I hope this helps you choose better starting pattern sizes! 😀 Do you have the in-between size problem too? And, If you really want to master this fitting and using patterns thing... join me at www.vintagesewingschool.com/ I'd love to have you in class!
I have sewn for many years but as I have aged my body shape has changed, so I am having to learn to fit and often have to grade between three sizes. This video is a good introduction, thanks.
I would love to see a video showing what style elements look good on various body shapes. A well-fitted garment is always more slimming than a poorly-fitted one, but picking the right style for your body in the first place goes SO much farther. There's so much to learn on this topic. Thanks much!
For the majority of us who aren't the perfect clothing size, there are indie designers who make patterns that offer a much wider range of sizes. Cashmerette is one that comes to mind.
This was such a great breakdown of the thought process and decision making in picking a pattern. I liked how you gave examples for bust, hips, and waist separately. It's that level of detail in your tutorials that make them so helpful for people to learn, because there's no point where you just give one piece of information and assume the student can figure out the rest on their own. Thanks!
Awww thankyou! I'm so glad you enjoy and learn from my videos! Thankyou for always watching, commenting and being such a wonderful member of this community ❤
I am all over the place with sizing on commercial patterns! Everything must be adjusted, and it gets frustrating when all I want to do is to sit at my sewing machine and make something! This was a great video. I have learned some ideas here that I am definitely going to try. Thanks for sharing!
I just recently discovered your videos and I love them! You are such a little darling! I have been sewing for over 50 years and I have learned more about sewing watching your videos than I have in the 50 years. Thank you sew much! See what I did there? Suzette Johnson- South Carolina USA.
Thanks for this Evelyn! As a post-menopausal woman, I have had to learn new alteration methods to accommodate my expanded upper belly (sternum to waist). I now gravitate to A-line or Empire waist dresses because of fewer changes. Blouses that have shoulder gathers are good too. My daughter, on the other hand, I fit bodice, taper in 3sizes at waist and always choose A-Line or full skirts. In all honesty, fitting woven pants for either of us is a nightmare. Ponte Roma for the win! 🇨🇦
I have about the same situation. Perimenopause plus thyroid condition plus injuries that kept me off my feet so I put on weight. I have sort of a "dad bod". LOL. It's so tough to find stuff that fits right.
Ha ! Yes recently started sewing at 66. I have always had trouble buying clothes as shoulder,were small, bust bigger, small waist , large butt. But now I have small shoulders, and then the rest is like a box. Bust, waist, hips only a couple inches off from each other. Soooo welcome to 60 😂😂😂
Thank you Evelyn. I have a very small bust in relation to the rest of my body so I always pick the correct bust size, (having taken into account the amount of ease I want in that area) and then extend the waist and hip measurements to fit and flatter me. I have larger thighs than hips so I tend to choose a flared or A line skirt to disguise that. In addition to these alterations I always have to shorten every garment as I’m only 5ft in height with a very short torso. Ready to wear garments have too low a bust line for me so I tend to shorten bodice pieces both above and below the bust line, meaning that sleeve head patterns have to be altered to match! It’s all so complicated but at the end I get a garment which actually fits me. This is what started me sewing in the first place. It’s the only way I can get garments that actually fit!
Thank you very much for all your very helpful videos. Could you please explain in a future video how to choose the right pattern size to choose for women with smaller or bigger cup size than the standard B cup size on patterns.
Excellent video, thank you so much! One thing I’ve noticed just lately that might help others is that, when it comes to my bust measurement, the size of my rib cage is a smaller proportion of that overall measurement than standard (more breast which gives a little, less ribcage which doesn’t.) So, what I’ve realized is that I get a better fit if I follow the *waist* size rather than the bust size! If anyone else out there has a proportionately small bra band size to cup size, as well as a smaller/shorter bust-to-shoulder length, you might find it easier to actually use a smaller size than you think for tops, so you don’t end up with a giant baggy waist.
I am smaller in the hip and have a round middle so, I move front waist darts and pleats toward the hip until the front of the garment lays flat across. If I put them in where directed by the pattern the finished garment bulges and puckers terribly in the front. In this way I can wear fitted through the hip slacks and skirts, which is a style I enjoy wearing, but off the rack looks horrid on me. I also choose patterns that are more flowy from the fitted hip down as this further disguises my more round middle.
Love the old patterns. My mother-in-law gave me heaps of beautiful Vogue patterns from the 50s. She would make a new dress each week to go out to dances on Saturday night.
I got a shirt pattered for my first sewing project. The pattern said easy to sew. If I knew how to sew, it would have been easy! I fumbled through and made a shirt for my husband. He is an xxl so I got the xxl pattern. Wow, it was huge. I sewed two inch sesames in each side. It worked, but not well. My dear husband wore the shirt today! I guess this is a very long winded way to say that I am learning so much from your videos. I am so glad I found you!
I’m a beginner and picking a size makes me crazy, my wide hips make sizing so hard. Tried to combine sizes on my last two projects but I’m just not that skilled. I think for now Ill stick to patterns with a fuller bottom portion. This was a very useful video so thank you. All of your videos are!
Thank you so much for your very helpful video. My waist is always a couple of sizes larger than my bust and hips, which sounds odd to say out loud. Now that I have I can put away all those patterns for wasp waisted garments that I love the look of but are not going to give me a satisfying result. I think if I stick to something that is fitted in the bust, most patterns have enough easy to accommodate my tummy, like empire line or A line. Also, cannot say how important it is to make a toile. I have one in progress at the moment for my daughter. The final dress will be beaded silk georgette with a matching lining. The basic pattern didn't fit well and I have done a full bust adjustment. Now I feel way more confident to tackle the final product. I watched your tutorial on different seam types and have decided on felled seams for this dress. So grateful for your expertise. Thanks!
When you're choosing your pattern from the pattern book, quite often you'll see symbols representing the different body shapes - small waist is two triangles pointing at each other, small bust/shoulders with large hips is a large triangle pointed up, small hips with large shoulders/bust is a large triangle pointed down, large waist is a square or a circle (I can't quite remember that one and feeling too lazy to rabbit through all my patterns to find out). So that will help with choosing the easier style for your body shape. Also, a lot of patterns come with multi-sizes these days, so that makes it that much easier to lay baking paper over the top and trace/blend (with a pencil - pens won't work) between the sizes before any cutting out - and you don't destroy the original pattern - and you get your own custom-fit pattern which may only require slight tweaking from that point!
