That is a daughter, who posed like that when in a beauty school photo shoot. The jewels on her skin were stuck on with karo syrup. And her haiar really looked like that!
Great video. Been doing stained glass for 40 years but I find that I can always learn something new. Thanks for putting on such an excellent instructional video.
Thanks Mark..Since we've been using outer bar for so long, it's easy to overlook the hows and whys that we do it! I hope your subscribed to our channel!
this was so helpful today. It was particularly useful to know about spreading the channel with the fid! I've only used zinc with lead projects so that is EXACTLY the type of tip I needed to hear! Thank you!
I really enjoy your videos! I used your tip on squaring the corners versus a 45 degree miter and it works beautifully. Having the opening in the top corner is helpful for adding the metal insert I use for hanging. It also made it possible for me to add wire inside the zinc all along the the two sides and bottom of the panel with the wire ends connecting to the hangers. I thought this would decrease the chance the hanging hardware would cause the came to pull away.
Thank you! One of my main struggles is the framing and I always felt I had to do the angled corners, after watching this video I will not do those anymore. Much less stressful. Love your videos and they have helped me so much.
Thanks for your videos you have shown great technical support, I am just waiting for a course to start by were I live, and am eager to start, your videos are oh so useful to me. Thank you for showing the does and don't.
I like your video on zinc came, but I bought a Mighty Mite 4" table saw at Harbor Freight on your recommendation, and it's a piece of junk...and I couldn't even get the large, aluminum nuts loosened to change the blade. So I haven't been able to even try it on the zinc, but I watched a couple reviews of people trying to cut wood and stone with different blades, and it performed horribly. I'm returning it, which means a two-hour round trip. I was so excited about having an easy way to cut the came. What I ended up doing is using a jig-saw with a blade suitable for metal. Not ideal, but it works.
The Mighty Mite Saw is only good if you are using with a jarmac replacement blade on zinc. I don't think of it as a wood working saw at all. A comment from a viewer recommends www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html?_br_psugg_q=cutoff+saw this saw which looks pretty good, I haven't tried it but I think I will..
1/4" rings will work, if it's hanging horizontally you may want three or four rings. Make sure there's no movement as the solder cools or you'll get a cold joint which is weak and may not hold well.
That is a good idea to heat up the zinc as it is so stubborn to take solder. What also helps me a bit is using fine steel wool to clean the surface before fluxing.
I am going to start simple to learn the trade, eventually I want to make my large mandala zen that is on my wall, I think it would be lovely in sunlight.
Thank you this was so informative to me. I had trouble with my zinc pulling away from the panel after three years of hanging and now I know what to do to fix it.
Glad to hear it, you can add extra metal and you can spring load the metal so it holds against the glass tightly. It's also important to design glass with strength in mind. see th-cam.com/video/fglS5LF4LwA/w-d-xo.html for more
Wow, thanks so helpful! I've spent hours trying to find out about framing, Zinc or lead? What size, confusing! Ya got my support, subscriber from Florida.
I appreciate the comment that you guys supply!! I'm on the hobbyist side of this art! 😁I recently created an address sign for my mom, and I really wanted it framed and backlit so that I can hang it outside. Would you two happen to have any content or ideas on executing a piece such as this? Thanks for the very helpful videos!
That's a great idea...but I don't feel my frames are all that good, with the exception of a couple that I have published. Maybe I'll do a video with a couple of friends.
Dear Jeannie and David, Our names are Marina and George, and after taking a couple of stained glass classes, and watching numerous of your TH-cam videos, we are working on our very first project. We are making a window panel, we chose the diamond shape for most of our background, and we are thinking in "framing" the diamonds with two rows of glass, the first one, closest to the diamonds is 2 inches (most are divided in halves and quarters), the outer about 1 3/8 -1 7/16 inches strips. We are planning in "sliding" the panel into the frame of our new window we just had installed. We would like to ask four questions: 1. Would it be best to: 1. Re-enforce the panel inserting the copper re-strip in two diagonal lines, running parallel from each other, from the top left to the right side of the panel approximately 4-5 inches from the bottom...? 2. Re-enforce the panel running the copper re-strips from top to bottom, diagonal, forming a cross, intersecting in the middle of the panel. We watched your video where you show we fold the strip in the intersection also you show how we need to be sure to fold the re-strip at the very end instead of cutting it right at the border. 2. Would our panel be in jeopardy if the out most border in all four sides are as narrow as 1 3/8 -1 7/16 inches...? 3. If our window must measure exactly 26 inches by 50 inches, how much should we allow for the 1/4 inch U zinc came 4. Although we have noticed all stained glass work is installed in the inside of a window, the glass man who installed our window tells us he is planning in installing, "sliding", our stained glass panel in the outside of the window. His reasoning is that the wind comes strong directly into the window and he believes the 4mm glass in back would help supporting it. Have you ever heard of that. Any thoughts...?
Since the window is 26 by 50 you may not need extra reinforcement since it has a diamond cross hatch design. Also I'm thinking that putting the stained glass on the outside is not a good idea. The leaded work is much better if it can be protected from the weather. I would love to see photos of your completed project david.gsglass@gmail.com
When I first started out I was using a hack saw to cut zinc. After I got a mighty mite saw (only sold at harbor freight online ) my productivity increased 10 fold.
