I tried so hard to get my mother-in-law to understand that the size number doesn’t matter. You can look larger wearing too small size that shows bulges and bunching up and gaping between buttons while looking smaller in a large, but appropriate size. It’s about looking nice- not the number on a tag or pattern.
I know, for some of us, it's really hard to get over what the number says. But of course when you do, you can start making clothes that actually fit 😀 just as you say!
The silly part is that when we get beyond the numbers and sew something in our size, especially when we take the time to adjust a garment to fit us well, the result looks fantastic.
That is so, so true! I remember when I was a kid 30 yrs ago (30?!😁), I had gone to a skating rink. This lady there was skinny, truely skinny, but for some reason wearing clothes 2 sizes too small. I don't know about you, but I don't remember random strangers' clothes unless they are extraordinary. All other memories are beautiful outfits. And that lady. She's seered into my memory; red shirt, white pants, waaaay too tight. Just remember, folks, we do not know what number you are wearing. But we'll notice if it doesn't fit! Disclaimer: She was dressed in nice clothes, so pretty sure she wasn't homeless. In fact, I think I was on base (grew up military). If this was a homeless person, I wouldn't criticize. But she looked like she had means, but made this terrible mistake anyway....
My aunt at one point wouldn't buy something if it was the wrong size number. She was set in her mind that she was a size and nothing but that size! She would look for items that fit big so they would look right and be the right size.
"Don't ever get caught up on what the numbers are" You can never say that enough. That alone nearly put me off of sewing. But it is just a number, and much like trying on clothes in a dressing room, nobody but you and the mirror will know your shame.-And when you sew the clothes, and fit them just right, no one will care what "size" it is -- it fits and looks wonderful. My biggest struggle in fitting (once I got past the numbers,) was doing the actual pinning. My mother and sister could pin things on each other, pin stuff on themselves, no problem. I have watched both pin blouses and fitted skirts on themselves-, with no outside help- AMAZING! No weird bumps, no lumps, nothing is lopsided or crooked. This, of course, gives beginning sewists ALL KINDS of WRONG ideas, like Yeah, you pin it on yourself and you are good to go. NO! It literally took me until my very next paycheck to buy a dress dummy. My mother and sister don't like her, they say she's hard to work with, but I love her, and can't sew without her. My first dummy finally died earlier this year after 20 years of faithful service, and I bought a larger one that I didn't have to pad up (funny how having kids and aging will change your shape!) But then, about a month ago, I put a skirt on her, and it was WAY TOO BIG! I put the skirt on me -- it was a little too tight. I measured me -- same as always. I measured Kim (that's her name) -- and found she'd gone on a diet! She was WAY smaller than her dials said she was set for! Turns out, all of the screws that hold the dials to the form were just loose enough to slip every time I put a heavy skirt on her. With a little bit of undignified effort, I got the screws back in their correct positions, got everything tightened back up, and Kim is back to being her useful, ample self.
If you want thorough explanations on fitting, altering and using patterns, join VSS as she goes into the deepest studying of the above and I guarantee that it will open your eyes to true using, fitting and altering patterns that you will ever be exposed to. Evelyn is a true pro!
Awww 🥰 thanks for the shout out Joy! With just a little guidance from VSS it has been wonderful to watch you skills grow so fast! Imagine what you'll be making in a year's time! 😀
There is so much work in getting a pattern to fit my busty, pear shaped body that I don't tend to buy many patterns. I always have to complete a fba, shuffle darts and bust point, blend between sizes and alter lengths and that is when the pattern comes from an indie designer I am familiar with... big 4 patterns are a step into the completely unknown. Once I have altered a pattern to suit what I want, I tend to remake it and remake it. It is absolute bliss to be able to just cut out a garment and sew it up. Granted I still check my measurements against those recorded at the time of altering the pattern... I hate sewing surprises.
Probably my biggest gripe about patterns is ease. Why do the major pattern companies think it's a good idea to put vital information on the pattern pieces when it should be on the envelope? Ease is so important it can effect the decision of which pattern to buy. Very often the finished measurements of actual garments do not match the photos on the envelope. This is because the garments made for the models were made by the designers well before the patterns were finalized by the pattern makers and sent for printing. If you take the pattern home, unfold it and find out it's not going to work for you you're probably out of luck because most stores don't accept pattern returns. This is a good reason for using indie patterns. Most of these people design the garments and make the patterns themselves rather than handing it off to someone else. They had issues with ease when they learned to sew so they're usually more upfront about how much ease they use. The patterns cost more but it's usually worth it.
@@theardentarcher I have only watched her videos, so far, but plan to buy from her in future. Some of it's not my style, but still cute. Rosery Apparel.
Full bust adjustments coupled with a short torso! I want to run from the room screaming. Some patterns do include adjustments for fuller busts but only up to D cups which indicate they’re completely unaware/don’t care there’s a lot more do the alphabet beyond D. For example 38 G= me😳
My biggest struggle has been the arm scye. I thought for a while that maybe it felt like my sleeves were digging in because I just wasn’t used to woven fabrics. Nope! My shoulders rotate forward (poor posture, probably, but here I am), and I need a deeper, almost square-cut arm hole. Now I know.
I’m very short and the difference between my waist and hip measurements means they will always be different sizes. Honestly I find it easier sometimes to just draw up my own patterns. It’s just as much work as all of the alterations I have to do, and I have more control over the fit from the beginning
Me too. I use the master pattern kits from Sure Fit Designs and create my own patterns that fit me from the start instead of having to work adjustments and grading and hoping the changes in the waist height won't throw out something round the hips or the bust.
This is why I make more garments from the clothes I already have, rather than buying new patterns. Modern patterns (and ready to wear clothes) don’t usually cater for people like me who are seated in a wheelchair all day, so making my own is vital. I usually have to make the top of sleeves wider and the length of them shorter or they’re too tight and get filthy! Billie.
@@gigijohnson3211 - I don’t cut into my clothes to make new ones, I smooth them out on top of the new fabric, panel by panel, and draw around them, then cut them out adding a seam allowance and sew them together. It’s like making clones, not re-fashioning items. The original version lives on! (...although I am making smaller clothes as I have lost lots of weight during lockdown! - my sister gained about the same amount of weight as I lost, so there has been some clothes swapping too!)
@@billiebluesheepie2907 My favourite clothing I've made was copied from garments I already had, I'd trace it out onto wrapping paper and keep the pattern and note any adjustments I'd make (usually I messed up the neckline as I figured out how to do facings), my biggest problem is because I keep starting with stuff that already fits, I have no idea how to take something that doesn't fit and make it work... and modifying things to be comfortably sat in is another thing, my maid of honour modified the princess dress pattern we used for the bridesmaids so that it was a two-piece for one of my bridesmaids who was also in a wheelchair. I wouldn't have known how to do it...
Thank you! When I was younger I used to make all my own clothes from commercial patterns and all was well. Then I had a long break and came back to it. I took my measurements, took a hit to my pride when the pattern said I was a size 18-20 (in bought clothes I’d gone from 12 - 14) then when I sewed the garment it absolutely swam on me! Like, at least 2 maybe 3 sizes too big! And that was supposed to be a fitted pattern! So much effort wasted, not to mention the cost of fabrics because sewing is not cheaper than buying readymade these days! Trying to downsize after the pattern has been cut (and sewn) has only limited success, especially with trousers. It’s so disheartening. I’m about to have another go (Vogue 1859) but am still very nervous. At least I know to look for finished measurements but they generally don’t provide the really necessary ones for fit.
I would love to see some pattern adjustments for plus sizes. It seems like larger patterns are just bigger versions of the smaller ones which doesn't really take essential differences into account. Like larger upper arms, bust, etc.
I love how precise you are with language. Where you almost said "better" and said "more skilled" instead. Because you didn't want us to think we weren't good at all ❤
Or our teachers neglected to teach - one pattern type fits all - except the patterns our Home Ec teacher chose was fine for small petite girls & the size range stopped at 14 - when there were several of us in the size 18 - 24's that didn't fit that pattern & she got upset with having to find another pattern that got the points she was supposed to teach us... Needless to say a lot of things didn't fit....
Thank you Evelyn. You explain things without complaining about them and that is very much appreciated. When I was a pre-teen learning to sew, each pattern had only one size. My mother told me to fit my bust because it was "easier' to grade patterns from there. I was thrilled when the Big 4 started to multi-size patterns because it provided more guidance for me. But again, as you have frequently explained, sewing patterns have always assumed the home sewist was already knowledgable about basic construction techniques and therefore only provided minimum instruction. My biggest (no pun intended) fitting issue is around my ribcage, which is now bigger than my waist and only slightly smaller than my bust, due to illness. So I, for one, appreciate wearing ease of 4 - 6 inches as long as the bust and shoulders fit. You really are a star!
