Ninja 250 vacuum leak.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- In this test you will see if the "air cut off" or "enrichment valave" is leaking.
Disconnect the vacuum home to it. This hose is from the right carburetor. Between the butterfly and the intake tube. Plug the nipple on the vacuum port on the left cyclinder. Can not leave it open!!
Then Disconnect the larger hose in the top of the valave. If you plug it with your finger and the idle does not hang, then the valave is leaking. If no change in idle, the valave is working properly.
You sir are a wizard! It worked like magic! Pulled carbs. twice, once more than necessary. Long story short. Put o ring on, idle could now be adjusted with accuracy and ease. Blip the throttle and rpm falls right back to 1,400 to 1,500. Much thanks you save me from pulling carbs. who knows how many more times! Thank you again.
Hey, im blipping the throttle and it stays high, what did u exactly do?
Which O-ring did u put where?
Great video. I just reinstalled Carbs on a Ninja250, had actually been looking for a diagram on correct install of the hoses and this helped a lot.
Glad it helped. I need to edit it to show where I put the oring on the secondary enrichment valave. The one that causes the vacuum leaks.
@@jdsstegman I’d love that. Would help a lot of people. You happen to have the service manual for this bike? Trying to get my 250 running, feels like something simple.
@@ctcourtking
I do somewhere...... but most of the time I use and online service program. And honestly most of the time they are lacking in info.
If your bike does not run, then most likely this is not your issue. All this causes is a high idle.
Есть схема подключения шлангов?
Just taught me something. Thank you
Your welcome. Every one of these i see fails. So my trick is the pintel on the diaphram I put an oring at is base. So when the spring closes the valave, the oring sits against the base of the housing and sealing it. Then it works right and still enriches the circuit when it needs to but no more high idle.
There is a lot of web title searches for high ideas on these bikes and many people have said that the dealership just says that's just the way some are......lol
Where do u place the o ring
@@gerardmcconnon9155
The diaphram has a tip on it made of brass. Put the oring over the tip and slide it down to the base of the diaphram.
@@jdsstegman
Thank you very much
It has me tortured
Can you make a video were you show how to put the oríng please?
I posted a new video. Look up ninja 250 enrichment valave. I'm not sure how to send a link so just look it up.
You have a vacuum leak because of screws missing out of the top of the carburetor where the bellows are
A little fast, and bit confusing... but if you study it... you can get the drift of it.
This guy is the shit right helps out in comments too I like the clarity and dedication....I have a 95 I think this is my issue for a temporary fix can I plug it ??
No don't plug it. Then at high rpm on deceleration the engine will go lean and backfire. And because the motor isn't under power stroke load, the backfires are technically detonation. And that's not good for an engine.
So what should I do
@Craig Zander well, if you have issues with high idle, then check for vacuum leaks anywhere they may be. And also make sure everything else is good about the carbs. Meaning rebuilt. These 2 things are the only place to start really.
I just did a carb rebuild with new needles and gaskets. I have the random idle issue too! My biggest problem is the fuel coming out of the carbs after giving it some throttle trying to get the idle down. Should my floats be at 90 degrees before hitting the pins? That's where they are set at.
I have some left over o-rings so I will put that on the enrichment diaphragm.
Thanks,
Matt - 2001 Ninja 250
So proper float high is a must!! Most important thing. New needles if you haven already. With the carbs up side down the float arm should make 90 degrees to the casing arms that the pin goes there. And the little swing loaded tip on the must carry the weight of the floats while upside down.
You should be able to push down on the float and it should pop back up and sit 90. If not, the needle is shot. And once upside down, you can try and blow threw the fuel line with your mouth. If you can push air threw with you mouth, they is a leak. I then use soapy water so see where bubbles appear.
Some times it's bad cross over fuel tube orings that will leak and it looks like the carbs overflow cuz it drips off the bottom of the carbs. In short you should not be able to make any air move with your mouth. There is no magic number on how mush psi they should hold but the mouth trick has never failed. Compressed air is too strong. Only 2 to 3 psi is enough.
