This was extremely helpful to me as a new stained glass artist. Most others I've seen go too fast just to make a shorter video, but art is not quick and easy, it requires patience and understanding of the craft. Thank you for taking your time and explaining things thoroughly.
Thank you SO much! I have been doing stained glass for about 20 years and am self-taught. I watched a lot of videos, but yours is the most informative.
i used to do plumbing for a while, i think when the flux melts into the gaps between the foil and then causes the solder to "chase" it as you say what's happening is something called "capillary action", just a little tidbit for anyone who interested. nice video btw, been wanting to try this for a while :)
I know Im asking randomly but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost my password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Jalen Trent i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
This was a great video. I like how you take your time soldering. You gave some really great tips to keep the piece together and looking great at the end. You're the first person I've seen explain how far the solder should to go down... and excellent no on cleaning the iron!
Awesome video! I have done allot of stained glass in past & just refreshing my memory so I can get back to it. Your techniques & information is great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the tutorial! I'm not a stained glass guy, but from considerable soldering experience I have a few corrections/comments: - lead/tin solders melt in the 360-430F range (not near 700). - 50/50 tin/lead has a *higher* melting point (liquidus ~421F) than 60/40 (liquidus ~376F). The eutectic point of tin/lead is at 62%/38%, giving a liquidus temp of 361F. - I really recommend using a wet sponge! It robs very little heat from the iron, and the wet sponge does a much better job of removing the oxidized solder "slag", keeping it off your iron and your joints. You'll find you need to re-tin/flux/sal ammoniac treat a lot less.
Point taken, I did address that in the video description. Use distilled water in your sponge. " your not a stained glass guy" "EDIT: All those years and my Dad was wrong... 60/40 alloy has a lower melting temperature (361-374 deg.F) than a 50/50 alloy (361-420 deg.F) It sure sounded correct. But I am not a chemist, I am a Professional glass artist; due to my dad's 45 years of experience, and my 15 years in this Studio. "
Thanks for showing how the soldering iron is taken apart, and for the demonstration of using sal ammoniac on the tip. I have read about doing it, but didn't really know how.
Great video. I would be grateful if you could kindly share a video of how to attach a barrel tube hinge and lock to and between two glass panels. Thank You 🙏🏻
I really like your video. I have been lead lighting for a number of years but learned some new tricks ☺️. Just one request, if I may. Is it possible to sometimes zoom in on your work to get a closer look? It would help to see the beading, or the tacking, or fixing up a problem. Thank you.
What a great video!! I've learned so much! I've been playing with glass off and on for 25 years Thank you Ohhh by the way, I am a Huge Buckeye fan. Love your panel❤🤍🏈
I’m new at this and have pretty much learned what I know so far from watching. Thank you so much for sharing your skills! Im seeking advice for what to do with a piece I started over a year ago set aside and forgot about. There are several issues it has one coat of shoulder very thick in places thin in others so it needs going over again and looks like I did not wash the old flux off there are places where I see small cracks between shoulder and glass. Is there anything I can do here or is this a hopeless venture 😢? If so what should I do to restart my project?
I tell students, when you solder, it must be all in one session. You cannot leave the flux on the project overnight it will ruin it. My advice would be to de-solder everything. Remove the foil. Wash in dawn and get them squeaky clean, re-foil, and the solder in 1 session... Sorry that you had to learn the hard way...
Hej Ed, thanks for the great tips! Hopefully, I can finish the piece, my mum started before she got ill. I will try it out and train first on some smaller objects! :)
I think this is an excellent video. I’ve share with some of my friends who are new at this. But I like the back to look as good as the front. Why don’t you do that? Is it just economics, using less solder?
The cost of solder at the time of this video was not an issue. We have always only put a bead on the side that we will see. That is our preference. Once you get the bead on one side, you will need to speed up on the back if you decide to put a bead on it.