For me that video comes about 15 years too late :O)))) I learned it the hard way, a very hard way. And I stopped sewing for a long time, because back then I got why this doesn't work, but had no clue how to fit something for my a bit more demanding figure. Years later I stumbled accross the old Craftsy and there I learned garment construction from scratch, there it clicked. And this a. helped me to get clothes for my and b. helped me understand what I have to do to alter something and how things work together. These instructions where a hard learning curve for my English as well, because in German (yeah I'm German) there is nothing usefull around and sewing is a pretty dead art. The only german pattern company is garbage in my mind and I - till today - stay away from their patterns. Today I'm working with a mix of pattern sewing and drafting. Also I love the often helpfull little tips and tricks I learn from sites like yours :O)
Thanks, Evelyn! My biggest challenge when fitting patterns is my petite body, particularly my torso; petites don’t just hem sleeves and pants and call it a day! Right now I’m making my first coat 😬 and I’m trying to figure out how to shorten the armscye without completing screwing up the sleeve. I’m working on a muslin that I cut out of drop cloth canvas and I *think* I have it figured out by going down a size in that area. 🤞🏼 I’d definitely be interested in videos about petite-ifying patterns!
I hear you on behalf of my daughter who’s 4’11”! We’re making her first hand sewn garment which happens to also be a coat, brave or stupid? I dunno but I’ve been sewing garments for 37 years with a pretty big gap in the middle so we’re studying the alterations needed to fit a petite size and toiling with toileing, (A LOT!) but are taking our sweet time and we’re both learning (A LOT!) as we go, best of luck to you!
I'm 5 foot 1 and no patterns (and shop bought clothes) fit me right. It's sooooo frustrating! I always have to take patterns up at the l/s line so much. It's mental 🤣😭
Hi 👋 This subject has been a HUGE problem for me!! I'm obviously not the same size that I used to be. Now I'm struggling to find the right fit in pattern sizes because ALL of my garments are going to the TRASH!! Soooooo I am requesting that you keep these types of videos coming because I NEED this so much!! I can't fit myself AT ALL!! I NEED HELP !!
Standard patterns and off the rack clothing do not consider women with long back to waist length and apple shaped women. Could you address these problems. Thanks
I have had the most trouble fitting my shoulders, upper back, and arms. I have a small bust, but my shoulders are broad and square, my biceps are on the bigger side, and my upper back tends to feel tight because of my broad shoulders. I have learned how to do both a broad shoulder adjustment and a square shoulder adjustment, but it’s tough to figure out when to do it when looking at a new pattern.
I think your right Nicole! You can learn the adjustment tutorial (what I call the science of pattern making) but the real hard part and skill is the knowing when, where and how much to do for the adjustment, this is the at of pattern making as I say!
Haha. Yes. Being German, I only ever used Burda patterns, until I got into pattern drafting and upcycling second hand clothes. They do not give you ease or the finished garment measurements. I recently used an old shirt dress pattern I had still laying around, chose the size according to the measurements chart and the thing turned out big enough, to wear it as a coat. And it's a very tailored, form-fitting design with darts front and back and set in sleeves, so definitely not meant to be baggy or oversized. Well. At least it's easy, to compare the pattern pieces to an existing garment, since they don't have seam allowance included already - which is what I should have done, of course. I had just 'repressed' the memory of that particular issue, apparently 😆
I've been sewing since I was about 14 and have always been frustrated by the pattern sizing as compared to ready nude sizing. Thank you for explaining this difference.
Omg THANK YOU for this. EVERY Pattern I have ever used is gigantic in the bust and I have NEVER understood why!!!!! It has been maddening! I had gotten to the point where I actually though that somehow there was a problem with my body lol!! Life. Changing. 😸
My biggest problem is my changing body. For years I had a med. Bust a sm. waist and lg. Hips. Now that I'm older I have gained a few pounds and my bust is larger, waist larger and I now have a stomach, my hips are a little larger.
Just the video I needed! I had a pattern where the measurements suggested me a size that had me *very skeptical*. So I guesstimated off the bust measurement of the pattern pieces and subtracted some ease and seam allowance to see which was closer. So I sized it down. Except I was too careful I didn't size it down enough, so I'm going to have to alter it a bit more. Oops!
I’ve given up on the big four paper patterns and strictly use Indie pdf patterns for a perfect fit. Typically indie patterns provide so much more information regarding positive or negative ease. For myself I often grade to two or three sizes depending on the pattern. Being able to print the exact sizes I need is so much easier and they are color coded so I can actually see them clearly. There are a few companies out there that even draft Petite, Reg, and Tall files. What a game changer! You’ve done a wonderful job of explaining pattern information!
I have been sewing for patterns from the BURDA newspaper (popular in Europe) for over 30 years and I have had to constantly redo the patterns even though they are my size. For the last 10 years I have made a pattern for individual pieces of clothing according to my measurements, I am very satisfied because I can use my pattern's in different variants from classic to modern, it's easier 😊
Having someone who understands fit to describe the issue. Of course nowadays with a camera in everyone's pocket I should try again. My issue is as a man there is a limited range if patterns and I have wide shoulders and a tummy so that can get tricky when adjusting. Most of my sewing lately has been bags and other non garment items. But I also recently started looking for all the patterns available online so might give it a go again.
Thankfully I saw this in my recommended BEFORE I started work 😂 I think my first project will just be making a pattern from a existing piece of my mom's (just copying the pieces and seam allowance, then piecing it together like her existing scrubs top) but definitely useful for once I get into actual patterns
thank you for sharing this information, I have not made a dress in a long time and a friend has asked for my help making on for a party next year. She is a verylarge lady and although I have her measurements I never gave a thought to ease. The dress would have been a disaster.
The only problem with the bust, hip etc, (ease, )being printed on the actual pattern itself, you would either buy the pattern take it home to open it or attempt to open in the shop, which is not a good idea because you would have issues getting it back in the package. Btw great information, thank you
I made a lot of my own clothes from the time I learned to sew in the 7th grade. I stopped when I gained a lot of weight and got older. Things shift and I have to make adjustments to the patterns and I don’t feel confident in making those adjustments. It’s just too easy and cheaper to buy retail. I still sew for my home though. I guess I will have to check out your sewing school. I have multiple books etc on garment fitting but I get frustrated. I had it easy because I could buy a pattern, sew it up and it would fit. Thanks for inspiring me to give garment sewing a try again.
Great video. They're always so good! My biggest trouble in fitting is often my shoulders across because I am so broad and also the arms eye and upper sleeve because i got the muscles. Haha. But yeah the rest of me in smaller in comparison and i find those really hard to fit.
My biggest problem in adjusting patterns to my body shape?... well... I had a double mastectomy so flat-flat and even curved-in flat for the breast and a little bump🤔 (maybe a little bit more than a little bump) under named tummy 😳 so ... that is my problem and nowhere I can find patterns for women who are flat, be it because they are very small breast or had double mastectomy. I said to myself I will go toward adolescent patterns but even there, there is bigger forms for the tops... so what... going for child patterns for an adult body? I don't know what to do anymore. I find that sad as when you have passed through the trauma of having your breast taken off, you feel kind of less "feminine" and having nice patterns or learn how to modify patterns to fit this new strange body would be sooooo helpful. What could be your suggestions, dear Evelyn? Love your videos, by the way 🌹
I really feel for you and wish I had an answer or even a suggestion other than making a small bust adjustment to take all of the excess fabric out if that’s what you’re going for? I will say that I hope you’re healthy and well. We all complain about the issues with pattern sizing but I’ve never even given a shape such as yours a moment’s thought and haven’t heard anyone else mention it either but I’ll definitely be mindful in the future, I truly hope that you find a way to enable you to sew the wardrobe of your dreams 😊
@@rhonddalesley Yes, I am OK... I was the lucky one. The surgeon took everything out and pathology said that there was no metastasis and no invasion so I didn't even need to have chemo or radiation... I was blessed in all that ugly procedure. And yes, I will find a way... just that it is a bit hard to figure it all as my problem is the tummy that makes me look pregnant as the breast is not there anymore 😊 ... Thank you for your concern and kind words 🌹
I too have had a double masectomy. I am now fine but if you decided on no implants and I tried but it just did not work for me. So I ask have you not looked into a masectomy bra and forms? If nothing else, it will make you feel like you have some feminity back. When we undertake the horrors of a masectomy we don't need to look in the mirror with our clothes on and feel less than because we no longer have our breasts. There is help available for us so why not take advantage of it? We have the constant reminder with our clothes off but when you can look in the mirror with clothes on it's no longer there for the time you are dressed. At least for me. I don't think you are going to find a pattern for flat/small breasted, larger waisted women without a little adjustment for yourself.
