all, but Arctic's new P14 MAX fans are close to being the same for a fraction of the price, there's a 5 pack, grab that (and maybe 2 fan splitters with that).
Fan placement:
You'll probably need a new case to fit it all. One that can have 3 intakes in the front (/bottom), and have enough space for your 360 or 420 rad on the top.
While we're at it, your radiator in this case should be on the output side for sure. You don't want that extreme heat output from that 14900k to cook all your other components too.
Configure your fan headers in a way that you have your inputs and outputs on separate headers, so later you can control them indipendently.
FAN CONTROL:
...download Fancontrol by Rem0o. An extremely handy and easy to use software that enables advanced fan control. Here's the general idea of configuration:
- The secret sauce: Add 2 "Time Avarage" custom sensors. One for the CPU one for the GPU. Set them to 30-60 seconds. This will prevent all temperature fluctuation related unnecessary fan speedups.
- Add 2 "Graph" fan curves using the AVG sensors as inputs.
- For the first point choose a minimum operating speed, about 20-40% or where the fans are running at around 500-900rpm which should be close to absolute silence. The temperature you set this point to should be the "activation temperature" at which you start "actively" cooling your system. I usually set it to 50-60C°.
- The second point on you graph is going to be the max that defines your "fan curve aggression". I'd recomend starting off with 100%, 100C° (it's not going to reach that temp don't worry), put the system under load and use this second point to change the "curve"s steepness to where the temps are in the comfortable(GPU under 80, CPU under 90) range with the lowest possible fan speed.
EXTRAS:
Case pressure: You should always have more input air than output, creating positive pressure, preventing unfiltered air leaking into your rig through gaps.
Filtering: Make sure that you choose a case with mesh panels and removable dust filters, they make maintenace easier. (When having enough filtered air input space, make sure to block all other unfiltered gaps and holes that might be on your case panels, to again prevent unfiltered airflow.)
PSU: Get a high efficiency psu, with preferably a lowspeed/off fan function.
Whenever a fanblade is facing a grill or mesh (usually on the input side), make sure there's at least 5mm clearance (you can print a spacer) to prevent noise.
Rad push-pull: if it fits in your case, put a fan on both sides of the radiator for more efficient cooling.
... i just wanted to point out a few things but it kinda got a bit longer, I hope it ends up being helpfull for anyone.
You are THE man.
As an IT-Admin and PC builder myself this is 100% spot on ! Very good work! 😎
that would be to easy
my budged build uses a cheap 80 bucks nanoxia case.
i use an aircooled videocard and aircooled my cpu
during desktop and rendering its barely noticeable. Even during long gaming its relatively quiet.
U simply need a program to adjust the fan curve.. its the most common knowledge and everyone does it
u can further improve with good fans, watercooling, good thermal paste and pads or even liquid metal
its easy... everyone knows that.
but this guy decided to make the worst approach i have ever seen. So much time and money spend and the result looks horrible and sucks.
absolutely beyond me how a person can be like that. makes me want punching the air lmao
Is push pull at all worth it ? Also in terms of cooling performance and noise, how would u compare arctic and noctua?
I have 6 intake fans on the bottom and side, and one top exhaust with 360mm rad. Do i need to do anything special with fan settings ? Right now they are all set to cpu temps, to max out at 70c.
Also i think my gpu is blocking airflow from the bottom intakes on cpu only loads. Is that a thing?
@@pedro_peyotewhat this guy has built is a passion build. People like you would never understand the aesthetic.
Sound Engineer here with a few "rule of thumbs" for improve your project:
1- Acoustic foam is used for sound reflection absorption, not insulation. It does have an small effect, but you probably already realized that. the deeper the foam, the lower the frequency it will absorb. Consider leaving a gap between it and the walls of the cabinet, and it will have a better efficiency.
2- for springs absorption, the perfect amount of deformity under load for it absorb vibrations is about 30%. For example, your string should stretch 30% while holding your computer to have a more efficient absorption of the vibrations.