Hi can you please tell me what tools and equipment should I need to start with making stain glass that will help me through the years, that are a must have, am 61 years old this November and never had a hobby, they do say your never to old to learn.
I just put it up on Etsy and you can find it at www.etsy.com/your/shops/GommStudios/tools/listings/1093480610 It's 7 pages for the pattern, so $7 for the purchase
check out the video th-cam.com/video/jzSB_QZbk0o/w-d-xo.html and feel free to discover other videos at www.gsg-art.com/videos.html at the bottom of the page
@@GommStainedGlass Thank you. I have done small windows in foil but then I stopped in Stained Glass shop and asked about how big I could do a window in foil and they said windows have to be done in lead so I bought all the supplies and wish I had stayed with foil and will from now on.
Hello! Thanks so much for the tutorial, it is very valuable info. I have a piece of painted glass and have to put a zinc bar around in order to hang it but it does not have cooper foil spots tu sudder to. Do I hace to put copper foil and flux to the entire sides before placing the zinc bars to sudder it? Thanks again for your help!
Generally, you can add zinc around a panel and just solder the zinc to itself at the points where it joins the next piece of zinc. It's important that the zinc is strong enough to provide support to the piece.
The outer bar that we use adds 1/8" per edge. It's 1/4" and the glass fits in 1/8" So I try to add 1/8" per side and then an extra 1/16" for wiggle room.
Hi David, love this about zink came, in the UK I am having great difficulty finding this, it is to strengthen the Jenick style lamp shade I am making, and brass and copper are very expensive, so wondered is there any other materials I could use, I flattened some copper wire, it works, but it looks unsightly, open to any suggestions, thank you
Love your videos. I think that you foil all around each glass piece, even when it will be on an edge where the zinc channel will be. Is this necessary?
Thank you for explaining adding the zink bar/frame. I am only on my 2nd project and am already tackling an old window with 3 panes. I have 2 questions: A. Would you add the zink around the stained glass for each single pane? B. I am tempted to leave the original glass in the old window (after removing old caulk and cleaning the old glass). I may put the end product on my front porch and wonder if there is double glass, moisture could get in between the old pane and the new stained glass pane on top.
Adding zinc around each pane or just around the whole piece is a matter of personal choice. Your project sounds simple enough that it will be strong either way. Just make sure to get it very clean so it looks it's best. You could leave the original glass in the old frame, it's a matter of how clean and presentable it looks when it's complete.
It's funny how some of our videos get more views because folks find them for some reason. I hope you are subscribed so you can get notified of the addition videos we put up!
Great video...I am building a panael 36" x 44" adding restrip . Is it better to install zinc frame on first side beore flipping or soldering both sides before framing. Also any flipping tips?
Great question. I would solder the zinc on first. I often add zinc when on the first side or on the second side (which is my preferred method because the solder lines hold the window off of the table a bit so it's easy to get the zinc on.) On flipping a panel over th-cam.com/video/XgbEoPwz7as/w-d-xo.html is specific to flipping a panel, The flipping it over part is on the second half of the video..on it I flip over a large panel that is only soldered on one side so it's a bit wobbly. You can always find a listing of most of our videos at www.gsg-art.com/videos.html at the bottom of the page. 🙂
This video has been more helpful than any other I've watched on youtube so far. Thank you so very much for the tips. I do have a question for you.. I have started painting stain glass and need to solder a frame around my glass but I only have the corners to solder. Will that be strong enough to hang from it?
It could be. (how that for a non specific answer) Things like how much it weighs, how big it is, how wide is your zinc factor in to how well it will work. I did one window which was pretty big that I was concerned about, so I added a second row of 1/4" zinc around the first row and soldered it every 6 inches with an inch of solder so it was firmly attached. Good Luck, we'd love to see a photo of your painted glass you could send it to me to david.gsglass@gmail.com 😀
If I am going to put a panel outside, should I leave the ends of the zinc side pieces unsealed, to allow moisture to escape? (Sometimes called weep holes)
Please put info about zinc saw in chat. Harbor Freight carries a Mighty Might but does not know what blade to recommend. Comes with a 4” blade not recommended for metal. TY
You need a Jarmac Replacement blade. The easy way to get one is to follow this link www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHD2JA2/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran?adId=B00HHD2JA2&creativeASIN=B00HHD2JA2&linkId=dd061c0359ff1af68019086203c9a9a4&tag=gommstudios-20&linkCode=w58&ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.gsg-art.com%2Fstore-stainedglasssupplies.html&slotNum=24&imprToken=rfO44NIGcEwHdirsThsoxw&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=card&impressionTimestamp=1614013522053
I do have a problem. When I put the pieces together I add the flax. Then I sadder. And the tape whither the sadder came of .why is it because I add to much flux or not enough?what I'm doing wrong?
It could be that you need to flex your metal so that it stays more firmly against the glass. Your joints should be held solid as you solder, if that's the case then you shouldn't have any problems. Just make sure to have the zinc nailed well in place so that it's all held firmly. 🙂
Thanks so much for this. I'm getting ready to try my first came piece. now that I've watched this video enough to feel confident enough try ( much thanks to you) I have a question. I noticed you said to be careful not too get a big blob of shoulder on came and the only way to fix is to remove the zinc. I'm curious as to why shoulder can't be removed with iron same as when over shouldering the glass?