I will try and make a video on all this and send a link.
Also, only needles and carb kits I will use is K&L or keyster. I have had to many issues with other kits. Even oem. And I also only use needles that are ethanol resistant.
Dam I think my ninja 259 has the same issue, took the longest to figure out what it was, except mine rose up to like 6k rpms lol
Yeah, I have seen it be that high as well. With a vacuum leak it's unpredictable. These carbs are not special except they just have a remote enrichment valave that controls both carbs. And to say both carbs should be enriched identically is absurd as well. So when I scync them, I always disconnect the enrichment to keep each carb separate from eachother for each cylinder. Get a way smoother and more accurate scync that way.
I tried this on my bike that has cold starting issues and idle issues when cold. I let the bike warm-up and found that when I took my finger off the rightmost hose connection on the coast valve, the idle would quickly rise to 2-3k, and then after a few seconds, it would fall back down to 1k where it would stay until I put my finger back on which would cause it to do the same thing as when I took my finger off. I tried this multiple times and it did the exact same thing every time I took my finger off it and every time I put it back on. Would you say that I have the same issue? I know you said the idle shouldn't change at all which makes me believe I have the same issue, but my rpm didn't climb nearly as high or for as long as yours did. Thank you for the very informative video, these can be hard to come by.
It's worth a shot to put and oring in the base of the "nipple"on the air cut off valave and try the same thing you did before and see if you have made a change. I have yet to see one not leak.
And yes. They are hard to come by. But an oring on the base usually makes it seal without hurting its functionality.
I think the true culprit is all these bikes are jetted to lean on the pilot. Slight air leaks on most other bikes don't act like they act on the ninjas with these carbs.
Very good video on this valve but im still struggling to understand this valve. what is the actual purpose of it. And when you say " the idle does not hang" what do you mean by this? Also would i be right in saying you were applying vaccum to the enrichment valve on this video. i just noticed the position of your brass tap on that yellow/black pipe. were you just doing it for demonstration purposes. thanks for the video.
Скажите пожалуйста.Как правильно подключить шланги к карбюраторам и кранчику?
Keep up the videos bro
Amigo ahi la tiene con fuga porque al tapar con el dedo deveria apagarse la moto es asi? Porq al acelerar la moto asierta revoluciones la valvula deveria cerrrar y trabajar solo la alta?
Ty
So, good news. When I get my carb past 90 degrees, I blow on the fuel in line and it gets completely shut off. once the floats open the fuel(air) flows. I put an o ring on the brass shaft. It sits on top of the "base". Should it go around the base? That would prevent full movement of the diaphragm? I have pictures . Can I email you?
They have to be at 90 or slightly before 90. If the floats sit down in the bowl lower than 90, when they are right side up that will be over full.
As for the diagram for the enrichment an oring should be placed at the end of the shaft. The shaft had a head on it and the o ring has to go around the head down to the base.
The problem is the head can wear and so can the body of the carb and they head won't stop airflow. But if there is an oring at the base then the oring seals the hole with the help of the head and when the spring closes it and no vacuum is applied it is sealed.
I will try and make a video of this.
@@EvolvingNaturally no sealant. It will just stop air from entering the hole the head goes in. That head is called a pintal by the way. Lol.
@@jdsstegman Tried my bike with the o-ring and carb rebuild tonight - idles great. I've ordered a new petcock as my tank emptied into a new hole in my driveway.
Thank you for the help. Looking forward to the "pintel ring"..... it will help many people!
I need help so this pointed me in a good direction but im afraid it might be more than that i am not getting any fuel to the carb
I was told before it gavity fed but further research it is vacuum fed. Im at a loss right now
So the petcock needs vacuum from the intake to open the fuel petcock to allow fuel out of the tank.
This issue I'm showing in the video, has nothing to do with the carburators getting fuel.