3- I will assume the main source of noise in your cabinets where the vents: open windows directly into the noise. You could build a duct like box filled with absorbent materials for your air circulation, and this would mitigate your problem.
Thanks for your insights!
A long muffler to absorb the noise, nice idea!
@@HERUsai build the pc into the muffler *mind blown*
I really love your enthusiasm but what we did in the company I recently worked for our audio engineers is just moving PCs outside of the room. If you need dead silent environment that is the solution. It seems to me it will be both more effective and less cumbersome but probably less content for a video 😂. But the button... I want one! :)
Was looking for this comment. 👍
Your pc was loud in that call! And this is coming from somenoe that puts his face next to pulsjet engines!
Do you run pulsejets to give your video calls more Zoom?
@@JonS It's like painting flames on stuff to make it go faster 😂
It was powered by the dying screams of all the tomatoes you killed on your channel
@@JonSUnderrated comment💯
@integza tomatoes are disgusting.
Another engineer here - reducing sound radiation is not a simple task. (Sauce, specified and worked with sound-measurement anechoic chambers.)
The principal you're looking for is called mass loading. For every doubling of the mass per unit area of a wall, the sound transmission is reduced by 6 dB. For reference, the human ear needs 3 dB difference to even be detectable, but it's logarithmic. For a thing to "sound" half as loud, it needs about 10 dB reduction. Your ikea box walls need to have their mass per unit area quadrupled to reduce the sound by 12 dB. There are products you can apply to do that (foam-backed, mass-loaded-vinyl for example). It's really hard to do what you were trying to do.
Oh, and any openings kill the performance. A gap of a fraction of an inch would virtually negate the effect of a really heavy sound reduction box. So, ventilation is a nightmare.
It's FAR preferable if at ALL possible to simply reduce the source noise level. Which, of course, you did eventually find out. Still, I love the work you did!
Such an engineer move, creating a whole cabinet when it was as easy as replacing the cooler ;)
Also for reference, the foam you used is meant to stop echoes in a room, not block sound from coming out. So it actually has a very minimal effect in this case. You'd want something much denser such as rock wool or proper sound isolation panels to block the sound from coming out (not that they are needed anymore for this project).
or water screaming under water is very hard
Oh yes, you're right! It's still significantly quieter and I bought these panels mostly because of looks and convenience, besides having some impact.
When I built a cabinet for one of my old printers, I used sound absorbing foam (purchased from McMaster-Carr here in the US). It's expensive though.
@@properprinting Looks don't matter inside of soundproofing cabinets though. Because they're closed to the public for some reason 😉
Maybe take a look inside a silenced air compressor housing before building your next cabinet.
You'll find a thick layer of rockwool, usually hidden underneath perforated metal sheets, just like one would build a car muffler.
And, equally important - in and out airducts are built like a labyrinth, which of course is also covered with rockwool. No direct escape route for the soundwaves.
But regardless of being useful stuff or not - an awesome example of craftmanship!
The funniest part is at 17:20 he uses noctua fans, which could have solved the problem all by themselves 😂 love it, why go with the obvious solution when you have a more fun one 🎉
hilarious how after all that effort you changed the fans and it was more quiet out of the box than the old system had been in it, still an awesome project
a easy way to make meshes is to pause the print halfway, then tension a nylon stocking over the print, then resume. the fabric will be embedded in the print. :-)
That's a great tip, thanks!
@@properprinting The mesh works by static charge.. plastic ones do not work.. just a waste of everything
@@hanswurstusbrachialus5213interesting. So metal window screen would work? Can’t be grounded I assume.
I use window screen. It’s more durable and easier to work with.
@@Krash101It all depends on the filtering efficiency you need. Standard window screens will catch some, a nylon stocking will catch more.
I really liked this video. I feel so much better about my project mishaps and disasters when I see someone with more skills than I have running into the same problems. Plus, the over-engineering to solve a PC cooling is such a relatable problem. Forget 3 lefts to make a right, this was like 11. You got stuck in the roundabout for an hour and a half forgetting where you're going, when the ultimate solution was fixing the PC's cooling.