Because the solder sticks to the metal and can't be dragged away the way it can on glass. Give it a try, take a small piece of zinc, put solder on it and then try to remove it. You will always have a coating of solder on the zinc. When I talked about avoiding a blob of solder, I was referring to the "L" shaped bit you want on the corner so that each side has a balanced and pleasing look.😀
Need some suggestions on how to replace a broken mirror, inside a floral 4" wide stained glass outer frame. It is a leaded design, round, that has H channel between the mirror and the glass design pieces. There is no backing board. I'm thinking it would be almost impossible without destroying the outside glass border.
There is a mirror that is made to be cut with scissors that we use for kaleidoscopes for younger students. We buy it from Walmart, it's called "Auto Drive Cut and Stick Replacement Mirror, Super Slim Environmental Plastic" You could try it on your glass, otherwise you'll have to take it apart to do the repair. This is one of the many reasons that we prefer the copper foil method, because it's so easy to repair.
Do you ever stretch your came? i saw in one video that it was suppose to make it stronger. thanks for your wonderful explanations. i just liked and subscribed Cant wait to see more.
@@GommStainedGlass I have been watching and learning and i realized that i need to purchase zinc instead of lead. My niece paints stained glass and broke one of her pieces. i fixed it by making it real stained glass, i made mistakes but i learned I used the lead came to frame the piece and had a devil of a time trying to straighten it out. thanks for helping me.
Hi dear, I have a question, How much dimension of inner side of The lead came that u use in your work and which thickness of glass use with it? If inner is 4 mm can we send 4 mm glass or should be less than 4 mm glass? Thank you in advance
it sounds like, to me, that either your pieces are not clean enough for the foil to stick properly or the foil needs to be applied better with the fid before assembly. Something at that point is causing the foil to pull away from the glass when you solder. Hope this helps
We did a video on soldering rings to a frame th-cam.com/video/vVlftXRzZuI/w-d-xo.html for a listing of all videos go to www.gsg-art.com/videos.html and at the bottom of the page you'll find a listing of our videos
I needed to find this video 2 weeks ago... I did a small 45 degree frame and it took me 2 hours to cut it right and a full bar of 1/4 came due to mistakes
I had a student a few years back who had installed mirror tile in a kitchen area. He had gone through a box of tile cutting pieces wrong, till he finally got one that worked. He said I needed this class 2 weeks ago since we learned how to cut glass that evening.
It's a challenge. We use Black Patina which colors it nice and dark, but rubs off easily. So we burnish the zinc with steel wool to rough it up and it takes the patina a little better, but it's still not great.
We generally use 1/2 to 3/4 plywood, but we often use drywall board because it's so easy to drive the nails and remove them. But when anchoring zinc we use plywood.
I measure the amount of light is coming through and then subtract 1/8" from each side (1/4" total) The caulking will fill that 1/8" gap so you won't have fit problems. th-cam.com/video/S0tuDDjlHTE/w-d-xo.html is a detailed install that we did.
Im learning all about this as i want to incorporate my art with some glass work. Your videos are helpful. Im just unsure of one thing - if i want to paint on a circular glass piece, how can i finish the edges? My vision is still developing but im thinking one single circle piece or two soldered circle pieces together. Are zinc bars not suitable to a rounded edge?
I found the Mighty Mite at Harbor Freight just like you said! Thanks so much! but searched Delphi and found 3 "Came saw replacement blades" 7355HDR, and 2 by Gryphon 84122 and 84121. will any of them work?
You want the 4" Jarmac Replacement blade that you can get from Amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHD2JA2/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran?adId=B00HHD2JA2&creativeASIN=B00HHD2JA2&linkId=dd061c0359ff1af68019086203c9a9a4&tag=gommstudios-20&linkCode=w58&ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.gsg-art.com%2Fstore-stainedglasssupplies.html&slotNum=24&imprToken=2cnd9bKU3hGREDqQRZwLAA&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=card&impressionTimestamp=1615927020544
If it's relatively small then no, when it's very large you may wish for the extra strength, this is not necessary, but it is helpful. It's just a judgement call that comes from experience.
My project is 45×27.5 so if I use 3/4 ..inch zinc how much clearance do I cut off my design to accommodate the frame to fit in this opening? This is only the 2nd custom piece I've made that has to fit the opening and I'm scared.thanks for your help Shannon
I would use 1/4" zinc because it is as strong as or more than 3/4". If using 1/4" you lose 1/8" on each side since 1/8" hangs past the glass and 1/8" hangs over the glass. Therefore if using 1/4" zinc, you would cut off 1/8" from each side...in other words 1/4" off the panel total. You may want to shave an additional 1/32" off the total to ensure a good fit.
You can solder after applying patina, some folks recommend that you don't make a practice of it because the patina will be harmful to you iron tip and cause corrosion. I haven't had a problem with that, but it's something to keep in mind.
No, this is zinc not lead. It's not soft and pliable. It's hard and rigid. When it is soldered in place it forms a hard frame work. It's not like lead and doesn't need the same treatment that lead needs. We only use the copper foil method in our studio.
I solder the entire front side (except for the 1/4" next to the edge) I prefer to add my zinc to the other side before soldering the back side...it's just my personal preference.