I'm new to this. Am I correct that you're soldering the copper tape to copper tape instead of using the lead channel I've seen? I like your finished look so much better!!!
This is the Copper Foil method. You wrap the foil around the glass and then solder. This method is, in my opinion much easier to learn than the Leaded glass method.
I guess you could paint the glue onto the lead and stick it too it. you might get is metal dipped by a chrome plate shop, and have them anodize it gold.
When you get towards the end of your cut piece of solder, to you melt it onto the end of the piece still on the roll then cut a new piece to reduce waste?
I usually cut a piece off the roll and then solder what I have to it. No point in having all those little pieces. The cost of Tin just went up to a record high, Don't Waste It!
As long as you have not cleaned it off, you don't need to. Just remember, don't leave the flux on over night. It will cause problems when you try to add solder. Clean it off if your not going to finish it.
Nadine, I do tin foil when it is something that will be hard to solder, like the edges of a suncatcher. Makes it easier to apply wire around the edges. But I do not pre-tin a foiled panel. I do tack the joints sometimes. Hope that answered your question.
Hi - I have researched this to no end and still have not found an answer. I want to solder a diamond pattern on a large piece of flat glass. I would use copper foil and flux. I want to frame it and hang it in front of a window. Can I do this, or will soldering only work when joining two pieces of glass together? Thanks so much!
Hi Ed watching from England, really helpful video. I have been doing some very poor soldering and will definatly take on board all your tips. I was given a solering iron which is 30W is this powerful enough? I think you said yours was 100W ?
30 watt is more like soldering electronics. A Weller 100 or a Hakko FX-601 is what I recommend. Stay away from the ones that require a power controller. Glad you liked it. When I get time I will try to do more. Eric
Dear Ed, I also heard Eric. I was very excited to watch your instruction video and frankly I'm more confused now about using 60/40 verses 50/50 considerin some of the contradictory comments. I was hopening your video can solve my problem of developing solder balls on the back when I try to bead on the front. I also wish you had zoomed in on your project to see what exactly happens with Flat vs. Beading. Thanks.
It is Eric, my father was Ed. We use 60/40 on copper foil, and 50/50 of lead. Some people differ on their opinions, but that is how we have done it for 45 years. If the solder is running through and beading up under it; 3 things. 1. Soldering iron is much too hot, 2. The glass may no be sitting flat on the surface. 3. Glass is not fitting tightly together. I suspect heat, what type of Iron do you use? Does it require it require a controller connected to it? We sell only stained glass soldering Irons, and recommend: Weller 100s and Hakko FX-601, anything else in my opinion is junk.
@@eallen62 Fantastic! that was great help Eric. I use a temp. Control fixture with my soldering Iron, and yes the foils are not always tightly packed. It happens when I solder front first and solder the back next. At this stage the front where the solder balls form the glass is raised by the Solder beads. Sometimes I think maybe the old solder tacking are oxidized so when I start the final soldering I have to linger too long over the tacked solders. I also thoughts maybe by using different solder/tin ratio (50/50) I can rectify this problem. Thanks again for taking time in responding my question.
Would you not say you were tinning at the beginning as opposed to soldering? Or tinning and then bead? I'm new, also doesn't your wire get hot and how do you use the end of the piece without burning your fingers?
I consider tinning as adding a thin coat of solder over the foil. I don't normally tin on the front side. After I have filled in the front level, I flip, and as long as you have gone slow enough you can just tin the foil on the back. If you have unfilled areas, then you will need to add more solder, than just a tin. I add my frame, then do my bead on the front. I don't normally put a bead of solder on the back of a piece. Hope this helps.
Solder doesn't "stick". It forms an intermetallic with the base metal. The flux compound facilitates this. Flat wrong. a 60/40 alloy has a lower melting temperature (361-374 deg.F) than a 50/50 alloy (361-420 deg.F). A eutectic solder has the lowest melting point of any Sn-Pb alloy (361 deg. F) where the solidus and the liquidus merge. This is why this alloy is commonly used in electronics.