Thank you for this comment. I'm a relatively new sewer and I started by creating patterns from clothes i already own. Now I'm looking to start making trousers because current trends really don't work for me. I'm using a pattern that is created in such a way that I'm going to need to work from 3 sizes if I want it to fit, but the pattern has stern warnings about not using more than one pattern size. I came back to Evelyn's videos to check that if I'm careful I can actually blend waist, hip and inside leg measurements to get something that will fit me better (or at all, come to that) and your comment has given me the confidence to carry on as planned. I'm currently tracing out the sizing I need so that I don't have to work with tissue paper a minute longer than necessary - this won't be a quick project, but hopefully it will be wearable by the time I've made the toile and finessed the adjustments as needed.
I looked through several videos, and I feel so fortunate to have found yours Evelyn!! You speak so clearly, and explain so clearly! I love how many links you have to answer, so far, every question. I am subscribed so now you are this beginning again, more serious about it, senior (68) lady's "goto" teacher. I am really so excited about having you to follow through my new adventure, Denise, Crescent City, California, thank you sooooooo much!!
Thank you for the pointers on fitting. I’m elderly and not the same size and shape I used to be which is why I have decided to make some of my clothing. I have had some surgeries so comfortable clothing that isn’t too tight is a must. It’s reassuring to know that I’m not alone in the quandaries of fitting. I was a nurse and love the practicalities and comfort of scrubs. I think with plain black slacks and maybe a ruffled neckline or other neckline variation
So so helpful. I feel that I much better understand the nuances of pattern sizes. I am beginning to explore making slight adjustments to my patterns to make them fit right, and this game me some info to help me start!
I’ve been sewing for years....how did I not know this?? Thankyou! I have made so many clothes that didn’t fit right....gave up dressmaking for a few years and just sewed other items. I’m back to dressmaking this year. Sewed my first skirt in January and had enough confidence to completely change the pattern halfway through for a better for. And more ‘me’ garment. ☺️
Wonderful advice! I've been in-between sizes for most of the dresses I've made thus far. I can definitely confirm from personal experience that making sure the bust fits and adjusting the waist/hip measurements is much easier than trying to adjust the bust. On that note, if you need to make waist adjustments, make sure you are adjusting between the waist and the fullest part of the bust (often the bust darts), NOT the armholes or shoulders.
Perhaps it was out of the scope for this video as I understand your goal was to not frustrate a beginner but I always learned to pick a pattern based on the upper bust measurement as that will best fit through the shoulders. Then grade up or down for the waist/ hips and do a full bust/small bust adjustment as needed. This allows us full figured gals to have clothes the show off our curves instead of wearing something shapeless over them.
Excellent video. I know someone else mentioned it but I vote also for a video explaining flattering design elements based on subject size and features. I've gained a few pounds and just feel sloppy. I've never been heavy plus I don't wear dresses or skirts. I generally wear jeans. THanks.
This is the bane of my existence currently. Unfortunately I can't get away without making a bust adjustment unless I make something really loose fitting. Apparently I have a much longer than usual upper body, which means darts are always in the wrong place and need to be both resized and moved down. Being a pear, my hips are much wider than my bust and shoulders so need another adjustment for that.
My daughter and I just started making her first dress (as in, the first one she makes herself), and apparently she’s a unicorn! Perfectly fits one size, in all of the measurements. Though I did have to explain to my size 10AU sometimes 12AU (if it’s really tight) daughter that pattern sizes have NOTHING to do with the sizes you buy in stores. Because she was quite upset that the pattern had her at a size 18/Large. And being 13, she’s rather touchy about her body weight. Though she was super happy when I told her she was a perfect, easy hourglass shape. She was worried she’d be all bust, and not balanced. So I’m glad she was able to feel good about that. And I’m also glad that I’m finally getting her interested in sewing her own clothes. It’s a skill I really want her to learn. And she seems pretty enthusiastic about it, which is lovely.
tahleejade17 we’ll be doing a mock up first, to make sure. There’s 4in of ease, so she may well swim a bit. If that’s the case, we’ll just use the size down. No problems.
Thank you for this. I'm between about 4 sizes on sewing patterns which really confused me as a beginner. My first garment I was so happy with how I had constructed it and was really disappointed when it didn't fit anywhere near on my waist. I'm pretty straight up and down so my waist measurement is much larger than the standard size 10uk which I generally buy off the rail clothing. I was shocked that my waist was coming up as size 20 Uk on seeing patterns😅 My next project is a wrap dress which I'm hoping will be much more successful!
I'm definitely in between three or four sizes! When I was a teenager I didn't have a problem, all patterns fitted, but now it is a very different story! I measure the actual pattern to see how much I need to grade. Usually lots on the waist and hips if the pattern is a semi fitted style. I don't go for really fitted styles as I have too many lumps and bumps and don't want to put them on show! I've had to learn to do a full bust adjustment. Some designers say you should go by the upper bust measurement then do the FBA so that the shoulder width fits but that means, in a dress, there could be a huge amount to grade for the waist and hips. I go by the pattern which method I will choose, I have no hard and fast rule.
Thank you! I am in my 60’s now and returning to sewing. Not a complete beginner, I did sew for myself as a teen into twenties, then for my three children. Needless to say, straight pattern size was my go to. Now I’ve retired and want to reclaim some skills. But to my horror but not a surprise, my shape has changed (!) I span three sizes. Thank you for mentioning what to do when your waist is the real outlier. So straightforward. I appreciate and am inspired by All your videos and advice. They have been a really bright spot in these CoVid months here in Pittsburgh Pa USA. Thank you. Be well. Stay safe.
Yes ,I am pear shaped and it always depends on the pattern. Like you said. For me there are times when I want a quick and easy pattern ( less design lines and ease in fitting) . Then at others l want a more fitted pattern. Learning the difference is important. Knowing style and ease is so much more then it first appears. You will learn more about your body fitting and the changes your body goes through the more you sew. Thanks so much for your videos. You make things easier to learn. Thanks again.