I thought that you were supposed to tin all the copper foil. However, I see that you didn't tin the copper foil on the edges, where the zinc goes. Is that in case you may need to trim the copper foil after the zinc is soldered on?
I've never found it necessary to tin the outer edge of the copper foil when adding zinc outer bar. I will tin the edge when the glass is going in a wooden frame, but that's just for looks, so that the edge looks uniform with the rest of the panel.
We put water on the sponge and clean the tip when it's hot. If we need to get more aggressive when cleaning, we'll use a sal amoniac block and rub the hot tip against it (with a little solder)
Great question...we prefer 50/50 and here's why, the melting temperature of 50/50 is the lowest of all the mixes of solder, so it soldifies quicker. This results in a better looking joint. We recently did some 60/40 soldering just to make sure and yes..we got better looking lines with the 50/50.
This is the saw I purchased from Harbor freight for zinc came. It has a guide for 90 degree cuts and it also works with angles. The blade that came with it works great with zinc. www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html?_br_psugg_q=cutoff+saw
That's pretty great, I use the 4" saw with a replacement blade but it looks like the 2" blade saw will work and I figure I ought to try one. Thanks for the tip!
You add rings and then attach the chain. We have a page on our website that lists our past videos www.gsg-art.com/videos.html will get you there ..it's at the bottom of the page The title is "Solder Rings On Stained Glass"
Omg! That piece with the face and the crazy hair💕💕💕💕🌈🌈
That is a daughter, who posed like that when in a beauty school photo shoot. The jewels on her skin were stuck on with karo syrup. And her haiar really looked like that!
Thank you for the videos! You do really amazing work. Those pieces in your home are beautiful. I love those panels by the door!
Thank you so much!
Great video. Been doing stained glass for 40 years but I find that I can always learn something new. Thanks for putting on such an excellent instructional video.
Thanks Mark..Since we've been using outer bar for so long, it's easy to overlook the hows and whys that we do it! I hope your subscribed to our channel!
this was so helpful today. It was particularly useful to know about spreading the channel with the fid! I've only used zinc with lead projects so that is EXACTLY the type of tip I needed to hear! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I really enjoy your videos! I used your tip on squaring the corners versus a 45 degree miter and it works beautifully. Having the opening in the
top corner is helpful for adding the metal insert I use for hanging. It also made it possible for me to add wire inside the zinc all along the the two sides and bottom of the panel with the wire ends connecting to the hangers. I thought this would decrease the chance the hanging hardware would cause the came to pull away.
I would love to see a photo of your wire work. You could send it to david.gsglass@gmail.com Thanks so much 😀😀😀
Thank you! One of my main struggles is the framing and I always felt I had to do the angled corners, after watching this video I will not do those anymore. Much less stressful. Love your videos and they have helped me so much.
It's amazing how long I took to figure this simple technique. We're proud of ourselves when we break out on a long held habit.
This was very clear and informative
Thank you
Patricia
😀Thank you, I feel this is one of our top educational video's
Thanks for your videos you have shown great technical support, I am just waiting for a course to start by were I live, and am eager to start, your videos are oh so useful to me.
Thank you for showing the does and don't.
Good Luck with your course, I hope you get a good teacher 😀
I liked the jig for hold up the panel. Great tips!
Thanks, a couple of boards can put you in business right away
I like your video on zinc came, but I bought a Mighty Mite 4" table saw at Harbor Freight on your recommendation, and it's a piece of junk...and I couldn't even get the large, aluminum nuts loosened to change the blade. So I haven't been able to even try it on the zinc, but I watched a couple reviews of people trying to cut wood and stone with different blades, and it performed horribly. I'm returning it, which means a two-hour round trip. I was so excited about having an easy way to cut the came. What I ended up doing is using a jig-saw with a blade suitable for metal. Not ideal, but it works.
The Mighty Mite Saw is only good if you are using with a jarmac replacement blade on zinc. I don't think of it as a wood working saw at all. A comment from a viewer recommends www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html?_br_psugg_q=cutoff+saw this saw which looks pretty good, I haven't tried it but I think I will..
Thank you for showing me a better way to add zinc came than what I was doing.
You are so welcome!
Your tutorials have answered many questions! Thank you!
Thanks for watching. 😀😛😮😎😬🙂🙃
love the vidio. my question is what is the most se ure way to add hangers to the zinc framing on a heavy piece. say 44inch x 13inch thanks
1/4" rings will work, if it's hanging horizontally you may want three or four rings. Make sure there's no movement as the solder cools or you'll get a cold joint which is weak and may not hold well.
That is a good idea to heat up the zinc as it is so stubborn to take solder. What also helps me a bit is using fine steel wool to clean the surface before fluxing.
Both good suggestions and then I make sure to heavily brush the flux on to get rid of oil used in the bending process. 🙂🙂🙂
I am going to start simple to learn the trade, eventually I want to make my large mandala zen that is on my wall, I think it would be lovely in sunlight.
You can do it! Feel free to ask questions as you go along!
Thank you this was so informative to me. I had trouble with my zinc pulling away from the panel after three years of hanging and now I know what to do to fix it.
Glad to hear it, you can add extra metal and you can spring load the metal so it holds against the glass tightly. It's also important to design glass with strength in mind. see th-cam.com/video/fglS5LF4LwA/w-d-xo.html for more
Excellent video
Glad you liked it, I think it's one of our best videos.