Jon, this was 100% an emotional rollercoaster, and 100% worth the watch. Thanks!
Thanks Bryan!
That AIO wasn't underperforming, it's your bloody 14900k being a nuclear reactor that needs at least a 360 rad to cool
This is a video filled with my worst decisions, but with somehow the best outcomes haha. Thanks Hendrik for the cherry on top by electroplating the remote power button! Check out his channel www.youtube.com/@hen3drik
If you have any concerns about the temperature of my PC, especially in this hot weather, I'll post an update on Twitter if there are any noteworthy findings. Things are looking good and it's so silent that I thought that the remote power button broke xD
yeah like buying a 14900K, aka a furnace :D
my friend! You are next to a window. Why don't you use ducts and filters to move air in and out and leave the computer isolated from your studio?
You are a living breathing walking legend. Haha. Epic video for a fantasticly thoroughly made solution for a problem that solved itself, with new fans. Haha. You beast!! ❤
First time i've watched one of your videos, and first time i've commented on one for a long time, brilliant video made me laugh, you have the same streak of jank as me😁, but i have to ask why put a box inside a box? i thought you were going to mount the PC components on the suspended platform, you could still do this.
you know you can configure bios to turn your pc on with your keyboard and mouse. like literally click the mouse button and your pc comes on. wild that you would build a whole ass button to solve a problem that doesnt actually exist.
I'd like to think that for the time/money you could have just added liquid cooling and changed out the fans but then we never would have gotten this amazing video! Absolute respect.
So, instead of solving the overheating with a better case and cooler, we invested into an ikea chokebox.
I knew subscribing to you was a good idea
Only the best stuff happens here😆
Belt and Suspenders is even better 😂
I need more over-engineering in my life, subscribed 😂
This was just the best video to watch. Jon, your projects are great to follow-along with you, but it's your storytelling and production, and of course your willingness to laugh at yourself that puts everything just so enjoyable to watch unfold. Sweet computer silence mode you have going now. I definitely want an adjustable desk now as well!
Thanks you very much Courtney!
23:50 you could have just removed the weels man
Step 1 - Get noisy fans
Step 2 - Break IKEA cabinet
Step 3 - Make IKEA cabinet work anyway
Step 4 - It's still loud
Step 5 - Fuck it all. Quiet fans
Love it.
You better do a tutorial on how to do an infill image. It looked so good!
Hell yes please!!
Its easily done by using multiple objects, to start with use a solid box that will act as your frame. For this item only set the top and bottom layers to 0 and then set infill to about 10% grid works best for this application. Then place the individual objects with in your frame like the face, glasses, or any other objects and for all of those individual items set the infill to a varying level of infill to give depth such as 20%, 30%, and so to give you different levels of shading. I've printed my own meshes for a number a things for over 3 years. Vase mode combined with brim on inside only is a great way to make lamp shades for around the home.
@@Guardian_Arias seems simple but I cannot seem to get it working.....
Ivan here from Dallas Texas. I don't 3d print but I do have a large computer system 4 computers and a about 20 or monitors, yeah I'm a computer nerd. I have a hot room I was looking for cooling ideas and I came across this video. To fix my cooling problem I just purchased a stand alone AC unit drilled a 6 in hole in my brick house and use plastic ducting to direct cold air to cover my systems. BUT your videos are so nerd funny, just great to watch. Maybe one day I'll get into 3D printing. Till then keep making these sick videos! Your awesome to watch !! Greatness!!
Measure once, cut twice, hate life
edit: Measure once, cut twice, Repeat
measure once, cut twice, reglue, cut again
Cut, cut, measure what?
Love that he's a dungeons and daddies fan!!!
My man spent so much time making so many desings :) in the end just to make the pc quiet by itself :))
Respect
I just ran water lines to the crawl space under my house where the water passes through a car radiator. The crawl space is always cool and the radiator is big enough that it doesn't even need fans. Best of all, my house doesn't get hot from the PC.
good idea. small heat exchangers are available and I didn’t find the water cooling to be too expensive.