@@jdsstegman i know that now lol, i just help identifying what line that is cause i cant find any diagrams online to help pount me in tge right direction of which line it is that pulls the vacuum from the tank to get it to the carb
@@crittygiglio8615
Any line that is in-between the cylinder head and the butterfly of the throttle. If I remeber right, each carb had a brass nipple on the front of the carb.
@@crittygiglio8615 buy a stinking manual !
Great vid, I’ve got the same bike 2003 but same engine and vacuum setup. It has the same symptoms as shown in the vid, as in if the line is blocked off then it idles down, but in my case it completely stalls. Once the block is released, it goes up to a few thousand rpm idle. Any ideas? Thanks
idle jets clogged.
I have the same problem also has gas coming out of the overflow, could this cause this to happen or is it something else.
Nope. If fuel comes out the overflow, then the needle and seats are allowing too much fuel into the carbs. Best bet is to rebuild your carbs and make sure you set the float hight properly.
hello sir,when i remove the tube to the vacuum the the scooter engine sounds good to me and a little acceleration causes rotation, can i use the bike without fixing the tube back
If is truly a vacuum leak, then the hose should be plugged atleast.
if its not sealed would it be the fittings diaphgrams or the gap between them ?
The brass nipple on the diagram. When it is in the hole and the spring pushes it closed, air can still go around the nipple. That's where the leak occurs. So at the base of the stem, that's where I put an oring. That way if the nipple leaks, air will go down the stem but can leak past the oring.
Most of the time, I new diaphragm do little. Because the aluminum hole that the diaphragm nipple goes down into is worn. I use to re sleeve them with a brass insert, but every time to let off the throttle, that diaphragm moves back and forth. So they simply wear out.
My problem is that after 7 RPM it cuts off and there is no power. Could it be the same valve?
I don't think so. You are accelerating so 1: there is no manifold vacuum and the valve only opens when rhe throttle is closed. 2: at 7k you are running on the main jets in the carbs. This valave is only to add fuel for idle when the the throttle is closed but the engine isn't at idle.so, I highly doubt it.
There are alot of reasons an engine will not get over a certian rpm. If you have gone threw the carbs already, then double check your work.
Thank you for your answer me@@jdsstegman
My ninja 250r which is 2011 model (the carb look alike the old gen) have this enricher problem so my mechanic took off the spring inside the valve diaphragm and its now idling kinda better at 1,3k rpm but i think it has side effect when i rev to 2k rpm it returned below 1000 while i rev over 4k rpm it returns at 1,3k rpm which is the adjusted idle, what you think could be wrong? It has factory pilot and main jet also the both needle that different left and right code
If it is the spring and diaphragm I talk about in this video, it has to be in there and it has to be sealed. That diaphragm is only opened when the throttle is closed and high enought rpm aka vacuum.
In the video, the issue is that even tho the diaphragm spring is holding it closed and there is no vacuum, it's leaking around the head of the pin on the diaphragm causing it to leak. And it can not leak.
As for carbs, everything has to be right. It's not 1 thing that makes an engine run well, it's all of it.
Make sure you have no vacuum leaks between the carbs and the cylinder head. Make sure your float high is right. Not just by setting rhe float arm at 90 degrees, but also with a u shaped hose on the bowl drain to check fuel level inside the bowl.
@@jdsstegman well the diaphragm actually teared, but there's no leak between the valve diaphragm housing and the cover (even there is, can i use a sealent?). Theres no leak between carb and the engine head area especially the manifold, but im really skeptical on the coin valve also my Mechanic told me the vacuum valve and the spring is troubling too probably making the carb return to idle slower if i rev'd up over 4k rpm
@@lordmeme9965 fix what you know is bad. There is no selant that will work. Replace the diaphragm with a new one.
@@jdsstegmantheres no one sell this diaphragm
@lordmeme9965 I'm pretty sure there are air cut off valaves available.
But when I can, I will post a new video showing better what I'm talking about. But if your diaphragm is torn, that's a different issue than what this video talks about and yours will have an even worse vacuum leak. I would try and plug the vacuum like to the air cut off valave and see if that helps the idle issue.