Wow, thanks so helpful! I've spent hours trying to find out about framing, Zinc or lead? What size, confusing! Ya got my support, subscriber from Florida.
We only use zinc for framing, lead has a tendency to stretch.
I appreciate the comment that you guys supply!! I'm on the hobbyist side of this art! 😁I recently created an address sign for my mom, and I really wanted it framed and backlit so that I can hang it outside. Would you two happen to have any content or ideas on executing a piece such as this? Thanks for the very helpful videos!
Talk to a local wood worker or metal worker to get some ideas
I really love and appreciate your videos! It would be so great if you could do one on framing with wood!
That's a great idea...but I don't feel my frames are all that good, with the exception of a couple that I have published. Maybe I'll do a video with a couple of friends.
Gomm Stained Glass that would be great, thanks so much for replying!
Dear Jeannie and David,
Our names are Marina and George, and after taking a couple of stained glass classes, and watching numerous of your TH-cam videos, we are working on our very first project.
We are making a window panel, we chose the diamond shape for most of our background, and we are thinking in "framing" the diamonds with two rows of glass, the first one, closest to the diamonds is 2 inches (most are divided in halves and quarters), the outer about 1 3/8 -1 7/16 inches strips. We are planning in "sliding" the panel into the frame of our new window we just had installed. We would like to ask four questions:
1. Would it be best to: 1. Re-enforce the panel inserting the copper re-strip in two diagonal lines, running parallel from each other, from the top left to the right side of the panel approximately 4-5 inches from the bottom...? 2. Re-enforce the panel running the copper re-strips from top to bottom, diagonal, forming a cross, intersecting in the middle of the panel. We watched your video where you show we fold the strip in the intersection also you show how we need to be sure to fold the re-strip at the very end instead of cutting it right at the border.
2. Would our panel be in jeopardy if the out most border in all four sides are as narrow as 1 3/8 -1 7/16 inches...?
3. If our window must measure exactly 26 inches by 50 inches, how much should we allow for the 1/4 inch U zinc came
4. Although we have noticed all stained glass work is installed in the inside of a window, the glass man who installed our window tells us he is planning in installing, "sliding", our stained glass panel in the outside of the window. His reasoning is that the wind comes strong directly into the window and he believes the 4mm glass in back would help supporting it. Have you ever heard of that. Any thoughts...?
Since the window is 26 by 50 you may not need extra reinforcement since it has a diamond cross hatch design. Also I'm thinking that putting the stained glass on the outside is not a good idea. The leaded work is much better if it can be protected from the weather. I would love to see photos of your completed project david.gsglass@gmail.com
Nice job!
Thanks, we love the work!!!
What an educational video. Thank you so much💗
Glad you enjoyed it! 😀😀😀
Would you do a you tube (if you haven't already) on the type of hooks you put on those big stained glass projects!
Sometimes it's just jack chain, other times 1/4 inch hooks, nothing very rugged, if it seems to need more, we just add one or two more
Thanks for your teaching. Is it possible to show how you install the work on the windows? I would love to Lear that. Thanks again.
I have, we have over 400 videoes, check out www.gsg-art.com/videos.html and goto the bottom of the page to see the listing of many of our videos
Great video, can’t wait to try this.
We have an Amazon link on our web site www.gsg-art.com under our Amazon shopping pages for the right blade
Great video. Just started doing stained glass and was wondering how to better strengthen my outer edges and give a finished look. Thanks.
When I first started out I was using a hack saw to cut zinc. After I got a mighty mite saw (only sold at harbor freight online ) my productivity increased 10 fold.
thanks David, another great training video
It seems like such an ordinary subject, because we do it so often. But ..that makes it an important part of making glass.
Beautiful window. When you spread the zinc, did you then make the glass go all the way through the inside of the zinc?
Outer Bar is folded in such a way as to let the glass go halfway through it. So 1/4 outer bar lets the glass run 1/8 inch into it
Hi can you please tell me what tools and equipment should I need to start with making stain glass that will help me through the years, that are a must have, am 61 years old this November and never had a hobby, they do say your never to old to learn.
If you go through our playlists, you can find reviews of tools that will help you to get started.
I really like the Nativity scene piece. Do you happen to sell the pattern?
I just put it up on Etsy and you can find it at www.etsy.com/your/shops/GommStudios/tools/listings/1093480610
It's 7 pages for the pattern, so $7 for the purchase
Hi David, thank you for your awesome classes. If you do not have a wooden frame how do you make hooks to hang glass framed in zinc? Thank you.
check out the video th-cam.com/video/jzSB_QZbk0o/w-d-xo.html and feel free to discover other videos at www.gsg-art.com/videos.html at the bottom of the page
Love my 45 degree angles. 😊
Glad to hear it!
How large a window can be done in foil rather than lead? Appreciate learning how to do Zinc outer bars.
Everything we do is in copper foil. Copper foil is stronger than lead. The thing to look out for is how far you can reach to solder.
@@GommStainedGlass Thank you. I have done small windows in foil but then I stopped in Stained Glass shop and asked about how big I could do a window in foil and they said windows have to be done in lead so I bought all the supplies and wish I had stayed with foil and will from now on.
Excellent tutorial. Best I’ve found!
Wow, thanks!