KVM is probably the best solution but it ain’t cheap either.
that sounds awesome. would love to see a video on that.
Pretty cool. You just use a pump made for pc water cooling or what?
WOW!!!❤
Geothermal loop
...a whole engineering plan... when you just needed to go into bios and adjust your fan speed xD
It woulndt really have helped much, the pc itself is just a bad combination of components.
@@mactep1At least on calls and on idle it would have helped a lot
@@haxboi5492 with a fan controller app he could have also just set it on a profile for those calls.
but personally, just having good components for the thing that needs to be cooled makes it a lot more quite. like, for the i9 i made sure the temperature capability of the cooler could handle the cpu. and then changed the fan speed a bit to where its within acceptable ranges while still being mostly quiet. a soft soothing hum. normal conversation volume would over power the sound.
and for just a normal low load, you could technically get away with the fan being off entirely with a good air cooler. which you cant really do using a water cooler solution.
To do what in the bios? Reduce the fan speed so that they rotate less quickly and are quieter? So that they cool less and the box is too hot again?
That's a great idea.
I was not expecting to laugh out loud watching this but you got me four times
I can hear you laughing reading this comment😆
@@properprinting TBF if someone told me they could hear me laugh 350km away I’d probably believe them.
This is one of the best "how to NOT do it" videos out there. Much appreciated. 🤣
Anyhow, I recommend you simple put your entire PC into a different room, connecting your usb devices and screens using fiber optical cables such as AOC DisplayPort, Fiber HDMI and Fiber USB. Add in an USB hub, and two such cables should suffice.
Maybe The Real Treasure Was the Friends We Made Along the Way.
The satisfaction of pressing the button and having everything work is all joy and bliss.
The janky table saw *chefs kiss*
So moral of the story is first to try a different cooling solution, lol. Great video, there's no better way to learn than to try. And thanks for sharing, it was a fun project to watch. Best!
I want to applaud you, for consistently creating enjoyable videos. I always look forward to your video postings. Your editing, ideas and execution of your insane ideas are mile above what all the other content creators in the 3d printing realm are creating. You have the best 3d printing content on youtube by miles!
I watched this whole video. At the beginning I was just like, "fool, just buy a case with some actual ventilation and airflow and some lower RPM fans". At the end of the video I subscribed as this was just so EXTRA and I'm here for whatever this mans brain comes up with!
Did anyone else here figure that he was going to install the brown and tans at some point.. then realize that the whole project was a waste of time? I did lmao.
Just wow. Love the work and the results but most of all the honesty. The fact that he develops this solution to the mm accuracy IN the cabinet to then realise that it doesn't quite fit under the desk is priceless. Impossible not to identify myself with this 😂
It sounds like the the fans were set wrong PWM or DC and they were constantly running full speed.
No they are literally 3000 RPM industrial fans. They can't go silent because their adjustment range is too small.
@@razorblade7108 looooool
Just found your channel, it's great man. You deserve to have millions of subscribers and I think if more people knew about your channel then you would. Your videos are so entertaining and educational at the same time. Thanks for putting out such awesome content, keep it up. I can totally see you having a massivee TH-cam following one day.
Your dedication to "cinematic" filming is next level! Pretty impressive👏
Cinematic Engineering at its finest!
That annoyed with youself doing it the second time expression is such a mood.
I cracked up when you redid the panel while looking at the camera LOL
The squishy white grills and the cable passthrough grommets were my favorite part of this video.
I really like the creative approaches! Thanks for being part of the project 😃
Beautiful work. You have a new subscriber.
@@squelchstuff 😃
Incredible work as always!
Very cool project!
One idea for improvement: Arrange the fans differently. You want more fans pushing air into the case than fans extracting air. This is to create positive pressure inside the case, meaning you will have air "leaking" out of any cracks. This is good because otherwise you might get dust sucked into the case through these cracks which is supposed to end up in the filters instead. Also use fans made for high static pressure instead of high airflow when you're pushing air though a filter.
Instead of getting a bigger case so you can use larger and/or more quiet fans, lets build a case for the case.