Made in the USA! Where tech companies have always sourced their electronic components...companies like Samsung, AMD, Intel, LG, Nvidia, Sony, etc, etc... Even your Weller is made in Germany.
No, I am in Louisiana, and I got paid to do that panel... Or it would have been Purple and Gold! I do also have that pattern in our online shop here: edsemporium.com/index.php/product/ohio-buck-eye-pattern/
Why do americans insist on calling this stained glass, when it is actually called Tiffany glass. By the way, Solder has an L in it. There is no such thing as a silent L. Try saying sol (as in sun) der..... A sodder is an agricultural implement for scooping or stripping a layer of topsoil and picking it up intact to lay it down as a cover growth or lawn elsewhere
As do most Americans, we all have accents, as does everyone else in the world. No we don't paint it. But I call it stained glass. You can call it whatever... Also my dictionary has this: Pronounced "sod-er." A metal alloy used to bond other metals together. I normally use a shovel or a hoe. I'm interested in watching your videos. Thanks!
@@eallen62 you can call it whatever you want, if you don't mind being wrong. The technique was actually created in the UK by an American called Louis Comfort Tiffany. It appears we in the UK have more respect for him, by acknowledging his achievement in creating a new art form.... Definitions from Oxford Languages · Learn more solder /ˈsɒldə,ˈsəʊldə/ noun noun: solder; plural noun: solders a low-melting alloy, especially one based on lead and tin or (for higher temperatures) on brass or silver, used for joining less fusible metals.
I really like your video. I have been lead lighting for a number of years but learned some new tricks ☺️. Just one request, if I may. Is it possible to sometimes zoom in on your work to get a closer look? It would help to see the beading, or the tacking, or up a problem. Thank you.
Great video. I learned more from you in 5 minutes than I have in the last 20 years doing glass.
This was extremely helpful to me as a new stained glass artist. Most others I've seen go too fast just to make a shorter video, but art is not quick and easy, it requires patience and understanding of the craft. Thank you for taking your time and explaining things thoroughly.
Thank you. I teach form my dad's 45 years of experience.
This is the best of the soldering videos. Ed is a pro and a good teacher.
Thank you!
I love how detailed you explain this.. The small deals taken for granted once you become accomplished are the big deals
You are correct
Thank you SO much! I have been doing stained glass for about 20 years and am self-taught. I watched a lot of videos, but yours is the most informative.
Glad I could help!
Thanks, Ed! You are a really good teacher! I am looking forward to seeing more of your teaching videos.
i used to do plumbing for a while, i think when the flux melts into the gaps between the foil and then causes the solder to "chase" it as you say what's happening is something called "capillary action", just a little tidbit for anyone who interested.
nice video btw, been wanting to try this for a while :)
I know Im asking randomly but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost my password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Emilio Lucca Instablaster :)
@Jalen Trent i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jalen Trent It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account !
@Emilio Lucca happy to help xD
This was a great video. I like how you take your time soldering. You gave some really great tips to keep the piece together and looking great at the end. You're the first person I've seen explain how far the solder should to go down... and excellent no on cleaning the iron!
Thanks 👍
Awesome video! I have done allot of stained glass in past & just refreshing my memory so I can get back to it. Your techniques & information is great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the tutorial!
I'm not a stained glass guy, but from considerable soldering experience I have a few corrections/comments:
- lead/tin solders melt in the 360-430F range (not near 700).
- 50/50 tin/lead has a *higher* melting point (liquidus ~421F) than 60/40 (liquidus ~376F). The eutectic point of tin/lead is at 62%/38%, giving a liquidus temp of 361F.
- I really recommend using a wet sponge! It robs very little heat from the iron, and the wet sponge does a much better job of removing the oxidized solder "slag", keeping it off your iron and your joints. You'll find you need to re-tin/flux/sal ammoniac treat a lot less.