Hello! Thanks so much for the tutorial, it is very valuable info. I have a piece of painted glass and have to put a zinc bar around in order to hang it but it does not have cooper foil spots tu sudder to. Do I hace to put copper foil and flux to the entire sides before placing the zinc bars to sudder it? Thanks again for your help!
Generally, you can add zinc around a panel and just solder the zinc to itself at the points where it joins the next piece of zinc. It's important that the zinc is strong enough to provide support to the piece.
I have a question. If you are making a window with specific measurements, how much length and width does the zinc outer bar add to the measurements>
The outer bar that we use adds 1/8" per edge. It's 1/4" and the glass fits in 1/8" So I try to add 1/8" per side and then an extra 1/16" for wiggle room.
Hi David, love this about zink came, in the UK I am having great difficulty finding this, it is to strengthen the Jenick style lamp shade I am making, and brass and copper are very expensive, so wondered is there any other materials I could use, I flattened some copper wire, it works, but it looks unsightly, open to any suggestions, thank you
I wish you the best in your search, I used to have UK contacts but they went away. Please let me know when you find some.
Love your videos. I think that you foil all around each glass piece, even when it will be on an edge where the zinc channel will be. Is this necessary?
No it's not but we find it easier to foil around everything as we're in the process.
Thank you for explaining adding the zink bar/frame. I am only on my 2nd project and am already tackling an old window with 3 panes. I have 2 questions:
A. Would you add the zink around the stained glass for each single pane?
B. I am tempted to leave the original glass in the old window (after removing old caulk and cleaning the old glass). I may put the end product on my front porch and wonder if there is double glass, moisture could get in between the old pane and the new stained glass pane on top.
Adding zinc around each pane or just around the whole piece is a matter of personal choice. Your project sounds simple enough that it will be strong either way. Just make sure to get it very clean so it looks it's best. You could leave the original glass in the old frame, it's a matter of how clean and presentable it looks when it's complete.
@@GommStainedGlass Thank you!
Great tips. Thanks!
It's funny how some of our videos get more views because folks find them for some reason. I hope you are subscribed so you can get notified of the addition videos we put up!
Great video...I am building a panael 36" x 44" adding restrip . Is it better to install zinc frame on first side beore flipping or soldering both sides before framing. Also any flipping tips?
Great question. I would solder the zinc on first. I often add zinc when on the first side or on the second side (which is my preferred method because the solder lines hold the window off of the table a bit so it's easy to get the zinc on.) On flipping a panel over th-cam.com/video/XgbEoPwz7as/w-d-xo.html is specific to flipping a panel, The flipping it over part is on the second half of the video..on it I flip over a large panel that is only soldered on one side so it's a bit wobbly. You can always find a listing of most of our videos at www.gsg-art.com/videos.html at the bottom of the page. 🙂
This video has been more helpful than any other I've watched on youtube so far. Thank you so very much for the tips. I do have a question for you.. I have started painting stain glass and need to solder a frame around my glass but I only have the corners to solder. Will that be strong enough to hang from it?
It could be. (how that for a non specific answer) Things like how much it weighs, how big it is, how wide is your zinc factor in to how well it will work. I did one window which was pretty big that I was concerned about, so I added a second row of 1/4" zinc around the first row and soldered it every 6 inches with an inch of solder so it was firmly attached. Good Luck, we'd love to see a photo of your painted glass you could send it to me to david.gsglass@gmail.com 😀
Maravillosa clase. Gracias
Good, I hope you understood it!
If I am going to put a panel outside, should I leave the ends of the zinc side pieces unsealed, to allow moisture to escape? (Sometimes called weep holes)
You could but it's not critical because the metal is folded around and breathes a little
So the DAP silicone goes in AFTER zinc bars are soldered?
The silicone is only applied on the edges during an install. But yes, after the zinc is soldered.
Please put info about zinc saw in chat. Harbor Freight carries a Mighty Might but does not know what blade to recommend. Comes with a 4” blade not recommended for metal. TY
You need a Jarmac Replacement blade. The easy way to get one is to follow this link www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHD2JA2/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran?adId=B00HHD2JA2&creativeASIN=B00HHD2JA2&linkId=dd061c0359ff1af68019086203c9a9a4&tag=gommstudios-20&linkCode=w58&ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.gsg-art.com%2Fstore-stainedglasssupplies.html&slotNum=24&imprToken=rfO44NIGcEwHdirsThsoxw&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=card&impressionTimestamp=1614013522053
@@GommStainedGlass Have not been able to find the 4” saw with 1/2 arbor required. Any other thoughts?
@@anniedugan9397 Click on that link and it should take you to amazon, I just clicked it and it worked fine.
@@GommStainedGlass thanks for your input. I enjoy your Tech Tips.
I do have a problem. When I put the pieces together I add the flax. Then I sadder. And the tape whither the sadder came of .why is it because I add to much flux or not enough?what I'm doing wrong?
It could be that you need to flex your metal so that it stays more firmly against the glass. Your joints should be held solid as you solder, if that's the case then you shouldn't have any problems. Just make sure to have the zinc nailed well in place so that it's all held firmly. 🙂
Thanks so much for this. I'm getting ready to try my first came piece. now that I've watched this video enough to feel confident enough try ( much thanks to you) I have a question. I noticed you said to be careful not too get a big blob of shoulder on came and the only way to fix is to remove the zinc. I'm curious as to why shoulder can't be removed with iron same as when over shouldering the glass?