Very Rube Goldberg solution, I laughed when he bought Noctua 120mm fans for the box, then replaced the water cooler with one using Noctua Fans. A shortcut might have been to use Noctua fans in the very beginning replacing the cooler fans. But he did it and the lessons learned along the way, and the content created, make the effort worth it. As an IT guy, the damping box solution works and so therefore it is good. My inner engineer tells me to try the simpler solution is more elegant.
Basically this video shows a step by step how to make awesome power button.
Hello friend, you could have:
1- sold your very noisy computer
2- bought a quiet new pc
3- enjoyed your coffee much earlier!
Like me right now with my tea ;)
But I Always admire your creations :)
this whole video was about an open case design, inside a case 🥰
I know you wont see this, but the front of your case was choking the water cooler, that was probably the main issue
I love everything about this project, including the cabinet not fitting under the desk and going straight for maximum overkill instead of examining the existing thermal solution. This is exactly the type of stuff that I would do lol
I normally would suggest people to reduce the sound emission before trying to dampen in. But clearly it makes a much better video the other way around. 😂
There were so many cool ideers in this one video. I fucking loved it. 👍
Think positive, with a proper root cause analysis, we would not have had this amazing video ;)
Am I missing something? Sure this is a cool project und fun Video as always, but regardless of passive noise isolation, you have to control your fanspeed, why run them on 100% all the time?
I mean this being an engineering channel, the sensible solution should at least be mentioned.
Good point! And now I realize that I haven't explained this. In the beginning, I exaggerate it because I think it's funny. Later on when I held the microphone in front of the cabinet, it was the actual sound. I thought that I could run them slow indeed, but the lowest they go is still very loud. One step slower and they just stall. You can hear them going from stalling to spinning up constantly when I haven them in "silent" mode. Hopefully this makes sense!
@@properprinting Huh I would have never thought that those industrial Noctua fans are so loud event at their low range RPM.
I hope I didn’t sound to negative. I love your work and exploration at the fringes of 3D printing tech.
And this project is cool regardless, just the industrial vibe of this setup is worth it on its one.
@@properprinting just buy quiet fans instead
@@properprinting you probably have them running in pwm mode, try running them in DC mode and I bet you can get them to run slower. Unlike a arduino or esp, you can't control the pwm frequency from the motherboard, so running them in DC mode will let you control them using voltage and you won't get any pwm noise as well.
16:00 Inside, I would use mounting foam faster and cheaper, but that's not what the project is about, the main goal is to have fun and learn new techniques. If the goal was quiet cooling, he would use water cooling or some other liquid.
So you made your PC enclosure "Earthquake proof".
About using infill for filters.
I also do this as you can easily change the density by changing the infill percentage.
I didn't see any mass dampeners did you?
If anything he made his PC into a swingamajig
@@iamdmc Just to fill you in on the 'joke'.
He lives close to where I live and here in Groningen we have had quite a few earthquakes due to gas extraction.
The house I live in already has been demolished and rebuilt (total of 30 houses in our street at once, lots more in progress) and our house has been rebuilt on top of base isolation sliders. (friction pendulum) These are essentially two concave discs on top of eachother with a big ice-hockey puck inbetween.
The idea is that this will eventually slide back into the center position. Only has a bit more friction compared to the swing setup he made.
But I guess the cables and the foam on the side will also act as dampeners.
Anyway, it was meant as an inside joke.
The genuine child like excitement when your printed power button, was first tested and worked, brings such joy. Especially to me, when all my projects seem to fail.