This has been very helpful! I'm a pear shape so the biggest challenge is trying to determine which size pattern to get. Thankfully I'm aware of what styles work best for my shape and it makes a lot of sense to buy patterns that are more flattering...what I didn't realize is that it will also be much easier to sew.
This is extremely helpful--and, yes, I am in between sizes! It also reminds me of one of the things I love about sewing garments--you are always fitting the clothing to your body--not trying to change your body to fit the clothes. Thank you, Evelyn, for sharing your wisdom, experience, and enthusiasm for sewing.
This was very helpful. The most flattering styles for me are often the most tailored so I need to make them fit. My mother (who had had to sew for herself during the Depression) always had a keen eye for easy versus hard patterns. She advised starting with a skirt, vest or loose-fitting dress so there wasn’t too much fiddly fitting for the beginning seamstress.
I came across your channel a few months ago and it really helped me with some pattern lingo I didn't understand. Ive been making costumes for over 5 months and this video really helped me out 😊
Thank you so much. This was so helpful! Especially the part about picking the right style was an eye opener for me. I feel stupid not having realized this myself. Because now that you mentioned it, it's really obvious.
I also thrift shop on discount days for ready to wear clothes that the style may be complimentary for my size, even if the color/surface design is hideous to seam rip/unpick the seams to use as the pattern itself. Many times it is cheaper than a paper pattern.
I am enjoying your videos as they are very imformative and helpful. I would like to know if you have any videos on how to add a pocket to a pants pattern that dosen't have a pocket
I buy multi-size patterns, fortunately I can find them with all my sizes on one patten. Then I taper between measurements. I have no waist, so the waist size is one bigger than the bust size, and two sizes bigger than the hips. Then I baste it together, put it on inside out and have a friend pin it in with safety pins. I prefer flare skirts even though I don’t have much hips, to give an illusion of hips and therefore a waist.
Thank you for your videos! I am a beginner and I just made my first lined tote bag and it didn't take long at all! I am so excited to try your free sewing class on your site and enjoy my beautiful sewing machine I was given by my spouse. I'm so glad I subscribed!
Thank you so much Evelyn. How wonderful to find someone who explains the things to us that other sewing teachers assume we know and understand. I have often wondered where the measurements on the packets come from because I think nearly every person would be in between a few different sizes.
Wow there is a lot to think about. I am going to sew a dress with a t-shirt type material and was going to draw a line on my pattern which will go from my bust measurement to hip measurement to waist. The material I’ve bought is stretchy but doesn’t have enough stretch required on the pattern pick a knit line. Maybe I will just choose by hip size which is what I would usually do. There are no bust darts but there are darts in the back. Any advice gratefully received. I have just found you today and subscribed and saved some of your videos to my sewing folder. Thank you so much for making these.
The Butterick pattern you had in your hand during the intro piece is the very first pattern I ever made. Fortunately it fitted straight out of the packet as I had no idea about fitting back then. I might not have continued if it hadn't. Beginners luck. Now nothing fits straight out of the packet. LOL
It makes the most sense to me to fit the bust and then adjust the rest. There may be times when that is different, but I try to get styles that fit my body better rather than something I like -- because what I like in a pattern doesn't always work for my body. :) Thanks for this info.
To get around issues with fit, I started drafting my own patterns! But if I see a dress pattern I really love and can’t work out how to draft it, I’ll ‘edit’ the pattern by sticking extra paper over parts and then making a mock up. I find it easier to edit patterns rather than try and fit garments 😅
Please, please, please! Can we see another project or haul? I'm enjoying learning so much from these, but so enjoy actually watching you show and tell.
thank youu for your videeoos!! I'm in my first year of clothing design and I tried to use my measurements and my book to help me, and you sure did help me!
Sadly, my largest measurement is my gut (which isn't even on the list). I put on weight in a weird way. I've got a muffin top so I don't know if I can even find my natural waist. LOL. I also have an abnormally short torso. So, I will have to adjust patterns vertically. I did lose some weight but it all seems to have come off my bust. LOL. I'm a big fan of stretch fabrics since I need some give for things to fit me comfortably. I generally wear a size 2x top for stretch fabrics and 1x pants (US sizes). For stuff that doesn't stretch I sometimes have to go with 3x for tops- particularly if they are designed to be tight.
Really enjoy your videos! But the best advice I finally learned as a busty gal for tops, pick size based on high bust and do the full bust adjustment. I used to be 32DD (and hour glass) and for years picked size per my full bust & it was frustrating as shoulders & back were huge for me, but still not enough in front. It's not fun spending hours sewing if it doesn't fit, so learning basic adjustment for cup size is critical. I also started sewing in the late 80s when androngenous look was popular & before curves OK again! Glad more pattern companies are coming out with sizing for different cups--but it's like a super power to be able to modify a pattern for yourself per your own grading & adjustments!!
Great job so helpful on a dress pattern.. for hip’s has choice slim fit or average Or curve fit… Thanks.1. Request if you can make a video on how to use vacuum cleaner attachment to clean out top header and bottom bobbin areas? Do you use a soft lightly oiled rags too? Thanks😊
I always have fit issues, I am petite but also fall between several sizes. I try to look at all the information provided on the pattern, but somehow I end up more confused than ever. Thanks for another brill and informative video Evelyn.
Oh my gosh I finally had time to try making garment, I purchased a simple sweatshirt type pattern. McCalls 8070 Only had European sizes and no finished instructions! Makes me even more thankful to you for your lessons...
I've just started but I'm never a size that is on the pattern so I had to learn out the gate how to alter patterns to fit my sizes lol but it's a great learning experience
Whether it's patterns or ready to wear clothing, I buy the size that fits my biggest measurement (my bust) and then take it in everywhere it's too big. It's easier to take something in that to let it out.
This is sooo helpful! I've been sewing for years but weirdly enough, I only started working with patterns last year and sizes and fits are THE WORST! Thanks Evelyn, like always, you're such an amazing teacher!