@@debcurtis5364 No, I don't have implants. I knitted myself some knockers and put them in a sport bra but, as I was not a big breast to begin with, I never wore bras and it really feel uncomfortable to wear those things 😊 Of course, if I really love a pattern that require a bust, I can always wear this for an evening out or special occasion but wearing them everyday? I am not sure. But I am sure I will find a way to adapt something for myself on a day-to-day basis... and who knows, maybe I could just design patterns for the ones who are searching like me? Thank you for your comment and suggestion. Hope you are well. Take care 🌹
Evelyn, I am so thankful to have found your site. I tried sewing my own clothes several years ago and gave up. I am now trying it again, so tired of over-paying and purchasing commercial clothes that are not me. Your videos are incredibly clear and answer my questions thoroughly. I finished attempt my top...which was toooooo big. This video helped me to understand why and I am determined to get it right with another attempt. You also solved my jamming thread issue on another video. thank you!
I've just started my first dress, and my first problem was - buying the wrong size pattern! Online only had the sizes (not the measurements), and when it arrived all the sizes that pattern had were way too small - I had to buy the next one up! I know they vary from the US/EU sizes, but the difference on this one was quite ridiculous - I've apparently gone up about 6 sizes :-D
I really needed this. I’m a beginner with this and bought a pajama pattern last week. I was so frustrated trying figure out why the sizing was so off from what I thought it should be. Thanks!
Good afternoon my sewing friend I am so glad you make this video because I thought I was having understanding problems thank you so much for clearing that and my trouble is drafting a design and make it fits
You explained well, the 'roominess' or 'ease' in a finished garment, from the body measurements, but getting patterns to fit my personal needs has always been tricky. Might be helpful for me to have some lessons in making those adjustments. I'll look into your classes. Thanks for a helpful video.
The good news is, most of us only have 1-3 fit 'issues' we need to adjust for. So you only need to learn a few that apply to you, and just master the intricacies of those to just know what to do on any pattern! This is exactly what we do at Vintage Sewing School, if love to have you in class, if you have any questions just send an email to info@evelynwood.com.au 😀
When I was in sewing class many years ago, the teacher had us pin the pattern pieces together at the seam lines and try them on over a slip, to get an idea of the final fit. Our moms weren't going spend good money on muslin for mockups, and this was a thrifty alternative.
So far it’s that I can’t find any patterns in my size. The largest I see the ones at the store go up to are a size 22, which is my size, but even with the ease it’s much too small. I’m definitely going to have to add a lot to this pattern I got to make it fit
New sewer. Getting ready to start my first garment with my Mother's help. I just watched your video on understanding garment construction. There is so much wonderful information in that video. I am happy to see you are still making videos.
As a teen I wanted to sew a cute top. I carefully looked up my measurements on the pattern to find the size I needed. My mother saw the number and said oh no, you can't possibly take that size - and she recommended I make it two sizes smaller. I figured she must know what she was talking about, so I got the smaller pattern. I put so much work into it, excited to wear my own creation...and it turned out way too small! I was never able to wear it. I was gutted, and my self-esteem took quite a hit. I felt it was my fault that my body didn't fit the size number it was supposed to be. It might have been just as well, though, as I'd chosen a fabric the same color as the illustration on the pattern envelope - which looked great on the model with completely different coloring but would have been terrible on me.
I have been trying to sew garments for YEARS! I do nice curtains, etc. But garments are a whole different story. I had no idea just how much I didn't know till I found your videos. Thank you so much for all of them. I will be joining your school soon. I'm almost 70. Is it too late for me?
That’s why you should join VSS 😉. She made a course that is SOO long and goes so in-depth that after you watch that, you can call yourself a master in pattern reading 😁
Wow, that is what I need. I get so confused with the directions given on sewing patterns and sometimes the pictures are not clear and hard to decipher. I have been thinking of joining VSS.
@@Evelyn__Wood Using a pattern, I was trying to make pajamas one day and, the Pajamas' had a collar. The directions became unclear on the pattern as to how to attach the collar. I remember you said once that a pattern is a tool, it's not really intended to give clear directions, it assumes that you know how to sew. I guess I'm wondering if sewing school will allow me to learn how to sew clothing and help me to see the pattern as a tool. Because right now, as a new sewer, I feel so dependant on the directions that come in the pattern.
I use to have this problem because my weight yoyo's so I learned from a few of your videos and a friend who sews for a living to measure my body, measure the pattern pieces and copy the pattern pieces on brown paper adding the ease I want.
I was never taught to take the average of my measurements. I was only taught small, medium and large. Lots of cutting and refitting. Ugh. Thank you Evelyn!
Thank you! Very informative. I'm learning to sew my own clothing by watching your videos first. (I've just had shoulder surgery and am in the healing stage)When I'm all done with the videos and the healing, I'm going to dive in. I have always loved the vintage clothing of the '30's - '60's and would love to buy and fix or make my own. Thank you for such great educational videos that, hopefully, will facilitate those dreams. 😘
Thank you, Evelyn. This video was refreshing and straight to the point. I love your series about sizing, ease and fitting. I kept wondering about the full-bust adjustments, as I often have to play with three different sizes to select with one would be the most suitable for me. :)
Thank you! Wonderfully helpful as always 🙂. I think the hardest for me is that I have a smaller bust but curvy hips. Luckily on lots of historical garments this isn't an issue given the loose fitting from the waist down but it's hard for me with dresses from the 40s which are my absolute favorite.
Right! Picking the right silhouette that just helps you make clothes that fit, just makes it so much easier! I think you're up for the 1940s challenge though! 😀
This is so helpful! I'm new to sewing. After making several pairs of PJ's I've just made two skirts with a fitted waistband, one for me and one for my daughter. Both are way too big! I took both of our measurements (ignoring my off the peg size) but it still went wrong. Now I feel like I have a starting point for trying again. On my pattern there is a finished garment size so I'll see if I can size down. Thanks again!
The Bust. The Bust is my nemesis. I am a G cup and quite heavy so nothing is in the right place, LOL. And small shoulders. Once I didn't have time to sew for a while so I got a dressmaker to do it for me. The finished garment looked like I was wearing a sack big enough for 3 people and the shoulders kept falling off - and this was after the second fitting. I don't know what happened and never went back again.
Boobs aren’t as fun as they sound! Especially not when you have to make garments for them. ☹️ 36H & hips just as curvy but I’m short, kinda like a compacted hourglass. They don’t make patterns for those curves.
My body, ha ha ha. Thank you for addressing my "pains"... 1. Long-waisted (17 1/2" or 44.45cm). All my patterns have to be lengthened at the waistline. 2. Broad and fairly straight shoulders. I usually need to add back shoulder darts or fiddle with the back so a garment lays right (modifying the back neckline to a slight scoop is a simple modification). 3. Long arms and long legs--I am not particularly tall, either (5'6"/ 167cm). Aaaand... 4. The top of my body sizes out larger than the bottom of my body; with the other adjustments I usually need to blend pattern sizes. I have slacked off sewing to understand how to draft patterns. I have a better understanding of how a commercial pattern fits my body. It is time to get back to making garments!
:O))) I'm a bit of the opposite... I have to shorten all bodices and have sloped, curved shoulders. Short arms and legs (jeah, I'm not that tall), got a big bust and broad hips. So no pattern fits but on the other end of the line. I learned to fit and to draft, it's doable!
Thank you so much for addressing this!! I have struggled with pattern sizing for a while. I have found that certain brands fit better than others, but still. I would love to learn more about fitting and grading and adjusting patterns. I have three girls 10,12, and 14 , and a husband that I sew for in addition to myself. We are definitely not all the same size. I will be signing up for your sewing school in December!
Hi Evelyn, this is perfect timing! I’m in the process right now of making two fleece jackets for my daughter and son-in-law. She wanted semi matching jackets for their up coming trip. The pattern is MCcalls 7409 c. 1994. It’s a unisex jacket (large only). So, the pattern fits him really good but, for my daughter I’m beating my head against the wall trying to grade down because she’s about 1/4 of this pattern. I’ve taken both of their measurements but, still can’t get her size remotely close. Uugh 😞
I'm very petite but barely have any waist definition (like a tube haha). So my bust and hips are tiny but my waist is always like 2-3 measurements above then. This makes it so hard choosing a size to go with. And often when I make the larger size, it's swimming on me. So annoying!
Hi Evelyn - thank you so much for these videos! I’ve learned so much about sewing through you. One video I would love to see you do is what do you do with your left over toiles/mock-ups! Thanks for all that you do!
I’d like to see a video on how to tackle fitting when your body measures one size difference between the bust and the hip. I take a size 10 (UK) on the bust and a 12 on the waist and hips. Add to that problem that I’m a petite with a very short bust to shoulder length and you can see the problems I have!