Because the solder sticks to the metal and can't be dragged away the way it can on glass. Give it a try, take a small piece of zinc, put solder on it and then try to remove it. You will always have a coating of solder on the zinc. When I talked about avoiding a blob of solder, I was referring to the "L" shaped bit you want on the corner so that each side has a balanced and pleasing look.😀
Great video I would love to purchase the Mighty Mit Saw and you said you need a special blade. What would that blade be ?
You want a4" Jarmac replacement blade, Delphi sells them, They have two types and the more costly lasts longer
Thanks you sir!
You are so welcome, we enjoy doing stained glass work and we enjoy sharing what we learn..🙂🙂🙂
Need some suggestions on how to replace a broken mirror, inside a floral 4" wide stained glass outer frame. It is a leaded design, round, that has H channel between the mirror and the glass design pieces. There is no backing board.
I'm thinking it would be almost impossible without destroying the outside glass border.
There is a mirror that is made to be cut with scissors that we use for kaleidoscopes for younger students. We buy it from Walmart, it's called "Auto Drive Cut and Stick Replacement Mirror, Super Slim Environmental Plastic" You could try it on your glass, otherwise you'll have to take it apart to do the repair. This is one of the many reasons that we prefer the copper foil method, because it's so easy to repair.
@@GommStainedGlass thank you so much! ill give that a try! you guys are great!
Do you ever stretch your came? i saw in one video that it was suppose to make it stronger. thanks for your wonderful explanations. i just liked and subscribed Cant wait to see more.
It is true that stretching LEAD came will make it stronger ..this is ZINC came which doesn't stretch and doesn't need anything to make it stronger...
@@GommStainedGlass I have been watching and learning and i realized that i need to purchase zinc instead of lead. My niece paints stained glass and broke one of her pieces. i fixed it by making it real stained glass, i made mistakes but i learned I used the lead came to frame the piece and had a devil of a time trying to straighten it out. thanks for helping me.
I have black patina for lead, but I noticed that there is patina for lead and zinc. can I use my patina for lead on one of these zinc frames?
Check out our video th-cam.com/video/7-6POaqzoFs/w-d-xo.html towards the end we show patina on zinc techniques
Hi dear,
I have a question,
How much dimension of inner side of The lead came that u use in your work and which thickness of glass use with it? If inner is 4 mm can we send 4 mm glass or should be less than 4 mm glass?
Thank you in advance
The out bar we use is 1/4" and the groove inside is 1/8" so it works well with 1/8" glass. 😀😀😀
I forgot to tel you Im trying to make a lamp. Hope you help me.with my problem.
it sounds like, to me, that either your pieces are not clean enough for the foil to stick properly or the foil needs to be applied better with the fid before assembly. Something at that point is causing the foil to pull away from the glass when you solder. Hope this helps
I hope Todd's answer helped
How do you solder the rings on the frame?
We did a video on soldering rings to a frame th-cam.com/video/vVlftXRzZuI/w-d-xo.html for a listing of all videos go to www.gsg-art.com/videos.html and at the bottom of the page you'll find a listing of our videos
I needed to find this video 2 weeks ago... I did a small 45 degree frame and it took me 2 hours to cut it right and a full bar of 1/4 came due to mistakes
I had a student a few years back who had installed mirror tile in a kitchen area. He had gone through a box of tile cutting pieces wrong, till he finally got one that worked. He said I needed this class 2 weeks ago since we learned how to cut glass that evening.
Thank you 🎉
You’re welcome 😊 We do this all the time!
I want to sandwich a 30”x30” stained glass (100 pieces) project in between tempered glass and then add a frame. Do you have video teaching that?
We don't, we've always had insulated units get installed in existing framing, we do have many of those type videos 😀😀😀
@@GommStainedGlass what do I search for to access the video “Title” of video?
@@leciaforster5840 Go to www.gsg-art.com/videos.html at the bottom is a listing of all our videos..You want to look for install videos
love your videos! How do you stain the zinc edge dark if not using a wooden frame?
It's a challenge. We use Black Patina which colors it nice and dark, but rubs off easily. So we burnish the zinc with steel wool to rough it up and it takes the patina a little better, but it's still not great.
What kind of hangers do you use?
We use rings, but there some cool rings available from art stores.
What kind of wood do you prefer to use under your glass projects that makes the nails stay in place?
We generally use 1/2 to 3/4 plywood, but we often use drywall board because it's so easy to drive the nails and remove them. But when anchoring zinc we use plywood.
Thank you! Do you have any advice for measuring when you are doing a window insert? I seem to struggle!
I measure the amount of light is coming through and then subtract 1/8" from each side (1/4" total) The caulking will fill that 1/8" gap so you won't have fit problems. th-cam.com/video/S0tuDDjlHTE/w-d-xo.html is a detailed install that we did.
Im learning all about this as i want to incorporate my art with some glass work. Your videos are helpful. Im just unsure of one thing - if i want to paint on a circular glass piece, how can i finish the edges?
My vision is still developing but im thinking one single circle piece or two soldered circle pieces together. Are zinc bars not suitable to a rounded edge?