I am being pedantic but I think that mechanical switch you made is NAND instead of OR
Thank you I thought I was the only one that noticed
I approve this video 😆
Bruh... So much wasted potential.... 1. Your foam does nothing in there except keep heat in. Real audio diffusion foam is HARD, I suspect you have the Chinese knock-off stuff that we all were duped into buying. 2. You need something high density to dampen the interior, for example drywall or cement. You can also buy damping material made for this like a thick tar-like sticky pad that you glue onto the inside of the cabinet. 3. Put baffles in corners. Just google Acoustic Corner Bass Trap 4. Why put a cabinet in your cabinet when you could... put PC components in the cabinet! Just mount alu plate with standoffs directly to the inside wall of IKEA cabinet and mount components directly to that. TIP: Look at DIY perks channel on TH-cam for lots of awesome details 5. Hang the ikea cabinet under your desk so you can strip down all the wires and get a vacuum cleaner under it.
agreed, I have my home theater pc in my entertainment center and within the cabinet is basically just a test bench made out of scrap plywood but the cabinet is layered with mass loaded vinyl, its a sheet of ridiculously heavy rubber used for sound proofing walls of commercial buildings.
I think the foam he's using is the same he's using on the walls, but that's for reducing reverb, not sound dampening, and it's probably not great at that either.
This solution was such a over the top way to get to a conclusion you could have done with just a couple of new parts or just a larger chassis. Like deciding you have a fly problem and best way to get rid of them is a m1 abrams. That being said it was a deeply enthralling video because of your personality, the absolute tinkerer brain you had throughout the whole process, and the improvisation you made work for the project. Ultimately a fail but the process was what made this video so worthwhile and entertaining.
Way easier would have been to let the PC auto start after power outage (setting in BIOS) and then control the power with a smart socket. That's what I do and works perfect.
Get AMD next time
I give a all the credit in the world for sticking with that project. I would have just got some long cables and stuck it in a closet.
Next time, buy AMD.
Such a shame. All this work for a PC that will break in 6 months due to CPU degradation.
This was a bad design for bad idea. It would be hard to call this overkill since it didn't actually do its job. I appreciate you showing your fails and I'm still subbed. Keep up the work!
You probably figured but for a sound proof design you need tick MDF and Mass Loaded Vinyl. The opening should have a labyrinth style tunnel with walls covered in triangular foam to scatter sound while it tries to escape.
Noctua loves this content
It's the journey and not the destination that counts.
What a great trip you had and thx for having us with you all the way.
Impressive skills, impressive oversights and a perfect video resulting
You bought noisy AF fans to fix thermals. Then built a soundproof box to fix sound and make the thermals horrible again. Nice🎉
I Love this video! My eyes are watering from laughter. Thank you for sharing this. You are a master of entertainment, the timing of your punch lines are spot on, even if your saw cuts arent.
You inspired me to solve a problem so much simpler than I had planned.
I have a motorized desk and I want to hang my PC under it. Instead of using metal brackets I should use just the baseplate and some strings to hang it. That is so much simpler and easier! Brilliant.
I just have to say, that feeling you probably had when you turned it on inside the cabinet for the first time is too familiar. I felt it watching this. Even though it doesn’t feel good, I hope people can watch this and say they were inspired rather than being overly critical of a first attempt at a difficult project. I mean yea it didn’t work great, but it did work kind of and you probably gained some knowledge along the way which is always important. I watched this and I did feel that moment of disappointment, but holy shit you gave me so many ideas for things I want to do for my PC. Both inside and outside. Especially that power button. Honestly I would like to remake that cabinet for something that doesn’t need to be right next to me like my printer. Make that bigger, reduce ventilation, and change the suspension system and a bed slinger could sit in there printing all day in a corner printing and nobody would know. Great video man. Thank you.
This video was 100%. Every project has some little oversight in it that just makes me slap my head at least once.
I'm currently building a 3D-printed NAS case, specifically the "Modcase MASS", which exists in a free and paid version. It also uses infill for air filters and it really does work great. Their models come in 2 parts, one for the structure and one for the filters (overlapping of course, so the connect) and use different print settings for the filters: no perimeters, no top/bottom layers and infil-% with grid pattern depending on nozzle sizes (usually 40% for 0.4mm).
As for your build: my god that's an awesome and appropriately over-engineered solution, it's just glorious! Side note: your fans alone cost more than my entire case combined.
Nifty project! I built myself a sound proof box for a compressor recently- the thing is way louder than any PC, it's deffening. It's still loud but it works- makes a significant difference. For me, it's basically just a box with some foam on the inside with as many extra pillows and blankets as possible on the outside- it's got a mini box fan intake and an air outlet to keep it cool. I use it for air assist while laser cutting/engraving so it runs a lot when I'm doing a job.