Thanks for another informative podcast, Evelyn! Yes, as a pear, I definitely span the sizes.... Thanks for your tip about fit taking time to master - it's an ongoing frustration for me that my fit is never quite *there* yet! Of course I sew in fits and spurts, and my size is constantly slowly changing, doesn't help.
Thank you! I have always had to choose between two to three sizes. I got some vindication on my choices. I always picked the bust and adjusted from there. My mom said just pick from the largest size. That made adjusting the bust harder if it was a dress.
Evelyn, this was SO helpful. I hadn't really ever thought about the design ease in the pattern style to help fit. I don't always have a lot of success with grading between sizes, and picking the right styles from the beginning would help me so much. Thank you!!
Very informative. I have quite a bit of sewing experience and can combine sizes. The advice of choosing your pattern to fit your shape is brilliant. I’m not sure I really ever thought of it this way. So much better to not make extra work for yourself.
Evelyn Wood What would life be if we thought we had no more to learn? My best friend owns a dry cleaners. In the wash and wear world we live in, most of her business comes from mending and alterations. We always talk about different or ‘new’ ways of doing things.
I love your videos! I have learned so much from you. I’m curious to know what you do with your toiles/mock-ups after you’ve made the garments in the “good” fabric. Do you always make a toile, even at your skill level? Thank you, from Canada!
Very helpful ! My tea dress has elastic shearing over my bigger tummy , so I am going fir exact bust size of 43 inches and the final dress size pattern is 43 inches on but , which I want a nice fit on ! . Hoping this works ! But giving it a try !
When I was a beginner and making a two piece item I would sometimes buy two patterns. My husband was a XL on top and a medium waist. Eventually I took some fitting courses when I realized my daughter had a very long body that would need more than an inch added to fit properly.
I'm in between 3-4 sizes and always choose the bust size. Find it fairly easy to scale a pattern down/up in the rest of the pattern. At the same time I know a full bust adjustment would probably fitt me better. But been sewing for a year now and haven't dared to try yet :-P
I’m not good at fitting, so fit basic styles, and then alter features from there. You can add a or take away a pocket, change necklines, etc. this also gives me more time to sew!
Thank you so much for all this lovely information. I love coming and learning new things. I am still in the “wing it” phase, and to be honest, I don’t know if that will ever change. 🙂
This was so helpful Evelyn ! I have not made clothes in a while now, and my shape has changed quite a bit over time. I never before thought to check out the style ! But now I would look carefully, also trying to find something that suits me. Thankyou for sharing this appreciated info.
Thanks again. I'm a beginner level and sizing and need to size up my pattern. Do you have any plans on the following topics doing a sew a long, The difference that curvy girls need when working with commercial patterns, How to identify what shape you are
I used to be a perfect size 8. 32-24-34 many years ago., So I never had to adjust patterns except to shorten pants and long dresses. Sadly, no longer. Could you show how to do a full bust adjustment? I have no clue how to go about it. Thanks.
Evelyn I love watching your channel as I loved vintage patterns and I love what you are wearing and would love to know what patterns you used but you don't put it in the description. If I fit to the bust without a collar I get a gapping neckline. When I started sewing I was a stock size health issue and tablets meant I put on weight but I been losing weight and I now I have all sorts of fitting challenges so I'm gradually learning the adjustments I need to make.
Interesting. When I learned to sew I was never told use the bust measurements. Always the largest measurement. Then I stopped sewing garments. Now I’m about to embark on a mock up of some trousers. I really am not in between sizes. But I find that using the measurement guide doesn’t ensure that the pattern matches up to the measurements. Patterns now are vastly different it seems compared to patterns 30 years ago with fit. Back then the idea of making a mock-up never occurred to me and I was never told to practice first. I just made it and things always fit. Now with new patterns here and there I’ve attempted to make things and they all ended up huge.
Thanks for this video, Evelyn. I've only just found your channel, but all the videos look really informative. I would like to ask about fitting when you have a small bust, but broad back/ribcage and shoulders, meaning that there is far too much fabric over the actual bust. My measurements are 38/35/39, but my actual bust volume is small, the bulk of the bust measurement is from a broad back and ribcage. I also have a large waist, but fairly narrow hips by comparison. Most patterns I've seen assume that waists are 8-10 inches smaller than the bust and that hips are a couple of inches bigger than the bust. Do you have any tips?
Whatever your shape is, there is a fashion decade best suited to it. I used to fit the tailored dresses with small waist & hips of the 1940s, but long-covid weight gain means that 1970s A-line dresses will better accommodate my increased waist size.
I hope this helps you choose better starting pattern sizes! 😀 Do you have the in-between size problem too?
And, If you really want to master this fitting and using patterns thing... join me at www.vintagesewingschool.com/ I'd love to have you in class!
I have sewn for many years but as I have aged my body shape has changed, so I am having to learn to fit and often have to grade between three sizes. This video is a good introduction, thanks.
I would love to see a video showing what style elements look good on various body shapes. A well-fitted garment is always more slimming than a poorly-fitted one, but picking the right style for your body in the first place goes SO much farther. There's so much to learn on this topic. Thanks much!
As a beginner I’m so happy to have found you and your sound advice and tips. Thank you 🙏🏽
This is me ! So here we go ! So pleased there’s a video of this topic,
For the majority of us who aren't the perfect clothing size, there are indie designers who make patterns that offer a much wider range of sizes. Cashmerette is one that comes to mind.
This was such a great breakdown of the thought process and decision making in picking a pattern. I liked how you gave examples for bust, hips, and waist separately. It's that level of detail in your tutorials that make them so helpful for people to learn, because there's no point where you just give one piece of information and assume the student can figure out the rest on their own. Thanks!
Awww thankyou! I'm so glad you enjoy and learn from my videos! Thankyou for always watching, commenting and being such a wonderful member of this community ❤
@@Evelyn__Wood Awh shucks. Happy to be here!
I am all over the place with sizing on commercial patterns! Everything must be adjusted, and it gets frustrating when all I want to do is to sit at my sewing machine and make something! This was a great video. I have learned some ideas here that I am definitely going to try. Thanks for sharing!
I forgot to mention that I appreciate that you have taken the time to address these concerns. Thank you.