After lots of wasted time and fabric I have discovered use shoulder measurement first this solves the problem of neck and armhole fitting. With a shoulder of uk size 10 or 12 a bust of 43 and hips of 46 inches, all I do is add the additional inches to the side seams under the armhole. If I use a pattern to fit my bust there is too much fabric over my upper chest on the finished garment. Shoulder measurement does not vary very much no matter how your body changes over the years, the upper body is the hardest part to fit, matching shoulder or arm crease is the best start.
I would love to join! Just have too many things going on to commit. I heard cotton is going up 46%! Even if not true I don’t want to step foot in a fabric store. I have all the vintage material right here. Yes patterns never fit me. Now I know why. My daughter bought me a dress form and I also picked up on from Habitat for Humanity that adjusts. Thought this would help. I want to take all my clothes that didn’t fit and use the material to make my own designs altering patterns to fit. I was also given a lot of men’s brand new designer clothes and want to use that material as well. Your channel is so extremely helpful. Thank you.
My biggest gripe with the big pattern companies is their bust size pretty much only works if you're a b- cup. Now that I've learned to do a FBA I can actually get them to fit better!
I always love the advice I get from your videos. This is an issue I've been facing quite a bit, lately, and it had kind of turned me off of commercial patterns for a while - even though I don't yet have the drafting chops to compensate. But I also just wanted to say - that blouse is positively luminescent on you. I love the way those small stripes play with the eye. I end up processing it as a lighter shade but with a light and depth it wouldn't have had, otherwise. I'm used to that from certain Japanese komon fabrics, but I'd never seen it with stripes, before! I'm super inspired to figure this out! ^.^
Evelyn, could you please do a video on maternity/ nursing clothes. Having been pregnant 7 times this is always the hardest time to sew for. Either the pattern is immodest, plunging down at the neckline or way too fitted (I don't need to show ALL those curves!), or they are tents. It's so hard to feel beautiful when you look frumpy. Also postpartum when nursing, it would be nice to have sewing hacks like overlays on princess seams or tulip type tops out of patterns we already have. Here in the states the number of stores that actually offer maternity clothes (forget nursing clothes) has dwindled to near nothing. A simple nursing shirt can cost over 30 dollars and is usually made of cheap synthetic fabrics that pill and struggle with static and look worn because they are so thin. Help! There are still some of us who value children and families despite the trend for less or none at all. We need clothes too!
I just stared down a pattern for simple pajama pants for 2 days. When I get up from the computer i am going to pull out a seam and try again. My sewing skills have always been rather limited and I have the time now to improve. (though i come a family skilled sewers) I'm retired and would like to sew more clothes. I'm a plump, rather rounded very very very short Italian American.. so imagine a ball with head and legs? 😀
Did a burda men’s historical coat and measure me, picked by size. It made no sense as I cut and sewed it, shoulder were all wrong etc. I ended up cutting about 20cm off the pattern over each piece join and it finally fit me! I should have measured the pattern!
Thank you so much for this video, i am new in sewing and i looked a lot of you videos and my sewing and cutting patterns was great, but my dress was too big and i left it on side..... and now your video.. thank you to letting me that i am not the only one sewing a dress that is 2 size too big :)))))
I just finished a skirt that did not mention the finished measurements for the waist, only the length and width at the widest pattern (completely useless for a maxi skirt) I probably could have gone down a size or two the waist is so loose that the weight of the skirt is pulling it down. While making the skirt I removed 2in of elastic and I thought about leaving the waist open to fix it later. I guess I have learned something for next time.
I have to make the biggest size usually of any commercial pattern, so whenever I do the largest size of say a Knip Mode or Burda pattern, the shoulders and armscyes are huge and the rest just sort of hangs around my body. By now I just go by my high bust measurement, do an FBA and grade up at the hips before I do anything else. I can never really skip the toile stage though, unless it's a purposefully baggy design.
I'm just beginning but I knew about body measurements and ease from trying to find the right size crochet or knit pattern. Unfortunately for those and sewing, I'm just too big all over for most of these. Even the ones that go up to like size 24 are a few inches too short around and way too tall. Another thing I have trouble with is the concept of taking measurements from "a garment that fits you well." Except I don't have any of those because of the same issues: too fat and too short. Way too much info dumping that I probably should post somewhere else rather than your comment section: So far I've made a circle skirt and a pair of pajama bottoms (both used elastic and have length issues). I've made two mockups of bodice patterns but neither would even close, even the one made from my body measurements. I added two 3.5" panels down the back of the second one and it still couldn't be closed. I'm in the process of mockup #3 but I don't know how to search for help. The front and front side pieces are supposed to line up---but one side has a lot of extra fabric (for the bust) compared to the other and I don't know how to make them line up. The second bodice pattern even had gathering there but gathering as tight as possible in the designated spots wouldn't shorten the larger side enough to line up.
I don't have to get caught up on the numbers on most of those patterns. My size is almost never on them to begin with. All of mine have to be self-measured and self-drafted. I am still learning. I've made skirts and pants so far. I still haven't figured out tops with sleeves.
I totally did that when I first started sewing. I went to a department store and bought a pattern that had sizes that were smaller, because at the time I was a size 5 in pants and I thought that I would fit into a size 5 or a 6 on the pattern sizing. I was horrified when I was actually like, a size 10-12 or something like that. You know what would be so cool, is if you could go to a studio of some sort and get scanned in a body suit, and have a 3d printer make a mannequin that was your exact body size, but instead of it being made of hard plastic, it could be made of something that pins could stick into. So, then you could just drape the mannequin.
I don't know if ease is supposed to be the same in knitting as it is in sewing. Knitting patterns usually tell you whether the ease is positive (loose) or negative (tight, so the garment stretches). So I was having a head scratch over why a close-fitting dress pattern needed 4 inches of positive ease. I think I'm going to have to make a toile to see how it actually fits. Thankfully I have lots of second-hand bedsheets
One has to measure yourself and use your measurements to select your pattern. This is where your mock-up comes in. What comes next is above my pay grade
I have the most trouble fitting my bust as well as my shoulders and waist. I am pretty short, but very curvy and short waisted (8” difference between bust and waist). I always start with the size that will fit my bust that has the right amount of ease for the style, then I alter the waist, armholes and shoulders. I am very new to sewing and have no idea if this is the right method. Ideally I would like to learn how to adjust the pattern pieces to my measurements before cutting the fabric as my current method causes too much waste fabric for my liking.
Don't forget negative ease for things like corsets or other restrictive garments where the finished garment size is smaller than your body. So three types of ease. Just thought of it because I am working on a bodice with negative ease.
My pattern nightmare is fitting my back I'm short waisted. Back patterns are usually to big and to long around my waist in the back. I always looking for patterns that have separated upper part from the bottom part around waist for better fit. Any tips and idea to make back panels less floppy and fitting better ?
Join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/ so you can learn to master pattern fit, and make clothes that fit! 😀
I tried so hard to get my mother-in-law to understand that the size number doesn’t matter. You can look larger wearing too small size that shows bulges and bunching up and gaping between buttons while looking smaller in a large, but appropriate size. It’s about looking nice- not the number on a tag or pattern.
I know, for some of us, it's really hard to get over what the number says. But of course when you do, you can start making clothes that actually fit 😀 just as you say!
The silly part is that when we get beyond the numbers and sew something in our size, especially when we take the time to adjust a garment to fit us well, the result looks fantastic.
That is so, so true! I remember when I was a kid 30 yrs ago (30?!😁), I had gone to a skating rink. This lady there was skinny, truely skinny, but for some reason wearing clothes 2 sizes too small. I don't know about you, but I don't remember random strangers' clothes unless they are extraordinary. All other memories are beautiful outfits. And that lady. She's seered into my memory; red shirt, white pants, waaaay too tight. Just remember, folks, we do not know what number you are wearing. But we'll notice if it doesn't fit!
Disclaimer: She was dressed in nice clothes, so pretty sure she wasn't homeless. In fact, I think I was on base (grew up military). If this was a homeless person, I wouldn't criticize. But she looked like she had means, but made this terrible mistake anyway....
My aunt at one point wouldn't buy something if it was the wrong size number. She was set in her mind that she was a size and nothing but that size! She would look for items that fit big so they would look right and be the right size.
"Don't ever get caught up on what the numbers are" You can never say that enough. That alone nearly put me off of sewing. But it is just a number, and much like trying on clothes in a dressing room, nobody but you and the mirror will know your shame.-And when you sew the clothes, and fit them just right, no one will care what "size" it is -- it fits and looks wonderful.
My biggest struggle in fitting (once I got past the numbers,) was doing the actual pinning. My mother and sister could pin things on each other, pin stuff on themselves, no problem. I have watched both pin blouses and fitted skirts on themselves-, with no outside help- AMAZING! No weird bumps, no lumps, nothing is lopsided or crooked. This, of course, gives beginning sewists ALL KINDS of WRONG ideas, like Yeah, you pin it on yourself and you are good to go. NO! It literally took me until my very next paycheck to buy a dress dummy. My mother and sister don't like her, they say she's hard to work with, but I love her, and can't sew without her.