We have several videos on adding zinc to a window including circles and octagons. Take a look at our entire list of videos
Great tips ! where is the link?
I wrote the name and where to get it on the screen of the video.
I found the Mighty Mite at Harbor Freight just like you said! Thanks so much! but searched Delphi and found 3 "Came saw replacement blades" 7355HDR, and 2 by Gryphon 84122 and 84121. will any of them work?
You want the 4" Jarmac Replacement blade that you can get from Amazon
www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHD2JA2/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran?adId=B00HHD2JA2&creativeASIN=B00HHD2JA2&linkId=dd061c0359ff1af68019086203c9a9a4&tag=gommstudios-20&linkCode=w58&ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.gsg-art.com%2Fstore-stainedglasssupplies.html&slotNum=24&imprToken=2cnd9bKU3hGREDqQRZwLAA&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=card&impressionTimestamp=1615927020544
If the glass is going to be installed in a wooden window does it need the zinc bar?
If it's relatively small then no, when it's very large you may wish for the extra strength, this is not necessary, but it is helpful. It's just a judgement call that comes from experience.
How do you attach the hangers?
We show how on our video about rings. We solder the rings to the corners of the back of the panel. If 4' or more we add one in the center.
My project is 45×27.5 so if I use 3/4 ..inch zinc how much clearance do I cut off my design to accommodate the frame to fit in this opening? This is only the 2nd custom piece I've made that has to fit the opening and I'm scared.thanks for your help Shannon
I would use 1/4" zinc because it is as strong as or more than 3/4". If using 1/4" you lose 1/8" on each side since 1/8" hangs past the glass and 1/8" hangs over the glass. Therefore if using 1/4" zinc, you would cut off 1/8" from each side...in other words 1/4" off the panel total. You may want to shave an additional 1/32" off the total to ensure a good fit.
I've learned so much from your videos thanks for prompt expert guidance
@Shannon Wilhite Thanks, we try to cover everything in the videos, but miss some items occasionally.
Are you able to solder after a black patina has been applied or do I need to try and remove the patina first (as much as possible)?
You can solder after applying patina, some folks recommend that you don't make a practice of it because the patina will be harmful to you iron tip and cause corrosion. I haven't had a problem with that, but it's something to keep in mind.
Nice sir
Thanks 😀😀😀
After adding the zinc came edging, did you apply putty and whiting to that edge or not?
No, this is zinc not lead. It's not soft and pliable. It's hard and rigid. When it is soldered in place it forms a hard frame work. It's not like lead and doesn't need the same treatment that lead needs. We only use the copper foil method in our studio.
@@GommStainedGlass Thanks. 👍
Need some advice on oxidation of the zinc, can it be removed? Thank you
Try silver polish and cleanser, wire brush and steel wool. Go to www.gsg-art.com/videos.html at the bottom of the page for a listing of our videos.
do you always solder all your beads before adding your zinc border
I solder the entire front side (except for the 1/4" next to the edge) I prefer to add my zinc to the other side before soldering the back side...it's just my personal preference.
I thought that you were supposed to tin all the copper foil. However, I see that you didn't tin the copper foil on the edges, where the zinc goes. Is that in case you may need to trim the copper foil after the zinc is soldered on?
I've never found it necessary to tin the outer edge of the copper foil when adding zinc outer bar. I will tin the edge when the glass is going in a wooden frame, but that's just for looks, so that the edge looks uniform with the rest of the panel.
@@GommStainedGlass Thanks David. Very helpful to know. I'll try it your way going forward. Learned something new.
@@marklieberman3596 Good Luck, Let me know how it goes for you!
@@GommStainedGlass I never foil the outer edge.
@@mauryschaefer6624 For Me It's just quicker to foil all around rather than adding an extra step to worry about.
What liquid did you put on your sponge for cleaning your solder iron tip?
We put water on the sponge and clean the tip when it's hot. If we need to get more aggressive when cleaning, we'll use a sal amoniac block and rub the hot tip against it (with a little solder)
What solder are you using? 60/40?
Great question...we prefer 50/50 and here's why, the melting temperature of 50/50 is the lowest of all the mixes of solder, so it soldifies quicker. This results in a better looking joint. We recently did some 60/40 soldering just to make sure and yes..we got better looking lines with the 50/50.
Is zink solder used on the zink frame?
haha your finger will heal but your glass won't!That was funny but great advice! haha its worth a little suffering for your art
And it's true! One fellow told me that usually the time that you slip is when you're finishing a present on Christmas eve.
👍
Thanx 😀
you
This is the saw I purchased from Harbor freight for zinc came. It has a guide for 90 degree cuts and it also works with angles. The blade that came with it works great with zinc.
www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html?_br_psugg_q=cutoff+saw
That's pretty great, I use the 4" saw with a replacement blade but it looks like the 2" blade saw will work and I figure I ought to try one. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the great videos and sharing your knowledge!
@@tonydeleo3642 Thanks, I gotta get me a cut off saw!
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks, we feel that we did a pretty good job with that training and we hope to do more that we consider "good training" in the future.
How do you attach the chain to hang the window?
You add rings and then attach the chain. We have a page on our website that lists our past videos www.gsg-art.com/videos.html will get you there ..it's at the bottom of the page The title is "Solder Rings On Stained Glass"
The use of rings is the most common way we do it