Why in the world did you leave the gaskets on when you started cleaning? I can see someone melting their gaskets cause they didn't know better. I would recommend that if you use a wire brush that you use a brass wire brush, which will be soft bristled (as far as metals go) so that you are less likely to scratch the aluminum. I also wouldn't get carb cleaner on your bare skin but that's just a personal safety preference. That's all the negative stuff I had to say, now for some positives. You described what you were doing well, your camera work is really good and all in all I found this video easy to follow.
Your video was very helpful! I cleaned my carbs and now the bike runs again! I appreciate this video so much! You know why else it was helpful? You know that thing on the left side of the carburetor at the top, it's round and it has some hoses attached to it? I put that on the right side and couldn't fit the carburetors back on. So I got that help from here too. ^_^
Really good video, I liked how you explained everything thoroughly. I have a 50, didnt really store it properly this year for winter, I am hoping the carb just needs a good cleaning.
Thanks for the vid it took a day to get that dumb carb out 10 minutes to clean it. I swear that air box being in the way made me want to split it up the middle with a sawzall
In another video a guy pulled out the cara in like 20 minutes. When I followed his video carb did not leave its happy place that easily and yes the damn airbox is annoying.
Good video mate, thanks. Now for a nag...wear some nitrile gloves. I'm 38yrs old and suffer from industrial dermatitis. I never wore gloves when cleaning with all sorts of chemicals from degreaser to kero to metho and carb cleaners and now I am paying the price. The slightest contact, even a mist, flares my skin up. My fingers split and crack down to the flesh, quite painfully! Anyway, sorry to nag lol.
Seriously thank you I've been looking for hours on a video on how to clean carbs and everybody keeps going off on rants in there videos about all the mods and all their life stories of bike riding it's just like tell me how to clean the f****** carb so thank you bro thank you
Instead of using wire to clean out all the jets, i would recommend using an air compressor, just to avoid damaging the surfaces. Actually blowing out the entire carb before reinstalling is usually a good idea.
You might as well do it right the first time or you're going to have to do it all over again. Use vice grips on the bowl screws to get them out, then replace em with something comparable. You need to clean all the jets and passageways in both carbs. Don't cut corners.
Is the engine supposed to warm to normal operating temperature before the needle valve functions properly? I replace engine valves and piston rings. Despite that I had a clogged pilot jet; I adjusted the float height and suffer hesitation. I'm thinking some person plugged the pilot screw holes deliberately. If the engine idle is 1800 r.p.m. the throttle functions correctly. I wish he'd gone into detail about those screws.
Me and my uncle easily got my carb off, however one of the bowl's screws absolutely refuse to come out. The nearby Kawasaki dealership said they'd take them out for 10 bucks, but we got one of the bowls clean, and we're hoping its enough. I think the real challenge is getting the carb back on... shit took over an hour
I had problems with stripping all the screws. It took hours to take them out. I had to Dremel the tip in the screw and get it out. Some I used a wrench. I don't know why they can't use better screws. Replaced them with Allen key screws with washers. I think it's .7mm * 16mm. I stripped a pilot jet too. I bought a small screw extractor bit and it went right in the small hole of the pilot jet. I also made the mistake of soaking the diaphragm... Don't do that, expensive parts for just rubber.
I was just doing the same thing. I ended up taking a dremel tool and cutting a slot in the head of each screw. 3 minutes with a big-ass flat head screw driver and my problem was solved. Ugly but effective solution.
Who designed this natural resource derivative? I'm glad there are people out there who are interested in designing something so intricate. Not I! I just use em. Haha
there are two little sleeves of metal when that came out when i was spraying my carbs i didnt see where they came out from need to know where to put them and which dirrection they go
hey i am trying to clean the carbs of my 250 but i stripped the screws now i dont know what to do. Do you have any tips on how to remove them and where to get some to replace them ?
50:50 White vinegar and water - strip down and boil carbs and jets for 15 minutes - cleans the carbs very well - rinse in water and let dry - carb cleaner will eat the diaphragms so is not the best way of cleaning carbs.
Any tips on getting the carb in/out of the bike? I got it off, but I had to take out the battery, unscrew all the attachments for the air intake and then wedge it off little by little. I clean the carbs on my dirt bikes all the time, but this was such a pain - I have no idea how I'll get it back on!!!