My first dummy finally died earlier this year after 20 years of faithful service, and I bought a larger one that I didn't have to pad up (funny how having kids and aging will change your shape!) But then, about a month ago, I put a skirt on her, and it was WAY TOO BIG! I put the skirt on me -- it was a little too tight. I measured me -- same as always. I measured Kim (that's her name) -- and found she'd gone on a diet! She was WAY smaller than her dials said she was set for! Turns out, all of the screws that hold the dials to the form were just loose enough to slip every time I put a heavy skirt on her. With a little bit of undignified effort, I got the screws back in their correct positions, got everything tightened back up, and Kim is back to being her useful, ample self.
I need a Kim! I make a lot of shorts and trousers though, I don't want to invest until I can make sure my future Kim has a butt and legs :(
If you want thorough explanations on fitting, altering and using patterns, join VSS as she goes into the deepest studying of the above and I guarantee that it will open your eyes to true using, fitting and altering patterns that you will ever be exposed to. Evelyn is a true pro!
Awww 🥰 thanks for the shout out Joy! With just a little guidance from VSS it has been wonderful to watch you skills grow so fast! Imagine what you'll be making in a year's time! 😀
Forgive me but what is VSS?
@@thesewingbratt966 Vintage Sewing School, which Evelyn runs!
@@thesewingbratt966
It stands for Vintage Sewing School :)
Thanks for sharing that information
There is so much work in getting a pattern to fit my busty, pear shaped body that I don't tend to buy many patterns. I always have to complete a fba, shuffle darts and bust point, blend between sizes and alter lengths and that is when the pattern comes from an indie designer I am familiar with... big 4 patterns are a step into the completely unknown. Once I have altered a pattern to suit what I want, I tend to remake it and remake it. It is absolute bliss to be able to just cut out a garment and sew it up. Granted I still check my measurements against those recorded at the time of altering the pattern... I hate sewing surprises.
Probably my biggest gripe about patterns is ease. Why do the major pattern companies think it's a good idea to put vital information on the pattern pieces when it should be on the envelope? Ease is so important it can effect the decision of which pattern to buy. Very often the finished measurements of actual garments do not match the photos on the envelope. This is because the garments made for the models were made by the designers well before the patterns were finalized by the pattern makers and sent for printing. If you take the pattern home, unfold it and find out it's not going to work for you you're probably out of luck because most stores don't accept pattern returns.
This is a good reason for using indie patterns. Most of these people design the garments and make the patterns themselves rather than handing it off to someone else. They had issues with ease when they learned to sew so they're usually more upfront about how much ease they use. The patterns cost more but it's usually worth it.
I definitely open up the pattern and look for that ease information before purchasing.
I agree, ease should be on the pattern!
Any recommendations for where to look for indie pattern makers or recommendations for specific makers?
@@theardentarcher I have only watched her videos, so far, but plan to buy from her in future. Some of it's not my style, but still cute. Rosery Apparel.
I agree whole-heartedly. Bravo for putting it so clearly!
Full bust adjustments coupled with a short torso! I want to run from the room screaming. Some patterns do include adjustments for fuller busts but only up to D cups which indicate they’re completely unaware/don’t care there’s a lot more do the alphabet beyond D. For example 38 G= me😳
My biggest struggle has been the arm scye. I thought for a while that maybe it felt like my sleeves were digging in because I just wasn’t used to woven fabrics. Nope! My shoulders rotate forward (poor posture, probably, but here I am), and I need a deeper, almost square-cut arm hole. Now I know.
I’m very short and the difference between my waist and hip measurements means they will always be different sizes. Honestly I find it easier sometimes to just draw up my own patterns. It’s just as much work as all of the alterations I have to do, and I have more control over the fit from the beginning
Me too. I use the master pattern kits from Sure Fit Designs and create my own patterns that fit me from the start instead of having to work adjustments and grading and hoping the changes in the waist height won't throw out something round the hips or the bust.
This is why I make more garments from the clothes I already have, rather than buying new patterns.
Modern patterns (and ready to wear clothes) don’t usually cater for people like me who are seated in a wheelchair all day, so making my own is vital.
I usually have to make the top of sleeves wider and the length of them shorter or they’re too tight and get filthy!
Billie.
This is great that you've been able to make your own clothes, that work for YOU! Is a nice feeling right! 🥰
nice if you are going from big to small but how much altering effectively can you do in the other direction and still look fashionable.
@@gigijohnson3211 - I don’t cut into my clothes to make new ones, I smooth them out on top of the new fabric, panel by panel, and draw around them, then cut them out adding a seam allowance and sew them together.
It’s like making clones, not re-fashioning items.
The original version lives on!
(...although I am making smaller clothes as I have lost lots of weight during lockdown! - my sister gained about the same amount of weight as I lost, so there has been some clothes swapping too!)
@@billiebluesheepie2907 My favourite clothing I've made was copied from garments I already had, I'd trace it out onto wrapping paper and keep the pattern and note any adjustments I'd make (usually I messed up the neckline as I figured out how to do facings), my biggest problem is because I keep starting with stuff that already fits, I have no idea how to take something that doesn't fit and make it work... and modifying things to be comfortably sat in is another thing, my maid of honour modified the princess dress pattern we used for the bridesmaids so that it was a two-piece for one of my bridesmaids who was also in a wheelchair. I wouldn't have known how to do it...
Thank you! When I was younger I used to make all my own clothes from commercial patterns and all was well. Then I had a long break and came back to it. I took my measurements, took a hit to my pride when the pattern said I was a size 18-20 (in bought clothes I’d gone from 12 - 14) then when I sewed the garment it absolutely swam on me! Like, at least 2 maybe 3 sizes too big! And that was supposed to be a fitted pattern! So much effort wasted, not to mention the cost of fabrics because sewing is not cheaper than buying readymade these days! Trying to downsize after the pattern has been cut (and sewn) has only limited success, especially with trousers. It’s so disheartening. I’m about to have another go (Vogue 1859) but am still very nervous. At least I know to look for finished measurements but they generally don’t provide the really necessary ones for fit.
I would love to see some pattern adjustments for plus sizes. It seems like larger patterns are just bigger versions of the smaller ones which doesn't really take essential differences into account. Like larger upper arms, bust, etc.
That was a great suggestion - use something in the closet similar to what one is sewing to get measurements. Will do! I love your videos.
I love how precise you are with language. Where you almost said "better" and said "more skilled" instead. Because you didn't want us to think we weren't good at all ❤
All your videos are so helpful! You literally talk about all the things everyone forgets to tell (beginner) sewists. I love that Evelyn!
Or our teachers neglected to teach - one pattern type fits all - except the patterns our Home Ec teacher chose was fine for small petite girls & the size range stopped at 14 - when there were several of us in the size 18 - 24's that didn't fit that pattern & she got upset with having to find another pattern that got the points she was supposed to teach us... Needless to say a lot of things didn't fit....
Thankyou 🥰 I know I'm on the right track when I receive lovely messages like yours! No one should quit sewing because it's too hard 😀
Thank you Evelyn. You explain things without complaining about them and that is very much appreciated. When I was a pre-teen learning to sew, each pattern had only one size. My mother told me to fit my bust because it was "easier' to grade patterns from there. I was thrilled when the Big 4 started to multi-size patterns because it provided more guidance for me. But again, as you have frequently explained, sewing patterns have always assumed the home sewist was already knowledgable about basic construction techniques and therefore only provided minimum instruction. My biggest (no pun intended) fitting issue is around my ribcage, which is now bigger than my waist and only slightly smaller than my bust, due to illness. So I, for one, appreciate wearing ease of 4 - 6 inches as long as the bust and shoulders fit. You really are a star!
Thanks for watching and your support Polly ❤
For me that video comes about 15 years too late :O)))) I learned it the hard way, a very hard way. And I stopped sewing for a long time, because back then I got why this doesn't work, but had no clue how to fit something for my a bit more demanding figure.
Years later I stumbled accross the old Craftsy and there I learned garment construction from scratch, there it clicked. And this a. helped me to get clothes for my and b. helped me understand what I have to do to alter something and how things work together.
These instructions where a hard learning curve for my English as well, because in German (yeah I'm German) there is nothing usefull around and sewing is a pretty dead art.
The only german pattern company is garbage in my mind and I - till today - stay away from their patterns.