I just recently discovered your videos and I love them! You are such a little darling! I have been sewing for over 50 years and I have learned more about sewing watching your videos than I have in the 50 years. Thank you sew much! See what I did there? Suzette Johnson- South Carolina USA.
Thanks for this Evelyn! As a post-menopausal woman, I have had to learn new alteration methods to accommodate my expanded upper belly (sternum to waist). I now gravitate to A-line or Empire waist dresses because of fewer changes. Blouses that have shoulder gathers are good too. My daughter, on the other hand, I fit bodice, taper in 3sizes at waist and always choose A-Line or full skirts. In all honesty, fitting woven pants for either of us is a nightmare. Ponte Roma for the win! 🇨🇦
🤣🤣🤣
I have about the same situation. Perimenopause plus thyroid condition plus injuries that kept me off my feet so I put on weight. I have sort of a "dad bod". LOL. It's so tough to find stuff that fits right.
Ha ! Yes recently started sewing at 66. I have always had trouble buying clothes as shoulder,were small, bust bigger, small waist , large butt. But now I have small shoulders, and then the rest is like a box. Bust, waist, hips only a couple inches off from each other. Soooo welcome to 60 😂😂😂
This makes perfect sense. Thank you so much for explaining ease and how to pick the size when all measurements fall under different sizes!
Thank you! I’m new to sewing by myself, looked at the chart and I’m in between sizes. Again thank you for making this video.
Thank you Evelyn. I have a very small bust in relation to the rest of my body so I always pick the correct bust size, (having taken into account the amount of ease I want in that area) and then extend the waist and hip measurements to fit and flatter me. I have larger thighs than hips so I tend to choose a flared or A line skirt to disguise that. In addition to these alterations I always have to shorten every garment as I’m only 5ft in height with a very short torso. Ready to wear garments have too low a bust line for me so I tend to shorten bodice pieces both above and below the bust line, meaning that sleeve head patterns have to be altered to match! It’s all so complicated but at the end I get a garment which actually fits me. This is what started me sewing in the first place. It’s the only way I can get garments that actually fit!
Thank you very much for all your very helpful videos. Could you please explain in a future video how to choose the right pattern size to choose for women with smaller or bigger cup size than the standard B cup size on patterns.
Excellent video, thank you so much! One thing I’ve noticed just lately that might help others is that, when it comes to my bust measurement, the size of my rib cage is a smaller proportion of that overall measurement than standard (more breast which gives a little, less ribcage which doesn’t.) So, what I’ve realized is that I get a better fit if I follow the *waist* size rather than the bust size! If anyone else out there has a proportionately small bra band size to cup size, as well as a smaller/shorter bust-to-shoulder length, you might find it easier to actually use a smaller size than you think for tops, so you don’t end up with a giant baggy waist.
I am smaller in the hip and have a round middle so, I move front waist darts and pleats toward the hip until the front of the garment lays flat across. If I put them in where directed by the pattern the finished garment bulges and puckers terribly in the front. In this way I can wear fitted through the hip slacks and skirts, which is a style I enjoy wearing, but off the rack looks horrid on me. I also choose patterns that are more flowy from the fitted hip down as this further disguises my more round middle.
Love the old patterns. My mother-in-law gave me heaps of beautiful Vogue patterns from the 50s. She would make a new dress each week to go out to dances on Saturday night.
I got a shirt pattered for my first sewing project. The pattern said easy to sew. If I knew how to sew, it would have been easy! I fumbled through and made a shirt for my husband. He is an xxl so I got the xxl pattern. Wow, it was huge. I sewed two inch sesames in each side. It worked, but not well. My dear husband wore the shirt today!
I guess this is a very long winded way to say that I am learning so much from your videos. I am so glad I found you!
Hi thank for this explanation of how to get a fit by being able to combine two sizes., especially the bust sizes. Thank you again.
Thank you very much! This helps me a great deal!
Sometimes I have to go with bust and just adding two inches on the pattern for underneath the bust. It’s been working for me so far
I’m a beginner and picking a size makes me crazy, my wide hips make sizing so hard. Tried to combine sizes on my last two projects but I’m just not that skilled. I think for now Ill stick to patterns with a fuller bottom portion. This was a very useful video so thank you. All of your videos are!
Awww I'm so glad you found it useful and can apply it to your sewing!! Just keep practicing, you will up skill to combine 2 sizes ❤
OMG yes!!! I have an M waist, but an XL bust and XXL hips in standard sizing charts 😭😭😭😭
This is such an important question that I think beginners don't even know to ask! Thank you so much for this super useful video!
Thank you so much for your very helpful video. My waist is always a couple of sizes larger than my bust and hips, which sounds odd to say out loud. Now that I have I can put away all those patterns for wasp waisted garments that I love the look of but are not going to give me a satisfying result. I think if I stick to something that is fitted in the bust, most patterns have enough easy to accommodate my tummy, like empire line or A line. Also, cannot say how important it is to make a toile. I have one in progress at the moment for my daughter. The final dress will be beaded silk georgette with a matching lining. The basic pattern didn't fit well and I have done a full bust adjustment. Now I feel way more confident to tackle the final product. I watched your tutorial on different seam types and have decided on felled seams for this dress. So grateful for your expertise. Thanks!
When you're choosing your pattern from the pattern book, quite often you'll see symbols representing the different body shapes - small waist is two triangles pointing at each other, small bust/shoulders with large hips is a large triangle pointed up, small hips with large shoulders/bust is a large triangle pointed down, large waist is a square or a circle (I can't quite remember that one and feeling too lazy to rabbit through all my patterns to find out). So that will help with choosing the easier style for your body shape.
Also, a lot of patterns come with multi-sizes these days, so that makes it that much easier to lay baking paper over the top and trace/blend (with a pencil - pens won't work) between the sizes before any cutting out - and you don't destroy the original pattern - and you get your own custom-fit pattern which may only require slight tweaking from that point!
I know vogue patterns do this, but I haven’t seen it on all of them.
Thank you for this comment. I'm a relatively new sewer and I started by creating patterns from clothes i already own. Now I'm looking to start making trousers because current trends really don't work for me. I'm using a pattern that is created in such a way that I'm going to need to work from 3 sizes if I want it to fit, but the pattern has stern warnings about not using more than one pattern size.