Point taken, I did address that in the video description. Use distilled water in your sponge. " your not a stained glass guy" "EDIT: All those years and my Dad was wrong... 60/40 alloy has a lower melting temperature (361-374 deg.F) than a 50/50 alloy (361-420 deg.F) It sure sounded correct. But I am not a chemist, I am a Professional glass artist; due to my dad's 45 years of experience, and my 15 years in this Studio. "
Great Stuff! In my laters years I've always wanted to learn the art of stained glass. This class is really helping me. Thank You!
Thanks for showing how the soldering iron is taken apart, and for the demonstration of using sal ammoniac on the tip. I have read about doing it, but didn't really know how.
Thank you!
Great job, I learned a lot in a few minutes. Ty.
Great video. I would be grateful if you could kindly share a video of how to attach a barrel tube hinge and lock to and between two glass panels. Thank You 🙏🏻
I really like your video. I have been lead lighting for a number of years but learned some new tricks ☺️. Just one request, if I may. Is it possible to sometimes zoom in on your work to get a closer look? It would help to see the beading, or the tacking, or fixing up a problem. Thank you.
Dang how exciting! I wanna get into this. Awesome teacher. Subscriber from NW FL.
Nice video I just wish you could have your camera close up and over the top. Love your work!! Bravo..
What a great video!! I've learned so much! I've been playing with glass off and on for 25 years
Thank you
Ohhh by the way, I am a Huge Buckeye fan. Love your panel❤🤍🏈
Well I am an Ohio Band fan after that Tribute they to the Band Rush, this weekend. Geaux Tigers!
@@eallen62 awesome!!!!
* Good information. you are a good teacher.. THANKS..
Very helpful and a great tutorial! Thank you for sharing.
i would love to visit your studio. I am wanting to learn how to do stained glass!
Please do!
Muito lindo amei parabéns
Thank you for the excellent lesson and sharing your knowledge.
Great video. Thank You. Quick question: do you put copper foil on the edges if you intend to use cane?
I do not.
Good tips! Thanks for posting.
I’m new at this and have pretty much learned what I know so far from watching. Thank you so much for sharing your skills! Im seeking advice for what to do with a piece I started over a year ago set aside and forgot about. There are several issues it has one coat of shoulder very thick in places thin in others so it needs going over again and looks like I did not wash the old flux off there are places where I see small cracks between shoulder and glass. Is there anything I can do here or is this a hopeless venture 😢? If so what should I do to restart my project?
I tell students, when you solder, it must be all in one session. You cannot leave the flux on the project overnight it will ruin it. My advice would be to de-solder everything. Remove the foil. Wash in dawn and get them squeaky clean, re-foil, and the solder in 1 session... Sorry that you had to learn the hard way...
Thank you for this video and tips! I am new to the hobby and a new subscriber to your channel! Cheers!🎉
Hej Ed, thanks for the great tips! Hopefully, I can finish the piece, my mum started before she got ill. I will try it out and train first on some smaller objects! :)
I think this is an excellent video. I’ve share with some of my friends who are new at this. But I like the back to look as good as the front. Why don’t you do that? Is it just economics, using less solder?
The cost of solder at the time of this video was not an issue. We have always only put a bead on the side that we will see. That is our preference. Once you get the bead on one side, you will need to speed up on the back if you decide to put a bead on it.
I'm new to this. Am I correct that you're soldering the copper tape to copper tape instead of using the lead channel I've seen? I like your finished look so much better!!!
This is the Copper Foil method. You wrap the foil around the glass and then solder. This method is, in my opinion much easier to learn than the Leaded glass method.
@@eallen62 Thanks so much!!! My soldering iron is coming this week!!!
great, great video.... thank you!
Thank you!
what are the frames you use made of? Can you buy them online?
Great video but i just wondered if after you have done the lead,can gold leaf be applied as it looked really nice before you did that?