Today I'm working with a mix of pattern sewing and drafting. Also I love the often helpfull little tips and tricks I learn from sites like yours :O)
Thanks, Evelyn! My biggest challenge when fitting patterns is my petite body, particularly my torso; petites don’t just hem sleeves and pants and call it a day! Right now I’m making my first coat 😬 and I’m trying to figure out how to shorten the armscye without completing screwing up the sleeve. I’m working on a muslin that I cut out of drop cloth canvas and I *think* I have it figured out by going down a size in that area. 🤞🏼 I’d definitely be interested in videos about petite-ifying patterns!
I hear you on behalf of my daughter who’s 4’11”! We’re making her first hand sewn garment which happens to also be a coat, brave or stupid? I dunno but I’ve been sewing garments for 37 years with a pretty big gap in the middle so we’re studying the alterations needed to fit a petite size and toiling with toileing, (A LOT!) but are taking our sweet time and we’re both learning (A LOT!) as we go, best of luck to you!
I'm 5 foot 1 and no patterns (and shop bought clothes) fit me right. It's sooooo frustrating! I always have to take patterns up at the l/s line so much. It's mental 🤣😭
Hi 👋 This subject has been a HUGE problem for me!! I'm obviously not the same size that I used to be. Now I'm struggling to find the right fit in pattern sizes because ALL of my garments are going to the TRASH!! Soooooo I am requesting that you keep these types of videos coming because I NEED this so much!! I can't fit myself AT ALL!! I NEED HELP !!
Standard patterns and off the rack clothing do not consider women with long back to waist length and apple shaped women. Could you address these problems. Thanks
You’re such a savior! I love how articulate you are thanks for the help!!
I have had the most trouble fitting my shoulders, upper back, and arms. I have a small bust, but my shoulders are broad and square, my biceps are on the bigger side, and my upper back tends to feel tight because of my broad shoulders. I have learned how to do both a broad shoulder adjustment and a square shoulder adjustment, but it’s tough to figure out when to do it when looking at a new pattern.
I think your right Nicole! You can learn the adjustment tutorial (what I call the science of pattern making) but the real hard part and skill is the knowing when, where and how much to do for the adjustment, this is the at of pattern making as I say!
Yes! I agree!
Back when padded shoulders were in style, I just left the pads out, and the shoulders and biceps fit great. I saved all my patterns from that era.
This is why I make toile’s. I would never cut into my fabric unless I knew the pattern fits as I want it to
Haha. Yes. Being German, I only ever used Burda patterns, until I got into pattern drafting and upcycling second hand clothes. They do not give you ease or the finished garment measurements.
I recently used an old shirt dress pattern I had still laying around, chose the size according to the measurements chart and the thing turned out big enough, to wear it as a coat. And it's a very tailored, form-fitting design with darts front and back and set in sleeves, so definitely not meant to be baggy or oversized.
Well. At least it's easy, to compare the pattern pieces to an existing garment, since they don't have seam allowance included already - which is what I should have done, of course. I had just 'repressed' the memory of that particular issue, apparently 😆
I went through all of those stages of pattern sizing! Learning to look at final garment measurements and ease helped substantially.
Yess
One of the first things I do is sift through a pattern for the ease. It makes me crazy when ease is not listed on the patter envelope.
I've been sewing since I was about 14 and have always been frustrated by the pattern sizing as compared to ready nude sizing. Thank you for explaining this difference.
Omg THANK YOU for this. EVERY Pattern I have ever used is gigantic in the bust and I have NEVER understood why!!!!! It has been maddening! I had gotten to the point where I actually though that somehow there was a problem with my body lol!! Life. Changing. 😸
My biggest problem is my changing body. For years I had a med. Bust a sm. waist and lg. Hips. Now that I'm older I have gained a few pounds and my bust is larger, waist larger and I now have a stomach, my hips are a little larger.
Ahh... yes. The joy of aging.
Just the video I needed! I had a pattern where the measurements suggested me a size that had me *very skeptical*. So I guesstimated off the bust measurement of the pattern pieces and subtracted some ease and seam allowance to see which was closer. So I sized it down. Except I was too careful I didn't size it down enough, so I'm going to have to alter it a bit more. Oops!
I’ve given up on the big four paper patterns and strictly use Indie pdf patterns for a perfect fit. Typically indie patterns provide so much more information regarding positive or negative ease. For myself I often grade to two or three sizes depending on the pattern. Being able to print the exact sizes I need is so much easier and they are color coded so I can actually see them clearly. There are a few companies out there that even draft Petite, Reg, and Tall files. What a game changer! You’ve done a wonderful job of explaining pattern information!
I have been sewing for patterns from the BURDA newspaper (popular in Europe) for over 30 years and I have had to constantly redo the patterns even though they are my size. For the last 10 years I have made a pattern for individual pieces of clothing according to my measurements, I am very satisfied because I can use my pattern's in different variants from classic to modern, it's easier 😊
Having someone who understands fit to describe the issue. Of course nowadays with a camera in everyone's pocket I should try again. My issue is as a man there is a limited range if patterns and I have wide shoulders and a tummy so that can get tricky when adjusting. Most of my sewing lately has been bags and other non garment items. But I also recently started looking for all the patterns available online so might give it a go again.
Robin I'm sure there's had to be someone fantastic here on TH-cam that specialises in men's fit, if not someone needs to!
You are the best instructor I've ever had the pleasure to experience. Thank you for the pleasure of your videos.
❤😭❤😭 Awww thankyou Debra, I'm thrilled to hear my videos help you so much!
Thank you!!!! I was almost given up sewing! I thought it was me!
Thankfully I saw this in my recommended BEFORE I started work 😂
I think my first project will just be making a pattern from a existing piece of my mom's (just copying the pieces and seam allowance, then piecing it together like her existing scrubs top) but definitely useful for once I get into actual patterns
This is gold even if you haven't yet sew anything from a pattern at all. It makes it easier to not be stuck whenever you want to fully start sewing.
I look forward to watching the other videos again....thank you
thank you for sharing this information, I have not made a dress in a long time and a friend has asked for my help making on for a party next year. She is a verylarge lady and although I have her measurements I never gave a thought to ease. The dress would have been a disaster.
The only problem with the bust, hip etc, (ease, )being printed on the actual pattern itself, you would either buy the pattern take it home to open it or attempt to open in the shop, which is not a good idea because you would have issues getting it back in the package. Btw great information, thank you
This was extremely helpful, thank you very much.
I made a lot of my own clothes from the time I learned to sew in the 7th grade. I stopped when I gained a lot of weight and got older. Things shift and I have to make adjustments to the patterns and I don’t feel confident in making those adjustments. It’s just too easy and cheaper to buy retail. I still sew for my home though. I guess I will have to check out your sewing school. I have multiple books etc on garment fitting but I get frustrated. I had it easy because I could buy a pattern, sew it up and it would fit. Thanks for inspiring me to give garment sewing a try again.
Thank you Evelyn for the info about pattern as I thought that's the right size. I am very glad that I come across your video.
Great video. They're always so good!
My biggest trouble in fitting is often my shoulders across because I am so broad and also the arms eye and upper sleeve because i got the muscles. Haha. But yeah the rest of me in smaller in comparison and i find those really hard to fit.
My biggest problem in adjusting patterns to my body shape?... well... I had a double mastectomy so flat-flat and even curved-in flat for the breast and a little bump🤔 (maybe a little bit more than a little bump) under named tummy 😳 so ... that is my problem and nowhere I can find patterns for women who are flat, be it because they are very small breast or had double mastectomy. I said to myself I will go toward adolescent patterns but even there, there is bigger forms for the tops... so what... going for child patterns for an adult body? I don't know what to do anymore.
I find that sad as when you have passed through the trauma of having your breast taken off, you feel kind of less "feminine" and having nice patterns or learn how to modify patterns to fit this new strange body would be sooooo helpful. What could be your suggestions, dear Evelyn? Love your videos, by the way 🌹
I really feel for you and wish I had an answer or even a suggestion other than making a small bust adjustment to take all of the excess fabric out if that’s what you’re going for? I will say that I hope you’re healthy and well. We all complain about the issues with pattern sizing but I’ve never even given a shape such as yours a moment’s thought and haven’t heard anyone else mention it either but I’ll definitely be mindful in the future, I truly hope that you find a way to enable you to sew the wardrobe of your dreams 😊
@@rhonddalesley Yes, I am OK... I was the lucky one. The surgeon took everything out and pathology said that there was no metastasis and no invasion so I didn't even need to have chemo or radiation... I was blessed in all that ugly procedure. And yes, I will find a way... just that it is a bit hard to figure it all as my problem is the tummy that makes me look pregnant as the breast is not there anymore 😊 ... Thank you for your concern and kind words 🌹
I too have had a double masectomy. I am now fine but if you decided on no implants and I tried but it just did not work for me. So I ask have you not looked into a masectomy bra and forms? If nothing else, it will make you feel like you have some feminity back. When we undertake the horrors of a masectomy we don't need to look in the mirror with our clothes on and feel less than because we no longer have our breasts. There is help available for us so why not take advantage of it? We have the constant reminder with our clothes off but when you can look in the mirror with clothes on it's no longer there for the time you are dressed. At least for me. I don't think you are going to find a pattern for flat/small breasted, larger waisted women without a little adjustment for yourself.