After the whole journey, the last 20 seconds were the best.
I had to laugh so hard
I love how an Ikea cabinet has it's own theme song here. Just addressing the elephant in the room.
That is one proper computer cabinet and an equally proper power button! The best part, however, is the insiring journey! Thanks!
sure, you can do this, but I just installed the Noctua NH-D15
maintenance free, quiet and more than good enough
I just love watching your videos. It seems like each one is more entertaining yet more informative than the last. Honestly, because of this I watch all your videos, even if it's something I'm not into (like resin printing) cause I know it'll be a fun video and time well spent. Keep pumping out great content!
P.S. I SOOO wish I had a remote power button for my PC. It's a bit of a stretch to reach it under my desk.
Please provide more information on how you used infill to create your screen/filter. That looks like it would have many applications.
If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing. This is the most ridiculous solution to a minor problem I've ever seen, and I loved every second of it. Massive kudos!
A rollercoaster of emotions, packed full of awesome problem solvong. I think you should have mounted it outside 👀
Wow! The journey is what matters. Who cares if it works or not. I have been off 3d printing for a while but you just gave me some motivation to go create/upgrade/destroy things. Man that was something to watch :)
Its hard to believe that this is “just a TH-cam video“. Love the editing, music, shots and story telling. Great job Jon!
That adjustable density filter from the slicer is amazing. That has to be a fantastic way to make screen printing screens too. It already looks like a lithography mask.
I rarely add comments, but this video had me rolling around laughing the whole time... you just condensed down my last several years' experience with "this server is too loud, how should I handle that?" into ~26 minutes. Every time another thing happened I was like, "YES THAT ONE TOO OMG". 😆
Thank you for including all the "fails" as well as the end result!
The video was a real treat to watch! I was so invested in your project and hoping for a successful outcome. While there might be more efficient ways to approach this, your method was truly unique and that's what made it so interesting. Looking forward to future videos!
Lol, you put you silent PC into a silencing cabinet. Love it. Lots of takeaways though. Mesh slicing is amazing.
Would be cool to see Dutch people finally disover AC someday
I've been using the infill-as-mesh for a few projects now and absolutely love how they turn out. Laptop fan filters, 40mm R Pi coolers, and some 3d printer additions that really give an amazing look. Much happier with it than when I tried to model in mesh back a few years ago.
It never was the fans but the pump all along. Loved the video! Amazing work
I once had a full ATX tower which was specifically designed for sound isolation. It was from a german engineering company which name I can't recollect. One of the things they did to damper the sound, was using a tar-coated fabric on the panels. Not sure if it was actual tar, but it didn't smell at all, and the tower was super silent
I am literally in the process of doing a very similar project and kept saying to myself while watching your video, "If this works, I am over-engineering what I am doing."
If you want to try again, try a duct system with a muffler for ventilation, use r10+ foam board for walls, Add a layer of drywall on the outside with a membrade of mass load vinyl in between. All cracks should have dense sealant. The goal is density with bouncing layers.
Very cool project! Well done. I made a remote PC starter out of a wireless doorbell and a relay once for a similar reason. I love that electroplated button though!
The best part was taking us along for the journey! :) Cheers!
Massively overengineered, problem solved by going back to the original thing you didn't want to change, new desk needed to store the new cabinet under...
I loved it. What a journey and what a great way to power on your PC.
Ya gotta love engineers. I thoroughly enjoyed this video. I appreciate the edge of the chair drama (and humor)! Bravo young Jedi.
Your 4 ropes that are holding up the PC, rope will want to creep gradually. Hopefully those stopper knots are all mighty
Now this is my kind of project. Completely overengineered solutions to problems that have already been solved is my forte.
i laughed so hard when you said "measure once, cut twice" it was perfect with your accent. Thank you.
No idea how this was in my recommendations, but what an awesome project.... the joy at 22m15s... subscribed