It's a real pain to get these out compared to some other bikes. There is a mod you can do to the airbox (carefully cutting off the battery box) that will allow you to slide the airbox back a lot further, making it a lot easier to get the carbs out.
I ended up tearing out my air box all together and going with a direct fit K&N air filter. Costs $42 roughly and will save a tremendous amount of time and effort trying to get to the carbs and now there is a ton of room to work around in there compared to before. All I have to remove is my seat and 1 side plastic . Part number is K&N R-0990
obviously its going to be a major increase in air flow compared to stock, which may require some jetting work to compensate for the increase. Other than that, increased air flow=increase in power, you just have to do some basic tuning. There is a air breather tube that goes from the top of the crank case into the air box that also needs taken care of. Besides the stock air box being a b***** to get out, I haven't had any issues yet.
hey...nice video..i have a kawasaki kle 250 and we have the same carbs...i have a question..how many turns need the air screws?because i have some issues with torgue and iddle
In another video somebody mentioned you need to remember turns needed to tighten all the way in, when you disassembled. Then tighten and turn back out same no of turns.
Why in the world did you leave the gaskets on when you started cleaning? I can see someone melting their gaskets cause they didn't know better. I would recommend that if you use a wire brush that you use a brass wire brush, which will be soft bristled (as far as metals go) so that you are less likely to scratch the aluminum. I also wouldn't get carb cleaner on your bare skin but that's just a personal safety preference.
That's all the negative stuff I had to say, now for some positives. You described what you were doing well, your camera work is really good and all in all I found this video easy to follow.
Your video was very helpful! I cleaned my carbs and now the bike runs again! I appreciate this video so much! You know why else it was helpful? You know that thing on the left side of the carburetor at the top, it's round and it has some hoses attached to it? I put that on the right side and couldn't fit the carburetors back on. So I got that help from here too. ^_^
Really good video, I liked how you explained everything thoroughly. I have a 50, didnt really store it properly this year for winter, I am hoping the carb just needs a good cleaning.
the best video I've seen on youtube thanks ............
Thanks for the vid it took a day to get that dumb carb out 10 minutes to clean it. I swear that air box being in the way made me want to split it up the middle with a sawzall
In another video a guy pulled out the cara in like 20 minutes. When I followed his video carb did not leave its happy place that easily and yes the damn airbox is annoying.
Shouldn’t take more then half an hour to get the carbs out
Good video mate, thanks.
Now for a nag...wear some nitrile gloves. I'm 38yrs old and suffer from industrial dermatitis. I never wore gloves when cleaning with all sorts of chemicals from degreaser to kero to metho and carb cleaners and now I am paying the price. The slightest contact, even a mist, flares my skin up. My fingers split and crack down to the flesh, quite painfully! Anyway, sorry to nag lol.
It's better to have allen-head bolts. The soft stock phillips screws are notorious for stripping out.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but i believe the screw that you spoke of at the end of the video is the "pilot air screw" and not the idle adjustment screw
at 14:02
Yass, correct. That is to sync them.
Seriously thank you I've been looking for hours on a video on how to clean carbs and everybody keeps going off on rants in there videos about all the mods and all their life stories of bike riding it's just like tell me how to clean the f****** carb so thank you bro thank you
Instead of using wire to clean out all the jets, i would recommend using an air compressor, just to avoid damaging the surfaces. Actually blowing out the entire carb before reinstalling is usually a good idea.
The more the better. Whenever you feel the bike running rough or unusually/have trouble starting.
Good job. How often should one clean the carbs?
dlinquencious every year to be on the safe side
Awesome man. Glad I could help you out. Cheers!
What is the middle fuel line coming out of the back of the carb? Mine is leaking. Where does it go?
You might as well do it right the first time or you're going to have to do it all over again. Use vice grips on the bowl screws to get them out, then replace em with something comparable. You need to clean all the jets and passageways in both carbs. Don't cut corners.
Is the engine supposed to warm to normal operating temperature before the needle valve functions properly? I replace engine valves and piston rings. Despite that I had a clogged pilot jet; I adjusted the float height and suffer hesitation. I'm thinking some person plugged the pilot screw holes deliberately. If the engine idle is 1800 r.p.m. the throttle functions correctly. I wish he'd gone into detail about those screws.
Me and my uncle easily got my carb off, however one of the bowl's screws absolutely refuse to come out. The nearby Kawasaki dealership said they'd take them out for 10 bucks, but we got one of the bowls clean, and we're hoping its enough.