@@debcurtis5364 No, I don't have implants. I knitted myself some knockers and put them in a sport bra but, as I was not a big breast to begin with, I never wore bras and it really feel uncomfortable to wear those things 😊 Of course, if I really love a pattern that require a bust, I can always wear this for an evening out or special occasion but wearing them everyday? I am not sure. But I am sure I will find a way to adapt something for myself on a day-to-day basis... and who knows, maybe I could just design patterns for the ones who are searching like me? Thank you for your comment and suggestion. Hope you are well. Take care 🌹
Evelyn, I am so thankful to have found your site. I tried sewing my own clothes several years ago and gave up. I am now trying it again, so tired of over-paying and purchasing commercial clothes that are not me. Your videos are incredibly clear and answer my questions thoroughly. I finished attempt my top...which was toooooo big. This video helped me to understand why and I am determined to get it right with another attempt. You also solved my jamming thread issue on another video. thank you!
I've just started my first dress, and my first problem was - buying the wrong size pattern! Online only had the sizes (not the measurements), and when it arrived all the sizes that pattern had were way too small - I had to buy the next one up! I know they vary from the US/EU sizes, but the difference on this one was quite ridiculous - I've apparently gone up about 6 sizes :-D
I have done the same thing. I learned to grade patterns. Pattern grading (sizing a pattern up or down) is a good ( though time consuming) skill. 😁
@@user-mv9tt4st9k One I hope to try - but I think I need a few projects under my belt first :-D
Getting ready to cut my first pattern so this is helpful today. Thanks!
I really needed this. I’m a beginner with this and bought a pajama pattern last week. I was so frustrated trying figure out why the sizing was so off from what I thought it should be. Thanks!
Good afternoon my sewing friend I am so glad you make this video because I thought I was having understanding problems thank you so much for clearing that and my trouble is drafting a design and make it fits
You explained well, the 'roominess' or 'ease' in a finished garment, from the body measurements, but getting patterns to fit my personal needs has always been tricky. Might be helpful for me to have some lessons in making those adjustments. I'll look into your classes. Thanks for a helpful video.
The good news is, most of us only have 1-3 fit 'issues' we need to adjust for. So you only need to learn a few that apply to you, and just master the intricacies of those to just know what to do on any pattern! This is exactly what we do at Vintage Sewing School, if love to have you in class, if you have any questions just send an email to info@evelynwood.com.au 😀
When I was in sewing class many years ago, the teacher had us pin the pattern pieces together at the seam lines and try them on over a slip, to get an idea of the final fit. Our moms weren't going spend good money on muslin for mockups, and this was a thrifty alternative.
So far it’s that I can’t find any patterns in my size. The largest I see the ones at the store go up to are a size 22, which is my size, but even with the ease it’s much too small. I’m definitely going to have to add a lot to this pattern I got to make it fit
New sewer. Getting ready to start my first garment with my Mother's help. I just watched your video on understanding garment construction. There is so much wonderful information in that video. I am happy to see you are still making videos.
Thank you! I've found that patterns that have multiple sizes on one pattern often work well for me.
As a teen I wanted to sew a cute top. I carefully looked up my measurements on the pattern to find the size I needed. My mother saw the number and said oh no, you can't possibly take that size - and she recommended I make it two sizes smaller. I figured she must know what she was talking about, so I got the smaller pattern. I put so much work into it, excited to wear my own creation...and it turned out way too small! I was never able to wear it. I was gutted, and my self-esteem took quite a hit. I felt it was my fault that my body didn't fit the size number it was supposed to be. It might have been just as well, though, as I'd chosen a fabric the same color as the illustration on the pattern envelope - which looked great on the model with completely different coloring but would have been terrible on me.
I have been trying to sew garments for YEARS! I do nice curtains, etc. But garments are a whole different story. I had no idea just how much I didn't know till I found your videos. Thank you so much for all of them. I will be joining your school soon. I'm almost 70. Is it too late for me?
That’s why you should join VSS 😉.
She made a course that is SOO long and goes so in-depth that after you watch that, you can call yourself a master in pattern reading 😁
Wow, that is what I need. I get so confused with the directions given on sewing patterns and sometimes the pictures are not clear and hard to decipher. I have been thinking of joining VSS.
😍 Will it just makes my day to hear it has helped you so much! I'm thrilled to have at VSS, as we have even more great lessons coming!
@@Evelyn__Wood Using a pattern, I was trying to make pajamas one day and, the Pajamas' had a collar. The directions became unclear on the pattern as to how to attach the collar. I remember you said once that a pattern is a tool, it's not really intended to give clear directions, it assumes that you know how to sew. I guess I'm wondering if sewing school will allow me to learn how to sew clothing and help me to see the pattern as a tool. Because right now, as a new sewer, I feel so dependant on the directions that come in the pattern.
@@Evelyn__Wood You are rising up future success ful tailors and seamstresses 🥰🥰
I use to have this problem because my weight yoyo's so I learned from a few of your videos and a friend who sews for a living to measure my body, measure the pattern pieces and copy the pattern pieces on brown paper adding the ease I want.
I was never taught to take the average of my measurements. I was only taught small, medium and large. Lots of cutting and refitting. Ugh. Thank you Evelyn!
Thank you! Very informative. I'm learning to sew my own clothing by watching your videos first. (I've just had shoulder surgery and am in the healing stage)When I'm all done with the videos and the healing, I'm going to dive in. I have always loved the vintage clothing of the '30's - '60's and would love to buy and fix or make my own. Thank you for such great educational videos that, hopefully, will facilitate those dreams. 😘
Thank you, Evelyn. This video was refreshing and straight to the point. I love your series about sizing, ease and fitting. I kept wondering about the full-bust adjustments, as I often have to play with three different sizes to select with one would be the most suitable for me. :)
Thank you! Wonderfully helpful as always 🙂. I think the hardest for me is that I have a smaller bust but curvy hips. Luckily on lots of historical garments this isn't an issue given the loose fitting from the waist down but it's hard for me with dresses from the 40s which are my absolute favorite.
Right! Picking the right silhouette that just helps you make clothes that fit, just makes it so much easier! I think you're up for the 1940s challenge though! 😀
This is so helpful! I'm new to sewing. After making several pairs of PJ's I've just made two skirts with a fitted waistband, one for me and one for my daughter. Both are way too big! I took both of our measurements (ignoring my off the peg size) but it still went wrong. Now I feel like I have a starting point for trying again. On my pattern there is a finished garment size so I'll see if I can size down. Thanks again!
Great information. This video has saved me a lot of time and effort. Thank you.
I had this issue sizing a dress for my growing daughter. She was happy to wear it and one year later it finally fits 😂
The Bust. The Bust is my nemesis. I am a G cup and quite heavy so nothing is in the right place, LOL.
And small shoulders. Once I didn't have time to sew for a while so I got a dressmaker to do it for me. The finished garment looked like I was wearing a sack big enough for 3 people and the shoulders kept falling off - and this was after the second fitting. I don't know what happened and never went back again.
Boobs aren’t as fun as they sound! Especially not when you have to make garments for them. ☹️ 36H & hips just as curvy but I’m short, kinda like a compacted hourglass. They don’t make patterns for those curves.
@@chelseadawson7467 I totally relate.
My body, ha ha ha. Thank you for addressing my "pains"...
1. Long-waisted (17 1/2" or 44.45cm). All my patterns have to be lengthened at the waistline.
2. Broad and fairly straight shoulders. I usually need to add back shoulder darts or fiddle with the back so a garment lays right (modifying the back neckline to a slight scoop is a simple modification).
3. Long arms and long legs--I am not particularly tall, either (5'6"/ 167cm).
Aaaand...
4. The top of my body sizes out larger than the bottom of my body; with the other adjustments I usually need to blend pattern sizes.
I have slacked off sewing to understand how to draft patterns. I have a better understanding of how a commercial pattern fits my body. It is time to get back to making garments!
:O))) I'm a bit of the opposite... I have to shorten all bodices and have sloped, curved shoulders. Short arms and legs (jeah, I'm not that tall), got a big bust and broad hips. So no pattern fits but on the other end of the line.
I learned to fit and to draft, it's doable!
Thank you so much for addressing this!! I have struggled with pattern sizing for a while. I have found that certain brands fit better than others, but still. I would love to learn more about fitting and grading and adjusting patterns. I have three girls 10,12, and 14 , and a husband that I sew for in addition to myself. We are definitely not all the same size. I will be signing up for your sewing school in December!
