Hi Brad, Really appreciate the time you took to make & illustrate this video. I am currently rebuilding a 696 and this series has given a great understanding of this engine. Many thanks mate
My bike is sat ready to do this job tomorrow. 2013 Ducati Monster 696, 8.5k miles(due at 7.5k previous owner didn't do it but did have the belts replaced). I can confirm the old 5mm and 6mm allen key belt tension does not work like iit did on the old engines, there's barely 1mm with the belts set at the 145hz tension for new belts on the 696. I measured my belts after 500 miles and they're at 127hz. Don't forget to put a rag under the closer collet as it's easy to drop the half moon retainers down the oilway that goes inside the engine, either a rag or something to block it just incase.
Ever just replaced the collets to close up closing clearances? Ever had a valve with a slight shoulder developed on the collet groove which stops the closing shim from coming off. 😤 Ever had an pinch between the rockers when rotated? (Badly worm 450 cam for me)
chris, i did back in the early days, but the problem then is that the collets always wear a little bit initially and then settle, so there's clearance every time. replace collets every time or shim it a couple of times then it's fine? up to the person doing it really. 8mm are particularly prone to the ridge ime. i sometimes get in there with a little file and file the stem to remove it. have to be careful of the grit getting in, but it can be the only way to do it. if you can get even force to opposite sides of the shim you can pop them, which ime tends to take the ridge off with it.
Hi Brad amazing video, just one question (probably a stupid one so forgive me) the manual says to do the valve clearance check with the piston at TDC... But if the piston is there how do you push the valve down to hold the rocker down? Does it not hit the piston crown? Thank a lot!
i don't understand how anyone could do it correctly reading the manual. it's just cryptic at best, and the info you need is not in the order it needs to be to make sense. and it sounds like they're doing it with the belts on, which is the first issue. you can check them at tdc if you really want to, but you don't adjust them at tdc. with the belts off, it becomes irrelevant where you put the piston. but how you do it is up to you.
Hi Brad, would the clearance measurements make a difference if I don't remove the belts? Let's say I still have newish belt and just want to measure clearance and shim size so I would know what size shim to order.
I hope you still check the comments on here, cause I need some help. So the vertical head went pretty easy, I adjusted everything to be right in the middle of tolerances. Now this freaking horizontal head is giving me a headache. I adjusted the intake went ok. The exhaust side went ok, but when the time came to slide the opening rocker over the valve close but no cigar. I’ve tried wiggling the cam but no luck, I can only move the cam so far in each direction. Nothing is in the cylinder. Any ideas on how to go about this?
sometimes you need to push the valve down as you slide the rocker across. bit hard to do, but it's a single movement sort of thing. remove the opening shim or fit a smaller one and if the rocker goes across you know it's otherwise ok.
that's how it should be. there's a section of cam rotation where both valves are closed and there should be no load at all on the cam. remove the opening shims and see if that helps.
Hello brad… I have a monster 796 and about 2 days now I hear this hard noise when accelerating about 3,000 RPM and also some point when slowing down my front head kinda goes off and on… ☹️ Can you please advice.. Thanks
Is there a reason you check the clearances with the cam just starting to open the other side? i.e you say to check intake clearances after rotating the cam back until the exhaust valve just starts to open. The factory service manual does not say to do this. Does this give you more accurate measurements, etc?
it's referred to as rocking, and it ensures that the valve you are checking is on the base circle of the cam. it's just the easiest way to know that the valve you want to check is shut - turn the cam till it stops and one valve starts to move - check the other. it shouldn't really make any difference to the measurement made, but it depends on how round the cam base circle is. you might see a little variation at times. for instance i check guzzi twins at tdc, but some people say you should do it when the opposing valve is rocking as it makes them quieter. which just means you're setting the clearance tighter using the same spec in a different place sort of thing. so it depends. i always do the ducati 2v at the rocking of the other valve, or do the 4v at the middle of the base circle (no rocking there). you can do it any way you want.
@@bradthebikeboy Thanks for the reply! That's very interesting. When I did the adjustment on my Monster 796 last year, I noticed that the clearances were noticably larger while "rocking" the cam. I decided to shim the valves at TDC instead. They are in spec, but towards the upper end of the spec range. I've been trying to chase down a clatter or ticking noise that comes on between 3k-4k RPM, so I wonder if I redo the adjustments based on the rocking method will fix that. Maybe a little weekend experiment.
@@bradthebikeboy If I recall correctly, somewhere around .02mm. For the opening shims on the horizontal cylinder, it basically came down to the shim being just in spec while rocking the cam, or just out of spec if checking at TDC. I don't recall if the closer clearances changed depending on method, but the openers sure did.
i'd definitely do the first 2, maybe 3 at 12k. if they stabilise after 36k, maybe go every 24k after that if you really don't want to. i would do it to my own bike. seen a few things with lots of closing clearance and no opening clearance at 12 and 24k.
@@miguelcuevas7566 depends where you are. google ducati engine turning tool. other stuff is home made. you can buy lift tools of varying sorts, never tried any of the 2v ones.
Hi Brad,
Really appreciate the time you took to make & illustrate this video. I am currently rebuilding a 696 and this series has given a great understanding of this engine. Many thanks mate
thank you for taking the time to do this , owning a 796 i have found this a massive help and very inspiring to have a go myself .
Thanks! Perfect way to start a Saturday.
This is really helpful!
The EMS rocker arm depressor tool works great to push down the valve and save your thumb.