I came back to Evelyn's videos to check that if I'm careful I can actually blend waist, hip and inside leg measurements to get something that will fit me better (or at all, come to that) and your comment has given me the confidence to carry on as planned. I'm currently tracing out the sizing I need so that I don't have to work with tissue paper a minute longer than necessary - this won't be a quick project, but hopefully it will be wearable by the time I've made the toile and finessed the adjustments as needed.
I looked through several videos, and I feel so fortunate to have found yours Evelyn!! You speak so clearly, and explain so clearly! I love how many links you have to answer, so far, every question. I am subscribed so now you are this beginning again, more serious about it, senior (68) lady's "goto" teacher. I am really so excited about having you to follow through my new adventure, Denise, Crescent City, California, thank you sooooooo much!!
Thank you for the pointers on fitting. I’m elderly and not the same size and shape I used to be which is why I have decided to make some of my clothing. I have had some surgeries so comfortable clothing that isn’t too tight is a must. It’s reassuring to know that I’m not alone in the quandaries of fitting. I was a nurse and love the practicalities and comfort of scrubs. I think with plain black slacks and maybe a ruffled neckline or other neckline variation
So so helpful. I feel that I much better understand the nuances of pattern sizes. I am beginning to explore making slight adjustments to my patterns to make them fit right, and this game me some info to help me start!
I so appreciat all the videos you've done for us going deep into things like "what is ease?" etc.
I’ve been sewing for years....how did I not know this?? Thankyou! I have made so many clothes that didn’t fit right....gave up dressmaking for a few years and just sewed other items. I’m back to dressmaking this year. Sewed my first skirt in January and had enough confidence to completely change the pattern halfway through for a better for. And more ‘me’ garment. ☺️
I am OBSESSED with your outfit. I was waiting for you to stand up the whole time so I could see the whole ensemble.
Wonderful advice! I've been in-between sizes for most of the dresses I've made thus far. I can definitely confirm from personal experience that making sure the bust fits and adjusting the waist/hip measurements is much easier than trying to adjust the bust. On that note, if you need to make waist adjustments, make sure you are adjusting between the waist and the fullest part of the bust (often the bust darts), NOT the armholes or shoulders.
Perhaps it was out of the scope for this video as I understand your goal was to not frustrate a beginner but I always learned to pick a pattern based on the upper bust measurement as that will best fit through the shoulders. Then grade up or down for the waist/ hips and do a full bust/small bust adjustment as needed. This allows us full figured gals to have clothes the show off our curves instead of wearing something shapeless over them.
Excellent video. I know someone else mentioned it but I vote also for a video explaining flattering design elements based on subject size and features. I've gained a few pounds and just feel sloppy. I've never been heavy plus I don't wear dresses or skirts. I generally wear jeans. THanks.
This is the bane of my existence currently. Unfortunately I can't get away without making a bust adjustment unless I make something really loose fitting. Apparently I have a much longer than usual upper body, which means darts are always in the wrong place and need to be both resized and moved down. Being a pear, my hips are much wider than my bust and shoulders so need another adjustment for that.
My daughter and I just started making her first dress (as in, the first one she makes herself), and apparently she’s a unicorn! Perfectly fits one size, in all of the measurements.
Though I did have to explain to my size 10AU sometimes 12AU (if it’s really tight) daughter that pattern sizes have NOTHING to do with the sizes you buy in stores. Because she was quite upset that the pattern had her at a size 18/Large. And being 13, she’s rather touchy about her body weight.
Though she was super happy when I told her she was a perfect, easy hourglass shape. She was worried she’d be all bust, and not balanced. So I’m glad she was able to feel good about that.
And I’m also glad that I’m finally getting her interested in sewing her own clothes. It’s a skill I really want her to learn. And she seems pretty enthusiastic about it, which is lovely.
I'm an AU10/12 and I sew a 14/16 for myself usually. You may find she swims in the 18 due to the amount of ease in modern patterns
tahleejade17 we’ll be doing a mock up first, to make sure. There’s 4in of ease, so she may well swim a bit. If that’s the case, we’ll just use the size down. No problems.
Thank you for this. I'm between about 4 sizes on sewing patterns which really confused me as a beginner. My first garment I was so happy with how I had constructed it and was really disappointed when it didn't fit anywhere near on my waist. I'm pretty straight up and down so my waist measurement is much larger than the standard size 10uk which I generally buy off the rail clothing. I was shocked that my waist was coming up as size 20 Uk on seeing patterns😅
My next project is a wrap dress which I'm hoping will be much more successful!
Nice video. I'm going for it. A coat.
I'm definitely in between three or four sizes! When I was a teenager I didn't have a problem, all patterns fitted, but now it is a very different story! I measure the actual pattern to see how much I need to grade. Usually lots on the waist and hips if the pattern is a semi fitted style. I don't go for really fitted styles as I have too many lumps and bumps and don't want to put them on show! I've had to learn to do a full bust adjustment. Some designers say you should go by the upper bust measurement then do the FBA so that the shoulder width fits but that means, in a dress, there could be a huge amount to grade for the waist and hips. I go by the pattern which method I will choose, I have no hard and fast rule.
I think that is a great way to do it, there are no hard and fast rules for anything! 😀
Thank you! I am in my 60’s now and returning to sewing. Not a complete beginner, I did sew for myself as a teen into twenties, then for my three children. Needless to say, straight pattern size was my go to. Now I’ve retired and want to reclaim some skills. But to my horror but not a surprise, my shape has changed (!) I span three sizes. Thank you for mentioning what to do when your waist is the real outlier. So straightforward. I appreciate and am inspired by All your videos and advice. They have been a really bright spot in these CoVid months here in Pittsburgh Pa USA. Thank you. Be well. Stay safe.
Love the white dress in the background!
Yes ,I am pear shaped and it always depends on the pattern. Like you said. For me there are times when I want a quick and easy pattern ( less design lines and ease in fitting) . Then at others l want a more fitted pattern. Learning the difference is important. Knowing style and ease is so much more then it first appears. You will learn more about your body fitting and the changes your body goes through the more you sew. Thanks so much for your videos. You make things easier to learn. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching! I agree you definetly learn as you go with fitting your body!