Hi Evelyn, this is perfect timing! I’m in the process right now of making two fleece jackets for my daughter and son-in-law. She wanted semi matching jackets for their up coming trip. The pattern is MCcalls 7409 c. 1994. It’s a unisex jacket (large only). So, the pattern fits him really good but, for my daughter I’m beating my head against the wall trying to grade down because she’s about 1/4 of this pattern. I’ve taken both of their measurements but, still can’t get her size remotely close. Uugh 😞
Thank you so much for those crucial informations ❤ never though finding ease on the pattern itself 😮
I'm very petite but barely have any waist definition (like a tube haha). So my bust and hips are tiny but my waist is always like 2-3 measurements above then. This makes it so hard choosing a size to go with. And often when I make the larger size, it's swimming on me. So annoying!
Hi Evelyn - thank you so much for these videos! I’ve learned so much about sewing through you. One video I would love to see you do is what do you do with your left over toiles/mock-ups! Thanks for all that you do!
Liking the video to send my support to you Evelyn. Hope you are healing 🩷 and I watched the video lol .
I’d like to see a video on how to tackle fitting when your body measures one size difference between the bust and the hip. I take a size 10 (UK) on the bust and a 12 on the waist and hips. Add to that problem that I’m a petite with a very short bust to shoulder length and you can see the problems I have!
After lots of wasted time and fabric I have discovered use shoulder measurement first this solves the problem of neck and armhole fitting.
With a shoulder of uk size 10 or 12 a bust of 43 and hips of 46 inches, all I do is add the additional inches to the side seams under the armhole. If I use a pattern to fit my bust there is too much fabric over my upper chest on the finished garment.
Shoulder measurement does not vary very much no matter how your body changes over the years, the upper body is the hardest part to fit, matching shoulder or arm crease is the best start.
I would love to join! Just have too many things going on to commit. I heard cotton is going up 46%! Even if not true I don’t want to step foot in a fabric store. I have all the vintage material right here. Yes patterns never fit me. Now I know why. My daughter bought me a dress form and I also picked up on from Habitat for Humanity that adjusts. Thought this would help. I want to take all my clothes that didn’t fit and use the material to make my own designs altering patterns to fit. I was also given a lot of men’s brand new designer clothes and want to use that material as well. Your channel is so extremely helpful. Thank you.
My biggest gripe with the big pattern companies is their bust size pretty much only works if you're a b- cup. Now that I've learned to do a FBA I can actually get them to fit better!
That is my problem. Thank you.
I always love the advice I get from your videos. This is an issue I've been facing quite a bit, lately, and it had kind of turned me off of commercial patterns for a while - even though I don't yet have the drafting chops to compensate.
But I also just wanted to say - that blouse is positively luminescent on you. I love the way those small stripes play with the eye. I end up processing it as a lighter shade but with a light and depth it wouldn't have had, otherwise. I'm used to that from certain Japanese komon fabrics, but I'd never seen it with stripes, before! I'm super inspired to figure this out! ^.^
Evelyn, could you please do a video on maternity/ nursing clothes. Having been pregnant 7 times this is always the hardest time to sew for. Either the pattern is immodest, plunging down at the neckline or way too fitted (I don't need to show ALL those curves!), or they are tents. It's so hard to feel beautiful when you look frumpy. Also postpartum when nursing, it would be nice to have sewing hacks like overlays on princess seams or tulip type tops out of patterns we already have. Here in the states the number of stores that actually offer maternity clothes (forget nursing clothes) has dwindled to near nothing. A simple nursing shirt can cost over 30 dollars and is usually made of cheap synthetic fabrics that pill and struggle with static and look worn because they are so thin. Help! There are still some of us who value children and families despite the trend for less or none at all. We need clothes too!
Check out Love Notions pattern with maternity hacks on TH-cam. They have quite some.
I just stared down a pattern for simple pajama pants for 2 days. When I get up from the computer i am going to pull out a seam and try again. My sewing skills have always been rather limited and I have the time now to improve. (though i come a family skilled sewers) I'm retired and would like to sew more clothes. I'm a plump, rather rounded very very very short Italian American.. so imagine a ball with head and legs? 😀
This video was very helpful! Thank you for making it! Have a great day!
Hi Evelyn thank you thank you your awesome love all video
Did a burda men’s historical coat and measure me, picked by size. It made no sense as I cut and sewed it, shoulder were all wrong etc. I ended up cutting about 20cm off the pattern over each piece join and it finally fit me! I should have measured the pattern!
Such a great explanation! Thank you so much for sharing this information!
Thank you so much for this video, i am new in sewing and i looked a lot of you videos and my sewing and cutting patterns was great, but my dress was too big and i left it on side..... and now your video.. thank you to letting me that i am not the only one sewing a dress that is 2 size too big :)))))
I just finished a skirt that did not mention the finished measurements for the waist, only the length and width at the widest pattern (completely useless for a maxi skirt) I probably could have gone down a size or two the waist is so loose that the weight of the skirt is pulling it down. While making the skirt I removed 2in of elastic and I thought about leaving the waist open to fix it later. I guess I have learned something for next time.
I have to make the biggest size usually of any commercial pattern, so whenever I do the largest size of say a Knip Mode or Burda pattern, the shoulders and armscyes are huge and the rest just sort of hangs around my body.
By now I just go by my high bust measurement, do an FBA and grade up at the hips before I do anything else. I can never really skip the toile stage though, unless it's a purposefully baggy design.
I'm just beginning but I knew about body measurements and ease from trying to find the right size crochet or knit pattern. Unfortunately for those and sewing, I'm just too big all over for most of these. Even the ones that go up to like size 24 are a few inches too short around and way too tall. Another thing I have trouble with is the concept of taking measurements from "a garment that fits you well." Except I don't have any of those because of the same issues: too fat and too short.
Way too much info dumping that I probably should post somewhere else rather than your comment section:
So far I've made a circle skirt and a pair of pajama bottoms (both used elastic and have length issues). I've made two mockups of bodice patterns but neither would even close, even the one made from my body measurements. I added two 3.5" panels down the back of the second one and it still couldn't be closed. I'm in the process of mockup #3 but I don't know how to search for help. The front and front side pieces are supposed to line up---but one side has a lot of extra fabric (for the bust) compared to the other and I don't know how to make them line up. The second bodice pattern even had gathering there but gathering as tight as possible in the designated spots wouldn't shorten the larger side enough to line up.
I'm just starting out with my sewing journey and this video has been super helpful. I will be able to make lots of cute summer dresses soon :D
I don't have to get caught up on the numbers on most of those patterns. My size is almost never on them to begin with. All of mine have to be self-measured and self-drafted. I am still learning. I've made skirts and pants so far. I still haven't figured out tops with sleeves.
I totally did that when I first started sewing. I went to a department store and bought a pattern that had sizes that were smaller, because at the time I was a size 5 in pants and I thought that I would fit into a size 5 or a 6 on the pattern sizing. I was horrified when I was actually like, a size 10-12 or something like that. You know what would be so cool, is if you could go to a studio of some sort and get scanned in a body suit, and have a 3d printer make a mannequin that was your exact body size, but instead of it being made of hard plastic, it could be made of something that pins could stick into. So, then you could just drape the mannequin.
I don't know if ease is supposed to be the same in knitting as it is in sewing. Knitting patterns usually tell you whether the ease is positive (loose) or negative (tight, so the garment stretches). So I was having a head scratch over why a close-fitting dress pattern needed 4 inches of positive ease. I think I'm going to have to make a toile to see how it actually fits. Thankfully I have lots of second-hand bedsheets
One has to measure yourself and use your measurements to select your pattern. This is where your mock-up comes in. What comes next is above my pay grade
🤣🤣🤣 Gracie you'll get there!
good description of ease!
I have the most trouble fitting my bust as well as my shoulders and waist. I am pretty short, but very curvy and short waisted (8” difference between bust and waist). I always start with the size that will fit my bust that has the right amount of ease for the style, then I alter the waist, armholes and shoulders. I am very new to sewing and have no idea if this is the right method. Ideally I would like to learn how to adjust the pattern pieces to my measurements before cutting the fabric as my current method causes too much waste fabric for my liking.
That explains so much! Thanks!
Most paterns I would like to use are not in plus size... how to make them bigger? How to adjust them ? Love all your videos!❤
Don't forget negative ease for things like corsets or other restrictive garments where the finished garment size is smaller than your body. So three types of ease. Just thought of it because I am working on a bodice with negative ease.
My pattern nightmare is fitting my back I'm short waisted. Back patterns are usually to big and to long around my waist in the back. I always looking for patterns that have separated upper part from the bottom part around waist for better fit. Any tips and idea to make back panels less floppy and fitting better ?
The answer is usually always darts or panel seams, it's how we create shape in garments 😀
Sooooo helpful omg thank you!!!