My bike is sat ready to do this job tomorrow. 2013 Ducati Monster 696, 8.5k miles(due at 7.5k previous owner didn't do it but did have the belts replaced). I can confirm the old 5mm and 6mm allen key belt tension does not work like iit did on the old engines, there's barely 1mm with the belts set at the 145hz tension for new belts on the 696. I measured my belts after 500 miles and they're at 127hz. Don't forget to put a rag under the closer collet as it's easy to drop the half moon retainers down the oilway that goes inside the engine, either a rag or something to block it just incase.
145hz is too tight.
Ever just replaced the collets to close up closing clearances?
Ever had a valve with a slight shoulder developed on the collet groove which stops the closing shim from coming off. 😤
Ever had an pinch between the rockers when rotated? (Badly worm 450 cam for me)
chris, i did back in the early days, but the problem then is that the collets always wear a little bit initially and then settle, so there's clearance every time. replace collets every time or shim it a couple of times then it's fine? up to the person doing it really.
8mm are particularly prone to the ridge ime. i sometimes get in there with a little file and file the stem to remove it. have to be careful of the grit getting in, but it can be the only way to do it. if you can get even force to opposite sides of the shim you can pop them, which ime tends to take the ridge off with it.
Hi Brad amazing video, just one question (probably a stupid one so forgive me) the manual says to do the valve clearance check with the piston at TDC... But if the piston is there how do you push the valve down to hold the rocker down? Does it not hit the piston crown? Thank a lot!
i don't understand how anyone could do it correctly reading the manual. it's just cryptic at best, and the info you need is not in the order it needs to be to make sense. and it sounds like they're doing it with the belts on, which is the first issue. you can check them at tdc if you really want to, but you don't adjust them at tdc. with the belts off, it becomes irrelevant where you put the piston. but how you do it is up to you.
Hi Brad, would the clearance measurements make a difference if I don't remove the belts?
Let's say I still have newish belt and just want to measure clearance and shim size so I would know what size shim to order.
i have never done it that way to know.
I hope you still check the comments on here, cause I need some help. So the vertical head went pretty easy, I adjusted everything to be right in the middle of tolerances. Now this freaking horizontal head is giving me a headache. I adjusted the intake went ok. The exhaust side went ok, but when the time came to slide the opening rocker over the valve close but no cigar. I’ve tried wiggling the cam but no luck, I can only move the cam so far in each direction. Nothing is in the cylinder. Any ideas on how to go about this?
sometimes you need to push the valve down as you slide the rocker across. bit hard to do, but it's a single movement sort of thing. remove the opening shim or fit a smaller one and if the rocker goes across you know it's otherwise ok.
hello man , when you are reffering to .13 , .15, .20,...are these mm or inch . Thank you
mm.
How do you rotate the cam so freely with your hand? mine is nearly impossible to move.
that's how it should be. there's a section of cam rotation where both valves are closed and there should be no load at all on the cam. remove the opening shims and see if that helps.
Hello brad… I have a monster 796 and about 2 days now I hear this hard noise when accelerating about 3,000 RPM and also some point when slowing down my front head kinda goes off and on… ☹️ Can you please advice.. Thanks
without standing next to it and experiencing it, really no idea. never heard one make unusual noises.
Is there a reason you check the clearances with the cam just starting to open the other side? i.e you say to check intake clearances after rotating the cam back until the exhaust valve just starts to open. The factory service manual does not say to do this. Does this give you more accurate measurements, etc?
it's referred to as rocking, and it ensures that the valve you are checking is on the base circle of the cam. it's just the easiest way to know that the valve you want to check is shut - turn the cam till it stops and one valve starts to move - check the other. it shouldn't really make any difference to the measurement made, but it depends on how round the cam base circle is. you might see a little variation at times. for instance i check guzzi twins at tdc, but some people say you should do it when the opposing valve is rocking as it makes them quieter. which just means you're setting the clearance tighter using the same spec in a different place sort of thing. so it depends. i always do the ducati 2v at the rocking of the other valve, or do the 4v at the middle of the base circle (no rocking there). you can do it any way you want.
@@bradthebikeboy Thanks for the reply! That's very interesting. When I did the adjustment on my Monster 796 last year, I noticed that the clearances were noticably larger while "rocking" the cam. I decided to shim the valves at TDC instead. They are in spec, but towards the upper end of the spec range. I've been trying to chase down a clatter or ticking noise that comes on between 3k-4k RPM, so I wonder if I redo the adjustments based on the rocking method will fix that. Maybe a little weekend experiment.
@@dansparrow1821 how much larger?
@@bradthebikeboy If I recall correctly, somewhere around .02mm. For the opening shims on the horizontal cylinder, it basically came down to the shim being just in spec while rocking the cam, or just out of spec if checking at TDC. I don't recall if the closer clearances changed depending on method, but the openers sure did.
@@dansparrow1821 i wouldn't be concerned at all about 0.02mm.
What is the valve cleaners space of monster 696 2011?
valve clearances? as i say in the video, i use 0.10mm for the openers, and as close to zero without drag for the closers.
Is it really necessary to have the valves serviced every 12.000ks?
i'd definitely do the first 2, maybe 3 at 12k. if they stabilise after 36k, maybe go every 24k after that if you really don't want to. i would do it to my own bike. seen a few things with lots of closing clearance and no opening clearance at 12 and 24k.
Hey mate, just wanted to know where could I purchase those special tool youve got there
which tools are you referring to?
@@bradthebikeboy like degree wheel, valve lift guage
@@bradthebikeboy btw. I really appreciate you for doing this video
@@miguelcuevas7566 depends where you are. google ducati engine turning tool. other stuff is home made. you can buy lift tools of varying sorts, never tried any of the 2v ones.