1198 cam timing

Checking cam timing on an 1198 engine. I expect this one had been got at before, so I didn't actually adjust anything. Sorry for the sniffling through it, it annoyed me watching it so it'll probably annoy you too. I probably needed a good drink.

[@anthonycrisafulli9126]

Thank you so much this is great , love to see cam belt change 1198
from you . Again thanks for all your efforts.

[@bradthebikeboy]

i'm taking a very slow approach to editing that one.

[@Number63fr]

Hey Brad :)
Love the video, it's always nice to see you talk and explain how and why you do it :)
I just have a question about the centerline calculations. I don't really understand why you substract the inlet opening/exhaust closing. I'm surely missing something but I can't seem to see it ^^
Anyways, cheers for the video, and thanks again for the work you've already put online, it's really a goldmine of information :D

[@sabamacx]

Draw yourself a diagram. It'll become apparent immediately.

[@bradthebikeboy]

because that's how the maths works to relate the centreline point to tdc.

[@Number63fr]

@@bradthebikeboy Oh yeah I understand now. For some reason I thought about the half duration of the cam without thinking that we reference from TDC and not the inlet opening. Makes sense now, thanks :)

[@unemployedducatista9997]

Brad do you overtension the belts when doing cam timing on 1100 2v engines?
If so to what value? 200Hz?

[@bradthebikeboy]

no.

[@glennmac9127]

HI Brad, do you use 105 centre-line timing for all the 848/1098/1198 engines? and is this a result of dyno testing?

[@bradthebikeboy]

pretty much. we started using it on the 998S inlets and then Tom started playing with exhaust cams and he went as far as 103 and found that worked without any downside.

[@zx9b2]

Brad do you recommend 105/105 for the 1098 motor as well?

[@bradthebikeboy]

i use 105/103 on the s cam 999 and the 1098 and 1198 as a general rule. although some of the 1198 i find need some more spark advance at idle to stop them stalling, so if i'm going to be flashing an ecu as well i'll use that. if not i'd go the 105/105 or so on them. it's the increased overlap that seems to do them in, and a couple of degrees can really provoke them. doesn't worry the 999 or 1098 it seems.

[@sigma_kappa]

NFI what the hell you are doing but I'm impressed with the use of the coat hanger

[@bradthebikeboy]

coat hanger wire is great. strong, but easy to work with for all sorts of shit.

[@vauzweirad]

Only did this on a 2V 1100 engine, my readings where way off until I realized I didn't remove the valve clearance enough with a suitable feeler gauge, mine was to thin.
Is there no need to compensate valve clearance on 4V engines?

[@bradthebikeboy]

i don't do that on any engine. it should only be 0.1 - 0.15, which is about 1 degree.

[@vauzweirad]

@@bradthebikeboy Interesting. I was missing 10° of opening duration when using a 0.1 feeler gauge with a 0.13 clearance. After using the right one, all was fine.

[@bradthebikeboy]

that's not right at all.

[@surfmyster4882]

Brad, is it possible to do this with the motor still bolted to the frame? I have a 999 and doing my shims right now. I'd love to be able to do this at the same time>

[@bradthebikeboy]

of course.

[@surfmyster4882]

@@bradthebikeboy Have one more question, sorry if I,m being a bother. Can you reuse shims? I have one shim that is measured 2.956mm and I need a 2.95 both opening shims. Can i just sand down the one shim to fit and reuse it?? All 16 shims were out of spec and it's $325 for them all at the dealer

[@bradthebikeboy]

@@surfmyster4882 absolutely, do it all the time.