I guess you could paint the glue onto the lead and stick it too it. you might get is metal dipped by a chrome plate shop, and have them anodize it gold.
Go State. I love that, was thinking about making a few of those. Until red got so expensive. lol
When you get towards the end of your cut piece of solder, to you melt it onto the end of the piece still on the roll then cut a new piece to reduce waste?
I usually cut a piece off the roll and then solder what I have to it. No point in having all those little pieces. The cost of Tin just went up to a record high, Don't Waste It!
This was so helpful!! Thank you!
You are welcome!
Overall good video. Would have appreciated a closer view to the soldering work.
when you go to apply a bead on the front,; (second layer) do you not have to apply flux first?
As long as you have not cleaned it off, you don't need to. Just remember, don't leave the flux on over night. It will cause problems when you try to add solder. Clean it off if your not going to finish it.
Where can I get the cap to hold the tip, mine disintegrated.
I you have a Weller or a Haiko Iron?
@@EdsEmporiumArtGlassStudio a weller
@@kathleenlairscey5934 We do have them, they are $5.20, + USPS charge. Email me at glass@edsemporium.com, if you want me to send you one.
Thanks for tute. I’ll be starting soon.
What’s your position on tinning your pieces prior to lay out and soldering?
Nadine, I do tin foil when it is something that will be hard to solder, like the edges of a suncatcher. Makes it easier to apply wire around the edges. But I do not pre-tin a foiled panel. I do tack the joints sometimes. Hope that answered your question.
Hi - I have researched this to no end and still have not found an answer. I want to solder a diamond pattern on a large piece of flat glass. I would use copper foil and flux. I want to frame it and hang it in front of a window.
Can I do this, or will soldering only work when joining two pieces of glass together?
Thanks so much!
There is a product called Decora lead that is a tape, you can just stick onto a piece of glass.
Thanks so much! I will research that product. Take care.@@EdsEmporiumArtGlassStudio
Hi Ed watching from England, really helpful video. I have been doing some very poor soldering and will definatly take on board all your tips. I was given a solering iron which is 30W is this powerful enough? I think you said yours was 100W ?
30 watt is more like soldering electronics. A Weller 100 or a Hakko FX-601 is what I recommend. Stay away from the ones that require a power controller. Glad you liked it. When I get time I will try to do more. Eric
I didnt know you were supposed to rub that stuff into tip. Got a new tip and I keep it "tinned" and clean and all is good.
This is such a helpful video!
Dear Ed, I also heard Eric.
I was very excited to watch your instruction video and frankly I'm more confused now about using 60/40 verses 50/50 considerin some of the contradictory comments. I was hopening your video can solve my problem of developing solder balls on the back when I try to bead on the front.
I also wish you had zoomed in on your project to see what exactly happens with Flat vs. Beading.
Thanks.
It is Eric, my father was Ed. We use 60/40 on copper foil, and 50/50 of lead. Some people differ on their opinions, but that is how we have done it for 45 years. If the solder is running through and beading up under it; 3 things. 1. Soldering iron is much too hot, 2. The glass may no be sitting flat on the surface. 3. Glass is not fitting tightly together. I suspect heat, what type of Iron do you use? Does it require it require a controller connected to it? We sell only stained glass soldering Irons, and recommend: Weller 100s and Hakko FX-601, anything else in my opinion is junk.
@@eallen62 Fantastic! that was great help Eric. I use a temp. Control fixture with my soldering Iron, and yes the foils are not always tightly packed. It happens when I solder front first and solder the back next. At this stage the front where the solder balls form the glass is raised by the Solder beads. Sometimes I think maybe the old solder tacking are oxidized so when I start the final soldering I have to linger too long over the tacked solders. I also thoughts maybe by using different solder/tin ratio (50/50) I can rectify this problem. Thanks again for taking time in responding my question.