I think the real challenge is getting the carb back on... shit took over an hour
I recognize a fellow low voltage technicians hands. He's got the callus from years of pushing on coax connectors :)
I had problems with stripping all the screws. It took hours to take them out. I had to Dremel the tip in the screw and get it out. Some I used a wrench. I don't know why they can't use better screws. Replaced them with Allen key screws with washers. I think it's .7mm * 16mm. I stripped a pilot jet too. I bought a small screw extractor bit and it went right in the small hole of the pilot jet. I also made the mistake of soaking the diaphragm... Don't do that, expensive parts for just rubber.
Oh shit I left mine soaking overnight.
yeah i have allen screws on my carb as well i definitely like them more than the philips ones
Man, what a great video, thanks
Great video and I will be using this tutorial this spring !! :D
Thank you for posting this video. When you take the jet/idle screws out, how do you know how to put them back to the correct level/turns?
what i use is a cutting torch tip cleaner. it works the best
I was just doing the same thing. I ended up taking a dremel tool and cutting a slot in the head of each screw. 3 minutes with a big-ass flat head screw driver and my problem was solved. Ugly but effective solution.
its a good video, but spraying carb cleaner like that can (and it will) damage your gasket and (if your carb has one) the diagfram
Who designed this natural resource derivative? I'm glad there are people out there who are interested in designing something so intricate. Not I! I just use em. Haha
there are two little sleeves of metal when that came out when i was spraying my carbs i didnt see where they came out from need to know where to put them and which dirrection they go
hey i am trying to clean the carbs of my 250 but i stripped the screws now i dont know what to do. Do you have any tips on how to remove them and where to get some to replace them ?
50:50 White vinegar and water - strip down and boil carbs and jets for 15 minutes - cleans the carbs very well - rinse in water and let dry - carb cleaner will eat the diaphragms so is not the best way of cleaning carbs.
Any tips on getting the carb in/out of the bike? I got it off, but I had to take out the battery, unscrew all the attachments for the air intake and then wedge it off little by little. I clean the carbs on my dirt bikes all the time, but this was such a pain - I have no idea how I'll get it back on!!!
It's a real pain to get these out compared to some other bikes. There is a mod you can do to the airbox (carefully cutting off the battery box) that will allow you to slide the airbox back a lot further, making it a lot easier to get the carbs out.
I ended up tearing out my air box all together and going with a direct fit K&N air filter. Costs $42 roughly and will save a tremendous amount of time and effort trying to get to the carbs and now there is a ton of room to work around in there compared to before. All I have to remove is my seat and 1 side plastic
. Part number is K&N R-0990
mpshags Any change in performance? I've heard mixed results when replacing the stock airbox/filter.
obviously its going to be a major increase in air flow compared to stock, which may require some jetting work to compensate for the increase. Other than that, increased air flow=increase in power, you just have to do some basic tuning. There is a air breather tube that goes from the top of the crank case into the air box that also needs taken care of. Besides the stock air box being a b***** to get out, I haven't had any issues yet.
Awesome video...thanks a ton!
hey...nice video..i have a kawasaki kle 250 and we have the same carbs...i have a question..how many turns need the air screws?because i have some issues with torgue and iddle
In another video somebody mentioned you need to remember turns needed to tighten all the way in, when you disassembled. Then tighten and turn back out same no of turns.
2.5 turns
What year ninja 250 is this? I have a 2011 ninja 250r and im wondering if i can use this video for reference.
They should all be about the same, different process to take them out but all carbs share very similar builds. You should do one side at a time.
nice video but you shuldnt b spraying carb cleaner on rubber seals...
NICE VIDEO THANKS
Thanks a lot!
Yeah mate fair play to ya for videoing it ;-)
Hello all, do anybody knows where that orange transparent hose is connected ? thhe hose between the carbs Thank you
It's the float bowl over flow hose. So nipple will above the floats.
@@TSCtheTHC So this hose don't have any fixing just I need to I need to fix it somewere above the floats?I hope I understand well.Thank you
Weird. My carb jets only had two holes
Apple cider vinegar works wonders on removing rust. Cleaned the inside of my old gas tank with it.
diesel works great too
Love the video but always wear some gloves with carb cleaner really bad for the skin.
My dude, you need to switch to 91 non ethanol fuel 😅
remove all plastic and rubber pieces before you spray crab cleaner!!!!!!!
Cant afford gloves?