This has been very helpful! I'm a pear shape so the biggest challenge is trying to determine which size pattern to get. Thankfully I'm aware of what styles work best for my shape and it makes a lot of sense to buy patterns that are more flattering...what I didn't realize is that it will also be much easier to sew.
This is extremely helpful--and, yes, I am in between sizes! It also reminds me of one of the things I love about sewing garments--you are always fitting the clothing to your body--not trying to change your body to fit the clothes. Thank you, Evelyn, for sharing your wisdom, experience, and enthusiasm for sewing.
This was very helpful. The most flattering styles for me are often the most tailored so I need to make them fit. My mother (who had had to sew for herself during the Depression) always had a keen eye for easy versus hard patterns. She advised starting with a skirt, vest or loose-fitting dress so there wasn’t too much fiddly fitting for the beginning seamstress.
Evelyn, I look forward to your videos, there’s always lots of good information.
I came across your channel a few months ago and it really helped me with some pattern lingo I didn't understand. Ive been making costumes for over 5 months and this video really helped me out 😊
Thank you so much. This was so helpful!
Especially the part about picking the right style was an eye opener for me. I feel stupid not having realized this myself. Because now that you mentioned it, it's really obvious.
🤣🤣 I know, its only obvious when you know! I'm glad you take this trick to your sewing! 😀
I also thrift shop on discount days for ready to wear clothes that the style may be complimentary for my size, even if the color/surface design is hideous to seam rip/unpick the seams to use as the pattern itself. Many times it is cheaper than a paper pattern.
I am enjoying your videos as they are very imformative and helpful. I would like to know if you have any videos on how to add a pocket to a pants pattern that dosen't have a pocket
I buy multi-size patterns, fortunately I can find them with all my sizes on one patten. Then I taper between measurements. I have no waist, so the waist size is one bigger than the bust size, and two sizes bigger than the hips. Then I baste it together, put it on inside out and have a friend pin it in with safety pins. I prefer flare skirts even though I don’t have much hips, to give an illusion of hips and therefore a waist.
Thank you for your videos! I am a beginner and I just made my first lined tote bag and it didn't take long at all! I am so excited to try your free sewing class on your site and enjoy my beautiful sewing machine I was given by my spouse. I'm so glad I subscribed!
Wonderful!! The free class will get you started on your new machine! 😄 And far beyond if you decide to join as a member!
Amazing video, Evelyn. Today I'm watching all your ease/fit/size videos again, as I'll be starting soon with another project. Thanks!
Thank you so much Evelyn. How wonderful to find someone who explains the things to us that other sewing teachers assume we know and understand. I have often wondered where the measurements on the packets come from because I think nearly every person would be in between a few different sizes.
Wow there is a lot to think about. I am going to sew a dress with a t-shirt type material and was going to draw a line on my pattern which will go from my bust measurement to hip measurement to waist. The material I’ve bought is stretchy but doesn’t have enough stretch required on the pattern pick a knit line. Maybe I will just choose by hip size which is what I would usually do. There are no bust darts but there are darts in the back. Any advice gratefully received. I have just found you today and subscribed and saved some of your videos to my sewing folder. Thank you so much for making these.
The Butterick pattern you had in your hand during the intro piece is the very first pattern I ever made. Fortunately it fitted straight out of the packet as I had no idea about fitting back then. I might not have continued if it hadn't. Beginners luck. Now nothing fits straight out of the packet. LOL
It makes the most sense to me to fit the bust and then adjust the rest. There may be times when that is different, but I try to get styles that fit my body better rather than something I like -- because what I like in a pattern doesn't always work for my body. :) Thanks for this info.
Thanks Evelyn, makes sense. Choose patterns wisely. 😀😀
To get around issues with fit, I started drafting my own patterns! But if I see a dress pattern I really love and can’t work out how to draft it, I’ll ‘edit’ the pattern by sticking extra paper over parts and then making a mock up. I find it easier to edit patterns rather than try and fit garments 😅
Ive been doing the same thing for years. Im now trying to do the proper adjustments and Im finding the fit and style to be better.
Please, please, please! Can we see another project or haul? I'm enjoying learning so much from these, but so enjoy actually watching you show and tell.
thank youu for your videeoos!! I'm in my first year of clothing design and I tried to use my measurements and my book to help me, and you sure did help me!
Awww thanks wonderful to know! I'm so glad I can help you on your sewing journey!
Sadly, my largest measurement is my gut (which isn't even on the list). I put on weight in a weird way. I've got a muffin top so I don't know if I can even find my natural waist. LOL. I also have an abnormally short torso. So, I will have to adjust patterns vertically. I did lose some weight but it all seems to have come off my bust. LOL.
I'm a big fan of stretch fabrics since I need some give for things to fit me comfortably. I generally wear a size 2x top for stretch fabrics and 1x pants (US sizes). For stuff that doesn't stretch I sometimes have to go with 3x for tops- particularly if they are designed to be tight.
Thank you I have ve got it ! Well done fir clarity !
Really enjoy your videos! But the best advice I finally learned as a busty gal for tops, pick size based on high bust and do the full bust adjustment. I used to be 32DD (and hour glass) and for years picked size per my full bust & it was frustrating as shoulders & back were huge for me, but still not enough in front.
It's not fun spending hours sewing if it doesn't fit, so learning basic adjustment for cup size is critical. I also started sewing in the late 80s when androngenous look was popular & before curves OK again! Glad more pattern companies are coming out with sizing for different cups--but it's like a super power to be able to modify a pattern for yourself per your own grading & adjustments!!
Always very illuminating! Thanks 🙏🏻
Great job so helpful on a dress pattern.. for hip’s has choice slim fit or average Or curve fit…
Thanks.1. Request if you can make a video on how to use vacuum cleaner attachment to clean out top header and bottom bobbin areas? Do you use a soft lightly oiled rags too? Thanks😊
I always have fit issues, I am petite but also fall between several sizes. I try to look at all the information provided on the pattern, but somehow I end up more confused than ever. Thanks for another brill and informative video Evelyn.
Oh my gosh I finally had time to try making garment, I purchased a simple sweatshirt type pattern. McCalls 8070 Only had European sizes and no finished instructions! Makes me even more thankful to you for your lessons...
