Ducati DS style 2V belt fitting and tension - 659, 696, 796, 1000. 1100 engines
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 เม.ย. 2020
- Setting the belt tension on a Ducati S2R1000.
Filmed and edited by me using a GoPro Hero 7 Black and Microsoft Movie Maker. This was my first GoPro video, and I ended up with a HEVC file that it turns out Movie Maker is more than happy to deal with. But I used "wide" field of view which gives the somewhat annoying fish eye effect. And the camera location is too far forward. I tend to set the tripod up and shoot sometimes when I have an appropriate bike on the bench, and often don't realise I've made a bad choice until I get to editing it and see it looks a bit crap. Lesson learned.
Saved in Movie Maker using the "TH-cam" setting.
Love your work more please, thank you.
Awesome. This is huge nice text book for maintaining my monster by my hands. Thanks Brad. -from opposite of earth-
Thanks Brad, top work!
Gday Brad
Thank you for the help with these videos.
Good video! what belt tension (frequency) would you recommend for an '05 ST3? I have seen anything between 98 and 110 hz. Thanks
i use 110.
Awesome video. Thanks. I’ve been using gates for a while and like it. Interesting discussion on tension. We have two 695 monsters, would you recommend 100hz for this engine? Do you think there’s a limit to how many times belts can be removed and installed for servicing before new ones are needed? FYI ultimate tabs make an app which has a tuner which I find a little more consistent.
i do the trad 2v by feel, but 110 is what i would use if i had to do that. i did some videos on them at are on the mikes machines channel. i see no reason for there to be a limit - how many times do you need to pull them off?
bradthebikeboy thanks! The bike’s had the cylinder head off a couple of times which meant removing the belts repeatedly. I can’t really see why that would be a problem but it’s good to know your take on it. Loving all the vids, thanks :)
Hi, Thanks for useful video and tips. I have a 99 Monster carburetors it is 146 Hz for vertical and 121Hz for horizontal. Would you keep these values with new belts? The tensions are for hot engine correct? Thanks ;)
all belt tensioning is done with the engine cold. i don't use the frequency method for the traditional 2v engines. i do them by feel. the procedure for them is in a video on the mikes machines channel - th-cam.com/video/VwuFs38XV6E/w-d-xo.html
@@bradthebikeboy Thank you! 🙂👍🏻
Good vid Brad.
Can I just ask, what difference does it make where the timing marks are when you check the tension? Aren't the belts at the same tension no matter what position they are in?
Cheers
Todd
the closing springs exert a force on the cam when the valves are open. it does make a measurable difference.
Hi there, thank you for your very informative video. Could I clarify with you what frequency reading app you are recommending. I couldn't find it. Maybe my bad spelling. Further, is the 2008 model 696 set to the same 100 Hz ? Cheers
the apps i use are n_Track Tuner, Gates CarbonDrive or Conti Tension2Go. i tend to use the n-track tuner as it's more basic and easy to use in my experience. i use the same spec on all the ds based engines.
@@bradthebikeboy Thank you for your help and have a merry Christmas..
Hello Brad, first thank you for that really helpful video. I have a question, i own an MTS 1000S, in the manual workshop the recommended tension is 140hz for both cylinder. Everywhere on forums i can read that the correct tension has changed from 140 to 110, but i couldn't find any official update paper on the web, so why pros suggest to lower the tension to 110? Thanks you and sorry for my English im not fluent speaker.
because 140 can make them noisy when hot, when the cams start to break through the oil film and hit the head surface. i would use 110 on a 1000 and 100 on an 1100, as they changed the cams a little around 2006 and they were more prone to being noisy when hot with too tight a belt. there was a ducati service bulletin about it at some point, after july 2007 i guess as i never saw it.
@@bradthebikeboy thank you so much for your reply, ok it makes sense to me now with those explanations, so i'll continue With 110hz on my 1000ds, fantastic engine BTW
Hi Brad, I changed my belts (2009 Monster 1100) today mainly based on your instructions- many thanks! Hugely appreciated!
Quick question: as I removed the old belt my top pulley remained in its position but when I was about to fit the new belt on, I notice that it had moved. To bring it back to the marked position, I rotated it counter-clockwise. Does that sound fine to you?
Also- what do you think about using the old 5mm hex key belt tensioning method? i.e. where you place a 5mm hex key between the tensioner and the belt and then tighten the tensioners.
Many thanks in advance,
Fin
you would put the cam where ever your marks required it to be. the marks should be an absolute.
did i not mention the 5mm hex key thing? i thought i would have. it's not relevant to the ds style engines. at all.
@@bradthebikeboy So one can turn the pulley both clockwise and anti-clockwise and as long as the marks align, there shouldn't be a problem. Right?