60/40 melts at a lower temp than 50/50. That is why 50/50 is best for filling small gaps before running your bead with 60/40.
60/40 alloy has a lower melting temperature (361-374 deg.F) than a 50/50 alloy (361-420 deg.F) Looks like they are both about the same...
Would you not say you were tinning at the beginning as opposed to soldering? Or tinning and then bead? I'm new, also doesn't your wire get hot and how do you use the end of the piece without burning your fingers?
I consider tinning as adding a thin coat of solder over the foil. I don't normally tin on the front side. After I have filled in the front level, I flip, and as long as you have gone slow enough you can just tin the foil on the back. If you have unfilled areas, then you will need to add more solder, than just a tin. I add my frame, then do my bead on the front. I don't normally put a bead of solder on the back of a piece. Hope this helps.
I new to stained glass and my soldering is not very good,this should help a lot
Really helpful...Thank you
You are welcome!
where do I get the patter for this Block O
Here: edsemporium.com/index.php/product/ohio-buck-eye-pattern/
what temp do you suggest for the soldering iron??
We use a Weller 100 the tip is 700F.
Solder doesn't "stick". It forms an intermetallic with the base metal. The flux compound facilitates this.
Flat wrong. a 60/40 alloy has a lower melting temperature (361-374 deg.F) than a 50/50 alloy (361-420 deg.F). A eutectic solder has the lowest melting point of any Sn-Pb alloy (361 deg. F) where the solidus and the liquidus merge. This is why this alloy is commonly used in electronics.
Thanks for your correction. I looked for your stained glass videos but did not see any.
شكراً على المعلومات👍
Way helpful thanks!
Great! Let me know when you need supplies!
What was the name of.the solder you recommended?
We recommend Amerway. I have it in stock.
Good tips!
OH!
GO BUCKS!!!!
how much did you charge for that piece
I don't discuss commission work online. If you are interested in one, please call the studio. Thanks for your interest.
O-H Very informative. Pat
Why does my solder not stick to my tape?
Are you using copper foil, and flux?
Made in the USA! Where tech companies have always sourced their electronic components...companies like Samsung, AMD, Intel, LG, Nvidia, Sony, etc, etc... Even your Weller is made in Germany.
Actually, Weller's are made in Mexico, or at least put together there...
O-H ! Just found your channel , are you locked in ohio ?
No, I am in Louisiana, and I got paid to do that panel... Or it would have been Purple and Gold! I do also have that pattern in our online shop here:
edsemporium.com/index.php/product/ohio-buck-eye-pattern/
Why do americans insist on calling this stained glass, when it is actually called Tiffany glass. By the way, Solder has an L in it. There is no such thing as a silent L. Try saying sol (as in sun) der..... A sodder is an agricultural implement for scooping or stripping a layer of topsoil and picking it up intact to lay it down as a cover growth or lawn elsewhere
As do most Americans, we all have accents, as does everyone else in the world. No we don't paint it. But I call it stained glass. You can call it whatever... Also my dictionary has this: Pronounced "sod-er." A metal alloy used to bond other metals together. I normally use a shovel or a hoe. I'm interested in watching your videos. Thanks!
@@eallen62
you can call it whatever you want, if you don't mind being wrong. The technique was actually created in the UK by an American called Louis Comfort Tiffany. It appears we in the UK have more respect for him, by acknowledging his achievement in creating a new art form....
Definitions from Oxford Languages · Learn more
solder
/ˈsɒldə,ˈsəʊldə/
noun
noun: solder; plural noun: solders
a low-melting alloy, especially one based on lead and tin or (for higher temperatures) on brass or silver, used for joining less fusible metals.
Thanks for the vid, it's soldering not soddering ok, haha you Americans
I really like your video. I have been lead lighting for a number of years but learned some new tricks ☺️. Just one request, if I may. Is it possible to sometimes zoom in on your work to get a closer look? It would help to see the beading, or the tacking, or up a problem. Thank you.