Super helpful video!!
I've just started but I'm never a size that is on the pattern so I had to learn out the gate how to alter patterns to fit my sizes lol but it's a great learning experience
Whether it's patterns or ready to wear clothing, I buy the size that fits my biggest measurement (my bust) and then take it in everywhere it's too big. It's easier to take something in that to let it out.
This is sooo helpful! I've been sewing for years but weirdly enough, I only started working with patterns last year and sizes and fits are THE WORST! Thanks Evelyn, like always, you're such an amazing teacher!
Thanks for another informative podcast, Evelyn! Yes, as a pear, I definitely span the sizes.... Thanks for your tip about fit taking time to master - it's an ongoing frustration for me that my fit is never quite *there* yet! Of course I sew in fits and spurts, and my size is constantly slowly changing, doesn't help.
Thank you! I have always had to choose between two to three sizes. I got some vindication on my choices. I always picked the bust and adjusted from there. My mom said just pick from the largest size. That made adjusting the bust harder if it was a dress.
Right!!! Blanket advice and standard rules are ok, and do work alot of the time, but understanding why and what your doing is better 😀😀
Evelyn, this was SO helpful. I hadn't really ever thought about the design ease in the pattern style to help fit. I don't always have a lot of success with grading between sizes, and picking the right styles from the beginning would help me so much. Thank you!!
Very informative. I have quite a bit of sewing experience and can combine sizes. The advice of choosing your pattern to fit your shape is brilliant. I’m not sure I really ever thought of it this way. So much better to not make extra work for yourself.
I'm glad you sill picked up a new skill Susan! It's amazing isn't it, just sometimes a new way at looking at something, opens so many new doors! 😀
Evelyn Wood What would life be if we thought we had no more to learn? My best friend owns a dry cleaners. In the wash and wear world we live in, most of her business comes from mending and alterations. We always talk about different or ‘new’ ways of doing things.
I totally agree! There is always more to learn and sharing stories is the best way! ❤
I love your videos! I have learned so much from you. I’m curious to know what you do with your toiles/mock-ups after you’ve made the garments in the “good” fabric. Do you always make a toile, even at your skill level? Thank you, from Canada!
Very helpful ! My tea dress has elastic shearing over my bigger tummy , so I am going fir exact bust size of 43 inches and the final dress size pattern is 43 inches on but , which I want a nice fit on ! . Hoping this works ! But giving it a try !
Thanks sooo much for sharing!❤️
When I was a beginner and making a two piece item I would sometimes buy two patterns. My husband was a XL on top and a medium waist. Eventually I took some fitting courses when I realized my daughter had a very long body that would need more than an inch added to fit properly.
I'm in between 3-4 sizes and always choose the bust size. Find it fairly easy to scale a pattern down/up in the rest of the pattern. At the same time I know a full bust adjustment would probably fitt me better. But been sewing for a year now and haven't dared to try yet :-P
I’m not good at fitting, so fit basic styles, and then alter features from there. You can add a or take away a pocket, change necklines, etc. this also gives me more time to sew!
What a great video! Thank you. So helpful.
Thank you so much for all this lovely information. I love coming and learning new things. I am still in the “wing it” phase, and to be honest, I don’t know if that will ever change. 🙂
This was so helpful Evelyn ! I have not made clothes in a while now, and my shape has changed quite a bit over time. I never before thought to check out the style ! But now I would look carefully, also trying to find something that suits me. Thankyou for sharing this appreciated info.
I do not sew. Your videos make me want to learn!
Loved this video! Gave me a whole new look at my patterns. Thank you so much!
Thanks again. I'm a beginner level and sizing and need to size up my pattern. Do you have any plans on the following topics
doing a sew a long,
The difference that curvy girls need when working with commercial patterns,
How to identify what shape you are
Thank you! This is so informative!
I used to be a perfect size 8. 32-24-34 many years ago., So I never had to adjust patterns except to shorten pants and long dresses. Sadly, no longer. Could you show how to do a full bust adjustment? I have no clue how to go about it. Thanks.
A perfect straight size!!! 😀 You're the first!! A full bust adjustment workshop will be coming to Vintage Sewing School soon 😀
Awesome! I'd love to know too my 55" bust doesn't seem to exist in most patterns even plus size. 🥴
Thank you Evelyn. Good information.
Thanks!
Very positive video! Thanks so much!!
Evelyn I love watching your channel as I loved vintage patterns and I love what you are wearing and would love to know what patterns you used but you don't put it in the description. If I fit to the bust without a collar I get a gapping neckline. When I started sewing I was a stock size health issue and tablets meant I put on weight but I been losing weight and I now I have all sorts of fitting challenges so I'm gradually learning the adjustments I need to make.
Interesting. When I learned to sew I was never told use the bust measurements. Always the largest measurement. Then I stopped sewing garments. Now I’m about to embark on a mock up of some trousers. I really am not in between sizes. But I find that using the measurement guide doesn’t ensure that the pattern matches up to the measurements. Patterns now are vastly different it seems compared to patterns 30 years ago with fit. Back then the idea of making a mock-up never occurred to me and I was never told to practice first. I just made it and things always fit. Now with new patterns here and there I’ve attempted to make things and they all ended up huge.
Thanks for this video, Evelyn. I've only just found your channel, but all the videos look really informative. I would like to ask about fitting when you have a small bust, but broad back/ribcage and shoulders, meaning that there is far too much fabric over the actual bust. My measurements are 38/35/39, but my actual bust volume is small, the bulk of the bust measurement is from a broad back and ribcage. I also have a large waist, but fairly narrow hips by comparison. Most patterns I've seen assume that waists are 8-10 inches smaller than the bust and that hips are a couple of inches bigger than the bust. Do you have any tips?
That's such a helpful video, thank you SO much!
Whatever your shape is, there is a fashion decade best suited to it.
I used to fit the tailored dresses with small waist & hips of the 1940s, but long-covid weight gain means that 1970s A-line dresses will better accommodate my increased waist size.
"...you don't learn in a weekend..." Challenge accepted!! Well, not this weekend. And probably not next weekend. But some weekend! 😆