Duly noted re: the 5mm hex key.
Many thanks Brad! Amazing content by the way. So glad I came across your channel!
@@gh51popescu you can turn the cam any way you like. just put it back together with the marks lined up.
buenas Brad ,genial tus videos ,saludos desde barcelona ,españa. yo tengo la mts 1000ds, y cambie las correas y me aparecio ese ruido a cojinete unas vez se calienta el motor ,pero por mas que afloje las correas lo sigue haciendo,podras darme algun consejo? te lo agradeceria mucho!
El ruido está ahí todo el tiempo o sólo cuando hace calor? si está ahí todo el tiempo, son sólo los cinturones acomodándose. A menudo, pueden tardar algún tiempo en calmarse.
@@bradthebikeboy gracias por tu respuesta Brad, cambie las correas por unas de marca Dayco, no eran originales ,el ruido lo hace a los +/- 5 minutos de encender la moto, a unas 2.000rpm. lo oigo cuando sobre todo reduzco, a unas 2.000rpm que es cuando más se oye,si apreto embrague desaparece, pero aún con el embrague apretado vuelve aparecer si acelero, cambie los cojinetes de los tensores,al final puse correas originales ducati me falta probar los cojinetes fijos muchas gracias por tu tiempo!
@@Antonio-mr2kv
Los cinturones nuevos de una marca diferente a menudo pueden remodelar un poco las poleas, y ese es el ruido que se escucha. Si las correas nuevas y genuinas hicieron que el ruido desapareciera, supongo que eso fue lo que sucedió con las correas Dayco.
Thanks so much for this video. So can I use this method on my 2009 Hypermotard 1100S? Will it have those marks on the pulleys? Also sorry for the dumb question but does a DS engine mean it’s a desmodromic engine or Dual Spark??? Thanks
DS means Dual Spark, which is how the updated cylinder head design (cam running directly in head) for the 2v models was introduced in 2003. it was 1000ds only at that point. when the small block engine was updated in 2008 with the same head design for the m696, it was only a single spark plug per cylinder engine, but the head design is otherwise identical, so i call those engines the "ds style" 2v as opposed to the "traditional" 2v. the m1100, mts1100 and hm1100 were all still dual spark, but the 1100 evo series engine in m and hm went back to single spark only. when the 1100 was introduced into the scrambler it went back to dual spark.
@@bradthebikeboy thanks so much for your quick reply Brad. So my 1100 hyper should have those marks on the cam pulleys and crank. I think I’ll get one of those cam alignment tools also just to be super sure. 👍🏻
@@bradthebikeboy Brad I just tried to order one of those cam alignment tools from CA cycle works but postage is like $70!! The tool is only $9. Do you sell these tools at all? I know your in Oakleigh and I’m only a 30min Drive from you so if you have them in stock or sell them could you please let me know. Thanks 👍🏻
@@warrenscott2679 i don't stock them, but i can order one for you on my next order. if you wish to go ahead with it, please email me brad@bikeboy.org
Brad - I love your videos and have been using them for the last two years after discovering them in TH-cam. I have a 2008 S2R 1000 which I bought in 2017 and previously used 140Hz per the Duc Workshop Manual. I did notice that tension doesn’t meet the old technique of letting a 5mm Allen key slip past the tensioner pulley.
I am just changing my belts again and found this video for the S2R - THANKS! Two questions:
1) Am I good with using 110Hz for a 2008 DS engine or should I use 100Hz?
2) Should I be worried about using the old spec of 140Hz as that’s how I tensioned annually when I checked my valve clearances.
Thanks again!
i would use 100 hz on the later ds to stop it getting noisy when hot. but i would have expected it to be noisy when hot at 140. that's really the only reason for the lower tension - the horrid screechy bearing noise they make when really hot.
@@bradthebikeboy Thank you very much. I’ve never had the noise issue with 140Hz even when the oil temp is ~240C but will keep an eye on it and heed tour advice.
Best regards!
Rob
@TheDesmoDude you don't have to use the locking tools if you make marks before removing the old belts.
@@bradthebikeboy why should i make marks, when i align the grain dot to the right position? if all three are in the right position, can i just swap the belts? i don't understand the point of the markings and locking tools...
@@__8o8__ the 659, 696 and 796 don't have marks on the cylinder heads to align the cam dots with. if you don't make marks, you need to use the alignment tools fitted in the threaded holes from the other side. or you can use the method i show in one of my other 696 valve clearance videos, where i set the cylinder to tdc and wind the cam back from inlet opening two or three teeth. you'd need to watch that video to see it in detail. if you don't have a 659, 696 or 796 then it's not an issue.
How do I contact you please
brad@bikeboy.org
Yes....i am first.